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November 21, 2013, 1:20 am

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Check out the master Index of Posts to view a list of all the restaurants that I've visited. Or, see the Interactive Dining Map and The Best Thing I Ever Ate, a list of my favorites dishes of all time. Contact me via email at kevin at kevineats dot com.

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Corteza at Sendero (Los Angeles, CA)

November 11, 2023, 6:20 pm

≫ Next: 71Above (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Corteza at Sendero
900 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213-743-8824
www.senderola.com
Sat 11/11/2023, 06:20p-09:55p





My latest birthday dinner brought me to Sendero, a new multi-concept affair that opened on February 23rd at the Ritz-Carlton at LA Live. The restaurant is actually composed of four distinct areas. We were here for Corteza, a seafood-focused Latin-American spot. There's also Leña, an Argentinean-inspired steakhouse, as well as The Agave Library, a sort of chef's table serving a menu paired with agave spirits. Last up is Volante, a kitchen counter-style experience that hasn't opened yet. The man in charge of all this is Kevin Luzande, a familiar name, but one that I haven't heard in a while around these parts.

About the Chef: An LA native, Luzande was born in October 1983 to a Filipino-American household, and got interested in food in part due to his family's visits to the Philippines. Following high school graduation in 2001, he attended culinary school, and during this period, started working at the Ritz-Carlton in Marina del Rey. After completing his studies in 2003, he continued on at the hotel until 2006, then moved to Las Vegas the following year for a line cook position at David Burke Modern American Cuisine at The Venetian. He stayed there for a year, but left in March 2008 and came back to Southern California, where he secured an Exec Chef gig at The Kress in Hollywood. In March 2009, Luzande was hired by John Sedlar and transitioned over to Rivera, where he became CdC.

He then opened sister restaurant Playa in February 2011, but the place only lasted about two years, shuttering in March 2013. Shortly before the closure, the Chef took over the kitchen at Buddha's Belly in Santa Monica, but was only there a few months. He soon joined the team at Acabar, and opened the restaurant in July 2013 alongside Octavio Becerra. Acabar ended up folding in April 2015, and following, Luzande left the US and went down to Mexico to run the show (along with Oscar Torres) at Acre Restaurant in San José del Cabo. He decamped in 2018, did some traveling across Central and South America, then stepped away from cooking before being lured back last year by the folks behind Sendero.



Sendero takes over the former home WP24/Nest space on the 24th floor of the hotel, and the space has been reimagined by the team over at EDG Design. Shown above is the bar/lounge section of Corteza.


And here we see Corteza's dining area.


The Agave Library is basically a private dining room.


And this is Volante, a chef's counter type of setup that's yet to open.


Corteza's menu is decidedly pan-Latin American, but with a distinct seafood bent. Also shown here are the restaurant's selection of (rather pricey) cocktails, beers, and wines by the glass. Click for larger versions.


Freebies that hit the table included tlayuda chips, salsa macha, and escabeche-style pickles.


Arepas - Colombia [$20.00] | duck confit / chipotle black bean / cotija / preserved lemon crema
We'll start with the arepas, which were definitely a highlight. I was a big fan of their simultaneously soft yet crisp consistency, as well as how the salty, savory flavors of the duck meshed with the beans, all while that tangy crema completed the package. You'll probably want to get these.


Palo Santo [$26.00] | bookers unfiltered / carpano antica rosso / cynar amaro / bitters / palo santo smoke
Our first cocktail arrived with some tableside theatrics, and showed off a wonderfully sweet, fragrant, woody smoke commingled with aromas of dark fruits. On the palate, the drink was rich and viscous, its bittersweet qualities combining seamlessly with smoke and boozy heat.



Queso Gobernador - Mexico [$25.00] | oaxacan string cheese / shrimp / chintextle paste / tostada
Shrimp came out gratifyingly textured and deeply flavored, with a palpable brine, and worked great with the quesillo while the tostada served up a tempering crunch.


Tiradito - Peru [$24.00] | hokkaido scallops / aji amarillo / gooseberries / pineapple
In this near-monochromatic rendition of tiradito, sweet-n-saline cuts of scallop were paired with tart fruit and an even more piquant ají amarillo sauce.


Anticuchos - Bolivia [$28.00] | ribeye skewer / aji panca + garlic rub / potato confit / peanut huacatay salsa
Rib eye was a bit tougher than I'd like, but really delivered in the taste department thanks to its wonderfully heady amalgam of sour, spicy, and savory flavors. Hearty, subtly sweet potatoes made sense as an accompaniment, but my favorite thing here was that nutty, zingy huacatay salsa, which was a superb complement to the beef and which I sort of want on everything now.


Flor de la Gente [$26.00] | novo fogo cachaca / jamaica syrup / lemon / egg white
This scarlet-tinted cocktail blended floral, fruity, and citric nuances with a bitter edge and the fluffiness of egg white.


Charred Octopus - Costa Rica [$24.00] | pineapple / red fresno salsa / tri citrus
Octo came out chewier than I was hoping for, though the savoriness and salinity I wanted was there, and linked up with the bright, fruity flavors in the dish.


Aguachile Negro - Baja, Mexico [$24.00] | cardinal prawn / yuzu / avocado / nasturtium
Raw shrimp showed off a supple, snappy consistency, their cool, briny nature augmented by a smoky, earthy marinade while the avocado and nasturtium lightened the mood.


Birds of Paradise [$26.00] | diplomatico rum / plantation pineapple rum / st. germain / guava / lemon
This cocktail was a bit of a crowd-pleaser due to its commingling of tropical notes with a subtle, underlying bitterness that kept things in check.


Tuna Tostada - Ensenada, Mexico [$24.00] | sea urchin / avocado / salsa macha / pickled pearl onion
Ruby-hued cuts of tuna displayed a refined brine and umami that melded easily with the nutty heat of salsa macha, and I appreciated the contrast offered up by the creamy avocado and all the pickle-y bits. However, I wasn't sure if the uni really added all that much here.





Barbacoa - Mexico [$50.00] | short rib / nixtamal tortillas / glazed root vegetables / salsa molcajete
Corteza's take on barbacoa delivered with its satisfyingly tender texture and delectably dark-toned tastes. Though delish alone, the beef really sang when wrapped up in one of those floppy tortillas with some salsa verde, microgreens, and pickled red onion. I quite liked those homey root veggies on the side, too.


OG Crusher [$26.00] | don julio blanco / nixta corn licor / pineapple / tepache
This next cocktail demonstrated a cacao-like characteristics along with plenty of pineapple, all juxtaposed against some bitter, minty elements and that eggy foam.


Empanadas Tucumanas - Argentina [$19.00 × 2] | prime beef / boiled egg / castelvetrano olive / chimichurri / criolla
The empanadas were a must-try, and didn't disappoint. I reveled in the beef's mouthwatering spicing, and appreciated the texture of the pastry as well. Accoutrements, meanwhile, included a tangy salsa criolla and an agreeably oily, herby chimichurri.



7 Seas Cataplana - Central America [$85.00] | chorizo broth / littleneck clams / loup de mer / shrimp / octopus / serves 2
A seafood stew featured a rich, salty, almost bisque-liked broth infused with a smidge of heat. The liquid was pretty scrumptious, and did a nice job intensifying the various mariscos present, though I will say that the shrimp were on the overdone side. I had no complaints with that smoky, crusty bread on the side.


Aloe Frozeca [$26.00] | grey goose / chareau aloe / lemon / sparkling rose / campari sorbet
Our penultimate cocktail was super floral, but possessed a countering touch of astringency and some mintiness from the Chareau.


Empanadas Hongos - Argentina [$18.00 × 2] | hen of the woods mushroom / bell pepper / garlic / chimichurri / criolla
The mushroom empanadas were also winners, and I thoroughly enjoyed how their woodsiness married with the two condiments.




Aged Snapper Zarandeado - Nayarit, Mexico [$72.00] | chili paste / soy onion / salsa verde / nixtamal tortillas
Luzande's take on pescado zarandeado was another highlight. The snapper was properly juicy and a joy texturally, while its seasoning and spice were also spot-on. I took great pleasure in constructing my own tacos using the fish.


Flourish [$26.00] | casa migos reposado / aperol / orgeat / citrus
The evening's final cocktail combined fruity, spicy, and prickly flavors in an effective manner, though somehow, I managed to taste Lucky Charms marshmallows in the drink.


Calabaza Chocoflan - Mexico [$19.00] | chocolate sponge / pumpkin custard / cinnamon ganache / pepitas
It was now time for dessert, the responsibility of Pastry Chef Francois Behuet (Pendry WeHo, Bottega Louie). This first one was appropriate for the season, with its sweet spices and pumpkin flavors, accented by an almost mole-like nuttiness that worked for me.


Dia de los Muertos - Central America [$19.00] | cocoa crumble / pepita brittle / milk chocolate mousse / passionfruit
This Day of the Dead-inspired dessert brought loads of tropical passion fruit right up front, offset by some delightfully crunchy, chocolate-y, nutty bits.


Torta de Mil Hojas - Chile [$18.00] | puff pastry / pastry cream 'madame' / caramelized apples / toasted almond
Last up was the "thousand layers cake," with its pleasingly autumnal, apple-forward flavors, deftly accented by toasted almonds. What was most impressive, though, was the thin, delicate, shattery nature of the pastry. A table favorite, and a delicious conclusion to the meal

Kevin Luzande is someone that I feel I encountered fairly often back in the early 2010s, but after he left the Southland, I'd always wondered what happened to him. Thus, it's heartening to see him back in action. Despite a couple quibbles, we were generally pleased with the food tonight, which sort of reminded me of what the Chef was putting out back in the Playa days, but gutsier and more diverse. This place is a welcomed addition to the Downtown dining scene, and I wouldn't be surprised if I eventually return to give Leña a shot.

71Above (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

November 27, 2023, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Oyster Oyster (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Corteza at Sendero (Los Angeles, CA)

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71 Above Restaurant at US Bank Tower
633 W 5th St, Los Angeles, CA 90071
213-712-2683
www.71above.com
Mon 11/27/2023, 09:00p-11:35p





I last posted about 71Above in September 2016, shortly after it opened. I recently found myself back here, and figured that it's high time that I filed another dining report on the place. You might recall that the restaurant opened with Vartan Abgaryan leading the charge. However, he stepped down from his post in February 2019, and thus, the man running the show these days is Executive Chef Javier Lopez, who's actually a longtime associate of Abgaryan's.

About the Chef: Javi López got interested in cooking at an early age, often helping his mom make dinner at home. He ended up attending culinary school, and then apprenticed at the Jonathan Club. Following, he secured a position at Joe's in Venice, and later moved over to XIV, Michael Mina's build-your-own-tasting menu spot near West Hollywood. In July 2011, Lopez became sous at Alex Reznik's La Seine in Beverly Hills. It was during this time where he met Reznik's friend Vartan Abgaryan, who convinced Lopez to join him at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel in March 2012. However, Abgaryan soon decamped to take over the kitchen at Cliff's Edge, and again, Lopez followed at the start of 2014, becoming CdC there. The two both left the Silver Lake restaurant in the autumn of 2015 to start work on 71Above, which debuted in July the following year.


71Above's menu is a three-course prix fixe priced at $98 a head (plus 18% service), with the wine pairing tacking on an extra $56. In addition, you get the option of supplementing with extra courses if you desire. Also shown above is the cocktail/beer list, while the surprisingly impressive wine list (still curated by Catherine Morel) can be viewed here. Click for larger versions.


Amuse bouche duties were handled by this smoky, deeply savory mushroom dashi broth, which was perked up by the zippiness of charred scallion oil and chives. A cozy and heartwarming opener that was appropriate for the chilly weather we've been having.



Caviar Service [$81.00] | Kaluga, 28 Grams, Blini, Egg Yolk Jam, Chives
Kaluga caviar ate sticky and nutty, with a persistent, refined brine, and unsurprisingly, paired like clockwork with those fluffy potato blinis. You couldn't really go wrong with the chives or scallion emulsion, but my favorite accoutrement was that egg yolk jam, which had this sweetness that really complemented the roe.


1a: Chilled Asparagus | Citrus Sabayon, Lemon-Miso Vinaigrette, Pistachio Crumble, White Balsamic Gel
Bright, bitter slivers of asparagus were matched by a bevy of sweet, citrusy notes while the nutty bits of pistachio provided further interest.


1b: Yellowfin Crudo | Tomato Vinaigrette, White Soy, Cucumber, Citrus, Finger Lime
Yellowfin arrived with a surprisingly potent kick of umami, I'm assuming courtesy of the soy. Tart, juicy cherry tomatoes offered up some contrast, and I liked the herby accent from the dill, too.


To drink, I opted for the J-M Sélèque Extra Brut Soliste 1er Cru, Champagne, France 2014 [$188], a relatively uncommon bottling made from Pinot Meunier. The wine had a lovely nose filled with sweet, buttery brioche and peach--think bread with stone fruit preserves. Taking a sip, I found the sparkler superbly balanced and easy to drink, with a healthy dosing of orchard fruit joined by yeasty, toasty notes and just enough minerality. I enjoyed this quite a bit more than I was expecting to.


1c: Farm Salad [$29.00] | Lettuces, Market Vegetables, Seeds, Goat Cheese, Citrus Vinaigrette
The requisite salad came together nicely. I appreciated the interplay between all the nutty, bitter, and fruity flavors here, tied together by a kumquat-boosted vinaigrette. The juicy, semi-sweet, salted-roasted beets made pretty good sense, too, while just as important was the creamy chèvre, which imparted a certain heft to the dish. Nice crunch from that cracker, too.


1d: Grilled Octopus [$29.00] | Smoked Paprika, Morita Chili, Fingerling Potatoes, Celery, Lemon
The octo was a toucher chewier than I'd prefer, but was nonetheless still rather enjoyable. The pungency of that smoked paprika emulsion paired seamlessly, and I was a fan of those hearty potatoes as well. However, the tang of the pickled celery was a bit overpowering, so I could've used less of it on the plate.


2a: Ōra King Salmon | Fish Fumet, Tomatillo, Epazote, Lime, Avocado, Shelling Beans, Chochoyotes
Salmon sported a pleasingly rare cook (though I wouldn't have minded it even rarer), and was taken up a notch by the headiness of the fumet. The beans imparted a welcomed weightiness, while all that greenery served as a counterpoint to the fish.


2b: A5+ Japanese Wagyu – Filet Mignon, 6oz [$110.00] | Charred Gai Lan, Black Garlic, Peanut, Lime, Coriander Vinaigrette
A well-seared Wagyu tenderloin was luxurious without being overtly decadent. The bitterness of the kai-lan worked to offset the meat, and I didn't mind the peanuts, either. My concern here was with the black garlic, which was too intense by my reckoning.


3a: Spiced Carrot Granita | Cream Cheese, Raisin, Pineapple, Almond Streusel, Pecan Ice Cream
The creation of Pastry Chef Filiberto Flores (Yours Truly, Wolfdown, 71Above), our first dessert was essentially a reimagined carrot cake. It was a fun take on the classic, and I was particularly fond of the streusel.


3b: Chai Poached Pears | Pear Brandy, Walnut, Diplomat Cream, Palmier, Chocolate Chai Ice Cream
The sweet-n-spicy nature of chai tea was well conveyed in this dessert, especially thanks to the ice cream, and I liked the hits of nuttiness present, too. As for my favorite component, it'd have to be that delicate, flaky puff pastry.

I've always maintained that the food at 71Above is better than it needs to be for a "view" restaurant, and based on tonight's meal, that much still holds true under Lopez's leadership, a few gripes notwithstanding. This place is a pretty important Downtown dining spot by my estimation, and I'll probably make my way back here eventually.

Oyster Oyster (Washington, DC)

November 28, 2023, 6:50 pm

≫ Next: Trouble Bird (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: 71Above (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Oyster Oyster Restaurant
1440 8th St NW, Washington, DC 20001
www.oysteroysterdc.com
Tue 11/28/2023, 06:50p-09:10p





Oyster Oyster had been on my DC "to-eat" list for a couple years now, but the place had always been a tough reservation to snag given that it generally books up at least a month out. Fortunately, on my latest business trip to the District, I was able to land a ressie through a cancelation. Named after the mushroom and the bivalve, Oyster Oyster is a plant-focused eatery that serves a vegetarian menu that can be made vegan or, more interestingly, "oystertarian." Oysters are permitted given their sustainable role in the local ecosystem, and the fact that they apparently don't have brains and thus don't feel pain. The partners here are Chef Rob Rubba and Max Kuller, both of whom have been around the DC dining scene for quite a while.

About the Chef: Robert Hal Rubba Jr was born in April 1982, and grew up in Northfield in southern New Jersey. He got interested in food at an early age, but didn't seriously consider a culinary career until later on. In order to pay for his studio while attending college for fine arts in the early 2000s, he got a summer job working in the pastry department at Mohegan Sun, a hotel/casino in Uncasville, Connecticut where his uncle was a chef. He quickly fell in love with the craft, dropped out of art school, enrolled in culinary school, and dropped out of culinary school. He then switched over to the savory side of things and, in 2005, started working at Todd English's Tuscany, which was also conveniently located at Mohegan Sun. In 2006, Rubba moved to New York and joined the team at Gordon Ramsay at The London, but relocated to Las Vegas the following year.

He cooked at Restaurant/Bar Charlie, then transitioned to Guy Savoy, where he stayed until 2009. From there, he went to Chicago for a chef de partie gig at L2O, where he helped Laurent Gras achieve three Michelin stars. Rubba left in 2010 to become CdC at Chizakaya, an izakaya concept opened up by Harold Jurado, another Charlie Trotter alum. His post there was short-lived, though, and by 2011, the Chef was back in NYC, where he launched the pork-focused CrossBar for his old boss, Todd English. However, he soon decamped to open Mihoko's 21 Grams; the place debuted in April 2012, but Rubba was already out the door by July. He then went to Philadelphia and worked for a few months at the second iteration of Georges Perrier's iconic Le Bec-Fin, but shortly moved down to DC.

The Chef cooked for a moment at Frederik De Pue's Azur, which only lasted from April to September 2013. He linked up with Neighborhood Restaurant Group that November, and was brought on board as EC of Tallula, one of the company's properties in Arlington. Tallula, however, closed a year later, and Rubba was made interim chef at Columbia Firehouse in Alexandria. By that time, Rubba and NRG were already working on their next project together, Hazel, which debuted in June 2016 and achieved considerable acclaim. Even so, the Chef began having misgivings about the waste and negative impacts intrinsic to the restaurant industry, and thus, decided to become a vegetarian in late 2017 and focus his efforts on sustainability. He therefore resigned from his role at Hazel in June 2018, shortly after teaming with sommelier Max Kruller (of Estadio fame) and bartender Adam Bernbach (who left the partnership in January 2021) to open Oyster Oyster.

After holding a series of pop-ups, the trio signed a lease on a space in Shaw, and had planned to launch the restaurant in late March 2020. The pandemic, obviously, had different plans, and they were thus forced to retool, turning the space into a bagel bar, a pizza joint, and a takeout spot before instituting outdoor dining in spring 2021. Indoor dining followed in June that year, and by October, Oyster Oyster had secured the #1 spot on Tom Sietsema's 2021 Fall Dining Guide, while November saw recognition in Esquire's Best New Restaurants in America list. In March 2022, Oyster Oyster received both a "Best New Restaurant" nomination from James Beard and a Michelin star. Rubba landed a spot on Food & Wine's Best New Chefs list in September last year, while a James Beard "Outstanding Chef" win came just this June.


Oyster Oyster resides at the City Market at O mixed-use development. The roughly 1,000 square-foot space was designed by the team over at GrizForm Design Architects with sustainability in mind, and has a bit of a diner-style aesthetic. Capacity is reportedly 28. Do note that there was also a so-called "Oyster Garage" next door, which opened in July sporting pinball machines and serving a menu of oysters and pizza. However, it's since been shut down, and is being converted to a private dining room.


The restaurant also makes use of a kitchen counter, and pictured above is the view from my seat at the end.


Tonight's "Harvest" menu at the chef's counter was priced at a pre-paid $125 a head, plus $12.50 tax and $27.50 service; in comparison, a (slightly shorter) meal in the dining room costs $105. Optional wine pairings are available at $85/$70, while a non-alcoholic pairing is $55. In addition, we see the restaurant's beer/cider/wine list, which focuses on low-intervention and local producers. Do note that the menu is apparently printed on recycled paper that's embedded with marigold(?) seeds, and thus can actually be planted. Said menu also ended up being signed by the entire BOH team, which was a nice touch: Robert Rubba, Daniel "Danny" Bravato, Dana Laos, Vincent Ho, Evan Liwerant, Alex Fiszbein, and Salbador Gomez. Click for larger versions.


An oshibori-style warm hand towel was provided soon after I sat down, which was a welcomed nicety.


1: Welcoming Broth
I was then presented with a cup of warm broth, one showcasing the zestiness of young ginger up front before leading to the growing woodsiness of shiitake mushroom. This was deeply savory and heartwarming, yet somehow light at the same time, and served as a great welcome given the very chilly whether we'd been having in DC.


2: Kyoto Carrots | Smoked Tofu, Sauerkraut, Rye Flatbread
Here we had a decidedly untraditional taco of sorts, one that displayed the sweet, piquant nature of pastrami-roasted carrots and sauerkraut, set against a smoked tofu purée and the herbiness of dill. This was all contained in a supple, floppy rye-caraway seed flatbread "tortilla," making for a rather fun start. I will also note here that the plate utilized in this course was made from recycled wine bottles--just another part of the restaurant's efforts to reduce waste.


To drink, I went for a bottle of the Troddenvale, Special Edition #8, Rosé Crab Apple Cider, VA '21 [$65], made from an equal blend of Dolgo crab apples and White Winter Pearmain apples, pressed in 2021, fermented in neutral French oak, and aged sur lie for five months. The cider showed off a lovely nose filled with funk and florals, with a fruity backing. On the palate, I found this dry and earthy, but with juicy apple flavors adding enough sweetness to the mix. Very tasty overall, and a good match to the food.


3: Confit Badger Flame Beets | Sweet Potato XO, Perilla Capers, Kelp
My oyster course was a winner, with the brine of the bivalve really standing up to the sweetness of those beets. I appreciated the freshness imparted by the shiso as well, but my favorite component was that XO sauce, which conveyed both sweetness and a wonderfully nutty depth--it really brought the dish together.


4: Koji Marinated Kohlrabi | Foraged Mushrooms, Cauliflower, Chervil
This next dish was another highlight, and featured kohlrabi marinated overnight in koji, roasted for caramelization, then slow-poached in a broth made from kohlrabi scraps. The veggie was paired with puréed cauliflower as well as a medley of roasted mushrooms (lion's mane, blue oyster, black king trumpet, pioppini, chestnut). This all made for a super cozy, comforting course with a bevy of buttery, bitter, nutty, and savory flavors all working in harmony.


Discarded oyster shells are turned into candles, and I believe even the wax is made from used cooking oil.


5: Badger Flame Beet Bread | Marigold "Butter"
Along with the kohlrabi came the bread, which had this delightful crustiness to it, while its crumb was properly tender, with a subtle, earthy bitterness thanks to the use of juiced beet scraps for dough hydration. The butter was also commendable. Made from sunflower seeds and marigold flowers, it had a gratifyingly thick consistency, with a smoky, nutty, almost "cheesy" taste that I reveled in.


6: Potato | Truffle, Terra-Cotta, Vegetable Reduction
Celery root noodles were spot-on texturally, and were paired with a creamy, nearly cheesy "terra-cotta" made from pumpkin seeds. I was a big fan of the salt and crunch provided by the fried potato bits, while a rich, demi-glace-ish veggie reduction made from carrot/onion scraps (caramelized, then cooked down with red wine, garlic, and herbs) helped bind everything together. However, what struck me the most here was that North Carolina truffle, which had apparently been in work for 30 years. The shavings had this super pungent, almost lactic funk that I loved, which served as the perfect exclamation point to the dish.


7: Stuffed Cabbage | Koginut Squash, Cypress Rice, Sauce of Seeds
My final savory course was a two-parter. In the front was Savoy cabbage, stuffed with a sticky, super nutty, aromatic rice that I was pretty enamored with, along with braised greens. I also had a subtly sweet semicylinder of roasted squash, topped with a wonderfully nutty, chocolate-y, mole-like sauce based on sesame and pumpkin seeds. Meanwhile, garnishing both parts were matsutake mushrooms, which were as spicy and "wild" tasting as I was hoping for.


I requested a list of after-dinner beverages to pair with dessert below. Click for a larger version.


Since I was in the mood for something different, I choose the Orchid Cellars, "Archer", Mead, Middletown, MD, NV [$16], a honey-lemon wine fermented with cinnamon, clove, and juniper, then aged 18 months. The metheglin demonstrated a minty, fruity bouquet with an almost amaro-like character. Taste-wise, I got heady notes of cacao and bittersweet spices, all layered over a honeyed backbone.


8: Paw Paw Tart
I feel that pawpaw is an underutilized native ingredient, so I was happy to see it on the menu tonight. Combined with bitter lemon vinegar and crème anglaise, the fruit had this tropical, yet earthy quality that I really enjoyed, and which married easily with that crispy, flaky buckwheat shell.


9: Apple | Apple Cake, Hickory Nut Mousse, Buckwheat
My second dessert was very apropos for the season. I was impressed by its caramel-like richness and how the juiciness of Pink Lady apple was presented. Just as important was that nutty mousse made from foraged hickory nuts, while a drizzle of grassy fig leaf oil and a sprinkling of crispy candied buckwheat completed the package.


I was then provided a complimentary pour of the Loew Vineyards, "Apples & Honey", Cyser, Mt. Airy, MD, NV, made from a blend of apples and both wildflower and clover honey. The bouquet here was fresh and sweet, and actually reminded me of apple pie. Taste-wise, I found this generally easy-going, with tart fruit supported by an undercurrent of blue cheese-like earthiness.


10: Shiitake Chip Cookie
Last up was a whimsical bite that married your classic cookie flavors with some unexpectedly woodsy, nutty nuances.

Rubba and his team delivered a strong meal tonight, and I can see why so many people like this place. The cuisine was inventive and intentional, invigorating and imaginative, and I definitely got that sense of sustainability that's part of Oyster Oyster's mission. There's a real sense of confidence in the cooking, and not once did I miss the meat. This is vegetarian food that shouldn't leave the meat-eaters wanting.

Trouble Bird (Washington, DC)

November 29, 2023, 5:05 pm

≫ Next: Jua (New York, NY)

≪ Previous: Oyster Oyster (Washington, DC)

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Trouble Bird Bar
1346 4th St SE, Washington, DC 20003
www.troublebirddc.com
Wed 11/29/2023, 05:05p-07:35p





The last time I visited DC, I enjoyed a fantastic meal at Michael Rafidi's Albi in Navy Yard. Walking there, I had noticed a cocktail bar a couple doors down, also situated in the Guild apartment complex, and decided to give the place a try on this latest trip to the District. Opened on February 28th this year, Trouble Bird takes over the former home of Brent Kroll's Maxwell Park, a wine bar that shuttered in late 2022 (the original outpost in Shaw remains open). Following the closure, Kroll still had the space, so he partnered up with barmen Andrew Hurn and Justin Cara-Donna to launch a new concept here. The two both worked at Columbia Room, quickly became friends, and later bartended at Silver Lyan together (Hurn was also at The Green Zone in between) before leaving to launch Trouble Bird.


Inside, the same basic layout from the Maxwell Park days remains, though the decor has been redone to reflect a somewhat more whimsical aesthetic.


And here we see the menu. Inspired takes on tried-and-true cocktails are joined by a smattering of beer and wine, as well as a small selection of bar food. Click for larger versions.


Everything Bagel Sazerac [$16.00] | Pierre Ferrand 1840, Rittenhouse, Sesame-Aquavit, Chive Gomme, Poppy Seeds, Peychaud's, Umami
If we're talking about bagels, my propensity is generally for the "everything" variety, hence my first cocktail choice. It was a tasty rendition of a Sazerac, with the right herby, spicy, and boozy notes, though the bagel seasoning was subtler than I was expecting.


I was then allowed to taste some of the drink's ingredients individually, which were of course much more discernable.


Amaretto Sour [$16.00] | Don Julio Blanco, Double Almond, Salted Apple, Lemon, Absinthe, Egg White
Next came this smart, easy-going riff on the classic sour cocktail, a rich, fruity, creamy concoction that actually reminded me a bit of a Creamsicle.


Pimento Cheese [$11.00] | Cheddar, Chili Crisp, Piquillo Pepper, Kettle Chips
I couldn't resist the pimiento cheese, and it was a solid rendition of the Southern spread, with a nice hint of heat. An apt pairing with those salty potato chips.


Sawada Punch [$15.00] | Don Q Cristal, Espresso, Matcha, Vanilla-Miso, Cocoa Puff Whey
I was pretty fond of this punch as well, inspired by Sawada Coffee over in Chicago. Citric and nutty on the nose, the cocktail showed off plenty of aromatic coffee, commixed with caramel-like notes, a touch of earth, and a smidge of green tea.


Smoked Trout Dip [$13.00] | Cornichon, Mustard, Kettle Chips
The trout dip was calling my name, and didn't disappoint. I got a toothsome marriage of smoke and brine, offset by the tang of pickles and mustard, and again, the chips fit the bill nicely.


Morning Glory Colada [$17.00] | Toki Whisky, Banana, Sour Coconut H2O, Absinthe, Colada Foam
The decidedly tropical-leaning cocktail married banana and coconut in a seamless manner, accented by hints of absinthe, and I was quite the fan of that fluffy foam, too.


Chili Dog – Meats & Foods Halfsmoke [$12.00] | Mustard, Onion, Chili, Cheddar
Of the various hot dog options, I went with the chili version, and I think I made a good decision. Composed of beef and pork, the sausage itself had a great snap and a more-assertive-than-usual taste that took well to the chili, all while the onion provided a much-needed zestiness.


Flapjack O.F. [$15.00] | Wild Turkey 101, Banhez Mezcal, Brown Butter, Robust Maple, Buckwheat Bitters
Fittingly, my final cocktail was the heftiest of the bunch. This one smelled of citrus and caramel, and taking a sip, I got loads of rich brown butter and maple all over the place, offset by spice, bitters, and a healthy dosing of alcoholic heat.

Trouble Bird hit the spot, and was pretty much just what I was looking for, with drinks that were fun and creative, yet still recognizable, served in a semi-understated environment. This is a neighborhood-y sort of cocktail bar, but one that's interesting enough to make it a bit of a destination as well.

Jua (New York, NY)

November 30, 2023, 8:20 pm

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Jua Restaurant
36 E 22nd St, New York, NY 10010
646-590-1598
www.juanyc.com
Thu 11/30/2023, 08:20p-10:40p





If you've read my last couple posts, you'll know that I was recently in DC for business. After my work was done, I decided to take a side trip up to NYC to eat, since the city's only about an hour flight away. One of the spots that I was curious to try was Jua, a modern Korean restaurant with a wood-fired focus that opened back at the start of 2020. The place is the creation of Chef Hoyoung Kim, in partnership with HAND Hospitality, a company founded in 2011 that's probably best known for being one of the driving forces behind Atomix. A note on the name: when I first heard about Jua, I thought that it took its moniker from an odd romanization of joh-a (좋아), the Korean word for "good." However, it's actually joo-ah (주아), named in honor of the Chef's daughter Jua, who was in turn named after the French word "joie."

About the Chef: A native of South Korea, Kim Ho-young (김호영) was born in February 1986, and got interested in cooking early on, helping his mother prepare meals. His initial education in the craft comprised both a culinary arts-focused high school and college-level studies in cooking and restaurant management. Following completion of his mandatory military service, Kim was able to secure a line cook gig at Jungsik Yim's game-changing Jung Sik Dang (정식당) in Seoul in 2009. When Yim opened his second outpost of Jungsik in Manhattan in 2011, he brought him over to help run the place. However, after only a couple years, Kim was allowed to go to France to broaden his skillset at École Grégoire-Ferrandi, which was followed by time spent under Pascal Barbot at L'Astrance. Meanwhile, in December 2015, his wife Mihee Baek gave birth to Jua (son Siwoo arrived two years later).

Kim finished up at Astrance at the start of February 2016, and when he returned to the US a month later, he was made Executive Chef at Jungsik. In March 2018, he held a pop-up dinner at 29B Teahouse, which was followed by another in June at Atomix, and another in September at Hortus NYC. These dinners foreshadowed the Chef's departure from Jungsik in March 2019, which coincided with another pop-up (this one hwe-focused) at O:N. By July 2019, the buildout of Jua was already in progress, and the restaurant ended up debuting in late January 2020. In hindsight, that was a rather unfortunate time to commence operations, but the team was able to pivot to delivery/takeout/outdoor dining, and by May 2021, the place had secured a Michelin star, which has been retained. The success of Jua has since allowed Chef Kim to launch Moono, a more casual, more traditional Korean spot that opened at the end of March this year.



Jua resides in a narrow building in the Flatiron District, one that features the bar up front, the dining room in the middle, and the kitchen in the back, with the design coming courtesy of local firm Two Point Zero. It's a fairly rustic-industrial space, and was reportedly meant to evoke the image of a mountain cabin.


Here we see Jua's menu (signed by CdC Hyuna Lee, who comes from the Jungsik in Seoul), priced at a reasonable $135, with the optional wine pairing tacking on another $95. Also pictured is the restaurant's selection of cocktails, beers, sul, tea, and wines by the glass, all overseen by GM/Beverage Director Jaehoon No. The wine list--which veers French and young--can be viewed here. Corkage is $50 a bottle, limit two. Click for larger versions.


1: Caviar Kim
My meal began with a healthily-sized dollop of golden Ossetra caviar, set atop bluefin tartare, avocado, kimchi, and truffle rice, all encased in a wonderfully crispy seaweed wrapper. There was just such a gratifying interplay of flavors here: a nutty-toastiness up front, leading to the freshness of avocado and tuna, then to the saltiness of the caviar, then to the grassiness of the laver, and finally to the heat of kimchi and the gim's persistent savoriness. An unabashedly lux version of the bunsik staple that is gimbap, this was a fantastic start, one that really set the stage for the rest of the night.


Seoul Breeze [$20.00] | Pine Soju, Crème de Menthe, Sakura Vermouth
I opted for cocktails this evening, and this was neatest of the bunch. I found citrus and florals up front, but these notes were quickly overtaken by a potent, yet elegant pine-laced mintiness that lingered surprisingly long.


Supplement: Uni Kim [$32.00]
A second, perhaps even more decadent one-biter kimbap variation married wonderfully sweet, briny Maine sea urchin with the nuttiness of rice and what I believe was soy-braised burdock, all offset, once again, by that perfectly delicate, shattery seaweed, which just might be the best I've had. Although this might look like a your typical gunkan-maki, it was, in fact, much, much better.


2: Scallop
In this rather monochromatic course, Cape Cod scallop was served with burdock, bellflower roots, apple pear, and finger lime, then set in a smoked tofu-pine nut purée and capped with Japanese radishes. I loved how the sweet salinity of the scallops meshed with the creamy, nutty, and smoky character of the purée, while the pear and pricks of sourness from the citrus perked things up beautifully. A super clever mélange of flavors that I'd never tasted together before.


Pink Me! [$18.00] | Haku Vodka, Cointreau, Bokbunja, Honey, Egg White
I chose my second cocktail because I was curious as to how it'd incorporate the bokbunja ju. I found the drink honeyed and floral at first blush, supported by the sweet-tartness of the raspberries, all while that eggy foam softened the flavors at play.


3: Jook + Abalone [+$20.00]
Next came what must be the best jeonbok-juk I've ever had, one bolstered by smoked eel, foie gras emulsion, king trumpet mushrooms, spinach, kimchi, sesame seeds, and chives. The abalone was fantastic texturally, with a rustic-yet-refined presentation of gamchilmat that I reveled in. However, the actual porridge was even more impressive thanks to how harmoniously all the components coalesced. I was especially fond of the bitterness imparted by the spinach, the flashes of nutty sesame, hints of citrus, as well as the dish's peppery undertone. A super comforting, yet exciting rendition of a Korean staple.


4: Sam-Chi
A near-perfectly rectangular filet of Cape Cod Spanish mackerel was brined and charred, giving the fish a wonderful smoke and sophisticated brine, along with a pleasingly rare consistency. The brightness of a mustard-dressed green apple-chayote salad provided some crucial contrast, while a savory, zippy plum-soy dashi broth brought it all together.


Smoked & Spice [$20.00] | Mezcal, Tequila, Amaro Nonino, Chili
My third cocktail was much more restrained than I was expecting, given its description. Think light, fruity, citrusy nuances up front, leading to a creeping heat and smoke, accented by the herbal bittersweetness of the amaro.



5: Duck & Chan
Two-week dry-aged duck was excellent, its delectably deep, almost funky flavors perked up by a wonderfully crisp, salty skin. The ori was of course delicious alone, but was also accompanied by a selection of "banchan." Clock-wise from the bottom:

• The chimichurri was the only accompaniment that I was specifically directed to have with the duck, and its zestiness certainly paired well with the bird.
• Charred cucumber was light and bright, but with a smidge of smoke.
• A small portion of jeon showed off the vegetal crunch of cauliflower, and was tarted up by micro-celery and a sliver of pickled onion.
• Cherry tomato was joined by gochujang and watercress, making for a tart, zingy, minty bite.
• Soy-pickled shiitake ate supple and juicy, with a sweet-savoriness that was well-matched by the nuttiness of sesame seeds.
• A wrapper-less, familiar-tasting duck dumpling was crowned with pickled chayote.
• Crisp-fried lotus root had a sweet-and-sour sort of flavor profile, and was topped with scallion.
• Thin slices of mild pickled radish were layered atop a floppy buckwheat base.

6: Sujeonggwa
My first dessert was a thoroughly reimagined version of a traditional Korean cinnamon punch. I got all the sweet-n-spicy flavors I was looking for, but juxtaposed seamlessly with the juicy sweetness of both pear sorbet and diced pear.


Along with dessert, I enjoyed some Organic Sejak [$16]. The green tea was super grassy up front, with a bit of roast, while a fruitiness crept in later.



7: Goguma Juak
A sweet potato-enriched, glazed rice flour fritter had a delightful chew, along with an appropriately autumnal sweetness. The "doughnut" matched flawlessly with that brown butter ice cream, which boasted a polished sort of richness and a nearly semifreddo-like texture, along with some crispy bits thrown in for good measure.

The kitchen delivered a pretty stellar dinner tonight, with really no misses, and provided further evidence that New York City is undoubtedly the epicenter of contemporary Korean cuisine (outside of Korea proper). The cooking had that creativity and modernity I was looking for, but was still familiar, still approachable, while the food also set itself apart through the thoughtful use of that wood-fired grill. Jua is still a relative newcomer, but I envision big things for Kim and his team in the years to come.

Atera (New York, NY)

December 1, 2023, 5:00 pm

≫ Next: Double Chicken Please (New York, NY)

≪ Previous: Jua (New York, NY)

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Atera Restaurant
77 Worth St, New York, NY 10013
212-226-1444
www.ateranyc.com
Fri 12/01/2023, 05:00p-07:30p





The second dinner of my recent NYC side trip brought me to Atera, a place that I'd been curious to try for the better part of a decade. Named after a Basque word meaning "to go out," the restaurant was originally opened in March 2012 by Chef Matthew Lightner (ex-Castagna) and financial backer Jodi Richard. Two Michelin stars arrived just seven months after debut, but Lightner eventually departed in March 2015. He was quickly replaced by Ronny Emborg, who remains the head chef to this day.

About the Chef: A native of Denmark, Ronny V. Emborg was born in December 1982. He began his culinary training in 2000 at Molskroen, a beachside hotel-slash-restaurant in Ebeltoft. In 2004, he left for a position aboard the HDMY Dannebrog, the private yacht of Queen Margrethe II of Denmark, then moved over to Copenhagen's posh Hotel d'Angleterre the following year. During this period, he also participated in the Bocuse d'Or, helping Rasmus Kofoed secure a bronze medal in '05. In 2006, Emborg became a sous chef at Restaurant Prémisse, and took on a similar role at Geranium in 2007. However, shortly after the move, he relocated to Spain for a year, during which time he cooked at Hacienda Benazuza (El Bulli Hotel), Mugaritz, and elBulli proper. He then returned to Denmark and landed a sous position at Herman at the Nimb Hotel.

That post didn't last long though, and by June 2009, Emborg was Executive Chef at Restaurant AOC, which was the former Prémisse, but renamed due to an ownership split. It was here that he achieved his first Michelin star, in March 2010. The Chef ended up leaving to launch Marchal for his former employer Hotel D'Angleterre. The restaurant bowed in May 2013, and was awarded a Michelin star the following March. During this period, he also released his cookbook, entitled The Wizard's Cookbook. Despite this apparent success, Emborg would leave Denmark in March 2015 to become Exec Chef at Atera. He debuted his new menu in May that year, and has been able to retain the restaurant's two Michelin stars. In fact, the team has since launched Farra, a wine bar located just a couple doors down that opened back in March 2020.


Atera occupies the former Tribeca home of Compose (also owned by Richard), which opened in December 2010 and closed after only eight months following the departure of Chef Nick Curtin. The restaurant is pretty much just a 13-seater counter surrounding the kitchen, though there is a single high top table accommodating up to five guests, as well as a private dining room. Shown above is the view from my seat, smack dab in the middle of the counter. As we can see, the cooks here wear toques, an old school touch that you don't encounter too often these days.


Here's the night's menu, signed by Chef de Cuisine Erin Paterson, who apparently started out at Atera as a sous before working her way up to CdC. Pricing was a pre-paid $298 a person, plus $31.45 tax and a $5 Tock fee; note that service is not included. Wine/non-alcoholic pairings are an additional $198/$118, while the Old World-leaning wine list (presented to me tonight by sommelier Dan Lusardi) can be viewed here. Click for a larger version.


Upon being seated, I was quickly presented with a eucalyptus-scented warm towel, which was much appreciated.


1: King Crab | Apple, Caviar
In my first, amuse-bouche-like course, the sweetness of both king crab and Honeycrisp apple played off the salinity of Ossetra caviar, while a celeriac cream mediated the interaction.


To drink, the late-disgorged 1999 Raventós i Blanc, Enoteca Personal, Conca Del Riu Anoia [$360] was an easy pick for me given the bottle's rarity (only 405 produced) and its below-retail pricing. I first tried the wine at cellar temperature, and found a bouquet filled with oxidized, nutty, honeyed, and smoky notes; the palate was similarly mature, and boasted a distinct earthiness to boot, while bubbles were fine and dissipated quickly. My second pour brought boatloads of white truffles on the nose, while-taste wise, the sparkler was noticeably sweeter and nuttier, but with a bitter edge. Pour #3 still had all those truffle aromas, but now with a nutty backing and drizzles of honey, and taking a sip, I found things quite a bit softer, rounder, and fruitier. I then requested that the bottle be chilled, which resulted in an amplification of the bubbly's oxidative, honeyed fragrances at the expense of the truffle, while the palate displayed more nuttiness, but with a markedly sweet backbone. It was a pleasure to witness the evolution of this wine over the course of the night.


2: Æbleskiver | Comte, Truffle
The aebleskiver was a favorite thanks to its delightfully soft, fluffy interior and gratifying cheesiness, accented by pinpricks of sour lime, while the burgundy truffle imparted a smoky weight to the bite. I could've easily popped a few more of these.


3: Kaluga Caviar | Custard, Bonito
My next course incorporated both bonito broth and smoked olive oil, and was also a highlight thanks to its perfect marriage of saline and smoke, all tempered by a cream custard. Delish.


4: Trout Roe | Nori, Foie Gras
Though this might look your typical ikura gunkanmaki, it was quite a bit different, and quite a bit better than most. I was a particular fan of the rice here, which was firm in texture, and showed off this toastiness and nuttiness that meshed beautifully with the smoky, briny nature of the trout roe, all while the crispy nori added even more umami to the mix.


5: Hamachi | Avocado, Squash
Fatty, briny shards of Japanese yellowtail were juxtaposed against the sweet-and-sour qualities of butternut squash, Cara Cara, Cape gooseberry, and a citrus ponzu, with a layer of avocado moderating it all. However, I could've used more acidity, salt, or savor to make thing a bit punchier.


6: Scallop | Lobster, Truffle
A well-caramelized Maine diver scallop and super sweet Maine lobster came together flawlessly, bound together by an ultra-concentrated lobster bisque, while disks of black truffle imparted further headiness. Another favorite for sure.


7: Ravioli | Ricotta, Oxtail, Mushroom
This deceptively simple-looking course managed to be a crowd pleaser. The star of the show was a saffron-mushroom raviolo, with its commingling of woodsy, earthy, spicy-sweet, and grassy nuances at the fore, set against the weighty, dark-toned flavors of an oxtail ragù. At the same time, the ricotta foam helped tie it all together, and I appreciated the spinach as well, which lightened the mood.


8: Wagyu | Zucchini, Kombu, Harissa
A5 striploin from Miyazaki was as luxurious as I was expecting, but what really set this apart was the use of harissa, which contributed this piquant heat that balanced out the fatty, smoky richness of the beef perfectly. Meanwhile, ribbons of zucchini and a zucchini purée worked to brighten things up.


9: Squab | Salsify, Carrot, Pear
California squab showed off a superb depth and elegance, and paired like clockwork with a sliver of brioche (it's a combo I'd like to see more often). I was a fan of the coziness of the winter veggies as well, while carrot purée and a savory sabayon provided further dimension to the dish.


To go along with dessert, I ordered a glass of the 1982 D'Oliveiras, Boal Vintage, Madeira, Portugal [$64], which was actually just bottled last year. The wine smelled of juicy, woody raisins, sour fruit, and oxidation. Tasting the Bual, I found a soft palate brimming with more dark-n-dusty fruit, nuts, and a zippy acidity, all accented by touches of herb and mint.


10: Grapefruit | Raspberry, Dulce
The combination of a grapefruit-buttermilk sorbet, crème fraîche, warm raspberry sauce, and dulce de leche resulted in a spot-on interplay of lactic and tart-fruity flavors, with some great crunchy bits thrown in for good measure. Seemingly straightforward, yet surprisingly satisfying.


11: Pistachio | Milk, Caramel
Coming out a vibrant shade of green, this was one of the best pistachio desserts I'd ever had. I loved the super familiar, super tasty nutty-sweet flavors happening here, joined by elements of chocolate and caramel. Excellent crunch from those bits of puffed rice, too.


12: Marshmallow | Passionfruit
13: Mascarpone | Black Sesame
14: Lemon | Chocolate
A trio of mignardises closed out the night:

• I began with the canelé-shaped marshmallow, with its passion fruit and coconut flavors, countered by a dark chocolate base.
• Next up was a crunchy, surprisingly decadent miniature cone filed with coconut ganache and mascarpone.
• Lastly, we had a nutty chocolate bonbon that melded together caramel and an unexpectedly tropical lemon curd.

Walking into Atera, I had expected the food to be somewhere along the lines of New Nordic, given Emborg's background and training. However, what I found was cuisine that veered unapologetically contemporary American, with no qualms about weaving in international influences, Japanese in particular. The end result was ingredient-centric cooking with a global edge, on one hand spare and delicate, on the other lux and full-bodied, all undergirded by the Chef's Danish sensibilities.

Double Chicken Please (New York, NY)

December 1, 2023, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Jungsik (New York, NY)

≪ Previous: Atera (New York, NY)

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Double Chicken Please Bar
115 Allen St, New York, NY 10002
646-678-5452
www.doublechickenplease.com
Fri 12/01/2023, 08:30p-11:30p





Following my meal at Atera, I ventured over to the Lower East Side to check out Double Chicken Please, a new-ish cocktail bar that's been getting a lot of buzz lately. The place opened back in November 2020, and is the creation of Gn Chan (a.k.a. Chia-an Chan) and Faye Chen, in partnership with Huey Cheng's Cloud 9 Hospitality Group, the company behind the likes of Kura, Raku, and Pâtisserie Fouet.

About the Bartenders: The story begins with Chan Chia-an, a native of Tainan, Taiwan who got into bartending by accident. He had majored in industrial design at Chang Gung University, and actually started his own firm, but lost it all due to some bad business dealings. Interestingly, he subsequently became a street magician, which led to him meeting a flair bartender, which led to a job at a bar, which led him to discover that he really loved bartending. It was also during this period that he would meet his future business partner, Faye Chen.

Chen hails from Taoyuan, Taiwan, and began her hospitality career at the age of 19 as a waitress at a local bar. After witnessing a flair bartending performance, she became interested in the skill and began taking classes. She eventually made her way to the same flair-focused bar as Chan, but he would leave for New York City in 2011 in order to better his understanding of mixology. He held various jobs in NYC before being hired at the iconic Angel's Share in 2012, where he worked under the renowned Shingo Gokan, first starting as a host before moving his way up the ladder to bartender over the course of a year. It was during his tenure at the East Village establishment where he won the 2016 Bacardi Legacy Global cocktail competition.

Gokan himself, meanwhile, relocated to Shanghai to launch a new bar called Speak Low, and through Chan's relationship with him, Chen also moved to China in 2014 to help with the opening. Speak Low dropped in June 2014 and rapidly made a name for itself, as did Chen when she won the Bacardi Legacy China competition in 2015.

Chan wound up leaving Angel's Share in 2017 to start his own venture, and convinced Chen to join him in NYC. He purchased a Volkswagen Type 2 Westfalia camper van, and the two drove around the country holding cocktail pop-ups, though Chan also started bartending at Greenwich Village's Mace in November 2018. After a couple years of planning, the pair finally debuted Double Chicken Please on November 13th, 2020 with limited pandemic-era service. The full bar, with the back room and all, finally opened in July 2021, and DCP quickly began garnering accolades. In June 2022, it landed on the North America's 50 Best Bars list at #17, and just four months later, it was rated #6 on the World's 50 Best Bars ranking. May 2023 saw DCP secure the #1 spot on the North American list, and in October, it was voted #2 in the World--a pretty meteoric rise to say the least.

And if you're wondering about why this place is called Double Chicken Please, Chan and a friend of his back in Taiwan both have "chicken"-based nicknames. The two of them were initially planning on opening up a design studio called Double Chicken Please following college graduation, but when that business never materialized, the moniker was repurposed for this bar.


I arrived at the bar a bit past 8:00 PM, got in line, and was approached to put my name on the waitlist for The Coop (the fancier back room) 15 minutes later. I then remained in line until I was let into the Front Room around 8:30 PM. As you can see above, it's a fairly small space, and largely standing-only. Cocktails here are on tap, and are ordered via the numbers posted on the wall. Note that DCP takes over the former home of Hill & Dale, which was Mary Queen of Scots and Allen & Delancey prior.


#4 - Shochu, Lemongrass, Gentian, Plum Green Tea [$15.00]
I ordered my first cocktail due to its somewhat unusual base spirit of shochu, and found it fizzy and refreshing, its subdued sweetness joined by grassy, nutty notes and accents of lemongrass.


Popcorn Chicken + Thai Basil Aioli Sauce [$12.00 + $4.00] | Ginger, White Pepper, Five Spice
The popcorn chicken was absolutely calling my name, and the bird came out well-textured and pretty juicy, with a subtle heat supported by an underlying layer of spicy-sweetness. I also tried one of the optional sauces, and found a bit too restrained for my liking, as I really wanted the basil to be more assertive.


#2 - Tequila, Cocchi Americano, Bergamot, Grapefruit [$15.00]
My second cocktail also delivered thanks to its mélange of tropical, fragrant, and grassy flavors, perked up by the bittersweetness of grapefruit.


At 9:10 PM, I received a text notification to check in with the hostess for The Coop, though I wasn't permitted to enter until 25 minutes later. It's a much darker, clubbier, wood-paneled space befitting the more serious drinks being served.


This was the view from my seat at the left corner of the bar. See here for the menu, which includes food created by DCP's Executive Chef Mark Chou (Eleven Madison Park, Le Bernardin, O Ya, Blue Hill).


Japanese Cold Noodle [$20.00] | Bacardi Superior, Pineapple, Cucumber, Coconut, Lime, Sesame Oil
The cocktails here are culinarily-inspired, and this first one really did capture the essence of the familiar noodle dish. I got a nose filled with bright cucumber, but with a decidedly savory twang, while taste-wise, the warm, nutty nature of the sesame oil was at the fore, countered by more cucumber and plenty of tropical fruit.


Waldorf Salad [$19.00] | Dewar's 15yr, Laphroaig 10yr, Apple, Celery, Ginger Ale, Walnut Bitters
The next cocktail combined the requisite fruity, nutty flavors of the classic salad with a peppery spice and the unmistakable peatiness of that Islay whisky.


Koji Cucumbers [$9.00] | Shio Kombu, Sesame, Thai Chili
Cucumber showed off a welcoming crunch, while flavors went in a tangy, nutty, spicy direction.


Red Eye Gravy [$20.00] | Teeling Irish Whiskey, Coffee Butter, Corn, Walnut, Wild Mushroom, Microwaved Coppa
The American Southern staple of red-eye gravy was the inspiration behind my next cocktail. I quite liked its sugary, caramel-laced notes, contrasted against the distinctly earthy qualities of the mushrooms, while the coffee peeked through just enough. Big fan of that salty pork garnish, too.


Butter Raisin Biscuit [$20.00] | Chateau Montifaud Vieux Pineau, Black Raisin, Brown Butter
I wanted to end with something a bit more dessert-y, hence my final cocktail. The drink really did a great job conveying the richness of brown butter, which combined seamlessly with the sweet-tart raisins, all while the Pineau des Charentes provided that necessary boozy weight.


Le Big Mac [$11.00] | Macaron, Choco Ice Cream, Yuzu, Mochi (in collaboration with Pâtisserie Fouet)
A sort of faux burger made for a fun finish to my experience, and strangely enough, I swear I tasted something hamburger-esque in there.

I'm certainly glad that I made the effort (and braved the wait and the rain) to check out Double Chicken Please. The whole idea of doing food-inspired cocktails made for some really creative, delicious drinks, and I appreciated the duality of having the more casual Front Room available. The bartenders were quite friendly as well, and if I lived in the area, I could see DCP being one of my go-to spots.

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Jungsik (New York, NY)

December 2, 2023, 5:00 pm

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Jungsik Restaurant
2 Harrison St, New York, NY 10013
212-219-0900
www.jungsik.com
Sat 12/02/2023, 05:00p-07:15p





For the final dinner of my recent side trip to NYC, I returned to Tribeca to dine at a restaurant that I'd been wanting to try for the better part of a decade. Jungsik was opened back in 2011 by Chef Jungsik Yim, and is essentially the birthplace of modern Korean cuisine (in the US). It's a genre of cooking that has since grown to be quite influential at the higher echelons of the American dining scene, so I definitely wanted to experience the O.G. for myself.

About the Chef: Yim Jung-sik (임정식) was born in January 1978, and grew up in Suwon. He wasn't particularly interested in cooking as a youngster, but was forced to learn after he started his mandatory military service at age 19. After he got out of the army, he wanted to pursue a career in hospitality, and thus sought out jobs in Seoul, first at a bar, then a rice cake shop, and then a bakery. In 2003, Yim relocated to New York in order to study at the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, where he educated himself in Western cuisine and actually met many of his future employees. Following graduation in 2005, he trained at Aquavit and Bouley in New York, then ate his way around Europe and returned to South Korea. He then went to Spain in 2007, where he apprenticed at both Zuberoa and Akelarre.

Back in Seoul, he was now ready to open his own restaurant, and thus debuted Jung Sik Dang (정식당) in January 2009, located at 567-28 Sinsa-dong in Gangnam. Curiously, the name was meant to be a pun, combing jeongsik (meaning a full-course meal, and the Chef's first name) with sikdang (meaning restaurant). The place generated a fair amount of buzz for its "New Korean" cooking, and in spring 2010, Yim moved Jungsik Dang to a new location at 649-7 Sinsa-dong, near Dosan Park. The original location was converted to a casual eatery called Anzu, which has since shuttered and is now home to an outpost of bunsik specialist School Food. Not long after, the Chef signed a lease on a space in New York City, and the second Jungsik ended up debuting on September 12th, 2011.

Business wasn't particularly brisk at first, but did steadily improve, especially after the place was awarded a Michelin star in October 2012 (the first Korean restaurant to achieve the feat). A second star arrived the following October (another first), and has been retained ever since. In 2014, the Seoul restaurant moved to its current location in Cheongdam-dong, while an attached wine bar called Jungsik Bar launched in 2015. November 2016 saw the restaurant attain a Michelin star in the inaugural Seoul guide, while a second came just a year later, and has also been maintained.

In January 2018, Yim opened Pyunghwaok (평화옥, or "Peace House") at Incheon International Airport. Serving a menu of casual Korean staples, the restaurant expanded to the Hyundai Department Store (World Trade Center) in May 2018, as well as a multi-concept food space called Regular Six in June 2019. However, the mini chain shuttered in April 2020 due to financial malfeasance. In April 2019, Jungsik Bar was turned into an easy-going all-day spot called Jungsik Cafe (정식카페). Yim's latest venture is I Pho U (아이뽀유), a Vietnamese concept that opened in August 2020 inside Hotel Anteroom Seoul.

Unsurprisingly, Yim doesn't spend most of his time here in New York, so the day-to-day is run by Executive Chef Daeik Kim (김대익), a native of Gangwon Province who started cooking for himself at an early age, as both his parents worked. He was also taught by his mother, and went on to attend culinary school in Korea. He subsequently moved to Australia to broaden his skillset, then came to New York to study at the Culinary Institute of America. After graduating in 2018, he joined the team at Jungsik as a sous, and worked his way up the ranks, eventually being promoted to EC in September 2021, replacing Suyoung Park.


Jungsik takes over the former home of David Waltuck's longstanding Chanterelle, which closed in 2009. Shown above is the dining room, an elegant, relatively subdued space that can accommodate up to 32 guests. There's also a bar area, as well as a private dining room that can seat an additional 18.


Jungsik's Signature Menu was priced at a pre-paid $295, plus $26.18 tax and a $5 Tock fee, while standard/premium/non-alcoholic pairings were offered at $200/$500/$115. The restaurant's cocktail list and selection of wines by the glass, sul, beer, tea, spirits and sundry other beverages can be viewed here, while Cameron Dellinger's full wine list is provided here. Click for larger versions.


A meal at Jungsik begins with an array of banchan, reimagined as amuse-bouches.


1a: Jet-Bang-Uh | Doenjang, Celtuce, Gamtae Tuile
I began with the jaetbang-eo, or amberjack, which was paired with dueling forces of earthy soybean paste and juicy Granny Smith apple, while a delicate seaweed powder-enriched tuile offered up a well-placed crunch.


1b: Yukwe | Wagyu Beef Tartare, Truffle, Brioche
This take on a classic tartare was pretty spot-on, the beef arriving full-flavored, gratifyingly-textured, and paired with complementary flavors of cheese and truffle. At the same time, the bread moderated all the elements at play, and provided a nice toasty finish to the bite.


Bussanhaeng [$22.00] | Montreuil Calvados, Absinthe, Pinot Noir Juice
I opted for cocktails tonight, which are the creation of Head Bartender Romeo Lacandola. I began with this Train to Busan-inspired concoction due to its use of calvados, and quite liked its zippy, multifaceted fruitiness, backed by a pronounced herbaceousness from the absinthe.


1c: Gyeranjjim | Soft Steamed Egg, Gamtae Seaweed
The steamed egg ate as supple and luscious as I was hoping for, and I loved the addition of that grassy, oceany seaweed, too--it's something that more restaurants should utilize in their gyeran-jjim.


1d: Joomukbap | Squid Ink Rice, Squid and Shrimp, Gochujang
A truffle-looking jumeokbap was another winner. I was a big fan of the texture on both the rice and seafood here, and the bite's nutty, spicy-sweetness worked for me as well.


1e: Tuna Tomato Tartlet | Tuna Belly and Loin, Meisil Tomatoes
Spanish bluefin showed off a growing savoriness, one offset by the fresh, fruity nature of maesil-marinated tomatoes, tomato gelée, and lime zest, while the tart's pastry base offered up further contrast.


2: Langoustine 랑구스틴 | Oscietre Caviar, Dongchimi Emulsion
In my first proper course, binchotan-grilled Norweigian langoustine was superb texturally, and displayed a sweetness that linked up easily with the saltiness of the Ossetra. However, what really set this apart was that sauce, a creamy emulsion made from dongchimi broth and smoked butter, spiked with zingy anise oil.


3: Octopus 문어 | Gochujang Aioli
In this thoroughly reimagined take on nakji-bokkeum, Spanish octopus was braised in dashi, resulting in a perfectly tender consistency and just the right amount of sweet salinity, while just as important was that crispy crust, which was super savory and oh-so satisfying. The mun-eo was delicious alone, but I also took a liking to the funky heat imparted by that gochujang condiment. This is often considered Jungsik's signature dish, and I can absolutely see why. It's actually a contender for the best octopus I've ever had.


Bori Martini [$26.00] | Jung One, Damsol Pine, Lillet, Sesame, Bori
My next cocktail was a martini variation that really showcased the unmistakable nutty savor of sesame, juxtaposed against the freshness of pine and the roastiness of barley.




4: Wagyu Gomtang Mandoo 곰탕와규만두 | A5 Miyazaki Wagyu, Gomtang Broth
Wagyu mandu were excellent, tasting classic and comforting, with a superb veggie component. The dumplings paired like clockwork with the broth (made from boiling beef bones/feet/brisket for 24 hours), which was simultaneously heady yet light, with a great peppery edge. If that wasn't enough, a silky slice of A5 Miyazaki tenderloin was draped on top of the dish, amping up the deliciousness factor even further. Luxurious yet uncompromisingly cozy, this was another highlight for me.


Supplement: Sea Urchin Bibimbap 성게비빔밥 [$75.00] | Seaweed Rice, Kimchi, Crispy Quinoa
Given my penchant for both sea urchin and bibimbap, this was a must-try for me, and did not disappoint. Sourced from Hokkaido, the seong-ge had that creamy, sweet, saline character that I wanted, and married effortlessly with the nuttiness and savoriness of quinoa, sesame, and roasted gim-boosted rice. This has been a signature Jungsik dish since pretty much the very beginning, and for good reason, but now I'm left wondering: would the dish be even better if done dolsot style, in order to get some nurungji action going?


5: Arctic Char 북극 곤들매기 | Cured and Dry-Aged, Perilla Emulsion
Arctic char was cured with ginger, citrus, and herbs, then dry-aged, then grilled over binchotan, resulting in a properly rare cook and a delightfully crisp, salty, smoky skin. The fish was then accompanied by a piquant, herby emulsion incorporating perilla, kimchi, fermented tomato, and smoked trout roe.


Supplement: Black Cod 은대구 [$45.00] | Doenjang, Shishito Relish, Clam Foam
Alaskan eundaegu was marinated overnight in fermented soybean paste, cooked to caramelized perfection, then served with a shishito jangajji and clam foam. I'm pretty sure that this was the best black cod I've ever had. I loved its super luscious, flaky consistency and buttery goodness, while the doenjang contributed a wonderfully sweet earthiness. Furthermore, the clam imparted a refined saline edge to the fish, while the pickled peppers gave things a prickly heat that served as a great accent piece.



6: Yellowtail Kimbap 방어김밥 | Truffle Rice, Seaweed Bugak
Fatty slices of bang-eo arrived dressed in a particularly nutty soy sauce and garnished with green shiso. The fish was delish alone, but really sang when eaten with the roll, which featured beautifully seasoned truffle rice and zesty kimchi wrapped in some wondrously crispy, grassy seaweed. It was pretty much a match made in heaven. Yum.


Perthimmon Saz [$22.00] | New Riff Balboa Rye, Persimmon, Apricot, Absinthe, Red Shiso
My final cocktail was this rejiggered Sazerac, with its lovely fruitiness right up front, effectively countered by a bevy of bitter, herby nuances.



7: Galbi 갈비 | Wagyu Shortrib, Naengmyun
Four-day-marinated galbi ate supple and fatty, with a familiar sweetness that, fortunately, didn't overwhelm the meat, though I would've liked a bit more smoke and sear, especially since the cut was finished over a binchotan grill. The beef was served with a bowl of mul naengmyeon, and I thoroughly enjoyed the nutty, chewy nature of the noodles, as well as that super refreshing, beef-boosted broth, with its touches of funk and heat.


8: Strawberry 딸기 | Oat Yuja Granita, Tasmanian Pepperberry
Desserts are the charge of Eunchong Kim, another alumna of the original Jungsik who started here in 2022. In my first dessert, a Harry's Berries strawberry sorbet was combined with frozen raspberries and almonds, then topped with an oat-yuzu granita, a drizzle of olive oil, and a sprinkling of Tasmanian pepperberries. Flavors were delectably jammy and tart, as well as simultaneously nutty, with overarching notes of refreshing citrus and just a tinge of pepperiness.



9: Carrot 당근 | Cream Cheese Mousse, Black Tea Ice Cream
In this rather playful dessert, I was asked to "harvest" a "carrot" composed of carrot cake, pecan praline, and cream cheese mousse, all encased in painted white chocolate. It really had that carrot-y sweetness and nuttiness I was looking for, and melded seamlessly with that chocolate-y black tea ice cream. Superb.


Supplement: NY-Seoul 뉴욕서울 [$15.00] | Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream, Pecan Cone, Hyeonmi Cream, Pecan Praline
This was a pecan cone filled with pecan praline and brown rice cream, layered with caramel, then topped with Tahitian vanilla ice cream. It was yet another winner, with the ice cream coalescing outstandingly with the familiar, nutty sweetness of both the cone and praline, all while the hyeonmi imparted a roasty twang.


To go along with my sweets, I requested some Wild Persimmon 감잎차 [$18] tea, which actually didn't convey as much persimmon as I was expecting, but instead demonstrated this surprising shrimp-like brine.


10: Hodugwaja 호두과자 | Walnut Cake, Red Bean Paste
I was a fan of the hodu-gwaja as well. The pairing of walnut cake with the familiar sweetness of patso and pastry cream was marvelous. I wouldn't have minded popping a few more of these.


My meal concluded with just about the most petite petits fours I'd ever seen. I started on the right with the miniature yakgwa, a nutty, gritty bite with both a slight bitterness and a touch of honey. In the middle was a tiny macaron flavored with mugwort (ssuk), which actually had a pistachio-like sweetness to it. Last up was a tart, citrusy, herbaceous geumgyul jeonggwa made from candied kumquat and what I believe was lemongrass.

If one is looking to invent the category of contemporary Korean cuisine, then cooking like I experienced tonight is an obvious, effective, and delicious way to start. The food here veers more "Western" than I'd initially anticipated, but that never got in the way of my enjoyment, and indeed, somehow made the Korean influences even more exciting and vibrant. Meanwhile, service, coordinated by GM Kevin Goyenechea, was top-notch, really befitting the refinement of the cooking. My dinner actually exceeded expectations, and it'll be interesting to contrast it with other modern Korean meals, as the trend now is to lean less on the tropes of traditional Eurocentric fine dining like Jungsik does.

Mírate (Los Angeles, CA)

December 9, 2023, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Yangban (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Jungsik (New York, NY)

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Mirate Restaurant
1712 N Vermont Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90027
323-649-7937
www.mirate.la
Sat 12/09/2023, 08:00p-11:20p




The last time I caught up with Chef Joshua Gil was over three years ago, not too long after he and Matthew Egan debuted Mírame in Beverly Hills. The Alta California cuisine spot was generally well received, and eventually spawned a more casual sister eatery called Mírate ("look at you"), which grand-opened on November 18th last year and immediately went in my spreadsheet of restaurants to try. Now unfortunately, Mírame ended up shuttering at the start of July, though there is another location in the works up in Menlo Park.



Mírate is housed in a building in Los Feliz (near its border with East Hollywood) that once held the combo of Vermont Restaurant/Rockwell, VT/Show at Barre, which was later merged into Rockwell Table & Stage. That business was then split again, with the front portion becoming Botanique, then BlackRose, and now Hi Tops, while the rear is now home to Mírate. In any case, what we see here is the upstairs bar, right beyond the host stand.



Pictured above is the upstairs dining area, which, according to the restaurant itself, is "Tulum-inspired," but with "boho vibes." The design comes to us courtesy of Adean Studios, a San Francisco-based firm that also penned Mirame.



Finally, we see the downstairs dining area and bar. It's a pretty sizeable restaurant overall, spanning roughly 7,000 square-feet and accommodating nearly 200 guests.


The menu leans modern Mexican, of course, but reads a bit more casually than that of Mírame. We also get a selection of theme-appropriate cocktails by Max Reis (Republique, Gracias Madre), as well as an array of Mexican wines and beers. Click for larger versions.



I imagine that Mírate must have one of the most impressive agave spirits lists in town, and it's pretty neat that they also carry quite a few non-agave Mexican distillates as well. Click for larger versions.



Crab Esquites [$13.00]
The sweetness of corn and the sweetness of crab joined forces in our first course, supported by an underlying element of umami.


El Taquero [$20.00] | pineapple, lacto chorizo, lemon, chamomile honey, mirate x mal bien espadin
The menu described this cocktail as a spicy margarita. I'd say that it was less spicy and more overtly smoky-savory, but smoothed out by a healthy dosing of fruit and honey.


Callo de Hacha Tostada [$16.00] | scallops, sofrito, black lime, peanut salsa
Scallops arrived gratifyingly-textured, and showed off a cool brine that linked up with the wonderfully nutty heat of that salsa, while all the herbs lightened things up.


Kampachi Aguachile Tatemado [$24.00] | habanero, black lime, tomatillo
Meaty cuts of amberjack were joined by a bevy of bitter, herbaceous, citrusy, and creamy notes, yet the fish never got overwhelmed. This was more complex than I expected, and that's a good thing in my book.


Mi Compa [$20.00] | grapefruit soda de la casa, guanábana, tromba blanco, salt
This rather clear cocktail was a riff on a paloma, and displayed the assertive, yet approachable character of agave in a fizzy, fruity package that was nearly Sprite-like at times.


Coctel de Mariscos [$22.00] | shrimp, scallops, tomato, cucumbers
This seafood cocktail delivered with its fresh, lively flavors, supported by plenty of bright herbs and veggies.


Mushroom Taco [$10.00] | spicy oyster mushroom, ground esquites, sesame salsa, flour tortilla
In our first taco, woodsy oyster 'shrooms melded easily with a nutty salsa, the interaction supported by sweet spices and zippy microgreens.


La Sonadora [$20.00] | passionfruit, almond, green tea, nativo gin, goat milk, lemon, absinthe
I can't resist ordering a clarified milk punch when I see one on a cocktail list, and tonight was no exception to that rule. The drink was silky on the palate, while taste-wise, I got a strong anise-y kick up front, leading to herbaceous, bitter nuances and a distinct "cheesiness" courtesy of that goat's milk. Pretty cool.


Grilled Fish Taco [$10.00] | grilled rock cod, wasabi crema, jicama slaw, flour tortilla
Rock cod came out properly flaky, with a nice smoke and sear, and certainly made sense with its bright, fruity accompaniments.


Yucca Sucias [$15.00] | cheesy chorizo yucca fries
Yuca fries were great texturally thanks to their crisp outsides and fluffy interiors, and meshed well with the dish's cheesy, subtly spicy elements.


El Amargado [$20.00] | legendario domingo cupreata, distilado con mango & loquat, cucumber infused mexican red bitter, vermouth
This next cocktail was viscous and palate-coating, with a strong mintiness commingled with fruity components and a long-lasting bitterness. A smart take on a negroni.


Whole Fried Snapper [$69.00] | jus, avocado pico, fermented chintextle salsa
A whole fried fish was no doubt visually impressive, but also met the mark with its moist, tender consistency and spot-on seasoning. I was a big fan of that chintextle, with its concentrated, familiar, dried shrimp-boosted savoriness and spice that was actually vaguely Asian-y. At the same time, the herbs and tomatillo salad helped lighten the mood.


Grilled Cabbage [$15.00] | sumac crema, chicatanas, chiltepin, cotija, pickled onions & fresnos, chapulines
Next came the most contemplative dish of the night. I was smitten by the cabbage's bitter, charred qualities and creeping heat, as well as its crunch, but the most intriguing thing here was the smoky piquancy imparted by the duo of ants and grasshoppers.


El Yaki [$20.00] | papaya, bacanora, xtabentun, lime
This sour-inspired cocktail demonstrated a smoky, honeyed sweetness, tempered by the egg white and a bevy of bitter, herby accents.


La Quesadilla [$19.00] | corn tortilla filled with huitlacoche, quesillo, spicy guacasalsa
I was particularly interested in trying the quesadilla due to its use of huitlacoche. And indeed, the corn smut delivered its signature mushroom-like earthiness, marrying seamlessly with the lusciousness of Oaxacan cheese while the salsa imparted a prickly heat.


Cotija Basque Cheesecake [$16.00] | jamaica, persimmon, puffed cocoa soil
Basque cheesecake has been all the rage over the past couple years, but tonight's version wasn't quite what I was looking for. It veered overly tart, overly fruity, and I really wanted to taste more smoke, though I did appreciate all those nutty bits.


El Tocayo [$22.00] | el tesoro x Mirate reposado, mal bien x Mirate espadin, house mole bitters, nogave, sal de chapulin
What we had here was an effective variation on a Oaxacan old fashioned. The cocktail was uncommonly thick, in a good way, with smoke and bitterness at the fore, overarched by a great mole-fueled spiciness that was key.


Churro Donas [$11.00] | miso dulce de leche
Churro donuts had a nearly beignet-like texture, which I quite enjoyed, and were paired with a rich, caramel-y sauce that boasted a surprising depth thanks to its incorporation of miso.


Mezcal Flan Brulee [$13.00] | nixtamalized papaya, cacao crunch
A reimagined crème brûlée had that hard, caramelized sugar top that I was looking for, but wasn't as creamy as I'd hoped. I did appreciate all those nutty bits though, as well as the dessert's herbaceous nuances.



Mi Vieja [$20.00] | lalo tequila, paranubes, dry vermouth, campechana water, epazote
The evening's final cocktail was a pretty clever martini variation. I was a fan of the drink's generally savory, pickle-y, vegetal nature, but at the same time, it was actually quite soft and easy-drinking.


Cookies & Milk [$13.00] | mocha mole spiced cookies, vanilla ice cream, miso cajeta
Last up was a Pizookie-esque dessert that offered up a delectable combo of ice cream and spicy-sweet cookies in a straightforwardly satisfying manner. I just wished that the cookies were served warmer.

I have to say that my experience at Mírate exceeded expectations, as both the food and the cocktails were more interesting than I'd anticipated, yet still familiar and accessible, so hats off to the team. Now this does make me wonder: will we ever see Mírame again? I'm not holding out hope, but in the meantime, Gil just opened two concepts over at Level 8 at Moxy DTLA back at the end of August. The first is a teppanyaki spot called Maison Kasai, while the second is an open-air raw bar/Champagne bar by the name of Mother of Pearl. Maybe I'll give those a try coming up.

Yangban (Los Angeles, CA)

December 13, 2023, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Bello Chef's Table (Newport Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: Mírate (Los Angeles, CA)

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Yangban Restaurant
712 S Santa Fe Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213-866-1987
www.yangbanla.com
Wed 12/13/2023, 09:00p-11:15p





As you probably already know, Yangban Society debuted at the start of 2022 as a sort of Korean-American deli-slash-restaurant-slash-superette from the wife-and-husband team of Katianna Hong and John Hong. The concept was a new one for LA, and I think that people had somewhat of a hard time understanding it, and thus, the Arts District eatery has been in a near-constant state of adaptation ever since its opening.

The first major change came on March 24th last year, when the Chefs launched a "Yangban-style" prix fixe dinner option at $50 a head. Then, on July 8th, the restaurant rolled out a new menu and began focusing on dinner service. Those adjustments proved effective, and Yangban Society was soon deemed both one of "The 10 Best New Restaurants of 2022" by Bon Appétit, and one of Esquire's "Best New Restaurants in America" (the Hongs were also named "Chefs of the Year" by the publication). Meanwhile, at the start of 2023, James Beard rated the spot a "Best New Restaurant" semifinalist.

By Coachella this year, Yangban Society had updated its name to merely Yangban, and I believe that it was also around this time when the deli counter was removed. Finally, to complete the metamorphosis, the partners closed the restaurant on August 1st for a remodel, and reopened Yangban 2.0 on September 15th with a completely new decor and a revamped menu. The NY Times quickly judged Yangban among "The 25 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles," while the LA Times placed Yangban at the #18 spot on their annual "101 Best Restaurants in LA" ranking (up from #49 in 2022).



Inside, Yangban was re-envisioned by local firm Outsider Interior Design, which, conveniently, is located less than 200 feet away from the restaurant. As you can see, it's a much darker, moodier, more serious space now, featuring pieces from artists such as Brian Zamora/Tomas Osinski (Seoraksan metal mesh panels), Sammy Seung-min Lee (A Very Proper Table Setting rendered in hanji paper), Jisun Kim (Blooming series lamps), and Dave Young Kim (The Elements as Equalizer painted on the upper-level walls).


And here we see Yangban's new menu, which is more upscale, and more obviously Korean in many cases, though some old favorites still remain. Naturally, the cocktail list and wine list have been tweaked accordingly as well. Click for larger versions.


Hot Smoked Trout Schmear [$8.00] | griddled potato bread, dill, chive, fresh horseradish
The meal kicked off with a series of snacks, the first being this reworked version of a dish from the deli days. The marriage of that smoky fish with a three-way of dill/chive/horseradish was on point, and I liked how that thick, hearty bread grounded the bite.


Blue Crab Tostada [$9.00] | gochujang, perilla, red leaf lettuce, crème fraiche, masienda tortilla
The tostada was another winner. I loved how the nuttiness of sesame oil paired with the sweet, briny crab, while the trademark heat from the gochujang crept in on the back end.


Golden Prawn Toast [$16.00] | ama ebi, brown butter, yangban makgeolli, golden sauce, cherry tomato, cured egg yolk
This take on shrimp toast turned out to be the weakest of the snacks. I felt that the prawns were actually overwhelmed by the creamy, buttery elements in the dish, and flavors thus got a bit muddled. I found the bread a tad tough, too.


Left Hook [$16.00] | a tropically toned mexican punch / blanco tequila, mezcal, green tea, passionfruit, gochujang, lemon
My first cocktail blended smoke and tropical fruits to good effect before finishing with a long-lasting heat. Think of it as a punch that packs quite a bit of punch.


Wagyu Stuffed Perilla Leaf [$12.00] | vermicelli, beef fat tare, cotija
This yukjeon-esque dish was another highlight. I was a fan of the juiciness and richness of the meat, and how that meshed with those crispy fried bits, all while the perilla contributed just enough brightness.


Squashini Jeon [$7.00] | whipped crème fraiche, trout roe
A squash fritter ate dense and sweet, and really set the stage for a tasty juxtaposition of creamy with briny.


Fried Lobster Claw [$16.00] | chojang mayo, tarragon, meyer lemon
A sort of lobster twigim combined the crustacean's sweet salinity with subtle spicing, and I appreciated how its fried exterior provided crunch without getting in the way taste-wise. The fritter was delicious alone, but was taken up a notch by that chojang-boosted mayonnaise, which had this piquant spice that complemented the lobster without overpowering it.


Right Hook [$16.00] | juicy old fashioned / american whiskey, pandan, pineapple, pale cream sherry, bitters
This old fashioned variation showcased the requisite bitter, boozy notes, but the key here was than pandan, which imparted this familiar, sweet, ricey warmth that really elevated the cocktail.


Grilled Cucumber | yangban chili oil, toasted cumin, meyer lemon juice
The banchan here are on the creative side, and come in a set of five, priced at $28, and naturally we had to give 'em a try. Up first were the cucumbers, which came out bright, crunchy, and perfectly matched with that intriguing interplay between chili oil and the warm, nutty character of cumin.


Kimchi | kae sung kimchi, habanero, roasted sesame oil
We had to have kimchi, of course, and tonight's possessed less heat, less sourness than I expected, but was quite a bit nuttier, which I didn't mind.


Steamed Broccoli | yuzu, chicken skin furikake
Taken alone, the broccoli was lightly flavored, so its tart-yet-savory broth was crucial, as was the saltiness imparted by the chicken-y bits.


Blossom [$16.00] | our version of the white negroni / sesame washed gin, blanc vermouth, locally produced amaro angeleno
Our third cocktail really conveyed that bittersweetness you expect from a Negroni. At the same time though, the sesame gave the drink a beguiling nuttiness that I thoroughly enjoyed.


Brokaw Avocado & Shinko Pear | hot mustard, california almonds, yangban rice seasoning
Up next was arguably the most interesting of tonight's banchan. The crux here was the interaction between that juicy Asian pear and the dish's unabashedly savory, spicy components, underscored by a mustard-y heat. In addition, the avocado served as a creamy moderator, and I liked the nutty crunch of those almonds, too.


Honey Glazed Carrots | whipped yogurt, halaawi date, walnut oil, herbs
The carrots were certainly a favorite. I loved their dense, sticky consistency, while flavors were sweet and nutty, with a fantastic herbal counterpoint. Very clever.


Sujebi [$28.00] | white kimchi beurre blanc, poached ocean trout, trout roe, dill
Hand-pulled pasta ate hearty and satisfying, with a great chew, while that duet of supple, saline trout and zippy dill was a match made in heaven.


Jungle Juice | cocchi americano, amaro angeleno, peach tea, coconut water, sherry, brandy, pineapple juice, watermelon, pandan syrup, whiskey, orange vermouth, dry vermouth
Given that we'd ordered so much, we were given a complimentary serving of Yangban's "secret" cocktail. Due to the huge hodgepodge of ingredients in the drink, there was lots going on, but it all coalesced surprisingly well. I actually got a vaguely carrot-y sensation, offset by a very apparent, amaro-like bittersweetness. A fun one.


Lobster Congee Pot Pie [$32.00] | poached lobster tail, fine herbs, marigold, lobster brown butter
I'm a sucker for pot pie, so this was an absolute must-try for me. I was pretty smitten by the concentration, depth, savoriness, and sheer coziness of the congee, and loved how the porridge contrasted with the lightly cooked pieces of lobster up top, while the herbs provided further brightness.


Matzoh Ball Mandu [$26.00] | stuffed with grandma sindy's matzoh ball, chicken broth, shmaltz
This matzah-mandoo mash-up was an effective reimagining of a classic Jewish staple. I was a fan of the texture on the dumplings, while their subdued flavors melded easily with the assertively chicken-y notes from the soup.



Gochujang Braised Black Cod [$42.00] | joseon radish, rice cake, kabocha squash, sylvetta arugula, garlic butter black rice
Eundaegu arrived wonderfully soft, buttery, and flaky, the fish's subtle flavors working hand-in-hand with a refined-yet-robust, slightly peppery gochujang broth. The greens lightened the mood, and I appreciated the additional textural interest from the tteok. The cod was accompanied by a bowl of rice, which was excellent texturally, and had this restrained garlickiness that really worked for me.


Desert Lotus [$16.00] | elemental margarita variant / mezcal, cactus pear brandy, melon, acidified prickly pear water
The night's final cocktail was lovely, commingling the captivating smokiness of mezcal with the even more captivating sweetness of prickly pear.


Grilled King's Cut Short Rib [$52.00] | potato puree, grilled king trumpet and shiitakes, galbi jus, toasted bread crumb, horseradish, chive
Our short rib dish didn't quite meet the mark. The beef was as tender and fatty as I was hoping for, but was overly seasoned for my tastes, especially when taken with the mushrooms, though the puréed potatoes did help even things out. I also would've liked a bit more smoke character on the meat.


Stone Pot Rice [$44.00] | koshihikari rice, peads and barnett pork belly, aged kaesung kimchi, bean sprout dashi, garlic chive kimchi
The dolsot rice was another must-try, and turned out to be another favorite. The pork itself was well spiced and richly flavored, and paired perfectly with the veggies, the zestiness of the buchu being particular apropos. I also reveled in how satisfying the rice itself was, and enjoyed how the heat from the aged kimchi seemed to help tie everything together. My only quibble was that I wanted more nurungji action.


Matang Goguma Custard Pie [$16.00] | roasted white sweet potato, condensed milk, vanilla, burnt sugar
Our lone dessert also delivered. The sweetness of goguma was front and center, and combined like clockwork with the pie's smoky, sugary brûléed top. The vanilla-laced condensed milk sauce was also pretty great, and taken all together, and I swear that I tasted Danish butter cookies in there.


Closing things out was a cup of Jeju Semi-Handcrafted Sejak Green Tea [$6], a relatively easy-going nogcha with a decidedly fruity quality.


Arriving with the bill was some scorched rice candy from producer Mammos (맘모스).

I enjoyed Yangban Society before, but I do have to conclude that Yangban represents an improvement across the board thanks to its more sophisticated food, drink, and service. The cooking here is smart, engaging, personal, and quite unlike anything else in LA, and the whole concept simply feels more fully-formed; it just feels right. Yet, the original ethos, the original raison d'être behind the restaurant is still plainly recognizable, so I'm glad that the Hongs didn't lose sight of their original vision. Now that being said, I'm very curious to find out what the next evolution of the restaurant will bring. Personally, I'd like to see the team institute a proper tasting menu...

Bello Chef's Table (Newport Beach, CA)

December 15, 2023, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Sushi Sonagi (Gardena, CA)

≪ Previous: Yangban (Los Angeles, CA)

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Bello Chef's Table
1200 Bison Ave, Newport Beach, CA 92660
949-520-7191
www.bellochefstable.com / www.instagram.com/bellochefstable/
Fri 12/15/2023, 07:00p-09:50p





Bello Chef's Table is a spot that'd been at the top of my OC "to-eat" list for a while now. It's basically a kitchen counter tasting menu sort of concept, one that commenced in spring 2021 inside Bello by Sandro Nardone, a popular Italian restaurant that itself opened in November 2019. Regular readers may recall that I was supposed to dine here back in September, but due to some problems with Tock, the tickets that my party purchased were issued in error, and we were thus forced to dine at Camphor that evening instead. We vowed to make it back here eventually, and finally made good on that promise recently.

About the Chefs: The story begins with Sandro Graziano Nardone, a native of Italy who was born in Atina, a town in Lazio's Frosinone province. He got interested in food through his family, who were talented home cooks (his mother Giovanna in particular) and also in the restaurant business. He later attended culinary school at Istituto Alberghiero di Cassino and worked at a number of places around Italy, including Al Mulino. Nardone eventually relocated to the US, and in October 2012, opened Angelina's Pizzeria in Dana Point, which was generally well received.

However, the place soon encountered financial difficulties, and in order to save the restaurant, Nardone secured a loan from a customer by the name of Philip Fusco in late 2013. Fusco ended up purchasing half the business the following May, and he and his wife Shokoufeh "Sho" Amiri began getting involved in operations. The three of them then decided to launch Angelina's Pizzeria Napoletana in Irvine, which debuted in April 2016. Disputes between the partners soon increased to the point that Nardone was driven to leave his post as Executive Chef that September; he then relinquished his remaining stake in the business to Fusco. The original Angelina's ended up shuttering in early 2019, while the Irvine location remains open; the brand also expanded to Laguna Niguel in November 2021 with Bottega Angelina.

With the Angelina's chapter of his life closed, Nardone quickly started work on Bello, and his new restaurant would grand-open on November 18th, 2019 in the old Pita Jungle space. The place proved to be quite popular, and in late February 2021, Chef de Cuisine Zach Scherer was allowed the opportunity to institute Chef's Table as a more creative offering at Bello. You might remember that I first encountered Scherer way back in 2012, when he was still CdC at Playground in Santa Ana. Following his tenure there, he made his way to several OC spots (Haven, Balboa Bay Club, Big Canyon Country Club, The Country Club/Lounge Group) before landing here in September 2020. However, Scherer announced his departure from Bello in July, and was quickly replaced by his sous chef, Drew Adams.

Born in April 1990, Andrew Adams' interest in cooking was sparked at a young age by food television, and throughout his culinary career, he's actually worked at over 40 restaurants, mostly in Orange County. By 2015, he was at Outpost Kitchen in Costa Mesa, though he would leave the South Coast Plaza-adjacent spot by the end of summer 2016. Following, he cooked at Laguna Beach's Three Seventy Common, then joined Scherer at The Country Club in Costa Mesa in December 2017. In July 2019, he helped open Helmsman Ale House in Newport Beach (another Lounge Group property), where he stayed until moving over to Bello in March 2021 as sous, shortly after Chef's Table started.


Shown above is the view from my seat at the far-right end of the six-seater counter. As for pricing, Bello Chef's Table commands $275, plus 20% service, 7.75% tax, and a $5 Tock fee, and this includes a wine pairing. If you'd like to bring some supplemental wine, as we did, corkage is $30 a bottle (though it was waived tonight on account of the aforementioned difficulties we encountered).


1: Oyster, celeriac, apple, vanilla
Kicking things off was a lone Kumamoto, which was lightly steamed, giving it a slightly firm, satisfying, clam-like consistency. The oyster was set atop a purée of celeriac and parsnip, and joined by roasted celery root, Pink Lady apple marinated in Meyer lemon and toasted vanilla bean, Kaluga hybrid caviar, and more toasted vanilla bean. The amalgam of vanilla, lemon, and apple coalesced surprisingly cleverly with the bite's saline notes, and curiously, I was even reminded of Danish butter cookies at points. A really neat start that did a great job setting the tone for the rest of the meal.


2: Hamachi, satsuma, horseradish
Yellowtail was paired with satsuma juice fermented with persimmon, then crowned with shaved daikon, freshly-grated horseradish, and a sprinkle of lime zest. This was another strong effort, and I thoroughly enjoyed how the slightly sour-funkiness present married with the brine and fattiness of the fish. Really nice.


3: Uni, puntarelle, nori, wasabi
This ostensibly Caesar salad-inspired course just might've been my favorite of the night. I loved the interplay between the sweet, creamy nature of Santa Barbara sea urchin and the unabashedly bitter, crunchy qualities of the olive oil-dressed puntarelle. And if that wasn't enough, a dusting of anchovy, nori powder, and dehydrated wasabi imparted a briny, savory character that really completed the equation. Very cool.


4: Scallop, macadamia, poblano
Hefty cuts of Hokkaido scallop demonstrated a palpable sweetness and salinity. However, the crux here was that duet of poblano-infused housemade macadamia milk and an oil incorporating toasted coconut, toasted pumpkin seed, and shiso. Taken together, there was this fantastic nuttiness and creeping heat that matched up wonderfully with the scallop, making for a really smart presentation of the bivalve.


Tonight's dinner seemed like a good excuse to open up a bottle of 1978 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn. Initially, the nose was filled with spiced plums and sauvage, while flavors were all about red, cherried fruit and cacao. With a bit more time, aromas became spicier, more herbaceous, but still with a dark fruit backing; the palate was then silky smooth, with a distinct funkiness and some animale. With even more time, I began smelling suanmei and tasting a softer presentation of spices. Toward the end of the evening, I got aromas of baking spice, while taste-wise, that soft, funky fruit reappeared. The wine was pretty clearly over the hill (I suspect that the cork was compromised), making this more of an interesting than outright pleasurable drinking experience.


5: Chanterelle, Aleppo, roe
BBQ chanterelles were roasted and tossed in rendered, lightly smoked dry-aged beef fat, giving the mushrooms a woodsy, smoky spice that combined seamlessly with the heat of an Aleppo pepper-enriched buttermilk foam and smoked trout roe. Torpedo onions, meanwhile, imparted a zingy accent that really perked up the dish.


6: Foie, persimmon, ponzu, sage
I feel like you don't encounter foie gras very often these days, so I was happy to see it on the menu. The liver was on point texturally, and I loved how its richness meshed so effortlessly with the dish's smokiness. Further facets were provided by a Valencia black truffle ponzu, fermented persimmon, and fried sage, all of which helped even out the strong flavors at play.


7: Black cod, curry, currant
Black cod is apparently one of the Chef's favorite fishes, and he did it justice tonight. The sablefish had that flaky, buttery consistency I was looking for, and worked great with the cozy, familiar flavors of a Thumbelina carrot-boosted curry, as well as a splash of burnt onion oil


8: Black truffle tagliolini
This hand-made pasta certainly met the mark in terms of texture, and made a whole lotta sense with the one-two punch of both black truffle butter and shaved black truffles. Straightforward, but oh-so satisfying.


9: Pork belly, cone head cabbage, rapini
A salty, fatty cut of pork belly was paired with charred Weiser Farms conehead cabbage, and even more crucially, a zippy sauce of rapini, olive oil, and anchovy. Yum.


10: Dry-aged NY, chestnut, beet
In our final savory course, dry-aged NY strip was joined by a roasted chestnut sauce and a beet-pepper hot sauce. The steak itself was spot-on, but the key here was how effectively the meat paired with the dish's delectably nutty heat.


At this point, we were provided an unnamed cocktail that incorporated fig leaf syrup, lemon, Lillet Blanc, and grapefruit syrup, as well as other ingredients that I've forgotten. The drink was decidedly on the refreshing side, actually reminding us of a boozy version of Squirt.


11: Vanilla, Negroni
Serving as a bit of a pre-dessert was a refreshing duo of housemade vanilla bean gelato and blood orange negroni granita.


12: Chocolate, maple, sesame, caviar
For dessert proper, a milk chocolate crémeux worked surprisingly well with the brine of Kaluga caviar, but my favorite thing here was probably that delightful nuttiness imparted by the sesame.


La Diavola | tomato sauce, di stefano mozzarella, spicy salame
Given that we weren't quite sated by the meal's conclusion, we were given an extra pizza to fill us up. It was pretty damn tasty, especially that spicy sausage, and certainly hit the spot.

I really wish that I'd made it out to Bello Chef's Table earlier, since tonight's meal was one of the strongest I've had in Southern California all year. Adams' vision for Italian cuisine is refreshingly modern, bold, and beguiling, and the Chef clearly excels at combining classical ingredients in creative ways. In fact, I'd posit that this place may very well represent the best meal one can have in Orange County at the moment, and probably deserves more attention than it gets.

Sushi Sonagi (Gardena, CA)

December 16, 2023, 5:30 pm

≫ Next: Yess Restaurant (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Bello Chef's Table (Newport Beach, CA)

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Sushi Sonagi
1425 Artesia Blvd, Gardena, CA 90248
www.instagram.com/sushi.sonagi/
Sat 12/16/2023, 05:30p-07:40p



The last time I reported on Daniel Son was back in September last year, when I checked out Katsu Sando in Chinatown. His sandwich shop grew to a second location in San Gabriel in March, but I was far more curious about his planned sushi spot, meant to expand on the omakase dinners he was serving back in the day over at Kura in WeHo, which shuttered in November 2019. My questions were answered earlier this year, when it was announced that Son would be opening Sushi Sonagi in the former strip mall home of the longstanding Kanpachi in Gardena. The restaurant ended up debuting at the start of July serving the Chef's unique style of Korean-inflected sushi omakase. And if you're wondering about the name, it's a reference to the Korean term 소나기, which denotes a period of heavy rain that stops suddenly.


Sonagi's omakase is priced at $200 per person (up from $175 when the place first opened), with a $100 deposit required via Tock, and diners receive a printed copy of the menu, which is something that I wish more sushi restaurants would implement. Beverage-wise, there's a respectable selection of sake, but not much else, so you may want to make use of the corkage option, which is $45 a pop. Click for larger versions.


Pictured above is the view from my position at the sushi counter's rightmost seat; there is no table seating here. Do also note that the lower portion of the bar is actually a holdover from the Kanpachi days, as are all those wooden slats.


Here we see the place setting, replete with a warm oshibori.



1: Chawanmushi, Ikura Shoyuzuke, SB Uni, Gamtae
Son started us off with a substantial egg custard, paired with an even more substantial tongue of Santa Barbara sea urchin as well as the smoky savor of soy-marinated salmon roe. My favorite ingredient here, though, was that gamtae, with its wonderfully grassy, earthy, bitter notes that accented the egg beautifully. I'd actually like to see more chefs incorporate the seaweed into their chawanmushis.


One of my fellow diners graciously shared a pour of his 2006 Henri Goutorbe Champagne Grand Cru Special Club with us. The wine showed off a rich, concentrated nose filled with stone fruits and toast, while the palate demonstrated loads of depth, with a bevy of nutty, caramel-like notes joined by orchard fruits and minerals.


2: Hokkaido Ankimo Tart, Astrea Kaluga Caviar
A decidedly untraditional presentation of sake-poached ankimo effectively paired the monkfish liver's creamy, refined brine with the nutty salinity of caviar and a dusting of shiso blossom and chrysanthemum, all while the tart shell offered up contrast in both taste and texture.


3: Wagyu Yukhoe Toast, Korean Pear, Kinome
Son's take on beef tartare was a winner. I loved the nuttiness imparted by the sesame oil and how that enveloped the meat in such a familiar, satisfying manner. At the same time, the bae gave the bite a juicy sweetness, while the bread served as a moderating force.


Here we see the somewhat unconventional sushi plate, as well as a portion of the Chef's excellent homemade ginger, which I found milder than most, with a great texture.


Given that I typically eat sushi sans chopsticks, the arrival of a finger napkin was a welcomed nicety.


We brought three bottles tonight, and the first was the 2007 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses. Initial aromas here highlighted sour fruits alongside barnyard and caramel. On the palate, I found the wine uncommonly silky, with loads of yellow fruit and a marked grassiness. With more time, the nose actually became more muted, and slightly saline, while taste-wise, I got a lot more saline, but with plenty of mature citrus and hints of pepper.


4: Onagadai / Long-Tailed Snapper – Kagoshima
I believe that this was my first time having onaga sushi, and hopefully it's not my last. The snapper was super soft to the bite, and demonstrated a sweetness that linked up superbly with the herby blossoms and the lingering burn of wasabi.


5: Buri / Wild Yellowtail – Toyama
Yellowtail arrived deeply savory, with a great wasabi-fueled heat, while the rice was particularly nutty, and did a great job mixing things up texturally as well.


6: Shima Aji / Striped Jack – Kagoshima
The striped jack had this wonderfully "crunchy" consistency, while its considerable umami notes once again juxtaposed swimmingly with Son's seemingly extra flavorful shari.


7: Sawara / King Mackerel – Mie
The Spanish mackerel showcased a fantastic smoke that worked hand-in-hand with the fish's soft, fatty flesh, and I loved how the finish was redolent of both wasabi heat and umami.


8: Sumagatsuo / Striped Skipjack Tuna – Kagoshima
Not surprisingly, soy-marinated skipjack ate super savory, but its intensity was evened out by the rice, which was much milder in this bite, so I'm assuming that the Chef utilizes a couple different varieties depending on the neta.


Our second bottle was the 2020 Kokuryu "Nizaemon" Junmai Daiginjo (黒龍 ⼆左衛⾨), a 35% seimai-buai, Yamada Nishiki-based sake. The bouquet here was sugary and inviting, giving up loads of bubblegum and bananas, perked up by a tinge of peppery spice. Taking a sip, I found the nihonshu thick and viscous, its sweet, ricey flavors supported by a rotating cast of tropical fruits.


9: Kohada / Gizzard Shad – Kumamoto
Gizzard shad had that oceany taste you expect, but supported by an underlying fruitiness. The fish's strong flavors were balanced out by the very neutral rice utilized, as well as the sting of wasabi.


10: Mehikari Tempura / Twinkly Eyes – Shizuoka
Fried greeneye showcased a delectable brininess and a spot-on texture to boot, and matched flawlessly with that flaked salt. Given his apparent facility with tempura, I suggested to the Chef that he should open a tempura-ya next!


11: Akagai / Ark Shell – Aomori
Ark clam is a relatively rare sight at sushi-ya around Southern California, so I was happy to see it on the menu tonight. I loved its snappy, satisfying consistency, and its unabashedly oceany flavors matched swimmingly with the wasabi and a bit of mintiness, while the assertively-seasoned rice also served as a welcomed counterpoint.


12: Ganjang Gejang Maki / Soy Cured Crab Roll – Korea
Two-week-fermented gejang was combined with Santa Barbara uni, shiso, and perilla oil, making for a creamy, sweet, saline mélange of flavors offset by the refreshing nature of shiso. My quibble here was that I wanted the seaweed to be crisper.


13: Uni / Sea Urchin – Hokkaido
Hokkaido uni ate cool and creamy and utterly classic, with a mineral-driven quality that meshed seamlessly with the seaweed.


Our third and final bottle was the 2020 Kokuryu "Hachijyuhachigo" Daiginjo (黒龍 ⼋⼗⼋号), which also boasted the use of Yamada Nishiki and a 35% rice polishing ratio. Again, the sake smelled quite distinctly of fresh bananas, but with traces of herbs and spices. It was super smooth over the tongue, with its ricey, astringent, savory nuances joined by more spices as well as florals.


14: Anago / Sea Eel – Nagasaki
Conger eel was melt-in-your-mouth tender, and just might've been the softest example I've ever had. It was also sweeter than usual, which worked with the fish's palpable smokiness.



15: Dolsot Sekogani / Female Snow Crab – Fukui
The seikogani, served with its roe and kanimiso, was definitely a favorite, and easily a contender for the best thing I've eaten all year. I just got loads of concentration, depth, brine, umami, and sheer crab-y goodness, and reveled in all that nutty, crispy, toasty nurungji. Everything just came together flawlessly.



16: Dungeness Crab Soup, Shingiku, Yuzu – Oregon
Cabbage-wrapped Dungeness displayed some wonderfully homey, yet delicate flavors, boosted by a mushroom dashi, while the shungiku brightened things up.


17: Miso Butter Atsuyaki Tamago / Miso Butter Omelet
Son's tamagoyaki incorporates miso, butter, scallop, and shrimp, and was quite a bit more assertive (and tastier) than most. Think sweet and saline, and quite "juicy."


18: Yuzu Panna Cotta, Mandarin Ice – Torrance
A zippy citrus granita was set against yuzu pudding, making for a palate-cleansing sort of dessert that left me refreshed.


We were given a thank you card at the end of the meal, which was a nice detail. If you're curious about Janet and Annie, they're the Chef's wife and sister, respectively, who help with running the restaurant.

Sushi Sonagi made a strong case for itself tonight, and in fact, I'd deem it one of my top meals in LA this year. Son clearly respects Japanese tradition, but at the same time, he's clearly not bound by it. I really enjoyed the thoughtful Korean touches that he incorporated into the meal, and also appreciated the Chef's affability and the family-run nature of the restaurant. It all came together for an omakase experience unlike any other in the region, and I have to conclude that Sonagi is a worthy addition to Los Angeles' sushi pantheon.

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We weren't quite stuffed after dinner, so for some final bites, we made our way to Volcano Burgers in Los Alamitos, an old haunt of mine from my teenage years.


Chili Cheese Fries + Onions [$7.99]
The dish to get is the chili fries, which I first tried in 1995 and which I still order every single time I come here. The fries they use are the perfect type for this application, and I can't fault the chili either, while the zestiness of those onions is absolutely crucial, really brightening things up. I have yet to find a better chilli fries.

Yess Restaurant (Los Angeles, CA)

December 20, 2023, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Angry Egret Dinette (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Sushi Sonagi (Gardena, CA)

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Yess Restaurant
2001 E 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
www.instagram.com/yess.restaurant/ / www.yessaquatic.com
Wed 12/20/2023, 07:30p-11:15p





Of all the LA-area restaurants debuts of 2023, Yess was certainly one of the ones that I was the most curious about, so I made it a point to visit the Downtown spot before the end of the year. The place comes to us from Chef Junya Yamasaki (most known for his time running the cult-y Koya in London), in partnership with Sumiko Himura, Akiko Kaetsu, and Kazuko Kaetsu, who together form a company called Hi Hi Heel Productions. The cuisine served at Yess is described by the team as "progressive Japanese," but also focuses on wood- and charcoal-fired cookery, as well as the use of ingredients local to Southern California.

About the Chef: Yamasaki Junya hails from Hyogo, in the Kansai region of Japan. He attended the University of Tsukuba, then worked in magazines and film (that's how he met future business partner Kino Kaetsu, a producer) before relocating to the United Kingdom. There, he studied photography at Goldsmiths, University of London, during which time he managed a café, and later moved to France, enrolling in a fine arts DNSEP program at ENSAPC (École Nationale Supérieure d'Arts de Paris-Cergy). In Paris, he began working at Masafumi Nomoto's udon restaurant Kunitoraya, though not as a cook.

It was around this period when Yamasaki would meet John Devitt, a former options trader who'd left the finance field for a career in hospitality. Devitt had trained at London Italian mainstay Zafferano under Giorgio Locatelli, with plans to open his own restaurant, but after tasting Sanuki udon for the first time at Kunitoraya, decided that he wanted to focus on those noodles. To open the udon-ya, Devitt recruited Yamasaki as well as Shuko Oda, who'd had some kitchen experience Japan but spent most of her career in fashion. Oda and Yamasaki had initially met while working at Dover Street Market, a clothier in London, and after the concept behind Koya was decided on, she went to train at Kunitoraya for three months, while Yamasaki traveled to Shikoku for culinary research.

The three were able debut Koya in Soho in April 2010 (in the former Alistair Little space at 49 Frith St), and the place soon became one of the most happening eateries in London. Besides the udon, Yamasaki began making a name for himself for his daily-changing specials, featuring British ingredients prepared in a Japanese style, and even went to stage at Magnus Nilsson's Fäviken Magasinet and Dan Hunter's Royal Mail down in Australia. In September 2013, the partners launched Koya Bar next door with Oda running things, while Yamasaki stayed in charge of the original restaurant. However, despite all the success, Yamasaki stepped away from the business in 2015, and Koya ended up serving its last bowl of udon at the end of May that year.

The Chef then returned to Japan in the autumn, did some traveling, and immersed himself in Zen Buddhism and its associated temple cuisine, even staying at a monastery in the mountains for three months. Yamasaki arrived in LA around the end of 2018, and was appalled by the widespread use of imported seafood in the city. He thus set out to utilize local product in his cooking, meeting with local fishermen and even going as far as to free-dive for seafood himself. In December 2020, the Chef launched a food truck called Yess Aquatic, which he parked near his future restaurant location, and joining him were Giles Clark (sous) and Jacob Himmel (junior sous).

Clark, for his part, comes to us from England, and studied philosophy and theology at Trinity College Dublin following a tenure at Eton College. During his time at TCD, he worked at the posh Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in Dublin, and later staged at Chez Panisse, River Cottage, Alinea, and Noma. By spring 2012, he was cooking at The Ten Bells with The Young Turks, then made his way over to St John Bread and Wine. He then joined Yamasaki and company at Koya, where he served as sous chef until shortly before the spot shuttered. Afterward, he went to Japan to train at legendary kaiseki restaurant Kikunoi Honten in Kyoto, then worked for a local fishmonger, and I believe that he also studied tofu-making around this time.

Himmel, meanwhile, is an American, and grew up in the Chicago area. He attended the International Culinary Center in New York, during which time he cooked at Italian eatery All'onda. After completing his studies in December 2015, he became an opening line cook at Momofuku Nishi, and was promoted to sous a year later. At the start of 2018, he decamped in order to stage at Noma, and was actually part of the opening team of Noma 2.0. Following, Himmel returned to the US and got a job at Jaguar Sun in Miami, then, at the start of 2019, went to Japan to apprentice at Terada Honke sake brewery. In June 2019, he started working for Bravo Restaurants back in Chicago, where he focused on revamping the menu at Eduardo's Enoteca, then joined Yess in 2020.

Yess' mobile operation lasted until October 4th, 2021, but Yamasaki soon started up a series of Yess Aquatic Supper Club dinners that December, and continued to pop-up through late 2022. The brick-and-mortar restaurant, meanwhile, debuted on May 3rd this year with a relatively easy-going à la carte menu, but switched to a tasting menu format in September. Soon after, Yess began racking up the accolades, landing on the New York Times' list of the 50 most exciting restaurants in the US. The NY Times quickly followed that up by naming Yess one of the "25 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles Right Now," while Esquire deemed the place one of "The Best New Restaurants in America."


Yess resides in a 1924 building in the Arts District that once housed a Bank of America branch before being left vacant for decades. I find it to be a peculiar space, especially with those huge glass block windows and that super lengthy cypress wood kitchen counter. An interesting point is that the chairs are reportedly made from leftovers of the wood used to reconstruct the Ise Jingū shrine back in 2013.


The menu here is a six-course prix fixe at $110 a head, with your choice of main dish as well as optional supplements, while a more casual à la carte menu is served on Sundays. Beverage-wise, you get a tight selection of sakes and natural-leaning wines, along with a couple shochus, a couple cocktails, and a single beer, all curated by Yukiyasu Kaneko (P. Franco, Noma). Corkage is $50 a bottle. Click for larger versions.


My meal commenced with a serving of fried winter vegetables (honeynut squash, parsnips, sunchokes, beets), which served as an exploration of the disparate types of both crunchiness and salty-sweet ratios.


1: Water Kimchi | with Market Vegetables and Fruits
What appeared to be a riff on dongchimi combined the usual baechu (or hakusai, perhaps more appropriately) with fermented daikon, apple, serrano pepper, and yuzu zest. I appreciated the bitter, slightly peppery liquid, and the array of textures was also quite fetching, while the apple added an unexpected sweetness to the fray. Overall, a refreshing and palate-perking course.


2: California Sweet Bream Sashimi | with Passion Fruit and Makrut Lime Ponzu
Amadai showed off a wonderful chew, its sweetness coming together seamlessly with that extra-citrusy ponzu, a touch of heat, and the zippiness of green onion.


I opted for something easy-drinking in the form of the Gamay d'Auvergne-based 22 "Festejar" Rose, Patrick Bouju, Auvergne [$85]. The pét-nat smelled of tart, juicy red fruits, but with an earthy backing, while the palate demonstrated similar notes, and actually went in a somewhat beer-like direction, reminding me of a fruited saison. An utterly quaffable wine that stood up admirably to the food tonight.


Supplement: Lobster Tartar [$60.00] | Local Spiny Lobster Tartar with fresh Wasabi and Soy pickled Shiso Buds
Ise ebi arrived sticky and supple, with a delicately sweet brine that combined well with the freshness of those shiso leaves, and also opened up with a squirt of citrus. However, the fun part was pairing the tartare with its trio of condiments. The wasabi had that classic heat, which of course made sense, though far more interesting were the soy-pickled shiso buds, which were simultaneously savory yet floral. My favorite accoutrement, however, was the habanero-yuzu, which possessed this wonderfully fruity heat. I also tried all three together, and the combo actually worked somehow, and didn't manage to overwhelm the lobster.


3: Ling Cod Fritter | with Yuzu "An" Sauce
Lingcod fritters paired flaky, juicy, mild-tasting insides with crisp-fried, slightly sweet exteriors that actually recalled youtiao. Helping to tie the dish together, meanwhile, was that thick, piquant sauce, which I'm assuming was derived from ankake.


Supplement: Lamb and Sour Cabbage Rolls [$16.00] | Lightly pickled Cabbage Rolls stuffed with minced Shoulder of Windrose Farm Lamb and braised in Dashi
Lamb took on the familiar, classic, savory flavors of dashi, and effectively played off of the cabbage's tangy, vegetal nature. I also detected a peppery edge in the dish, and somehow, I tasted raisin on the finish.


Supplement: Porcini & Soy Egg Yolk [$28.00] | Grilled California Porcini and Soy cured Egg Yolk
Cuts of porcini exhibited a welcomed contrast in textures, with some bits having a meaty, snappy consistency, while others were soft and nearly eggplant-like. Taste-wise, their roasty, woodsy qualities played well with the luscious, umami-laden character of that yolk, making for an appropriately autumnal dish.


4: Monk's "Chirashi-Sushi"
Next up was the latest version of a seasonally-changing course, one comprising sweet beans, seaweed, sunchoke, persimmon, chrysanthemum flowers, and walnuts roasted in their shells. The dish represented a hodgepodge of tastes and textures, but one that came together in a clever manner. The umami notes from the seaweed were key, and really set the stage for a bevy of sweet, nutty, and pickle-y flavors. I was a fan of the just-sticky-enough texture on the rice, too.


5: White Turnip "Surinagashi" Soup
Along with the rice above came a hot, heartwarming soup loaded with delectably bitter, ginger-y notes. I wouldn't have minded a bigger bowl of the stuff.


6: Halibut Schnitzel and Warm Rouille Sauce | Shinkei-jime Halibut Cutlet with steamed Turnip and Scallion, served with grilled Sweet Potato and Habanero Rouille
Given my penchant for schnitzel of all sorts, this was an obvious choice for my main course. The crux here was the interplay between the fruity, lingering heat of the habanero and the zesty scallions, which was just fantastic. It was a pretty intense back-and-forth, yet managed not to overwhelm the comparatively delicate taste of the fish, and I liked how the turnips lightened things up.


Supplement: Cacao, Raisins and Sweet Potato [$20.00] | Comal roasted Japanese Sweet Potato, Cacao Beans and Raisins
Dessert was pretty unconventional, and might just be the most contemplative I've had all year. For me, the way to approach this was to enjoy the sweet smokiness of the yaki-imo, then juxtapose that with the more overt sweetness of the raisins, and the far more aggressively smoky, roasty, nutty aspects of the cacao.

The food at Yess is fundamentally Japanese at its core if we're talking technique and ethos, but the cuisine has been re-interpreted through the lens of seasonal Californian ingredients. That's not the whole story here, though. Yamasaki's cooking has a direct, minimalistic, almost monastic feel to it, and comes across as quite "cheffy," so to speak. It's an approach that appealed to me, but at the same time, I could very easily imagine it as being off-putting to many others. This seems like a polarizing sort of place, and in fact, might be the most polarizing restaurant debut since Meteora. And if that wasn't enough, the leisurely service and general vibe made for a rather unique dining experience. I'm not sure how to describe it, but the words that come to mind are cinematic, beguiling, and even a bit surreal at times. Yess isn't for everybody.

As for the team's next steps, they're still planning on launching the more casual Yess Cafe in the same building once things stabilize. Further objectives consist of a members-only space called Good Brown, as well as another, unnamed project that will include a bakery and coffee roaster. Thus, Yamasaki and his crew have some ambitious plans, so I hope that Angelenos are receptive to them.

Angry Egret Dinette (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

December 23, 2023, 7:55 pm

≫ Next: Majordomo (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

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Angry Egret Dinette at Mandarin Plaza
970 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213-278-0987
www.angryegretdinette.com / www.aedinette.com
Sat 12/23/2023, 07:55p-09:20p





I last checked in with Chef Wes Avila not too long after he opened Angry Egret Dinette in Chinatown as a pandemic-era, takeout-focused, daytime-only spot. The place was initially supposed to be merely a temporary operation, but eventually turned into a more or less proper restaurant, with dinner service commencing in September 2021. AED even snagged a nomination for James Beard's "Best New Restaurant" award in March 2022. But despite this apparent success, it was announced in mid-December that the eatery would be closing at the end of the year, and thus, I made it a point to come out for one final meal.


Here we see the interior, which sports a decidedly tropical theme appropriate for the concept. Note that the space was formerly home to Becky Reams and Yeekai Lim's daytime café Lately.


As for the menu, it's a pretty casual affair, with some of the same dishes served during the day. Beverage-wise, you get a handful of easy-going beers, wines, and cocktails. Corkage is $10, but was waived tonight, probably because I shared my booze with the staff (which also resulted in a 10% "Neighborhood" discount on my tab). Click for larger versions.


Esquite [$9.00] | Queso cotija, negra aioli, togarashi, scallion, lime
The esquites was one of the better versions I've tried. The sweetness of the corn was on point, and I really enjoyed how that played with the scallions and the salty, lactic weight of the cheese. If that wasn't enough, the lime did a nice job perking things up, and I liked the undercurrent of heat from the togarashi to boot.


Swordfish Torta [$18.00] | Panko fried swordfish, chipotle aioli, cabbage, pico de gallo
I've never had swordfish in torta form before, but it worked out tonight. The fish itself showed off a crisp, panko-coated crust, along with subtly saline-n-sweet flavors. I also appreciated the brightness imparted by the cabbage and salsa, as well as the soft bread, while that spicy aioli tied it all together.


To drink, I brought along a bottle that I'd been cellaring for a while, the 2009 HORAL's Oude Geuze Mega Blend. This was a union of young and old lambic from eight HORAL (Hoge Raad voor Ambachtelijke Lambiekbieren) members (3 Fonteinen, Boon, De Cam, De Troch, Hanssens, Lindemans, Oud Beersel, Timmermans), first created to celebrate the 7th biannual Toer de Geuze festival in 2009 (thus making this a "batch one" release). The ale showcased a wonderful nose filled with juicy apricots and peaches, supported by layers of florals and earth. Taste-wise, the gueuze displayed a soft, sophisticated sourness undergirded by more stone fruits, a touch of honey, and hints of barnyard. The beer was drinking beautifully tonight, and still has plenty of life left in it--I wish I had another bottle!


Ceviche Tostada [$16.00 + $5.00] | Yellow tail, yuzu vinaigrette, tomatoes, avocado, salsa china, sesame seeds + Add Uni
Yellowtail combined easily with contrasting elements of scallion, sesame, and soy, though the sea urchin didn't add all that much. Great crunch from that tortilla, too.


Chicken Satay Tacos [$16.00] | Curry marinated chicken, with peanut sauce, herb salad, salsa china
The tacos were a surprise standout thanks to the aggressive sear and smoke on the chicken. I enjoyed the dish's assertively sweet-spicy notes as well, all while the veggies lightened things up.


Next to imbibe was another "batch 1" release, the inaugural 2013 Firestone Walker Velvet Merkin, a bourbon barrel-aged oatmeal stout that just celebrated its 10th birthday. The beer smelled strongly of black licorice tinged with coffee-esque and metallic nuances. On the palate, the ale was thin but silky, its base of malty sweetness joined by plenty more licorice, as well as bourbon, cacao, and coffee.


Duck Bahn Mi [$18.00] | Seared duck breast, herb salad, chipotle aioli, hoisin sauce
A generous portion of duck displayed the deep, almost funky flavors I was looking for, offset by veggies, herbs, and the creeping heat of that chipotle-boosted aioli. The suppleness of the bread was once again appreciated, but I found the bird a bit tough in certain spots, making the sandwich somewhat difficult to eat cleanly.


Oxtail Frites [$33.00] | Braised oxtail in a guajillo sauce, salsa negra aioli, served with fries
Oxtails possessed the dark, sticky flavors I was expecting. They were perked up by the green onions, and also demonstrated a nice peppery finish. As for the French fries, I had no complaints. They helped moderate the heft of the beef, and also paired well with a dab of that zippy aioli.

I'm glad that I made it out here one final time. It's a shame that AED is closing, but apparently Chef Avila has bigger plans in mind. Of course, he already debuted Ka'teen in Hollywood back in December 2021, a vibe-y spot inspired by the food of the Yucatán (which I still need to check out). However, his next venture is an upscale northern Mexican steakhouse in WeHo called MXO, so that's definitely something to be on the lookout for coming up.

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Majordomo (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

December 26, 2023, 8:40 pm

≫ Next: Hibi (Los Angeles, CA)

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Majordōmo Restaurant
1725 Naud St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
323-545-4880
www.majordomo.la
Tue 12/26/2023, 08:40p-11:40p





David Chang's Majordomo opened back at the start of 2018 to sizeable anticipation and considerable fanfare. The place was pretty difficult to get into during those early years, but the hype has since died down, and the restaurant has grown into a reliable Chinatown dining stalwart, and thus was the perfect choice for a recent late-ish, post-Christmas dinner.

Somewhat surprisingly, Chang has kept a relatively low profile in LA over the past few years. There was supposed to be a Momofuku Noodle Bar in WeHo, but that didn't end up happening. An outpost of Fuku did open at the SOCIALEATS food hall in Santa Monica back in September 2019, but shut down during the pandemic, only to be briefly revived as part of Kitchen United MIX, which replaced SOCIALEATS. Fuku then embraced a ghost kitchen model, but that experiment was poorly received, and the mini-chain now appears to be limited to just two locations in NYC and concession duty at various sporting venues.


Pictured above is the view from my seat at the northern edge of Majordomo's dining room. Things haven't really changed all that much over the years, which isn't a bad thing.


As for the menu, new dishes have certainly been added by Chef Jude Parra-Sickels since my last visit, though the same general feel remains. We also see the restaurant's cocktail list, wines by the glass selection, and array of sakes, beers, and sundry other beverages. Meanwhile, the wine pairing option appears to be new. Click for larger versions.





One thing that has changed is the wine list. Currently managed by Lead Sommelier Ryan Kraemer (Bungalow Kitchen, 71Above, Yusho in Chicago, PM in Nashville) and Hana Liu, it's quite a bit better these days. Corkage is $40 for the first two bottles, then $60 for each bottle thereafter, while magnums demand $70 a pop. Click for larger versions.


½ Dozen Oysters [$26.00] | kimchi, kombu mignonette
The evening commenced with a half-dozen oysters. I started with the Beausoleils (in the front), which showed off a delicate brine, while the Black Magics were noticeably more saline. The condiments really delivered as well. I appreciated the zingy acidity from the seaweed-boosted mignonette, but even better was that delightfully sweet-n-sour kimchi cocktail sauce.


MSG Martini [$17.00] | ford's gin, oka kura dry bermutto, umami two ways
Apéritif duties were handled by this martini variation. The cocktail had those cool, boozy, botanical aromas I was expecting, but layered with a healthy dosing of citrus. The taste is where the umami really came into play, as the drink was unabashedly savory in disposition. In fact, it was all a bit much, though the Japanese vermouth did help tone things down a bit.


Sliced Hiramasa [$22.00] | fish sauce ponzu, citrus, mint
Tidy shards of yellowtail kingfish ate light and clean, with a lovely texture. The fish paired well with the punchy taste of the ponzu, and I liked the dish's overarching notes of citrus, too.



Bing – Butter, Honey, Black Truffle [$26.00]
Majordomo is fairly well-known for its bing, and for good reason. The Chinese-style flatbread showed off a wonderfully fluffy, multi-layered consistency, and was tasty just by itself. However, as delish as it was, it was indeed much improved when matched with its sugary, musky, and oh-so buttery accoutrements. A favorite.


Autumn's Child [$17.00] | lairds bonded apple brandy, lermorton poire cider, amaro, quince, sakura, bitters, cocchi americano, lemon
My second cocktail was a completely different story than my first. It was decidedly assertive with its orchard fruit flavors, and also conveyed a good amount of sweet spices, making it rather apropos for the season.


Fried Cauliflower [$18.00] | pineapple vinaigrette, cilantro, red onion
Given my proclivity for cauliflower, I was obviously curious about this next dish. I reveled in its rich, umami-driven flavors, countered by touches of tartness and heat, though I just wish that the florets were crunchier.


Grilled Shrimp [$36.00] | jalapeño, garlic, lemon
I ended up eating the shrimp whole, replete with head and shell, and found them mouthwateringly seasoned, with sophisticated spicing and a welcomed tang.


Banana Chocolate Old Fashioned [$16.00] | copalli cacao rum, thai baby banana, miso, tempus fugit crème de banana & chocolate
This riff on an old fashioned demonstrated a surprisingly savory nose, though one with touches of mint and banana. Tasting it, I got cocoa up front, along with restrained banana and more mint, all grounded by the boozy weight of the rum. Overall, the cocktail wasn't nearly as dessert-y as I'd expected.


Roasted Pumpkin [$16.00] | mole, pickled red onion, oregano
I'm generally not a huge fan of pumpkin, but this was a standout tonight. The key was how the squash's smoky sweetness so effortlessly linked up with the nutty heat of that mole, and I quite liked the acidity provided by those pickled onions, too.


Macaroni & Chickpea [$58.00] | miso, black pepper, black truffle
This chickpea miso-enhanced pasta arrived well-textured, with a nice chew on the noodles, and the classically woodsy, earthy flavors of the truffle certainly made sense in this application.


Tepache Junglebird [$18.00] | casco viejo tequila, mal bien espadin mezcal, caffo red bitter, tepache, five spice, pineapple, agave, lime
My second long cocktail went down easy. Think bittersweet spices, plenty of tangy pineapple, and nary any trace of booze.



Duck Confit Crispy Rice [$51.00] | cranberry, leeks, shiso
I'm a sucker for crispy rice, so it should come as no surprise that this was another favorite of mine. In addition to the generous portions of crispy, toasty nurungji, I also enjoyed all those soft, deeply-flavored shreds of duck. The bird was further complemented by the fruitiness of cranberry and what seemed like crunchy, candied hazelnuts, while the leeks and shiso lightened the mood.


Grilled Wagyu Zabuton [$83.00] | steak diane sauce
Our final savory was this Denver steak, which was spot-on in terms of texture, and boasted a satisfying beefiness to boot. However, I found the accompanying sauce a bit overwhelming, as it tended to cover up the inherent tastiness of the meat.


Missionary's Downfall Frozen [$17.00] | sweet potato shochu, 3 rum blend, kikori rice whiskey, peach, shiso, mint, honey, pineapple, lime
The night's penultimate libation was this reworked version of a tiki classic. Not too surprisingly, the cocktail went in an unabashedly tropical, sweet, fruity direction, with just a smidge of herbiness. The frozen consistency of the drink was rather nice, too.


And here we see Majordomo's dessert menu and selection of after-dinner drinks. Click for a larger version.


Pandan Pie [$10.00] | coconut, palm sugar
I have hard time resisting pandan, and indeed, its grassy, ricey warmth was well conveyed here, set against the toasty sweetness of coconut. In addition, I quite liked the pie's brûléed top.


Domoquito [$20.00] | mt. gay xo rum, mars iwai tradition whiskey, amaro braulio, coconut, condensed milk, nutmeg, cinnamon
Our last cocktail was decidedly dessert-y, and highlighted the back-and-forth between coconut, dairy, and fragrant baking spices, offset by just enough bitterness and booziness.


Citrus Pavlova [$19.00] | brown butter, mint
Finishing out the meal was one of the better pavlovas I've had as of late. I appreciated how the refreshing bits of citrus paired with the meringue, while just as crucial were the heftier notes from the brown butter.

The past several years have been tough for David Chang restaurants. Since my first visit to Majordomo, we've seen the closures of Má Pêche (June 2018), Momofuku Nishi (May 2020), Bar Wayō (May 2020, after opening in July 2019), Kāwi/Peach Mart (March 2021, after opening in March 2019), Momofuku Ssäm Bar (September 2023, after relocating in April 2021), and most painfully, Momofuku Ko (November 2023). And that's just New York. Thus, in its hometown, the company is down to just two Momofuku Noodle Bar locations (the second opened in November 2018) and one very casual Bāng Bar (open October 2018), in addition to a few Fukus.

In Las Vegas, both Majordomo Meat & Fish (open December 2019) and Moon Palace (open January 2020) at The Palazzo shuttered in June 2022, though Momofuku and Bāng Bar (open April 2021) are still around at The Cosmopolitan. In Washington DC, Momofuku CCDC closed in May 2020. In Sydney, Momofuku Seiōbo's final service took place in late June 2021. Finally, the tri-level Momofuku location in Toronto (which held Noodle Bar and Kōjin) came to an end in December 2022.

Thus, outside of the aforementioned restaurants remaining in NYC and Vegas, Majordomo is the only other entity left of the once thriving Momofuku empire. Given this grim situation, I really hope that Majordomo can hang on, because the food here is pretty damn good. This really is a key spot for the Chinatown (and Downtown) dining scene, so let's keep our fingers crossed.

Hibi (Los Angeles, CA)

December 27, 2023, 7:15 pm

≫ Next: De La Nonna (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Majordomo (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

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Hibi by Kabuki
3121 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90006
213-674-7244
www.madebyhibi.com
Wed 12/27/2023, 07:15p-09:30p





One of the spots that I wanted to check out by the end of the year was Hibi, and I made it with days to spare. The food here is Korean-inflected Japanese, and just seemed rather interesting, hence my prioritized visit. Curiously, the place is part of Kaizen Dining Group, a company that's not exactly known for its ambitious cuisine. KDG traces its roots to Kabuki, the middling Japanese-ish chain of restaurants that was started back in 1991 by Korean-American restaurateur David Lee. In fact, it's his progeny Albert Lee and Solomon "Sol" Lee, in concert with Daniel Kim, who are the main principals behind Hibi (which, by the way, means "day to day" in Japanese).

About the Chefs: We'll start with Hibi co-founder Albert Lee, who grew up in the midst of his family's restaurants. Following graduation from Arcadia High School in 2002, he studied hospitality management at California State Polytechnic University, Pomona (his father's alma mater), and also worked at the original Kabuki (at 3539 E Foothill Blvd in Pasadena). After starting out as a busboy, he moved up the ladder and eventually became part of the management team, but departed in 2012 in order to enroll in the Le Cordon Bleu program at the California School of Culinary Arts.

Once he finished his studies there, Albert became a line cook at Michael Cimarusti's seminal Providence, where he stayed until 2015. He subsequently relocated to New York, where he worked at Momosan Ramen & Sake, but was back with KDG by 2016. Albert conceptualized Tengoku Ramen Bar for the company, and opened the first location in Arcadia in October 2016, while a second debuted in Koreatown in May 2017; both have since shuttered. He then became KDG's Director of Strategy before launching Hibi with his younger (half-)brother Solomon Lee, who comes from the fashion and music worlds, and was even a musician in Korea.

Hibi thus soft-opened in September 2022 as a ghost kitchen type of setup serving rice bowls and such. It then became a proper restaurant in April this year, but was still very casual, and even popped up at Smorgasburg and MAMA's Nightmarket. However, that all changed in mid-August, when the Lees brought Chef Daniel Kim on board to completely revamp the menu.

Boasting over a decade of high-end restaurant experience, Kim cut his teeth at Le Cirque in Las Vegas. In the fall of 2013, he started working at Providence, where he stayed for a few years before moving over to Christopher Kostow's Michelin three-star The Restaurant at Meadowood in late 2016. He was a sous chef at TRaM, and during his tenure there, worked with John Hong and Katianna Hong, the couple behind Yangban. TRaM, sadly, was destroyed by the California wildfires of 2020, and following the restaurant's closure, Kim began hosting pop-up dinners under the Elmira banner and selling homemade chili sauce before being recruited to run Hibi as chef/partner.


Hibi takes over the former home of the short-lived 760 Prime butcher shop. It's a small space to be sure, and what's pictured above is pretty much the whole restaurant.


Here we see Hibi's refreshingly compact menu. The restaurant's wine list and selection of beer, sake, and soju are also abbreviated, so you'll probably want to make use of that corkage fee, which is $35 a bottle, limit two. Click for larger versions.


truffle tuna (6 pcs) [$29.00] | sliced bluefin tuna, winter truffle vinaigrette, puffed rice
Ruby-hued bolts of Spanish bluefin ate slick and savory, and combined perfectly with the nutty crunch of puffed rice and the oceany kick of gamtae, all while that truffle-boosted vin tied the dish together. A strong start.


potato salad [$9.00] | potatoes, corn, pickled cucumbers, pickled carrots
A Korean-style gamja salad had that creamy consistency I was expecting, and I appreciated both the tang and crunch of the various veggies.


To drink, I brought along the 2019 de Garde The Broken Truck, a blend of four spontaneously-fermented, oak-aged wild ales, created in collaboration with the former Tin Bucket beer bar out in Portland, OR. The nose was all about inviting aromas of peach and apricot, supported by a cast of sour, funky nuances. Taking a sip, I found the ale earthy and invigorating, its tart, spicy, herbal components joined by more of those stone fruit notes. This was drinking great tonight, and still has plenty of life left in it.


kinmedai crudo (6 pcs) [$34.00] | golden eye snapper, yuzu ponzu, scallion oil, smoked young ginger oil, weiser farms daikon, pickled pearl onions
Cuts of splendid alfonsino arrived supple and satisfying, with a clean, sweet taste that married perfectly with the depth and pungency of the scallion-ginger combo, while daikon and onion lightened the mood. It was such a smart, almost profound amalgam of flavors, one that actually wowed me a bit. However, my quibble here was that some sections of the fish's skin were tougher than I'd like.


k.f.c. [$18.00] | korean fried hamachi collar, golden sauce, kimchi powder
Twice-fried yellowtail collar came out juicy, sweet, and assertively saline, with a delicate crust infused with somewhat of a celery-like zing, I'm assuming from the kimchi powder. The fish opened up nicely with a squirt of binchotan-grilled Meyer lemon, and also paired well with that Japanese-inspired golden sauce, which was almost Thousand Island-y in nature.


maitake mushrooms [$17.00] | binchotan grilled mountain meadow maitake mushrooms, egg dashi sabayon, fermented mushroom powder
The hen-of-the-woods was another highlight. The mushroom had that semi-firm, multifaceted texture I wanted, while its gratifyingly earthy flavors matched up easily with the creaminess of that sabayon, with the shavings of cured egg yolk imparting further facets to the dish.


abalone [$19.00] | binchotan grilled abalone, roasted konbu oil, gamtae
Grilled abalone was pretty much spot-on texturally, with a tender, yet slightly chewy bite. Its smoky, savory flavors were on display, and linked up swimmingly with the grassiness of that gamtae seaweed.


miso butter cauliflower [$20.00] | mendoza farms cauliflower, miso butter, crisp iberico, wasabina purée, kizami wasabi
The cauliflower was a favorite of mine. I loved its crunchy, yet yielding texture, and how its smokiness and miso-fueled depth were paired with an almost cheese-y quality and just a hint of heat. Also appreciated was the dollop of purée on the side, which helped brighten things up.


bara uni toast [$42.00] | toasted sourdough bread, bara uni, fresh ikura, miso butter, aged provolone cheese
This sea urchin toast managed to be an unexpected standout. I was a fan of how the sweet, creamy nature of the uni coalesced with all the smoky, savory forces in the dish, but the real surprise was how well the provolone melded with everything without becoming overpowering. Meanwhile, the miso butter was also crucial, since it served as a sort of overarching element that helped integrate the dish.


scallops (3 pcs) [$28.00] | hokkaido scallops, roasted butternut squash, butternut squash purée, white kimchi
Scallops were cooked a tad more than I would've liked, but fortunately that didn't pose too much of a concern. I was actually really impressed by how well the butternut squash functioned, given that I tend to find the ingredient overly sugary. However, that wasn't the case here, and instead, I got this curry-like sweet spice that meshed with the scallops surprisingly beautifully.


stuffed chicken wings (4 pcs) [$21.00] | binchotan grilled chicken wings, taré, stuffed with garlic ginger rice, perilla leaves
Charcoal-grilled wings demonstrated a lovely smoke, and I enjoyed the ease with which the bird combined with its filling of delicately-seasoned rice and zippy perilla.


With the de Garde above dispensed with, I ordered a bottle of the kyoto white yuzu ale [$12] to last me the rest of the meal. As expected, the beer was easy-going and refreshing, and stood up admirably to the food thanks to its floral, spicy, yuzu-spiked flavors.



seasonal catch [$65.00] | binchotan grilled seasonal fish, yuzu beurre blanc, fresh ikura
The catch of the day was kurodai, or black seabream. The snapper was as juicy and saline as I was expecting, and showed off a delectably crispy skin to boot. At the same time, the beurre blanc was quite delicate, and actually paired better than I anticipated with the fish, complementing it without ever getting in the way. I got some nice pops of salt from the salmon roe, too.


Our black snapper was accompanied by a few side dishes. The broccolini was my favorite of the bunch due to its delightful smoke, perked up by pinpricks of tartness.


A trio of pickled vegetables comprised what seemed like cauliflower kimchi, something suan cai-esque, and a fairly familiar fukujinzuke.


Charcoal-roasted sweet potatoes were comfortingly soft and sticky, and featured both a smokiness and a sour heat to go along with their inherent sweetness.


The rice was unexpectedly tasty, even on its own, and boasted a lovely garlickiness and a just-sticky-enough texture.


miso caramel bar [$18.00] | black pepper ice cream, kinako, cinnamon crumble, miso caramel sauce
There's but one dessert at Hibi, and it did seem like a bit of an afterthought. I was hoping for something crisp on the outside but gooey on the inside, but the cake ate drier and tougher than it should've. That being said, the flavors were on point, with the richness of the caramel really making a lot of sense with the ice cream and the dessert's subtly sweet spices.

Hibi ended up being a great way to close out 2023 with, and in fact, this is some of the most exciting food I've had in LA all year. The kitchen's Michelin-level training was evident, and manifested itself in some clever cooking that was simultaneously brash yet finessed, gusty yet elegant. The team here really shows a lot of promise, and things look like they're only going to get better. In early 2024, Hibi will be shifting to a tasting menu format, which I'm confident will allow the restaurant to elevate the cuisine even further, so I'm definitely anticipating that.

De La Nonna (Los Angeles, CA)

December 29, 2023, 4:00 pm

≫ Next: Kinjiro (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Hibi (Los Angeles, CA)

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De La Nonna Restaurant
710 E 4th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90013 / 312 S Alameda Street, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213-221-1268
www.delanonna.com
Fri 12/29/2023, 04:00p-05:40p





Some friends and I recently attended the Jean-Michel Basquiat exhibition held at The Grand LA, and needed somewhere to have an early dinner afterward. We ended up walking over to the Arts District to dine at De La Nonna, a pizza-focused spot centered on Detroit-slash-Sicilian-style pies. The place opened back in November 2021, and comes to us from principals Patrick Costa, Jose L. Cordon, and Lee Zaremba. And if you're curious about the name, it means "from the grandmother" in a mash-up of Spanish and Italian, a nod to Cordon and Costa's heritage.

About the Partners: Executive Chef duties are handled by SoCal native Patrick Costa, who was born in August 1983 to a mother who was a Navy officer. He thus traveled often as a youngster, and even spent a portion of his childhood in Rome with his Italian family. He later moved to Chicagoland to attend Lake Forest College, achieving a bachelor's degree in international relations in 2005. However, the kitchen beckoned, and Costa thus decided to pursue a culinary career, eventually finding himself working at Boka Restaurant Group's Perennial in Chicago, which opened in June 2008 under the watch of Giuseppe Tentori and Ryan Poli. In September 2009, he joined Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, and became a chef de partie at Laurent Gras'L2O.

From there, he moved back to LA and helped Jeff Mahin launch Stella Rossa Pizza Bar, which opened in Santa Monica in April 2011. This was another LEYE project, and spawned Hollywood's Stella Barra Pizzeria two years later. However, Costa left the company in May 2014. Afterward, he became Exec Chef at The Hart and The Hunter, where he stayed for a year. He then joined Reiss Co to oversee culinary operations for the entire group (Sunny Spot, Salt Air, Vito's Pizza). Costa departed Dave Reiss' side in May 2018, then began consulting for Boise's Wylder Hospitality, which lasted until April 2019. He then started working with Tartine, and opened the bakery's SaMo location in March 2020. However, the pandemic struck shortly thereafter, and thus the Chef teamed up with longtime friend Jose Cordon to launch a pizza pop-up called De La Nonna.

Born in November 1984, Jose Luis Cordon hails from the Chicago area, and graduated from St Viator High School in 2002. He began his hospitality career two years later, working his way up from host and barback roles to positions in bartending and management. His last post in Chicago was at Community Tavern in Portage Park, where he was opening beverage director. He left at the end of May 2016, relocated to LA the next week, and soon found work at the Viceroy L'Ermitage in Beverly Hills. In August 2017, Cordon moved over to Ever Bar at the new Kimpton Everly Hotel in Hollywood, and during this period, also worked with cocktail catering company N2 Mixology. In early 2018, he began a role as bar manager at Felix, where he stayed until DLN came into the picture.

De La Nonna first popped up at the end of August 2020 at Dudley Market in Venice. From there, it moved over to Melody in Virgil Village, and then to WeHo Night Market, which was held at Employees Only. In the first half of 2021, DLN also spent time up north at Bodega Los Alamos, as well as at Little Prince in Santa Monica, and it was in April that year when Zaremba joined the crew.

Lee Michael Zaremba was born in December 1981, and originally comes from Iselin, New Jersey, near Edison. However, he spent his teenage years in Cincinnati, where he began his hospitality career by bussing tables. In 2004, he relocated to Illinois to study advertising at Columbia College Chicago. After finishing up in 2007, he worked in marketing and PR, but soon realized that such as career wasn't for him. Zaremba thus decided to travel and focus on his breakdancing, and upon returning to Chicagoland, he found himself bartending at Ripasso in Wicker Park.

Not long after, he transitioned to Simone's Bar in Pilsen, then joined Logan Square cocktail bar Billy Sunday in December 2012. He eventually worked his way up the ranks from bartender to GM, and then to beverage director for parent company Folkart Management. Zaremba left in March 2017 for a position at Boka Restaurant Group, where he oversaw the beverage programs for numerous BRG properties until November 2020. Following, he moved to LA and began work on turning De La Nonna from a pop-up into a proper eatery.



De La Nonna takes over the former home of Lupetti Pizzeria, which opened back at the end of July 2018 but shuttered during the pandemic. The restaurant was redone by partner Heather Tierney of Wanderlust Design (who's also behind Apotheke and The Butcher's Daughter), and now sports an aesthetic that's simultaneously grandma-like, tropical, and retro. There's quite a bit of outdoor seating available, as you can see.


And here's the menu, which features a number of appetizer-ish dishes to go along with those rectangular pizzas. Meanwhile, beverage options include Italian-inspired cocktails, a couple beers, and low-priced, natural-leaning, mostly Italian wines. Click for larger versions.


Bluefin Tuna Tartare [$17.00] | Olive Tapenade, Pepperoncini, Tonnato, Crostini
Up first was a tuna tartar that was a bit too assertive with its use of tapenade and peperoncini. The piquancy of those two ingredients tended to overpower the fish, though fortunately, the creaminess of the tonnato sauce toned things down, and I liked that smoky, toasty bread, too.


Jupiter Jazz [$16.00] | Mezcal, Passionfruit & Pineapple w/ Hazelnut & Lime
My first cocktail demonstrated those tropical, passion fruit-powered flavors I expected, juxtaposed against hits of citrus and sweet spices.


Kanpachi Crudo [$18.00] | Asian Pear, Pomegranate, Lime Leaf & Chili
Our next raw fish preparation was much more successful, and definitely a favorite of mine. The amberjack ate slick and supple, and paired beautifully with the dish's prickly, peppery heat. Also crucial was the apple pear, which imparted a juicy sweetness that worked for contrast.



Whipped Eggplant [$14.00] | w/ Calabrian XO Sauce
I'm usually not a huge eggplant fan, but this version was another highlight for me. The marriage of smoky melanzana and the stinging heat of XO was outstanding, and matched up seamlessly with that grilled house-made focaccia.


Roasted Cali Baby Yams [$12.00] | Harissa Butter, Chives, Pickled Red Onion, Crispy Shallot
The sweet potatoes were also an accomplishment. Not surprisingly, the yams came out soft and sweet, but not too sweet, and melded easily with the restrained pungency of that harissa-boosted butter. However, the crux for me here was the use of pickled onions, which offered up both a countering acidity and a well-placed crunch.


Hot Buttered Rum [$14.00] | Amaro, Aged Rum, Brown Sugar, Butter and Baking Spices
My next choice of cocktail was a mostly traditional hot buttered rum, which felt appropriate given the weather. The drink was as hot and buttery as its name would imply, and showed off just enough of those sweet spices, along with a hint of bitterness from the amaro.


Burrata & Focaccia [$15.00] | Grilled Grapes, Fig Vincotto, Olive Oil & Sea Salt
And now we come to the least effective dish of the evening. The combination of the mozzarella and grapes seemed disjointed, and the flavors just didn't coalesce as well as I was hoping for, though once again, the toasted focaccia was on point.


Pepp [$18.00 + $2.00] | Pepperoni, Tomato, Mozz, Pecorino + Add Spicy Honey
Time for some pizza. Our first showcased those classic pepperoni flavors you want, but set against the sweet heat of spicy honey. In terms of the crust, it was somewhat bread-like, and generally light and tender, but with some nice crispy burnt bits.


White [$17.00] | Japanese Sweet Potato, Fennel, Onion, Pesto & Mozz
This next pizza ended up as my favorite of the three. The key here was really the pie's pesto-fueled freshness and herbaceousness, and how that played with the sweetness of the satsuma-imo.


Old Fashie [$16.00] | Rye Whiskey, Amaro, Coffee Bean & Citrus Oil
The evening's final cocktail was this old fashioned variation, one that was surprisingly buttery, and also displayed plenty of herby, bitter notes, as well as a touch of astringency from the coffee.


Sicilian [$16.00 + $4.00] | Capers, Pine Nuts, Tomato, Olives, Red Onion, Red Chili Flake + Add 'Chovies
Our final pie was this Sicilian pizza, which was the most unconventional of the trio. The taste of the anchovy, herbs, and olive was pretty aggressive, but somehow, the nuttiness of the pinoli kept things in check.


Salted Butterscotch Budino [$9.00] | Rosemary, Orange & Nutmeg
Moving into dessert, the butterscotch pudding was as rich and sugary as I'd want, with the rosemary and salt preventing the budino from becoming monotonous.


Cannolis [$3.00/each] | Orange Ricotta Cream
Last up were the cannoli, which featured properly crunchy pastry shells stuffed with an airy, citrusy ricotta cream.

De La Nonna served its purpose admirably, as we all generally enjoyed the food, which was mostly familiar and cozy, but with some unexpected touches that kept things interesting. It's a useful addition to the neighborhood that I could see myself returning to for a casual bite. As for the partners' other projects, they've since launched The Let's Go! Disco & Cocktail Club in an adjacent space that used to house hi-fi bar In Sheep's Clothing. It's a drinking den ostensibly inspired by the Italian discotecas of the 1970s, so I might check it out sometime; there's even an attached pizza slice takeaway window.

Kinjiro (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

January 4, 2024, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Viaje (Long Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: De La Nonna (Los Angeles, CA)

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Kinjiro Restaurant
424 E 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213-229-8200
www.kinjiro-la.com
Thu 01/04/2024, 07:30p-11:05p





If we're talking about izakaya-style spots in LA, then Nomiya Kinjiro (飲屋 金次郎) unquestionably has to be considered among the cream of the crop. Situated in Little Tokyo's Honda Plaza, the restaurant opened in November 2014, and comes to us from Jun Isogai and Tina Kuo, in concert with Chef Yoshikazu Kondo. I'm quite the fan of the place, and returned recently for a birthday dinner.


The food served at Kinjiro comprises both more traditional and more modern interpretations of izakaya fare, while drink-wise, you'll find a respectable sake selection as well as a short wine list. Corkage is $25 a pop. Click for larger versions.


Seared Uni [$50.00]
I don't usually get to experience sea urchin with this much sear, but it really worked out. The smoke and char combined beautifully with the lush, sweet uni and its accompanying cream sauce, while a base of seaweed provided contrast in both taste and texture. And if that wasn't enough, you also had those crispy sheets of nori, with their complementary roasty, umami-laden notes.


To drink, I brought along a bottle of the 2020 Shiraiwa K.K. Iwa 5 Assemblage 2 Junmai Daiginjo, which interestingly enough, was created by Richard Geoffroy, former chef de cave for Dom Pérignon. The 35% seimaibuai sake had an almost wine-like bouquet at first blush, with a distinctly sweet, floral, yet rice-y quality overlaid with hints of umami. On the palate, this was soft and smooth, its initial savoriness leading to a growing stone fruit character and touches of astringency. I'd say that the Iwa was somewhat richer than most sakes, though still quite dainty, and a fitting pairing with the food.


Seared Kanpachi (Amberjack) with Spicy Ponzu [$30.00]
Just-thick-enough cuts of amberjack showed off a satisfying chew, along with a great sear and smoke that meshed superbly with the fish's sweet, fatty nature. Also appreciated was the zestiness of the green onion and the creeping heat from the momiji oroshi.


Wasabi Potato Salad with Ikura & Smoked Salmon [$16.00]
Given my propensity for potato salad, this was a must-order for me, and certainly delivered the goods. The potesara had the creaminess I was expecting, along with a pervasive, palpable heat from the wasabi that played well with the smoky, savory duet of salmon and its roe, all while the veggies lightened things up.


Organic Baby Spinach with Organic Mushrooms Salad [$16.00]
This seemingly straightforward salad turned out better than anticipated. The key was how the woodsy, buttery 'shrooms matched up so seamlessly with those supple leaves of spinach.


Kibinago Japanese Sardine Tempura [$18.00]
Fried kibinago were delicately battered, with an appealing mix of both sweet and saline flavors. The fish was tasty alone, but opened up nicely with a squirt of lemon. I also appreciated the piquancy provided by the yuzukosho salt, while the mentaiko salt boosted the brine factor even further.


Agedashi Fried Tofu with Organic Mushrooms Ankake Sauce [$20.00]
A deep-fried demisphere of tofu displayed a chewy, almost mochi-like exterior that hid tender insides. Its mild, slightly nutty flavors paired easily with the comfortingly savory qualities of that mushroom sauce, and I liked the additional umami contributed by the sprinkles of nori, too.


Spanish Octopus with Japanese Peppercorn Aioli [$36.00]
Octo arrived with just enough chew, working hand-in-hand with shishitos and the brightness of a shiso leaf condiment. It was even better when taken with the sansho aioli, but was best with a dab of matcha-wasabi salt.


Next to drink was the 1983 Huguet Pinon Vouvray Demi-Sec. The Loire Valley Chenin blanc demonstrated a lush nose filled with pineapples, stone fruits, and honey. Taking a sip, I found the wine silky smooth, with more of those apricot, plum, and honeyed notes countered by a remarkable freshness and acidity. This was definitely mature, yet not over the hill, and was quite a pleasant surprise.


Thick-cut Beef Tongue with Yuzu Negi [$38.00]
Cuts of tongue were indeed as thick as advertised, and showcased a gratifying texture along with a deep, robust beefiness, some buttery traits, and pinpricks of salt. Given the gyutan's heft, the sharp heat of the accompanying yuzu-green onion sauce was much appreciated.


Beef Tongue Curry Rice [$26.00]
I'm a sucker for Japanese curry, so this was another dish that I couldn't pass up. The tongue itself was as soft and homey as I was hoping for, and melded perfectly with the dark, heady, familiar flavors of the curry. Meanwhile, the rice was the perfect companion, and I quite liked the acidity and crunch offered up by the fukujinzuke pickles.


Hot Inaniwa Udon Noodles with Braised Beef Tongue Soup [$26.00]
Our third serving of beef tongue was another standout. Again, the actual chunks of tongue were properly hearty and tender, and meshed flawlessly with that cozy soup, with the bitter greens working superbly for contrast. However, the hero here were the thin noodles, which displayed this wonderfully slick, slightly chewy consistency that I reveled in.


King Salmon "Ochazuke" [$18.00] | Rice with Hot Dashi Broth
The night's final savory was another winner. The key was how the salmon's smoky, saline, fatty nature linked up with the relatively restrained dashi broth, all while the stinging heat of wasabi peeked through just enough. I liked those crunchy, charred cuts of salmon skin, too.


Sake Kasu Crème Brulee [$10.00]
Desserts ended up being comped, perhaps because of the aforementioned birthday, or perhaps because we shared wine with our server. In any case, sake lees gave the crème brûlée a delightfully fruity, almost banana-esque taste that made a lot of sense with the custard's smoky bits and healthy amount of vanilla.


Black Sesame Mousse [$10.00]
This black sesame-boosted mousse made for a fitting close. It had that familiar nuttiness I was looking for, rendered in creamy form, with additional interest provided by both kinako and kuromitsu.

Kinjiro delivered a top-notch izakaya experience tonight, as it always does. I feel like the flavors here are so clearly and cleanly conveyed, and there's a purity, a finesse to the cooking, but also plenty of comfort and familiarity. The food is elevated, but doesn't lose sight of its humble origins. I consider this place an essential part of the Little Tokyo (and Downtown in general) dining scene.

Viaje (Long Beach, CA)

January 14, 2024, 7:20 pm

≫ Next: Pasjoli (Santa Monica, CA) [3]

≪ Previous: Kinjiro (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Viaje Restaurant
5224 2nd St, Long Beach, CA 90803
562-833-9299
www.viajerestaurant.com
Sun 01/14/2024, 07:20p-10:15p





I was recently searching for a place to eat around the LBC, and decided to check out Viaje ("journey"), a contemporary Mexican spot in Belmont Shore. The restaurant comes to us from Jalisciense Julio Gutierrez, who actually co-founded Baja Fish Tacos back in 1996. The mini-chain grew slowly throughout the years, eventually expanding to Long Beach at the end of 2013. However, the location didn't perform as well as expected, and was thus shuttered in February 2019. Gutierrez then teamed up with CDMX native and hospitality vet Sergio Alvarez to launch Viaje, bringing on board Chef Ricardo de la Vega in the process. The place ended up grand-opening on December 30th, 2022, and has been surprisingly well-received.


Gutierrez's former restaurant has been rendered unrecognizable, which is a good thing given what the team is going for. Interestingly, before the building was slanging fish tacos, it was actually composed of four separate storefronts that were subsequently combined: Saga women's clothing store, Sweet Jill's bakery, Paris Tailors & Cleaners, and Fingers & Toes nail salon.


Divvied up simply into starters and mains, Viaje's menu goes for a decidedly multiregional approach, which I think makes sense here. Beverage-wise, you get some surprisingly interesting, mostly agave-based cocktails and a small wine list with a respectable selection of Mexican bottlings. On a related note, I do have to commend the restaurant for using unusually thick paper for the menus, making them very satisfying to handle. Click for larger versions.



Ceviche [$18.00] | catch of the day, tomato, lime juice, onion, cilantro, serrano
Tonight's ceviche featured dense, hearty cuts of mahi-mahi, set against a bevy of bright, acidic flavors, creamy avocado, and just enough tingling heat. The toasty tlayuda chips, meanwhile, provided texture and also toned things down. A promising start.


Mezcalito [$16.00] | malbien mezcal, lime, peach-habanero puree, epazote
We ended up making our way through six cocktails, and this first one was pretty straightforward, offering up plenty of sweet stone fruits up front, but tinged by the pungency of epazote, before transitioning to a lingering smoke and spice.


Pulpo [$23.00] | octopus, smoked chile, potato puree, chorizo
As you might know, I have a hard time resisting octopus, so this was of course a must-try, and didn't disappoint. Prepared a la parrilla, the pulpo was pretty great texturally as well as mouthwateringly seasoned. It was tasty just by itself, but I also appreciated the classic duo of chorizo and potato, while even better was the nutty heat of the accompanying salsa macha, which served as a great exclamation point to the dish.


Empanada de Mariscos [$15.00] | octopus, shrimp, crab, avocado emulsion
The empanadas were also a highlight, one of the best examples I've had in fact. The seafood was delectably spiced yet still palpably briny, and meshed easily with the maize-y character of the masa, while the cilantro and avocado lightened things up.


La Condesa [$16.00] | prickly pear-orange blossom gin, apple, celery, lemon, sage, aquafaba, floral bitters
This comely cocktail displayed a vegetal, almost savory sensation up front that was actually pretty assertive. Meanwhile, the sweetness of the fruit came in on the mid-palate, and the finish was all about the botanicals from the gin.


Camarones a la Diabla [$23.00] | U-8 wild shrimp, adobo, habanero-lime emulsion
Shrimp were cooked a tad more than I would've liked, but I didn't find that to be too much of an issue, since the dish delivered with its spot-on spicing and judicious touches of smoke.


Tetela de Camaron [$21.00] | corn masa, black beans, quesillo, epazote, shrimp, huitlacoche, shiitake mushroom
The tetela also featured some superbly seasoned shrimp, and their sour, spicy flavors married well with the sweetness of the corn, while the huitlacoche and mushrooms imparted a lovely earthiness to the dish.


Oaxacan Old Fashioned [$16.00] | malbien mezcal, pueblo viejo tequila reposado, mole bitters, chocolate bitters, turbinado
This next cocktail was actually sent out by mistake, and thus ended up being comped, which was just fine with me. The key here really was the cacao, and how it melded with the drink's boozy, bitter notes, making for a stiff, yet ever just so sweet libation.


Flautas de Barbacoa [$17.00] | short rib, consome, crema, queso fresco
Rolled tacos are generally a good decision, and that was certainly the case tonight. The deep, dark, unabashedly beefy flavors of the short rib were on clear display, and even more so in the consommé. The crunch of the tortillas was on point as well, and I also liked the contrast provided by the crema and avocado.


Enchiladas Oaxaquenas [$27.00] | black mole, duck confit, plantain puree
The enchiladas also met the mark thanks to that mole negro, with its beguilingly spicy, nutty, cacao-boosted flavors. The sauce made a whole bunch of sense with those supple corn tortillas and tender shreds of duck, while the various garnishes added further facets to the dish.


La Cañada [$16.00] | charanda añejo rum, camazotz oaxacan rum, naranja liqueur, coconut water, demerara, angostura bitters
Here we have arguably the most polarizing cocktail of the night. The crux here was the rum duo, which conveyed a plethora of fruity, astringent, and intriguingly funky notes, softened just a smidge by the drink's other components.


Chile Relleno [$29.00] | shrimp, octopus, portobello mushroom, white wine, clam juice
I was also a big fan of the stuffed chile due to how well the mild, vegetal nature of the pepper coalesced with its briny, smartly seasoned seafood filling. The rice was much appreciated, too.


Cochinita Pibil [$42.00] | pork, axiote, black beans, pickled onions
The puerco pibil ate as soft and succulent as I was hoping for, and paired swimmingly with the sour, spicy qualities of achiote. At the same time, the onions provided a welcomed brightness, and I liked those smoky veggies as well.


La Camelia [$16.00] | malbien mezcal, passion fruit, lime, agave, aquafaba
Tonight's penultimate cocktail was generally easy-going, with tropical fruit flavors all over the place, tempered just a little by the mezcal and the drink's salty rim.


Along with our mains came some thick, hearty corn tortillas that certainly served their purpose.


Barbacoa de Cordero [$34.00] | lamb shank, garbanzo puree, chile morita
Long-cooked lamb arrived fork-tender, and teeming with all the savory, sticky flavors you'd want, all while the veggies worked to offset the heft of the meat. Yum.


Tamarindo [$16.00] | malbien mezcal, lime, agave, serrano
Our final cocktail blended the signature sweet-n-sour nuances of tamarind with the heat of serrano in effective fashion. And no, I did not attempt to eat that flower on top.


Esfera de Chocolate [$14.00]
Dessert duties were handled by a glitter-coated chocolate ganache sphere, filled with chocolate mousse and a chocolate mole center. This multifaceted presentation of cacao was joined by whipped cream, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and crucially, candied almonds, which served as a nutty counterpoint to the chocolate.

I was quite happy with our meal this evening. Long Beach isn't particularly known for its culinary prowess, but a restaurant like Viaje is certainly bucking the trend. The kitchen was on top of things tonight, and was able to deliver bold, robust flavors that were still nuanced, thoughtful, as well as approachable, and overall, the food was just really tasty. This is easily one of my top recommendations for the LBC.

Pasjoli (Santa Monica, CA) [3]

January 19, 2024, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Daru (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Viaje (Long Beach, CA)

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Pasjoli Restaurant
2732 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405
424-330-0020
www.pasjoli.com
Fri 01/19/2024, 08:15p-10:55p





If we're talking about iconic duck dishes in LA, the canard à la rouennaise at Pasjoli is definitely one that comes to mind. Unfortunately, Dave Beran's pressed duck has long eluded me, as it's a dish that must be ordered in advance, so one can't just drop in to the bistro and enjoy it. However, some friends and I recently made a concerted effort to rectify this situation.


Shown above is Pasjoli's menu, which comprises Beran's take on elevated bistrot fare. There's also a more casual bar carte, though unfortunately, the 12-course degustation instituted last June is no longer offered. The drinks are handled by Beverage Director Matt Brodbine (Gjusta, Trois Mec), and he's put together an array of smart, French-leaning cocktails and spirits, as well as a relatively brief, exclusively French wine list that, regrettably, veers young. Corkage was $75 a bottle. Click for larger versions.


œufs mimosa [$12.00] | french deviled eggs, fried duck skin, chive
We began with the canapés section of the menu, and given my penchant for eggs in general, the oeufs mimosa were a must-try. They were pretty much flawless, and I especially enjoyed how the saltiness from the duck skin played with those lush yolks, while the whites contributed some textural variation.


daïquiri #8 [$22.00] | rhum barbancourt 4-year, pineapple, demerara
We started with a round of cocktails, and this first one was an easy-going rendition of your classic daiquiri, one that showcased rich, almost candied pineapple flavors, set against just a faint trace of rum and the egginess of that fluffy foam.


foie de poulet [$26.00] | brioche filled with chicken liver mousse, shaved périgord truffle
The marriage of an earthy yet elegant chicken liver mousse and musky shavings of black truffle was pretty much a match made in heaven, with the bread serving as a great moderating element.


nouvelle vague [$24.00] | citadelle gin, dolin vermouth blanc, fey anmè, strawberry shrub
In this next cocktail ("new wave"), bittersweetness was certainly the name of the game, but commingled with assertive strawberry notes and smidges of botanicals.


gougères [$16.00] | mini gruyère cheese puffs, sauce mornay dipping sauce
Gougères came out light and airy, with a subtle saltiness from the Gruyère. They were tasty alone, but even better with a dab of that luscious Mornay.


pommes et oranges [$25.00] | rozelieures whisky, toutain calvados, dry curaçao, apple, egg white
Our third cocktail showed off an aggressive apple character, which I enjoyed, but overall, the flavors here seemed a bit muddled, and didn't come together as well as I'd hoped.



tartare [$28.00] | dry-aged beef tartare, capers, horseradish, shallots, nasturtium pesto, crostini
Moving into the hors d'œuvres portion of the menu now, the tartar was pretty much spot-on. I was a fan of the chew on the beef, and really appreciated the piquancy offered up by both the capers and horseradish. And if that wasn't enough, the included bread was properly crisp and toasty, and came with a wonderfully zingy pesto sauce.


My party brought along a couple bottles, and first was the 1998 Olivier Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. The burgundy displayed a rich, concentrated nose that went in a distinctly butterscotch-like direction, with hints of honey. On the palate, the wine was smooth and uncommonly dense, with lush caramel notes abound along with mature yellow fruits, all of which spoke to the burg's tertiary characteristics.


tarte aux oignons [$25.00] | french onion tart, gruyère cheese, fried leeks, sauce mornay
The dark, sweet flavors of onion were clearly evident here, yet the tart was still somehow dainty, with the leeks and pastry crust really lightening the mood.


tartine escargot [$31.00] | burgundy snails in herb butter, roasted bone marrow, grilled country bread
Snails were a joy texturally, and conveyed that classic buttery, herby goodness I was looking for, while the frisée brightened things up. And indeed, the marrow was also on point, but the two components didn't meld as well as I'd hoped.


cordon bleu [$24.00] | chicken croquettes, bayonne ham, gruyère cheese, celery salad, remoulade
A reimagined cordon bleu was calling my name. The croquettes were agreeably crisp, and did an admirable job presenting the classic dish's comfortingly cheesy, salty flavors, juxtaposed against the zestiness of those greens. I just wish that the fritters were creamier on the inside. And interestingly, this course really seemed to draw out the sweetness of the wine above.




At this point, we were called up to an area in front of the kitchen in order to watch Chef Beran prepare Pasjoli's signature pressed duck. We witnessed him carving the bird, then using the press to prepare a sauce incorporating liquid from its carcass, flambéed with duck jus, red wine, and cognac.


canard à la presse [$198.00] | whole duck for two - roasted duck breast, market lettuce salad & crispy duck skin, duck leg bread pudding, sauce of pressed duck juices, cognac, & red wine
And here we see the first presentation of that duck: the breasts, roasted to medium-rare. The bird was really done justice. I loved its depth of flavor and creeping, anatine funk, along with its crispy, flavorful skin, while the accompanying sauce offered a sophisticated sort of gaminess that really enhanced the bird's intrinsic character without ever distracting from it. It all made for an intense, heady, yet elegant presentation of the canard that has to be one of LA's most essential duck dishes.


Next up was a salad of lettuce, deeply-flavored confit duck leg, and salty bits of duck skin, dressed with a delightfully acidic duck fat-sherry vinaigrette.


The other leg was slow-cooked with cognac-marinated cherries, onions, and red wine, then enveloped in a bordelaise custard and country-style toast, and finally baked. The resulting bread pudding was both sweet and surprisingly light, and really showed off the heft of that confit'd duck.


To pair with the duck, we brought along a bottle of the 1997 Gaja "Conteisa" Nebbiolo Langhe. The bouquet here was filled with herby strawberries tinged with spice. Taking a sip, I found this cool and minty at first blush, with further spices and lively tannins juxtaposed against blue fruits. We were all quite surprised at how young this tasted, so I imagine that the wine still has plenty of life left in it.


broccolini [$21.00] | roasted broccolini, brown butter & lemon sauce, roasted almonds
Stalks of broccolini were bitter and smoky, with a nice crunch to boot. Roasted almonds and fried shallots added further facets to the dish, and that meunière sauce helped tie it all together.


mérou [$61.00] | black grouper wrapped in savoy cabbage, sprouted cauliflower, purple kale, brown butter & lemon sauce
Meunière sauce made another appearance in this next dish, where it imparted buttery, citrusy nuances to a dense, hearty cylinder of delicate butter-poached grouper. However, my favorite element here was probably that cabbage, which added a lovely vegetal, bitter bent to the fish.


gratin dauphinois [$24.00] | a gratin of potato, gruyère cheese, & cream with seasoned breadcrumbs
You generally can't go too wrong with potatoes au gratin, and indeed, the creamy, cheesy taters, perked up by a layer of crunchy crumbs, certainly satisfied.



champignon [$58.00] | roasted maitake mushrooms, butter-poached carrots, baby carrot salad, potato purée, sauce bourguignon
Tender, feathery cuts of hen-of-the-woods were enriched by a savory mushroom bordelaise, with the root veggies providing a crucial contrast. Also working to balance out the richness of the dish was a side of Robuchon-style pomme purée, though I tend to prefer my mashed potatoes with a bit more texture.


And here we see Pasjoli's dessert menu, along with the restaurant's selection of after-dinner libations. Click for larger versions.



soufflé au chocolat [$24.00] | bitter chocolate soufflé, vanilla ice cream, candied almonds, chocolate sauce
We enjoyed a pretty much flawless chocolate soufflé, one duly enhanced by those almonds and especially that vanilla ice cream.


gâteau opéra [$19.00] | vanilla & passion fruit cake, white chocolate ganache, passion fruit curd, crispy chocolate, mint
The opera cake also delivered thanks to its bang-on layers of saturated sponge and ganache, tarted up by a very tropical, nearly funky passion fruit curd.

We came here mainly for the duck, and it did not disappoint, nor did the rest of the food. Pasjoli is a thoughtful rendition of an upscale bistro, and one of the best French spots in Los Angeles, so it's a real shame that the place lost its Michelin star back at the end of 2022. As for Beran's next move, he's working on a follow-up to Dialogue, his high-end tasting menu place that closed back in November 2020. The still-unnamed restaurant is reportedly debuting this year at 3110 Main Street in SaMo, so that's definitely something to be on the lookout for.

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Prior to our dinner, we tasted a sample of the Karuizawa Ruby Geisha 34 Year Old, a Japanese single malt whisky that was matured in a single sherry butt. The nose here was quite appealing, teeming with woodsy spices and dark fruits. In terms of taste, think sherry-soaked oak combined with astringent, medicinal spices, with dark fruits appearing on the mid-palate. We then had the whisky with three drops of water added, which seemed to give the spirit a noticeably more candied character. This was my first time having a whisky from Karuizawa, and while I certainly enjoyed it, I can safely say that I won't be paying the $35,000+ that retailers are asking for a bottle.

Daru (Washington, DC)

January 22, 2024, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: The Green Zone (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Pasjoli (Santa Monica, CA) [3]

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Daru Restaurant
1451 Maryland Ave NE, Washington, DC 20002
202-388-1848
www.darudc.com
Mon 01/22/2024, 07:45p-10:20p





I was in the nation's capital recently for a two-week business trip, and the first place I checked out was Daru, a spot that had been recommended to me a number of times by industry folks in the District, including those at Allegory and Trouble Bird. Opened in August 2021, the restaurant-slash-bar serves updated takes on Indian fare, and takes its name from desi daru, a moonshine-style beverage made from molasses. The principals here are Chef Suresh Sundas and Dante Datta, both of whom have been involved in the DC dining scene for over a decade (they're joined by silent partner Calvin Kim).

About the Partners: A native of Nepal, Chef Sundas hails from Kathmandu, and graduated from Panchayat Higher Secondary School in 1999, after which he achieved a bachelor's degree in commerce from Tribhuvan University in 2002. He ended up immigrating to the United States in 2007, and subsequently found employment in DC's Indian dining scene. He would join the team at Ashok Bajaj's Rasika, under Chef Vikram Sunderam, and helped open Rasika West End, which bowed in March 2012. Sundas became tandoor chef there, and in the process, met future business Dante Datta.

Datta was born in Silver Spring, Maryland to parents from West Bengal. He grew up in Bethesda, graduating from Walter Johnson High School, and attended college at the University of Maryland, College Park. He then toiled in finance, but when he turned 27, decided that he wanted to open a bar. Datta thus began working part-time at Ping Pong Dim Sum in Chinatown to learn the ropes. From there, he became a bartender at nearby Italian spot Bibiana, then joined the opening team for Rasika West End in March 2012. He would leave the modern Indian eatery in December 2015 to become GM at Derek Brown's much-lauded Columbia Room. However, Datta decamped in early 2018 and later took on the bar manager position at Ellē in Mount Pleasant, which had just opened that January.

Sundas and Datta conceptualized Daru all the way back in 2017, and in fact, it was actually called Daruwalla early on. The two announced their plans for the restaurant in January 2019, and in April, they previewed the spot at the New Kitchens on the Block event. A pop-up was held at Green Zone at the end of January 2020, but further such events were of course hampered by the pandemic. During the pre-opening period, Sundas also found work at Maydan, while Datta took on posts at Reveler's Hour and Bresca.

Daru finally grand-opened on August 3rd, 2021 and quickly found an audience. In April 2022, it was awarded a Bib Gourmand from Michelin, which has been retained. That July, the place was deemed "New Restaurant of the Year" at the RAMMY Awards (Sundas was also nominated for "Rising Culinary Star of the Year"), while in September, it landed on Bon Appétit's list of the "50 Best New Restaurants" in the US.


Daru takes over the home of the longstanding Star Grocery, and obviously, the space has been completely redone, with the bar serving as the focal point.


The menu features Sundas' renditions of Indian classics along with new creations, and even has a Nepalese influence given his background. Drink-wise, you get South Asian-inspired cocktails, a handful of beers, and a small-but-fairly-interesting wine list. Click for larger versions.


Mango Shrimp Bhel [$16.00] | Cashew, Mustard Seed, Puffed Rice
We got off to a strong start. The shrimp were spot-on texturally, and not overcooked at all, as I'd feared. They also showed off a lovely smoke and seasoning, and married easily with the light, crispy bhelpuri and fruitiness of the mango. And intriguingly, I even detected some vaguely Cantonese-y flavors in there.


Spicy Nawabi Duck Kebab [$14.00] | Caramelized Onion, Green Chili
The duck kabob was also a winner thanks to its familiar, zingy spicing and creeping heat, all of which just made me want to keep going back for more.


Mountain of the Moon [$15.00] | Nilgiris India Dry Gin, Plum, Sage, Whey, Lemon Oil
My first cocktail came recommended by my server, and she knew what she was talking about. I tasted the sweetness of stone fruit up front, which led to bitter, botanical nuances and a back end loaded with citrus, all while the whey tended to soften things.


Scallops Moilee [$16.00] | Coconut, Curry Leaf, Gun Powder Masala
Scallops arrived well-textured and well-caramelized, their brine complemented by the back-and-forth between the growing, prickly heat of milagai podi and the softly sweet nature of the coconut.


Bison Momo [$12.00] | Scallion, Sesame, Sichuan Peppercorn
Steamed dumplings featured some delectable spicing that was moderated by their substantial, yet still delicate wrappers. They were certainly tasty alone, but the piquancy of that sauce really did complete the package.


Artemesiac [$15.00] | Aged Rum, Grilled Pineapple, Génépy, Feni, Lime, Salt, Black Lemon Bitters
My second cocktail showcased a multifaceted fruitiness countered by herbal, medicinal elements, while the finish was all about lingering tropical notes.


Portobello Mushroom Choila [$12.00] | Grilled Tomato, Red Chili, Sichuan Peppercorn, Labneh
This riff on a Nepalese staple paired earthy 'shrooms with a delightfully fruity heat and plenty of crunchy bits, with the yogurt serving as a moderating force.


Ragda Pattice [$12.00] | Beetroot, Potato, Ginger Chili, Sweet Yogurt, Yellow Lentil
Another surprise favorite was the ragda patties. The crux here was how the dish's potato and lentil base evened out the sweetness of the beet. It really was a delicious combination of savory and sweet flavors, keenly accented by the zestiness of what I believe was mint chutney.


Bandit Queen [$15.00] | Two Indies Rum, Garam Masala, Bonal, Sichuan Amaro, Tamarind, Mole
This next cocktail did a great job balancing the signature sweet-n-sour character of tamarind with bittersweet, herbal components and a healthy dosing of savory spices.




Wild Mushroom Biriyani [$18.00] | Cremini, Shiitake, Mace, Apricot, Served with Raita
A parda-style biryani was another favorite, and likely the finest biryani I've experienced. I loved the dish's familiar, yet potent spicing, which was further heightened by the woodsiness of those mushrooms. The included pomegranate-studded raita served as a cooling counterpoint to the rice, and I was a big fan of that bread "veil," too.


Za'atar Olive Naan [$4.00]
And speaking of bread, I was a big fan of the naan as well. It had a wonderfully fluffy-crisp consistency, and I was smitten by the complex spicing imparted by the za'atar, which made the flatbread stand out from the norm.


Chakra Phool [$15.00] | Feni, Cognac, Apple Brandy, Roasted Star Anise, Peychaud's
The was the booziest cocktail of the bunch, demonstrating a nose filled with citrus and anise, while the palate was all about dark, almost grape-y fruit, alongside alcoholic heat, citrus, caramel, and a scotch-like smoke.


Striped Bass Paturi [$28.00] | Turmeric, Red Chili, Hung Yogurt, Makrut, Served with Kale Kichidhi
The banana leaf-wrapped bass was another highlight, with the fish arriving juicy and supple, with a fantastic sour spice. It was accompanied by a tangy, tomato-ish sort of condiment, as well as a delightfully homey, vegetal khichdi, apparently a nod to a dish that the Chef's mother used to make for him.


Black Daal Burrata [$9.00] | Asofetida, Kashmiri Chili, Ghee
An asafoetida-boosted dal had all the earthy, nutty flavors I was looking for, as well as a marked sweetness that combined well with the cool, creamy cheese.


Lasooni Lamb Chops [$18.00] | Black Garlic, Pink Peppercorn, Dahi Yogurt
Lamb came out properly tender, with a mouthwatering sour spice that linked up swimmingly with the coolness of that yogurt. The potatoes were also commendable thanks to their spot-on seasoning.


Sham Valley Punch [$15.00] | Torontel Pisco, Apricot, Darjeeling Tea, Lemon, Orange Blossom, Milk-Washed
My final cocktail was this clarified punch, a soft, smooth concoction with a commixture of cooling, medicinal, fruity, and anise-like flavors all in harmony.


Wok Fried Cabbage [$8.00] | Szechuan Peppercorn, Grapeseed Oil, Curry Leaf, Clove
Here we have one of the best renditions of cabbage I've had. I just loved the multi-pronged spicing of the dish, and how that played against the bitter, crunchy veggie.



Murgh Makhani [$20.00] | Tandoori Chicken, Spiced Tomato, White Pepper, Jaggery, served with Basmati Rice
The Chef's version of butter chicken displayed more depth and complexity than most, and I was enamored with how its spicing was paired with hints of smoke and a bit of an astringent edge. As for the rice, it was just what I wanted texturally, and boasted a touch of sweetness to boot that made sense with the bird.


A small selection of desserts is offered, along with accompanying after-dinner beverages. Click for a larger version.


To pair with dessert, I requested a pour of Amaro Nonino [$12], a delicately bittersweet digestif loaded with charming notes of citrus and spice.


Gulab Jamun [$10.00] | Pistachio, Warm with Cardamom Gelato
The evening concluded with easily the best gulaab jamun I've tasted. The dough balls were great texturally, and matched up beautifully with the cardamom-spiced ice cream and the dessert's generally nutty, nearly honeyed flavors.

I walked out of Daru duly impressed. The food was both classic yet creative, familiar yet novel, and I loved how smartly and seamlessly Chef Sundas was able to weave his Nepalese influence into the cooking. Cocktails, meanwhile, were commendable as well, and I had no qualms about the service, either. I can definitely see why so many people recommended this place to me, and in fact, this was probably the strongest Indian meal I've ever had.

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The Green Zone (Washington, DC)

January 25, 2024, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Oiji Mi (New York, NY)

≪ Previous: Daru (Washington, DC)

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The Green Zone Bar
2226 18th St NW, Washington, DC 20009
202-579-9606
www.thegreenzonedc.com
Thu 01/25/2024, 08:00p-10:30p





You might recall that during my last trip to DC, I enjoyed a great Mideast cuisine meal at Michael Rafidi's Albi. Now the cocktails there were also quite delicious, and it turns out they were originally the creation of Chris Francke, so I decided to pay his cocktail bar The Green Zone (المنطقة الخضراء) a visit on my latest outing to the District.

About the Bartender: Chris Hassaan Francke is a Washington area native of Iraqi-German descent, and graduated from Johns Hopkins with a bachelor's in international relations (c/o '07) as well as a master's in international economics and Middle East studies (c/o '10), and it was during grad school where he really fell in love with bartending. Following completion of his degree, he worked as an economic analyst for the Arab region, and was actually employed by the World Bank starting in November 2011.

In May 2014, while still at the World Bank, he launched The Green Zone (named after the International Zone of Baghdad) as a pan-Middle Eastern-inspired nomadic cocktail experience, following some months running the project out of his apartment. After four years of popping up at various locations around DC (Francke left his post at the World Bank in June 2017), the permanent version of The Green Zone officially opened on July 26th, 2018, and has generally been well-received since then.


The Green Zone resides in a two-story building in Adams Morgan that was previously home to Rendezvous Lounge/MiG Bar. Upstairs is louder and rowdier...


...While the downstairs is more relaxed, more intimate, and is where I sat.


Pictured above is the view from my seat the bar.

Click here for the menu, which lists a pretty large array of Middle Eastern-leaning cocktails as well as a nice selection of non-alcoholic beverages, not to mention beers, wines, and an impressive spirits list (with a particular focus on rum). In terms of food, think casual, theme-appropriate Arabic fare.


بعض الأشياء المفضلة A Few of my Favorite Things [$17.00] | Arabs’ Favorites, That is. Ramallah Arak, Compass Box Artist Blend Scotch, Lemon, Honey, Nostalgia. Middle East AF
I was able to sample six cocktails, and my first really highlighted the licorice-y zing of anise, set against citrus and the heft of the whisky, with drink's honeyed backbone working to soften everything.


كبة حلب Kubbat Halab [$10.00] | Oddly-Named Iraqi Kibbeh with Halal Beef in a Crunchy Rice Shell (2 per order)
I believe that this was my first time having kubba halab, which is a damn shame, because the fritters were super tasty. They were delectably spiced, with a real warmth, and I was a big fan of the footballs' thin, crisp, toasty exteriors, too.


لبنانية نمرة ١ Lebanese No. 1 [$17.00] | The Legend, Uniquely Delicious - Maison Rouge Cognac VSOP, Apricot, Lemon, Exotic Stuff
My second cocktail showed off loads of pungent citrus, supported by elements of stone fruit, but the big surprise was how well the cognac integrated.


سندويچ گص العراقي Iraqi Guss Sandwich [$15.00] | Iraq’s Answer to Shawarma - Marinated, Roasted, Juicy Halal Beef and Lamb Slices with Tomatoes in Homemade Sammoun Bread with Pickles on the Side (Limited!)
Cuts of smoky, well-seared meat conveyed a bevy of wonderfully warm spices, which made a whole bunch of sense with the brightness from the tomatoes, raw onions, and two types of pickles. It was a rather gratifying combination, though I will say that the samoon was a bit tougher than I was hoping for.


!أنيك ترامپ وخرا عليه FUCK TRUMP! Punch [$17.00] | May He Disappear from History and Never Return! Furious Arab-Mexican Resistance Fusion - Rum, Ilegal Mezcal, Vimto, Lemon
Given my penchant for punch, this cocktail certainly beckoned to me. It was all about rich, dark fruits and sweet spices, and interestingly enough, had a creeping "yogurty" character along with a marked bitterness, while the finish was distinctly rum-driven.


بورگ جبن Cheese Boureg [$9.00] | AKA Sigara Böreği or Rkakat Jibne. Crispy Fillo Rolls Filled with Cheese and Parsley (2 per order)
The börek featured delightfully salty, cheesy interiors juxtaposed against toasty, crispy outsides.


سازعراق Saz'iraq [$17.00] | The Green Zone Classic. Catoctin Rye, Dates, Arabian and Peychaud’s Bitters
This riff on the classic Sazerac was undoubtedly the booziest cocktail of the night. I found it aggressively citrusy on the nose, but on the palate, the drink went in an unquestionably thick, rich direction, with dark fruits all over the place, complemented by loads of caramel and an offsetting bitterness. Nice!



حمص بطحينة Hummus bi Tahina [$10.00 + $6.00] | The Classic - Super Smooth + Mediterranean Pine Nuts Toasted in Clarified Butter
I felt the need to give the hommus a go, and it did not disappoint. The crux here really was the use of those pine nuts, which imparted this wonderfully nutty warmth to the dip that I reveled in. An apt match to that floppy flatbread.


قلوبنا الشائكة والصبورة Our Prickly Patient Hearts [$17.00] | “Prickly” for the Fruit Named “Hearts” by the Aztecs, plus “Patient” for the Palestinians Waiting to Return. Prickly Pear, Reposado Tequila, Cinnamon, Citrus, and Bubbles
I do appreciate the bubbly stuff, hence this next cocktail, which effectively combined the sweetness of prickly pear with the unmistakable spiciness of cinnamon, the agave lending a palpable heft to the drink.


مناقيش على الصاج Saj Mana'ish – Combo with Kishk/Awarma [$14.00]
I was curious about the manakish, and it turned out to be the more uncommon folded preparation. The key here was interplay between the heady, sweetly-spiced, almost nutty lamb and the relatively milder flavors of the kashk, with everything tempered by the flatbread.


سياه ترك Turc Noir [$17.00] | The Very First GZ Cocktail - Turkish Coffee in a Glass - Just Don’t Call it an Espresso Martini! Bosnian Brandy, Lyon Coffee Rum Liqueur, Turkish Coffee, Köpük (Foam)
My final cocktail was certainly on the dessert-y side, and did a great job melding elements of smoke, coffee, citrus, dark fruit, and savory spice into a cohesive, easy-going package.


قره كوى گللى اوغلى فستقلى باقلاوه Karaköy Güllüoğlu Pistachio Baklava [$8.00] | Direct from Istanbul - the best there is!
I ended with the baklava, which was indeed the best I've had thanks to its spot-on marriage of flaky filo with the pastry's soft, nutty, honeyed interior. Yum.

I'd been wanting to try The Green Zone for a while now, and I'm happy that I finally made it out here. In fact, I'm pretty sure that these were the best Mideast-inspired cocktails I've had, and I was a fan of the food as well. This is yet another spot that came highly recommended to me by a number of industry folk here in DC, and again, I can definitely see why.

Oiji Mi (New York, NY)

January 26, 2024, 8:50 pm

≫ Next: Bōm (New York, NY)

≪ Previous: The Green Zone (Washington, DC)

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Oiji Mi Restaurant
17 W 19th St, New York, NY 10011
212-256-1259
www.oijimi.com
Fri 01/26/2024, 08:50p-11:55p





If you've read my last couple of posts, you'll know that I was in DC for work recently. Now given that I was going to be there for two weeks, I decided to take a side trip up to NYC over the weekend. I've been on a bit of a modern Korean kick as of late, so after I landed at LGA, I immediately made my way to the Flatiron District for dinner at Oiji Mi (오이지 미). Named after oiji (a type of pickled cucumber) and mi ("beauty" or "taste"), the place comes to us from Chef Brian Kim (a.k.a. Sehong Kim) and Max Soh, and opened in May 2022 as a follow-up to their original spot, Oiji.

About the Chef: Kim Se-hong (김세홍) was born in Los Angeles, but grew up in Seoul, and also traveled around quite often as a youngster, which helped spark his interest in food. He attended Korea University, where he studied business administration, and after graduating, found his way into the global marketing arm of LG. During this period, he actually partnered up with friends to open up a restaurant, but the place folded after the chef decamped. Kim thus felt the urge to learn how to cook himself, and therefore began training in traditional Korean cuisine in Seoul before relocating to the US circa 2008 in order to study at the Culinary Institute of America.

After his time at culinary school, he cooked for about a year at Bouley, but left in 2012 to open his own place. He teamed up with his CIA roommate, Gramercy Tavern vet, and fellow Seoulite Ku Tae-kyung (구태경), and began looking for a location. It took two years to find a suitable spot, and another year to build it out, but Oiji finally made its debut in February 2015. Just five months after, Maximilian Soh (another CIA alum and former cook at Bouley and Gordan Ramsay at The London, who'd since transitioned to the FOH) was brought on board as GM/Beverage Director.

The East Village eatery quickly made a name for itself for its "localized" Korean fare, and continued to chug along for several years. However, Kim had long envisioned having a more "proper" restaurant, and soon started conceptualizing his sophomore effort, the more upscale Oiji Mi. The original restaurant therefore closed in April 2022 (Taekyung departed the business about a year before the shutter, and is apparently back in Korea helping run his family's restaurants), while Oiji Mi bowed on May 10th that year. In October 2022, the place landed a Michelin star (which it has retained), and last November, it was named one of Esquire's "Best New Restaurants in America."


Oiji Mi occupies the former home of Zio Ristorante, and before that, nightclubs The Imperial, Spy, and Discotheque. The space was redone by AvroKO, and features a design ostensibly inspired by both Art Deco and hanok. Capacity is around 70 in the main dining room...


...While the bar/lounge holds another 30.


And here's my view from the bar.


As for Oiji Mi's menu, it's a five-course prix fixe at $145 a head in the main dining room, with optional wine/non-alcoholic pairings at $115/$65. However, given that I was seated in the bar/lounge, I was able to order à la carte. Click for larger versions.


To drink, you get an array of pretty interesting cocktails (that aren't necessarily Korean-inspired), beers, sul, as well as a surprisingly impressive wine list (see here), all managed by Beverage Director Chris Clark (ex-Aquavit). Click for larger versions.


WIZARD OF BŌM [$20.00] | gin, edamame, burdock, barley
I was able to try five cocktails tonight, and this first one was definitely on the fun, fluffy side, with a pickle-tang up front leading to the booziness of the gin before finishing up with a coconut-y sweetness.


BEEF TARTARE · 육회 [$24.00] | golden kaluga caviar, oiji cucumber, brioche
A reimagined yukhoe did a great job playing the unmistakable tartness of pickled cucumber against some delectably-seasoned meat, with the caviar imparting a hint of salinity. The bread, meanwhile, worked to soften all the flavors at play. A promising first couple bites.


A finger napkin was provided along with the tartar above, which was a nice touch.


BBQ CALAMARI · 오징어 불고기 [$22.00] | tomatillo, avocado, soy lime
The squid was just what I was looking for texturally, and successfully conveyed the sweet, slightly smoky, familiar flavors of bulgogi, countered by the brightness of both cucumber and avocado.


LEATHER WEATHER [$20.00] | rum, pistachio, vin juane, frangelico
My second cocktail was recommended to me by a fellow patron at the bar, and he knew what he was talking about. I got a marked fruitiness at the fore here, overlaid on top of the almost funky nature of the vin juane, with wisps of pistachio overarching everything.


KING CRAB GYERAN-JJIM· 킹크랩 계란찜 [$29.00] | pumpkin, caviar, perilla chimichurri
This slick, jiggly steamed egg custard was quite unlike any other gyeranjjim I've had before. The sweetness of the pumpkin was quite apparent, yet not overwhelming thanks to the zippiness from the perilla, but my favorite thing here was the nutty crunch of the pepitas, which was unexpected but not unwelcomed.


STRIPED JACK HWE· 회 [$24.00] | spaghetti squash, seaweed scallion vinaigrette
Cuts of striped jack showed off a refined brine that matched up beautifully with the dish's ginger-y pungency and those bright, crunchy shreds of squash, while that zesty vinaigrette help bring it all together. A highlight for me.


CONIFEROUS FLIP [$19.00] | soju, montenegro, allspice dram, egg white
The requisite soju-based cocktail demonstrated a bracing, astringent quality up front, leading to sweet spices and pine, the egg moderating everything.


OCTOPUS · 갈낙탕 [$28.00] | somyeon, wagyu galbi broth, hearts of palm
The gallaktang was another winner. The octo itself was as tender as I wanted, and I was a fan of the slippery, just-chewy-enough consistency of the noodles, too. However, the key here was that broth, which I found wonderfully rich, heady, and savory. The veggies were much appreciated as well, as they tended to lighten the mood.


OIJI BOWL · 성게알 덮밥 [$48.00] | sea urchin, sweet shrimp, oiji, seaweed rice
This deopbap is a signature dish, and I can certainly understand why. The seaweed-boosted rice showcased a wonderfully smoky, savory character, with the right amount of "stick," and was enjoyable just by itself. The bap made sense with the sweet salinity of the baby shrimp, but the star here was indeed that Hokkaido-sourced seongge, with its cool, mineral-y sweetness that melded beautifully with the rice. At the same time, the tangy, crunchy pickles worked as a great accent piece.


WHEYGG NOG [$23.00] | famille migneron whey eau de vie, 1998 henriques & henriques single harvest madeira, whole egg, cream
My penultimate cocktail was a favorite, and likely the best eggnog I've had thanks to its bevy of wonderfully sweet, winter-y spices, set against the lushness of the egg 'n' cream and the drink's distinctly boozy underpinning.


DRY-AGED DUCK · 숙성오리 [$45.00] | potato dumpling, spicy chorizo, kumquat
Sugseong-ori had immense depth and concentration, with some super flavorful skin to boot, and made sense with those chewy dumplings. However, my concern was that I found the kumquat overly tart, so I would've liked a more assertive spice from the chorizo to even that out.


CHAPSSAL DONUTS · 찹쌀 도넛 [$14.00] | gruyère, raclette, sweet rice, crème fraîche ice cream
Desserts come courtesy of Executive Pastry Chef Celia Lee, a South Korean native and French Pastry School grad who's previously worked at the likes of Naro, Atomix, Mifune, The Modern, Ladurée, and Milk Bar. Her glutinous rice doughnuts had that pleasingly chewy texture I was seeking, and displayed a delectable medley of sweet and cheesy flavors that was only further elevated by that unusually viscous ice cream.


EVERYDAY WE TRUFFLIN' [$26.00] | golden barley, disaronno, white chocolate, vanilla, truffle
The night's last cocktail possessed a delicate, truffle-driven musk that worked surprisingly well with the drink's fragrant vanilla notes and undercurrents of chocolate, the amaretto offering up a sweet backbone.


GOGUMA BINGSU· 고구마 빙수 [$16.00] | hudson valley milk, goguma, black sugar
My meal concluded with what might be the best bingsoo I've had. I reveled in its deep sweet potato and caramel-esque flavors, countered by those savory crisps, while the shaved ice's consistency was super light and dainty.

Oiji Mi served as a delicious welcome back to the Manhattan dining scene, and it quickly became apparent to me that the Chef's vision of contemporary Korean cookery is quite unlike any other I'd had before. What was interesting was that the food was simultaneously very familiarly Korean at times, yet seemingly not very Korean at all at others, but it somehow still all made good sense. It was a smart, creative reinterpretation of the cuisine, and I can certainly see why this place was Michelin-starred. That being said, Kim and company have even loftier goals, and thus have recently launched an even more upscale restaurant called Bōm. Located behind Oiji Mi, it opened back in January 2023 and is a tasting menu-only affair at a significantly higher price point. I just might have to check the place out sometime...

Bōm (New York, NY)

January 27, 2024, 5:30 pm

≪ Previous: Oiji Mi (New York, NY)

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Bom Restaurant
17 W 19th St, New York, NY 10011
212-256-1368
www.bom-nyc.com
Sat 01/27/2024, 05:30p-08:35p





If you've read my last post, you'll know that I just visited Brian Kim and Max Soh's Oiji Mi in NYC's Flatiron District. Given the strength of that meal, I was curious to check out Bōm (봄, or "spring," but also an acronym for "Back of Oiji Mi"), their even higher-end dining experience located inside a room at the back of the restaurant. The place grand-opened on January 31st last year as a tasting menu-only modern Korean spot with a distinct focus on gogigui, one that achieved a Michelin star in November. Leading the charge day-to-day is Chef de Cuisine Justin Choung, an alum of Willows Inn, Frantzen, Marea, Gunter Seeger, and Morimoto who's been here for about nine months. From what I understand, he replaced former CdC Teddy Kim (A Voce, Oiji, Le Bernardin), who's now Culinary Director (responsible for dish conceptualization) and was offered equity in the business.


Bōm continues the hanok-meets-Art Deco style we saw earlier at Oiji Mi. The space consists of an 18-seater dining counter surrounding an open kitchen, and shown above is the view from my seat, smack dab in the middle.


Pictured above is tonight's menu, which was priced at a pre-paid $275 a head (down from the initial $325 when the place first opened), plus $55 service, $24.41 tax, and a $5 Tock order fee. The wine pairing is an additional $245, while the non-alcoholic pairing costs $95, and unsurprisingly, you also can choose from Oiji Mi's full wine list (see here), which is what I did. Click for a larger version.


My place setting included a mulsugeon (warm towel), which was much appreciated.



After I'd settled in, I was presented with a selection of the evening's meats. This included two types of tenderloin: 20-day wet-aged and Bōm's signature steak that's wet-aged, then dry-aged 7-10 days under a protective layer of koji and nuruk (a duet of Japanese and Korean fermentation starters), the goal of which is to intensify flavors without drying out the beef. We also see a roll of American wagyu marinated galbi from Black Hawk Farms in Kentucky, as well as a wagyu-Black Angus hybrid rib eye that'd been dry-aged in-house for 21 days using a similar method as the fillet. Optional supplements included Japanese A5 wagyu strip steak and Périgord black truffles.


My evening commenced with a selection of canapés...


1: bluefin tuna | hudson valley foie gras, gamtae
...And this first one married fatty dices of tuna with delicate touches of foie and what I believe was bae, the seaweed "taco shell" contributing an intense, grassy savoriness to the bite.


2: baesuk | ossetra caviar, jujube, tofu
Up next was arguably my favorite of the amuse-bouches. I loved the tartlet's balance between the tofu and the juicy, fruity character of the daechu-Asian pear combo, all while the Ossetra offered up a saltiness on the back end. And curiously enough, I somehow tasted flashes of sour cream-onion dip in there.


To pair with dinner, I went with the Jerome LeFevre, Cuvée X Rated, Extra Sec, Essômes sur Marne NV [$275] (bottled July 2018, disgorged January 2021), a 100% Pinot Meunier blanc de noirs made with extra initial sugar in lieu of dosage. The result of this was something quite special, and rather unlike other Champagnes I've tasted thanks to all the residual sugar. The wine smelled of sweet, aromatic, woodsy spices and honey, with a hint of oxidation. On the palate, the bubbly offered dried, candied fruits along with more honey and more oxidative elements, as well as traces of citrus and brioche. As the liquid warmed, it became even richer, even more luscious, with even more pronounced honey notes and further hints of caramel. There was just so much depth and complexity behind the sparkler's sweetness, making it one of the most memorable Champs I've had. It's a bit of a shame that a lot of people don't appreciate sweeter styles such as this.


3: gyeran | trout roe, apple
This egg salad-inspired tart showcased a delightful sweetness from the apple, accented by pops of finger lime, while the finish had this lingering, nearly foie-like earthiness that surprised me.


I was provided a lemon-ginger-scented towel given the finger food nature of the items above.


4: spot prawn | finger lime, dotorimuk
Imbued with a wonderful smokiness, the spot prawn crudo was another highlight. I loved the brightness and acidity from the tomato vinaigrette, while the acorn jelly served as a great textural element.



Despite what I thought initially, the grills here do not utilize sutbul, but are in fact electric, and come from Japan. They also feature a very effective built-in ventilation system, so I never had to worry about my clothing smelling of KBBQ.


5: baek kimchi ssam | tiger prawn, wagyu, octopus
This Korean royal court cuisine-inspired course was certainly another highlight. I reveled in the amalgam of savory, sweet, and saline flavors in the bite, brightened up by a mintiness from what I assume must be perilla. The zippiness of the white kimchi broth, meanwhile, served as the perfect finishing touch. A triumph.


6: norwegian king crab | gyeran jjim, anchovy
I knew upon my first slurp that this was the best gyeran-jjim I'd ever had. The saline-sweetness of the poached crab was robustly conveyed, augmented by the potency of anchovy broth while being moderated by those silky steamed eggs. The seafood was also perfectly textured, while another thing that stood out to me was the dish's wonderfully prickly, peppery undercurrent.



At this point, my server proceeded to start the grilling process for a couple cuts of tenderloin. Can you tell which is the dry-aged?


7: sablefish | moo jorim, meyer lemon
Gently steamed eundaegu (a.k.a. black cod) showcased a properly buttery, flaky consistency, along with a fantastic depth, savor, and brine that was further boosted by those anchovy-braised radishes. However, the crux here was that zesty Meyer lemon-scallion-myoga condiment, which complemented the fish flawlessly.


Here we see the filet mignons nearing completion. I'll also note that guests at Bōm do not have their own personal grill, but rather, share grills with a number of other diners. This is evinced in the photo above, as all that meat would obviously be way too much for just me.


A peek at the accoutrements for the following course: the posh duo of Kaviari Kristal caviar and Hokkaido bafun sea urchin from producer Ogawa (浜中 小川のうに).


8: tenderloin | ossetra caviar, hokkaido sea urchin, perilla
It was now time for the evening's parade of beef to begin. Up first was a twosome of Australian filet mignon, one wet-aged, and one wet-aged then dry-aged under a layer of koji-nuruk. I started with the standard wet-aged, and found it relatively restrained taste-wise, as tenderloin tends to be. The sweet, creamy seongge was actually more potent, as was the dollop of chimichurri, which melded surprisingly well with the sea urchin roe. The other steak was an altogether different story. It was noticeably firmer to the bite, and demonstrated a greater depth and this almost funky-nutty character that really stood up to the saltiness of the caviar.


A small serving of white kimchi functioned as a welcomed palate cleanser.


9: wagyu galbi | périgord truffle, smoked trout roe, mukeunji
Here we have what's probably the best kalbi dish I've tasted. I was impressed by how perfectly the short rib's sweetness was balanced out by components of smoke and savor. At the same time, the wasabi (or perhaps more fittingly, gochunaeng-i) and radish proffered further contrast, and I loved how that perfectly-textured seasoned rice functioned as this homey base to the dish. I could've easily eaten a bigger bowl of the stuff.


A bowl of dongchimi served as a refreshing respite from the meat.


The ribeye was nearly done grilling.


A preview of the gondeure-bap (Korean thistle rice) that we'd be enjoying later.


10: dry-aged ribeye | celeriac, chicory muchim + black truffle [+45.00]
A duet of 21-day dry-aged rib eye and rib cap was up next. The eye ate as rich and concentrated and buttery and fatty as I was hoping for, while the cap had a milder taste, but a lusher consistency. As good as the beef was though, the gastrique-glazed sweet potato was even better thanks to how well its sugariness melded with the muskiness of those Périgord truffle shavings--it was a match made in heaven. We also had a celery root purée in the middle of it all, which lightened things up.


Geotjeori (young kimchi) incorporating radicchio, Belgian endive, persimmon, and gooseberry certainly helped even out the heft of all the beef we were having.




Supplement: A5 Wagyu NY Strip [$85.00]
I ended up tacking on a strip steak supplement to my meal, and it did not disappoint. The beef was wonderfully fatty and tender and just as decadent as you'd want and expect, and was well accented by the restrained salinity of abalone salt (sprinkled from an actual abalone shell).









11: hansang charim | gondrea namul rice, moo guk, banchan
The final savory course at Bōm is meant as a nod to tradition, and comprises a set of classic, comforting dishes. I began with the mildly-flavored, gondeure-enhanced rice, which had just the right "stick" to it and worked hand-in-hand with that piquant, savory condiment on the side. The bap was joined by some extra-sour six-month-aged kimchi, sweet-mustardy crab, crunchy shreds of pickled radish, and sheets of crispy, toasty seaweed. My favorite item, though, was that muguk, a super cozy radish soup enhanced by tender cuts of wagyu short rib.


12: hallabong | soju, lemon, shiso
Pre-dessert consisted of citrus sorbet and mikan jelly, set in a soju broth and what I believe was a lemon granita. Think utterly refreshing and palate-cleansing, with a minty edge.


FRANK LLOYD MIGHT [$50.00] | louis roque la vieille prune, vep yellow chartreuse, roger groult calvados pays d'auge 12 year
During my dinner at Oiji Mi the previous night, one of the bartenders recommended that I try this cocktail, so I figured it'd be something nice to end with. He knew what he was talking about, because this was pretty fantastic thanks to how harmoniously its orchard fruit, honeyed, lemon, minty, and astringent flavors all came together. Powerful, but yet oh-so elegant at the same time.


13: tarte tatin | sujeonggwa, ginger
Dessert proper was this smart riff on the iconic apple tarte Tatin. I got all the rich, buttery, caramelized flavors I was looking for, but perked up by elements of sweet, pungent spice. Lovely consistency on that ginger ice cream, too.


As a parting gift, I was given a nifty branded bag containing a box of petits fours, which I ate the following day. I started with the pâte de fruit, which showed off some deep, jammy flavors (bokbunja perhaps?). Next was the bonbon, which was thin-shelled and possessed this peanut-like character. The macaron was well-textured, with a fruity-floral, slightly vanilla-y taste. Last up was the chocolate, which ate rich and sticky, with a flowery, berry-esque sweetness.


X(O)PRESSO MARTINI [$45.00] | park xo cognac, navarre rose pineau des charentes, mr. black, espresso, truffle marshmallow
After stepping out of Bōm, I headed over to Oiji Mi's bar for one final drink. What we had was an elevated espresso martini of sorts, one that just might be the strongest rendition of the cocktail I've tried. The key was really how seamlessly forces of dark fruit, roast, smoke, and bitterness coalesced. A fitting nightcap to be sure.

The team at Bōm delivered an outstanding dinner this evening, one that was definitely a step up from what I enjoyed at Oiji Mi the previous night. The food here was more stripped down, more focused, yet simultaneously more luxurious and more opulent, and I liked how both BBQ and non-barbeque courses were mingled. But more importantly, there was this sense of honesty and sincerity to the cooking that really spoke to me. Service was also impeccable. This is my best meal of 2024 thus far, and though the year is admittedly still young, I suspect that it'll remain among my top as the months wear on.