kevinEats

Opus Sushi Restaurant
1027 S Baldwin Ave, Arcadia, CA 91007
626.447.1027
Fri 08/16/2013, 08:15p-11:35p

Opus Sushi Exterior

If being a Korean-owned sushi place is a bad sign, then surely being a Chinese-owned sushi place is even worse. That's some sound logic, but those predispositions were challenged in spectacular fashion last year when I experienced a superb dinner at Ootoro in Walnut. With that meal fresh in memory, I took a gamble on Opus Sushi, which just opened last October in the space formerly occupied by Liang's Village Cuisine, and before that, Maru, another Japanese restaurant (no relation to the new Maru in West LA).

2011 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux

2011 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux

The corkage here is a reasonable $12 per bottle, though apparently the number of bottles they actually charge you for can vary wildly (we were charged for six of the nine bottles, though I've heard they've charged a flat $12 in the past, too). In any case, since Charlie Fu was with us, there was of course going to be Burgundy aplenty. First to the gate was the 2011 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux, one of my favorites of the night. I found it wonderfully light, smooth, almost silky, with soft lemon-y notes and an apparent, but not domineering backbone of minerality. Tasty stuff.

Shimasuzuki 'Ceviche'

1: Shimasuzuki "Ceviche"
Billed as a sort of "Japanese style ceviche," what we had here was a martini glass of striped bass, ikura, caviar, and cucumber. The fish itself was pretty much flawless, supple, yet satisfying to the bite, with a nice depth to it. I really appreciated the additional punch imparted by the two types of roe as well, and the veggies provided a fitting lightness and crunch to the course. One nit: the fish-to-cucumber ratio was a bit off, as there was far more of the latter than needed.

One Chablis deserves another, specifically the 2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cote de Bouguerots. This one didn't quite reach the lofty levels of the former for me, but was enjoyable nonetheless. I found it tighter, more mineral driven and grassy, with more acidity to it. Overall, a bit more contemplative, austere even.

2: Amaebi/Uni/Kaki/Hamaguri Sashimi
Next up was a quartet of shellfish sashimi. I tried the Kumamoto first, and appreciated its trademark brine and how it paired with the tanginess of the tobiko (or was it masago?). The sweet shrimp (which was still moving, mind you), meanwhile, was spot on, crisp and snappy, with a clean taste that went superbly with a pinch of salt and a squirt of lemon. Sea urchin was also on point, with its sweetness nicely matched with the salty oyster hidden underneath. Finally, we had the cherrystone clam, the biggest surprise of the group. I really enjoyed it, particularly its firm, meaty, yet yielding consistency, and appreciated how the sweetness of the bivalve matched the subtly spicy tones present.

Moving on now to a red Burg, we had here the 2008 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays. It was a nice change of pace: bright, vivacious, and peppery on the nose, showing off more of an apparent berry character joined by a subtle undercurrent of earthy, herby, and meaty nuances. A bit tannic and spicy on the back end, too.

3: Madai/Kinmedai/Akamutsu Sushi
The first nigirizushi of the night brought us three relatively rare specimens. I went with the madai (red sea bream) to begin, and found it silky, supple, and delicate in flavor, with a fantastic accompaniment in the form of that piquant yuzukosho. The splendid alfonsino was even better, with its tinge of smoky char that went along with the tart, tangy notes present. Last up was the akamutsu, which I'd had only twice before at Shunka and Bar Masa. This was another winner (my favorite of the bunch), with an even more apparent char to it to go along with the richer, more substantial weight of the fish.

1974 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve

Our next wine was a gift from a seemingly inebriated old Chinese guy sitting next to us at the bar (they really do give the best gifts). For me, this 1974 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve was past its prime, though still drinkable. Think musty, savory, herb-y, and smoky, with lots of faded fruit in a thin, water-y wine. More interesting than good.

4: Mirugai/Aoyagi Sashimi
Next, more clam action. The geoduck was some of the strongest I've had, with its focused, ocean-y savor on proud display, deftly counteracted bit just a hint of citrus. The orange clam, meanwhile, was a different story, with a much softer consistency and milder flavor, accented by the bit of burn from the sprouts tossed in.

Speaking of wines past their prime, here was another example: the 1982 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Cuvée Fleur de Champagne Rosé. This one was pretty much undrinkable (due to a faulty cork), and we barely managed to down a glass of the stuff. The bubbly was utterly oxidized, giving it a tart, nutty, puckering quality that verged on disconcerting. We were actually planning on giving a glass to the aforementioned drunk Chinese gentleman, telling him it was sherry, but unfortunately never got around to it.

5: Shima Aji/Hamachi/Kanpachi Hara Sushi
Here was a tasting of three belly cuts of fish (note that the plates used here are the exact same ones seen at Ootoro!). The striped jack was my favorite of the troika, with its wonderfully sweet flavor interjected by the salty kick of yuzukosho. The yellowtail, conversely, was much fattier, lusher, and more luxurious, while the amberjack was the firmest of the group, with more austerity on the palate.

Switching gears now, we went for some beer, and first up was the Foret Blanche from Brasserie Dupont. It was sort of a classic witbier--crisp and refreshing, with a citrusy, spicy character to it joined by some malty funk.

Hotate

6: Hotate
Live scallop sashimi was sweet and briny, and accented by a sharp prick of citrus-y tang, though the sweetness of the miso could easy overwhelm it. The key, thus, was to incorporate the scallion, which added a wonderful astringency to the mix that really brought everything together.

Our final Burg was the 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières, which was pretty fantastic, easily larger in scale than the two preceding Chards. It was velvety, almost viscous on the tongue, with delectable thrusts of slate and citrusfruit cut by a pleasing acidity.

Torching Uni

Here, we see Chef/Owner Ken-san torching our uni. I understand that he used to work for Ootoro's chef Kai Wei Chen, which may explain some of the similarities in the food.

7: Uni Tataki
This might be the only occasion where I've had seared sea urchin, and I must say, the results were pretty fantastic--I'm surprised more restaurants don't do this. The sweetness of the roe was rightly conveyed, but the counterbalancing char bitterness here just added another layer of complexity that took the sushi to another level.

The lone Bordeaux entry this evening came in the form of the 2005 Chateau Talbot. It was sort of what you'd expect from the wine, with its young tannins and pleasant mix of herbaceous and fruity qualities. Not particularly cerebral, but quite enjoyable nonetheless.

Miyazaki Beef

Ken-san proudly shows off his Miyazaki wagyu strip loin. Dat fat!

8: Miyazaki Gyu Sashi
And here we see the aforementioned meat presented in sashimi form, a silky, delightfully marbled celebration of real-deal Japanese beef, nicely offset by its zesty topping of negi.

Now, Ken-san presents to us an impressive tuna collar for our next course.

9: Kamatoro
Arguably even more impressive than the wagyu was the kamatoro, a wonderfully fatty, slightly chewy sliver of fish that was perfectly accentuated by its yuzukosho topping. If you haven't had kamatoro before, you need to.

10: Miyazaki Gyu
Even more wagyu! Here, it was presented in steak form, a trembling mass of near gelatinous beef, uncompromisingly rich and utterly fatty--just look at the marbling. It was about as close to melt-in-your-mouth as you can get, and was served with accoutrements that did the best they could to contain the intensity of the cut.

11: Kama Yaki
Now, we were given the roasted version of the collar above. It was a heavy, heavy dish, with an almost beef-like quality to it and a pretty profound depth.

Back to beers now with Uinta Brewing's Tilted Smile Imperial Pilsner. This one was much more aggressive than I expected, with a really apparent, sweet-ish malty quality to it counteracted by just enough hop bitterness and a trace of booziness.

12: Ebi No Misoshiru
The heads from the shrimp above were incorporated into a miso soup, the ocean-y goodness of the crustacean adding just that extra bit of flavor to the already wonderfully aromatic, comforting, umami-laced flavors here.

Uni Sushi [$15.00]
An extra course of uni, just because.

1991 Glenlivet Triumph 'Nadurra' 18 Year Old

With dinner coming to an end, we saved the Mikkeller Nelson Sauvignon for another day (was really looking forward to trying it, too) and instead went for the 1991 Glenlivet Triumph "Nadurra" 18 Year Old. This was a limited edition bottling made solely with Triumph barley, distilled and casked 22 years ago and bottled in 2009. I found this surprisingly approachable given its proof, and quite liked its honey-vanilla sweetness and woody characteristics, all finished by a pronounced spiciness. Very nice.

13: Reishi No Aisukurimu
Finally, to close, a refreshingly light, bright lychee ice cream.

The off-menu omakase that we enjoyed rang in at a not-too-unreasonable $150 per head, and I gotta say that the meal was very solid. The food was pretty much spot on throughout the entire night, and the quality of ingredients didn't leave much to be desired. Being able to enjoy true wagyu and kamatoro was a real treat as well, and the fun, jovial nature of our itamae certainly didn't hurt, either. Eating at a Chinese sushi place is certainly a bit of a change from the norm, but it's something that's actually worth experiencing, at least here.

Saam at The Bazaar
465 S La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
310.246.5555
www.thebazaar.com/beverly-hills-saam
Thu 08/22/2013, 08:00p-12:50a

Ever since my first visit back in 2009, Saam has remained my preferred way to dine at The Bazaar, as it affords patrons a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of the main dining room and instead presents a more serene experience focused almost solely on what's on the plate. Given that I quite enjoyed my last meal here, I'm a bit surprised that it's taken me over four years to return, but here I am. Back then, Michael Voltaggio was still in charge, but Saam is now run by Holly Jivin, with assistance from Barcelona native Aitor Zabala (Assistant Director of R&D for José Andrés' Think Food Group) as well as The Bazaar's main chef Joshua Whigham.

Saam's menu is usually 22 courses at $120 a head (with an optional $100 beverage pairing), but tonight we opted for an extended tasting priced at $160 for 29 courses. Click for a larger version.

1: Kaviar Kir Royale
As always, a meal at Saam begins with a welcoming cocktail, and tonight it was a riff on the Kir Royal made with Cava, crème de cassis, and crème de cassis spherifications. It was a fitting apéritif, classic in essence, with the sweetness of the blackcurrant working well with the dry, crisp nature of the sparkling wine.

2: Peking Dumpling
One of the highlights of the meal for me were these cotton candy dumplings stuffed with hoisin and chicharrón, then topped with microcilantro and gold foil. The sweet-savory interplay here was pretty genius, and I loved the herby overtones present as well, which served as the perfect exclamation point to the course. Definitely a "wow" factor here.

Peanut

3: Peanut
The "peanuts" were actually comprised of praline and red Thai curry in a sugar shell, dusted with lime zest and ginger. Think fun, nutty, crunchy, and sweet, with just a hint of piquancy from the curry and a whisper of ginger-y tang.

4: Parmesan Pie
The world's smallest pie was composed of a Parmesan crisp, Parmesan cream, and basil. I really liked this one, with its mildly savory nuances on the attack leading to stronger, cheesier notes toward the back end, all with the herb adding an overarching, countervailing aromatic component to the bite. Yum.

5: Nuts & Yogurt
Here were "ravioli" of pistachio and pine nut encased in rice paper, all set in a yogurt powder. I first tried the pistachio variation, and found it creamy and tangy, with a surprisingly subtle undercurrent of nuttiness. The pine nut version was more interesting, with a particularly intriguing depth to it, but overall, the flavors didn't meld as much as I was hoping for.

Instead of going with the standard wine pairing, we opted for bottles given our large party size (a dozen people). Starting things off was the 2003 Viura, Viña Gravonia, Rioja, R. López de Heredia. I quite liked this one, finding its oxidative quality a fantastic counterpoint to the dry, nutty character of the wine. Surprisingly refreshing, with just a hint of fruit toward the back.

6: Oyster & Jamon
Next, a combo of savory ham, bright cilantro, and tangy lime segments formed a fitting complement to the inherent salinity of the Luna oyster. Particularly satisfying when taken with the paired wine.

7: Ibérico Arlette
This curious looking course was an Ibérico cracker dusted with gold and thyme. It was very light on the palate initially, with the savoriness of the ham only coming through toward the lingering finish, though I would've liked the lushness and unique character of the Jamón to have been more readily apparent here--it was a bit too subtle.

8: Cod & Honey
Cod espuma was wrapped in brik dough, then topped with a line of honey-truffle purée. This was another winner, with the earthy, unabashedly sugary nature of the condiment working wonders against the creamy, fishy base of the dish.

9: Yeye's Carrot
This faux carrot was comprised of a carrot meringue hiding a carrot-ginger sorbet, all garnished by sea grass. It was a classic pairing of the sweet-n-spicy ingredients, and I found the dissolving nature of the meringue particularly interesting here, though quite a few members of my dining party didn't care for this one at all.

10: Carrot & Coconut
Sticking with the carrot theme, here was a dish of coconut-cauliflower purée, nasturtium, coconut crisps, carrot air, and fermented carrot. It was positively fascinating, a lovely mélange of disparate textures and contrasting bright, savory, spicy, and sweet flavors that were almost Asian-y in essence when eaten together (even recalling Korean namul with one of my dining companions).

Keeping with the oxidative bent, next was the 2008 Orange Pinot Grigio, Ram, Venizia Giulia, Italy, Malina. This was to my liking as well, with a smooth, soft fruitiness to go along with the more austere flavors present.

11: Avgotaraho
Here, in a nod to the Greek mullet roe dish of the same name, we had sturgeon roe and burrata in a seared bun, topped with a sprinkle of Maldon. It was a tasty morsel, salty and heavy and satisfying, though I would've preferred a slightly lighter, smaller bun.

12: Teriyaki Rib
Just about the daintiest rib ever featured the sushi staple of kanpachi, joined by wasabi, red curry, and black sesame. It was a delectable offering, with the sweet, smoky nuances here playing well with the ocean-y flavors of the amberjack. I'd have no problem demolishing an entire rack of this!

13: Uni Mango
Arguably my favorite course of the night was this reimagined nigirizushi. We had uni, of course, over a mango sphere, with yuzukosho, cilantro flower, and nori. The key here was how the sweetness of the fruit melded flawlessly with the complementary flavors of the sea urchin, forming a complex of sugary, briny goodness that was dutifully tempered by the umami-laced relish (as well as crunch) of the seaweed on the finish. Masterful.

L'Eggo

14: L'Eggo
Next, a throwback to my childhood favorite Legos, reinvented here as a sort of Negroni, one composed of Campari, orange, and orange zest. It was a bright, bracing bite, with a deft blend of sour and bittersweet flavors that definitely jolted the palate.

Chicken 'Ham'

15: Chicken "Ham"
Eight-hour cured chicken was accompanied by prawn praline, figs, black garlic, and everyone's favorite, chicken skin. It was an unconventional, but effective combo, sweetish at first, with the savoriness of the bird coming through strong toward the close, all with a sort of overarching, moderating herbiness.

16: Garbanzo con Jamón
A potage of garbanzo came with jamón cream and parsley purée. I found it hearty and garlicky, with an almost ramen-like savoriness and an effective, counterbalancing zing from the parsley.

At this point, we moved on to a beer, the Imperial Black IPA, Dubhe, Urah, Uinta Brewing Co. This one was pretty cool, with plenty of dark, malty, chocolate-y flavors tempered by a great touch of hop bitterness.

17: Dark Egg
Another standout was this sort of reworked century egg, one made of a sous vided yolk spherification encased in a truffle gelatin with Parmesan, all set in an olive oil base and paired with a tableside carbonara sauce. It was all that you'd expect: rich, lush, and luxurious, with the runny goodness of that egg beautifully matched by the heady nuances from the truffle, all while the carbonara served to tie everything together. Delish.

18: Chanterelles
Chanterelles formed a natural pairing for chicken oysters, along with fennel and a mushroom cream. The heady, earthy taste of those 'shrooms made for a seamless complement to the immensely flavorful bird, all while the fennel added a wonderfully zesty foil to the dish.

19: Norwegian Lobster
Langoustine was super briny, really tasting of the ocean with a subtle sweetness to it that worked hand-in-hand with the tempering potato espuma, all while the paprika added just a tinge of spice to the dish.

Our sole red wine was the 2001 Rioja, España, Reserva Señorío de P. Peciña. This one had some nice age on it, and showed off pleasingly tart, but silky fruit notes bound by some mild tannins and a nice bit of earthiness and alcohol toward the end.

20: Spanish Octopus
Poached octopus was accompanied by piquillo, corn, aioli, guindilla pepper, and nasturtium. The tentacle tended toward mild, and I would've liked more of a savory, charred (and crisp) character to it, though the Spanish influenced flavor combinations definitely made sense.

21: Sturgeon with Sturgeon
Another favorite of mine was the sturgeon, which arrived wrapped in pancetta and topped with Almas Ara caviar and sprigs of sea grass. The fish was really a shining example of sturgeon: soft and succulent, with a wonderfully salty character to it that I found immensely satisfying. Very nice.

Presenting Lamb Shank

The lamb shank for our next course, presented tableside before being taken back to the kitchen and plated.

22: Lamb Shank
For our last savory course, sous vide lamb shank came with eggplant, yogurt, and za'atar. The meat itself was peppery and deep, with an apparent ovine relish to it, thought it really could've stood to be more tender to the bite. That being said, the smoky, creamy notes here really worked with the lamb, and I was especially fond of that yogurt.

'Philly cheesesteak'

"Philly cheesesteak" | Air bread, cheddar, Wagyu beef
At this point, we requested a supplemental course featuring The Bazaar's signature Philly cheese steak. It was hard not to like, a blast of beefy, salty, and cheesy flavors, offset just a bit by the airy nature of the crunchy bread.

To pair with the desserts, we were provided the 2008 Vidal Ice Wine, Canada, Konzelmann. It was just as you'd expect from an ice wine, coming to us viscous and sweet, with loads of stone fruit flavors joined by just a smidge of nutty goodness. Nice!

23: Japanese Baby Peaches
Our first dessert was a variation of a dish that's been on the menu since day one. The sweetness of the peaches was nicely conveyed here, expertly complemented by the savory, nutty notes from the Di Stefano burrata, brioche, and hazelnut praline. Some nice textures here, too.

24: Dragon's Breath
The omnipresent Dragon's Breath (basically a sweet, cool bite of liquid nitrogen-dipped popcorn) was as fun as ever, especially for the newbies in the group.

25: Strawberry Gazpacho
A strawberry gazpacho was tangy and sweet, a refreshing course amplified further by the vanilla, lime, and espelette notes present.

26: ~~Flan~~Desert in the Desert
A bit of a substitution here: the so-called "Desert in the Desert" dessert was served to us in place of the "Flan in the Desert" advertised on the menu. What we had was a chocolate-cardamom ice cream in almond dust, dehydrated cherry, and raspberry purée. There was a lot going on, but everything definitely made sense, with a wonderful sweet spice joined by a multitude of flavors, all offset by a nice crunch to the course.

27: Milk Chocolate & Bergamot
Our final proper course comprised a milk chocolate cremeux, chocolate croquant, pistachio coulis, Greek yogurt, and mandarin oranges. This was a smart reinterpretation of the classic combo of chocolate and orange, all finished with a delightful nutty tint.

White Chocolate Air / Bubble Wrap

28: White Chocolate Air
29: Bubble Wrap
We concluded, fittingly, with our mignardises course. My favorites? The disintegrating white chocolate air and the sweet-nutty, pop rock-infused raspberry explosion bon bons. And to take home: The Bazaar's take on Rice Krispies treats.

It was great to revisit Saam after all this time and see how the restaurant has evolved. To me, the cooking's gotten a little less "molecular" and a bit more ingredient-focused, though the whimsical presentations and inventive flavor combinations remain. The food was as fun and tasty as I remember, and Saam's still one of the most unique dining experiences in LA to be sure. This is the type of place that should be on your bucket list.

Atelier Crenn
3127 Fillmore St, San Francisco, CA 94123
415.440.0460
www.ateliercrenn.com
Fri 08/23/2013, 08:10p-01:10a

My first meal at Dominique Crenn's self-titled eatery--not too long after the place opened--was quite the experience to behold, arguably my best meal of 2011. At the end of that dinner, I predicted Michelin stars for the restaurant, and, not surprisingly, that prognostication came to fruition in 2012 when Crenn got the deuce. Given the strength of my last meal, I was curious to pay Atelier another visit, to see how the place had progressed in the intervening years.

Atelier Crenn's menu format has changed slightly since my last visit. There's now a Signature Menu at $95 along with a ~14 course Chef's Grand Tasting Menu at $180 (the one you want to get), plus $150 a head for wine pairings from Sommelier Ian Burrows. Click for a larger version.

Engelen Tarwe / Teufelweizen / Special Belge

Engelen Tarwe / Teufelweizen / Special Belge

Before the meal, we enjoyed all three beers on Crenn's list. First was the Divine Brewing Co. 'Engelen Tarwe' Triple Ale, Sonoma, California [$10], a slightly skunky, spicy, sour-ish ale with a soft undercurrent of fruit. Its sister beer, the Divine Brewing Co. 'Teufelweizen' Bock-Style Ale, Sonoma, California [$10], showed off a ridiculous amount of head (see photo), and was even better, with a smooth, dark, roasty, chocolate-y character to it that I quite liked. Finally, we sampled the De Ryck 'Special Belge', Belgium [$7], a steely, crisp, dry ale with a pleasant yeasty quality and just a touch of hop bitterness.

1: Kir Breton[Summer has come with its warm breeze]
We commenced with Crenn's signature amuse bouche, a reimagined take on the classic Kir Breton. Apple cider arrived encased in a crème de cassis-topped sphere of white chocolate and cocoa butter, the shell disintegrating near-instantly upon contact with the tongue, unleashing torrents of tart apple flavors that then transitioned to the sugary sweetness of the chocolate. Fun, as well as effective, a great harbinger of things to come.

Oysterleaf

Oyster leaves were zesty little jolts to the palate, really recalling the essence of its namesake bivalve and thus setting the stage wonderfully for our next course...

2: Uni, Caviar, Licorice[Mellow serenades of colors licorice, nature and orange]
Riesling Kabinett 2011, Zilliken 'Rausch', Mosel Valley
...And what a course! Sea urchin torchon was paired with caviar and licorice root, then enveloped in yuzu bubbles. The tang of the citrus was strong on the nose, but transitioned seamlessly to the rich brine of the uni and salty kick of the roe, all while licorice added an almost ethereal spiciness to the dish.

In lieu of bread service, we were instead presented charred buckwheat crackers, smoky and crunchy to the bite.

3: Squid, Iberico, Lardo[Where the broad ocean leans against the Spanish land.]
Gruner Veltliner 2011, Hirsch 'Heiligenstein', Kamptal
Noodles of Japanese squid were fantastic, supple to the bite and mild, but beautifully augmented by the one-two punch of lardo and ibérico, an unabashedly salty, savory duo that melded wonderfully with the heady, integrating truffle broth. One of the highlights of the dinner for me, and a perfect pairing to the accompanying Grüner Veltliner, which itself showed off some delightfully earthy, truffle-y notes as well. Awesome.

4: Shima Aji, Coconut, Cilantro[A gentle smell, oceanic, of yummy feeling]
Sake, Wakatake 'Demon Slayer', Shizuoko
Cured shima aji was another winner, and quite possibly the best rendition of the ingredient I've ever experienced. The fish alone was uncompromisingly clean, delicate, with a subtle brine that went perfectly with the bright cilantro and coconut flavors present--think a distinctly Southeast Asian tinge accented by just a smidge of pepper-y heat. What took this over the top, though, were the tempura'd veggies, which imparted a fantastic savoriness and crunch to the dish that just brought everything together gorgeously. Lovely pairing here too with the Onigoroshi, a smooth, viscous junmai daiginjo with delicious floral-fruity notes on the nose and a creeping bit of alcoholic burn on the back end.

5: Shellfish, Sweetbreads, Phytoplankton[Sitting on top of the dune, feeling of beach sand under my toes]
Chardonnay 2010, Failla 'Estate', Sonoma Coast
This bisque-like potage was another homage to the flavors of Brittany, a part of France that the Chef visited often as a child. It was a mélange of razor clam, Manila clam, pork belly, sweetbreads, and bone marrow dumplings, all accompanied by sea grapes, plankton gel, and a tomato water air. I found it a masterful presentation of the clams' multifaceted brine, paired in genius fashion with the heady, earthy nuances from the offal, while the seaweed offered up a tempering crunch. Hearty and cozy, a great complement to the rich, buttery, grassy Chard that came with.

6: Charred Onion Soup, Comte, Truffle[The half moon, silky and smoky]
Oloroso VORS 1/14, El Maestro Sierra, Jerez
Next up was Crenn's take on the ubiquitous French onion soup. It was classic in essence, with the sweetness of the onion marmalade working hand-in-hand with the Comté dumpling and the slightly smoky notes present, all while an apple cider vinaigrette provided an overarching tartness to the dish that really tied everything together. I was especially fond of the bright, herb-y nuances in the dish, and the paired brioche made for a fitting accoutrement, too.

7: Rhubarb & Ash[Woody and stone]
Here was another whimsical course, sort of a palate cleanser after the intensity of the preceding dishes. We had here a liquid fennel and citrus consommé encased in a stone-like shell, a sweet, tangy explosion of flavors imbued with just a hint of medicinal twang. Sitting below the "rocks" were thin chips that recalled candied ginger.

8: Grains & Seeds, Sturgeon, Dashi[Nature rejoice, chasing childhood memories]
Gewurztraminer, Arista 'Ferrington', Anderson Valley, California
Humble ingredients were the star of the show here--flax seeds, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, quinoa--but they were presented in simply amazing fashion. They were either toasted, roasted, smoked, or fried, and accompanied by trout roe, white sturgeon roe cream, and yuzukosho, all set in a dashi broth. There was just such an incredible depth and profoundness to the seeds, their earthy, nutty savors perfectly balanced by the blasts of salinity from the sturgeon and trout, while herbaceous whispers added a modicum of lightness to the mix. The flavors here were wonderful, but taken with the fantastic textural interplay and hot-cold contrasts in the dish, we have here my favorite course of the night, and quite possibly the best thing I've eaten all year.

9: Fermented Wagyu, Broccoli, Egg Yolk[Wrapped in a yellow blanket]
Cabernet Franc 2012, Lieu Dit, Santa Ynez Valley
Crenn's riff on steak tartar didn't quite reach the lofty heights of the preceding course, but was still one of the strongest preparations of the dish I've had. Wagyu was commingled with sesame and broccoli fermented in sake lees, then rolled in an egg yolk sheet and garnished with a scallion salad. Taken alone, the beef showed off a superb spiciness and earthy depth, with a lovely touch of pepper on the finish. What really made this for me, however, was the scallion, which imparted just a wonderful, offsetting astringency to things that served as the exclamation point. I found this very nice with the paired wine--a bright, perfume-y, utterly vivacious Cab Franc--as well.

10: Mushroom, Pine, Pumpernickel[Walking deep in the woods, as the earth might have something to spare]
Pinot Noir 2007, JK Carriere, Willamette Valley
Arguably the most popular dish at Atelier Crenn, we had here an amalgam of roasted, pickled, and dehydrated mushrooms, Douglas pine meringue, wood sorrel oil, sage, and hazelnut praline, all dusted with pumpernickel-brioche crumbs. It was a complex, multi-angled exploration of earthy, woody flavors, played against the countervailing sweet and bitter thrusts present, with the pine serving as the overarching, integrating force in the dish.

They Have Wood

I noticed that the table beside us was given a superior presentation of the preceding dish, replete with logs in place of the generic plates. That's too bad.

11: Duck, Chocolate, Corn[Birth which gives its morning mystery.]
Brachetto 2012, Sottimano 'Maté', Piedmont
Next was perhaps the most high-concept plate of the evening. We had what I believe was a duck liver pâté underneath a "nest" of corn silk, with puffed rice, pear, apple, vanilla, and finished with porcini-dusted chocolate "twigs," all with a cup of canard consommé on the side. It was a real celebration of duck, with the earthy essence of the bird pairing surprisingly well with its various accoutrements, the sugariness of the chocolate working particularly well as a foil. A bit cerebral, and perfectly washed down by the incredible depth of that consommé.

12: Squab, Summer Squash, Red Currant[Where birds sing and are causing ripples in the nearby water]
Mourvedre Blend 2006, Gros Noré, Bandol
Our final savory course of the evening gave us a smoked-seared squab with squash, mustard, rose, hibiscus, and currant. The bird was as delicious as it looked, with a mouth-watering salt and savor to it that was duly brightened by the crunchy bits of squash here, all while the rose-hibiscus-currant combo imparted a wonderful floral-fruity component to the dish. Excellent counterpoint from the mustard, too.

'Salad'

13: "Salad"[Dotting the fragrant flora]
Traditionally, a salad serves as an intermezzo before dessert in a formal French meal, so we were presented a sort of a deconstructed version here, combining various herbs and flowers in a vinaigrette-Banyuls-olive oil dressing. The bite was sweet, tangy, with a strong celery component, though it didn't quite click for me.

Atelier Crenn Cheese Selection

We opted for a cheese course, which turned out to be a surprisingly pricey proposition at $12.50 per slice. The fromages themselves were spot on, though. We had: Petit Pardou, a four-month-aged Pyrenean varietal; the mild Catalonian goat's milk favorite Garrotxa; the peppery Montenebro, my favorite of the bunch; a delightfully mushroom-y Tomme de Crayeuse; a tangy sheep's milk cheese that I didn't catch the name of; a classically sharp Bleu d'Auvergne; and finally an herby Basque cheese which I don't recall the name of either. Accompaniments were a wild flower honey and chickpea crackers, and we also enjoyed glasses of the Marsala Superiore - DeBartoli 'La Vigna Miccia' [$18] to go along.

Our first pre-dessert was almost verging on Alinea-esque, comprising a test tube of guava consommé, chia, shiso, and finger lime, along with a tab of lemongrass-infused sugarcane. Think fun and fruity, with bursts of tartness from the finger lime vesicles to go along with the sheer sweetness of the cane.

Eucalyptus Pops

Next were Crenn's trademark eucalyptus ice cream pops, this time incorporating menthol. They were even more bracing, more refreshing than before, with an herby sweetness at first giving way to a cool, minty astringency toward the finish.

14: Grape, Hazelnut[Summer has come and is full of sweet surprises]
Jurançon, Möelleux 2011, Clos Uroulat, Gascony
Set in a custom made bisected wine bottle was our main dessert, courtesy of Chef Patissier Juan Contreras. It contained hazelnut ice cream encased in grape skin, Port foam, fresh grape, and baguette with sultanas, all drizzled with saba syrup that was cleverly hidden in a faux cork. The dish served as an exploration of the many faces of grape, and when taken with the hazelnut, made for a tasting experience that was sort of like a cross between a PB&J and a Ferrero Rocher, with a palpable vinous quality to it. I would've liked a bit less bittersweetness here though, so that more of the fruity aspects of the grape could've shown through.

Finally, mignardises arrived in a rather striking serving vessel (replete with moss garden), and consisted of Maldon sea salt caramels, passion fruit marshmallows, strawberry-pink peppercorn pâtes de fruits, almond-pistachio nougats, coffee-milk chocolate ganache "berries" (my favorite), and sesame-chocolate crisps.

Once again, Atelier Crenn is poised to be one of the very top meals of the year, no doubt serving up some of my best bites of 2013. It's obvious that Crenn has grown even more as a chef, with her food coming across as less explicitly "artsy," but just and complex and high-concept. Even better, the cooking's bolder, more confident, while flavors tend toward more intense, more strident, and more focused in general. There really are some great things going in the kitchen here these days, so that next macaron doesn't seem that far out of reach now.

Benu Restaurant
22 Hawthorne St, San Francisco, CA 94105
415.685.4860
www.benusf.com
Sat 08/24/2013, 08:40p-11:30p

Benu Exterior

My dinner at Chef Corey Lee's groundbreaking Benu last year was memorable for two reasons. First, it was arguably my best meal of 2012; and second, it marked the only occasion where I'd forgotten to bring my camera's memory card(!). Given the strength of my experience here, I couldn't let the blog stand with those subpar cell phone pics, so a revisit was in order to give the food its proper due.

Benu's sole menu option this evening was a 17-course degustation priced at $180 per head, plus $150 for the always-superb beverage pairings of Head Sommelier Yoon Ha. Click for larger versions.

1: thousand-year-old quail egg, potage, ginger
prager, grüner veltliner, federspiel, hinter der burg, wachau, austria 2011
We commenced with a course that looked humble, but was anything but. The egg itself was pretty fantastic, a spot on homage to the traditional delicacy, and went superbly with the included potage of bacon, cabbage, and cream, a hearty, comforting liquid that added a bit of heft to the surprising lightness of the pidan. The key here, though, was the use of the traditional accompaniment of ginger, which imparted a brightness that just lifted the entire dish.

2: oyster, pork belly, kimchi
prager, grüner veltliner, federspiel, hinter der burg, wachau, austria 2011
A singular Beau Soleil showed off a masterful interplay between two complementary facets of richness between the belly and the oyster, but with the bivalve always managing to shine through despite the heft of the pork. I also really appreciated the hint of kimchi spice toward the back end, too. A great little bite.

3: salmon roe, eggplant, buckwheat, perilla
matsuura, narutotai, namagenshu ginjo, tokushima, japan
Buckwheat was used to great effect here, imparting a tempering crunch to the smoky, salty combo of ikura and eggplant, while the perilla added well-placed pricks of mintiness to the fray. A harmony of disparate textures and tastes, and one that was particularly apt against the bright, racy flavors of the accompanying namazake.

4: anchovy, celery, peanut
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
Next, we began a procession of four little courses, all presented on the same transparent serving piece and paired with Hitachino's always-satisfying, somewhat-funky Red Rice Ale. The caramelized anchovy was fantastic, capturing the essence of the traditional snack and showing off a deft blend of sweet and fishy flavors that were dutifully moderated by a hit of celery zing, all while the peanut served as the perfect nutty finish.

5: faux shark's fin, dungeness crab, caviar, rousong
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
Chef Lee's famous faux shark's fin soup is off the menu (for now), but the main ingredient was put to good use here. Texturally, the "fin" was fantastic, adding a springy component to the growing intensity of flavors in the course, the sweetness of the crab masterfully offset by the subtle undercurrent of rousong savor.

'xo sausage' with basil curd

6: "xo sausage" with basil curd
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
I was tempted to go Alinea-style here and eat this hands-free, but wisely decided not to. The sausage, enhanced with the qualities of the legendary XO, conveyed a very pleasing depth and savor to it, one that paired just swimmingly with the creamy, herby nuances provided by the basil.

7: acorn beggar's purse with black truffle
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
The last of the foursome was Benu's ode to the signature dish of 80's NYC hotspot Quilted Giraffe. Their beggar's purse came with crème fraîche and caviar, and was itself a riff on the French treat aumonieres. This version might've been even more luxurious: unabashedly savory, lush, and creamy on the palate, with a subtle, yet always apparent overtone of truffle that lasted long on the palate.

multigrain bread, ginseng honey butter

Bread, of course, was also something to behold. The multigrain variety here was wonderfully nutty, smoky even, with a delightfully crisp crust to it. However, the real star was that ginseng-honey butter, which married the zesty notes of the root with a fantastically lush sweetness that just paired with the bread beautifully.

8: almond tofu, green apple, chia seed
Our next course functioned as a sort of intermezzo, its bright, juicy flavors, herbaceous zing, and apple-y crunch providing a bit of a respite from the hefty flavors that we'd been experiencing.

9: cold noodles, pickled hearts of palm, shrimp roe, mint
von hövel, riesling kabinett, sharzhofberger, mosel, germany 2008
Pairing in stellar fashion with the vibrant acidity of the Kabinett Riesling were some of the best cold noodles I've encountered. I loved the umami-rich base of the dish, courtesy of the shrimp, a focused, almost profound thrust of ocean-y goodness that was keenly countered by the light, delicate flavors of the noodles and palm. Even better? The pin pricks of piquancy that were enabled by the use of ginger and mint. I wouldn't have minded going through a big bowl of the stuff!

10: lobster coral xiao long bao
duchesse de bourgogne, flemish red brown ale, belgium
Next, we come to what has become perhaps Lee's most well-known dish, a masterful homage to the humble xiaolongbao. It was just so utterly, ridiculously xiang, an umami explosion (both literally and figuratively) with an incredible depth to it that satisfies in the basest ways possible. I'm not sure if I liked 'em with or without the vinegar (a wonderful foil to the paired Duchesse, by the way), but no matter, I'd love to demolish a whole bamboo basket of these beauties.

11: pig's head with lentil hozön and bönji
duchesse de bourgogne, flemish red brown ale, belgium
Also fantastic with the Duchesse was this schmancy souse, its stupendously porcine quality joined by countervailing hits of ferment-y, tangy, and sweet flavors, the result of the hozon and bonji now being produced by Momofuku frontman David Chang. Perhaps the best head cheese I've ever had.

12: whiting, crispy mushroom, haiga rice, burdock, charred scallion
cuilleron, marsanne, les vignes d'á côté, rhône, france 2012
The whiting, surprisingly, just might've been my favorite course of the evening. The thing that struck me most about the fish was its texture, which I'd describe as firm, but springy, with an almost gelatinous quality to it that I found immensely satisfying. On the palate, it was delicate, nuanced, and really took on the mouthwateringly savory flavors of the accompanying rice, while the scallion added a fantastic jolt of smoke and astringency to the mix. And those mushrooms? Some of the best I've had--perfect.

13a: roast quail, lettuce heart, mustard
cristom, pinot noir, sommer's reserve, willamette valley, oregon 2011
Getting into the more substantial courses now, quail was roasted beautifully, showing off two distinct, yet complementary facets of the bird in flawlessly done breast and leg presentations. Adding to this was a subtle undertone of sweetness that worked out really well, emphasizing the savory qualities of the quail, while the lettuce imparted a fantastically light, charred, counterbalancing quality to the dish. Delish.

Kippin dried abalone

13b: 25 head Kippin abalone from Iwate, 2008, potato purée, tender kale, braising jus [$230 supplement]
el maestro sierra, oloroso sherry, jerez, spain
In place of the quail, diners also had the option of Kippin abalone from Japan's Iwate prefecture, oft considered some of the best in the world. Priced at $230 a pop, it was costlier than the entire rest of the menu, and quite easily the most expensive single dish I've had. The awabi was of the 2008 vintage, and was prepared by braising in a stock of chicken feet and pork neck for 18 hours. The result of all this was the best cooked abalone I've had--meaty and a bit gelatinous to the bite, with a great growing depth and complexity to it that was tempered in part by the potato and greens present. Also of note here was the wine pairing, with the Oloroso coming to us nutty and oxidative, and also super dry on the palate. What was interesting was how the Sherry seemed to become sweeter upon being paired with the mollusk.

14: beef braised in pear juice and charcoal-grilled, lily bulb, sunflower, fermented pepper
clos st. jean, châteauneuf-du-pape, rhône, france 2008
Next, Brandt beef was braised overnight, resulting in a dish that one of my dining companions likened to an "elevated galbi." Texturally, the meat was tender, but not mushy, with still some structure to it, while its dark, bovine flavors worked faultlessly with the sweet-ish sauce and the whisper of spice toward the back end. The lily bulb served to balance out the sheer heft of the meat, and what I liked even more was the use of sunflower seed, which acted as a fantastic accent piece with its nuttiness and crunch.

15: shellfish consommé and raft, Jinhua ham, chrysanthemum
blandy's, verdelho, madeira, portugal 1968
Benu's famed "shark's fin soup" may be off the menu now, but its rather profound broth was put to good use here, serving as a complement to the intensely ocean-y, briny flavors of the shellfish, while the whole shebang concluded with a delightfully peppery tint on the close. The wine pairing here was spot on too, the '68 Madeira conveying a surprisingly youthful exuberance with its trademark oxidative, nutty, and raisin-y qualities.

16: sake lees sherbet, strawberry, yuzu
The sweet stuff at Benu is now the charge of new Pastry Chef Courtney Schmidig, who comes to the restaurant from The French Laundry and replaces Christopher Bleidorn (who went to Atelier Crenn). She got off to a strong start here with this deceptively simple dessert. I adored how the funky, earthy, yet saccharine notes of the kasu was conveyed, set against the sweetness of strawberry with just a smidge of yuzu tang on the midpalate.

17: sesame white cake with salted plum
uroulat, jurançon, southwest france 2011
Let's just say that we were all a bit shocked when an honest-to-goodness, old-school cake was placed on the table for our main dessert. It was a bit dissonant given the hypermodern aesthetic at Benu, but the contrast was pure genius, and we all appreciated the communal aspect here, of slicing and serving the cake to each other "family style." Concept aside, the cake was pretty damn good. The plum, however, really took it to the next level, imparting a salty/sour component that really worked wonders with the sweetness here. I'd love this in a larger size as a birthday cake!

Once again, Benu managed to impress, delivering a virtually flawless meal that showcased Chef Lee's deft hand in marrying his contemporary leanings with Asia's vast culinary playbook. The food effectively conveys and honors those traditions, but never verges on trite or contrived, utilizing just the right amount of modernist flair in the process. At the same time, deliciousness was never compromised, and the comforting, cozy flavors that one expects are present in all their glory, with only occasional dalliances in the overtly cerebral. And, as expected, beverage pairings were spot on as well, really linking up with the cooking in creative and effective ways. The Benu team is doing some great work here, and I'm looking forward to see where they all take this. Time for three stars?

Go's Mart Sushi
22330 Sherman Way, Los Angeles, CA 91303
818.704.1459
Sun 08/25/2013, 04:30p-07:25p

Go's Mart Exterior

One of LA's best, and certainly most unique sushi joints is also one of the most out-of-the-way. I'd first visited Go's Mart way back in 2007 after coming down from a dinner at The French Laundry. Despite the strength of that experience, I'd stayed away all this time due to the considerable drive out to Canoga, and as a result, our meal here once again came on the back of another Bay Area trip.

An interesting note is that the VHS video rental aspect of Go's seems to be no longer, unsurprisingly given the advent of DVD, Blu-ray, and video-on-demand. However, Go-san's right-hand man Oscar is still at it here after 14 years (keep in mind that the placed opened circa 1997), though his other assistant Lino has seemingly been let go, replaced by a young guy named Tomás.

As far as Go's Mart's menu is concerned, the standard selections are fairly mundane, so clearly the way to go is to sit at the counter and order the omakase, drawn largely from the specials board and totaling $171.50 a head this evening. To drink, think an unremarkable selection of sake and beer (though I hear there's no corkage...). And yes, the check was presented on a Post-it note (charming). Click for a larger version.

Kikusui Junmai Ginjo sake

Speaking of sake, we began with a bottle of the Kikusui Junmai Ginjo [$35], a commonplace, but very approachable brew that was viscous in consistency, with a strong melon character over a base of koji notes and a trace of alcoholic burn.

1: Salmon & Cucumber
Our first course brought together cucumber, sesame, and smoked salmon in commendable fashion, the heady, hefty flavors of the fish balanced by the bright, crunchy veggie, all while the sesame imparted a lovely nuttiness that overarched the entire dish.

Suzuki

2a: Suzuki [$7.00]
We moved right into the nigiri with this foursome. Sea bass was delightful, silky in texture, with a delicate taste that melded seamlessly with the truffle and lemon notes present, all while the back end was awash in the clean, minty essence of shiso.

2b: Kinmedai [$7.00]
The golden eye snapper (a.k.a. splendid alfonsino) was even better, with a meatier consistency and a more assertive flavor profile. Delish, and my favorite of the four here.

2c: Managatsuo [$8.00]
Butterfish was, as the name would imply, the lushest of the bunch, with a nice citrus counterpoint and a strong kick of wasabi on the finish.

2d: Kanpachi [$6.00]
Finally, the amberjack was the firmest, the crunchiest of the quartet, with the sweetest flesh and a subtle bit of shiso brightness toward the end.

3a: Kuromaguro [$3.00]
Next, we were presented a trio of different tuna preparations. First was the blue fin, a great preparation of the sushi staple with a good depth to it and a smart hit of garlic on the midpalate, while its finish was all about that wasabi burn.

3b: Kawagishi Toro
Here was a version of toro that I've only encountered here at Go's. Its basically tuna flesh that's scraped from the bone, resulting in a sort of paste-like consistency with no sinew at all--chewing wasn't even required. Mixed with soy sauce, it was rich and dark, with the crunch and astringency of the onion serving as a fitting foil.

Toro

3c: Toro [$10.00]
The toro proper was of medium fattiness, undeniably tasty with a bit of chew to it and a nice wasabi element to balance things out.

Ebi

4a: Ebi [$8.50]
One the standouts for me was the blue shrimp, which arrived wonderfully snappy in texture, with a superb char character and salty kick from the caviar that went along beautifully with the savory-sweet flavors of the shrimp. Nice bit of wasabi zing here, too.

4b: Tarabagani [$10.00]
King crab was spot on: tender, sweet, and cool, with just a whisper of truffle goodness that paired in stellar fashion with the lingering salinity of the crustacean.

4c: Zuwaigani [$8.00]
Snow crab was similarly on point, arriving juicy and sweet, with a delightful consistency to it and a great touch of wasabi to focus the flavors.

Uni

4d: Uni [$6.00]
Go-san humorously referred to this as "Santa Barbara peanut butter," and he wasn't far off the mark with that description. It was a delectable presentation of uni, its creamy, sweet nature on proud display against the subtle truffle nuances in the course, all while salt added pleasing jolts of saline goodness on the palate.

5: Shrimp Head
The head of the shrimp above was then presented to us in fried form, a crispy, crunchy, utterly delicious course that showed off an almost instant ramen-like savor to it.

Aji

6a: Aji [$7.00]
Next, a duet of oily fish. Spanish mackerel was a shining example of the style, light and bright, with a growing fishiness along with an apparent sweetness from the goji berry.

Saba

6b: Saba [$6.00]
Meanwhile, the saba mackerel was much fuller flavored, and firmer in body, with a long, lingering brine offset by the use of ginger.

7a: Benizake
Sockeye was our first of two salmons, and was pretty amazing, with a great interplay between the truffle and the inherent fattiness of the fish, all while salt and wasabi added further points of interest to the course.

7b: Sake no Kunsei
Smoked king salmon was also to my liking, its woody, hammy savor working flawlessly with the moderating bitterness of the onion.

Ikura

8: Ikura [$8.00]
Ikura was smooth and buttery, probably the lushest presentation I've had of the roe, but also showed off a smoky, saline character as well.

Mirugai

9a: Mirugai [$6.00]
Seared geoduck was lovely, with a great mix of crunchy yet supple textures and a focused brine that was dutifully offset by the burn of wasabi.

Awabi

9b: Awabi [$5.00]
Baby abalone was great texturally, with a supple, yet satisfying bite to it and a veil of truffle-y flavors that made this one of the most unique presentations of awabi sushi I've had.

Ankimo

10: Ankimo [$5.00]
Go-san's monkfish liver was some of the most approachable I'd ever encountered, with a tangy sweetness initially that lead smoothly to the creamy, liver-y notes toward the finish.

Anago

11a: Anago [$6.50]
Sea eel was deep and dark, with a commixture of sweet and savory flavors that just worked.

Unagi

11b: Unagi [$6.50]
The freshwater eel, on the other hand, was fattier, more luxurious, with a crispiness to it and a palpable, citrus-y, offsetting tang.

12: Watarigani no Temaki [$9.00]
The requisite blue crab hand roll was just as sweet, cool, and creamy as you'd expect, but with the added benefit of truffle, which added an almost intoxicating overtone to the course.

Okoze

Supplement: Okoze [$7.00]
At this point, the set omakase was pretty much over, so we ordered a couple more courses to round things out. First was the okoze, which I'd actually never encountered before. Go-san called it a sculpin, though stonefish appears to be the more common translation. In any case, it was really quite nice, wonderful texturally with a subtle sweetness that paired well with the lemon-y and yuzukosho notes present.

Supplement: Seki Aji [$7.00]
Seki aji's a special brand of the fish caught only from Japan's Bungo Channel, and is a real treat at sushi restaurants. The mackerel was light and delicate on the palate, with a tempering brightness from the shiso and a nice bit of wolfberry sweetness. It tasted pretty similar to the aji above, though.

Supplement: Hirame no Kobujime [$5.00]
Our last fish was a kelp-treated flounder done in the kobujime style. The result of the process was a denser, more complex tasting fish, one that went just swimmingly with salty-spicy flavors of the yuzukosho here.

'Holy Cow'

Supplement: "Holy Cow" [$10.00]
We ended our savories with some beef sushi, which was as tasty and savory as you'd expect, with a fantastic lingering spice to it. However, I really would've preferred the meat rarer, so that I could've better appreciated it texturally.

13: Fruit Plate
Dessert comprised a simple plate of fruit, a sweet, refreshing close to the evening.

This meal really was a reminder of how good Go's can be. Certainly, the Chef's liberal use of truffle, salt, citrus, shiso, and other accoutrements may not be for everybody. Some may complain about authenticity even. Sure, I get it. I appreciate having the fish stand alone just as much as anyone else, but the little flourishes here really make the sushi some of the most interesting around, and really point toward Go-san's unorthodox, irreverent style. That's really what makes the place special, and one of the real gems of the SFV. Sushi fiends, Go's needs to be on your bucket list.

Salt Air Restaurant
1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291
310.396.9333
www.saltairvenice.com
Thu 09/05/2013, 08:00p-11:20p

Salt Air Exterior

Back a few years ago, 1616 Abbot Kinney was home to Capri, an Italian spot that was, by all accounts, pretty horrible. However, the address was brought back to life in December 2011 with the opening of Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga's much-lauded Wolf in Sheep's Clothing pop-up. The two eventually launched The Hart and The Hunter, leaving the space in the hands of Kevin Kathman's AK Supper Club (interestingly, Kathman would go on to helm the second incarnation of WiSC at Lilly's), and then Benadicto Gell's Cal-Dominican Mangu. All this time, though, the building was actually under the control of Dave Reiss, whom you might know from A-Frame, Sunny Spot, and littlefork. He had plans all along to rework the location into a new concept, and finally partnered with Carol Ann and Moise Emquies to debut Salt Air on June 21st this year.

Running the kitchen here is New Yorker Greg A. Daniels, not to be confused with Greg Daniels of Haven Gastropub fame. The Buffalo area native began his culinary career at Frosty's, his family's ice cream shop, then attended the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan. Following graduation, he cooked at Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Perry St, working his way up to an executive sous chef position. Daniels was slated to move to Vongerichten's eponymous flagship eatery, but instead ended up relocating to Los Angeles to be with his girlfriend, so here we are.

As far as Salt Air's menu goes, it's a blend of familiar seafood classics as well as some more unconventional dishes such as the oft-talked about fish skin chips. To drink, you'll find cocktails from Brian Butler (though note that there's no full bar here), as well as a pretty nice selection of beers, wines, and even non-alcoholic libations. Click for larger versions.

Tonic

Tonic [$11.00] | bonal, lemongrass, ginger, tonic
Shandy [$11.00] | sour beer, passionfruit, honey, lemon
Naturally, we had to try all the cocktails on the menu, and first up was the Tonic. Based on Bonal, the drink conveyed a sort of herby, medicinal, but soft bittersweetness to it that went nicely with the ginger-y notes present. The Shandy, meanwhile, incorporated gueuze, giving it a great tart, funky, acidic quality with just a whisper of countervailing sweetness--nice!

Oysters

Oysters [$26.00/full dozen] | east and west coast oysters, mignonette, cocktail sauce, horseradish, hot sauce, lemon
Oysters were a natural beginning to the meal, with three varieties on offer. First were the Sweet Petites from Martha's Vineyard (the Chef's favorite), which I found surprisingly full-flavored, with a particularly briny finish laced with just a modicum of sweetness. Even more intense were the Sunberry Points from Prince Edward Island (my first time with 'em), while the Wellfleets were the heftiest and largest of the trio, with the most pronounced salinity.

Grilled Octopus [$14.00] | beluga lentils, pickled onion, chorizo
I do love my octopus, and Salt Air's was a prime presentation of the cephalopod. It was beautifully prepared, coming out tender, yet substantial, with a subtle sweetness and a great char bitterness to it. What made this dish for me, though, were the accompaniments, the onions adding a tanginess on the back end, while the chorizo contributed an underlying heat to things. I appreciated the lentils here as well, which imparted an earthy, weighty quality that grounded the course. A table favorite, and one of the best octopus dishes I've had in a while.

Pea Toast [$11.00] | ricotta, pea leaves, caramelized onions
Pea toast is probably something you want to order, with its creamy sweetness (courtesy of the ricotta-onion combo) lending a lushness to the dish that was gorgeously balanced by the brightness of the peas.

Cobbler

Cobbler [$11.00] | peychaud bitters, carpano, hibiscus, lemon, orange
High Ball [$11.00] | cardamaro, lime, house ginger beer, forbidden bitters
Time for more cocktails. The Cobbler was a great rendition of the old-school drink, with a rich base of sweet spice joined by a bevy of delectably tart, fruity flavors. I also really enjoyed the High Ball, with its refreshing, ginger-y base playing off of the aromatic, cinnamon-y nuances from the bitters and the slightly oxidative quality of the amaro.

Fish Skin Chips [$6.00] | smoked onion dip, harissa
Next, we come to perhaps the most bandied-about item on Salt Air's menu: the baked-fried salmon skins. They were salty and briny, sort of like what you'd imagine a fish chicharrón to be like, but with a very delicate consistency. I quite liked the chips on their own, but the harissa and smoky/sweet onion dip had their place, too.

Lobster Roll [$20.00] | connecticut style, scallion, corn relish, potato chips
I don't know if the lobster roll is the new ahi tuna tartar or what, but it seems to be popping up on menus left and right these days. Salt Air's hot rendition is certainly worthy of consideration, with the crustacean arriving warm, utterly buttery, and almost uncommonly sweet--its sugary character only bolstered by the inclusion of corn--while the scallion served to temper the dish (just a bit). And the potato crisps? Salty and spot on.

Fried Oysters [$13.00] | pretzel crusted, frisee, miso mustard
I've had fried oysters before, but never like this. They come coated in pretzel bits, making for a fun, unabashedly crunchy eating experience that did a great job recalling the classic combo of pretzels and mustard. Definitely give these a shot.

Spritz

Spritz [$11.00] | cocchi americano, dolin blanc, grapefruit bitters, prosecco
Sour [$11.00] | byrrh, punt e mes, strawberry, lemon, demerara
Our third round of cocktails started with the Spritz, a bubbly, citrus-y concoction with a great hit of light, herbaceous, refreshing bitterness from the Cocchi and Dolin. The Sour, on the other hand, was akin to a boozy strawberry juice, with the sugariness of the fruit deftly played against the complexity of Byrrh and vermouth.

House Salad [$8.00] | little gem, endive, avocado, radish, fines herbes, mustard vinaigrette
The generically-named House Salad wasn't much to look at, but the flavors were on point. All the elements actually came together really nicely here--a mélange of textures and tastes, expertly tied together by that tangy dressing.

Carrot & Fennel Salad [$9.00] | kale, quinoa, basil vinaigrette
Our next salad was a bit more ambitious, but not quite as successful. Carrots imparted a pleasant sweetness and crunch to the course, and the kale made sense too, but the quinoa was just a tad discordant, distracting even at times. There were also inedible parts (twigs and whatnot) in the salad, which were vexing.

Olive Oil Poached Salmon [$21.00] | heirloom shelling beans, shishito peppers
At this point, we moved into the mains, specifically the poached salmon. It was a perfect presentation of the fish, the filet coming out still slightly rare and beautifully flaky, with a hint of fattiness to it that went swimmingly with its lush, ocean-y flavors, countered just barely by the bright nuances of the herbs and veggies. If that wasn't enough, I also appreciated the slight tinge of heat from the shishitos, as well as how the beans added a noticeable, moderating heft to the dish. A highlight of the meal for sure.

Whole Fish [$39.00] | fried red snapper
No doubt, the pièce de résistance this evening was the whole snapper, which was coated in flour, fried, garnished with pickled Fresno peppers and scallion, then filleted at the table by our server. It really was one of the tastiest tais I've had, the fish coming out juicy and flavorful, with a delightfully crisp skin and a palpable Asian-y tint to it.

Tiki

Tiki [$11.00] | angostura bitters, rosa americano, orgeat, lime, pineapple
Our final drink was the Tiki, which, as the name implies, conveyed the tropically sweet, spicy flavors that you'd expect, all over a great base of Cocchi Americano Rosa. Splendid.

Chocolate Cake [$8.00]
Moving on to dessert now, the requisite chocolate cake was nothing to sneeze at, with the richness of the cake nicely balanced by countervailing thrusts of bitterness and smoke.

Peach Cream Poundcake [$8.00]
I was quite fond of the poundcake, which I found surprisingly light, with its subtle sweetness pairing well with the juicy notes of the peach, all while the cream added a great touch of levity to the fray. Beautifully balanced and integrated.

Monkey Bread [$8.00]
We ended with Salt Air's signature dessert, the Monkey Bread. It was as sticky and sweet as it looked, with a caramel-y, cinnamon-y quality to it joined by just a bit of savory flair from the nuts. A must try.

Sure, it would've been nice if WiSC stuck around, but I'm quite happy with its eventual replacement. Daniels' cooking really livens up the area's dining scene I think. He brings a blend of the familiar and the new, effectively taking the skills he acquired under Jean-Georges and translating them to fit the aesthetics of an eclectic seafood joint. It's a combination that works well for me, and, combined with the commendable cocktails (which give the liquorless concoctions at Scratch|Bar a run for their money), makes for a great new dining option on Abbot Kinney.

EMC Seafood & Raw Bar
3500 W 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90020
213.351.9988
www.emcseafood.com
Thu 09/12/2013, 07:45p-10:55p

The latest sensation to hit K-Town follows in the footsteps of the numerous seafood-centric eateries that have debuted in recent times (I'm looking at you Littlefork, Fishing with Dynamite, Connie & Ted's, Salt Air, and the new Water Grill). Yes, EMC takes over the site of the old Maitreya in the City Center on 6th complex, and is the product of partners Ellis Choi, brothers Marcus and Michael Kwan, and Charles Hung Jr., hence the name (think about it). The place debuted in July, and has been making quite a name for itself since then, especially in the Asian-American community.

A bit of background: Ka Wai "Michael" Kwan and Ka Kue "Marcus" Kwan are the duo behind Le Ka and the various Wokcanos, as well as the lesser known Backhouse, Green Hut Cafe, and Bunker Hill Bar & Grill. Together with Merrill Lynch wealth manager Kerry Moy, they form the M2K Group (again with the acronyms). The Kwan brothers also run Qpack, a restaurant packaging company, and have had a hand in the ill-fated Tatou (Hell's Kitchen Season 1 winner Michael Wray's spot) and the unfortunately-named Wok on Fire. I will also have to note that this dinner ended up being comped. That wasn't the expectation going in (as I rarely attend such meals), but one of my dining companions was acquainted with some of the owners, so that's how it turned out.

EMC's menu features a smattering of expected entries from the tried-and-true seafood playbook, but with a distinctly Asian slant, not to mention a number of straight-up O.G. Asian dishes. Click for larger versions.

To drink, think classically-leaning cocktails by Andrew Parish, as well as the requisite beer and a surprisingly decent wine list. Click for larger versions.

Whilsner [$12.00] | Whiskey, Amaro Ciociaro, Lemon Juice, Lemon Essence, Pilsner
Old Fashioned [$14.00] | B&E Bourbon, Maraschino Liqueur, Angostura, & Orange Bitters
The Whilsner was a fantastic way to begin the evening, with its pleasantly bittersweet, herby flavors and citrus-y zing working beautifully with the Macallan 12, all while the nuances of the beer were delightfully fleeting. The barrel-aged Old Fashioned was another winner, a smart take on the classic drink with maraschino in place of sugar or simple syrup (more properly referred to as a "Fancy Free," as mentioned in the comment section). I found it very well balanced, with the slightly puckering qualities of the liqueur coming through toward the back end.

Naked Cowboy (Long Island, NY) [$19.00] | Served with Cocktail Sauce, Lime Jalapeño, & Horseradish
Oysters were a natural first course, and the Naked Cowboys fit the bill nicely, coming in relatively substantial to the bite, with a strong salinity and a particularly lingering, mineral-laced finish.

Crispy Garlic Brussels Sprouts [$6.00]
Given my penchant for Brussels sprouts, these were a must try, and did not disappoint, really showcasing the astringent, savory qualities of the vegetable along with a lovely Asian-y tinge courtesy of the sesame. Nice texture on 'em, too.

Lobster Roll - mini

Mini Lobster Roll [$8.00] | Tarragon Butter, Sea Salt, Brioche Bun
The lobster roll seems to be the de facto "gotta order" dish on seafood menu these days, and EMC's certainly made a case for itself. The crustacean arrived soft, springy, and very buttery, with a palpable sweetness to the flesh that worked hand-in-hand with the similar notes in the brioche. A nice take on the hot "Connecticut-style."

Black Pepper Beef Mignon [$14.00] | Chunks of Tender Beef Quick-Stirred with Onion in a Rich Roasted Black Pepper Sauce
Our sole meat course of the night recalled the "French style beef" that one finds at some Chinese places. I found it quite satisfying, with the tenderloin coming out tender and tasty, the peppery sauce serving as a fitting complement to the protein.

Uni Pasta [$18.00] | Cream, Fish Roe, Chives, Dried Seaweed
The über of-the-moment sea urchin pasta was nicely done here, the creamy, somewhat garlicky noodles dutifully enhanced by the lush, ocean-y sweetness of the uni, all while seaweed added further blasts of umami to the dish.

Whiskey Flip [$12.00] | Rye Whiskey, Byrrh Grand Quinquina, Orange Juice, Lemon Juice, Sugar, Egg
The Boulevardier [$14.00] | B&E Bourbon, Campari, Carpano Antica
Time for more cocktails. I quite liked the Whiskey Flip, finding it very well integrated and delightfully frothy, with the sweet-spicy character of the Byrrh melding perfectly with the citric qualities in the drink. Also worth trying was The Boulevardier, a barrel-aged take on the original that beautifully showcased the bittersweet nature of the Campari against the classic combo of Bourbon and sweet vermouth.

Tua Tua Clams (New Zealand) [$10.00] | Served with Cocktail Sauce, Lime Jalapeño, & Horseradish
Getting back to the raw bar, we had some tuatuas, which I'd actually never tried before. Compared to your typical clams, these were spongier, and more interesting texturally, with an intense salinity to them countered by a noticeable amount of sweetness as well.

Clams in Abalone Broth [$15.00] | Manila Clams, Taro Noodles, Green Onions & Cilantro
Next, we come to what was probably my favorite course of the dinner. The clams themselves were spot on--firm and briny--but what really took this over the top was the abalone stock here, which lent a penetrating savor to the dish that really amplified the bivalves' inherent qualities. Also key were the scallions and cilantro, both of which provided a fantastic jolt of brightness and verve that really lightened up the dish.

Congee with Abalone [$16.00]
The congee was another highlight, and coincidentally (or not), also featured abalone, which served as a textural counterpoint and also added a fantastic depth to the soup. Taken with scallion, ginger, and a dash of white pepper, the dish was a comforting, cozy experience that ranked among the top rice porridges I've had.

Crispy Pepper Calamari [$8.00] | Spicy Aioli
Squid was rather tasty, with the scallion and accompanying condiment working well with the subtly savory quality of the fritters. However, I would've liked less batter, so that the texture of the calamari could've been better appreciated.

EMC Chowder [$6.00] | Potatoes, Celery, Onions, Clams, Light Creamy Broth
You gotta try the chowda at a seafood joint right? EMC's version was definitely on the lighter side, but nicely balanced, with the proper flavors all in place. Worth a try.

Aguas Frescas [$12.00] | Vodka, Mint, Cucumber, Sugar, & Champagne
Bee's Knees [$12.00] | Ford's Gin, Fresh Lemon Juice, Honey
Our last round of cocktails brought the Aguas Frescas, the lightest libation of the night with its candied, almost Jolly Rancher-esque sweetness tempered by a backbone of cucumber. Finally, there was the Bee's Knees, an unabashedly classic drink with a bracingly lemon-y flair that was duly moderated by the sugary heft of honey.

Dungeness Crab [$38.00] | Crispy: Light Batter, Sea Salt, Garlic, Onions, White Pepper, Soy Sauce
The evening's pièce de résistance was an impressive looking specimen of Dungeness crab, done up in proper Chinese-y fashion. The crabmeat itself was sweet, tender, subtle, and expectedly difficult to extract, but went superbly with the savory, salty qualities of its accompaniments. A fun one to share--gotta suck on those legs.

Chinese Broccoli [$5.00]
The gai-lan worked well as a foil to the course above, its crunchy, bitter qualities nicely balancing the intensity of the crab.

Belgium Chocolate Lava Cake [$6.00] | With Whipped Cream
With that, it was time for dessert, and how expected of us to start with a rendition of the ubiquitous molten chocolate cake (a creation of Michel Bras' from the 80's, I understand). EMC's was about what you'd expect: tasty enough, but not particularly interesting.

Ginger Crème Brûlée [$6.00]
The crème brûlée was a tiny bit more intriguing, with the piquant characteristics of the ginger really permeating the custard, all while the berries added just a hint of tartness to the fray.

Yuzu Soufflé Cheesecake [$6.00] | With Whipped Cream
We concluded with my favorite of the desserts. I appreciated the sourness of the yuzu here, and how it really made itself known over the traditional heft and tanginess of the cheesecake.

EMC's been blowing up as of late, and I can see why. The restaurant is almost painfully on-trend, delivering on its promises of solid seafood, but with a resoundingly Asian outlook. It is really that approach that makes this place stand out from the crowd. Desserts could use a little rejuvenation (I'd perhaps consider going more overtly Asian--riffing on patbingsu for example), but service was on point, and cocktails were definitely worth checking out as well. In the end, EMC looks to be a great fit for the neighborhood, and a much-needed addition to the K-Town dining scene.

Girasol Restaurant
11334 Moorpark St, Los Angeles, CA 91602
818.924.2323
www.girasolrestaurant.com
Wed 09/18/2013, 08:45p-11:15p

Girasol's probably the most exciting thing to hit the Studio City dining scene since Adam Horton started cooking at Raphael. Named after the Spanish word for "sunflower," the place opened on July 1st and takes over the supposedly "cursed" space formerly occupied by a string of mediocre establishments (8 1/2 Taverna, Nick's Grill, ZenChi Cafe, and Studio Bar-B-Q). The draw here is clearly Executive Chef CJ Jacobson, whom we know from his two appearances on Top Chef, and the restaurant certainly hits all the culinary buzzwords du jour, advertising the cooking as local, hyper-seasonal, refined-rustic, sustainable, approachable-yet-unique Cal cuisine. We shall see.

About the Chef: Chris Jacobson hails from El Toro, CA (the O.G. Lake Forest) and grew up somewhat disinterested in food. He attended Pepperdine University, and during his tenure there, played volleyball under legendary coach Marv Dunphy, even reaching the NCAA Men's Volleyball Championship match in 1998. After graduating with a degree in TV/radio production and a minor in history, he played volleyball professionally in Europe and even tried out for the 2000 Summer Olympics in Sydney. While living in Belgium, Jacobson first began developing an appreciation for food, and upon his return to the US in 2001, started working at Abbot Kinney mainstay Axe. Following, he enrolled in the Le Cordon Bleu program at the CSCA, and from there, cooked at Wolfgang Puck Catering, and then at Campanile for a year and a half.

In 2005, Jacobson was diagnosed with testicular cancer, but overcame the condition after undergoing radiation therapy and surgery. However, this caused him to leave the restaurant biz and move into the less stressful role of private cheffing, securing clients such as Arianna Huffington and the Marciano family (of the Guess clothing line). In 2007, Jacobson was thrust into the national limelight through his appearance on Top Chef Season 3, where he finished in sixth place. With this newfound celebrity, he served as a menu consultant for Hilton Garden Inn in 2008, and also had plans to open Town and Country, an ambitious restaurant concept in Chicago, with fellow TC contestants Dale Levitski and Sara Nguyen. The idea was scrapped, though, following the economic downturn that year (interestingly, Levitski and Nguyen are working together now at Sprout, also in Chicago).

Jacobson's next move came in 2009, when he took on the Executive Chef role at The Yard in Santa Monica. While working there, he also assisted Michael Chiarello on the first season of Top Chef Masters, then participated in the James Beard Foundation's Celebrity Chef Tour and cooked a dinner at the Beard House in New York. In 2012, he left The Yard and staged for three months at René Redzepi's vaunted Noma in Copenhagen, and later competed on Season 10 of Top Chef, where he was eliminated in the fifth episode (though he rocked Last Chance Kitchen). After this renewed bit of fame, Jacobson began consulting for George Abou-Daoud, revamping menus at The Mercantile, Rosewood Tavern, and The Bowery before taking over the kitchens at Girasol.

2010 Château de Fuisse Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru

2010 Château de Fuisse Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru

As far as beverages go, Girasol still lacks a full liquor license, so cocktails aren't really an option at this point, while the wine list doesn't exactly scream excitement either. Corkage, though, is an option at $25, and a couple of my dining companions were gracious enough to bring along a few bottles. First was the 2010 Château de Fuisse Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru, which I found light and citrusy, with a refreshing acidity and quaint minerality to it, all joined by a certain roundness and viscosity on the tongue. I quite liked this one, though others at the table were complaining about it being over-oaked.

House Bread [$4.00] | With Lovage Butter
I keep going back and forth on the idea of restaurants charging for bread, but Girasol's tonight was worth it, arriving at the table properly warm and wonderfully smoky, nicely crisp and crusty on the outside, with a soft, fluffy interior that I found quite beguiling. As good as the bread was, I was a fan of the butter as well, its silky consistency and herby lovage nuances proudly conveyed.

Marinated and Grilled Pork Satay [$11.00] | Caramelized Onion Puree, CA Olive Oil, Grilled Lemon, Fennel Pollen
The pork satay was another winner, the meat coming out tender, juicy, and wonderfully savory, with a fantastic countervailing char bitterness. The tinge of sourness from the lemon was much appreciated as well, and the sweetness of the onion coming through on the back end was pretty neat, too. My favorite component here, though, was the fennel pollen, which lent some wonderful aromatics to the course that just tied things together beautifully.

Apricot and Burrata Cheese [$12.00] | Crispy Lentils, Opal Basil, Sea Salt
Here, the sweetness of the stone fruit was really at the forefront (though some pieces were underripe), transitioning gracefully to the classic, yet always effective combination of basil and burrata, punctuated by hits of salt on the palate. Unfortunately, the crunch of the lentils was far too jarring here, really serving to distracting from, rather than enhance the dish.

The 2010 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet was a standout: spicy and herby, with a softly acidic quality and a fantastic blend of stone fruit and wet minerality. Very focused, with a pleasing finish.

Octopus Salad [$17.00] | Long Roasted Eggplant, Little Gem, Rosemary Ash Oil, Sweet & Sour Chili, Toasted Lovage
Given my penchant for octopus, this was obviously a must-order for me. The main ingredient I found masterfully cooked, its tender, yet still substantial consistency combining with a subtle brine and great char astringency, all making for thoroughly enjoyable eating experience. The octopod's various accompaniments made sense as well, resulting in a mélange of smoky, earthy, and tangy flavors that added further points of interest to the dish.

Dried Fava Bean Puree [$14.00] | House Chorizo, Cherry Tomato, Parsley, Grilled Flatbread
Fava was puréed into in an almost hummus-like form, its subtle flavors dutifully augmented by the pleasant spice of the accompanying chorizo, all while tomatoes served to brighten up the dish. Use the included flatbread to scoop up everything, and the result is strangely comforting.

Grilled House Ground Meatballs [$13.00] | Nicoise, Long cooked Tomato Sauce, Parmesan
Meatballs, meanwhile, were some of the best I've had. They showed off a crumbly texture and came slightly rare, which I appreciated. Taste-wise, they were spot on: wonderfully savory in a straightforward fashion, with the tanginess of the tomato coming through toward the finish.

With the reds, we moved from Burgundy to Italy, and first to the plate was the 2005 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro. I found it a lovely presentation of Sangiovese, rather easy drinking and nicely balanced with its sourish cherry notes and earthy, woody musk.

Tamai Farms Pan Roasted Cauliflower [$18.00] | Grilled Oyster Mushroom, Mandarin Satsuma, Almond Cauliflower Puree, Lentils
At this point, we moved into the larger plates. I'm a big fan of cauliflower, and Jacobson's rendition of it here really delivered. The veggie itself showcased its inherently light, delicate flavors and trademark crispness, and was deftly paired with the headier, earthier notes from the mushrooms, all while the purée and lentils acted to ground the dish. A great vegetarian option to be sure.

Rabbit

Rabbit [$32.00] | Chanterelles, Squash, Blueberry, Chervil, Shaved Chestnuts
One of two specials tonight was the rabbit (the other was grouper). The kitchen did a nice job with the it, the meat being dense, mild, with a straightforward savoriness that melded very well with the rich, earthy nuances from the mushrooms. Chervil added a nice brightness to the dish, and the blueberries just a modicum of sweetness.

Whole Fried Red Snapper [$28.00] | Crispy Greens, Fermented Fresno Chili, Sauce of Kumquat, Sorrel and Citrus
The oft-photographed snapper reminded me of a similar dish at Salt Air. The version here was similarly delectable: juicy and flavorful, with a delightfully crisp skin. I quite enjoyed the fish bare, but the fermented chili-kumquat-sorrel dipping sauce that came along was something else, imparting a sour-smoky tint to the main ingredient that recalled Islay scotch(!).

Our final wine of the evening was the 2004 Antico Terren Ottavi Pianetta di Cagnore. It made a strong showing as well, displaying heady aromas of dark floral, fruit laced with spice, which continued onto the palate where it was joined by subtle tannins and traces of astringency.

Braised Leg of Lamb [$21.00] | Carrot Puree, Crispy Brussels, Ruby Plum, Fried Potato, Dill Flower
Our final savory course of the night brought us an artful presentation of lamb. The leg, unfortunately, was a touch dry, though its ovine flavors were still dutifully conveyed, and particularly apt when paired with the sweetness of the carrot and fruit, while the Brussels and dill contributed a bit of levity to the fray.

Olive Oil Cake and Peach [$8.00]
Naturally, we opted for all three of Girasol's desserts, and the first was this great rendition of olive oil cake. The cake itself I found wonderfully moist, with a subtle, yet omnipresent olive-y character that went superbly with the dollop of crème fraîche on top. The juicy sweetness of the peaches made for a fitting pairing, and I really liked the herbaceous overtones (fennel?) as well.

Dark Chocolate Chiboust [$8.00]
The requisite chocolate cake was successful, the cake itself bursting with rich, dark, sugary flavors, a perfect pair to the caramel ice cream and its delightful pricks of salt.

Strawberry and Doughnuts [$8.00]
Finally, buttermilk donut holes were presented with strawberries, globules of crème fraîche ice cream, pistachio coulis, and what I believe was sorrel. Here, the sweet, tangy fruit served as a foil to the slightly savory nature of the fried dough, with the crème fraîche adding a well-placed jolt of tanginess to the mix. Lovely bit of piquancy from the greenery, too. One nit: I would've liked the doughnuts to have come out warmer.

I don't think anyone really doubts that Girasol's a much-needed new addition to the Studio City scene. Like I mentioned above, it's one of the most exciting developments to hit the area in a while. The food's mostly successful, and you can see flashes of Jacobson's pan-ethnic influences and Noma training. Given Girasol's locale, I understand the need to make some of the plates more approachable, but I'd also like to see the Chef push things a bit more, to show us more of his progressive leanings (that is, if the owners--Roman and Ella Gofman--will let him). We've all witnessed Jacobson on Top Chef and what he produced on the show, and we can even peek at what he's up to on his Instagram, so I think things are moving in that direction. I'm curious to see where he takes this.

RivaBella Restaurant
9201 W Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
310.278.2060
www.rivabellarestaurant.com
Fri 09/20/2013, 08:35p-11:55p

When we last left Gino Angelini, he had converted La Terza to the more casual Minestraio. Minestraio, however, failed to catch on and shuttered in March 2011, replaced by The Churchill. The Chef's next move was revealed at the beginning of last year, when it was announced that he'd be partnering with the Innovative Dining Group to launch RivaBella in the old Hamburger Hamlet building on Sunset (a location shared with haute Chinese concept Chi-Lin). Named after a village near Angelini's hometown of Rimini, RivaBella represents his biggest, most glamorous restaurant yet, and debuted on January 14th. As he can't be expected to be in the kitchen all the time, running the day-to-day here are Chef de Cuisine Ezio Puccioni (All' Angelo, La Terza) and Executive Sous Chef Adam Titze, formerly of BOA.

The menu at RivaBella reads a bit pan-Italian, but with a nod toward the Chef's Emilia-Romagna upbringing. To drink, we're talking about Italian-centric cocktails from bartender Aaron Alvarez (Plan Check, Sunset Tower Hotel, SoHo House, not to mention Chi-Lin) as well as a respectable Cal-Italian wine list. Click for larger versions.

Vista Mar / Notte Scura / Negroni Nuovo / Amore Di Violette

Vista Mar / Notte Scura / Negroni Nuovo / Amore Di Violette

Vista Mar [$14.00] | Grey Goose Vodka, Fresh Basil and Organic Hibiscus Liqueur
Notte Scura [$14.00] | Maker's Mark Whisky, Nonino Amaro and Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth with Luxardo Cherry
Negroni Nuovo [$14.00] | Bombay Sapphire, Calisaya, Cocchi Americano, Stirred
Amore Di Violette [$14.00] | Oxley Gin, Creme de Violette and Maraschino Liqueur with Fresh Blackberries and Candied Violet Petals
A quartet of cocktails to begin. Going left to right, we had the Vista Mar, its straightforwardly sweet hibiscus flavors balanced against the herby overtones from the basil, the vodka almost invisible. The Notte Scura, on the other hand, was much boozier, with the woody nature of the Maker's nicely conveyed alongside the spiciness of the amaro, all while the vermouth and Luxardo imparted a delightfully sugary undercurrent to the drink. The Negroni Nuovo was a riff on the traditional cocktail--sweet, bitter, herbaceous, and surprisingly light--with Calisaya in place of Campari and Cocchi Americano substituting for vermouth. Finally, the Amore Di Violette I found unexpectedly boozy, with the aromatics of the gin strongly displayed, set off by the sweet, floral notes present.

Bread & Bean Dip

Bread and grissini were presented with a dip of cannellini and garbanzo beans, olive oil, and garlic.

Carpaccio di Pesce Spada con Pistacchio e Bottarga [$21.00] | Seared Swordfish Carpaccio with Pistachio and Bottarga
Swordfish was meaty and moist, well cooked and pretty enjoyable. However, the kitchen was heavy handed with the bottarga here, which imparted a very strong salinity to the dish that tended to overwhelm the comparatively delicate fish.

Polipo con Olive e Patate [$22.00] | Octopus Salad with Roasted Potatoes, Olives, and Salsa Verde
I'm a sucker for octopus, and indeed, the salad here was one of the highlights of the meal. The cephalopod arrived nicely cooked, albeit a bit tough in places, showing off a mouthwatering brine and char that linked up beautifully with the savory, deliciously cubes of potato tossed in. At the same time, tempering things out were the tangy influences of the salsa and tomato, making for a well balanced dish overall.

Ricciola Crudo [$22.00] | Amber Jack Carpaccio with Red Pepperoncini Dressing, Pomegranate & Dill
One of the specials of the evening, the amberjack was the least successful course of the night. The fish was effectively masked here, first from the very piquant combination of peperoncini and pomegranate, then with strong blasts of both olive oil and salt that just overwhelmed the palate.

Pizza con Asparagi e Uova di Quaglia [$22.00] | Asparagus, Quail Egg, and Parmesan Cheese Pizza
RivaBella only offers a handful of pizzas, but the one we had was enjoyable. The pie came out thin and crisp, with a strong cheesy component that fared well against the bitterness of the asparagus. Tasty.

With the cocktails dispensed with, we moved on to a white wine, the 2012 Habit Chenin Blanc Jurassic Park Vineyard [$75]. Chenin Blanc's usually not a varietal I gravitate toward, but this was really nice: light, bright, and utterly refreshing, with an almost effervescent quality and plenty of vibrant stone fruit nuances to go along with the grassy notes and great backbone of minerality. Interestingly, the winemaker here is none other than Jeff Fischer, who voices the eponymous character (Hayley's stoner, loser boyfriend) on American Dad.

Risotto con Fiori di Zucca e Granchio [$28.00] | Risotto with Crab and Zucchini Blossoms
Moving into the pastas now, we of course had to start with the risotto, which I rather liked. The ocean-y essence of the crab really penetrated the nicely al dente grains here, and I much appreciated the tempering aspect provided by the zucchini too.

Nidi di Rondine [$21.00] | Nested Pasta with Italian Ham and Parmigiano Cream
Next was a San Marino specialty of nested, baked pasta. I'd actually never had the dish before, but it was easily the most comforting of the trio, with its brazenly cheesy, meaty goodness hitting the spot nicely.

Linguine con Ricci di Mare [$28.00] | Linguine with Sea Urchin Sauce
Sea urchin seems to be the pasta topping du jour these days, but RivaBella's was a worthwhile presentation. The noodles themselves were properly firm, serving as a fitting base for the lush, herby, slightly spicy flavors to really sing. I would've liked a bit more of the urchin here, though.

With our mains, we went for a red, the 2010 La Spinetta Langhe Nebbiolo [$68]. This one was intensely perfume-y on the nose, with plenty of rich, fruity notes that actually led to a decidedly more austere palate, one that was quite tannic and acidic, with hints of smoke and alcohol toward the close.

Astice al Guazzetto [$48.00] | Roasted Maine Lobster Tail in Tomato White Wine Broth
Inspired by Eater LA's recent list, we went with the lobster. The tail was meaty and firm, with a pretty decent texture to it and a mildly sweet relish that paired swimmingly with the accompanying, tangy tomato stew.

Mixed Wild Mushrooms [$10.00]
Mixed mushrooms were just what you'd expect: dark, earthy, and delectably savory.

Costata di Bue Piemontese [$62.00] | 16oz Piedmontese Ribeye
Here, we see our most substantial course of the evening. The rib eye was a pretty impressive sight, arriving juicy, with a very strong char component. Taste-wise, the steak was nice, though not particularly beefy in nature, while texturally, it could've been improved in places. The cut was joined by some delectable rosemary(?) potatoes, which were spot on.

Long Braised Swiss Chard [$9.00]
Chard was light and crunchy, with a touch of astringency to it that made sense with the strong garlicky notes present.

Classic Tiramisu [$11.00] | Layers of Espresso Soaked Lady Fingers with Mascarpone Cheese, Brandy and Cocoa
Desserts proceeded with the ubiquitous tiramisu. RivaBella's was one of the strongest preparations I've had, traditional in essence, with the lush, espresso- and brandy-saturated cake showing off an eminently pleasing combination of sweet, boozy, coffee-laced flavors.

Selezione di Gelato dello Chef [$12.00] | Selection of House Made Gelato
The restaurant's selection of homemade gelatos were on point, coming tonight in hazelnut, vanilla, chocolate, and pistachio flavors. They were all delicious in their own right, and went beautifully with their crispy cookie base.

Torta di Ricotta [$12.00] | Italian Cheesecake with Ricotta Cheese, Almonds and Rum Poached Pears
We ended with the cheesecake, a commendable version of the dish that deftly played sweet and tangy nuances off each other, augmented by the weight of the poached fruit. Superb when taken with the accompanying ice cream.

Given that this was an IDG joint, I didn't exactly have high hopes for the food, so my expectations were met, maybe even a bit exceeded. I think the menu can perhaps verge on "safe" at times, but the ideas generally work. Execution could use improvement though, and overall I'd definitely like to see more finesse, more precision. Service, meanwhile, was shockingly on point, even on a Friday night, and it seemed like our servers were genuinely trying to do the right thing. Even more surprising, the whole vibe wasn't nearly as noxious as I'd feared. The likes of Sotto and Bestia need not fret, but this isn't a bad choice necessarily.

Etto Restaurant
1541 14th St NW, Washington, DC 20005
202.232.0920
www.ettodc.com
Tue 09/24/2013, 08:30p-10:40p

Etto Exterior

After spending two years away from DC, I recently made my way back to the Nation's capital for a business trip. First on the eating itinerary was Etto, a new, low-key pizza/wine bar concept named after an Italian measure of weight equaling 100 grams. The Logan Circle restaurant opened in May, and represents a collaboration between the owners of the vaunted 2 Amys pizzeria (Amy Morgan and Peter Pastan) and beer garden-slash-BBQ joint Garden District/The Standard (Tad Curtz and David Rosner); Curtz, by the way, was a cook at 2 Amys from 2006 to 2010. The Chef here, meanwhile, is Cagla Onal-Urel, a Turkish native who worked at Pastan's Obelisk for several years before moving back to Istanbul to head the kitchens at Hotel Les Ottomans. She was invited back to the US by her former employer, and joined the Etto team in September of last year.

Etto Interior

Etto is located in the old Well Built building, which has since been transformed by local architect Bill Feeney. The 42-seat space sports a comforting sort of vibe befitting the food, and many of the furnishings and fixtures were actually constructed by Curtz and his father.

As far as Etto's menu goes, there's a standard set of dishes--anchored by pizzas and housemade salumi--that compose most of the offerings, joined by a dynamic selection of daily specials ("Tonight"). To drink, you'll find a Sicilian-heavy, Beaujolais-boasting wine list, some Italian-leaning beers, and a handful of cocktails. Click for larger versions.

TBD Negroni [$11.00] | Homemade Red Vermouth, Campari and Green Hat Gin
Etto's negroni, famously concocted with the restaurant's homemade vermouth, was one of the best I've had. I loved its medicinal, vegetal nuances up front, as well as its base of pleasant, restrained bittersweetness. Very well integrated, thoroughly balanced, and unquestionably delicious.

Octopus Salad with Pickled Vegetables and Arugula [$13.00]
Octopus was a must, of course. The version here featured substantial cuts of the cephalopod, savory and sweet, with a fitting counterpoint in the form of those sharply astringent greens. Tying things together, meanwhile, was the salad's delightfully tangy dressing.

Rabbit Liver (almost) Mousse on Homemade Crackers with Mulberry Jam [$3.50]
Etto's rabbit liver was stupendous, I'm pretty sure one of the tastiest preparations I've had. The mousse arrived earthy and lush, yet subtle, with a perfect amount of moderating sweetness and a great crunch from the cracker.

Anchovies in Green Sauce [$11.00]
The restaurant has a particular penchant for anchovies, and here the fish was shown in its best light, its focused, yet refined brine utterly balanced by the tangy salsa verde, all while the egg acted as a luxurious foil in the dish. Very well thought out.

The Gilda 'Radner'

The Gilda "Radner" [$7.00]
Here was a take on the gilda, a traditional tapas "lollipop" dish composed of anchovy, olive, and chile pepper. Think fishy and intense, the power of the anchovy tempered by the piquant, acidic, spicy jolt of its pickled accoutrements.

Bread

Bread, smoky and crusty, is made in-house, natch.

Saint Gennaro [$11.00] | Lambrusco Grasparossa with Nardini Tagliatella Liqueur and Grapefruit Juice
My next cocktail was also pretty fantastic, with a base of lambrusco vivacity intertwined with aromatic notes of fruit, spice, and a beautiful bittersweet component. This one went down easy (almost too easy).

French Breakfast Radishes with Anchovy Butter [$3.50]
Radishes were crisp and astringent, their sharp, bracing character balanced out by the application of salt and that fishy compound butter.

Pork, Duck, and Rabbit Rillette [$9.00]
Rillettes were dense and hefty, imbued with a heady meatiness and a modicum of sweet spice to smooth things out. Pickles, meanwhile, provided a crucial crunch and acidity to things.

Cauliflower with Pine Nuts and Saffron [$9.00]
Cauliflower was a must-try given my proclivity for it. Saffron offered up a particularly effective complement to the vegetable, and I really appreciated the nutty crunch here imparted by the pinoli. However, I would've really liked the cauliflower to have been firmer, crisper in consistency.

Nerello Mascalese 'Ghiaia Nera,' Tascante '10

With the pizza, I switched things up to wine and had a glass of the Nerello Mascalese "Ghiaia Nera," Tascante '10 [$12]. This Sicilian was fairly intense, loaded with strong berry flavors joined by a slightly grassy/herby/spicy component. Tannins were quite apparent, as was an undercurrent of minerality

Cotechino with Fontina and Egg [$17.00]
Given the pedigree of the owners, trying one of the pies was certainly called for. The dough here is composed of wheat milled on site, along with a touch of spelt, and fired in a red oak-burning oven. The result is a crust that's fluffy and stretchy (not to mention properly leopard spotted), with a bittersweet tinge to it that was quite to my liking. Taken with the fatty, herby, unabashedly pork-y sausage, salty cheese, and runny egg, the effect was rather fetching.

To pair with dessert, I ordered up a serving of the sticky stuff, specifically the Moscato Passito, Colosi '10 [$11]. This was exactly what you'd expect: a blast of honeyed, stone fruit sweetness, but balanced by a great backbone of acidity.

Miss Frascati + Ice Cream

Miss Frascati [$5.00]
Ice Cream [$6.00] | Crema with Orange and Cinnamon & San Daniele with Candied Pistachio
Dessert was interesting, featuring the legendary three-breasted (two milk, one wine) woman from Frascati, basically a sweet 'n' spicy cookie that went wonderfully with the excellent homemade ice creams.

Etto was a nice way to get back into the DC dining scene. The cooking shows off a sort of approachable simplicity, with flavors that are pure, focused, and undoubtedly work with each other. I appreciated the rustic, home-y quality of the food, as well as the emphasis on housemade product, making for a combination that, judging from the crowds, is working wonders for the team here.

minibar by José Andrés
855 E St NW, Washington, DC 20004
202.393.0812
www.minibarbyjoseandres.com
Wed 09/25/2013, 08:10p-11:20p

As far as restaurants go, José Andrés' Minibar has no doubt been one of my holy grails, a place that I'd set my sights on early on in my culinary journey. I'd been wanting to dine here since 2005, but the difficulty of securing reservations, not to mention its location in DC, had put me off until now.

For the uninitiated, Minibar first opened in July 2003, set in the upstairs bar of Andrés' pan-Latin eatery Cafe Atlantico, and quickly garnered acclaim for being the first place in the United States to really offer diners a taste of avant garde Spanish cuisine, a traditional that it still upholds today. The original incarnation of Minibar shuttered in July 2011, when Cafe Atlantico was converted to America Eats Tavern, which itself closed recently. However, in November last year, the restaurant relocated to a larger space previously home to Zola Wine & Kitchen, but still remains the most exclusive of all of ThinkFoodGroup's properties (which include popular destinations such as Jaleo, Oyamel, and Zaytinya). It serves as a research and development lab for the TFG, the birthplace of new ideas and concepts that often spread to Andrés' other projects, the similarly progressive Saam and é in particular.

Leading the charge here is R&D Director Ruben Garcia, as well his assistant Aitor Lozano Zabala, both of whom spent considerable time at Ferran Adrià's game-changing El Bulli. At the same time, running the day-to-day is Executive Sous Chef Johnny Spero, best known for his short-lived Suna (he's also a veteran of Town House in Chilhowie, Rogue 24, and Komi who apprenticed at both Alinea and Noma). Meanwhile, rounding out the team were Sous Chef Charisse Dickens and stagiaire Daniel Bates, with GM Bevan Bunch, Service Director Daniel Taylor, and server Matt Hensel handling the front-of-the-house.

Minibar Waiting Area

I arrived early to my reservation, and thus was directed to the restaurant's waiting area out front, where I was presented with a box containing rice paper crackers dusted with nori powder and Maldon sea salt. I instantly thought of upscale Funyuns, with their very subdued base of flavor on top of which the seaweed and salt could really play with the palate.

Minibar Interior

Eventually, we were all ushered into the main dining space. Minibar's new 3,750sqft digs were penned by Juli Capella and Miquel Garcia of Capella Garcia Arquitectura, and was nominated this year for James Beard's Outstanding Restaurant Design award. The room is centered around a large open kitchen, home to seemingly as many cooks as diners. There are now twelve seats instead of a mere six, as well as the brand new José's Table, a private dining room accommodating up to half a dozen diners. It might just be a quick and convenient way of booking a ressie at Minibar, though it comes at a price: $3,000, inclusive of food (either the standard degustation or a special José's Table menu), beverage pairing, tax, and tip (so it's actually a pretty good deal).

Minibar's menu has gone up from $150 to $225 a head now, which is still not too unreasonable given its length. To drink, you'll find set beverage pairings at $45 (non-alcoholic), $75 (standard), $125 (celebration, highlighting sparkling wines), and $200 ("José's way"). If you'd rather choose your own adventure, there's a formidable, classically-leaning wine list of lighter bodied wines, not to mention a good selection of wines available by the glass. Click for a larger version.

1: A Poor Man's Pretention
As is typical in Andrés' more high-concept restaurants, we commenced with a "welcome cocktail." What we had here basically amounted to barley- and hops-flavored water, a fun little concoction (replete with mini brown paper bag) that really recalled the essence of beer.

2: Parmesan Canelé
Along with the beverage above came a bevy of bites to begin. A "canelé" of sorts seemed to dance between sweet and cheesy, but finished with the salty savor of the Parm on apparent display.

3: Pineapple Short Bread
Pineapple shortbread arrived in a disproportionately large vessel, but was fantastic despite its humble visage. The tart, tangy sweetness of the fruit was beautifully conveyed, set perfectly against the butteriness of the bite, which lingered long and strong on the close.

4: Pizza Margarita
I'm a fan of thin crust pizza, but I'd never encountered anything like this before. There's thin, and then there's near-transparent, sheer, and damn well gossamer. What we had was all the flavors of a classic Margherita, but with almost no weight, no gravity at all. I was especially fond of the basil here, as well as the hit of spice on the back end imparted by the optional dried chile flakes. I'd love to demolish an entire pie!

Wild Flowers of North Carolina

5: Pressed Flowers
Krug Grande Cuvée Brut Champagne, France
A course of pressed flowers recalled the arts and crafts projects I tackled in elementary school (anyone else remember sticking specimens between the pages of Webster's?). We had petals of anise hyssop, carnation, and marigold set in a potato starch paper with rosewater and St. Germain. The result was a sweet, sticky, and undoubtedly floral-tinged mass that actually worked out surprisingly well against the slightly oxidative nature of the paired Krug.

Prepping Almond Tart with Blue Cheese

Here, we see the meticulous, time-sensitive (liquid nitrogen was involved) preparation of our next course.

6: Almond Tart with Blue Cheese
Krug Grande Cuvée Brut Champagne, France
Looking at this course, I thought it'd be dessert-y, but instead, what we got instead was a mélange of flavors incorporating Marcona almond (in the form of that hemispherical shell), passion fruit-lychee, and Queso de Valdeón. The effect was savory and cheesy, sort of recalling the nuances of a traditional tapas dish.

7: Rubber Ducky
2010 Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Kabinett Berncasteler Doctor Mosel, Germany
Minibar's nod to the iconic bath toy (as well as a follow-up to last season's "When Pigs Fly") was comprised of foie gras ice cream and duck stuffed inside a dehydrated apple meringue. The almost ethereal sweetness of the apple worked flawlessly with the earthy relish of liver, really making for a gorgeously balanced presentation of the foie. I loved the surprising gravitas of the dish given its lighthearted presentation, and thoroughly adored the spot on wine pairing here as well, that perfect off-dry Riesling really hitting the mark--ah the joys of a good Kabinett!

8: Sea Bean Tempura
2010 Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Kabinett Berncasteler Doctor Mosel, Germany
What looked like a twisted avian claw was instead a fritter of sea bean, dusted with coconut powder and drizzled with a tamarind reduction. The taste, meanwhile, somehow recalled a churro upon first bite, but with very apparent notes of Cheetos coming through on the back end!

9: Waldorf Salad
2010 Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Kabinett Berncasteler Doctor Mosel, Germany
Minibar's reimagined Waldorf salad was unquestionably one of the highlights of the evening. Set between two "buns" of apple meringue was an admixture of apple, pickled celery, celery ice, walnut, and a so-called "creamy dressing." Looking at the meringues, I was afraid that the "bread-to-meat" ratio here would be off, but their airy, almost melt-in-your-mouth nature really made things work. Think, sweet, tangy flavors, flawlessly balanced by a strong backbone of astringent celery, with a lovely temperature contrast to boot.

10: Late-Night Chicken Shawarma
2010 Movia Sauvignon Blanc Primorje, Slovenia
Another stunner of a course was the homage to the nourishing shawarmas that most of us have consumed late night at one point or another. Wrapped tightly in lettuce were chicken skin, chicken jus, and various herbs, all accompanied by a pepper-dusted yogurt condiment. Taken alone, the roll was bursting with mouth-watering chicken-y goodness (not to mention the crunch of those cracklins), beautifully accented by the snappy brightness of its veggie wrapper. The key, though, was that thoroughly addictive yogurt, which just might rival the Halal Guys' legendary "white sauce." It provided a delicate, lactic tang that integrated the entire dish; seriously, people were licking it off the plate. I also have to give props to the wine pairing here as well. I don't normally reach for sauvignon blanc, but the Movia here was excellent, showing off a refreshing fruitiness, but also a grassy character and a surprisingly mineral-y profoundness to it--one of the best sauv blancs I've ever tasted no doubt.

Thai Basil 'Iced Tea'

Our next course eschewed wine in favor of a Thai Basil "Iced Tea" that brought together Aperol, ginger beer, lime, and a Thai basil "air." It was a delightful little cocktail, a blast of bittersweet and uncommonly herbal, aromatic influences over an undercurrent of ginger-y zest.

Tweezer Food

Time for a tweezer party!

11: Vietnamese Pig Ear
Thai Basil "Iced Tea"
A reference to Vietnamese street food, we had here a pig ear chicharrón stuffed with curried pork shoulder, pickles, and herbs, all garnished with a Pasteur pipette of chili oil. The home-y, intoxicating nuances of the curry really underpinned the course, perfectly countervailed by the brightness of the herbs and pickles, with the oreja serving as a salty, crunchy base to the dish. Delicious, and even better when taken with the warmth imparted by the chile.

To wipe our fingers: A compressed napkin tablet à la Baume, rehydrated via rosewater.

Assembly Line for Ibérico Sea Urchin

The tableside assembly line for our next course.

12: Ibérico Sea Urchin
Poma Aurea Sidra de Asturias, Spain
Here, sea urchin was joined by an egg yolk sauce and set in an Ibérico broth, the deeply smoky, savory essence of the liquid deftly transitioning to the sweet, briny notes of the uni. Excellent when taken with the dry, funky cider that came with.

Putting Together the Coconut Cuttlefish

Plating Coconut Cuttlefish, Johnny Spero in the middle.

13: Coconut Cuttlefish
Takasago Shuzo "Ginga Shizuku Divine Droplets" Junmai Daiginjo Hokkaido Prefecture, Japan
What looked like coconut was actually cuttlefish, and vice versa--a playful deception, and one that successfully mimicked textures as well. Taste wise, what we enjoyed were two facets of competing sweetness, both tied together by the tangy zing of the accompanying sauce.

14: Beech Mushroom Papillot with Truffle
2011 François Carillon Chardonnay Puligny-Montrachet 1er "Champs-Gain" Burgundy, France
One of the more comforting courses was this presentation of shimeji prepared en papillote, in which mushrooms were cooked in a transparent plastic pouch, which was then cut open tableside, the musky bouquet of the 'shrooms utterly intoxicating. If that wasn't enough, pecan truffle was then shaved on top, revealing further richness and depth, its earthy perfume enveloping the entire dish. A table favorite.

15: Smoked Chicken Oysters with Escabeche
2010 Romano Clelia Fiano di Avellino "Colli Di Lapio" Campania, Italy
Oysters were plated with chicken broth, mushroom, lardo, scallion, and an escabeche froth, with the whole shebang encased in an apple wood smoke-filled glass cloche. When lifted, the vapors dispersed, thus presenting a smoky balance to the brine of the oyster, while the escabeche foam and greenery imparted just enough brightness and levity to the course.

Creating Fabes con Almejas

Chef Spero takes the lead.

16: Fabes con Almejas
2011 Hilberg-Pasquero Brachetto/Barbera Vareij Piedmont, Italy
This seemingly classic Spanish dish of "beans and clams" was anything but. Rather, we had a study in spherification. The apparent "beans" here were actually composed of white bean purée, spherified, and the clams were similarly encapsulated in their own juices. The ocean-y flavors of the bivalves were somehow enhanced in the process, their blast of salinity beautifully counterbalanced by the mild, nutty beans, all while dots of parsley added a bit of verdant brightness to the dish. I loved the wine pairing here as well, the Hilberg showing off an incredibly perfume-y nose that was just bursting with floral, fruity notes.

17: Espardenyes with Bone Marrow
2010 Nicolas Rossignol Pinot Noir Volnay 1er "Clos de Angles" Burgundy, France
I'm no fan of sea cucumber, but served here with bone marrow, black pepper, and a butter froth, it was simply the best preparation of the creature that I'd ever eaten. Texturally, it was spot on--snappy, yet supple--and I loved its mild, oceanic savors, expertly augmented by the heft of that marrow, the butter adding an overarching richness to the entire amalgam. I'll be thinking of this one for a while. Great Volnay here, too.

Oyster Leaf Intermezzo

Serving as an intermezzo before the squab was an oyster leaf dabbed with a mousse of the bird's liver and an apple mignonette air. It packed a lot of flavor into a miniscule bite, the earthy essence of the liver masterfully tempered by the tartness of apple as well as the piquant zing of the dish's leafy base.

18: Roast Squab with Seaweed
2010 Nicolas Rossignol Pinot Noir Volnay 1er "Clos de Angles" Burgundy, France
The most substantial course of the night came, unsurprisingly, in the form of our last savory: a roasted squab breast, with oyster cream and coated with mounds of seaweed. The bird came out quite rare, and in fact some of my fellow diners questioned if the meat was undercooked. I have to believe, though, that a kitchen of this stature would never undercook by accident. The temperature, thus, was as intended, and indeed, it really brought the squab's lean, almost gamy intensity to the forefront. At the same time though, the ocean-y, umami-laced shards of seaweed here formed a surprisingly effective, and sort of brilliant counterpoint to the protein, and I much appreciated the undertones of sweet pomegranate(?) in the dish, too.

19: Bloody Beets and Yogurt
Our first dessert featured my archnemesis, the beet, in spherified form with hibiscus, topped with heaps of shaved frozen yogurt. The effect, quite simply, was flawless, the cool, tangy froyo offering up the perfect complement to the sugary, floral nuances of the beet-hibiscus combo. Seriously one of the best beet dishes I've ever had.

Plating the Last Course

Here, Spero tackles our final course at Minibar proper...

20: Mango Floating Island
2007 Dagueneau/Pautrat Le Jardins De Babylone Petite Manseng Jurançon, France
...A riff on the classic île flottante, only one made with dried mango and coconut water. I found it a light, refreshing, palate-clearing sort of course, the sweet, tangy notes of the dessert melding seamlessly with a certain herby verve, all while tapioca bits on the bottom imparted just enough textural play.

21: Raspberry Bon Bon
At this point, we left our seats at Minibar and moved to the adjacent Barmini, Andrés' new cocktail lab (look out for a separate report on it later), and enjoyed our last parting bites, a parade of mignardises if you will. First on the docket was a raspberry bonbon, the sweetness and vivacity of the fruit duly moderated by the lactic nature of the yogurt here.

22: Thai Pocky Stick
A Thai-inspired reworking of the iconic Pocky was even better than the original, a fantastically crunchy blend of chocolate-y and spicy flavors that left me wanting more.

23: Lemon-Mallow
A stark demisphere comprised a lemon marshmallow, encased in white chocolate, the sugary heft of the latter counterbalanced by the former's unabashedly puckering qualities.

Blueberry Coulant + Boozy Bear

24: Blueberry Coulant
25: Boozy Bear
This twosome brought us a delightful blueberry coulant alongside a wonderfully boozy, mezcal-flavored gummy bear.

26: Doughnuts
1979 Francis Darroze Domaine de Lamarquette Bas-Armagnac, France
Lastly, we had my favorite of the little treats: Krispy Kreme ice cream in ring form, covered in milk chocolate and sprinkles. Visuals aside, this really did taste like a doughnut, but somehow in concentrated form. I'll take a dozen, please!

Oolong Tea

Along with the sweets came our choice of tea (I chose oolong) and pourover coffee, both of which, not surprisingly, were among the best I've tasted.

Minibar's been a meal eight years in the making, and I gotta say that it was worth the wait, especially as the restaurant just celebrated its 10th anniversary. There's a reason why this place has remained one of the temples of progressive gastronomy throughout the years. The cooks here are masters of manipulation, of reinventing the ordinary, of putting out food that perfectly blends tradition with technique, infusing it with artful nuances, irreverent touches, and sometimes cerebral flourishes that tantalize both the mind and the palate. And that last point's important; the cooking may be whimsical, unexpected, and unapologetically avant garde at times, but that would mean nothing if the food didn't taste good, but it most certainly did.

The dinner was actually a refreshing change of pace from the local/seasonal/sustainable/refined-yet-rustic mantra that has dominated our culinary Zeitgeist as of late (not that there's anything wrong with that). No, instead, ingredients are tweaked, sometimes beyond recognition, and gathered from all over the world (Andrés is a vocal proponent of sourcing the most appropriate product available, irrespective of locale), seasons be damned. Recipes aren't created on the fly, depending on what's available at the market, but painstakingly and exactingly developed for weeks or even months ahead of time.

And if that wasn't enough, the beverage pairings were among the best I've had, and service proved to be top notch--precise, yet relaxed, lighthearted even (much like the food). Taken with the intimacy and one-to-one interactions with the kitchen, Minibar's truly an experience not to be missed--a dinner and a show, the closest thing we can get to El Bulli--and should be on every serious diner's bucket list.

barmini by José Andrés
855 E St NW, Washington, DC 20004
202.393.4451
www.minibarbyjoseandres.com
Wed 09/25/2013, 11:20p-01:40a

If you read my Minibar post, you'll know that a dinner there also includes a reservation at Barmini. Set in an adjoining space, Barmini debuted in February and is a 30-seat "cocktail lab" concept run by Juan Coronado, one featuring a menu of over 100 chef-driven libations that simultaneously pays respects to classic cocktails while also showing off some distinctly modernist leanings. Barmini also acts as a cocktail development center, thus serving as a drink-focused version of Minibar in some respects.

Barmini Interior

As far as the interior goes, it's vastly different from pretty much every bar out there--light, modern, even a bit surreal--but really fits in with Minibar's aesthetic next door.

As we see above, I'm not exaggerating when I say that Barmini's menu is vast, broken up by choice of base spirit. Note the use of "-" versus "=" next to the descriptions, the former signifying a classic drink, the latter signaling a more contemporary (though not necessarily avant garde) concoction. Wine is also an option here, but why? In addition, you'll probably want to eat something, so there's even a small menu of elevated bar snacks to go along with the booze. Click for larger versions.

The Highlander [$16.00] | whiskey, mezcal, rosemary syrup, crème de cacao
To start, I requested something "unique," and Bartender David Strauss (who took care of me most of the night) responded with The Highlander. It was excellent, quite simply one of the best cocktails I've had in a while, and not just because of its plumes of rosemary scented air, which did indeed draw its share of oohs and aahs. I'm a fan of whiskey, and a fan of mezcal, and the two together here brought a beautiful commingling of woody, smoky flavors that played off of the aromatic, herby nuances of rosemary beautifully, all while the crème de cacao imparted just a smidge of sugariness to the drink. Utterly balanced, and uncommonly delicious.

Cocktail Paparazzi

Clearly, I wasn't the only one interested in documenting the spectacle.

Bánh Mì Burger [$8.00] | beef short rib, bone marrow, pickled vegetables
The burger came out looking more like a slider, but it was nevertheless one of the best I've eaten. The patty itself verged on decadent, with the super fatty, flavorful, succulent beef melding with the pickled veggies in perfect harmony. A flawless few bites.

Martinez [$12.00] | gin, vermouth, maraschino, orange bitters
For my second cocktail, I veered in a completely different direction and went with the Martinez, the predecessor to the martini that came recommended by Matt Hensel from Minibar. The classic combo of gin and vermouth was tarted up by the addition of orange bitters and maraschino liqueur, which resulted in a citrus-y, bittersweet, yet unabashedly stiff cocktail with a surprising complexity to it.

Uni Panini [$7.00] | sea urchin, alioli, romesco sauce, sansho peppercorn, caramelized brioche
My next snack was the mini uni panini (that's a lot of ni's). This one was delicious as well, with the lush, sweet, saline sea urchin masterfully tempered by the use of various veggies, all while the tangy romesco and sansho brought it all together.

Grilled Cheese [$9.00] | valdeon, cowgirl creamery mt. tam, sharp cheddar, truffle
The grilled cheese was pretty phenomenal too, the best I've had in fact. There was just this multifaceted richness and saltiness present, moderated by the crisp toast, and a fantastic truffle-y overtone that integrated everything.

Right Hand | aged rum, sweet vermouth, campari
Next, based off my request for something with dark rum, Strauss suggested this off-menu cocktail originally created by Michael McIlroy (Attaboy, Little Branch, Milk & Honey) back in '07. It was another winner, showing off a great blend of bitter and sweet flavors, the vermouth really coming through, all with just a tinge of spice at the end.

Thai Chicharrones [$6.00] | crispy pork skin, kaffir lime, ginger, tamarind, yogurt dip
The Thai-inspired pork rinds were fun, with their tart, herby flavors mixing with the sweet, creamy yogurt in commendable fashion.

Adonis

Adonis [$12.00] | oloroso sherry, sweet vermouth, orange bitters
Another cousin of the martini, the Adonis substitutes sherry for gin. The resulting cocktail gave up a lot of citrus fruit initially, which then led to a body brimming with the dark, wonderfully oxidative qualities of the oloroso.

'Foieffle'

"Foieffle" [$12.00] | mini waffle, foie gras, peanut butter, honey
The team at Minibar/Barmini really have a facility with foie, as we see here again. I was quite the fan of this über waffle and how the luxuriousness of the liver was so deftly integrated. It was almost PB&J-like in essence: sweet, lush, delectable, with the foie gras underscoring the entire experience.

Lobster Roll [$12.00] | canadian blue lobster, mayo espuma, pickled celery
Naturally, I had to try the lobster roll here for my last savory (though blue lobster isn't actually lobster, but a type of crayfish). It was tasty, the sweetness and brine of the flesh working well with the tangy, crunchy pickles, all while mayo helped tie everything together. My only qualm here was with the texture, as I would've preferred the meat snappier, springier in consistency.

Aged Rum Flip | coffee, bourbon
To pair with the ice cream sandwich, I went with another off-menu cocktail, this one prepared by the lovely Carlie Steiner. It was pretty fantastic: smooth, frothy, a perfect dessert cocktail that blended a delightful sweet spice with a great base of heady booze. Yum.

Ice Cream Sandwich [$6.00]
Finishing things off was probably the best traditional ice cream sandwich I've had, which was stuffed with what I wanna say was a vanilla-bourbon ice cream. The ice cream itself was on point, and I loved the cookie texture, which was substantial, yet almost falling-apart, with an apparent but not domineering sweetness. Think classic flavors, elevated, but still familiar and satisfying.

Even based on my short time here, I think it's safe to say that Barmini's one of the most exciting bars to debut this year, a place where traditional drinks are executed with a precision, flair, and reverence not commonly seen and new creations tantalize in even more indescribable manners--a real showcase of all that's possible these days in the cocktailian realm. And the food's pretty damn good too.

Birch and Barley / ChurchKey
1337 14th St NW, Washington, DC 20005
202.567.2576
www.birchandbarley.com
Thu 09/26/2013, 07:15p-09:20p

After a pretty much epic dinner at Minibar the previous night, I was in the mood for something a bit more low-key, and Birch & Barley (and its upstairs bar ChurchKey) fit the bill nicely. Located in Logan Circle just a stone's throw away from Etto (where I ate just two nights prior), the restaurant is best known for its vast, vast selection of beers (as in over 500), paired with the cooking of Chef Kyle Bailey.

About the Chef: The Aston, Pennsylvania native got his start in the industry at age 14 as a dishwasher at the nearby Brass Ladle Bistro, and after finishing high school, enrolled at the vaunted Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, graduating in 2000. Following, Bailey went the hotel route, cooking at resorts in the Caribbean and then in Florida, including Hotel St. Michel in Coral Gables and the Biltmore in Miami. He then moved to New York, spending three years at the celebrated, wine-focused Cru under Shea Gallante, the transitioned in 2007 to Dan Barber's Blue Hill at Stone Barns, where he really began taking an interest in pairing beer with food.

Bailey started his first Executive Chef position in December 2008, when he took the reins at the Michelin-starred Allen & Delancey, replacing Neil Ferguson. He left just months later, however, due to disagreements with management, and moved down to DC in July 2009 after being scouted by Neighborhood Restaurant Group co-owner Michael Babin. Bailey ended up taking over for Rustico's Frank Morales, who was supposed to helm Birch & Barley, and debuted the restaurant in September 2009 to considerable acclaim. He even picked up Food & Wine's "People's Best New Chef" award for the mid-Atlantic region in 2011.

Joining Bailey at Birch & Barley is Tiffany MacIsaac, NRG's Executive Pastry Chef who also happens to be his wife. The two met at Cru, where she was Pastry Chef, and he followed her to Allen & Delancey before getting hitched and settling in Washington. Rounding out the team is Beer Director Greg Engert, a 2010 F&W "Sommelier of the Year" and 2012 James Beard "Outstanding Wine & Spirits Professional" nominee who manages the suds at all of Neighborhood's properties.

Birch & Barley's menu features Bailey's new American stylings in both à la carte and tasting menu formats. Given that I was by myself, I went with the latter, a five-courser priced at a reasonable $60, plus $25 for the beer pairing, along with a couple supplements as well. Click for larger versions.

As mentioned above, B&B's beer list is pretty ridiculous, claiming 555 selections nominally divided into 500 bottles (broken down in a 30 page book by flavor profiles: Crisp, Hop, Malt, Roast, Tart & Funky, Fruit & Spice), 50 drafts (shown above), and five cask-conditioned ales (also above). If there's any place that has a larger beer selection, I haven't seen it. In addition, if beer isn't your thing, you'll find a smattering of cocktails, an interesting whisky list, as well as the requisite wines. Click for larger versions.

Amuse Bouche: Arancino
Things got off to a comfy start with this Parmesan-stuffed risotto ball, a hot, gooey bite of cheesy goodness with a delightfully crisp crust to boot.

1: Crudo of Mackerel | Summer Melon, Asian Peas, Prosciutto, Tarragon
Classique / Stillwater Artisanal / Maryland
A crudo of mackerel was clean and delicate, with just a whisper of fishiness tempered by the bright, fruity flavors present while the prosciutto added a pinch of salt to the fray. Rather tasty, and a good match to the light, herby, zesty, subtly funky nuances of the paired saison.

Bread Selection

Breads here are specially made by MacIsaac, and featured wonderfully salty pretzel, cornbread, and kalamata olive (my fav) varieties this evening, all served with honey and butter.

2: Pan Seared Grouper Cheeks | Tomato Water, Turnips, Cucumber, Limas, Mustard Greens
Konrad Polotmavý / Pivovary Vrstislavice / Czech Republic
The grouper, meanwhile, was the highlight of the meal for me, and probably the best preparation of the ingredient that I've ever had. The fish itself was perfect, with its firm, yet yielding consistency and immensely savory, satisfying relish that was beautifully countered by the lightness of the tomato water. At the same time, the lima beans imparted a textural component to the dish, and the mustards just an slight undercurrent of tartness. Great beer here as well, with the Polotmavý (a style that I don't think I'd had before) coming out malty and somewhat herbaceous, with a soft smoky quality to it.

Supplement: Grilled Octopus [$7.00] | Pickled Eggplant, Fingerling Potatoes, Herb Salad, Red Pearl Onions
Octopus, of course, was a must-try for me, so I added it on as a supplement. As we can see in the photo, there was a lovely char on this one, along with a palpable sweet spice that made sense with the main ingredient. Excellent use of potatoes as well, and I much appreciated the zip of the onions too. My only concern was that the tentacle could've stood to be more tender in places.

Supplement: Pork Cheek Tonkatsu [$7.00] | Gold Rice Porridge, Cucumber Kimchi, Fried Quail Egg, Pickled Roasted Red Peppers
Another supplement brought out this pork cheek, which was sticky and gelatinous, loaded with the deep, dark, unabashedly porky flavors that you'd expect. The rice porridge was superb in providing a semblance of balance to the dish, though I would've liked to have tasted more from the kimchi.

3: Duck Heart Ravioli | Castelvetrano Purée, Kalamata Olives, Heirloom Tomato, Foraged Wood Sorrel
Tank 7 / Boulevard Brewing Company / Missouri
Ravioli were firm to the bite, with the pasta hiding a filling of intensely earthy, satisfying duck heart. The duo of olives here actually worked really well in complementing the bird, while the tartness of sorrel was key as a moderating force in the dish. Given the heft of the course, the bright, bracing flavors of the accompanying ale were very apropos.

4: Roasted Rabbit Loin | Toasted Bulgur, Cauliflower Purée, Baby Carrots, Pine Nuts
Andechser Doppelbock Dunkel / Klosterbrauerei Andechs / Germany
The final savory tonight was a deft presentation of rabbit, which I found quite satisfying, no doubt one of the better versions of the protein I've experienced. Cauliflower served as an effective counterweight to the meat, and the carrot I found an intriguing focal point in the dish. Bulgur, meanwhile, played a foil both in terms of taste and texture, though I didn't need quite so much of it.

5: Rum-Soaked Melon | Horchata Spiced Tapioca, Cantaloupe Sorbet, Vanilla Chiffon, Micro Cilantro
Palo Santo Marron / Dogfish Head Craft Brewery / Delaware
Dessert was fetching, the bright, sweet fruit and sorbet augmented by the boozy weight of rum, yet enveloped by the subtly sugary-spicy notes of the tapioca and chiffon. A really nice mélange of flavors here, brought out especially well by the chocolate-y, yet spicy notes of the paired beer.

Ah, if only I didn't have to go to work following this meal, I would've undergone a much more thorough examination of the beers here! That being said, I did get a nice taste, and Bailey's cooking is nothing to sneeze at either. It's an approachable, straightforward, yet polished sort of style that plays well into today's market-driven mantra. The beer really does stand up to the food (or is it the other way around?), and the combo is something I wouldn't mind exploring more.

Vidalia Restaurant
1990 M St NW, Washington, DC 20036
202.659.1990
www.vidaliadc.com
Fri 09/27/2013, 06:20p-08:25p

The fourth restaurant on my recent DC culinary tour was certainly one of the longest-lived. Vidalia was opened back in 1993 by Chef Jeffrey Buben and wife Sallie, and restaurant quickly made a name for itself as the place to go for modern American Southern cookery. It's a bit of an institution, and has served as the training ground for a number of the area's most well-known chefs, including CityZen's Eric Ziebold, Restaurant Eve's Cathal Armstrong, Rogue 24's R.J Cooper (Chef de Cuisine from 2004 to 2010), and Newton's Table's Peter Smith (CdC from '98 to '04).

About the Chef: A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America (class of '78), Jeff Buben got his start, unsurprisingly, in New York City, working at the likes of Le Cygne, Le Chantilly, Sign of the Dove, and The Pierre hotel before relocating to DC in 1984. There, he cooked at La Bagatelle, Nicholas at the Mayflower hotel, the Four Seasons Georgetown, and then became Executive Chef at Occidental Grill when it reopened in 1986. Buben stayed there until 1993, when he would leave and start Vidalia, inspired by the culinary heritage of wife Sallie. The restaurant was a hit, and quickly garnered praise by Bon Appétit as one of their "Best New Restaurants."

Given the success of Vidalia, Buben debuted Bistro Bis, a modern French bistro, in 1998, located at the Hotel George on Capitol Hill. This was followed by a nod from James Beard in the form of the "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" award the next year. The Bubens, however, were content on just having two restaurants until very recently. In November 2012, they opened Woodward Table, a more casual American eatery with a takeout component, housed inside the historic Woodward Building apartments, just steps from the White House.

Vidalia Interior

Vidalia still resides in its original location, a space that's perhaps best known for being completely underground. The room is divided into a wine bar/lounge and a bi-level dining area, pictured above.

As far as Vidalia's menu goes, I opted for the five-course prix fixe at $80, comprised of a selection of the restaurant's more classic dishes. The "Chef Inspirations" features newer items from CdC Hamilton Johnson, and all plates can be ordered à la carte as well. Click for larger versions.

Amuse Bouche: roasted pepper panna cotta
First to arrive was a cuboid of roasted pepper panna cotta, which really showed off the light, vegetal brightness of the pepper, enhanced by just a smidge of sweetness to round things out.

Vidalia Breads

Vidalia's bread basket is widely known to be one of the City's best, and for good reason. Housemade varieties included the trademark onion focaccia, cornbread, and potato bread, all served with a soft, sweet butter.

maximilliano [$12.00] | cimarron reposado tequila, st. germain, riesling, grapefruit chips
To drink, I went with cocktails this evening, and the first to bat was the Maximilliano, a light, refreshing libation that I found citrus-y and sweet initially, but with a boozy kick and a delicious undercurrent of Riesling character. A tasty one.

1: yellowtail hamachi | avocado mousseline, grapefruit gelée, country ham, honey vinaigrette, melon sorbet
A crudo of sorts was delectable indeed, the yellowtail arriving meaty and substantial, with a subtle, fishy fattiness that was tempered by the liberal use of fruit in the dish. Nice temperature contrast here as well, but my favorite part were the pricks of saltiness imparted by the crispy bits of ham tossed in. Quite nice.

2: oyster pan roast | chesapeake oysters, swiss chard, country ham, leeks, champagne cream, brioche
From something light and delicate, we move to something verging on decadent, one of the best cooked oyster dishes I've had in fact. The oysters themselves were masterfully prepared, coming out silky and slick, their brine fortunately still intact. To that, the luxuriousness of the accompanying broth was spot on, a rich, hearty, creamy liquid that paired with the bivalves in stellar fashion, interjected by flits of salt from the ham, all while the chard and leeks added a countervailing bitterness to the dish.

Supplement: jumbo lump crab cake [$18.00] | english peas, apricots, pancetta, scallions, sweet pepper butter
Another customer favorite is the crab cake, which, admittedly, I would've ordered as a supplement even if it weren't. It was a good-looking cake to be sure, and taste-wise it was on point as well, bringing forth a bevy of crabby, saline flavors that I was rather fond of. The peas, meanwhile, added a great touch of brightness to the course, and I appreciated the salty pancetta as well, but I could've done without the apricot, which I found distractingly saccharine.

kitty hawk [$12.50] | eldorado rum, leopold bros maraschino, sour, honey syrup, bittermans tiki bitters, ginger shortbread
The next cocktail was the Kitty Hawk, which, somewhat confusingly, came with two tabs of ginger shortbread. The drink itself conveyed a honeyed sort of sweetness, but one underscored by the boozy kick of the rum. I enjoyed the cookies as well, but I'm still befuddled as to why they were included in the first place.

Supplement: berkshire pork trotter [$15.50] | cuttlefish, andouille sausage, piquillo peppers, black garlic grits, sunny side egg
My second supplement was another winner. The trotter itself was as hefty and pork-y as you'd expect--in other words, delish. Add to that the spicy sausage, creamy egg, and fun bits of cuttlefish, and you've got a tasty little dish, all grounded by a base of garlic grits. Yum.

3: shrimp and grits | anson mill's grits, vidalia onion, spinach, tasso ham, tomato, shellfish emulsion
Next up was Vidalia's most famous dish, its take on the Southern classic shrimp 'n' grits. The actual shrimp, though, were a touch overdone, but still very tasty, with a strong salinity to 'em, augmented by the shellfish emulsion, that paired just swimmingly with the grits. Loved the slight bit of heat from the tasso as well, not to mention the countering astringency from the spinach.

the rose and briar [$12.00] | combier red fruits, sloop betty vodka, peychauds bitters, cava
My final cocktail of the night came in the form of The Rose and Briar. It was definitely the sweetest of the bunch, with an almost jammy quality to it that was nicely moderated by the bitterness of the Peychaud's and a crisp backbone of booze.

4: crisp duroc pork shank | butter poached shrimp, acorn squash, country ham, rice grits, swiss chard, béarnaise
A shank of Duroc hog was as crisp as advertised, which I appreciated, but the crispiest parts also tended to be dry. That being said, the flavors here were good, with the undeniably pork-y smack of the shank expertly paired with those creamy grits and luscious béarnaise, all while the chard served to balance things out a bit. I really didn't think that the sweetness of the squash was needed, though.

Desserts here at Vidalia are the charge of Pastry Chef Donna Yuen, who took over in September from longtime incumbent Beverly Bates (now at Woodward Table). Click for larger versions.

5: georgia pecan pie | bourbon ice cream, praline lace crumble, caramel
I had to stick with the tried-and-true and go with the pecan pie, a sweet, nutty, boozy creation that was as classic and comforting as you'd expect.

Petit Fours

To close: various little mignardises, and a mint marshmallow.

Vidalia may not be as hip or happening as it was in its heyday, but I think the food's still worth a go, and the place obviously has lasting power. There's not much flash in the cooking per se, but there's plenty of substance in Buben and Hamilton's regional-American dishes, which blend Southern influences with just enough modernity to keep things interesting. It's a combination that's been sustaining the place for over 20 years, and I really don't see them stopping any time soon.

Rogue 24
922 N St NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.408.9724
www.rogue24.com
Sat 09/28/2013, 06:00p-08:30p

Rogue 24 Exterior

Other than Minibar, one of the places that I'd really been looking forward to trying in DC was Rogue 24. The brainchild of Chef RJ Cooper, Rogue is a bit of an odd duck, housed in a nearly 90-year-old, garage-like building situated along Blagden Alley. The place opened in 2011, and I'd actually wanted to visit back then, but the Chef's controversial views on restaurant photography ("intellectual property theft" and all that) kept me away for fear of being chewed out. However, Cooper eventually softened his stance and gave up his fight against technology in early 2012, thus paving the way for my experience this evening.

About the Chef: R.J. Cooper III hails from Detroit, and got the cooking itch at a young age, watching his mother and grandmother do their thing in the kitchen. During high school, he apprenticed at a local bake shop, and later enrolled at Kendall College's School of Culinary Arts in Evanston, IL. After graduating in 1991, he quickly relocated to Atlanta, finding work at the Ritz-Carlton Downtown under Daniel Schaffhauser (now at Tender Greens in Pasadena, interestingly), the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead under Guenter Seeger, and Brasserie Le Coze under Gilbert Le Coze. From there, Cooper transitioned to Le Bernardin, where Le Coze was Chef/Owner until his untimely death in 1994. He stayed on through Eric Ripert's tenure there, then moved to Alaska for three years, where he turned around the Crow's Nest restaurant at the Hotel Captain Cook in Anchorage.

Cooper moved to DC in the late 1990's, cooking at The Oval Room and New Heights before taking the reins at Toka Cafe in early 2002. He stayed there until October 2004, when he assumed the Chef de Cuisine position at Jeffrey Buben's iconic Vidalia. It was there where the he really began making a name for himself, securing StarChefs' "Rising Star Chef" award in 2006 before winning "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" from James Beard the following year. Things were going comfortably until 2010, when Cooper had a life-changing meal at Bryan Voltaggio's Table 21 at Volt. Afterward, he instituted his own 24-course menu entitled Vidalia 24, but soon decided to leave the venerable restaurant, clocking out in June.

The initial idea was to open a more casual concept called Pigtails, a nod to the Chef's infatuation with pork as well as his own twin daughters. However, an investor--none other than Hilda Staples (Volt/Lunchbox/Family Meal/Range with Voltaggio, Graffiato/Kapnos with Mike Isabella)--convinced him to go the Rogue 24 route. Cooper took a break from the restaurant later that year to challenge Marc Forgione on Iron Chef America, losing in a bell pepper battle, then did a Rogue 24 preview/pop-up in New York in April 2011. Rogue eventually opened on July 27th to considerable controversy, all because of a contentious contract that diners were forced to sign, one that forbade camera and cell phone use, and subjected patrons to stiff cancellation penalties. The contract was quickly revised after the initial outrage, then removed altogether when reservations were transitioned over to the CityEats system. Things, however, continued to be rough for Cooper. His pastry team of Chris Ford and Gregory Baumgartner left in September, followed out the door by GM-slash-Sommelier Matthew Carroll in November. If that wasn't bad enough, the Chef soon found out that he had to undergo open-heart surgery in January to take care of a life-threatening genetic heart defect.

The surgery, fortunately, ended up going well, and in Cooper's absence, a slew of chefs took turns running the kitchen at Rogue 24, including heavy hitters such as Voltaggio and even José Andrés. After these so-called "Rogue Sessions," the Chef returned in March, and soon added on a shorter eight-course Evolution menu to complement the existing 16- and 24-course options. Further retooling following in August, when the 16-courser was axed, replaced by a four-course prix fixe with larger portions. The restaurant also announced a "gastro-bar concept" called RogueSpirits that was supposed to take over the space next door; however, this eventually morphed into SpiritsBar, a four-seat, reservations-required bar in the back of Rogue.

Currently, the team here at Rogue 24 includes Chef de Cuisine Mark McDonnell, Pastry Chef Giane Cavaliere, and Chef-Tender Bryan Tetorakis, who runs the aforementioned SpiritsBar. These days, Cooper's busy working on Gypsy Soul, his second solo project that's going to be set in the Mosaic District, a retail-residential development in Virginia's Fairfax/Merrifield area. In March, Cooper cooked a preview dinner at the James Beard House, but the restaurant is apparently held up in permitting hell, and is now targeting a spring 2014 debut.

Rogue 24 offers up three menu options: the 24-course Journey for $135 (what I had), the 16-course Progression for $115, and the four-course Prix Fixe for $75, all available with beverage pairings ranging in price from $55 to $120. And, as mentioned above, there's also the four-seater SpiritsBar and its mini tasting-cum-cocktail menu, which is ostensibly also available at the RogueSalon out front. Click for a larger version.

crossroads [$12.00] | belle meade bourbon/pink pepper/hibiscus/cola/lime
Given that I had work almost immediately following the meal, I eschewed the wine pairing in favor of a few of Bryan Tetorakis' cocktails. The first was the Crossroads, which had a medicinal tinge to it initially, laced with the tartness of lime. This then transitioned to the sugary-boozy influences from the Bourbon, while the finish was all about a sweet spiciness taking over. A very cool evolution of flavors in this long drink.

porcini

1: porcini | meringue/chicken liver/xo vinegar
This little dollop comprised a porcini meringue encasing chicken liver and sherry vinegar. It was a delicious start to the meal, the mushroom growing in intensity before giving way to the sweet, earthy essence of liver. A winning combination.

puff

2: puff | prawn/whitefish/ossetra/dill
Cooper's elevated prawn cracker was divine, the slight ocean-y taste of the crisp chip beautifully augmented by the in-your-face saltiness of caviar. I wanted a whole bag of these.

kushi

3: kushi | cucumber/finger lime caviar
A singular Kusshi oyster showed off a strong salinity, one counteracted by the tangy vesicles of finger lime, all while the cucumber imbued the course with a clean, refreshing finish.

pinenut

4: pinenut | arctic char roe/dill
Shortbread topped with char roe and dill was pretty fantastic, the sweetness of the cookie moving beautifully to the interplay between salty-smoky and herbaceous flavors.

5: chicharone | b.b.q. spice
Crunchy chicharrónes of pork belly, dusted with chili, were delish, the intensely earthy, porcine flavors here balanced by a creeping bit of spice.

shiso

6: shiso | rau-ram
A fried leaf of purple shiso was surprisingly substantial, and conveyed a rather profound savoriness to it that melded flawlessly with the piquant aioli of Vietnamese coriander.

7: lick of caviar
Smeared on a sort of palette (held in place via pinky) were a blini purée and various constituents of caviar. I was instructed to lick the plate in one fell swoop, and in doing so, the classic flavors of the roe were dutifully, accurately, and whimsically portrayed.

hamachi

8: hamachi | fresno pepper/puffed barley/coconut/coriander
Cured yellowtail--served with a coconut espuma, microcilantro, puffed barley, and fresno chile--was delicious, and smart at the same time. The fish really worked well as a base to the dish, the coconut coming to the forefront initially before transitioning to contrasting flavors of lime, pepper, and what I believe was black bean.

avocado

9: avocado | sake salmon roe/cilantro/togarashi/lavash
Avocado brûlée arrived smudged atop a rock, dotted with ikura, togarashi, lemon, and olive oil. There was such a great amalgam of flavors here, of complementary creamy, tangy, and smoky nuances that came together in concert--I wanted to lick the rock when I was done. My only quibble? The lavash wasn't absolutely necessary, and seemed a touch stale to boot.

sepia

10: sepia | samphire/potato/ink/lime
Cuttlefish was pretty revelatory, probably the best presentation of the ingredient I've had in fact. Texturally, it was spot on, with a supple snap to it that I loved. Meanwhile, contrasting thrusts of potato, romesco, squid ink, and sea grass resulted in a harmony of seemingly classic, yet somehow modern flavors that perfectly highlighted the sepia.

bro hymm [$14.00] | botanist gin/apple brandy/amère nouvelle/pale ale/ginger
An apparent ode to Pennywise, the Bro Hymm was a tasty one as well: ginger-y and herb-y on the nose, with plenty of sweet apple and bitterness on the palate.

urchin

11: urchin | rice/seaweed/coffee
Next up: a bowl of uni with coffee espuma, lemon, and black rice. The dish was instantly Japanese-y in character, with the unflappable combo of urchin and seaweed conveyed against the astringent zip of the coffee, all while the rice imparted a lovely crunch and savor to things.

12: foie gras | consommé/honey/ice lettuce
Foie gras was expertly prepared, and displayed all the richness and lushness that you'd expect, set against the sweetness of the duck-onion broth and honeycomb crisps. It was a classic, effective combination, gorgeously balanced by the greenery on the plate. However, I would've liked a less crunchy consistency on the honeycomb, which seemed jarring at times texturally.

13: pigtails | bitter herbs/smoked peach gel
Pigtails (a nod to the Chef's former restaurant concept mayhaps?) managed to deliver in a big way as well. They were basically pork rillettes, a tender, satisfying, intensely piggy presentation of the star ingredient that paired superbly with the sweet-smoky peach gel and counterbalancing zing of the mustard.

salsify

14: salsify | oyster leaf/seaweed/oyster gel/salsify puree
Yaki salsify arrived in a bed of miso soil, along with oyster leaf and a purée of itself. Think an unabashedly earthy, smoky umami bomb, moderated by the various greenery on the plate.

lamb

15: lamb | sprouted lentils/wild yeast/mustard/rye
The lamb tartar was recommended by a server at the restaurant, and it turned out to be one of my favorites as well, and in fact, one of the best tartars I've had, ever. The gamy relish of the lamb was on proud display here, masterfully counteracted by the earthiness of those lentils, while the rice espuma and sorrel served as a balancing element. Really, a beautiful, somewhat contemplative set of flavors going on here.

steps ascend [$12.00] | flor de caña/bryan's tonic/pineapple/paprika/cilantro
Next to imbibe was the Steps Ascend, loaded with plenty of light, bright cilantro flavors and a body of tangy, boozy, and slightly astringent notes that all worked together in harmony. Fun and breezy.

16: matsutake | caramelized béchamel/wild rice
It was the start of matsutake season, so I was happy to see them presented, served here with a ginger gel, strawberry spinach, and black rice. The intense, woody perfume of the mushrooms was a joy to experience, and made perfect sense against the leafy bits on the plate. The rice, meanwhile, grounded the dish, and also provided an interesting textural component.

snails

17: snails | potato/garlic threads
Another standout for me were the snails, some of the tastiest I've had no doubt. They were actually of the basil-fed variety, and set here in a potato-based broth. I loved the herbaceousness that these little guys had, which paired with the rich, heady, onion-broth in stellar fashion. Great bits of gnocchi in there, too.

18: sorrel stems | horseradish juice/red cabbage
Next, sorrel was plated in a red cabbage gazpacho, resulting in a creamy, tangy, somewhat bitter blast of flavors that were smartly accented by the savory veal(?) "fibers" present.

pigeon

19: pigeon | rice/offal/orange/hazelnut
The last savory brought out an excellent rendition of squab, one shown with a wild rice "paella" and orange espuma. The bird itself was intensely aromatic, and just full of flavor. I found it delicious alone, and even better when taken with the hearty rice (which I could've easily eaten a whole bowl of) and slight citrus-y tang of orange.

20: goat curd | nasturtium/espelette/sour dough
Acting as the cheese course was a puddle of chèvre, garnished with lavash, nasturtium, and espelette. The curd I rather liked, its sweet, tangy taste working hand-in-hand with the crunchy, savory bits of sourdough, all while the nasturtium lent an overarching brightness to the course. Pretty neat.

amalie

amalie [$12.00] | cruzan rum/cardamaro/banana/demerara/cardamom/maraschino
To pair with dessert, I ordered up an Amalie, a surprisingly stiff, yet saccharine concoction with an almost tropical essence to it, underscored by hints of banana.

21: cucumber | tapioca/pineapple/coconut
Time for the sweet stuff. Here, cucumber was presented in both meringue and gel forms, along with pineapple, coconut, and a rice espuma. The key were was that interplay between cucumber and coconut, a cool, light combo that just worked, tarted up by pinpoints of pineapple.

22: blueberry | vanilla/pistachio
The blueberry dessert--with moscato cream, vanilla panna cotta, and a lime air--was even better. That panna cotta especially was pretty amazing, showing of classic flavors with a countervailing citric tang, a lovely complement to the sugary blueberries in the dish. Loved the nutty, salty, crunchy bits of pistachio, too.

23: strawberry | chocolate/balsamic
The most substantial dessert of the trio was probably my favorite as well. Here, a chocolate-raspberry mousse was joined by strawberry-balsamic sorbet and dark chocolate crumbles. It was a satisfying, though not entirely unexpected commixture of fruity, sweet flavors against a subtle chocolate base, with the crumbles actually adding a wonderful savory hit to things.

24: happy endings | little things/small bites
Finally, the requisite mignardises: guava shortbread, kalamansi pâte de fruit, peanut butter-fudge, orange-chocolate (my favorite of the fivesome), and white chocolate-coconut.

All the drama surrounding the place aside, Cooper and his team really did deliver a great meal. The cooking was contemplative at times, but delicious almost always, a commingling of disparate influences, of classic flavor profiles and modernist technique that somehow comes together to form a cohesive whole. I'm really glad I made the decision to come out here. Think of Rogue 24 as a break from the ordinary, but still grounded in tradition, and, at $135, think of it as a downright bargain too.

Makoto Restaurant
4822 MacArthur Blvd NW, Washington, DC 20007
202.298.6866
www.makotorestaurantdc.com
Sun 09/29/2013, 06:00p-08:10p

Makoto Exterior

After having dinner at one of DC's most progressive restaurants the previous night, I now went to one of the area's most traditional, and certainly one of the longest standing. Makoto opened in 1992, and was sort of groundbreaking for the era, exposing the City to old-school, kaiseki-inspired Japanese cooking that was pretty much absent at the time. This shoebox of a space, perhaps best known for its slippers-only policy (your shoes are exchange at the foyer), has been family owned and operated since its inception. The first chef was Yoshiaki Itoh, who ran the place from inception until his retirement at the end of 2011 (unfortunately, he passed away just this past September). In 2012, Yoshi's son Susumu "Gene" Itoh took the reins, leaving his previous occupation as a health care recruiting consultant, and the restaurant doesn't appear to have skipped a beat.

As far as Makoto's menu goes, it's a seasonally-changing progression of eight to ten courses at a base price of $70, plus additional sashimi supplements starting at $10 and going all the way up to $50. You can also order à la carte, but I wouldn't recommend it, and there's also a lunch option, too. To drink, you'll find a small selection of sakes and wines, as well as a smattering of beers. Click for larger versions.

Sake seemed like the right choice of beverage this evening, so I opted for a carafe of the Bon Nama Genshu, Junmai Daiginjyo [$65]. I rather liked this one, finding it viscous in body, with a marked sweetness intermingled with alcoholic notes, all over an undercurrent of rice-y nuances.

1: Kabura Mushi & Matsutake
The meal commenced with a duet of dishes. The first was a kabura mushi, a mushimono of steamed turnip with a miso and walnut sauce. Think mild, and slightly firm on the turnip, with the sauce adding a nutty, earthy component to the mix, brightened up by the use of snow peas. The matsutakes, meanwhile, came with momiji oroshi (spicy radish) ponzu and was much more intense, with the mushrooms' woody nose and great crunch working well against the spicy, zesty notes present.

2: Mushi Tai
Steamed snapper was served with shiitake and tofu. The fish itself conveyed a subtle, yet focused brine that really worked for me, countered by the soft, delicate tofu while the veggies added a bit of levity to things. Nice weight from the mushroom, too, and I liked how that tangy sauce sort of tied everything together.

Sashimi

3: Sashimi
Here was the optional upgraded tsukuri course, which rang in at an additional $50 and comprised eight items total, all served with fresh-grated wasabi:

Amaebi - Creamy and sweet, though I would've preferred a snappier, crunchier variety of shrimp.
Toro - Melty, fatty, and nicely opened up by a dab of wasabi and house-made soy.
Ikura - Bursts of salty and smoky goodness, tempered by the use of cucumber.
Shima Aji - Delicate and slightly firm to the bite, and excellent with a touch of soy sauce.
Uni - Very lush and sugary initially, but with a lingering brine toward the back end.
Sake - Firm and crisp, with a creeping salinity and a marked fattiness.
Mebaru - A rarity in sashimi form, rockfish was pleasantly mild, and greatly enhanced with a bit of wasabi.
Tai - A quintessential presentation of bream, delicate and soft-spoken.

4: Soft Shell Crab
Next, for my agemono course I had a pretty unique presentation of soft shell crab, one coated in rice cracker, fried, and served with streaks of chile salt, sansho, and green tea salt. I loved the texture and crunch on it, which reminded me of the pretzel-crusted oysters I'd had not long ago at Salt Air. Taste-wise, the crab showed off a subtle brine that worked well with the rice cracker, and was really brought out via a squirt of lemon. The trio of salts were also on point, the chili presenting a tinge of heat, the green tea a touch of astringency, and the sansho a multifaceted spice with a slight numbing quality.

5: Tara Saikyoyaki
The yakimono course brought me grilled black cod, marinated in saikyo miso, Makoto's take on the ubiquitous dish popularized by Nobu Matsuhisa. It was a perfect presentation of the classic, with the fish coming out hot, flaky, and buttery, deftly set off by just a touch of sweetness and the bitterness of the charred bits. Very tasty.

6: Shabu-Shabu
Now, for some shabu shabu, with salmon, scallop, shrimp, radish, and udon. I started off with the scallop, which was great, but unfortunately I left the shrimp in for too long, so it came out a tad overcooked, but was still enjoyable nonetheless. Salmon, meanwhile, was soft, lush, and saline, a great foil to the bitter cuts of radish, while the noodles served as a comforting finish to the course.

Sushi

7: Sushi
Sushi formed the penultimate course in the set menu, and three varieties of nigiri were offered. In the front was aburi sake, basically a partially grilled salmon that was fantastic, with a great smoky character that perfectly balanced the fat in the bite. Next was yellowtail, a classic presentation that really called for a dab of soy sauce, while bringing up the rear was the flounder filet, which conveyed a good balance of tangy, yet slightly smoky flavors.

Ryokucha

A steaming cup of green tea marked the end of the meal proper.

With the set menu finished, I had the option of ordering additional sushi courses, which I gleefully took advantage of. Click for a larger version.

Sushi Supplement
Sushi was presented on one platter, rather than individually, which was unfortunate:

Shima Aji [$10] - I started with the striped jack, a great example of the fish with a spot on texture and a lovely sweet-ish character; even better with a touch of 'sabi.
Sawara [$6] - Spanish mackerel was lightly cooked, and thus displayed a satisfyingly meaty bite; excellent when taken with the accompanying yuzukosho.
Unagi [$5] - Utterly traditional, and just what you'd want, a sweet, fatty presentation of freshwater eel.
Tamago [$3] - Sweet and cool, with a deft seaweed counter.
Negitoro Temaki [$15] - Last up was the classic tuna-scallion handroll, a textbook representation of the dish with the fattiness of the tuna flawlessly moderated by the zesty bits of negi mixed within.

8: Sake Kasu Ice Cream
Dessert comprised a delightful sake lees ice cream with persimmon. It was really simple, but also really good, with the boozy, ricey ice cream pairing gorgeously with the sugary bits of fruit. Nice!

Makoto's one of the few bastions of old-school Japanese culinary tradition in the DC area, and in terms of the food, I didn't really have any serious complaints, finding the cooking clean and classic in essence, and very ingredient-focused and subtle, just as it should be. I do feel there's room for improvement in terms of the experience, though. The actual service was efficient and cordial, but I'd really like to have some more interactions with the itamae; I was sitting at the bar, and nary a word was said the entire two-hour meal. The cooks were partially hidden behind some red curtains, and perhaps that was meant to quell any attempt at conversation? I'd also like to see sushi courses served individually, which is pretty much the norm when sitting at the bar, and the menu could stand to be simplified as well. In the end though, Makoto's been open for over 20 years, so I don't exactly expect things to change.

Kimukatsu Restaurant
4130 Sepulveda Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230
310.876.1436
www.kimukatsu.com/kimukatsu_eng
Thu 10/10/2013, 6:30p-08:10p

The first real dinner following my recent marathon trip to DC was here at Kimukatsu, an outpost of a well-known Japanese tonkatsu chain that debuted in September. The company operates multiple locations in Japan, Seoul, and even Honolulu (including a takeaway stall called Kimukatsutei), but this is their first mainland US location; a sister restaurant is supposed to open on Sawtelle in the coming weeks. What sets them apart is the way that they construct their cutlets. Instead of using the typical whole pork loin or filet, the meat is sliced thin and stacked 25 layers high, then coated in the usual panko and fried, resulting in a very different eating experience.

Above, we see Kimukatsu's current menu, which features six variations of the signature pork cutlet, as well as numerous sides and accompaniments. The drink selection is a bit disappointing at the moment, but the owners are indeed working on acquiring a beer and wine license and will eventually be offering up sake-based cocktails. Click for larger versions.

The Kimura Ramune [$4] was clearly the most interesting of the beverages being offered, its soft, refreshing, vaguely-citrusy flavors serving as a good match to the meat-heavy courses to follow.

Potato Salad [$6.50] | Classic Japanese style potato salad with sausage
I'm a sucker for potato salad, and Kimukatsu's certainly fit the bill. I found it lush, creamy, somewhat thin, with the sausage adding a definite heft to the dish. My favorite part, though, was the use of the crunchy, super savory bits on top (bacon?).

Tatsuta Age [$6.50] | Japanese Style Fried Chicken
Fried chicken was a must-try, natch. Compared to the more common kara-age, the tatsuta-age here emphasizes the use of a shoyu-based marinade, and also utilizes potato starch in place of wheat flour. The end result is a thoroughly juicy, tender bird, with a more substantial depth of flavor than one typically finds. Very nice.

Agedashi Tofu [$5.50] | Deep Fried Tofu with Sweet Sauce
I was curious about Kimukatsu's age dofu as well. Taste-wise, it was on point, with the delicate flavors of the tofu melding well with the classic, comforting nuances of its accompanying tentsuyu broth. Texturally, though, I wanted it to be crisper to the bite, instead of the sort of gooey, mucilaginous consistency it demonstrated.

Ground Kobe Beef Katsu [$5.00] | Fried 100% Kobe Beef
A menchi-katsu of "Kobe" beef was delicious: juicy and hot, just brimming with bovine flavors dutifully tempered by the subtle astringency of what I believe was scallion.

Fried Prawn [$7.00]
Sticking with the fried theme, the ebi furai was also a winner, the shrimp coming out particularly tender, with a delicate brine that worked out well with a blast of lemon and a dab of the included tartar-like condiment (which I believe was the same used in the nanban below).

Rice Set [$4.50] | Rice, Miso Soup and Japanese Pickles
At this point, we were done with the appetizers and ready for tonkatsu. Accoutrements consisted of white rice, a classic miso soup, shredded cabbage, and some crunchy, tart tsukemono pickles.

The cutlets, of course, can be purchased separately, but we went for the Value Combo of three for $39 (a $6 savings).

Original [$15.00]
Naturally, we had to give Kimukatsu's Original a shot given that it was our first time here. It was quite unlike any other tonkatsu I've had. The meat was uncommonly light, almost fluffy, with a subtle, yet very porky savor and a juicy, yet somehow dry consistency to it. The batter was appropriately airy as well, giving the cutlet a surprising verve that I appreciated. I can definitely see the appeal here.

Nanban

Nanban [$18.00] | Flavor with a Sweet Ponzu Soy Sauce with Tartar Sauce
To the standard cutlet above, the Nanban variation offered up a tart 'n' tangy tartar sauce. It was a creamy, fairly substantial addition that definitely imparted a more aggressive flavor profile to the meat.

Garlic

Garlic [$15.00]
Last up was the Garlic incarnation, which was like the standard cutlet, but with a very subtle undercurrent of garlicky goodness.

Shingen Ice [$5.50] | Vanilla ice cream Topped with Sweetened Soy Bean Powder and Brown Sugar Cane syrup
Dessert included a bowl of vanilla aisukurimu, doused with mitsu syrup and a sprinkle of kinako roasted soy flour. Taken together, it was all rather pleasing, the sweetness of the particularly thick ice cream augmented by the sugary syrup, all while the soy powder added a nutty, tempering counterpoint to the dish.

Black Sesame Pudding with Whipped Cream [$5.50]
Here, the pudding itself had a light, liquid-y consistency to it that I'm not sure I liked. Its taste, meanwhile, I found very delicate, so that dollop of inky black sesame was key in providing assertiveness to the dessert.

I walked away from Kimukatsu pretty satisfied. Their signature pork cutlet was impressive, one of the stronger preparations I've had I'm sure, and the rest of the menu delivered as well for the most part. The place does need a liquor license, pronto, and another thing that I'd like to see is some sort of curry-based katsu kare variant on the menu (a lunch-only option at the moment from what I understand). Otherwise, things seem to be coming along quite nicely here.

Sushi Zo Downtown
334 S Main St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.935.8409
Fri 10/11/2013, 07:10p-09:20p

Zo Exterior

Since opening in 2006, Keizo Seki's Sushi Zo has resolutely established itself as one of LA's most beloved bastions of sushi, known for its pristine fish, warm rice, and marathon omakases, not to mention the Chef's sometimes reserved demeanor. Personally, I'd always thought that the place was top-notch, easily among the best in the City, so I was pretty excited to hear that a Downtown location, simply named "Zo," was opening up in September, set on the ground floor of the Medallion complex. A visit, naturally, was in order.

Unlike at the original restaurant, where going à la carte was a possibility at a table, it appears that the new Zo is an omakase-only sort of affair. I didn't try to test this, however, as I took a seat at the 10-seater bar and let the Chefs do their thing, which resulted in a 34-course tasting priced at a not-unreasonable $165.97. As such, I didn't see an actual menu, save for the beverage list above, which featured a smattering of higher-end sakes, two beers, and Luis Roederer Champagne, Louis' Spanish cousin apparently. Click for a larger version.

Orion

To start, we opted for a round of Orion [$6.50], sort of your typical Japanese beer--always a crisp, refreshing, and safe choice with sushi.

1: Kumamoto
Let the eating begin. From Washington state came none other than my go-to oyster. It was a shining example of all that's great about Kumamotos, with its creamy, yet somehow crisp bite and lingering brine, softened by the application of zesty ponzu, scallion, and momiji oroshi.

2: Mebachi Sashimi
Slices of Boston bigeye were meaty and satisfying, with a palpable, umami-rich depth courtesy of the soy sauce, along with a smart exclamation point of wasabi toward the end.

3: Akachan Awabi
Baby abalone from Morro Bay was split between our party of three, its crisp bite and sweet salinity tempered by blasts of salt and spice from the accompanying yuzukosho.

4: Uni Ika Somen
Baby squid noodles, tossed with sea urchin and dusted with truffle salt, were divine. They were absolutely delightful texturally--crisp, yet supple--with a delicate savor to them that blended beautifully with the lush, creamy, salt-laced roe, all while the earthy veil of truffle encompassed the entire dish.

Kurage

5: Kurage
Japanese jellyfish was next, and it was all about a study in textures, its slippery, crunchy consistency a delight for the palate. In terms of taste, the kurage didn't offer up much, so the combo of sweet vinegar miso paste and savory seaweed was absolutely key.

Gari

The appearance of pickled ginger signaled the start of our nigiri gauntlet.

Hirame

6: Hirame
We commenced with something mild: East Coast halibut, sprinkled with salt. I found this one super tender, with a delicate base of flavor highlighted by the interplay between the shio and an almost citrus-y tartness present.

Binnaga

7: Binnaga
Albacore arrived doused in ponzu. Think focused, classic flavors, with a great accent piece from the ginger-scallion combination.

Hamachi

8: Hamachi
Japanese yellowtail was definitely a cut above what you typically get, with a clean, not overtly fatty character and an almost "hammy" savor to it.

Aji

9: Aji
"Spanish mackerel" (really horse mackerel--I still don't get why they switch up the names all the time) was a great example of the fish, with a refined brine that went superbly with the integrating zing of the ginger.

Hotate

10: Hotate
Scallop from the East Coast was spot on: firm, yet yielding to the bite, with a mild sweetness and undercurrent of salinity that transitioned seamlessly to the heat of wasabi on the close.

11: Mebachi Chutoro
The Boston big eye from above reappeared, this time in chutoro form. There was a distinct sweetness here that I rather liked, with a medium amount of marbling that was nicely set off by the depth and richness imparted by the soy sauce.

12: Koban Aji
Pompano from the East Coast was a rare treat, something that I believe I'd only had at Nana San (one of OC's best) prior. The crux here was that topping of roasted shishito, which imparted a fantastic smokiness and piquancy to the fish that was pure genius.

13: Kanpachi
Here was amberjack, as firm and substantial as you'd expect, with a gorgeous hit of yuzukosho and wasabi to go along with the fish's undertone of sweetness.

14: Kinmedai
The golden eye snapper was delicious, probably one of my favorites in fact, with its surprising luxuriousness and even more surprising saccharine quality on the finish.

Ankimo

15: Ankimo
Monkfish liver came out warm, with a very delicate, subtle liver-y essence to it that I really liked, especially when paired with the contrasting combo of nori and negi. Interestingly, I swear I tasted flashes of Jack in the Box tacos when eating this, not necessarily a bad thing mind you (at three for 99 cents, they were a college staple of mine).

Sanma

16: Sanma
Pacific saury, or mackerel pike, was another rarity, and a highlight as well. The fish was uncommonly fatty, oily even, with a firm body and a great counterweight from the ginger and scallion. Some beautiful scoring on the sanma's silvery skin here, too.

Tara

17: Tara
Black cod arrived seared and accompanied by a miso vinegar paste. I loved the soft, silken texture of the fish here, as well as its char savor. The miso imparted a definite sweetness into the mix, so you had to be careful not to use too much of it, lest you mask the main ingredient.

Kurodai

18: Kurodai
From Greece came black snapper, garnished with truffle salt. Texturally, the fish was a unique blend of creamy, yet firm, while its relish was subtle, duly enhanced by the earthy overtones in the course.

Tako

19: Tako
Steamed octopus hailed from Spain, and was drizzled with eel sauce. It was surely one of the strongest presentations of tako I've had, with the meat coming out tender and wonderfully smoky, moderated by the sugary sauce and a burst of 'sabi zip.

With the beers all drunk up, we moved on to sake, specifically the Senchuhassaku [$70], which, coincidentally enough, was the exact same bottle we had on our first Sushi Zo visit. It was a tokubetsu junmai-shu class sake from Kochi prefecture's Tsukasabotan brewery, and I found it very light in body, with a distinct floral character over a base of dry, rice-y nuances.

Sawara

20: Sawara
The term sawara should refer to Spanish mackerel (itself oft mislabeled as aji), but here were told that this was king mackerel. Nomenclature aside, this was a delectable little bite: soft and sweet, with a great ginger-y smack.

Mirugai

21: Mirugai
Geoduck was crunchy and unabashedly ocean-y, just as you'd expect, but also conveyed an apparent sweetness to it that went along great with the pinpoints of salt in the course.

22: Sumi Ika
Ink squid was all that you'd want it to be: sticky and creamy on the palate, with a soft sweetness to it that melded well with the heat of wasabi.

Madai

23: Madai
Red sea bream came with a brush of yuzu, its mild savor complemented by the competing forces of tangy citrus and spicy 'sabi.

24: Shima Aji
Yellow striped jack is always a winner, with a wonderful soy-tinged depth to it and a real complexity compared to some of the other fish.

Amaebi

25: Amaebi
Sweet shrimp from Santa Barbara was delightfully snappy, and full of clean, sweet-saline flavors that made perfect sense with a dab of soy.

26: Uni & Ikura
Next up was some egg-on-egg action. Uni wasn't from Santa Barbara as you'd expect, but rather was sourced further south, from San Diego. It was sweet, but not as sweet as the SB variety, and had a steelier minerality to it that showed traces of its Hokkaido brethren. The salmon roe, meanwhile, was a marinated, classic example of the gunkanmaki, its saltiness arriving in glorious bursts of brine.

Anago

27: Anago
Sea eel made a strong case for itself. I found it hearty and satisfying, with a great char astringency to it that melded well with the sugary sauce drizzled on top.

Sake

28: Sake
Scottish salmon was presented with a rectangle of translucent marinated kelp. Think sweet and oh-so fatty, with the seaweed serving as a piquant balance to the lushness of the fish.

29: Akachan Madai
Baby sea bream was boiled briefly in hot water, which resulted in a particularly soft texture and a surprisingly complexity rendered in yuzu and salt.

30: Chutoro Temaki
And the hand rolls begin. A tube of medium fatty tuna was creamy on the palate, with a strong hit of wasabi and a crisp, countering seaweed wrapper.

31: Watarigani Temaki
The blue crab hand roll (first popularized by Sushi Nozawa) was even better, with the sweet, cool crab on proud display, perfectly paired with the rice and nori.

Tamago

32: Tamago
You always end with tamago, and so here we were. It was a traditional rendition of the egg omelet--sweet, cool, and dense, with a ham-like savor that lingered on just below the surface.

33: Misoshiru
A classic, comforting miso soup was well received.

34: Yuzu Jusu
As always, a meal at Zo ends with a shot of yuzu juice, a sweet, sour, utterly refreshing liquid that doubles as an effective palate cleanser.

The Zo team: Keizo-san, Nori-san, Masa-san (our itamae for the night, a former Nana San chef who moved up to LA to work here).

All in all, a fantastic experience (and bonus points for running into Food Club Captain Eric Wareheim, who was seated at a table behind us). Have no doubt, the bar for sushi in Downtown has been raised, far, far beyond anything else that's being offered at the moment. There's nothing that even comes close in the area. In fact, I think I like this place even better than the original Sushi Zo. The fish, the shari, even the service, everything was pretty much spot on. It was one of my best sushi experiences ever in LA, and to top it all off, Keizo-san seemed rejuvenated, reinvigorated, with a friendlier demeanor (shared by all three chefs) that made the meal all the better. Sushi fiends, this is one that has to be on your hit list.

Sushi Zo, unfortunately, never really did desserts, so the last time we were there, we headed to the Rite Aid across the parking lot to pick up some Thrifty brand ice cream in order to cap off the night. To keep with tradition, we located a Rite Aid at 5th and Broadway and walked on over following dinner.

On the way, however, we stumbled upon Peddler's Creamery and decided to stop in. I opted for a Double Scoop [$6.50] comprised of their vegan Mexican Chocolate and Cardamom, which I also believe was vegan. The chocolate was tasty enough, but, unsurprisingly, didn't quite have the lushness or richness of a classic ice cream given its lack of dairy. This austerity was more apropos in the Cardamom, which showed off a wonderful sweet spice that I rather liked, especially when taken in concert with the chocolate.

Rite Aid (Thrifty) Ice Cream

We did eventually reach our initial destination though. Again, I went with a Double Dip [$2.49] of Chocolate Malted Krunch (my childhood fav) and Black Cherry, the combo I enjoyed last time. I don't think Thrifty's and its signature cylindrical scoops will ever get old. It's a sort of old-school style of ice cream that always brings me back--a perfect, if somewhat nostalgic conclusion to the evening.

Taberna Arroz y Vi
1403 2nd St, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.393.3663
www.tabernala.com
Thu 10/17/2013, 07:35p-10:00p

I finally made it out to the new Taberna Arros y Vi, Michael Cardenas' Spanish concept that's been in work since early 2011, when it was slated to be housed in the old Beacon building in Culver City (now the site of Evan Funke's Bucato). However, that deal fell through, so in April of last year it was announced that Cardenas would instead be taking over Tudor House on 2nd, with Perfecto Rocher (who was then biding his time at Lazy Ox, serving as a replacement for opening chef Josef Centeno) at the helm. The place was originally scheduled for a late 2012 debut, but in October last year the Chef had a falling out with Cardenas and left both the Ox and Taberna.

Rocher was replaced by Travis Chase from The Tin Table in Seattle, and went on to work briefly for the Hermosa Restaurant Group (a planned Spanish eatery in the old Hibachi location) before decamping this October to head up Adam Fleischman's upcoming smoke.oil.salt (at the former Angeli Caffe space, which was supposed to house Casey Lane's Itri). Chase, meanwhile, was supplanted in May (he's now works for Nordstrom) by Hiroyuki Fujita of the dearly departed Fat Spoon, which brings us back to Taberna. The end result of all the chef shuffling was that the restaurant ended up opening in the summer, with Verite Mazzola, a longtime LA dining veteran, in charge.

About the Chef: Born in 1970 to an Italian family, Mazzola is a third generation Californian who started her culinary career at age 19, working for none other than Wolfgang Puck. She went to school at the Culinary Institute of America out in New York, but ended up making her way back to Los Angeles, working as a pastry chef. One of her first stops was at Drago, which was followed up by a tenure at Chasen's Beverly Hills in 1997. Mazzola went up north the following year, cooking at Rubicon and One Market in San Francisco before leaving for New York in 1999. There, she served as pastry chef for Michael Otsuka (former Exec Chef at Patina, back when it was still at the Providence address) at his place Thalia. During this period, she managed to cook at the James Beard house twice, once with Otsuka and once for their "Chefs & Champagne 2000" event.

However, Mazzola eventually moved back to LA in late 2000, finding work in pastry at Cafe del Rey and then Napa Valley Grille (which both had the same parent company, Constellation Concepts). This was followed by a stint at Whist at the Viceroy, and by the middle of 2005, she had taken on the Pastry Chef role at Govind Armstrong's Table 8, and would later move to Miami to open up Table 8 in the Regent South Beach hotel. Interestingly, Mazzola then hooked up with Armstrong's former compatriot Ben Ford in '06 (they were partners at Chadwick back in the early 2000's) and became the opening Sous Chef-slash-Pastry Chef at Ford's Filling Station.

She then began consulting, and partnered with Blau + Associates on the launch of both the Huntley Hotel and the Terranea Resort, and even spent the summer of 2007 in Asia, working as sous for Rodelio Aglibot (Yi Cuisine, Koi) at Shangri-La resorts in Hong Kong and Manila. Later that year, Mazzola took on a position at the new Akasha (two doors down from FFS), and then moved to across the street to Rush Street in 2008. After a few months in Rome, she became Executive Chef at Westwood's Palomino in 2010, and wound up co-authoring a cookbook (Cook!: Easy Recipes For the Busy Wellness Warrior) with "certified holistic wellness coach" Jovanka Ciares in 2012. She stayed at Palomino until earlier this year, when she was tapped by Cardenas to head up Taberna.

The menu here at Taberna Arros y Vi, unsurprisingly, focuses on tapas, but there's a good selection of heartier paellas and larger plates as well. To drink, think a fun selection of sangrias and low-proof cocktails (a full liquor license is in the works), along with a Spanish- and Italian-focused wine list. Click for larger versions.

Honey Grapefruit / Beer Sangria

Honey Grapefruit [$8.00] | fresh grapefruit, honey syrup, sparkling wine
Beer Sangria [$8.00] | pear, oj, estrella damm beer
Speaking of those sangrias, we began with a twosome. The Honey Grapefruit was as lighthearted as the name would suggest, imbued with a sparkling effervescence and a saccharine, honeyed base balanced by the tart, acidic nature of grapefruit. The aptly-named Beer Sangria, meanwhile, was all about its bready, malty base that really highlighted the Estrella, all while the orange and pear added contrasting sweet and sour layers on top.

Scallop Ceviche [$13.00] | confit garlic butter, sweet pickled fennel, pickled radish, petals, capers
We began with a scallop ceviche, and here, the use of pickled fennel and radish imparted a sweet, tangy verve to the bivalves that sort of offset the force of those capers.

Crispy Pig Ears [$9.00] | salsa verde, harissa aioli
Orejas de cerdo were a must-try for me, and arrived in a healthy portion. They were just what I wanted: crisp, crunchy, yet chewy and a bit gelatinous, and just brimming with pork-y savor. The ears were certainly satisfying alone, but even better when taken with a squirt of lemon and a dip in the included condiments.

Steelhead Carpaccio [$18.00] | black truffle, burrata, arugula, heirloom tomato
A carpaccio of trout was surprisingly briny, and firm to the bite, with the richness of the burrata and bitter arugula serving to moderate the potency of the fish, all while the truffle tried to impart just a hint of earthiness to the fray. The flavors made sense here, but the dish didn't come together as well as I'd hoped.

Grilled Asparagus w/ Dried Tuna [$11.00] | grilled asparagus, romesco sauce
Asparagus was quite good, the spears' crisp, trademark bitterness enhanced with char savor and the added depth of the dried tuna. Romesco, meanwhile, was a fitting complement, its piquant zing a keen counterpoint to the vegetable.

Mussels

Mussels [$15.00] | spicy butter, blue cheese, chorizo
These green-lipped mussels must've been the largest I've had, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. They were pretty much spot on in terms of texture, and their inherent brine was deftly paired with the dish's spicy, sour-ish broth, which was fortunately subtle on the blue cheese. Tasty.

Fava Bean Toast [$10.00] | grilled bread, fresh fava bean mash, burrata cheese
What basically amounted to fava bean crostini were nice, conveying the cool, creamy nature of the burrata against the subtly tangy mash. My concern here was that the toast verged on overly tough, taking away from the experience.

Red Pepper [$8.00] | la quinta spirit, chardonnay, bell pepper, cilantro
The Red Pepper sangria really showed off the light, bright essence of bell pepper, along with a great veil of cilantro herbaceousness and a bit of creeping spice toward the back end.

Paella Valenciana [$22.00] | chorizo, chicken, fabada beans, saffron, lemon
Of course, we had to try a paella, and ended up going with pretty much the most traditional possible. The chicken formed an apt base to the dish, tarted up by the pervasive spice of the chorizo, all while the beans served up an almost cassoulet-like heartiness. However, the lemon ended up being too much of a dominant force here, imparting sort of a discordant sourness to the paella. At the same time though, I would've appreciated more brightness in the dish, perhaps with the addition of some veggies. Nice texture on the socarrat, though.

Chocolate/Caramel Bread Pudding [$9.00] | cinnamon brioche, caramel sauce, chocolate bits, crushed peanut brittle, vanilla ice cream
We were pretty full by this point, and thus opted for a single dessert. It was a winner though, a sweet 'n' spicy blast of chocolate-y, cinnamon-y flair countered by the vanilla ice cream, all while the brittle added a lovely textural component to the dish.

I'm glad that Taberna--a long time in the making--was finally able to come to fruition. It's a welcomed addition to an area that could really use some more quality restaurants. The Spanish-focused cooking represents a nice change of pace, and the plates generally satisfied, though a bit of tweaking for some of the dishes would definitely elevate the experience. Service, headed by GM Wes Zelio, was on point, and I'm curious to see where the cocktail program goes with the addition of a full bar, so this could be one to watch.

Orsa and Winston Restaurant
122 W 4th St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.687.0300
www.orsaandwinston.com
Fri 10/25/2013, 09:00p-12:55a

Orsa & Winston Exterior

If you're like me, you've kept an eye on Josef Centeno over the past few years. The Chef first made a name for himself around these parts when he was doing his multi-course tastings at Opus back in '06. He left there in January 2008 though, and spent some time planning his own place, Volver, before taking over the kitchen at Lot 1 in Echo Park. The partnership ultimately ended up disastrously, and Centeno largely stayed out of the public eye until late 2009. That was when he joined forces with Michael Cardenas to open Lazy Ox Canteen, which was sort of the first step on his real return to LA dining. The accolades garnered there allowed the Chef to open Bäco Mercat in late 2011, and then Bar Amá a year later.

However, Baco and Ama are decidedly casual affairs, and all this time, Centeno was still yearning to get back into something a bit schmancier. The result of this latent desire manifested itself in the form of Orsa & Winston, the restaurant that he wanted to do post-Opus, but couldn't. Named after the Chef's two dogs, it's located right next door to Bar Amá, and features cooking inspired by the culinary traditions of both Japan and Italy. O&W debuted on September 24th via a special MasterCard promotion, and opened to the public shortly afterward. Centeno is joined here by Director of Operations Mike Hoagland, GM/Wine Director Sally Kim, Pastry Chef Isa Fabro, and Sous Chefs Joel Stovell and Susan Yoon.

Orsa & Winston Interior

Orsa & Winston is small, comprising roughly 1500sqft between both the dining room and the kitchen. The roughly 34-seat space was penned by Amaryllis Knight of ALTAI Studio and showcases a pretty subtle aesthetic, a fitting canvas for the food I guess.

Orsa & Winston Kitchen Counter

The best seats in the house are, unsurprisingly, situated at the four-seater, Caesarstone-topped counter (reminiscent of the one in my own kitchen), which affords diners a view of the hustle and bustle of the gleaming, open kitchen.

As far as Orsa & Winston's menu goes, there are a lot of options here. Starting at the top, we opted for the roughly 25-course "Super-Omakase," priced at $195 per head and which is only available at the bar with prior reservation. There's also the standard nine-course Omakase at $95, a five-course tasting at $60, a family-style four-courser at $50, and if that wasn't enough, even a few limited à la carte selections as well. Now, for the tipple, Sally Kim's in charge of the beverage program, which includes a well-curated wine list and a smattering of beers and sakes. Corkage is set at $35, with a one bottle limit, a recent change from the $25/two bottle limit policy they had not too long ago. Click for larger versions.

We ended up purchasing a fun bottle from the list to start things off, the Mercat Cava Brut NV [$40]. This was an easy-drinking, though not particularly contemplative sparkler, full of lemon and stone fruit, yet balanced with a dry, yeasty character to it. A tasty way to kick things off.

1: fennel panna cotta with tonburi, wheat cracker
Serving as a sort of amuse bouche was a fennel panna cotta with potato-leek mousse, mountain caviar, and wheat cracker crumbles. Think creamy, herbal, and anise-laced flavors, leading to a muted sweetness, all set off by the countering crunch of the tonburi.

2: white anchovy with cubeb-honey, tonnato
Next was Centeno's delectable take on the tapas dish boquerones fritos, the anchovy's fishiness leading to a sweet, spicy, lingering midpalate, with the pickled yucca and pepper imparting a well-suited brightness to things. I could've used a whole plate of these.

3: kanpachi with shishito, satsuma, shiso
Amberjack arrived with a quartet of Japanese accompaniments, its brine transitioning to an enduring, tangy sweetness tempered by the slight heat from the togarashi.

4: breakfast in shell, semolina, pancetta, sherry cream
One of the favorites of the night was this homage to Alain Passard's legendary Arpège egg, which I found quite similar to Manresa's well-known version (recall, Centeno worked there as well). It was comprised of coddled egg, sherry vinegar, maple syrup, chive, and pancetta, with the creamy lushness of the egg gorgeously balanced by the tart and sweet notes present, while the lardons at the bottom added a wonderful hit of salt to the fray. Nice temperature contrast here, too.

5: milk-bread focaccia with butter, testa
Orsa & Winston's bread course was another standout. The bread itself ostensibly combines Japanese milk bread with focaccia from Baco Mercat, and was delicious on its own, a great blend of a crisp exterior and a silken center. The oregano butter that came with was super soft, and subtly herby, a fantastic accoutrement to the bread. Even better, though, were the slivers of pork testa with shiso and capers, which spent 12 hours in the oven. Herby, oily, slick, and unabashedly porcine, they formed an in-your-face blast of meaty goodness that complemented the bread in commendable fashion.

6: beef carpaccio with mushroom conserva, charred leek, sardo
A carpaccio of American beef brought together pickled mushrooms, black truffle, Sardo, and Champagne raisins. The meat itself was slick and slippery, with an olive oil-y weight to it that served as a counterpoint to the herby, pickle-y qualities of the dish, all while the cheese imparted a great bit of saltiness to the mix. However, I really would've appreciated a knife here, so that I could've more easily cut the beef.

7: castel franco with mango, pear, gorgonzola bottarga
Shreds of speckled Castelfranco paired well with Gorgonzola and mango, the delightfully bittersweet qualities of the radicchio working beautifully with the contrasting forces of sweet and salt present. Lovely crunch here, too.

Two Burgundies were BYOB'd tonight, the first of which was the 2011 Val de Mer Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir. I quite liked this one, its floral, grassy, slightly spicy qualities complemented by a mineral-y backbone and a certain roundness, which only increased with time in the glass.

8: matsutake with razor clam, dashi-beet emulsion garbanzo, chinese cedar
I'm a sucker for razor clams, so perhaps it's no surprise that this was probably my favorite course of the night. I loved the texture of the clams here, and their inherent salinity was faultlessly played against the smoky undercurrent present, with the beets imparting a certain brightness to the dish. Even better? The earthy, hefty garbanzos, which really grounded the dish.

9: cardoon with anchovy, shaved fresh porcini, black garlic
Cardoons were bright and crunchy, their slightly acerbic, vegetal savor working hand in hand along with the piquant tastes of the fermented garlic and anchovy combo, all while the porcini actually help moderate the dish. Very neat.

10: snap pea with burrata, meyer lemon, cucumber leaf
Another one of my favs was this presentation of sugar snap peas with burrata and meyer lemon marmalade. The vibrant, saccharine crunch of the peas was gorgeously conveyed here, really giving us a crystal clear picture of the veggie that was modulated by the lushness of the burrata, with the lemon contributing a sour accent piece to the course.

11: live scallop, spigarello, ham, shellfish béarnaise
Live scallop was presented in situ, served with roe, butter, and a truffle béarnaise. It was delicious, and one of the most luxurious preparations of the ingredient I've had, the butter and truffle really melding well together and adding a seldom seen layer of decadence to the bivalve. I loved the crispy breadcrumbs tossed on top as well, and I could've really used some more of that milk bread to sop up the remaining liquid!

12: abalone with burnt milk, pomelo, onion jus, nasturtium
Abalone came with an intriguing burnt milk panna cotta, resulting in a sweet, smoky, almost vanilla ice cream-like sapor to go along with the pleasantly chewy bits of gastropod, interjected by pops of tartness from the pommelo vesicles.

13: chicken liver mousse with thomcord jam, bread crisps
Chicken liver mousse arrived silky and smooth, imbued with its unmistakable, earthy musk. It was a fine presentation of the delicacy. However, the included thomcord jam verged on overly sugary, thus masking some of the liver's character.

14: spaghettini with uni butter, salmon roe, wasabi
Pasta made its first appearance with this excellent course of spaghetti, done up with white soy and salmon roe. The noodles themselves were properly al dente, with the incorporation of yuzu and ikura giving up a zesty, piquant blast that made the dish instantly Japanese-y. I wouldn't have minded a whole plate of the stuff.

15: sawara with puttanesca, caper, basil
Sawara is something I rarely get to enjoyed cooked, a shame, because here it was superb. The Spanish mackerel itself was deftly prepared, with a satisfying texture and its signature salinity intact, but the key was that sugo alla puttanesca, which contributed a classic tomato-based, caper-laced counterweight that finished out the fish beautifully.

16: satsuki rice with uni, geoduck, tangerine lace
Here, we had a risotto of sorts, but one made with Koshihikari from Uruguay I believe. Think starchy and heady, with the heft of the Pecorino balanced by the sweet, tangy nuances in the rice, while the manila clam and urchin providing the expected ocean-y flavors. I wanted a larger bowl!

The second Burg came in the form of a 2009 Domaine du Château de Chorey Beaune 1er Cru Les Cras Vieilles Vignes. This one seemed very tight at first, without much in terms of aroma and a smoky-tannic nature with very little fruit. It did get more pleasing to me in time, though, with the cherried qualities and minerality coming through more and more.

17: john dory with braised beans, salsa verde, yuzu kosho
The Dory was another highlight for me. The fish was cooked perfectly, with a fantastic bit of crust and a great depth of savor that was expertly paired with the citrus-y, herb-y notes present, while the beans added a great heft and texture to things.

18: squab with kuri squash, fennel jus, flowering fennel
Squab had a delightful char on it, which imparted a bitter savor that worked in harmony with the immensely satisfying slices of the bird. The use of red curry and fennel imparted further facets to the course, but the squash went overly saccharine, distracting me from the other great things going on here. I would've liked something more astringent, vegetal to go along.

19: honey-ham cap with tomato, sorrel
Ham cap was just brimming with porcine richness, a commingling of lean and fat that was squelched in part by the sugary honey and tart tomato jam. However, I really needed a bigger piece here, so that I could've better appreciated the textures and body of the meat.

20: agnolotti with lamb cheek, sardo, rye, mint lavender
Our final savory course of the night was also our most substantial: an Okinawan potato agnolotti stuffed with braised lamb cheek. The tender shards of meat showed off all the deep, dark flavors that you'd expect, but once again, I found the sweetness here a bit too strong. Satisfying in a straightforward manner.

21: pomegranate granita, meyer lemon
A pomegranate granité with lavender and meyer lemon served as a very smart intermezzo, its fruity, floral, minty qualities working as an effective palate cleanser after the heavier coursed that preceded it.

22: custard with grapefruit, coconut tapioca
Next, vanilla custard was joined by coconut tapioca, blood orange caramel, and a grapefruit granita, the vanilla and coconut forming a great combination that did a nice job playing off each other, with the caramel and grapefruit forming a sugary sweet base to the dessert. Lovely crunch here from the tuile, too.

23: blood orange pavlova, basil seeds
A blood orange pavlova was superb, the bittersweet, aromatic nuances from the citrus-basil interplay wonderfully tempered by the light crunch of that meringue.

24: pear strudel with honey cassis
My favorite of the desserts was the pear-ricotta strudel with honey, cassis, and brown butter streusel. The key here was how the initial sweet-n-spicy flavors transitioned to the clean, crisp essence of pear, with the savory crust and brown butter coming in toward the end.

25: hazelnut chocolate with butterscotch-rosemary
The requisite chocolate dessert brought us a hazelnut-chocolate cake topped with whipped crème fraîche, with butterscotch, rosemary, and a hazelnut toffee. Think your classic chocolate-hazelnut flavors here, but greatly enhanced by the butterscotch and toffee, with the rosemary adding a fantastic aromatic component that really tied everything together.

26: ninjabread
To close: fun "ninja-bread" men: a new school look, old school cookie taste.

I think we've all been keeping tabs on what Josef Centeno's been up to these past few years, and it was great to see the Chef finally back in the kitchen, cooking in a smaller format and in a style that better makes use of his classical training and fine dining background. Orsa & Winston's one of the most exciting debuts of the year, but the food here is somewhat difficult to classify succinctly. It does draw from both Italy and Japan as advertised, and has a certain quiet thoughtfulness to it that I can't quite put my finger on. The flavors were very intentional, yet fine-drawn, with a sort of ingredient-centric quality about the plates, and I'm not sure if I've had anything quite like it before. Service, meanwhile, was as on point as you'd expect, and I'd be curious about trying some of the other menu options as well, though at the same time, I'm thinking that perhaps the place should cut down on the number of ways to dine, which currently stands at five (Super Omakase, nine-course, five-course, four-course family-style, à la carte). One last thing: I'd also like to see more variation in the dishware used, as seeing the same plate over 20 courses does get a tad monotonous.

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