Barbershop Ristorante Italiano
8700 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90048
424.272.5849
www.barbershop-venice.com
Wed 01/09/2013, 08:30p-11:40p





The last time we caught up with Walter El Nagar, he was serving as Chef de Cuisine at Sal Marino's longstanding Il Grano. Not long after that pretty remarkable meal, he left the restaurant and began working at Piccolo in Venice. From there, he transitioned to La Botte (where he'd previously consulted) in July, and had plans to overhaul the menu by November. However, by the time that rolled around, he'd already departed to begin work on Barbershop, his first solo project. To get the concept off the ground, El Nagar, like many chefs these days, instituted a pop-up, one set inside the recently-shuttered Il Covo, which itself had opened up in the old Orso space back in March 2011. The temporary restaurant kicked off on December 19th, and ran until the 12th of this month, Wednesdays through Saturdays. Chef El Nagar partnered with Piccolo veteran Mario Vollera, who also served as Wine Director, and was joined in the kitchen by LudoBites alum Chuck Kallal.


Barbershop occupied the upper floor of Il Covo, which, as you probably already know, is in the process of being converted to the new location of Suzanne Goin's AOC. The room is cozy and rustic, and features a sole Chef's Table that seats up to 16.


As far as Barbershop's menu is concerned, it was a prix fixe tasting of progressive Italian cuisine, set at $75pp, plus $45 for an optional wine pairing from Vollera. Click for a larger version.


To begin: quite possibly the lengthiest grissini (breadsticks) that I'd ever encountered.


Stuzzichini
A quartet of canapés was brought out next. I started with the so-called "Italian chicharrón," which I found nicely crisp and savory, with a lovely, citrus-y sauce as an accompaniment. I then moved on to the Luna oyster: firm and crisp, with a very focused salinity partly offset by the tart pomegranate notes in the bite. Next was the "Italian Spritzer," basically a spherification of Prosecco, Aperol, and orange that showed off some bittersweet flavors, but was rather watery and diluted. Finally, we had my favorite of the foursome, a delectably salty, satisfying chicken terrine.


1: Crudo di pesce, salse d'accompagnamento | DTLA fish market crudo
Pietracupa Greco di Tufo 2010
Next was a quintet of crudo. Going from back to front, we had:

• Scallop - Firm and fresh, with an intense, lingering brine moderated by the application of its Meyer lemon dressing.
• Amberjack - Hearty and sticky, with a subtle taste that wasn't overwhelmed by the surprisingly restrained sweetness of beet.
• Trevally Jack - A fish that you don't encounter all that often, with a superb tanginess from the accompanying blood orange.
• Red Sea Bream - Delicate and refined, with the best use of sauce in the form of that cilantro smear.
• Yellowtail - Nicely fatty, with a great texture and subtle kiwi tartness to balance things out a bit.

Here, Mario Vollera shows off the truffles used in our next course.


2: Insalata di funghi, tartufo e midollo | Mushrooms salad, black truffle and bone marrow
Nebbiolo Paitin 2009
A "salad" of mushroom brought together three different types of the fungus, including a dust of trumpet mushroom, on top of which was shaved black or white Alba (at an additional charge) truffle. There were some great textures here, with the crisp, crunchy, slightly gelatinous funghi providing an earthy veil to the dish, one that was then complemented by the rich, gooey bone marrow.


The bread basket included a delightfully salty focaccia, as well as some surprisingly saline squid ink rolls.


3: Risotto alle zucca, Gorgonzola e liquirizia | Carnaroli risotto with butternut squash, Gorgonzola cheese and licorice
Montepulciano Nottola 2008
A risotto incorporating squash and Gorgonzola was surprisingly delicious, one of the better preparations of the dish that I'd had in a while in fact. I loved the salty, funky bite of the bleu and how it enrobed and encapsulated every single grain of the properly al dente Carnaroli rice. If that wasn't enough, the butternut actually provided a delightfully sweet counterpoint to the cheese, making for a very balanced course overall.


4: Spaghetti cozze, bottarga e fagioli | Spaghetti with Carlsbad mussels emulsion, cannellini beans and bottarga
Venica Friulano 2010
Housemade spaghetti was another strong course, with a fantastic, overarching salinity from the combination of mussels and Sardinian bottarga that was dutifully moderated by the weighty, earthy beans. Lovely consistency on the noodles, too.


5: Rana pescatrice con il suo fegato, zabaione alle ostriche e piselli | Monk fish tail and liver, oyster and prosecco zabaione, English pea
Falanghina Feudi di San Gregorio 2010
El Nagar's monkfish, prepared sous vide, was divine, one of the best presentations of the fish I've had actually, with a beautifully spongy, springy, snappy texture and mildly saline taste that was wonderfully complemented by the lush, creamy sabayon. A disk of monkfish liver, meanwhile, was also served, and definitely lived up to its moniker as the foie gras of the sea, putting forth a rich, luxurious, briny character that was deftly tarted up by the use of English pea and a dusting of Maldon sea salt.


Here, we see the staff using liquid nitrogen to make an instant sorbet.


6: Sorbetto alla birra trappista | Trappist beer sorbet
Serving as a sort of palate cleanser, we had here a quenelle of Trappistes Rochefort 6, flash frozen using the LN2 above. It really was like drinking the beer, showing off the pure, unmitigated essence of the brew, but in a different textural form.


7: Amatriciana senza pasta | Pork jowl, pecorino foam, tomatoes
Balbium Magliocco 2009
Our last savory course brought us a reimagined version of the classic all'amatriciana, a traditional pasta sauce based on guanciale (cured pork jowl), pecorino, and tomato. Instead of the guanciale, we had instead a wonderfully tender cut of sous vide pork cheek. It was delicious all by itself, showing off a mouthwatering blend of porcine flavors, but also went superbly with the sauces, the pecorino providing a bit more heft to the dish, while the tomato inserted a well-placed tanginess into the mix.


8: Torrone descruito con I cachi | Deconstructed torrone with persimmon variation
Ca' Rossa Birbet Mosto Fermentato NV
Getting into the sweet stuff now, the first dessert course was El Nagar's version of a deconstructed torrone, traditionally a nougat-like Italian confection embedded with various nuts. The incarnation here, though, comprised pistachio-almond milk powder and persimmon over a base of egg and sugar. It was rather lovely, really recalling the classic candy with its multifaceted flavors and intriguing textures.


9: Torta di mele con fior di latte | Apple pie, milk ice cream
Ca' Rossa Birbet Mosto Fermentato NV
Last up was the Chef's riff on apple pie: a sponge cake, served with sous vide compressed apple and a mascarpone ice cream (taking the place of cheddar cheese?). It was a success, with the fruity sweetness of the dish pairing beautifully with the cool, tangy gelato, making for a delicious, and very well-integrated dessert.


To close, a cup of espresso.

It was nice to be able to catch up with Chef El Nagar again. Italian in LA is often criticized for being cookie-cutter, so I really appreciated what he was trying to do here: present the heart of Italian cookery, but with a slightly modern twist. It's actually something that I'd like to see done more often. As for what's next for the Chef, he plans to follow up with another round of Barbershop, after which he'll hopefully be moving into a permanent spot near his home in Venice. It'll be a tiny, intimate restaurant, serving perhaps a dozen diners in a bar-seating-only, tasting menu format, which is indeed very unusual for an Italian eatery. Should be interesting.

Hinoki and the Bird
10 W Century Dr, Century City, CA 90067
310.552.1200
www.hinokiandthebird.com
Thu 01/17/2013, 08:00p-11:40p



This year's first "big" debut comes to us in the form of the whimsically-monikered Hinoki & the Bird, the latest project from the David Myers Group and quite possibly the successor to Sona that we've been waiting for these past few years. The restaurant is housed on the ground floor of The Century, the priciest condo tower west of the Mississippi, and is helmed by Myers' prized protégé Kuniko Yagi, a current contestant on Top Chef: Seattle. As for the name, hinoki is a type of cypress tree that is meant to represent the spirit of Japan, while the "bird" encompasses Myers, Yagi, and the staff, whose worldly travels have ostensibly influenced the modern Cal-Asian cooking here.

About the Chef: Yagi hails from Maebashi, the capital city of Japan's Gunma Prefecture. She first began taking an interest in food due to her mother's cooking, but declined to pursue a career in the kitchen, instead opting for a "safer" profession, resulting in an unsatisfying position at a bank in Tokyo. She yearned to do something more creative, something that would allow her to create using her hands. As an escape, Yagi married an American and moved to Southern California in 2003. The marriage, however, was brief, and she soon found herself alone and looking for a job.

Given her limited English skills at the time, Yagi ended up working as a server at Ubon, NobuMatsuhisa's ill-fated noodle house. Here, her love of food was rekindled, and it just so happened that one of Ubon's regular customers was none other than David Myers. The two began talking, and Myers, impressed by her zeal and enthusiasm, offered her a job at Sona. She was 26 at this point. Thus, in 2004, Yagi began working at one of the best restaurants in LA, starting in prep, then the amuse station, then working her way up the line to sous before being named Chef de Cuisine in late 2007. She excelled in this post, even becoming one of StarChefs' Rising Stars, and held the position up until Sona's unfortunate shutter in May 2010.

After the closure, Yagi traveled to her homeland, staging across a number of eateries in Japan, including traditional Kyoto kaiseki restaurants Yachiyo and Konobu, under Chef Takuji Takahashi. In Tokyo, she interned at Seiji Yamamoto's much-talked-about modernist kaiseki joint Ryugin, as well as at Sushi Shin, where she made numerous visits to the famed Tsukiji fish market. Returning from Japan in mid-2011, Yagi worked a stint at EN Japanese Brasserie in New York, under Chef Abe Hiroki, then traveled to Paris and Italy (Milan, Venice, Florence, Rome) for additional inspiration. At this point, she became Executive Chef of Comme Ça here in LA, then left to film Season 10 of Top Chef. Following, Yagi took a tour of Southeast Asia to further broaden her horizons, and started work on bringing Hinoki & the Bird to life.


The Milo Garcia/MAI Studio-penned decor is a slight departure from the LA norm, which is appreciated. It's an indoor/outdoor space, wood-y and homey and multifaceted on the inside, anchored by a copper-topped communal table, cozy bar, and gleaming open kitchen (replete with binchotan charcoal grill). Further seating is available in the adjacent enclosed patio.


The Hinoki & the Bird menu is surprisingly lengthy, a celebration of globally-inflected Cali cooking split among smaller plates good for sharing, heartier mains, and some appealing sides. It's a dinner-only affair at the moment, but there are indeed plans to add lunch as well, and I'd love to see them offer a tasting menu option. Also worthy of note is the cocktail list, an intriguing selection with good breadth crafted by none other than New Yorker Sam Ross (Attaboy, Milk and Honey, Little Branch, Pegu Club, East Side Company Bar). Click for larger versions.


For all you winos out there, H&tB offers up a formidable wine list as well. Click for larger versions.


gordon's cup [$14.00] | gin, muddled lime, cucumber, szechuan pepper, salt
bird cup [$14.00] | our take on a pimms cup, muddled citrus
nakatomi plaza [$14.00] | choya plum wine, yamazaki, fresh pressed green apple
We were in a cocktail sort of mood though, and would eventually wind up sampling every single one of Ross' 14 creations. Our first round began with the Gordon's Cup, sort of the requisite gin-cucumber cocktail on the menu, but a good one at that; sure, the classic pairing of the cool cucumber and zesty, aromatic gin was spot on, but what really made this special was the spicy, savory overtones from the Sichuan pepper and salt. The Bird Cup, meanwhile, was the restaurant's version of the famed Pimm's Cup, lightly boozy and highly quaffable, with a tangy, fruity character over a somewhat medicinal backbone. Last up was the Die Hard-inspired Nakatomi Plaza (actually the nearby Fox Plaza), a neat little cocktail featuring an almost candy-esque apple-y sweetness intertwined with the smoky heft of the whiskey. Yippie-ki-yay.


scallops, grapefruit, lime leaf [$16.00]
Our first course brought us some supple medallions of scallop, mild and delicate, yet nicely accented by the bittersweet taste of its accompaniments. The crux of the dish, though, was the use of toasted rice, which added a fantastic savoriness on the finish, as well as a lovely crunch.


beef tartare, pickled jalapeno, parmigiano [$15.00]
Yagi's beef tartar, quite simply, may very well have been the best I've ever had. I loved the Asian-y slant of the dish, with its supple, springy chunks of steak expertly highlighted by the use of Parmesan and quail egg, while the jalapeño added a spicy, piquant contrast that lingered just on and on. It was a perfect mélange of flavors, gorgeously set on some wonderfully crusty, toasty pieces of bread.


marinated tuna, lemongrass salad [$16.00]
Tiles of tuna arrived at the table subtle and sticky, with a slight ocean-y savor that paired well against the bright, zesty nuances of the lemongrass salad.


1/2 dozen oysters, pear mignonette [$18.00]
Our oyster plate featured the Forbidden varietal, harvested from a private farm in Yorktown, VA, right on the Chesapeake Bay. I don't think I'd ever actually had these before, but they were on point: plump and crisp, with a focused salinity that paired nicely with the tangy sweetness of the pear mignonette.


hinoki swizzle [$14.00] | amontillado sherry, st germaine, fresh green apple & champagne
griffith park swizzle [$14.00] | bourbon, mint, lime, bitters & absinthe
jungle bird [$14.00] | black strap rum, pineapple, lime & campari
Round #2 commenced with the Hinoki Swizzle, a fascinating concoction with a coffee-like character from the sherry set off against the fruity, effervescent nature of the rest of the drink. The Griffith Park Swizzle, meanwhile, was considerably more intense, showing off an almost cough syrup-y nature from the booze, bitters, and absinthe that was only slightly moderated by the lime and mint used. The Jungle Bird, finally, was easily the most polarizing of the trio, a dark, viscous, saccharine, spicy libation with a bittersweet tinge that left some of us scratching our heads.


salt & pepper marinated calamari, ajwain-tomato jam [$13.00]
The "fun bites" portion of the menu (which almost seems like drinking food, a concession to the bar patrons) got off to a strong start with one of the best preparations of fried calamari that I'd ever eaten. One of my common complaints with the dish is an overly thick batter, but that wasn't the case here. Instead, the "crust" was light and thin, with a mouth-watering savor that transitioned gracefully to the supple cuts of squid contained within. The fritters were delicious alone, but the tangy, Indian-inflected dipping sauce was appreciated as well.


crispy marinated chicken, lemon aoli [$14.00]
Yagi's fried chicken (karaage?) was similarly delectable: tender and juicy, set in a delicate layer of batter and brimming with chicken-y goodness. Just think of these as the best chicken tenders you've ever had. The included sauce wasn't even necessary.


chili crab toast, spicy cucumber, coriander [$15.00]
The Chef's chili crab toast was another standout, actually reminding me of the excellent version of the dish at Starry Kitchen. I loved how the inherent sweetness and texture of the crab was so perfectly displayed here, yet not overwhelmed by the sharp, lingering heat in the dish. A must try.


fried oysters, black garlic aoli [$12.00]
Kaki furai were just as I expected, crisp and crunchy, with a well-placed brininess from the huge Hama Hamas. The interesting thing here was the included aioli, topped with a bit of black garlic that made the sauce a fitting temper to the bite of the oysters.


white negroni [$14.00] | amère sauvage (bitter gentian), bianco vermouth, rocks, grapefruit twist
harajuku [$14.00] | hakushu single malt whiskey, gran classico, byrrh quinquina & chocolate bitters
kingston negroni [$14.00] | smith + cross jamaican rum, gran classico, sweet vermouth, rocks, orange twist
Our third set of cocktails brought us variations on the negroni, reportedly Sam Ross' favorite drink. The White Negroni conveyed a base of vegetal, bittersweet flavors courtesy of the Amere Sauvage, balance by citrus-y overtones from the grapefruit. The Harajuku, on the other hand, had a sugary, almost candy-esque sweetness to it countered by a hefty base of booze and bitters. Rounding out the threesome was the Kingston Negroni, with the rum serving as a fitting replacement for the traditional gin, providing a bolder, sweeter taste to go along with the medicinal notes in the cocktail.


hinoki scented black cod, sweet potato, pistachio [$24.00]
The most intriguing section of the menu is titled "inspiration," and we delved into it with this beautifully-cooked black cod, replete with a sheet of burning hinoki that lent a sort of smoky veil to the dish. The fish was marvelous, one of the best preparations of black cod I've tasted: super flaky, meltingly tender, and undeniably buttery. It was superb alone, but the earthy mushrooms by its side were spot on as well. My only concern was the sweet potato, which I found overly sugary; I would've preferred a standard potato instead.


coconut-curried mussels, sausage, cauliflower [$19.00]
It seems like I've been having some really good luck with mussel dishes recently (e.g. Bestia), and this course just continued that trend. The mussels themselves, first off, were spot on: plump and satisfying, with a good brine to 'em. The key, though, was that phenomenal coconut curry, which put forth some mouth-watering sweet and herb-y notes that melded flawlessly with the mollusks. At the same time, the bits of sausage thrown it added a delightful saltiness to the course, while the cauliflower did wonders in providing a touch of lightness.


lobster roll, green curry, thai basil [$16.00]
I have a feeling that this is the dish that everyone will be talking about, and for good reason. It just might've been the tastiest version of the New England classic I've eaten, even beating out my current favorite at Son of a Gun. The lobster itself I found utterly sweet and springy, a spot-on presentation that was perfectly accented by the use of a wonderfully aromatic lemongrass-y curry. If that wasn't enough, the dark-as-night charcoal powder bread lent a fascinating visual cue to the dish, and also served as a fitting counterpoint to the crustacean.


caramel braised kurobuta pork belly, radish, mustard greens [$28.00]
The requisite pork belly course brought out something that was undoubtedly inspired by the classic Chinese hong shao rou. Unsurprisingly, the meat was falling-apart tender and fatty, with boatloads of deep, dark, umami-laced flavors tinged with a marked sweetness. Given the heft of the pork, I much appreciated the crisp mustard greens here, which really helped counteract the considerable weight of the belly.


clam chowder, celery leaf [$11.00]
We concluded this part of the menu with Yagi's riff on clam chowder. It was pretty amazing, with what little actual soup there was conveying the heady essence of the sea, augmented by actual bits of clam, and taken up yet another notch by the wonderfully salty dices of bacon. Tiny cubes of potato, meanwhile, served as a moderating element in the chowder, adding heft and body, while the celery provided a lovely touch of levity and vegetal astringency to the course.


tangerine caipirissima [$14.00] | white rum, lime, tangerine & brown sugar
seasonal fix [$14.00] | gin, rum, vodka or tequila, served with fresh lemon over muddled season fruit
tommy's #2 [$14.00] | tequila and/or mezcal, lime, orange & agave
Even more cocktails: The Tangerine Caipirissima was basically a caipirinha in essence, with a delightfully citrus-y character paired with an appealing sweetness from the brown sugar--quite refreshing. The Seasonal Fix gives imbibers a choice of base liquors and fruit. We requested a "dealer's choice," which resulted in a gin and grape concoction that was actually quite nice, with the bright flavors of the grape playing well with the floral, fragrant gin. Our version of Tommy's #2, lastly, came with mezcal, and it was a prototypical presentation of the spirit, contrasting the smoky, woody taste of the booze against the light, juicy citrus nuances present.


drunken duck breast [$24.00]
At this point, it was time to venture into the "simply grilled" dishes, which, I imagine, might be there to appeal to the less adventurous eaters that are bound to visit the restaurant (e.g. residents of The Century). Kicking things off was this duck, which I quite enjoyed. It actually possessed a pretty profound depth, with an immensely savory relish to it that might be too much for some--it definitely tasted like duck, that's for sure. The persimmons, meanwhile, were unnecessarily sweet, though some of my dining companions appreciated the fruit. Personally, I would've wanted to see some lighter, bitter greens to counteract the intensity of the bird.


maine lobster [$38.00]
An entire lobster arrived halved and grilled. The course showed off the classic notes of the crustacean that you'd expect, but tarted up by the use of ginger, cilantro, and a hefty sauce that somehow managed not to completely overwhelm the main ingredient. My concern here was that lobster was just a shade tough in certain places.


wagyu strip loin [$38.00]
Hinoki & the Bird's strip loin would put that at a lot of steakhouses to shame. Done to a properly rare temperature, it was tender to the bite, and displayed an immense beefy goodness that was keenly accented by a salty outer crust. The greenery on the plate, meanwhile, provided a fitting, bitter temper to the meat. Just a lovely steak overall.


sambal skate wing [$21.00]
The skate wing was my favorite item in this section, and one of my favorite preparations of the fish ever. Served on the bone, the skate was oh-so tender, and even slightly gelatinous, with a fantastic touch of heat from the sambal. The included bowl of pungent fish sauce provided even more complexity to the dish, but wasn't strictly necessary for me.


grilled winter mushrooms, sea salt, lime [$12.00]
Moving on to the side dishes now, our server recommended these mushrooms, and she was right on the money. We had here oyster and shiitake varieties, and they each were spot on, really conveying the earthy, umami-laden flavors that I was expecting, but taken up a notch by a dash of lime and sea salt.


haricot vert, sesame [$9.00]
The green beans were excellent: crisp and bright, but with a fantastic counterpoint in the form of that toasty, savory sesame.


braised shitake mushroom [$11.00]
Our final side comprised more shiitakes, but this time in braised form. They were utterly classic in essence, but with a really smart complement in the form of that spicy-salty yuzukosho.


classic negroni [$14.00] | gin, sweet vermouth & campari, rocks, orange twist
dark 'n stormy [$14.00] | bermudan rum, fresh ginger & lime
At this point, I don't think we really needed more cocktails, but we were two away from "gamuting" the list, so we figured what the hell. The Classic Negroni was just that, a quintessential expression of the drink highlighting its bittersweet taste. The Dark 'n Stormy was similarly prototypical, with a perfect balance of boozy and fruity flavors against an undercurrent of refreshing ginger notes.


braised lamb, tiny potatoes, cumin seed [$25.00]
We were ready for dessert now, but we had two go-backs on the menu. The first was this lamb, requested by one of my fellow diners. Tender, though a touch dry, the meat was fairly intense, with distinct lamb-y flavors that might veer toward overly gamy for some. The yellow curry, thus, was much appreciated, providing a South Asian-inspired counterweight to the meat. I loved those hearty pee wee potatoes as well.


kale, crispy and raw, curried almonds, pecorino, red wine vinaigrette [$12.00]
Our final savory came courtesy of the Nick, the restaurant's affable General Manager. It's one of his favorite items on the menu, and became one of mine as well. In fact, it was the best salad I've had since the one I had at Bereket, which, coincidentally, also featured kale. The veggie arrived in three forms and three preparations--braised, fried, and raw--making for a multifaceted bitterness that was beautifully accentuated by the delightful curry almonds and salty shavings of Pecorino cheese. The vinaigrette, meanwhile, added an overarching tanginess to the course that did wonders in tying all the elements together.


Desserts here at Hinoki & the Bird are handled by none other than Pastry Chef Ramon Perez, whom we last encountered at a special 5weet & Savory dinner at Breadbar. Click for a larger version.


miso ice cream, butterscotch, togarashi [$4.00]
Perez offers up a rotating selection of "rice creams," which basically amount to mochi ice cream, and naturally, we had to try 'em all. The first really worked in showing off the savory flair of the miso, which went flawlessly against the unabashed sugariness of the butterscotch, all while togarashi added an extra hint of spice to the mix.


black sesame ice cream, lemon, hibiscus [$4.00]
The black sesame version was all up in-your-face, offering up a bold blast of sweet sesame goodness that recalled the potency of tangyuan filling. To that, lemon and hibiscus served as apt foils to the intensity of the ice cream.


honey ice cream, persimmon, licorice caramel [$4.00]
The honey ice cream, as you'd imagine, was unapologetically saccharine, and augmented even more by that rich, viscous caramel. The licorice element in there actually served to moderate the overt sweetness at play, as did the diced persimmon.


meyer lemon shaved ice, pink lady apple, greek yogurt, pistachio [$8.00]
Next, we moved on to Perez's plated desserts, which definitely had a certain avant garde flair to them. The first did an admirable job in putting together some disparate tastes and textures, really conveying an interplay of sweet, sour, and almost perfume-y flavors set off by a focused savory element.


steamed banana cake, saffron cremeux, frozen coconut, hazelnut [$8.00]
The banana cake didn't get much love around the table, though I enjoyed it. The star of the show here was clearly that cake, which was dense and substantial, loaded with sugary banana flavors. What made it work, though, was the layering of flavors from the grassy saffron and subtly sweet coconut.


matcha zephyr, matcha sponge cake, zephyr namelaka, yuzu [$8.00]
What ended up being the table favorite among the desserts was this matcha cake, which really did a nice job in setting the bittersweet flavors of the cake against the tart and tangy bite of yuzu. Some lovely textures here, too.


chocolate-praline, malt cake, milk chocolate jelly, cocoa nib [$8.00]
Last up, natch, was Perez's chocolate dessert, which had a base of nutty, chocolate-y, and satisfying sweetness that I found reminiscent of gianduja. It was great to see the various forms and facets of cacao here, and I especially appreciated the bright, herbaceous accents in the dish.


David Myers, Kuniko Yagi, Ramon Perez, and the entire Hinoki & the Bird opening crew.

This was an impressive meal overall, and Hinoki & the Bird is no doubt a worthy addition to Myers' burgeoning empire. Chef Yagi has clearly upped her game since we last saw her at Sona. Her cooking has progressed nicely, and the plates we witnessed tonight point toward a focused, almost minimalistic, yet organic style that oozes vibrancy and robustness in flavors--a deft blend of Asian influences and modern American flair. Desserts and cocktails, meanwhile, were also on point, undoubtedly contributing to the appeal of the place. There's no question that H&tB is one of the most promising new debuts in recent times--a bit less formal than Sona, but just as engaging, and arguably even more exciting. I'm looking forward to seeing how this all evolves.

Sushi Murasaki
2901 W MacArthur Blvd, Santa Ana, CA 92704
714.241.1000
www.sushi-murasaki.com
Fri 12/28/2012, 06:50p-09:15p



Named after a slang term for soy sauce, Murasaki has been on my OC sushi to-eat list for a while now. Opened in April 2007, the restaurant is owned by Tsutomu Saito (Tomu-san) and Daisuke Tamaki (Dai-san), who are also the two main chefs. I don't make it to Orange County too much these days, but a trip down to my wine cellar in Irvine gave me a good excuse to pop in for a visit.


Inside, swaths of purple abound, fitting given that murasaki is also the Japanese word for the color. The decor is interesting, sort of a traditional sushi bar-meets-Pottery Barn aesthetic. There are a handful of tables available, but the real action is in front of the two chefs at the 10-seater counter.


If you sit at the bar, you'll bypass the main menu (with its chicken teriyaki and other bagatelles) and go straight for an omakase experience. There's not really a set price, so the chefs will keep going until you tell them to stop basically. Our tab came out to a rather reasonable $106.95 a head for 25 courses, not including tax, gratuity, or beverages. Speaking of the tipple, you'll find your typical selection of beers, a few wines, and a decent list of sakes and shochus; I'd pay special attention to the seasonal sake offerings. Click for larger versions.


Along with the requisite gari, a small bowl of kyuri tsukemono (pickled cucumber) was placed before us.


To drink, we ordered up a bottle of the Wakatake Onikoroshi "Akino Ki-Ippon" [$44], a tokubetsu junmai namazume sake from Shizuoka Prefecture. It was delicious, very fresh, and very smooth, with a distinct, yet delicate fruity character over a subtle base of savory complexity. Yum.


1: Kuromaguro
Our gauntlet of sushi got off to a strong start with this glistening, ruby red cut of blue fin tuna. The fish showed off a surprisingly satisfying depth, with a delightful, creeping brine countered by the zing of wasabi.


2: Hirame
A serving of halibut was light, pillow-y almost, with a mild relish accented by the fish's tangy sauce and a bit of heat on the finish.


3: Hamachi
The ubiquitous yellowtail I found spot on: fatty and beautifully complemented by soy sauce, with a good wasabi burn toward the end. I quite appreciated the cross hatching pattern inscribed on the fish here as well.


4: Tai
I'd never had a red snapper quite like this before. The fish itself was on point, but the crux of the course was the application of pepper sauce, which added a fantastic, lingering savoriness on the midpalate that really took the fish to the next level. Excellent.


5: Seared Hotate
The seared scallop was outstanding as well, with the sweetness of the bivalve playing gorgeously off of the bitterness of the char, all while wasabi gave the bite a tinge of heat on the close.


6: Kanpachi
Amberjack was tarted up perfectly by a dab of yuzukosho, which added a salty, spicy counterpoint to the undeniably clean, focused flavor of the fish. Delish.


7: Ebi
I would've liked some amaebi somewhere in the meal, but a cooked presentation of jumbo tiger shrimp certainly didn't disappoint. The snappy, springy texture of the ebi was much appreciated here, but the key was that intense, earthy, garlicky sauce on top, made using the liver of the crustacean.


8: Aji
Next up was a prototypical presentation of horse mackerel. The scallion and ginger combo really contrasted the intensity of the fish here, but was actually a touch strong for me, as I would've liked the aji to have shown through more.


9: Seared Sake
The seared salmon belly was another standout of the meal: lush and fatty, and just bursting with smoky, savory, oily flair, all accented by a wonderful char and crunchy pricks of salt. Oishii desu.


10: Toro
Tuna belly was just what I expected, conveying an unabashedly soft, melty consistency, loaded with fishy goodness and perfectly counteracted by the application of soy.


11: Awabi
Abalone I found delightfully crunchy, with a stark, saline savor that was nicely accentuated by the umami-rich relish of the nori.


12: Mirugai
The geoduck, meanwhile, had a marvelous bite to it, simultaneously crisp, yet yielding, with a great brininess to boot.


13: Anago
Murasaki's sea eel was truly something special, arguably the best presentation of the fish that I'd ever had in fact. The key was what my dining companion described as a "multifaceted salinity," a deft combination of salty, ocean-y flavors that worked perfectly in concert with each other. Loved the crisp "crust" on the eel, too.


14: Uni
The sea urchin was cold, creamy, and sweet, with a lovely counterpoint in the form of the nori, but there was a bitterness on the finish that I wasn't too keen on.


15: Wagyu
Tonight's wagyu was from Kagoshima Prefecture, and was pretty amazing, with the rich, luxurious nature of the beef deftly balanced by the astringent char as well as a lovely piquancy from its acidic dressing.


With our first sake all drunk up, we opted for a small (300mL) bottle of Dassai 50 Daiginjyo [$21] to conclude the meal with. Compared to the "Demon Slayer" above, this one was heftier, with an almost sticky sweetness and round, viscous body and an undercurrent of rice-y and alcoholic notes.


16: Kaki
Oyster sushi utilized Kusshis, one of my favorites, and was delicious, with a great mix of sweet-saline flavors tempered by the use of scallion and momiji oroshi. During this course, we started talking with Dai-san about oysters, and ended up suggesting that he look into Shigokus, which I'd first had at Ohshima. Interestingly, Dai-san mentioned that Ohshima's owner had just eaten at the restaurant days prior--it's a small sushi world.


17: Engawa
Halibut fin was a real treat as well, with its chewy consistency on proud display here. Lovely flavor too, with a nice tartness and sharp pinpoints of salt.


18: Ika
Squid was next, and conveyed a creamy, mouth-coating consistency and a mild relish set off by the use of shiso and ginger.


19: Wagyu Steak
At this point, Tomu-san brought out a beef course that he'd created on the fly. It was a hefty dish, with loads of bovine goodness and a lovely earthiness courtesy of the mushrooms, all accented by a kick of wasabi. I would've liked some more acidity here though, to balance out the intensely savory, salty flavors at play.


20: Kohada
Moving back to sushi now, the gizzard shad was quite nice, firm in texture, with a great fishy character that was adroitly moderated by a small sliver of shiso.


21: Seared Toro
You can't go wrong with seared toro, and this was no exception. As expected, the tuna was wonderfully rich, oily, and yes, unctuous, with a superb char bitterness and a cool center, which made for an intriguing contrast in temperatures.


22: Spicy Blue Crab Temaki with Habanero Masago
Here was Murasaki's take on the classic blue crab hand roll, and it was pretty amazing. The cool, sweet relish of the watarigani certainly made itself known, but the heat from the capelin roe was a really smart move, serving to counteract, yet not diminish the natural flavors of the crab. Loved the astringent bite of the greens here, too.


23: Toro-Takuan Maki
Next was a hosomaki filled with toro and takuan, with the weight of the tuna nicely offset by the crisp, tangy nature of the pickled daikon slices.


24: Tamago
The standard finisher of egg omelet was right on the money: dense in body, with a cool, sweet, hammy flavor.


At this point, we were offered our choice of sweets off of the dessert menu. Click for a larger version.


25a: Pannacotta
The soymilk panna cotta I found nice enough, with the light, subtly-flavored cream serving as a foil to the tart, tangy berry reduction up top.


25b: Smooth Pudding
Last up was Murasaki's signature dessert, which is almost like a Japanese flan. As the name implies, the custard was certainly smooth, with a mild vanilla flavor that played perfectly off of the sugary nuances of caramel present. The dollop of cream on top was a fitting touch as well.


Chef/Owners Tomu-san and Dai-san are two wild and crazy guys.

I'm certainly glad I gave Sushi Murasaki a go. The food was largely delicious, with just a few minor quibbles here and there, and the lighthearted approach of the chefs was a welcomed change of pace as well (vis-à-vis the almost uncomfortably serious, stoic environs at a place like Kasen). It was definitely one of the better sushi experiences I've had in Orange County (and a good value too), and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it for all my sushi aficionados out there.

The Royce at The Langham
1401 S Oak Knoll Ave, Pasadena, CA 91106
626.585.6410
www.roycela.com
Sat 01/26/2013, 07:30p-01:25a





The Langham just can't seem to catch a break when it comes to its flagship restaurant. Old timey readers may recall that I was there for Michael Voltaggio's last night at The Dining Room back in July 2010. His stint there didn't even last a year, and he himself was a replacement for Craig Strong, who left to head up the kitchens of Studio down in Laguna Beach. I'm sad to say that I recently closed out the tenure of another chef, the talented David Féau, during the final night of service at The Royce. Ever since my first visit to the restaurant, I'd recognized the considerable skills of Chef Féau, who has consistently turned out plate after plate of some of the finest cuisine the Southland has seen. In the back of my mind, however, I always had an inkling that the place wouldn't last. Féau's cooking had too much finesse, too much complexity for guests of the old line hotel, and denizens of Pasadena in general. It never was a great fit I suppose, and though the Chef and his staff hung on for over two years, the Langham finally pulled the plug last December. It was a surprise to me, but then again, it sort of wasn't sadly.


Tonight, the menu for the whole restaurant was a $150 tasting with an optional $75 wine pairing, though Féau did include a few extra courses for our party at the Chef's Table. Click for a larger version.


1: "SENSES AMUSE" | sucré - acid - salé - fumé - croquant
Our first course comprised a striking quenelle of beet sorbet, coated with crème fraîche, dotted with caviar, and dusted with kaffir lime. It was a masterful presentation of beet, a stimulating jolt that deftly played the inherent sugariness of the root veggie against the salty, smoky roe and sharp sourness of the lime, all while the crème fraîche served to moderate and integrate the dish.


The housemade bread this evening included olive, bacon, and French baguette varieties.


2: SPINY LOBSTER | DAIKON RADISH | raw marinated spiny lobster, horseradish daikon "remoulade", sesame beets, escarole
Our first "bonus" course was spiny lobster from nearby Santa Barbara. The crustacean itself was spot on: supple and snappy, with a lovely freshness to it along with a subtly sweet brine. It was superb alone, but also went well with its pairing of a reimagined remoulade, which lent a certain savory, piquant weight and slight bitterness to the dish. Lovely crunch from the daikon as well, and I appreciated the sort of overarching sesame notes here too.


3: CLAMS | SEAWEED | steamed razor clams, "french kimchi", seaweed broth
The Chef's preparation of razor clam was easily one of the best I've had. The bivalve arrived steamed to a wonderfully firm, yet tender consistency, and was just teeming with a briny goodness that was only enhanced by the heady, aromatic clam-seaweed broth. Sea lettuce powder and sea grapes provided further points of interest in the dish, but the best accoutrement here was that "kimchi," which offered up a beautiful countervailing tanginess. Toward the end, I eagerly supped up the remaining liquid with my bread.


4: ARTICHOKE | LARDO | anzo artichoke "tulipe", white mushroom, lardo, mache bouquet
A "tulip" of artichoke came out looking quite handsome, grilled and draped with a veil of lardo and drizzled with espelette. The heart and stem here were certainly tender, with an earthy, vegetal flair that played off the considerable weight of the fatback, as well as the sweet-spicy flavors in the dish.


Next up was a gorgeous fillet of turbot, presented and plated tableside by Chef Féau.


5: TURBOT | MUSHROOM | seared turbot cheek, celery fish stock, cauliflower "tofu", hedgehog mushrooms, ginkgo nut
The turbot was just about perfect, with a beautiful texture (especially the cheek portion) and a refined, yet robust flavor. It was mouth-wateringly delicious alone, but the additional earthiness of the hedgehogs and lightness of the celery really made the dish sing. This just might've been the best turbot I'd ever had.


6: BLACK MULLET | FISH SOUP | seared black mullet fillet à la plancha, potato emulsion, canella fish jus, carrot-candy, fennel
In our next extra course, black mullet came out in flawless fashion, perfectly seared and just teeming with a fishy savoriness that was expertly played off of the tangy flavors of the fennel, tomatillo, and scarlet turnip. If that wasn't enough, we were also provided a potage made with fish head, shallot, and paprika, all contained under a potato espuma. The soup was something else, delivering a punch of ocean-y intensity, only slightly tempered by the potato.


At this point, Chef Féau teased us with a trio of French black Périgord truffles placed on the table, which he then proceed to shave generously over the next course. It was the height of truffle season, so the perfume on these was pretty incredible.


7: LENTILS | BLACK TRUFFLE | green lentils "du puy" & sweet peas ragoutté, pumpkin seeds, shaved winter black truffle
The famed lentils from the French region of Le Puy were done proud here. Served with pepitas, the amalgam of nutty, crunchy, and earthy sensations was beautifully set off by the amazing depth of the truffles, all while the peas added a contrasting sweetness and brightness to the course. A perfect dish--I just wanted to keep eating and eating.


8a: WAGYU | TWO SERVICES
The first of two beef preparations was the bone marrow "tempura." It reminded me a bit of a cromesquis, and its liquid-y center was just teeming with the rich, heady flavors of the moelle osseuse. A bordelaise sauce added further interest to the fritter, while the layers of shaved foie gras actually served to lighten the dish. There was a lovely peppery finish to the course, but I would've liked something--more acidity, more bitterness--to balance out the heft of the marrow.


8b: WAGYU | TWO SERVICES
Our final savory course brought us a Rossini-inspired cut of wagyu rib eye cap with bordelaise. The steak I found expectedly tender and fatty, with a boatload of bovine goodness and a nice char bitterness, all while the included greens provided a trace of levity to things. The foie gras, meanwhile, was presented in classic fashion, well-seared, and with lovely pricks of offsetting salinity; the portion size should've been smaller though.


9: GOAT TOMME | WHITE TRUFFLE | tomme de chevre, crispin apple, hazelnut, piemonte white truffle honey
Chef Féau has always been good about presenting some really strong, inventive cheese courses, and this dish just continued that trend. The Tomme here was dehydrated I believe, giving it a wonderfully salty, yet subdued flavor profile that paired in stellar fashion with the tart, juicy, translucent sheets of apple and sugary lines of honey, while the shavings of black truffle offered up a profound earthiness that did a great job in enveloping the entire dish. Bravo!


10: SUSHI RICE | LEMON GRASS | creamy vanilla "sushi rice", lemon grass milk
Our sort of pre-dessert was a dollop of vinegared rice pudding, set against a lemongrass milk. It was a light, refreshing smack to the palate, with the rice playing well off of the sweet, herby nuances in the dish.


Three types of petit fours were then brought out: nutty-sweet chocolate nougats, tart 'n' savory mini key lime pies, and my favorite, the delightful cheese tarts.


11: CREPE SUZETTE | WHITE CHOCOLATE | "crepe suzette", frozen chocolate ganache, valencia orange grand marnier, grapefruit ice cream
Dessert was a riff on the classic crêpe Suzette. It really did a nice job in conveying the quintessence of the traditional dish, with the sugary, boozy, and citrus notes working together here in good harmony. Lovely texture on the actual crêpe, too. I found the whole thing strangely reminiscent of an orange creamsicle!


12: PETIT FOURS & CHOCOLATE | the royce selection
Finishing things off was The Royce's signature squares of chocolate (fleur de sel dark, espresso milk, espelette white) and a cup of espresso.

By the time you read this, The Royce as we know it will be done, finished, fini. The restaurant will be revamped a bit, and will transform into a high-end steakhouse. It's not the most exciting concept, but at least it might become a candidate to take over the void left by CUT. The Royce v2.0 is slated to launch soon, in late February/early March, and I imagine I'll be there opening night in classic kevinEats fashion.

What's more interesting, though, is the fate of David Feau. Fortunately for us, he's not done with LA yet, and is planning his next move, probably a small, intimate place connected to a retail/wholesale boutique and boulangerie in South Pasadena. It's the type of venue that I think is better suited for the Chef's style of cooking, and the shop section of the business should provide for more financial stability. Look for the boutique to come to fruition in the coming months, with the restaurant to follow sometime after. À bientôt David!

Wolvesmouth Underground Dinner
Los Angeles, CA 90012
www.wolvesmouth.com
Tue 01/29/2013, 07:30p-11:30p



As I'm sure you've heard, Craig Thornton's inimitable Wolvesden is moving. That's right, the City's preeminent underground chef will be on the up-and-up come later this year, his hand forced by the inevitable limitations of running such an ephemeral eatery. Ever since my first Wolvesmouth meal (when they were still being run out of Shaun White's house), I've always deemed it undoubtedly one of LA's premier dining experiences. As such, a return trip was certainly in order prior to the big move, and a private dinner hosted by longtime reader Paul Lee was a great opportunity to revisit.


1: venison - pine - beet - blackberry beet - cauliflower - hen of the woods - blueberry meringue
The evening got off to a robust start with an absolutely visually-striking plate of venison. The deer was about as perfect as you can get, with a great depth and complexity and an almost fishy flair (from the pine?) that I really appreciated--wonderful. Also fitting were the accoutrements: the earthy mushrooms were a natural pair with the meat, and I enjoyed the lightness imparted by the cauliflower as well. However, the best part was the incorporation of blackberry, blueberry, and raspberry. Pairing berries with venison is old hat by this point, but the use of the fruit in various forms here lent a sort of overarching, yet subtle sweetness that really worked. I loved how Thornton served what would typically amount to a final savory course as his first dish; to hell with the amuse bouche!


Wolvesmouth has always been a BYOB affair, and we took full advantage of that fact. As you can probably tell, I've been on a bit of a beer binge as of late, so I ended up contributing six bottles from my stash. Starting things off was the Chimay Spéciale Cent Cinquante, which I imagine must be the brewery's first new beer in decades. It was made to commemorate their 150th anniversary, and 2,500 cases were distributed to only six states in the US, so this one was pretty rare. The beer did not disappoint, displaying a sort of Chimay White character, but with a spicier taste (from cardamom and coriander apparently) and a touch more hoppiness. An absolutely lovely tripel.


2: tuna - ponzu - squid ink tofu yuzukosho - mizuna - wasabi pea - snap pea - green onion - bok choy - sesame - uni
In New American cooking, is there anything more clichéd than seared tuna (preferably sesame crusted)? Well, here, Thornton takes what could be a trite dish and turns it completely on its head. The fish was on point to be sure, but what really made this special was how the various veggies complemented the tuna, bringing forth a bevy of bright, verdant flavors and multifaceted textures, all tied together by that tangy ponzu. If that wasn't enough, the combo of urchin and avocado added a palpable lushness to the plate that played foil to the greenery, and I loved the crunch and sheer savoriness of those wasabi peas as well.


3: broccoli - broccoli stalk - black cod - broccoli puree - lime
The Chef then delivered a seemingly simple-looking plate that held another stroke of brilliance. I'm a bit of a broccoli fiend, so the course was right up my alley, offering it up in tempura'd, stalk, and puréed with lime forms--a real celebration of the vegetable. The fish, though, was just as inviting: supple and buttery, a bit fatty, and rather profound, it was probably the best bite of black cod that I've ever had, and fantastic when taken with the broccoli in all its guises.


Our next bottle was an obscure Italian, the Birrificio Montegioco Tibir, an ale brewed with the addition of Timorasso grapes (used to make grappa) and aged in oak. This one was also to my liking, with its slightly bready, slightly funky flair and a delectably vinous character.


4: delicata - carrot - cabbage - coffee lime yogurt - cabbage-carrot - cocoa coffee - mustard
Carrot and squash: usually not a good combination given my disdain for their sweetness. This dish, though, worked, and had the added benefit of being rather stunning to look at (loved that shade of purple). The key, thus, was the use of crunchy shards of cabbage to counteract the sugariness inherent on the plate--genius. It was a stupendous match-up, and I quite appreciated the enveloping astringency imparted by the cocoa-coffee crumbles too.


5: crepe - red pepper harissa soubise - rabbit - celery root - cherry - brussels
With his "Swiss fondue," Thornton already holds the title for my favorite preparation of rabbit ever, but this dish is certainly a contender as well. Indeed, the meatballs here--all tender and juicy--were simply bursting with flavor; my mind was a bit blown given how much taste he was able to extract. I could've eaten a whole bunch of 'em all alone, but that would be missing the point, as that harissa was fantastic, providing just a light touch of heat and piquancy to go along with the meat. Let's not forget about the moderating effect of the crepe, and of course I was a fan of those pleasantly-bitter, cider-glazed Brussels sprouts as well.


For our third beer, we returned to Belgium with the Het Anker Cuvée Van De Keizer Rood, a strong pale ale from Flanders that's only brewed once a year on the birthday of Charles V (February 24th). This particular example was of the 2010 vintage and managed to be a table favorite, showing off the essence of a classic pale ale, but with something extra that I couldn't quite put my finger on--sort of like a sweet, earthy depth that I adored.


6: potato green garlic velouté - kiwi - egg - fried potato
Potato and egg are two of my favorite ingredients, so this was sort of a no-brainer. The egg arrived perfectly poached, and when pierced, unleashed a torrent of lush, rich goodness into the velouté, forming a delectable marriage that was then accented by the saltiness of those wonderfully crunchy potato chips. I really appreciated the use of pea tendril here to add some lightness into the mix too, while the kiwi provided a bright point of tartness to things. Classic flavors, but done up Wolvesmouth style.


The first American beer of the night was the Uinta Birthday Suit, an ale brewed with cherries. It was easily the most polarizing drink of the night given its marked, puckering sourness and balance of fruity sweetness, all laced with a hint of earthy funk.


7: green apple - grilled pineapple - lobster - sweet potato latkes - pork belly - lobster sauce - radish - chive
Thornton described his pork belly as "unabashedly savory" upon arriving at the table, and it was hard to argue with that. Indeed, the meat, a deft balance of lean and fat, conveyed all the headiness that you'd expect, but was further amped up by its accompanying lobster head sauce. The sauce, thus, also served to link the belly up with the fresh, sweet chunks of lobster on the side, and I positively adored those latkes as well--they were something that you'd just want a big plate of.


To pair with the heartier courses, I went with the Rogue XS Imperial India Pale Ale, a great example of the IPA style really, everything that you'd expect, with an apt balance between the hops and the caramel-y malt. Loved the ceramic bottle on this one, too.


8: blue cheese buttermilk - quail - cucumber - peanut - green tomato - pink lady - turnip - cucumber juice - grilled baby gem
Rounding out the savory portion of our meal was this buttermilk-fried, cornichon-marinated quail. The bird I found full of flavor, tender and juicy on the inside but coated with a delightfully crisp batter, all while the blue cheese added a certain tanginess to the overall effort. The use of cucumber in two forms, meanwhile, contributed a nice balance to the dish, but even better that was grilled baby gem and its crisp bite and char bitterness.


The final birra of the night, another hard-to-find Italian, was perhaps my favorite. The Birrificio Di Como Malthus Baluba was something that I'd had back in 2009 at Sage in Las Vegas. I fell in love with it then, and the memory of the beer stayed with me throughout the years until I finally decided to seek out a bottle. A dark ale produced with apricot, pineapple, ginger, and rue, it wowed a lot of us at the table with its combination of saccharine, acidic, wine-like flavors and an almost effervescent levity. A bit esoteric, but utterly divine.


9: cajeta - pistachio - banana - chocolate - glazed banana - freeze dried banana
Banana haters need not apply for our first dessert, which did an admirable job in showing off the fruit in various forms. As prevalent as the banana was, though, it was never overwhelming, but rather served as a restrained base to the dish, working seamlessly with the nutty pistachio cake while the cajeta added a touch of sugary spice to the fray.


10: mandarin - green tea - clementine - black sesame cake - black sesame parfait - yuzu curd
We concluded the evening with a course featuring one of my favorite dessert ingredients: black sesame. The sweet-yet-sorta-savory character of the sesame was flawlessly conveyed here, and I appreciated how it arrived into two forms. What really made this work, though, was its interplay with the tartness of the citrus fruit, making for a good mix of the sugary and the sour. Topping things off was a sprinkling of "pop rocks," which added a whimsical touch to the dish.


The current Wolvesmouth team: Andy, Shane, Craig, Caleb, Julian, Kimchi (dog). Not pictured: Bone and Paz.

It'd been a while since my last Wolvesmouth dinner, and tonight just reminded me of why the place needs to be on everyone's radar. The food was delicious sure, but also unconventional, beautiful, and painstakingly precise, with a certain confidence, clarity, and vision that's hard to come by--Thornton's cooking has gotten even better. Nobody's doing food quite like him in LA, and that's a fantastic thing. As for his future place, it'll be a small, intimate spot, with maybe two dozen seats, one that'll allow the Chef to offer the type of experience that he's made a name for himself with. The restaurant will likely be located in close proximity to his current loft near Little Tokyo, and may offer a lunch/take-out component as well. Sign me up.

City Club on Bunker Hill
333 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90071
213.620.9662
www.icityclub.com
Thu 01/31/2013, 07:15p-09:30p



When you think of private social clubs in LA, old-line names such as the Jonathan Club, California Club, and Los Angeles Athletic Club inevitably come to mind. However, you may not be aware of the newest member of that pantheon: the City Club on Bunker Hill. As a relative fledgling to the scene (it launched in 1989), the City Club prides itself on maintaining a more diverse (both in terms of race and gender), younger membership base. To that effect, the Club supports a Young Executive Committee, which just so happens to be chaired by Danni Li, a colleague of mine from Project by Project. Given Mr. Li's foodist tendencies, he's instituted the so-called YEX Test Kitchen, wherein the Club's Executive Chef Brian Ayers gets to create a special menu outside of the bounds of his normal offerings. Dining here is usually closed to non-members, so I figured that it was a good opportunity to see what the place was all about.


We were seated in the City Club's Tom Bradley Room, which provided for some great views of the Downtown LA skyline from the 54th floor of the Wells Fargo Center.


The Young Executive Test Kitchen menu comprised four courses at a very reasonable $35pp, with optional wine pairings. Click for a larger version.


Bread was your standard dinner roll--pretty prototypical, but it did its job and had me going back for seconds.


1: Hamachi, Yuzu, Serrano, Avocado
Ayers' first course of yellowtail was the standout dish of the night. The fish itself was exactly what you'd expect, with a slightly fatty, slightly briny character that was nicely paired against the lush, creamy goodness of that avocado purée. Yuzu and cilantro, meanwhile, added some well-placed pricks of acidity and herbaceousness, but even better was the sharp, lingering heat imparted by the slices of serrano. I quite appreciated the small mound of wakame seaweed on the side, too, which served to augment the ocean-y flavors of the hamachi. A table favorite.


2: Roasted Corn Soup, Shrimp Dumplings, Chorizo Oil, Cilantro
Our next course really showed off the essence of corn. It was a touch on the sugary side, but the use of chorizo oil did help balance that out. The soup worked well with the dumplings though, which I quite liked given their springy texture and tasty blend of savory and sweet flavors. The greenery, meanwhile, was key here too, adding a much-needed jolt of levity to the dish.


3: Slow Braised Berkshire Pork Belly, Vegetable Hash, Green Apple, Calvados Sauce
Pork belly was as tender and fatty as you'd expect, loaded with piggy flavors and a bevy of deep, dark nuances that conveyed an almost Asian-y tinge. At the same time, the mix of vegetables played foil to the meat, though I would've liked some more brightness and textural contrast on the plate to counteract the heft of the belly.


4: Saffron, Smoked Paprika and Confit Garlic Roasted Chicken Thigh, Cauliflower Puree, Olive Salsa and Goats Cheese
Our final savory brought out a confit'd thigh of chicken. The bird took on the flavors of the saffron-paprika-garlic combo quite nicely, showing off some delectable flavors, though it was a tad dry in certain places. The smoked goat cheese and olive added further complexity to the plate, and I appreciated the cauliflower as well, which served as a moderating base to the dish.


There was no dessert course per se, but rather, we were provided bowls of cookies, chocolates, and berries.

I was pretty satisfied with what the kitchen was able to turn out tonight. I mean, Wolvesmouth need not feel threatened here, but the plates were generally tasty, and certainly better than any event venue food I've had, not to mention the dreck I've been served at the Jonathan Club. I would say that the cocktail program here needs some work though, and I wasn't in love with the wine pairing either. Overall, I can't complain too much given the circumstances.

Providence Restaurant
5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.460.4170
www.providencela.com
Thu 02/07/2013, 07:45p-12:20a





Whenever people ask me for fine dining recommendations in LA, Providence has almost always been the first place that comes to mind. Since opening in 2005, the restaurant has firmly established itself as one of the premier dining destinations in the Southland, and its chef, Michael Cimarusti, has been universally hailed as among the City's finest. And I want to emphasize universally; people in this town seem to love to talk trash about chefs (Ludo, Mike Voltaggio, and David Myers seem to draw the most ire), but I've never once heard anyone speak negatively about him--that should tell you something. Though I've been to Providence seemingly numerous times for specialevents, my last "real" meal here was way back in 2009, and that's just not right. As such, a revisit was long overdue.


For this evening, we ended up with a whopping 15 diners, the largest party that I'd ever organized. Because of that, we booked the Sonoma Room, a private dining room that seats 16 (note a minimum charge of $3,000 for Thursday nights). For even larger parties, there's the option of the Cellar Room, which handles up to 22.


Arriving early at the restaurant, I was handed Providence's comprehensive drink list and soon found myself perusing the cocktails (I believe now the work of Laura Lindsay, following the departure of Zahra Bates). If that's not your thing, the beer and spirit selection here is also surprisingly well-curated. Click for larger versions.


like eskimos [$20.00] | pierre ferrand ambre cognac, spiced kuri squash, egg, cream, vanilla, black truffle
Unsurprisingly, I wound up with the Like Eskimos (hey, it had truffle in it!). It really was delicious though: creamy, eggy, redolent of earthy Périgord on the nose, and with a tinge of sweet spice that all paired beautifully with the drink's base of cognac. I loved the whole pomp and circumstance with the presentation of the truffles, too.


And here we see Providence's flagship Chef's Menu, a 16-course extravaganza at $175 per head, plus $115 for optional wine pairings from Sommelier Drew Langley. Click for a larger version.


1: greyhound
We began with the restaurant's signature amuse bouche, a spherified (or reverse spherified, most likely) Greyhound cocktail containing vodka and grapefruit juice. It showed off a bright acidity initially, leading to a mix of fruity and alcoholic notes on the midpalate. A fun burst of flavors.


2: scallop nasturtium
crémant d'alsace, hubert meyer m.v.
Another, newer mainstay on the menu is the whimsical Scallop Nasturtium, basically diced kombu-cured scallop and sushi rice in a nasturtium wrapper. It was a marvelous, perfect little bite, with the sweet, creamy scallop melding beautifully with the rice, then taken up another notch by the crunchy, savory bits of rice cracker sprinkled within. The nasturtium, meanwhile, contributed a delightful tanginess on the finish that balanced out the dish in stellar fashion.


3: squid and chorizo / abalone and miso
crémant d'alsace, hubert meyer m.v.
Up next were binchotan-grilled skewers that I'd last encountered at the OAD dinner in 2011. I first tried the Monterey abalone, done up with dashi and miso. It was superb, with a fantastic sweet-savory interplay from the miso and a delightful char character; lovely texture, too. The Japanese sword squid and chorizo skewer was arguably even better, with a mouth-watering kick of spiciness from the sausage that paired wonderfully with the subtle, tender squid.


4: uni canapé
crémant d'alsace, hubert meyer m.v.
The parade of hits continued with these bites of Santa Barbara uni, black truffle butter, and lardo de Bellota, all served on rectangles of focaccia. Unsurprisingly, they were delicious, with the creamy sweetness of the urchin playing perfectly off of the in-your-face smack of the lardo-focaccia combo. Some great transitions of flavors here, and one of my dining companions even likened the taste to eating "fried uni."


5: grilled kumamoto oyster | american caviar, smoked butter
crémant d'alsace, hubert meyer m.v.
Kumamotos arrived in a bed of seaweed, topped with a Champagne beurre blanc and Alverta caviar. The dish showed off classic oyster flair, with a mélange of creamy, rich, briny flavors set off by sharp pricks of salt from the sturgeon roe.


6: goma saba | cucumber, spring onion, nantes carrot, coriander seed, young ginger
moschofilero, tselepos 2011
Mackerel was marvelous, displaying a clean, focused, yet subdued salinity that perfectly matched the tart, crunchy pickles, all while the finish lingered on and on with the relish of the ocean. A flawless marriage of flavors and textures--I do not hesitate in calling this the best saba that I've ever had.


7: soy milk panna cotta | uni, geoduck, ikura, flowers and herbs
junmai dai ginjyo, kanchiku
Our next course was a redux of a dish Chef Cimarusti presented at 2011's Ibaraki benefit dinner at Breadbar. It was a beautifully composed plate, with the three types of seafood taking center stage and conveying some pure, unmitigated flavors that really tasted of the sea. I especially appreciated the firm, crunchy texture of the geoduck. To that, the soymilk panna cotta offered up a lush, creamy counterpoint, moderating the dish in effect, while the crunchy little bits present really added some well-placed savory accents to the fray.


Here, Providence GM/Co-Owner Donato Poto and a particularly hirsute Cimarusti (his "winter coat") made their first appearance to present and cook some beautiful just-in-season spot prawns.


8: spot prawn | hot rock, yuzu
sauvignon blanc, craggy range 2011
Cimarusti and company are known for their adept handling of spot prawns (particularly the salt-baked variety), and the version we had tonight did not let them down. Cooked briefly on hot stones, they were finished simply with a dash of yuzu, resulting in just about the purest, freshest, most profound expression of the ingredient possible, with a fantastically snappy texture to boot. The prawn roe, too, was tasty, with a lovely piquancy to it, and I really appreciated the head as well, with its smokier, weightier facets.


9: there's one born every minute | cabacerra ham, octopus, manila clam
chardonnay, "golden slope" liquid farm 2011
Despite the abstruse moniker, the risotto of octopus and clam managed to be a table favorite, and for good reason. The rice was spot on in consistency, and served as a flawless base to the tender, sweet bits of seafood strewn within. If that wasn't enough, the slices of ruby Ibérico neck ham added further layers of spice, savor, and complexity, while the entire amalgam was enveloped by a certain lightness courtesy of celery. A bigger bowl, please!


10: live scallops | lemon and salted butter
macon chardonnay, clos de la crochette, les héritiers du comte lafon 2008
Live New Bedford scallops were presented with their adductor muscles still attached to the shells, and served simply with French fleur de sel butter (Rodolphe Le Meunier's Beurre de Baratte), salt, and lemon. I was afraid that the butter would overwhelm the bivalve, but that simply wasn't the case. Rather, it provided a richness and depth to the dish that melded gorgeously with the inherent sweetness of the scallop, all while a slight touch of char added further interest to the course.


At this point, a magnificent filet of Brittany turbot, replete with truffles, was brought out to the table for us to take a gander at.


11: turbot | peas, black truffle, fumet
trousseau, le clousot, michel gahier 2011
After being plated, the turbot was brought back outside, accompanied by a pea salad and Périgord fumet. The fish was beautifully done, with a soft, delicate flavor that was keenly augmented by the Morbier-esque line of black truffle within. It was a smart combination of two disparate elements, and I absolutely adored the pea here too, which showed off some bright, verdant flavors that really set the dish off.


12: japanese wagyu beef | crushed butterball potatoes, baby carrots, spring onion, charred onion vinaigrette
cabernet sauvignon, heitz cellars 2007
Despite being a seafood-centric chef, Cimarusti has always had a knack for cooking up some of the best steak I've ever tasted, and tonight was no exception. What we had, thus, was real deal Japanese wagyu, grade A5, from Kagoshima Prefecture. It was pretty much flawless: melt-in-your-mouth tender, loaded with all the beefy, fatty flavor that you'd expect, and with a fantastic twang of char bitterness. One of my dining companions declared this the best steak he'd ever eaten, and I believe him. As good as the meat was, the accompaniments made sense, too. The Yorkshire pudding was runny and rich, comforting really, as were the potatoes, while the carrots made for a fitting touch of levity to the dish.


13: cheese selection
madeira verdelho, "historic series" rare wine co. m.v.
Providence's cheese cart is one of the best in the City, and we were able to enjoy four selections from it. Going counterclockwise from bottom-right, we had Casatica di Bufala (a creamy, soft, Italian water buffalo cheese with a mushroom-y character), Nuvola di Pecora (Italian sheep's milk with an earthy flair), green label Comté (raw cow's milk--sweet and caramel-y), and Dallenwiler Geisskase (a nutty Swiss goat cheese). Joining the fromage was housemade bread, quince and rhubarb jams, candied walnuts, and dried figs.


14: tangerine | kalamansi, avocado yogurt, white chocolate feuilletine
Moving now into the sweet stuff, we began with a sort of pre-dessert. A flawlessly smooth quenelle of tangerine sorbet was a jolt to the palate, putting forth some really bright, citrus-y flavors, moderated in part by the lushness of avocado, all while the feuilletine added texture and a nice savory tinge to the dish. Great as a palate cleanser.


15: crème fraîche, sablé breton | almond financier, chestnut jam, vanilla mousse
moscatel málaga, "victoria #2" jorge ordoñez & co 2008
Here we had the kitchen's riff on the classic Mont Blanc (whipped cream-topped chestnut purée), but done up in a visually-striking all-white visage. The dessert conveyed a marked sugariness up front that reminded one of my dining partners of "cupcake frosting." Balancing that out was the chestnut jam and slightly savory financier, all while the crème fraîche provided an undercurrent of tanginess.


16: caramélia mousse | manjari cream, milk ice cream, cocoa nib dentelle
amoroso sherry, el maestro sierra
Last up was a dual-layered mousse containing both Valrhona Manjari dark chocolate and Caramélia milk chocolate. It was actually overly sweet for me, and I would've liked some herbaceous or fruity notes to balance things out a bit. That being said, the milk ice cream did deliver a temper to the dessert, and I quite appreciated the textural aspect of the dark chocolate streusel and cocoa nib tuile.


17: petit fours
To close: peppermint macarons, caramels, and raspberry-tarragon pâtes de fruits.

A return to Providence was long overdue, but I'm really glad I made another trek out here. The food was even better than I remember, and it was fantastic to see how Cimarusti's cooking has progressed over the years. If anything, it's become even more precise, even more focused, with a cleaner, more ingredient-centric aesthetic and an acute nod to modernity. In a way, the plates are simpler, yet more profound, with boatloads of finesse and a palpable purity to them. If that wasn't enough, the beverage pairings by Drew Langley were top notch, and the service was to be commended as well. A lot of people call Providence the best restaurant in LA, and they might just be right--it's a must visit for Angelenos and foodie-focused out-of-towners alike.

chi SPACCA Restaurant
6610 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.297.1133
www.chispacca.com
Mon 02/11/2013, 09:00p-11:35p



The Mozza empire continues to expand. Yes, the holy trinity--Batali, Bastianich, Silverton--have just opened the butchery-focused chi SPACCA ("cleaver" in Italian) in the space once occupied by their Scuola di Pizza. The long-awaited restaurant debuted on February 4th, and features Chef Chad Colby's well-regarded housemade salumi and other meat-centric plates.

For those unfamiliar with what's been going on, it all started with a private dining room, one situated inside Mozza2Go and featuring an exhibition kitchen and plenty of seating. Nancy Silverton and Matt Molina started out teaching cooking classes there (hence the name Scuola di Pizza), but in late 2010, Silverton tapped Manhattan Beach native Chad Colby to hold weekly family-style, prix fixe dinners in the space. These became quite the sensation, and during this period, Colby had also been experimenting with preserving his own meat. He even built a special walk-in dry-curing room in the back, and established LA's first fully legit, fully legal salumi program.

As such, Colby began serving his resulting product at the Scuola dinners, and then, in May 2012, started a special Salumi Bar night on Thursday evenings. He even won 2011's Cochon 555 tasting along the way. At the beginning of 2013, the Salumi Bar expanded its days of operation, all seemingly in preparation for the launch of chi SPACCA. Apparently, due to alcohol licensing restrictions, the restaurant will only offer two seatings of 30 diners a night, starting at 6:00 and 8:00, Monday through Friday, though there'll be room for walk-ins at the bar. Saturday nights, meanwhile, will be reserved for "nose-to-tail" dinners. As for the pizza and pasta classes formerly held at the Scuola di Pizza, they'll be moved to daylight hours during the weekends.


The Scuola di Pizza hasn't changed much from its days hosting the family dinners, with the open kitchen clearly taking center stage.


The chi SPACCA menu, unsurprisingly, focuses on meat of multiple forms, though there are a few requisite salads as well. Desserts are handled by Mozza Pastry Chef Dahlia Narvaez, and to drink, you'll find a small, reasonably-priced chalkboard wine list featuring selections by the quartino. Click for a larger version.


affettati misti [$24.00]
You'd be remiss if you didn't start with a big platter of Colby's salumi, and perhaps the best way to experience it is to order the assortment of cold cuts. Going from top to bottom, we had:

• Whole Muscles: Colby specializes in whole muscle curing, and his expertise was evident here. The 24 month prosciutto was a superb example of the style, slick and soft, showing off a slightly sweet, nutty character balanced by fatty, savory notes in the ham. The capocollo (made from pork neck) was even more intense, with a deeper, meatier relish and a more substantial body.
• Salami: Moving on now, joe's tocai was a version of salami ostensibly cured with Tocai wine, which seemed to impart a slight floral character to the sausage. The garden chili variety, as the name would imply, showed off a delightfully kick of heat that I quite enjoyed.
• Pate & Terrine: The first forcemeat was Colby's bacon tenderloin, a spot-on terrine that beautifully highlighted the meat while contrasting it with the nuttiness and crunch of the included pistachios. Finally, we had the butcher's pâté, a finer, more aromatic preparation with a heady, liver-y flair to it. Yum.

pickles [$5.00]
A plate of pickles was useful in cutting some of the weight of the meat. I especially enjoyed the crisp carrot and cabbage varieties.


lardo mantecato [$8.00]
The accompanying bread was superb, displaying a certain sweetness that recalled the essence of Chinese youtiao. It was delicious alone, but the whipped lardo added even further luxuriousness to the dish.


warm squash blossoms ripiene [$12.00] | ricotta & tomato vinaigrette
Squash blossoms arrived brimming with ricotta, its lush, creamy, subtly sweet taste working well with the tart tomato. However, I really wanted more textural variation in the dish, as everything seemed to have a sort of uniform mouthfeel.


mizuna, baby kale & rucola [$14.00] | apples, red walnuts & piave
The kitchen then sent out a complementary salad course. The bitterness of the mizuna-kale-arugula combo was nicely played here, with a bright, bracing astringency that made sense against the contrasting flavors of the apple and walnut, all while the cheese added a weighty, salty overtone to the dish. Vegetarians may do alright here after all.


baby cauliflower [$12.00] | crushed lemon bagna cauda
I'm quite the cauliflower fiend, so this was a must-try for me. The bagna cauda sauce really added a fantastic depth and complexity to the vegetable, with the lemon providing a sort of overarching tartness that worked too. My only concern was that I would've liked the cauliflower to have a crisper, crunchier consistency.


funghi ripiene [$20.00]
I ordered this dish thinking that it would be one of our lighter mains, but I should've known better! Instead, the mushrooms arrived stuffed with pork sausage and veal that was rolled in caul fat. It sure was tasty though, showing off some really deep, dark, satisfying flavors that were only partially moderated by the greenery on the plate.


santa barbara spot prawns [$26.00]
Santa Barbara spot prawns arrived simply prepared, with a drizzle of lemon and olive oil working well with the sweet, saline relish of the crustaceans. Unfortunately, the prawns were on the smaller side, so they weren't quite as satisfying as I would've liked, especially when compared to a version that I'd just had at Providence.


red wattle pork "segreto" [$24.00]
Is the "segreto" here the same as the "secreto" cut of pork I'd enjoyed at Playground and é by José Andrés? Obviously this wasn't Ibérico, but the meat was delicious nonetheless: lean, yet immensely flavorful, with a delectable char bitterness and an aromatic counterpoint prominently featuring what I believe was rosemary.


pollo alla diavola [$25.00]
The chicken, meanwhile, was the surprise hit of the night. An entire half-bird was presented to us, and I eagerly went for the drumstick portion. I found the meat tender, juicy, and very pleasing to the palate, with a marked pepper-y kick and a wonderful jolt of creeping, lingering heat.


costata alla fiorentina [$175.00] | 42 oz.
Finally, we come to the evening's cavallo di battaglia, a massive 42oz T-bone that managed to be the priciest steak I'd ever eaten (though not on a per-ounce basis--that would have to be at CUT). The bistecca alla fiorentina was done up in classic fashion, cooked via chi SPACCA's wood-burning grill and simply seasoned. It was a tasty cut of meat, with a straightforwardly satisfying beefiness to it, along with a lovely char savoriness from the outer crust. I enjoyed being able to compare and contrast the tenderloin and strip sections too, finding the former to be expectedly more tender in consistency, but the latter having a more assertive flavor.


dario's olive oil rosemary cake [$9.00]
Moving on to desserts now, chi SPACCA had a threesome on offer, and, despite being rather full of meat by this point, we went for the trifecta. The first sort of reminded me of a fruitcake, with the herb-y, subtly savory components in the dish melding well with the tasty bits of dried fruit sprinkled within.


vanilla pine nut biscotti [$9.00]
The biscotti, meanwhile, was probably our favorite of the three. In fact, it was probably the best version of the biscuits that I'd ever had, crumbly in texture, and conveying a sweet, delectable sapor that reminded me of Chinese dan juan egg rolls.


tiramisu [$10.00]
The tiramisu, lastly, was also a very strong interpretation of the iconic dish, with a deft balance between sweet, boozy, and coffee-like flavors. Definitely get it if you're a fan of the dessert.

Chad Colby has garnered considerable acclaim for the quality of his salumi, and for good reason. His preparations were spot on, some of the tastiest bites of cured meat I'd had in a while actually, and his curing program should easily find its way among the City's best. In fact, chi SPACCA is worth a visit solely to try the charcuterie, though the rest of the menu is no slouch either. The place definitely represents a unique dining experience vis-à-vis its sister restaurants, and unsurprisingly, seems well on its way to becoming yet another hit for the Mozza group.

Allumette Restaurant
1320 Echo Park Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90026
213.935.8787
www.allumettela.com
Fri 02/08/2013, 08:10p-11:45p





When we last caught up with Chef Miles Thompson last summer, he was helming his Vagrancy Project pop-up at Bill DiDonna and Charles Kelly's Allston Yacht Club in Echo Park, serving up the most ambitious food that the neighborhood had ever seen. The experiment was largely a success, and owners DiDonna and Kelly decided to keep Thompson on and transform their place into the Chef's first solo effort: Allumette (French for "match," and also a matchstick-sized cut). The revamped restaurant debuted on January 31st, and given my satisfaction with his cooking previously, a visit was certainly called for.


As far as the interior goes, it hasn't changed all that much actually. It's a small, intimate space, set in tones of dark wood and red and with just a touch of Asian-y aesthetic.


Allumette's menu features around 15 small items divided into various sections, and the idea is to create your own tasting menu by ordering four to five of them. Naturally though, we just ended up requesting one of everything (except the large format plates) and sharing. As for the tipple, the cocktails here are in the capable hands of Serena Herrick from Hollywood's famed Harvard & Stone, while the wine list is curated by co-owner Charles Kelly. Click for larger versions.


You Live Only Twice [$11.00] | Sake - Beefeater Gin - Velvet Falernum - Tangerine - Szechuan Peppercorn - Fresh Lime
Gentleman's Breakfast [$12.00] | The Famous Grouse - Egg White - Lemon - Ginger Honey Syrup - Topped with Atomized Candy Cap Bitters and Islay Scotch
We were in a cocktail-y sort of mood though, and were determined to make our way through all seven of Herrick's creations. First out the gate was the possibly James Bond-inspired You Live Only Twice, which I found clean and fresh, with a nice blast of sweet, citrus-y spice set off by the zesty kick of Sichuan pepper. On the other hand, the Gentleman's Breakfast was much heftier, displaying an intensely aromatic nose of smoky peat leading to some nice change-ups between bitter, sour, and boozy nuances, all enveloped by a trace of ginger.


Thompson's bread and butter sort of rocked my world. What we had here was grilled focaccia accompanied by a fried butterball potato mash, with salt, Italian cheese, chive, and thyme. The bread itself was spot on, crisp and crunchy with a mouth-wateringly smoky, savory character, while the butter was even better, adding a pretty remarkable depth and lusciousness to the presentation. I've never had anything quite like it.


Ocean Trout Crudo - Yuzu Ponzu - Brussels Sprout - Pickled Grapes [$15.00]
The meal got off to a strong start with a crudo of ocean trout. The fish had a lovely savor and punch to it, amped up even further by the use of ponzu. At the same time, I really appreciated the slight astringency and levity provided by the Brussels sprouts, and the subtle overtones of heat were stupendous, really putting a great finishing touch on the dish.


Shimaaji Sashimi - Mustard Miso - Rice Crackers - Blood Orange - Kiwi [$14.00]
The striped jack was similarly tasty, with the clean, subdued fish taking on an additional complexity courtesy of the mustard-miso, while the fruit provided a nice touch of brightness, especially on the finish. I also loved the overarching heat imparted by the chilies here, and the crunch and savory kick of those rice crackers was spot on as well. Utterly balanced, with some wonderful flavor transitions.


Red Letter Day [$12.00] | Cocchi di Torino - Rhum J.M. - Orgeat - Fresh Lemon - Soda - Yuzu Bitters
Last Ango [$12.00] | Angostura Bitters - Smith & Cross - Orgeat - Pineapple Gomme - Fresh Lime
Our second round of cocktails brought us the Red Letter Day, a very light, somewhat tea-like drink with a refreshing interplay of bittersweet and citrus flavors all over a subtle undercurrent of Cocchi complexity. The Last Ango, meanwhile, made me think of Matt Biancaniello's legendary Last Tango in Modena, though there wasn't much similar except the name. It was one of my favorites though, with a fantastic nose of sugary spice moving toward a blend of bitter, sweet, and boozy notes on the palate.


Fried Oyster - Kimchi Ranch Dressing - Asian Pear Mignonette - Sea Spinach [$6.00]
I'm confident in deeming this the best fried oyster I've ever eaten. Indeed, the oyster itself was perfect: wonderfully crunchy and hearty on the outside, yet still creamy and briny within. It would've been just fine alone, but the kimchi ranch was genius, adding a tanginess, funk, and richness that complemented the bivalve in stellar fashion. If that wasn't enough, the pear added a fantastic crunch and juiciness that took the dish to an even higher level. A must try.


The second "bread" course was sort of an ode to American Southern cuisine, and featured a rectangle of brioche, topped with baby shrimp, okra, Angostura remoulade, and shrimp oil. There was a great depth to the bite, with the shrimp conveying a lingering hit of spice and savor that melded seamlessly with the remoulade, all while the brioche served as a light, slightly sweet base to the dish.


Herbed Sturgeon - Squashes - Poached Huckleberries - Artichokes Barigoule [$16.00]
Thompson did a great job with his sturgeon, giving it an immensely satisfying savoriness and salinity, along with a wonderfully firm, springy texture. It was delicious alone, but I also liked the use of artichoke as a counterpoint, and surprisingly, the sweetness of the berries and squash worked here, not overwhelming things at all, but instead making for an intriguing foil to the fish.


Grilled Octopus - Sour Apple Syrup - Cardamom Butterscotch Potato - Sorrel [$19.00]
The octopus was for sure one of the more adventurous preparations that I'd seen in a while. It was expertly cooked: supple and tender, yet with a good bite, along with a slightly sweet, slightly salty taste all joined by a light touch of char astringency. The interesting thing here was the amalgam of sour and spicy flavors that somehow managed to work with octopus, all underneath overtones of zesty sorrel.


Smoking Gun [$11.00] | Vida Mezcal - Cynar - Calisaya
Negroni Sbagliato #2 [$10.00] | Punt E Mes - Aperol - Graham Beck Brut - Fresh Sage
More cocktails. This time we had the Smoking Gun, which I rather enjoyed with its in-your-face smokiness up front and bittersweet midpalate, all leading toward a lingering, sweet finish from that Maraschino cherry. The Negroni Sbagliato #2 is a variation on the classic drink wherein the gin is replaced with sparkling wine. Personally, I found it even better than the original given the effervescence imparted by the South African sparkler, all combined with traditional flavors from the vermouth and Aperol.


Cavatelli - Uni Ragù - English Pea Purée - Poached Mushrooms - Fromage Noir [$16.00]
The cavatelli was divine, some of the best I've had in fact. I adored the firm, al dente texture on the pasta, and how it soaked up all the goodness from the uni, cheese, and white chocolate(?), all while the mushrooms contributed a well-placed earthiness and weight to the dish. The pea, meanwhile, was crucial as well, adding a bright, verdant pop to the course that really provided a perfect counterpoint to the pasta.


Szechuan Pork Dumpling - Cured Salmon Roe - Spicy Black Vinegar - Tarragon [$14.00]
Next, Thompson riffed on the classic shumai with his version of the pork dumplings. They were delicious, showing off some satisfyingly deep, dark, porcine flavors accented by a focused, vinegar-y tang. The greens, thus, were key in providing a sense of balance to the dish, and I appreciated the pricks of saltiness from the salmon roe as well.


Raviolo of Liquefied Blood Pudding - Scallop Carpaccio - Caramelized Anchovy [$14.00]
And now we come to the most potentially polarizing dish on the menu, so order carefully. Blood pudding can be sort of an acquired taste, and Thompson's ravioli conveyed all the earthy, heady, metallic flavors that you'd expect from it. It was pretty intense, so the scallop was key in moderating the dish, and also provided for some textural variation. Even better was the radicchio(?), which did wonders as a contrast to the pudding, and I appreciated the small loaf of bread included as well. Nice crunch from the pine nuts, too.


At Thompson's behest, Herrick sent out a special, off-menu whisky-based cocktail containing Famous Grouse, Amaro Averna, Angostura bitters, and orange. I loved the fragrant citrus nose on this one, along with the herb-y bitterness of the amaro and how the Scotch was so well integrated in the drink. A lot easier-drinking than it would appear.


The Chef then gave us a new dish to try, one that he was still working on: a braised lamb neck with cinnamon, turnip, clove, apricot, harissa, kimchi crab, star anise, and pumpkin. The meat, unsurprisingly, I found tender and quite "lamb-y," with a marked sweet spice to it. Radish was key in providing a contrasting bitterness to the dish, and also made for some great textural variation. My favorite thing here, though, was the harissa, which gave the dish a nice spicy kick. I would go a touch lighter on the clove and cinnamon, though.


Bitter Lettuces - Tangerine - Avocado - Smoked Soy Cream - Macadamia [$8.00]
Given the gravity of some of the preceding courses, a salad of various veggies was a nice reprieve. As the name of the course would imply, the bitterness of the lettuces was on proud display, a bracing, yet refreshing jolt of astringency that was duly moderated by the use of avocado and soy cream, while the tangerine added an apt sweetness on the finish.


Squab Breast - Date Soubise - Baharat - Cinnamon Labne - Grapefruit [$16.00]
Squab arrived done up in Mediterranean garb. The meat itself I found tender, smoky, and imbued with a blast of sweet spice that was actually a bit overwhelming. The bird was somewhat lost amongst the heady flavors of baharat, date, and cinnamon, though the squab "chips" did help, providing a lip-smacking saltiness that brought things back to the savory side.


Pork Shoulder - Bacon - Crosnes - Caramelized Onions - Feuille de Brick [$16.00]
Pork shoulder was delightful: fork-tender and utterly luxurious, with plenty of piggy goodness and a lovely sweetness from the caramelized onions, while the use of crosnes added further interest in each bite. I also enjoyed the shards of feuille de brick and their contribution to the textural interplay of the dish.


Carrot Salad - Sunchokes - Radishes - Pickled Turnips - Black Carrot Syrup [$9.00]
I'm no fan of carrots, but what Thompson did for this last savory course was pretty masterful. I loved how the root vegetables were presented in various facets and forms, each one adding something to the conversation of sweet, sour, bitter, salty, and spicy flavors.


Le Système Solaire [$10.00] | Oloroso Sherry - Dolin Blanc Vermouth - Bergamot Bitters
Our final cocktail brought us Le Système Solaire, a fine drink displaying the nutty, oxidative qualities of Sherry, augmented by the bittersweet, subtly herbal combination of the vermouth and bitters.


Citrus Curd - Rhubarb-Lime Gelée - Sumac - Poppy - Rose Geranium [$7.00]
Dessert time. The citrus curd conveyed a balance of sweet and sour flavors, contrasted against the spice of poppy seeds, with the rose geranium overlaying a whisper of floral character to the dish. The rhubarb-lime jelly, I must caution, though, was quite bitter, and will probably be off-putting to some. Be warned.


Cheesecake Mousse - Frozen Cookie Dough - Red Walnuts - Maple Syrup [$7.00]
My favorite of the three desserts was this sort of reimagined cheesecake. The slight tanginess of the mousse paired well with the sweet, frozen dough, making for a sort of butter cookie-esque sensation, while the maple kicked up the sugariness level even further. The walnuts, meanwhile, offered up a nutty component to the plate, and also imparted a nice crunch to things. A comforting dessert, with a great "crust."


Red Velvet Cake - Port Syrup - Coffee Milk Mascarpone - Colombier [$7.00]
We ended with a take on the classic red velvet cake, a "grown up" version according to my dining companion. Indeed, its sweetness was restrained, and instead gave us a palpable bitterness, amplified by the boozy notes from the Port and the soft astringency of coffee. A bit simplistic, but tasty.

Compared to what he was serving at his pop-up, Thompson's cooking now seems to have matured. There's more subtlety at play, more finesse, though the ambitiousness and stimulating flavor combinations are still there. Overall, I liked the food even better this time around, and I think his cooking is going to get stronger and stronger and time goes on--remember, he's only 25. As for what's next, the Chef is planning to implement a tasting menu option in the coming months, so that's definitely something to return for.

AOC Restaurant
8700 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90048
310.859.9859
www.aocwinebar.com
Mon 02/18/2013, 07:30p-10:45p





Since debuting in 2002, A.O.C. has been a benchmark for wine bars here in LA, and after 10 years in business, the restaurant has just gotten some brand new digs. Yes, earlier this month, Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne's acclaimed eatery moved into the space once occupied by Il Covo, Orso, and Walter El Nagar's pop-up Barbershop (which, coincidentally, is relocating to the old A.O.C. space). It'd been over three years since my last visit to the place, so I figured that this rebirth of sorts was a good excuse to return.


A.O.C.'s menu has been tweaked a bit, though it still features Goin's Cal-Med stylings, as executed by Chef de Cuisine Lauren Herman. Meanwhile, there's been more flux on the beverage side of things. The wine list remains the realm of Styne, but there's a new cocktail program in place, courtesy of barman Christiaan Rollich. Click for larger versions.


fire & smoke [$14.00] | alipus mezcal, tequila, blood orange, sweet wood infusion, arbol chile
Naturally, I had to give the newly installed cocktail program a go, and started off with the aptly-named fire & smoke. The woody, smoky essence of the mezcal/tequila combo absolutely made sense with the sweet, tart citrus notes present, and the chile de árbol added a lovely, overarching heat to the drink. Overall, nicely integrated, and surprisingly quaffable. Following, we went with wine, specifically a rather spectacular bottle of gigondas domaine la bouissieres '09 [$104], a big, fruity southern Rhône that I unfortunately forgot to snap a photo of.


young escarole, fennel, anchovy & parmesan [$9.00]
The meal started off light with this escarole salad, the bright, bitter greens pairing well with the crisp, focused flavors of shaved fennel and carrot. Anchovy and Parm, meanwhile, contributed a much-needed gravity to the course that did a nice job in tying everything together.


the farmer's plate [$15.00] | roasted vegetables, chickpea purée, muhammara, burrata & grilled toast
The requisite veggie plate, meanwhile, was actually pretty delicious, with the troika of burrata, hummus, and muhammara working hand in hand with the perfectly roasted, true-to-form vegetables. A pleasant surprise.


braised leeks, goat cheese, pancetta [$14.00]
Next up was an item from A.O.C.'s newly-instituted "focaccia" portion of the menu. The dish came out looking more like a pizzetta than what you'd typically expect from the bread, but was enjoyable nonetheless. I really appreciated how the sweetness of the leeks complemented the goat cheese here, as well as the salty kick of those crunchy pancetta strips. Lovely crispness on the crust, too.


clams, sherry, green garlic & toast [$14.00]
Clams were on point as well, with a pleasantly supple, yet substantial bite to 'em, while their subdued brine was augmented by the paired nuances of sherry and green garlic. They had just a delightful depth that I really appreciated. Very nice.


brioche, prosciutto, gruyère & egg [$14.00]
Bread, ham, cheese, egg. It's pretty hard to go too astray with these ingredients, and this course was no exception. We're talking classic flavors, with the prosciutto, egg, and cheese all coming together for a hearty, salty, satisfying mélange, only partially moderated by the light frisée and toasty bread. Foolproof.


arroz negro, squid & saffron aïoli [$14.00]
Rice arrived black as night, a touch below al dente, with a heady, ocean-y relish that amplified the soft, supple pieces of squid strewn within. The use of saffron added a distinct piquancy to the dish that I liked, and the astringency of the onions was even better.


salt cod-potato gratin, sweet peppers & mahon [$15.00]
A gratin of salt cod was utterly delectable, wonderfully fishy as you'd expect, with an almost fluffy consistency and a chewy, salty complement in the form of the Mahón cheese. At the same time, the peppers lent a certain brightness to the dish that kept things from going too monotone. Yum.


spanish fried chicken, romesco aïoli & chili-cumin butter [$13.00]
I have a hard time not ordering the fried chicken when I see it on a menu, so this was no surprise. The bird itself was expertly prepared: crisp and crunchy on the outside, yet still moist and tender on the inside. The nuggets were delish alone, conveying a pretty remarkable depth and complexity, but became even better with a dab of that romesco.


cauliflower, curry & red vinegar [$9.00]
Being the cauliflower slut that I am, this was a must-order. The course didn't let me down, delivering all the cauliflower goodness that I was hoping for, intermingled with the aromatics of curry and a whisper of acidity from the vinegar. Great texture on the veggie, too.


brussels sprouts, radicchio, burrata & breadcrumbs [$12.00]
Brussels sprouts are another fetish of mine, and presented here with radicchio, they were wonderful, forming a bevy of crisp, bright flavors that melded beautifully with the richness of the burrata, all while the breadcrumbs offered up a superb textural play to the dish.


pappardelle, kabocha, chanterelles, rapini & parmesan [$14.00]
Pappardelle, unfortunately, managed to be the weakest dish of the evening. Certainly, the pasta was well cooked, but the dish just seemed overly salty to me, and I wasn't a fan of the kabocha here either. I would've liked to have tasted more from the rapini, which I think would've provided a little more balance to things.


pork cheeks, polenta, mustard oil & gremolata [$16.00]
Pork cheeks were as falling-apart tender, rich, dark, and heavy as one would expect, with the polenta serving as a sort of temper to the meat. It was tasty, though I wanted more lightness and acidity from the gremolata here to provide some contrast on the plate.


wood-grilled whole fish, tomato rice, fried egg & crispy sopressata [$38.00]
We now move on to the "platters" portion of the menu, also a new addition. Up first was a whole sea bream, a magnificent specimen that I was quite fond of. The fish was spot on, with a mouth-watering, yet restrained brininess and a delightfully crisp, savory skin. It was delicious alone, but a fried egg makes everything better, and that was the case here for sure.


house made sausages, mustard potatoes & red cabbage in red wine [$36.00]
Sausage and potato--two of my favorite comestibles, together at last. We had a couple varieties of tubed meat here, and each was unique and delicious in its own right. Pair that with some hearty taters, tangy kraut, some red wine, and you have yourself a hell of a dish.


Desserts remain the charge of longtime Pastry Chef Christina Olufson. Click for a larger version.


dessert platter to share [$24.00] | vanilla pot de crème with spanish chocolate and marcona almonds / chocolate torta with coffee cream, medjool dates, candied almonds and hazelnuts / assorted house-made chocolates and confections
Given that we were already burstingly full by this point, we went easy on the desserts, and just ordered a platter to share. There was a nice variety of sweet treats here, and I was particularly enamored with the s'mores and that chocolate-covered honeycomb toffee, which recalled a grown-up Butterfinger.

A.O.C. seemed to have lost none of its verve in the move. The restaurant is back and better than ever, serving up old standbys, new favorites, and cocktails(!), all in a comfier, cozier environment. It's a winning combination that's going to make the place a fixture in the neighborhood for years to come. As for what's next for Goin and Styne, following the success of The Larder at Maple Drive (which bowed in fall 2011 and also serves as home base to Lucques Catering), the duo is planning another café-cum-bakery in the form of The Larder at Burton Way, as well as a restaurant in the wealthy enclave of Montecito. And that's not all: a version of The Larder at Tavern is set to debut this year inside the Tom Bradley International Terminal at LAX. Big things poppin'.

WineBar at CoffeeBar Pop-Up
600 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.327.1157
www.coffeebarla.com
Thu 02/21/2013, 07:30p-10:10p





The City's latest pop-up comes to us courtesy of Greg Bernhardt.

A bit of history for the uninitiated: Bernhardt's an LA stalwart who cut his teeth at Le Dome and Vida before becoming Neal Fraser's Chef de Cuisine at Grace (he even assisted Fraser on Iron Chef America, defeating Cat Cora in Battle Pork). In 2007, he was hired by Steven Arroyo to run things at 750mL in South Pasadena, but left soon after to open Church & State. His tenure there was brief, though, and he was out by November 2008, replaced by none other than Walter Manzke. From there, he moved on to several iterations of LudoBites, serving as sous, then went on to consult at The Kitchen Table with Fernando Darin. His latest gig is with ACME Bar Group, where he's serving as Executive Chef for a number of projects, one of which is a revamp of CoffeeBar in Downtown's Old Bank District.

Bernhardt is planning to transform the space into a legit restaurant. But before then, he's holding a temporary dinner series with his friend Sergio Perera, another LudoBites alum whom we last encountered at the Amalur Project pop-up at Marcona. The unfortunately-named WineBar @ CoffeeBar debuted on February 6th, and runs Tuesdays through Sundays until mid-March.


The WineBar@CoffeeBar menu features a compact list of reasonably-priced dishes, designed as a collaborative effort between the two chefs. A small group can easily run the gamut here, which is exactly what we did (though the mushroom course was curiously omitted). To drink, there's a small selection of wines (all available by the glass), as well as a handful of beers, and coffee too, I suppose. BYOB is a possibility. Click for larger versions.


What better way to start than with some bubbly? Hence, we popped a bottle of the N/V Capdevila y Pujol Brut Nature [$29], a dry, quaffable sparkler that worked out well enough.


Jamon [$12.00] | Ciabatta, Tomato
Up first was a straightforward plate containing slices of nutty, fatty jamón serrano. The ham itself was spot on, but the paired pan con tomate fell short, being rather tough to chew and providing too little in terms of offsetting tomato tartness.


Next, Perera presented an extra plate comprised of potato "nests" encircling whipped crème fraîche, bottarga, lavender flower, and mustard. They were delicious little bites, with a wonderful crunch and the salty, satisfying weight of the potato playing off the tangy cream in commendable fashion. A great amuse bouche-y type of course.


Cured Snapper [$12.00] | Yuzu Koshu, Radish, Olive Oil, Herbs
A crudo dish of sorts featured clean, supple cuts of red snapper, nicely enhanced by the weight of the olive oil "caviar" present and the undercurrent of vegetal nuances provided by the kale oil. My favorite thing here, though, was the use of yuzukosho, which lent a salty, spicy intensity to the finish that I was quite enamored with.


Potato Soup [$8.00] | Egg, Chorizo
Up next was Bernhardt's riff on Ludo's well-known "Poached Egg, Potato Mousseline, Chorizo" dish. Though it didn't quite reach the lofty levels of its predecessor, the dish was tasty and stood on its own merits. The velouté formed a rich, hearty base to things, and the interplay between the egg and overarching spice of the chorizo was classically effective. At the same time, the incorporation of brown butter croutons added a nice textural element, and I believe also imparted a slight sweetness to the mix.


Our second wine was the Fiano di Avellino 2011, Struzziero 'Vigna Pezze', Campaina, Italy [$39], which I was quite fond of. In fact, my dining companions and I all loved its bright, honeyed, stonefruit-laced sweetness and crisp, refreshing character.


Baby Vegetables [$12.00] | Buttermilk, Kale
The requisite veggie plate arrived beautifully presented. The various items here showed off a bevy of bright, bitter, verdant flavors and a delightful mélange of textures, all while the included vinaigrette and kale oil served to tie everything together. Surprisingly satisfying.


Beef Tartare [$12.00] | Pepper Cress, Rye, Cured Egg Aioli
The beef tartar made a nice showing, conveying a great herbaceousness from the cress and nasturtium that melded seamlessly with the gravity of the meat, all while rye dust imprinted a palpable earthiness to the dish. I also quite liked the aioli here, which added a palpable punch to things and did a great job integrating the various elements at play. Superb when taken with the accompanying bread.


Fried Squid [$9.00] | Ink Salt, Citrus Aioli
Now this I found quite whimsical, as well as tasty, with the squid's crisp, briny crust working well with its supple, creamy insides. A dab of the tangy aioli, meanwhile, served as a fitting finishing touch to the dish, making this a fun take on traditional fried calamari.


Pork Cheek [$10.00] | Shelling Beans, Sherry, Marjoram
Pork cheek was just as you'd expect: falling-apart tender and teeming with dark, sticky, porcine flavors, all while the red pepper sherry vinaigrette imparted a bit of balance to things. I really appreciated the flageolet and cranberry beans here, too, which worked as a fantastic counterpoint to the pork.


Our final beverage was the De Struise Rio Reserva, a rather hard-to-find Belgian that I'd brought from my collection. It was an intriguing beer to be sure, a golden quadrupel brewed way back in 2008, aged for a year in Bordeaux barrels, then aged another three years in Bourbon barrels before finally being bottled in 2012. I quite enjoyed it, with its multifaceted burst of spicy, fruity, caramel-y, and woody flavors intermingled with a marked, pervasive alcoholic tinge. Very cool.


Oxtail Soup Dumpling [$12.00] | Parmesan
Oxtail was as hearty and satisfying as I wanted, putting forth some really deep, satisfying flavors that played nicely with the included shavings of Parmesan. The pasta, meanwhile, did a great job in providing a textural counterpoint to the meat, and also served to ground and moderate the dish. However, a bit more brightness or acidity would've been nice.


Pork Belly [$10.00] | Pickled Purple Onion Petals, Sancho Pepper
We ended the savory section of our meal with a lovely presentation of pork belly. The meat arrived expertly prepared, with a boatload of piggy flavors and a great balance between fat and lean, along with a wonderfully crisp crust. Certainly, the belly stood alone, but the various greenery worked wonders in providing contrast and levity to the plate.


Bourbon Apple Brûlée [$8.00] | Creme Fraiche, Crisp Almond Cake
A cooked apple gave us a satisfying crunch as well as a burst of sweet, spicy flavors, intertwined with a touch of herbaceousness (rosemary?). I quite liked the almond financiers here too, while the crème fraîche certainly added a light, tangy temper to the dessert.


Sponge Cake [$8.00] | Lemon Curd, Chocolate Cremeux, Yogurt
The sponge cake (aerated brioche?) showed off an almost impossibly light, ethereal consistency, one grounded by the chocolate-y, fruity notes present. A dash of thyme, olive oil, and salt, meanwhile, added a savory twang to the dessert that really took it to the next level.

This was another laudable showing from Perera, and it was great to finally be able to taste Bernhardt's food for the first time as well. I will say, though, that since this was a collaborative effort, the menu didn't have as much cohesion as I would've liked. That being said, there were some great dishes presented tonight. As for what's next for the duo, Chef Bernhardt will be launching 6th Street Tavern in place of the old Urbano Pizza Bar in the coming weeks (where he'll likely spend most of his time), and CoffeeBar will be rebooted as well, turning into a bona fide restaurant. Chef Perera, meanwhile, will be consulting at Marcona for a bit, and will continue firming up plans to open his first solo project in LA. Stay tuned.

Bar Ama Restaurant
118 W 4th St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.687.8002
www.bar-ama.com
Tue 02/12/2013, 07:15p-09:40p



When we last encountered Josef Centeno, he was busy mixing things up at his well-received Bäco Mercat, which he opened to considerable fanfare in November 2011. Fast forward to last December, and we have the arrival of the Chef's newest venture, also situated in Downtown: Bar Amá. Modeled after a Tex-Mex cantina of sorts, the restaurants aims to serve elevated interpretations of the food that Centeno grew up with, inspired by the memories of the women who raised him (Amá translates to "lady" in Spanish).


Inside, things are set up in a similar fashion to his other restaurant, with the bar on one side and the dining room on the other, though it is a slightly warmer space.


The Bar Ama menu features most of your Tex-Mex favorites, some of which were drawn from Centeno family recipes, as well as a number of more globally-influenced plates. A full drink selection is also available, though the focus here is clearly on the tequilas and mezcals (it's probably the best collection I've seen). Click for larger versions.


Papitas Bravas [$5.00] | bus driver sauce, pg spice
We began with a snack that may or may not have been inspired by the Spanish tapas dish of patatas bravas. It comprised potato chips basically, wonderfully crunchy ones with a mouth-tingling, multifaceted spice and savor. Amping things up even more was the Chef's "bus driver" sauce, a reworked version of serrano-based salsa arriera (mule driver's sauce).


Tahoma Limon [$12.00] | Mezcal Joven, Lime, Sugar
Zapatista [$12.00] | Bacanora Blanco, Serrano, Cilantro, Honey, Citrus
Cocktails ended up being the libations of choice this evening, and first on that list was the Tahoma Limon. It was sort of a classic presentation of mezcal, with the tartness of the citrus up front leading to smoky mezcal nuances on the midpalate, all while the sugar provided a sweet undercurrent to the drink. The Zapatista, on the other hand, featured the intensity of the bacanora (mezcal made in Sonora, basically) on the attack, which then led to an interplay of chile and honey flavors on the way to a long, lingering finish.


Chile Shrimp Ceviche [$12.00] | watercress, pickled red onion, lime
The ceviche arrived looking more like a salad, but all the expected flavors were there. The lime, naturally, gave the dish a sour edge, though the pomegranate did add some sweetness to the fray. I really appreciated the tanginess and crunch of the red onion as well, and the overarching heat in the dish was spot on, too. Overall, there was a pretty good balance of contrasting flavors here, though the texture on the shrimp could've been more satisfying (they were a bit limp).


Fideo w/Octopus & Kielbasa [$11.00] | vermicelli, shrimp broth, pepitas
A dish of fideo noodles, octopus, and sausage was a table favorite. I was a fan of the disparate textures of the two types of meat, as well as the more delicate, sweeter taste of the octopus versus the more in-your-face savor of kielbasa. This was a hearty, comforting dish, with a nice crunch from the pepitas.


Mom's Fried Rice [$6.00] | zucchini, tomato, garlic
What we had here was a version of the arroz one typically associates with Tex-Mex cooking, but enhanced by the inclusion of some bright, tasty bits of vegetable that added a certain lightness to the dish.


Cauliflower & Cilantro Pesto [$9.00] | cashew, pine nut, lime
Our server recommended this cauliflower dish, and she was right on the money. The light, aromatic pesto here worked brilliantly with the undertones of heat in the dish in providing a counterpoint to the vegetable, and I loved the crunch imparted by the nuts as well. Nice crispness on the cauliflower, too.


Crispy Chicharrón [$13.00] | lime, bus driver sauce
The chicharrones were another highlight of the meal, displaying a beautiful mix of lean and fat, along with a wonderfully crisp crust and a boatload of pork-y savor. The lettuce was crucial in tempering the sheer heft of the belly, and I appreciated the finishing touch of spice imparted once again by that "bus driver" sauce.


Chingon [$12.00] | Tequila Reposado, Citrus, Orgeat, Benedictine, Orange
The Chingon was named after the Mexican slang term for "badass," and the drink almost lived up to its moniker, conveying a balanced mix of sweet and sour flavors over a base of boozy, slightly medicinal flavors.


Nana's Frito Pie [$13.00] | lengua chile con carne, crema, mulato
And now, we come to what is perhaps Bar Ama's most infamous dish, the Southwestern classic of Frito pie, retooled and served in a skillet rather than the traditional foil bag. It was one of my favorites, giving us a rich, hearty base of flavors from the tongue chile and cheese, while the sour cream and mulato pepper offered up some contrast to the gravity of the meat. The various elements came together very nicely here, and I loved how the crunch of the Fritos was still intact. A bit slutty, but a must order nonetheless.


Mom's Green Enchiladas [$12.00] | chicken, tomatillo, monterey jack
As much as I enjoyed the aforementioned pie, I thought the enchiladas were even better, probably the best I've had in fact. Though the ingredients here were par for the course, the execution was spot on, with the homey, hearty chicken melding perfectly with the housemade tortillas and cheese, all while the tomatillo, onion, and crema served as well-placed tempers in the dish.


Grilled Shrimp [$12.00] | jalapeno cream
If you come to Bar Ama, you'd be remiss if you didn't try the restaurant's puffy tacos, a preparation in which the tortillas are fried until they balloon up, ostensibly invented in the Chef's hometown of San Antonio. It wouldn't surprise me if these were better than the originals though, as they were delicious. The shrimp was on point, not overdone, but with a nice char and a slightly briny taste that worked beautifully with the taco's spicy, creamy dressing. Meanwhile, the avocado and veggies provided a lightness to the dish, and I loved the crunchy, yet supple shell as well.


Carne Guisada [$11.00] | hierba santa chile sauce
Out second set of puffy tacos were stuffed with carne guisada, basically stewed, shredded beef in a hoja santa-based sauce. Though it didn't quite reach the lofty level of the shrimp, this was delectable as well, with the meat displaying a great flavor and a delightfully complex tinge of heat, all while the avocado and lettuce served to complete the dish.


Banana Leaf Wrapped Rabbit Leg [$24.00] | avocado, sesame, almond
Cooked falling-apart tender in a banana leaf, the rabbit leg showed off a certain richness and depth to it that paired superbly with the dish's nutty, almost mole-esque sauce. This was a heavy, hearty course, with the corn serving as a lovely accoutrement.


Chicken Fried Steak "Kinda Traditional" [$22.00] | cream of wheat, fried egg
Our final savory was the chicken fried steak. I was really looking forward to the dish, but it was, unfortunately, the weakest course of the evening. I wasn't enamored with the beef here, finding it on the tough side, and not particularly flavorful. I liked the taste and crispness of the batter, but it had a hard time adhering to the cutlet. On the plus side, the egg made sense here, and the onions counteracted the heft of the meat commendably. This had the potential to be a great dish, but just didn't work out.


Alice's Cooler [$11.00] | Tequila Blanco, Lime, Simple Syrup, Hibiscus Soda
Luz's Cooler [$11.00] | Smith & Cross, White Rum, Pineapple-Canela, Velvet Falernum
We actually ordered these two cocktails earlier on in the meal, but they came out super late (right before dessert), and thus ended up being comped by our server (a nice touch). That's not to say, however, that we didn't drink them. Alice's Cooler was herb-y and sweet, with a soft, refreshing, feminine quality to it that made it go down easy. Luz's Cooler, on the other hand, was harder-edged, with a boozy base from the rum aptly playing off of the tangy, sweet-spice notes in the drink.


All of us were quite stuffed at this point, but dessert was still a must. Click for a larger version.


Leche Quemada (Burnt Milk) Pudding [$9.00] | Graham Cracker, Fennel Pollen, Peanut, Almond
A dessert featuring leche quemada (cajeta or dulce de leche, basically) was rather fetching. The pudding itself I found intriguing, with a fruity, spicy sweetness to it that I couldn't quite put my finger on, perhaps due to the fennel pollen. The flavors really worked out well here, and I loved the crunch of the Graham cracker and peanut, too.


Coconut Tres Leches [$8.00] | Coconut, Cream, Vanilla
We ended with Bar Ama's riff on the classic pastel de tres leches. This was a dense, but not overly heavy cake, with the sweetness of the milks pairing with the coconut to give the dessert an almost Southeast Asian character to it.

In the end, Centeno is putting out some fairly faithful reproductions of Tex-Mex cooking here. He's not reinventing the wheel, but rather, trying to bring out the best of the genre by using higher quality ingredients and more precise technique. Not counting the whiff with the CFS, the results are pretty promising, with the Chef's more focused, purer flavors undoubtedly elevating the oft-maligned cuisine. Indeed, the cooking's a bit rougher, and not as refined or nuanced as what he's done at Bäco Mercat or even Lazy Ox, but then again, it probably shouldn't be.

Invitation Only at Playground 2.0
220 E 4th St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
www.playgrounddtsa.com
Thu 03/07/2013, 07:00p-10:15p





Since debuting in November 2011, Playground has firmly established itself at the forefront of the Orange County dining scene, earning legions of followers in the process. As sharp as Chef Jason Quinn's cooking is, though, there was just something more that he wanted. He dreamed of a place where he could truly celebrate his obsessively-sourced, often times scarce ingredients, an intimate venue where the bounds of cost, complexity, and time go out the window. His vision has been realized in the form of IO, an invitation-only dining series held sporadically at 2.0, a "culinary theater" of sorts situated right next door to the main restaurant (the space is also used for private dinners, pop-ups, cooking classes, and other special events).


Inside, you'll find an intimate room housing 17 seats surrounding a well-equipped exhibition kitchen. There's only one seating per night, which starts promptly at 7:00 (and I mean promptly--we arrived at 7:02 and people were already eating). The roughly 30-course omakase-style degustation will set you back $250 per head (inclusive of food, drink, tax, and tip), and tickets must be purchased in advance.


1: WATER & LEMON
Tonight's menu, entitled "When the Dog Bites and the Bee Stings," started off with a seemingly innocuous goblet of water with lemon. It held a stealthy secret though: the lemon was actually a Lemon Drop in jellified form, an admixture of vodka, lemon juice, and sugar that left a boozy, acerbic imprint on the palate.


Chef Quinn then introduced the team and gave us a brief spiel on what IO is all about.


2: PASSION FRUIT WELCOME | vanilla custard
Serving as an amuse bouche of sorts, the spoon deftly played the tart, tangy passionfruit against the tempering effect of the vanilla.


The kitchen having some fun with the liquid nitrogen used in our next course.


3: NITRO JAPANESE BABY PEACH CAIPIRINHA
A liquid nitrogen-laced caipirinha showed off all the boozy, sweet, and sour notes of the classic cocktail, but in a creamy, dense, lush form, capped off by an absolutely delightful momo chan baby peach at the bottom.


4: BLOODY OYSTER | beet juice fed kushii, beet mignonette, horseradish tapioca, fresh lemon
Next was arguably the most ambitious preparation of oyster that I'd ever experienced. Quinn procured some Kusshis, then, after some experimentation, kept them alive in a mixture of salt water and beet juice. As a result, not only were the oysters dyed a brilliant magenta, they were postively imbued with the sweetness of the root vegetable, which served as a fantastic counterpoint to the salinity of the bivalves. I loved the textural component from the tapioca as well.


5: JIDORI OYSTER | a tribute to Uncle Lou
Quinn presented an homage to Memphis' legendary Uncle Lou's with this marvelous Jidori chicken oyster (a version of the dish made with regular parts is available at the main restaurant). The oyster is a prized part of the bird near the top of the thigh, one renowned for its firm, satisfying consistency and taste. Here, it was perfectly done, wonderfully crisp, and with boatloads of chicken-y savor balanced by a marked vinegar-y tang. I'd love a bucket of the stuff!


A napkin to wipe our fingers with: just add water (last seen at Baumé).


6: JASON'S FAVORITE INGREDIENT | paletta iberico de bellota
Ah ibérico de bellota paleta--can't go wrong with this. Strictly speaking, it's not the same as the more popular jamón, but rather, a similar cut from the front legs of the pata negra. It was just as tasty though: fatty and slick, with a rich, nutty flavor that's always satisfying.


7: CHAMPAGNE & CAVIAR | rio frio caviar
Chef Carson then presented one of his signature dishes, the "Champagne & Caviar" that I'd first had over at AnQi. It was lighter, and better balanced than I remember, with the sweetness of the geleé transitioning beautifully to the salty jolt of the Spanish caviar. Whimsical.


8: CANARY ISLAND OCTOPUS CEVICHE | golden truffle sauce, red onion, tortilla
LARMANDIER-BERNIER TRADITION PREMIER CRU CHAMPAGNE
Quinn mentioned that his favorite octopus in the world comes from the Canary Islands, and I can't say that I disagree. The cephalopod was cooked to a super tender consistency here, and worked flawlessly against the spicy, herbaceous notes in the bite. Loved the contrasting crunch of tortilla chip, too. I wouldn't have minded several more of these to munch on.


Rhett Butler works as Playground's sommelier, and also serves as host for IO. Here, he talks to us about our next sake pairing.


Jason having way too much fun with the geoduck.


9: LIVE GEODUCK CLAM | Yuzu Koshu
YUKI NO BOSHA "CABIN IN THE SNOW" JUNMAI GINJO SAKE
All joking aside though, this was some damn good mirugai. Served simply with yuzukosho, lemon, and Maldon sea salt, the clam showed off a gorgeous crunchiness, and its brine was perfectly moderated by the spicy, salty, and sour nuances present. Flawless.


Here, Chef Quinn dispatches some sizeable live scallops, several of which had apparently feasted on small fish prior to being captured (as shown in the second photo). In the third photo, note the grating of real wasabi using an oroshigane.


10: LIVE SCALLOP | olive oil, lemon, beautiful soy, wasabi
YUKI NO BOSHA "CABIN IN THE SNOW" JUNMAI GINJO SAKE
The aforementioned scallops--so fresh, so clean--were presented on a platter meant for sharing, and were accompanied by flavors that highlighted the inherent nuances of the mollusk without overpowering them. I was especially fond of that wasabi.


Quinn showed us the shoyu used in the course above, which is supposedly some of the best soy sauce around.


11: KANPACHI | pickled ginger, lime, fish sauce, jalapeño, masago
YUKI NO BOSHA "CABIN IN THE SNOW" JUNMAI GINJO SAKE
The scallop was followed by another shared plate, this one filled with glistening pink slices of amberjack. The fish was firm to the bite, with a fresh, clean taste augmented by the weight of the fish sauce, all while the ginger added a great, tangy counterpoint to the course. Loved the savory crunch of those little rice crackers, too.


12: JICAMA WRAPPED LIVE SEA URCHIN | toasted coconut, macadamia, avo mousse, compressed cucumber
YUKI NO BOSHA "CABIN IN THE SNOW" JUNMAI GINJO SAKE
"Tacos" of jicama-wrapped uni conveyed the bright, juicy snap of the root vegetable initially, while the nutty crunch of the macadamia arrived later on the palate, before the bite finally finished with a touch of sweet salinity. I would've liked the sea urchin to have been a bit more dominant here though.


13: 500 DEGREE SHRIMP COCKTAIL | lime, horseradish, tomato
DUCATO/DRIE FONTEINEN BEERSEL MATTINA
In our most "hands-on" course, spot prawns were cooked in 500-degree salt (a preparation perhaps popularized by Providence) and presented beautifully with a housemade "cocktail sauce." I first tucked into the tail portion of the shrimp, and it was spot on, with a snappy, slightly rare texture and mild relish that paired swimmingly with the salty globules of roe still present. The head (gotta suck the head!), meanwhile, was a must-try as well, with a sharp ocean-y character to it that went well with the crustacean's salty crust.


14: DOUBLE DOUBLE | fuck you
DUCATO/DRIE FONTEINEN BEERSEL MATTINA
A reimagined Double-Double, courtesy of Chef Carson, really captured the essence of the original, with the meatiness of the "patty" working in unison with the crisp veggies and the overarching "secret sauce."


15: FRIED GEODUCK BELLY | lemon-caper-shallot aioli
2011 GROTTA DEL SOLE- GRAGNANO DELLA PENISOLA SORRENTINA DOC
While the trunk of the geoduck was presented above, the belly of the beast was served later in the meal on a passed plate. Fried into golden fritters of goodness, the clam was fantastic--tender and savory, with a superb complement in the form of that tangy aioli. And yes, a comparison to the Filet-O-Fish was even tossed around.


16: OTOKOMAE & O TORO ACTING ITALIAN | o toro prosciutto, fancy olive oil, 25 year balsamic
2011 GROTTA DEL SOLE- GRAGNANO DELLA PENISOLA SORRENTINA DOC
Here, the kitchen riffed on the classic pairing of mozzarella and prosciutto, using instead tofu from Kyoto producer Otokomae and homemade two-week cured otoro "ham." The result was a harmony of sweet 'n' sour flavors on the attack, transitioning on the midpalate to the fishy aromatics of the tuna, all while the tofu served as a tempering base to the bite.


17: BONE MARROW SFORMATO | iberico de bellota chorizo marmalade, tyler's sourdough mini boules, truffle salt
2011 GROTTA DEL SOLE- GRAGNANO DELLA PENISOLA SORRENTINA DOC
A sformato is basically like a set custard or dense soufflé, and the version here came bearing the heady flavors of bone marrow. Taken alone, it was fairly subdued, so the key was to pair it with that marvelous chorizo jam, which added a confluence of sweet, spicy, and savory flavors that brought everything together. The housemade bread, meanwhile, did well in tempering the intensity of the dish and also provided body and substance.


Steam pours out of the pricey (as in the same range as a base model Nissan Altima) Rational combi-oven. Hmmm, what could possibly be cooking?


18: FORBIDDEN STEAM BUN | foie gras torchon, apricot hoisin, sugar crunch
MIKKELLER FUNKY E SAUTERNES BARREL EDITION
Next, diners were given the option of a complementary course of Hudson Valley foie gras. The torchon was classic at its core, conveying a restrained earthiness from the liver that made absolute sense with the sweet and savory flavors of the apricot-hoisin. Maldon added pricks of saltiness to the fray, while the fluffy bun contrasted the potency of the course. I miss foie.


19: JIDORI CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE | iberico de bellota bacon, port shallots, frisée, garlic croutons
MIKKELLER FUNKY E SAUTERNES BARREL EDITION
The chicken liver managed to be a table favorite of sorts, and for good reason. It was a pretty much flawless presentation of the mousse, which really showed off the gravity of the liver without being heavy-handed. The bacon was key in adding hits of salt to the dish, and the shallots sweetness, while the frisée was even more important, imparting a crucial touch of levity to the course. I also appreciated the croutons as well, which mixed things up texturally (I'm big on crunch).


20: ROMESCO ROMANESCO | red walnuts, sultanas, capers
2011 BIRICHINO MALVASIA BIANCA
Romanesco is a form of cauliflower known for its striking fractal patterns, though taste wise, it was fairly similar to the standard vegetable. The genius here, thus, was in the romesco and other accoutrements, which, in concert, provided a multifaceted array of spicy, nutty, and sweet flavors that took the romanesco to another level.


21: FROST KISSED ARTICHOKE CARPACCIO | kalamata olive, calabrian chile gummies, crispy parmesan, charred scallion-artichoke purée, meyer lemon
2011 BIRICHINO MALVASIA BIANCA
We had here an unabashedly unique preparation of artichoke, in which the bud is frozen then allowed to rot, in the process condensing and amplifying its flavor--dry aging in effect. The plant is then confit'd in olive oil and presented shaved thin. The end result is a concentrated burst of artichoke-y flavor, focused yet not clumsy, and especially tasty when paired with the weight of the Parmesan cheese and Calabrian chili present.


Quinn goes to work on the fantastic turbot course and its accompanying mortar 'n' pestle mojo.


22: WHOLE SPANISH TURBOT A LA PLANCHA | perfect blumenthals, mojo verde
2011 BIRICHINO MALVASIA BIANCA
And now we come to probably my favorite course of the meal, and most likely the strongest preparation of turbot I've had to date. The fish was cooked whole, and showed off a consistency that was quite unlike that of any other version I've experienced. The flesh was almost slightly rare, with a slick, delicate bite and restrained savor that worked beautifully with the zestiness of the accompanying mojo verde (a sauce oft seen with Canarian papas arrugadas). Finishing things off were some Heston Blumenthal-inspired potatoes that really were perfect: magnificently crunchy out the outside, yet with soft, pillow-y interiors and a mouth-watering kick of salt.


23: VERY WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO | hedgehog, baby kings, abalone, yellow foot, black trumpet, persimmon
2010 PUZELAT-BONNHOMME "IN COT WE TRUST" MALBEC
We saw Max Hirsch back there working on something on the flat top for a good half-an-hour or so, and the result was this made-from-scratch risotto. It must be pointed out that the dish is rarely made this way in restaurants, but is instead prepared ahead of time: par-cooked, refrigerated, and then finished when necessary. It was a commendable risotto, with the earthy, nutty weight of the various ingredients proudly displayed, while the texture on the rice was properly firm, the whole course having a very pleasing "crunchiness" to it.


24: LAMB PORTERHOUSE ROLL | hatch chile, cumin, fancy cut baby veg, lime butter
2010 PUZELAT-BONNHOMME "IN COT WE TRUST" MALBEC
Chef Quinn described this next course as a "porterhouse porchetta" of New Zealand lamb, basically a preparation in which tenderloin is wrapped in belly and cooked. The meat was delicious, tender to the bite, with a wonderfully savory crust and a luxurious ovine relish. However, the smoky Hatch chile was too potent here, overwhelming and masking the lamb somewhat, though I did appreciate the lightness and crunch of the turnip and carrot.


The Chef took a moment to show off some über-marbled wagyu beef, from Kobe Prefecture, along with its accompanying certificate. I think that this was the first time in my experience that the oft-misused phrase "Kobe beef" would actually be appropriate.


25: A5+ KOBE BEEF NEW YORK STRIP LOIN | kobe fat -parmesan yorkshire pudding
2010 ERIC TEXIER, ST. JULIEN EN ST. ALBAN SYRAH
The evening's pièce de résistance was undoubtedly the beef, and what beef! It was everything that you'd expect from a proper wagyu steak: lush and luxurious, super tender, and practically oozing fat upon mastication. The melt-in-your-mouth strip loin displayed a rather profound depth to it, and was made even better by the countervailing astringency of its charred crust. The meat easily stood alone without any accompaniments, though the paired Yorkshire pudding was a nice touch, a homey sort of side that I found quite comforting.


26: FINCA PASCUELETE QUESO DE TORTA SINCE 1232 | blackberries stewed with black pepper, 3 day el bulli pistachios, toast
2010 ERIC TEXIER, ST. JULIEN EN ST. ALBAN SYRAH
Our cheese course was masterful, one of the best I can remember in fact. The key was the use of Finca Pascualete, an unpasteurized Spanish sheep's milk cheese that was wonderfully creamy and smooth, with a fantastic funk to it and just a touch of herbaceousness. I adored the queso alone, but the combination of the berries and pistachio took it over the top, providing a blend of sweet, nutty flavors that worked flawlessly against the pungency of the cheese.


27: CUCUMBER LIME BLAST
A palate cleanser before dessert brought a shot of cucumber and lime, the cool, refreshing, vegetal jolt of the former leading to the latter's strong, sour finish.


28: SUMO TANGERINE | olive oil ice cream
The first dessert comprised octagonal cuts of Sumo tangerine with olive oil, olive oil ice cream, and isomalt glass. The sweet, juicy citrus paired well enough with the olive oil ice cream, but I swear there must've been salt sprinkled on top or something, because the course veered overly savory for me.


Here, Rhett Butler presents Fernet Branca, humorously referred to around these parts as "Magic Juice," which was meant to serve as a sort of digestif.


29: LIME CURD | blueberries, graham, mouth sex
SIETE LEGUAS ANEJO TEQUILA
More successful was a jar of lime curd, its puckering tartness a fitting foil to the sugary berries, all while the graham cracker crumbles offered up a sweet textural element. The whipped cream (mouth sex?) provided a nice overarching levity to things as well. Pie-like.


For our final course, Ashley Guzman unleashes the contents of her iSi canister into a liquid nitrogen bath.


30: CHOCOLATE PISTACHIO TERRINE | nitro-dome, chocolate mousse, feullitine
MAGIC JUICE
The dinner ended on a high note thanks to a terrine of pistachio and chocolate, a delectable amalgam of sugary and nutty flavors that was beautifully highlighted by the crunchy bits of feullitine tossed into the mix. The "nitro-dome," meanwhile, was a fun addition, an uncommonly light, almost ethereal sphere of creamy goodness that imparted a palpable levity to the dessert.


At the end of the night, one of my dining companions requested to take home some of the real deal Kobe beef, and Chef Quinn obliged, cutting off a couple pieces of the strip loin and vacuum sealing them. The cost? A not unreasonable $240.


The IO by Playground team (left to right): Emily McMichael, Max Hirsch, Ashley Guzman, Jason Quinn, Ryan Carson, Rhett Butler.

I applaud what Chef Quinn and company are doing. It's obvious that the kitchen respects and celebrates the best-in-class ingredients that they're working with, and the cooking here embraces and highlights these products, using just enough technique in an attempt to bring our their best facets. The result is food that's simultaneously refined, yet casual, with a flashes of irreverence, rashness, and whimsy that's just what I expected from this crew. In fact, I was reminded of a less-modernist, more homegrown version of é by José Andrés, and indeed, when confronted with this thought, the Chef admitted that the restaurant was an inspiration. The Playground team has created something special here, but also something necessarily exclusive, which will infuriate some. Nonetheless, the food, the wine, the service, everything came together in stellar fashion tonight--an experience to behold. Not to be hyperbolic, but IO is the likely the most ambitious, and best restaurant that Orange County has ever seen.

Ad Hoc Fried Chicken at Bouchon
235 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.271.9910
www.bouchonbistro.com
Mon 03/04/2013, 07:15p-10:25p



Fried chicken is just one of those things that--like risotto or uni--I just can't resist ordering when it's on a menu. And for the past several years, the version at Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc has served as my gold standard, a magnificent preparation of the bird that's pretty much the pinnacle of fried avian perfection in my eyes. I wasn't the only one smitten, and the chicken has turned into a thing of legend, even spawning its own do-it-yourself kit. Thus, I wasn't too surprised when it became a mainstay at Bouchon, popping up roughly once a month as the star of the show in always-packed fried chicken nights.


Now, just because it's poulet night at Bouchon, that doesn't mean the regular menu isn't available as well. We ended up doing the "ad hoc Fried Chicken, seasonal set" at $36 per person, with a couple of additional courses thrown in for good measure. Click for larger versions.


To wet our whistles, a bottle of bubbly was certainly called for, and we went with the Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé, Parigot & Richard MV [$60]. It was a fun, lively, easy-drinking sparkler to start, with a definite fruity sweetness to it and just a hint of countervailing minerality and yeast.


Pâté de Campagne [$14.50] | country style pâté with watercress, cornichons & radishes
A French country style pâté was right on the money, with the forcemeat showing off a rustic, gritty consistency and a boatload of pork-y goodness, enhanced with just enough liver-y edge. Lovely alone, and even better when contrasted by a dab of mustard and some pickles.


Choux de Bruxelles [$7.00] | Brussels sprouts with bacon lardons
Brussels, meanwhile, were spot on: unabashedly bright and bitter, with a wonderful char and a great hit of salt from the bacon.


Sommelier Alex Weil sent out a glass of Belgian Blonde Ale, Anderson Valley Brewing Co., "White Apron," CA [$6], a floral, spicy, effervescent pale ale that happens to be produced exclusively for Thomas Keller restaurants. Note that this replaces the previous "White Apron," which was Czech Pilsener brewed by Russian River.


Wedge Salad
The iceberg brought a welcomed levity to the meal, with the crisp shards of the lettuce forming a fitting base on which the lardons, tomato, and buttermilk dressing could really sing. Utterly straightforward, but undeniably effective.


Roasted Cauliflower
The cauliflower was prototypical in presentation, nicely done, but a touch on the soft side.


To go with our main course, we enjoyed a bottle of the Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine Marius Delarche, Les Combottes '11 [$76], a gift from a diner at another table. It was unmistakably white Burgundy in style, a tight, stony expression of Chardonnay that worked surprisingly well against the chicken.


Ad Hoc Fried Chicken
And now, we come to the evening's pièce de résistance, the much ballyhooed fried chicken. The bird is first brined in a lemon-herb mixture, then dredged in flour (with a mix of garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, cayenne, and Salt-n-Pepa), dipped in buttermilk, and then dredged in the coating once more before being fried. The end result of this effort was a delicious version of the American classic, with the rough, savory, delightfully crisp crust forming a fantastic complement to the tender, juicy, flavorful flesh within, all while the use of rosemary and thyme added a great herbaceous counterweight in the dish. I'd reach for the drumsticks first, but the white meat didn't give up much.


Biscuits & Gravy
Biscuits were firm and dense, a bit monolithic alone, but a great vessel to soak up the hearty, mouth-watering gravy.


Rhubarb & Strawberry Bread Pudding [$18.00] | for two
For dessert, we went with quite possibly the best bread pudding I'd ever eaten. Its consistency was just what I wanted, a blend of fluffy, dense, and luscious textures that were imbued with a fruity, sweet spice. It was delectable by itself, but the two mounds of tart, tangy ice cream on top just sealed the deal.


And finally, some macarons, in raspberry, green tea, PB&J, and vanilla flavors if I recall correctly.

Overall, we had a lovely evening. The food was on point, nothing too fancy, nothing that shows off, but straightforwardly satisfying dishes that hit the spot. As for the oft-lauded chicken, it didn't quite reach the majestic heights of the bird at Ad Hoc (I have my doubts that anything will), but was tasty and comforting nonetheless--a must-try for every fried chicken fiend out there.

Shunji Japanese Cuisine
12244 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064
310.826.4737
www.shunji-ns.com
Sat 03/16/2013, 08:30p-12:35a





In recent years, one of the most exciting developments on the Japanese cuisine scene here in LA has been Shunji, the eponymous eatery from former Asanebo toque Shunji Nakao. The restaurant opened in February of last year, and since then, has developed quite a following, with diners and critics alike praising the Chef's complex, refined, omakase-style tasting menus, with a particular nod toward his facility with vegetables. The place is far more than your everyday sushi bar.

About the Chef: The Yokohama native began his culinary training in Japan during his teenage years, but moved to the United States in 1984. Here, he and his brother Tetsuya met none other than Nobu Matsuhisa, and the trio worked together for a number of years before they launched the original Matsuhisa in 1987. With Nobu's training under their belt, the Nakao brothers opened their own spot, Asanebo ("late riser"), in 1991. The kappo ryori-style eatery was slow to start, but eventually became one of the most widely lauded Japanese restaurants in LA. Shunji-san, however, left the spot in July 2000 to head up the kitchen at The Hump in Santa Monica, and would eventually relinquish his share in the venture. Interestingly enough, while cooking at there, he worked with Kiyoshiro Yamamoto, who's now at the superb Yamakase. Shunji-san left The Hump after several years, and his next stop was Tengu, an offshoot of the Westwood original that opened in January 2007. The restaurant never really caught on though, and after an ownership change, the place finally closed in December 2008.

Following the shutter, Shunji-san returned to Japan and opened a place in Tokyo. After a couple of years, he moved back to Los Angeles, this time debuting Shunji's on Melrose in January 2011. The more mainstream restaurant got off to a rocky start, and by July that year, the Chef had already split with his partner Cecil Hsu. The spot was renamed 7015 Sushi & Sake Bar, and continued to operate until just recently. Orphaned again, Shunji-san quickly snatched up the building that was occupied by Mr. Cecil's, a BBQ joint that closed that December. The self-titled Shunji Japanese Cuisine soft opened on February 23rd, 2012, and grand opened a week later on the 1st of March. Since then, the restaurant has garnered its share of praise, including being named one of the top 10 new sushi restaurants in the US by Bon Appetit, as well as one of the top 10 best new restaurants in LA by Los Angeles magazine.


The building that Shunji resides in started life in the Great Depression. Named Chili Bowl, it was, unsurprisingly, a chili-centric eatery actually modeled after its namesake dish, just one location of a mini-chain of restaurants across the Southland that folded in 1947. Afterwards, the building was used for a variety of purposes, including a bar and a Mexican restaurant called Pancho's, before becoming an outpost of Mr. Cecil's California Ribs in 2000. The restaurant, however, suffered a fire at the end of 2011, forcing its shutter before being transformed into Shunji. These days, you'll find seven tables in the circular part of the structure, while an eight-seater bar is off to one side. An interesting note: the bathrooms are outside and require the use of a key, just like my local Del Taco.


This menu at Shunji is a thing of consternation; I'm not sure about it, even after eating here. As far as I can tell, there's a fixed Sushi Special set at $50, plus a market-priced sushi omakase around $90, then a non-sushi Japanese Style Tasting at $100, and finally an omakase (with both sushi/sashimi and composed dishes) starting at $120. We requested an extended omakase, at a quoted price of $160pp, but ended up paying $200 a head given all the supplemental courses we tacked on. À la carte ordering is also possible, though I'd stick to the items listed on the chalkboard. Click for a larger version.


To drink, you'll find a sake list befitting the food, as well as a small selection of wines. Click for larger versions.


1: Baby Sea Eel
Baby sea eel reminded me a bit of squid, with its tender, yet somewhat snappy texture and subtle brine, balanced by the vinegar-y tartness and slight savoriness (one of my dining companions guessed katsuobushi) of the accompanying liquid.


2: Firefly Squid with Beans
Sparkling squid (hotaru ika) were delightful, with a fantastic consistency and a sweet salinity that contrasted beautifully against the bright, crunchy beans.


Given the subtlety of Shunji-san's food, sake forms a natural complement, and we went with a bottle of the Ichigo [$80] junmai ginjyo to start. This is actually a sake that the Chef helped brew, and is exclusive to the restaurant. It was a smart pairing to the cooking, medium in body and nicely balanced, aromatic and refreshing, with a good interplay between the rice-y and floral notes present.


3: Oyster in Potato Soup
A singular Hama Hama oyster arrived sitting in a potage of potato and napa cabbage. It tasted of the ocean, with an intensity that was subsequently moderated by the gritty, mildly sweet porridge.


4: Shirako Tofu
Shirako (fish milt) was made into a rough tofu form, its fine-spun salinity balanced by the depth and piquancy of the ponzu jelly "iris."


5: Sashimi
A straightforward sashimi course brought us three varieties of fish. The first was needlefish, a firm specimen conveying a marked brininess that paired swimmingly with a dab of that freshly-grated wasabi. The shiokko (baby kanpachi), meanwhile, was delicate and firm, with a fishy intensity that was brought out by the application of soy. Last up was the bluefin tuna, soft, sticky, and full-flavored--tasty alone and even better with the various accompaniments.


6: Bonito and Ginger
Beautiful slices of dark-toned katsuo came to us paired with ginger, onion, and ponzu. It was a lovely combination, with the zestiness of the ginger moderating the fish in stellar fashion, all while the onion added a fantastic crunchiness to the dish.


Our second sake was the Born Gold [$70], an aged junmai daiginjyo from Fukui Prefecture's Katoukichibee Shouten. It was quite to our liking as well, with a soft, sweet viscosity and multifaceted complexity to it that made this one an easy drinker.


7: Arugula Salad with Lobster, Blue Cheese, Asian Pears & Beets
Shunji-san took a departure from Japan with this next course. The excursion was largely a success, with the lobster arriving fresh and true-to-form, albeit a touch chewy. The crustacean's sweetness was masterfully played against the bright, bitter arugula flowers, while the blue cheese added a fantastic integrating element to the dish.


8: Seasonal Quintet
Five little bites assembled on one plate comprised our next course. Moving right to left, we began with a globule of monkfish liver, probably the closest thing to foie gras we can get these days. It was a great presentation of ankimo, with its mild, earthy, ocean-y nuances melding superbly with the salty hit of caviar. A ball of potato and blue cheese came topped with persimmon, and was an interesting experiment, with the restraint of the potato gradually leading to the intensity of the cheese on the close. Third was an amalgam of shiitake and okara tofu, wrapped in prosciutto, its airy, delicate savoriness set off by the saltiness of the ham. A skewer of ginkgo nut and crab was about what you'd expect, a fitting prelude to the star of the show here, Shunji-san's oft-lauded dish of pitch black squid. It's basically shredded raw ika dyed with its own ink, truffle, uni, and raw quail egg. We were instructed to eat the squid by itself first, and thoroughly enjoyed the supple juliennes of the cephalopod, its quintessence merging gorgeously with the heady notes of truffle present. Break the yolk, and you get an additional layer of luxuriousness and lightness that seemed to integrate the dish further.


9: Grilled Bamboo with Seaweed Sauce & Uni
It's bamboo season, and Shunji-san was quick to show off the ingredient in this course. The bamboo was uncommonly crunchy, with a light, vegetal taste that was contrasted against the creamy, rich depth of the seaweed and uni combo.


Time for more sake, this time the limited edition Gensai [$220], a daiginjyo from Suehiro Sake Brewery in Fukushima Prefecture. This one was yet another winner, though perhaps a bit more serious than the preceding two sakes, with a fruity character set against the slightest whispers of dry alcoholic heat. I loved the sake's fancy wooden presentation box as well, which one of my dining companions took home.


10: Agedashi Tomato Tofu
We were then treated to the Chef's signature dish, his so-called "tomato tofu" that he invented during his Tokyo tenure. It's not tofu at all, but rather the innards of tomato, compressed and solidified with kuzuko and lightly fried. The texture really was something special, actually recalling tofu, while the flavor was sweet and tangy, dutifully offset by the dashi-based broth and the heat of the shishito pepper.


11: Grilled Yellowtail
Hamachi was marinated in yuzu and soy, then simply grilled, its firm flesh showing off a good amount of fat and flavor that was nicely set off by the bitter char. To balance out the gravity of the dish, the Chef included a yamamomo, or mountain peach, which provide a sweet, tart counterpoint in the course.


12: Steamed Black Cod with Porcini Mushroom, Napa Cabbage & Mountain Potato in Dashi Broth
The last course before the gauntlet of sushi was a hot and hearty soup featuring black cod. The fish itself was slick and supple, with a lushness that melded well with the heady depth of the broth. Grated yamaimo added an interesting textural element to the dish, but the crux here was the hakusai cabbage, which lent a profound lightness and crunch that managed to temper the otherwise intense flavors at play.


13: Red Bass / Akaisaki
Our first item of sushi brought us red grouper that had been treated with kelp through the kobujime process. The result was a drier, meatier texture on the fish, with a more concentrated, umami-laced taste that paired gorgeously here with the heat of wasabi and a hint of pepper.


The final sake of the evening was the Ken [$125], a daiginjyo that happens to be the little brother of the Gensai above. I'm not surprised that it came from the same family tree, as this one also displayed a delicious melon-y character, with a touch more rice (probably due to the higher seimaibuai) and a refreshing crispness on the close.


14: Grouper / Hata
Grouper was another rare treat: clean, slick, and eminently balanced, with a great finish.


15: Japanese Mackerel / Aji
Mackerel was firm and crunchy, with a surprisingly restrained fishiness that was deftly offset by a brushing of soy.


16: White Shrimp / Shiro Ebi
Out came white shrimp, which I'd only had previously at Urasawa. The mass of tiny crustaceans was salty and soft, breaking apart upon mastication.


17: Salmon Roe / Ikura
I'm usually not terribly keen on salmon roe, but the version here was one of the best I've had. Marinated with dashi, the globules were cool and briny, with a lovely pop to 'em and a great counterweight in the form of the sushi's seaweed wrapper.


18: Flying Fish / Tobiuo
Flying fish is oft used for its roe, which is known as tobiko. Its meat is far less common, which is unfortunate, as it makes for a lovely sushi fish, with a refreshing character emphasized by the use of yuzu and wasabi.


19: Amberjack / Kanpachi
The kanpachi was a prototypical example of the varietal, mild tasting and firm, with its flavor brought out with a dab of soy.


20: Golden Eye Snapper / Kinmedai
The kinmedai was one of my favorites here given its light sear, which imparted a fantastic smoky character to the fish.


21: Tuna Belly / Toro
Toro was fatty and oily, though not ridiculously so, with a melty consistency and a rich, satisfying taste.


22: Shrimp / Ebi
Shrimp was sourced from Papua New Guinea of all places. When it comes to sushi, I'm usually more of a fan of raw shrimp, but this was about as good as it gets for a cooked preparation. Great texture on this one, with the essence of the botan ebi nicely preserved.


23: Barracuda / Kamasu
Barracuda was another highlight of the sushi portion of the meal, with a slight sweetness that paired wonderfully with the charring on the fish. Unfortunately, there was only enough for three portions, so each piece of nigiri had to be cut in half.


24: Sea Urchin / Uni
Some in my party were clamoring for uni, so Shunji-san obliged with these Santa Barbara specimens: creamy, cool, and tasting of the ocean, though slightly bitter, with a great counterpoint from the nori.


25: Whitefin Trevally / Kaiwari
The kaiwari was a first for me, but hopefully not a last. It was a standout for its texture, which was firm, crunchy, and slightly chewy, with an almost engawa-esque bite to it.


26: Salmon / Sake
Salmon was quite lovely, with a delightful savoriness to it amped up by the saltiness of the crisp strip of skin still attached. Nice citrus kick on this one, too.


27: Fried Shrimp Heads
The heads from the shrimp above were deep fried and brought out to the bar. They were fantastic, as good as any preparation I've had.


28: Baby Abalone / Nagareko
Abalone was also satisfying, as we really got to enjoy its texture. I much appreciated the band of seaweed here, which added a nice accent point to the course.


29: King Squid / Aori Ika
Squid was sticky and palate coating, with a restrained taste that formed a fitting base on which the salt and pepper could shine.


Ika Somen
At this point, one of my dining companions asked if Shunji-san could prepare a dish of ika somen, and this was the result. Sadly, I didn't actually manage to grab a bite.


30: Mikan Shot
Serving as an intermezzo was a sweet shot of mikan juice.


31: Chocolate Mousse, Grapefruit Sorbet, Lemon Ice Cream
Dessert comprised three different treats. The chocolate mousse was the heaviest of the troika, with a smoothness and creaminess to it that was belied by a strong taste of cocoa powder. My favorite was the grapefruit sorbet, which conveyed the bracing bitterness of the fruit in commanding fashion. The lemon ice cream, finally, was also successful, with a great balance between sweet and sour elements.


32: Hojicha
To close: a hot cup of tea. Comforting


Chef Shunji Nakao (right) and his team.

I'm proud to report that Shunji has joined the pantheon of Los Angeles Japanese restaurants occupied by the likes of Yamakase, n/naka, and Urasawa. The Chef's composed dishes display refinement and technique, but at the same time a willingness to experiment and venture outside the bounds of tradition. The sushi section of the meal, meanwhile, was also top notch, with a selection of fish that one rarely sees in the Southland. The overall effect is an intimate, memorable experience that is an absolute must-try for fans of Japanese cooking. It seems that, after years of false starts, Shunji-san has finally found himself.

Playa Restaurant
7360 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.933.5300
www.playarivera.com
Wed 03/06/2012, 07:30p-09:45p





When John Sedlar's Playa first debuted two years ago, it was hailed as a more casual, more of-the-moment version of the Chef's flagship Rivera. Situated inside the building that once housed Neal Fraser's Grace, it featured a more laid back interpretation of Sedlar's pan-Latin cooking, centered around beach-y themes and Baja California. I quite liked it, and the restaurant garnered its share of critical acclaim as well, but for some reason, I guess it simply never caught on--just not the right fit for the neighborhood I suppose. I think a lot of us were surprised when the place announced its closure on March 4th, especially with regard to how quickly the shutter was happening, just two days later. Given the prominence of Playa, a revisit on the last night of service was certainly called for.


The menu had been revamped in recent months, with Chef Sedlar adding a number of Chinese-Mexican fusion dishes, ostensibly a result of a trip to Chinesca, Mexicali's Chinatown (the largest of its kind in the country, started by Cantonese immigrants brought in to build Valle de Mexicali's irrigation system). Just as we did on opening night, we planned on ordering the entire menu, a feat made significantly easier due to the fact that 7 of the 19 savory courses had run out! Cocktails were a must naturally, and we made sure to run the gamut there as well. Click for larger versions.


CIELO VERDE GAZPACHO SALAD CONE [$9.00] | cucumber / tomato / jalafuego & padron chiles / avocado / garlic petals
Dinner commenced with a trio of "Baja Cones," the first of which featured some produce from the rooftop garden. The bite did recall the essence of gazpacho, though there was a distinct guacamole character to it as well. No matter, the cone worked it out, with the crisp brightness of the veggies proudly conveyed.


HAMACHI TARTARE CONE [$13.00] | yellowtail / black cobra chiles / pac choi salad / miso / sesame oil / black sesame seeds
Yellowtail was rather tasty, arriving to the table enrobed in deep, dark, Asian-y nuances courtesy of the miso, though the fish could've been a touch more apparent on the palate. I found the savory crunch of the cone especially key in this presentation.


CHINESCA CHICKEN SALAD CONE [$10.00] | pulled roast chicken / toasted almonds / ginger / pac choi / napa cabbage / rice vinegar-chile dressing
The last cone was my favorite of the threesome. In fact, it just might've been the best chicken salad I've ever had, with the hefty weight of the bird beautifully paired with its various accompaniments, and the vinegar-chile dressing adding a tart, overarching element that tied everything together.


Baja Rickey [$12.00] | 4 year aged white rum, benedictine, fresh lime, angostura, tamarind soda
Anejo Honey Sour [$8.00] | tequila, honey, lemon, flamed grapefruit
Chili Limon [$10.00] | aged rum, islay scotch, fresh lime, caramelized pineapple syrup, piment d'espellette
Our first round of cocktails started with the Baja Rickey, which I actually thought was overly sugary (I imagine from the tamarind), though the drink did have a sort of refreshing astringency on the close. The Anejo Honey Sour was more to my liking, with the tequila clearly the star of the show in the drink, deftly contrasted by the sweet and sour notes of the honey and lemon--nicely integrated. The Chili Limon was also a winner, with the smoky Islay nose transitioning gorgeously to the sweet, tart, boozy base of the drink, all while the finish gave us long, lingering notes of smoke.


POTSTICKERS PUERCO PIBIL [$9.00] | roasted pineapple salsa / pipián verde
Pot stickers were nice enough, imbued with the heady weight of the puerco, though I'm not sure if the meat was highlighted in the best way possible. That being said, I appreciated the lingering spice to the dish, and the brightness of the pineapple did serve as a nice counterpoint in the course.


PIQUILLOS RELLENOS [$9.00] | black beans / caramelized onion / piloncillo / chipotles
Stuffed peppers turned out to be a table favorite, the cheesy, charred, smoky combo of Fontina and Gruyère working in unison with the sweet flavors of the piquillo. We actually ended up ordering another round of these toward the end of dinner.


TACOS JAVIER PLASCENCIA [$11.00] | swordfish achiote / ensalada alta tijuana / guac
Here, Sedlar pays homage to Javier Plascencia's famed swordfish pibil tacos. The fish itself arrived smoky and savory from the achiote, while the pairing of guacamole and red onion added a well-placed burst of color and levity to the dish.


KUNG-PAO CAMARONES [$16.00] | rooster beak chiles / cacahuate salsa / bean sprouts
Sedlar's riff on the ubiquitous kung-pao was another highlight of the meal. This shrimp were nicely done, not overcooked and still snappy, and went superbly with the classically Chinese nuances in the dish. I loved the creeping undercurrent of spice here, and the bean sprouts offered up a delightful crunch and lightness to the mix.


5 Spice Sangrita [$12.00] | blanco tequila back, lime, orange, pomegranate, chinese 5 spice
Gold Rush [$8.00] | bourbon, honey, lemon
Beer and a Ball [$10.00] | campari, aperol, grapefruit, sage, lime, beer
Round #2 of drinks brought us a two-parter in the form of the 5 Spice Sangrita, which paired Espolon blanco against a savory, spicy, jammy concoction that actually worked well when consumed with the liquor; one of my dining companions compared the effect to an "alcoholic Fruit Roll-Up." The Gold Rush, meanwhile, was quite familiar, with the interplay between honey and lemon forming a classic companion to the whiskey. Finally, we had the Beer and a Ball, a refreshing cocktail that proudly showed off the bittersweet character of Aperol and Campari while conveying the crisp effervescence of Miller High Life (yes, you read that right).


TAMAL CHIPOTLE [$15.00] | wild-mushroom corn masa dumpling / sliced filet mignon / chipotle béarnaise / watercress
Interestingly enough, I thoroughly enjoyed this dish the first time I had it, but it ended up falling short this evening. The steak was fine, tender and beefy as you'd expect, and the earthy masa made sense too. However, the chipotle béarnaise dominated the dish, effectively overwhelming most of the other flavors at play.


AREPAS BARRIO [$13.00] | corn cakes / pork belly / jalafuego chiles / charred green onions / queso panela
Arepas weren't exactly models of finesse, but were tasty nonetheless, with the pork belly pairing well with the smoky, cheesy components in the dish, all while the corn cakes grounded the course.


PASTRAMI TACOS [$10.00] | blue corn shells / pastrami / sauerkraut / ballpark mustard
Pastrami tacos were as good as they sound, with the supple, mouth-watering slices of meat pairing flawlessly with the tangy shreds of sauerkraut and pepper present.


CHORROS AL VAPOR [$13.00] | vapor-cooked mussels / charred tomatillo-serrano salsa / longaniza sausage / avocado / grilled rustic toast
Playa's mussels are known throughout the land, and for good reason, as they were utterly fantastic. The bivalves were spot on: firm, yet supple and snappy, with a subtle brine that paired beautifully with the smoky, savory broth. The bits of longaniza tossed in were an added bonus, and served as the icing on the cake in this perfect mussels dish. Not only did we ask for more bread to sop up the remaining liquid with, we drank it straight from the bowl.


Jane's Addiction [$12.00] | vodka, manzanilla sherry, fresh lemon, angostura, lemon peel, seltzer
Opium Cocktail [$8.00] | tequila, plum wine, champagne, lemon
The Cold Open [$12.00] | tea infused scotch, smith & cross rum, jamaican rum, tiki bitters, sugar
Our last set of cocktails got off to a good start with the Jane's Addiction, an eminently balanced drink that perfectly blended the contrasting elements present; I especially enjoyed the finish, redolent of sherry. The Opium Cocktail was less successful, putting forth a sour, acidic, astringent character that was rather harsh on the palate. Finally, we had The Cold Open, a delicious cocktail that married the aromatics of tea with a combo of whiskey and rum, all while the sugar and bitters added a sweet-spicy veil to the drink--nice!


XINJIANG ALMOND GELATIN FRUIT SALAD [$8.00] | cactus pear / asian pear / buddha's hand lemon syrup / almond galleta
Dessert kicked off with a dish that reminded me of the almond jelly you get at Chinese restaurants, but a bit more interesting and multifaceted, with the mild taste of the gelatin balancing out the sugary smack of the prickly and nashi pears.


NIEVES CHINE [$8.00] | chinese ice creme / latin french sorbet
Sorbets arrived with a distinct Asian-y influence to them. I believe I tasted ginger and even suan mei.


MEXICO CITY SUNDAE [$10.00] | vanilla ice cream / habanero caramel / passion fruit / blue cornmeal cookie
We ended with a simple sundae, which I actually quite enjoyed, the lush, creamy, and unabashedly sweet contents of that Mason jar given a jolt by a touch of habanero caramel.

Diners, including myself, seemed to be pretty happy with Playa, but from what I gather, the investors in the place weren't quite as thrilled, and it probably just wasn't a hit financially. A shame really. As for what's next, the space will remain in the Bill Chait family of restaurants, and John Sedlar will still be involved in the next incarnation, though Chef de Cuisine Kevin Luzande is out, probably to start his own solo project (fingers crossed that it involves his native Filipino food). They're taking a few weeks to retool, but given the short timeframe, I don't expect drastic changes to the interior, but I do hear that the Cielo Verde rooftop garden will be more integral to whatever's taking over the spot.

Rustic Canyon Restaurant
1119 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.393.7050
www.rusticcanyonwinebar.com
Tue 03/12/2013, 07:45p-10:20p



Since debuting at the end of 2006, Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan's Rustic Canyon has firmly established itself as one of the top restaurants in Santa Monica, mostly under the tutelage of Chef Evan Funke. Funke, however, left early last year to pursue his own solo project: Bucato in the old Beacon space in Culver City. Rustic was without a head chef for a few months before Jeremy Strubel (Momed, Public, Libertine) took the reins in June 2012. He ended up decamping this January though, and is now working at Italian newbie Sirena. Strubel's replacement came as a bit of a surprise: none other than Food & Wine Best New Chef and former Ubuntu frontman Jeremy Fox.

For those of you who haven't been able to keep up with Fox's whereabouts post-Ubuntu, here's a brief recap:

His tumultuous departure from the veggie-centric restaurant came in February 2010, amidst a divorce from the place's lauded Pastry Chef, Deanie Hickox (Plum, Coi, Manresa). In April that year, he cooked a one-off dinner at James Syhabout's Commis (the two worked together at Manresa), then gave Angelenos a taste of his talents at a sold-out dinner at Animal in May. From there, Fox quickly secured a position at Daniel Patterson's soon-to-open Plum in Oakland, with plans to lend his skills to Bracina and whatever other projects Patterson had in mind. They got as far as serving practice dinners at Il Cane Rosso in the Ferry Building, but Fox would leave by August, replaced by Charlie Parker. After participating in a "fire dinner" with Joshua Skenes (highlighting Saison's wood-burning hearth), he landed a gig as the Creative Director for Tyler Florence's restaurant group in October, and became a partner in Florence's Rotisserie & Wine in Napa, with responsibility for his other properties El Paseo and Wayfare Tavern as well.

Though his post was certainly promising, Fox left in February 2011, around the same time announcing a cookbook project (Seed to Stalk: A Modern Culinary Handbook by Phaidon), its concomitant Yountville garden (started in partnership with wine maker Ryan Hill and French Laundry gardener Peter Jacobsen), and a series of pop-up dinners. The first of those pop-ups took place on March 28th, set inside Dominique Crenn's eponymous Atelier Crenn. That was followed up by a multi-day stint at Saison in June (where he was joined by Ari Taymor's mentor Kim Alter and Top Chef's Eli Kirshtein), as well as a night at Orson in August. It was during this period that Fox announced that he was searching for a location to house a veggie-focused eatery called Smith. That never came to fruition, however, and the Chef ended up moving to Los Angeles later that year, settling in Los Feliz.

In November 2011, Fox was reunited with Manresa compatriot Charlie Parker when he began consulting at Freddy Smalls, though he ceased his involvement after the place's opening in December, and also started looking for a spot on the East Side to house the aforementioned Smith concept. The next May, he commenced a brief consulting gig at Paper or Plastik, and then announced the intention to sell a line of lavender-scented almonds at Cube Cafe & Marketplace under the Fox Fine Foods label. In July, word came about Barnyard, a restaurant in Venice where Fox would be partner and Executive Chef. It was an exciting announcement, and in October he even teased his menu during a night at the latest iteration of Test Kitchen at Bestia.

However, the following month, the Chef gave news of his departure from the project, much to our dismay; it was ostensibly a result of a falling-out with management, and he was soon replaced by Jesse Barber of The Tasting Kitchen. With Barnyard out of the picture, Fox partnered with Helen Springut and Helena Brown's culinary incubator this is not a pop-up to launch Old Soul, a weekly dinner series set inside Square One Dining in Hollywood. The trio actually managed to stay together long enough to host a number of events last December, but plans to return in January 2013 were foiled when Fox pulled out of the uneasy alliance and moved to Rustic Canyon in February. It's been a busy three years.


Chef Fox has definitely put his mark on the menu here at Rustic Canyon, with perhaps the legendary burger and the cheese plate being the sole holdouts. Things are arguably a touch less rustic as a result, but the place's seasonal Cal-Med vibe remains intact. Click for a larger version.


To start, what else but the restaurant's signature plate of olives?


potato croquettes [$7.00] | romesco & aioli
Croquettes were just as you'd expect, with crisp exteriors hiding soft, pillow-y insides imbued with a straightforward savoriness. They key here was that romesco, an elegant version of the sauce that offered a piquant counterpoint to the fritters.


gougeres: baked cheese puffs [$7.00] | with mornay sauce & bacon
Gougères arrived looking like miniature baked potatoes, which I'm not sure was intentional or not. You can't wander too astray with these: delightful puffs of melty, cheese-y goodness interspersed with salty bits of bacon.


fat uncle farms almonds [$6.00] | lavender sugar & sea salt
We were then provided a bowl of Fox's signature lavender-laced almonds, which I'd first encountered at Ubuntu (Marconas were used back then). They were just as good as I remember, a lovely back-and-forth between both salty and floral nuances, all over the crunchy backdrop of the nut.


To drink, one of my dining companions was in the mood for syrah, so we asked our server to pick out something. He ended up with the 2009 Whitcraft Syrah Stolpman Vineyard [$80], a limited production (~200 cases), biodynamic bottling from the Santa Ynez Valley. It really was quite amazing, probably the best California Syrah I've had in fact: unquestionably smooth and easy-drinking, yet not banal, with loads of jammy dark fruit and an undercurrent of smoky-spice to go along with a pleasant tartness.


berkshire pork belly [$16.00] | crispy fingerlings, sauce gribiche
Moving on to some more substantial courses now, we had here Fox's version of the requisite pork belly dish. The pork itself showed off a great crispness, with a lovely blend of lean and fat, and I really appreciated the lightness imparted by the greenery, as well as that tangy dressing of gribiche. However, the potatoes were almost too savory here, stealing some of the belly's thunder in effect.


clam & mussel pozole [$15.00] | rancho gordo hominy, green garlic
My favorite course of the night came in the form of pozole, which just might've been the best version of the stew I've ever had. The combo of mussels and clam provided a superb undercurrent of brine to the course, and were great texturally, especially in contrast to the firm kernels of corn. Add to that the bright, verdant flavors of the broth and the crunchy bits on top, and you get a perfectly balanced dish that I wanted to just keep eating.


Next, we tried a new dish that Chef Fox was toying with, composed of country toast topped with Capriole's Sofia goat cheese and onion jam, doused in a chicken consommé. I got a lot of the sweet onion initially here, which then merged, seemingly out of nowhere, with a slight funkiness from the cheese toward the end, all over the base of heady chicken broth and moderating toast. There were some really cool flavor transitions going on, though the bread did get a bit soggy.


stracciatella di burrata [$14.00] | sprouting broccoli, bottarga, lemon
One dish that wowed me was Fox's version of sprouting broccoli, my favorite presentation of the ingredient to date. The crisp, bright, bitter goodness of the veggie was proudly conveyed, masterfully complemented by the weighty bottarga and luxurious dollop of burrata, while the icing on the cake was the dish's subtle, creeping spice.


amberjack crudo [$16.00] | local kieffer lime, mandarins, turkish pepper
Amberjack arrived fresh 'n' clean, supple to the bite and imbued with an overarching sourness courtesy of the kaffir. The sweet, succulent segments of mandarin worked out beautifully here, though I'm not sure if I liked the Turkish pepper or not. It added an interesting spicy counterpoint that seemed to highlight certain qualities of the fish.


Blood and Sand [$14.00] | Stronachie Single Malt Scotch, blood orange juice, Leopold's Cherry liqueur, Byrrh Quinquina
Previously, Rustic Canyon was a beer & wine only type of place, but since my last visit, they've acquired a full liquor license, hence the cocktails. I started with the Blood and Sand, a great choice, showing off a flawless integration between the scotch and the cherry, all tarted up by the sweet, spicy zing of the Byrrh. Wonderfully balanced, and super easy drinking.


wild steelhead [$27.00] | anson mills farro verde
Moving on to mains now, we began with some last-of-the-season steelhead. The trout was cooked perfectly, slightly rare, yet crispy on the outside, with a delightful salinity to it. I wouldn't have minded eating it alone, but the farro and associated greenery definitely made sense as a counterweight in the dish.


weiser's pee-wee potatoes [$9.00] | cooked in roasted chicken drippings
Pee-wee potatoes were about what you'd expect, heart and filling, though I would've liked some more chicken character to have permeated the taters.


We then sampled a homemade morcilla that Chef Fox was working on, served with rhubarb and turnip. It was one of the best blood sausages I've eaten, though not necessarily what I was expecting with morcilla, coming out more along the lines of a boudin noir, displaying a soft, supple consistency and a restrained, though still properly earthy savor. The sweetness of the rhubarb worked out here, as did the bitterness of the turnip, though texturally there could've been something more, something tempering with a bit of crunch.


The Loeber [$14.00] | Johnny Drum Green Label Bourbon, fresh lemon, Wild Flower honey syrup, fresh blackberry puree
Named after co-owner Josh Loeb, The Loeber was another great addition to the cocktail program. The Bourbon formed a superb base here, with its boozy weight balanced by the sweet honey and sour lemon, all while the blackberry contributed a delightful fruity edge to the drink.


caramelized brussels sprouts [$9.00] | apple agrodolce
Brussels sprouts were right on the money, flawless in texture, with a great mix of sweet and sour flavors to go against the bitterness of the vegetable. In fact, one of my dining companions stated that this was her favorite preparation of Brussels, ever.


roasted chicken [$26.00] | young carrots, french curry, 'delfino' cilantro
We were told that this was the Chef's favorite main course, and with good reason. The bird came out tender and moist, almost teeming with juice in fact, with a spot on chicken-y flavor that paired masterfully with the curry (which I was afraid would be overwhelming). The cilantro, meanwhile, added a great herby whisper to the dish that served as a fantastic accent piece.


sesame honey cake [$10.00] | crème fraiche whipped cream, bill's bees honeycomb
Desserts here at Rustic Canyon are the charge of Pastry Chef Laurel Almerinda, and we went with a trio of her creations to end the meal with. The cake above showed off a delectable sesame flavor, offset by the sweetness of honey, but was on the dry side. Fortunately, the whipped cream helped with that, and added a certain lightness to the dish to boot.


banana chocolate shell bowl [$6.00] | scoop of banana ice cream, chocolate shell, torched banana
Banana ice cream conveyed the pure, unmitigated essence of the fruit, its sweetness melding well with its chocolate-y sheath, while the caramelized slices added even more sugary goodness. A must for the banana fiends out there.


maple pot de creme [$10.00] | vanilla whipped cream, maple syrup
To end, a lush, luxurious pot de crème of maple custard gave us a satisfying sweetness to pair against the whipped cream. Can't go wrong with this.

Under the guidance of Jeremy Fox, Rustic Canyon appears to be as strong as ever. The food's definitely imbued with his style now, and perhaps veers less toward rustic, but possesses a more venturesome quality to it. It's not necessarily better or worse than what his predecessors put out, but different, and quite to my liking. The Chef isn't known for staying in one place too long (as witnessed in the considerable movement described in the introductory paragraphs above), so hopefully his tenure here lasts a while. I'd go check the restaurant out quickly though, just in case Kosher Pig (with Cube buyer Rachael Sheridan) comes to fruition.

The Royce Steakhouse
1401 S Oak Knoll Ave, Pasadena, CA 91106
626.585.6410
www.roycela.com
Thu 03/28/2013, 07:30p-11:15p



One of the more unfortunate shutters in recent times has been that of The Royce, the flagship restaurant at Pasadena's Langham hotel. Ever since opening at the end of 2010, the place had been one of my favorite spots in the Southland thanks to Chef David Feau's elegant, sophisticated cooking. However, I suppose the cuisine never really resonated with the area's demographic, and the restaurant ended up closing on January 26th, much to my disappointment. In its place comes a new incarnation of The Royce, this time a steakhouse that's ostensibly much better suited to the hotel's target clientele. This new concept debuted on March 15th, and is helmed by none other than Chef Anthony Zappola of Craft fame.

About the Chef: Raised in Cleveland, Ohio, Chef Zappola got his start in the industry at age 15, working at an Italian restaurant in his hometown where he worked his way up from a dishwasher position. From there, he cooked at a number of local eateries before deciding to go to culinary school. Zappola attended classes at the Scuola di Arte Culinaria Cordon Bleu in Florence, Italy for nine months, then began a year-long program at Le Cordon Bleu London in 2000. After graduating in 2001, he moved back to the States and found employment in Chicago, and then New York. In July 2004, he started at Tom Colicchio's Craft, making his way up to the post of Sous Chef in charge of private dining.

Zappola then moved to Texas in the middle of 2006, where he opened Craft Dallas as Executive Sous Chef. A couple years later, he was promoted to Chef de Cuisine after the departure of Kevin Maxey, but would leave in May 2009 to take the reins at Craft Los Angeles, replacing Matt Accarrino (now at SPQR in SF). Zappola's Pastry Chef, Shannon Swindell, would also leave Dallas for LA, taking over for Catherine Schimenti. His tenure at Craft lasted until the end of 2010, and the Chef spent a couple years under the radar (which included an unpublicized stint at Animal) until re-emerging earlier this year at The Royce, where he's joined by David Feau's old Sous Chef Perry Pollaci as well as new General Manager Matt Nathanson.


The Royce's new steakhouse menu is fairly par for the course given the genre, and focuses on high-end cuts cooked on an Aztec wood-fired grill that burns white oak and other sundry timber. À la carte is the way to go here, though it is possible to arrange a special tasting at the Chef's Table (normally used for communal seating) as we did. Click for larger versions.


The bread selection consisted of gougère, olive, and whole wheat sourdough varieties, paired with a nice butter.


OYSTERS [$3.00/each] | On the half shell
Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine Ste. Claire, Chablis, 2011
Oysters come in three varieties here, and we had to try all of 'em, natch. In raw form, we had Kusshis, one of my favorites, and they were prototypical of the style: clean, crisp, and oh-so briny.


OYSTERS [$3.00/each] | from the wood-grill
Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine Ste. Claire, Chablis, 2011
Crystal Bay oysters arrived lightly grilled, with the smoky, charred flavors from the cooking process forming a fitting balance to the oysters' inherent salinity.


OYSTERS [$3.00/each] | Gratin
Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine Ste. Claire, Chablis, 2011
Finally, we had Misty Bay oysters, a hot, heartier presentation that married the natural flavors of the bivalves with a hit of rich, savory, vegetal nuances from the dish's au gratin topping.


STEAK TARTARE [$16.00] | tabasco vinaigrette
Chateau Clarettes, Côtes de Provence Rose, 2010
The quintessential steak tartar was done proud here. The meat itself was spot on in terms of texture, and melded beautifully with the pickle-y bits incorporated within. Even better, though, was the use of Tabasco, which added a jolt of heat that lingered long into the finish. The included potato chips were a nice touch, too. A must-try as far as the appetizers go.


WAGYU BEEF CARPACCIO [$18.00] | spicy radishes
Chateau Clarettes, Côtes de Provence Rose, 2010
A carpaccio was made from beef cured in-house for three days, and was surely one of the best preparations of the dish I've had, putting forth a definite gravity and meatiness that I found quite satisfying. The kick of the olive oil made sense here too, tying together some of the flavors, while the greenery on the plate provided some bright, bitter counterpoints to the heft of the beef. Loved the accompanying bread here as well, which came toasted on the wood grill.


MARYLAND CRAB CAKE [$18.00] | sumac, roasted lemon yogurt
Chateau Clarettes, Côtes de Provence Rose, 2010
I've still yet to find a crab cake that surpasses the one at Gulfstream, a damn shame given that Gulfstream is such a corporate-y type of chain restaurant. The version here tonight was good, but again, still didn't reach the lofty level I was hoping for. The sweet, saline essence of crab was there, though unfortunately its impact was lessened by the fried outer batter. That being said, the dish still worked, with the yogurt and sumac providing a tart, tangy balance to the fritter.


A pair of poussins were brought out tableside before being taken back to the kitchen to be carved and plated.


COLORADO RACK OF LAMB [$58.00] | vadouvan jus
Mollydooker, "The Boxer", Shiraz, South Australia, 2011
A rack of lamb arrived deftly prepared: tender and definitely "lamb-y," with a good hint of char goodness and a mélange of sweet and spicy notes from the vadouvan.


HAWAIIAN PRAWNS [$28.00] | candied peanuts, chilies
Argyle, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2011
Taste-wise, the prawns were on point, showing off an appealing salinity to them. However, texturally, I wanted them snappier, springier, with more of a bite. The greens did work here gorgeously though, imparting a fantastic bitterness and whisper of char to the dish.


WHOLE ROASTED ORGANIC POUSSIN [$26.00] | kumquats, rosemary jus
Argyle, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2011
At this point, the aforementioned poussin arrived at our table. Though it was basically a small chicken, it was quite unlike your typical preparation of the bird. The poussin conveyed a pretty remarkable depth of flavor to it, along with flesh that was firm, taut, and dense to the bite.


SEA ISLAND RED PEAS [$9.00] | fresh bacon
Along with these more substantial courses came a few of our sides, my favorite of which were the peas. I loved their firm, substantial texture and rich, robust flavors, tempered by the bright, herb-y, spicy nuances in the dish, all while the pork belly added a delectable hit of salt into the mix. If you're only going to get one side, make it this.


SOFT POLENTA [$9.00] | mimolette cheese
Polenta, meanwhile, was pretty much flawless: creamy, cheesy, subtly gritty, and undeniably satisfying.


GRILLED RADICCHIO [$9.00]
Radicchio displayed a delectable balance of bitter and smoky flavors, though I would've liked the leaves a touch crisper.


Chef Zappola brought out a slab of his well-marbled Japanese stripsteak prior to grilling, then came back to slice the meat tableside.


Japan | KOBE-STYLE WAGYU NEW YORK STRIP [$400.00] | 16oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
What we had here was a strip loin of kuroge beef from Gunma Prefecture, priced at a not-unreasonable $25 per ounce. It was exactly what you'd expect from real-deal wagyu: lush and melt-y, with an apparent, but well-integrated fattiness to it that was beautifully moderated by the slight char astringency in the steak. It's a cut above everything else that's out there, and definitely worth your time and money to try a few ounces if you've never had genuine Japanese beef before.


With the Japanese beef dispensed with, we were provided a quartet of sauces, which are complementary here: Bordelaise, chimichurri, horseradish cream, and béarnaise. They weren't truly necessary, but did provide an additional dimension to the steaks.


Moyer Farm, Grain-Fed USDA Prime, Pennsylvania | NEW YORK STRIP [$54.00] | 18oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
First up was a quintessential cut of standard New York strip, done rare (note that we did not request specific temperatures, instead relying of the Chef to make the proper decision in each case). Good flavor on this one, with a noticeable amount of fat as well.


Moyer Farm, Grain-Fed USDA Prime, Pennsylvania | FILET MIGNON [$38.00] | 8oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
Compared to the strip, the filet was of course a step down in terms of flavor, though it was utterly tender, with a char complement from the crust. Could've been a touch rarer, though.


MACARONI AND CHEESE [$9.00] | tasso ham
Zappola's mac 'n' cheese was something special, incorporating not only a trio of cheeses but a maple Béchamel sauce, which resulted in a fantastic sugary undercurrent in the dish. I appreciated the additional complexity of the tasso here as well.


TRUFFLED SPINACH [$9.00]
Spinach was quite to my liking. I really appreciated how the texture of the greens was so deftly displayed here, and how the bitterness of the veggie was so aptly complemented by the earthy dressing, redolent of truffle. A must-try for the spinach fiends out there.


Here, Zappola shows off some tasty looking cuts of Brandt beef.


Brandt Beef, 100% All-Natural, Brawley, California | FILET MIGNON [$56.00] | 8oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
Moving on, we had here filet mignon from local producer Brandt Beef, which was a remarkable step up in terms of flavor. It conveyed an almost "earthy" flair to it, which is hard to find with filets. For me, this was definitely worth the uptick in price vis-à-vis the Moyer.


Brandt Beef, 100% All-Natural, Brawley, California | RIBEYE [$49.00] | 14oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
The Brandt rib eye would probably be my choice among all the steaks here if I had to consume a bunch of it. It displayed a bold, focused beefiness to it that was joined by a well-placed fatty character, resulting in an supremely balanced steak overall.


SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS [$9.00]
Mushrooms, meanwhile, were just what I was expecting. Can't go wrong with this.


POTATOES AU GRATIN [$9.00]
The potatoes gratiné was a fairly classic interpretation of the dish, with the firm, hearty cuts of potato augmented by a rich, enveloping cheesiness, all while a touch of pepper offered up a nice counterpoint.


Last up was Australian wagyu from producer Greg Norman.


Greg Norman Signature Australian Wagyu | RIBEYE [$65.00] | 12oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
This was another commendable presentation of rib eye. Compared to the Brandt, this was a more luxurious cut, with a more in-your-face richness and more apparent fattiness. I'd have a tough time choosing between the two.


Greg Norman Signature Australian Wagyu | NEW YORK STRIP [$68.00] | 14oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
Lastly, we ended with the Aussie striploin. Again, there was strong flavor, appropriate char on this preparation, nothing out of place, but I'm not sure if it's worth it over the non-wagyu beef, which was already very good.


Desserts are now the task of Pastry Chef April Baton, who actually started out working here under David Féau. Click for a larger version.


MAPLE BRIOCHE BREAD PUDDING [$11.0] | candy cap mushroom ice cream
Ramos Pinto 20 yr tawny port
We began with a lovely bread pudding, the bread really soaking up all of the goodness that the maple had to offer, while the candy cap added an additional hit of sugariness to the fray.


FRIED CINNAMON BEIGNET [$11.00] | chocolate bailey's sauce
Ramos Pinto 20 yr tawny port
Beignets were straightforward in presentation, offering a churro-esque sweet spice to them that made sense against the chocolate-y Bailey's dip.


WEST COAST DUTCH BABY [$11.00] | market fresh berries and tahitian vanilla ice cream
Ramos Pinto 20 yr tawny port
Next was a version of the Dutch baby, a light, almost fluffy and soufflé-like pancake. Its pairing with tart, tangy berries and ice cream wasn't groundbreaking, but was effective.


GINGER BABA RUM [$11.00] | chestnut cream, rum ice cream
Ramos Pinto 20 yr tawny port
Here was the Chef's take on the classic baba au rhum. It maintained the traditional appeal of the dessert, conveying an interplay of sweet and boozy flavors, all while the use of chestnut cream and salted caramel added further facets to the dish. The rum ice cream, meanwhile, was the perfect topping to the cake, and I appreciated the texture from the cinnamon tuile as well.


CHOCOLATE LAYERED MOUSSE CAKE [$11.00] | vanilla malt milk shake
Ramos Pinto 20 yr tawny port
We concluded with my favorite dessert of the evening. It was pretty much your perfect chocolate cake, an unabashedly sugary, uncompromisingly satisfying smack of cacao-laced goodness, wonderfully paired with that delightful vanilla shake.

Over the past several years, CUT in Beverly Hills has consistently been my favorite steakhouse in the Southland. However, my last experience there was somewhat disappointing, and thus this new incarnation of The Royce has a good shot at taking over that top spot. The food, from the steaks to the sides to the apps, was consistently strong overall, and Zappola really is a great fit for the job. The use of a wood-fired grill, meanwhile, adds a wonderful char character and complexity to the cooking that helps set the place apart. To take things over the top, what I'd love to see is the restaurant increase the scope of its own dry aging program. Either way, what we have here is undoubtedly another great addition to the Los Angeles steakhouse scene.

The Hart & The Hunter Restaurant
7950 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90046
323.424.3055
www.thehartandthehunter.com
Tue 02/26/2013, 07:00p-11:15p





One of the most beloved pop-ups in recent times has been Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga's Wolf in Sheep's Clothing (unrelated to the recently-defunct restaurant bearing the same name), which bowed at Capri Venice in December 2011 and ran until last summer. As a follow-up to that venture, the duo teamed up with Paligroup's Avi Brosh (a regular at the old spot) to launch The Hart and the Hunter inside a space at Brosh's Palihotel that was once home to a Brendan Collins-run coffee bar. Named after one of Aesop's Fables depicting a narcissistic, skinny-legged deer, the restaurant debuted last October with much of the original staff in place (including GM Jonathan Strader), and features more of the chefs' Cal-Southern cooking.

About the Chefs: Georgia native Brian Dunsmoor is an alumnus of the well-regarded Johnson & Wales culinary school in Charleston, where he graduated from in 2004. During his tenure there, he worked at Starfish Grille in the City, and also interned at Kiawah Island Golf Resort's Atlantic Room. Following, Dunsmoor went to Blind Pig Tavern in Athens, and during this period, also attended Gainesville College. In 2005, he began cooking at Hugh Acheson's much-lauded 5 & 10, where he really began developing his skills as a chef, but left two years later to move to LA. Once on the West Coast, Dunsmoor secured a post at Michael Cimarusti's top-notch seafooder Providence at the tail end of 2007, then became sous at both The Hungry Cat and Joe's, before leaving to head up the kitchens at the revamped Axe on Abbot Kinney.

Kristopher Tominaga, meanwhile, grew up right here in Southern California, and fell in love with cooking while attending CSU Chico. After graduating with a business degree, he enrolled in the highly selective Culinary Arts certificate program at Boston University. Once school was done, he stayed in Boston for a while and cooked at Frank McClelland's famed L'Espalier, under Chef de Cuisine James Hackney. However, LA beckoned, and Tominaga soon returned, finding employment as a sous chef at Joe's, where he would meet Dunsmoor in 2008. He would eventually become CdC there before leaving to start WiSC.


The Hart and the Hunter resides in a building that was once home to a youth hostel called Orbit Hotel, and before that, the Century Home For The Retired & Elderly. Given such limitations, I can't complain too much about the renovations. It's a tiny, homey sort of space, with the requisite communal table and a lilliputian, glass-encased kitchen. Also of note are the mismatched chairs, equestrian-themed knick knacks, as well as the infamous blue-tiled walls, which no doubt contribute to the sometimes-deafening din of the place.


The menu here at Hart and the Hunter reads well, an appealing-sounding array of dishes categorized into a logical progression of various sections. To drink, there's a not-terribly-expensive, California-centric wine list and a pretty good selection of craft beers. BYOB is available with a $15/5 corkage fee for wine/beer, making it one of the few places that rightly distinguishes between the two types of booze. Click for larger versions.


Chicken Cracklins and Hot Pepper Vinegar [$5.00]
It seems like everyone starts things off with a plate of the cracklins, and for good reason. The skin is oft considered the best part of the bird, so why not make it the star of the show? The dish was all that you'd expect: crunchy, salty, savory shards of chicken-y goodness, made even better with a dash of the included hot sauce.


Crispy Shrimp Heads & Chili Vin [$6.00]
Deep fried shrimp heads are a favorite of mine at sushi joints, so again, why not make a whole course out of 'em? Crunchy and briny, the heads paired swimmingly with the heat in the dish, while a hit of lemon was the icing on the cake. Talk about creative reuse.


On the beverage front, we commenced with some bubbly, specifically a bottle of the Jean Philippe Brut, France [$40], a Blanquette de Limoux from France's Languedoc region. It was wonderful, with some juicy grape-y and apple-y flavors that managed to convey sweetness without being cloying. Undeniably fun, and utterly gluggable.


Butter Biscuits & Condiments [$6.00]
And here we come to HatH's much bandied about biscuits, served tonight with a delightfully sweet cinnamon butter, juicy blackberries, and a wonderfully creamy-spicy pimento cheese. They're probably worth the hype, and likely the best versions that I've ever had: crisp out the outside (with a nice "crust"), yet soft and fluffy within, and super, duper flaky. How flaky? They literally fell apart when I picked 'em up. Yeah, you gotta order these.


Smoked Trout, Boiled Egg, Pickled Onion, Capers, Avocado Toast [$12.00]
A jar held the smoky, fishy, oily essence of trout, its palpable heft fortunately moderated by the mound of crisp pickles nearby. The egg was certainly tasty, though a touch superfluous, while the avocado toast served as a subdued base to the dish.


Brussels Sprout & Peanut Salad, Aged Cheddar, Bacon Sherry Vinaigrette [$11.00]
Our salad arrived looking more like a slaw, with the salty weight of the cheddar taking center stage against the wonderful crunch of the peanuts, while the vinaigrette tied things together with a sweet, tartish verve. There was only one problem: the bitterness, the crunch, what I love about Brussels--it was all a bit overshadowed, set in the background.


To make good use of the BYO policy, I brought along three beers that I'd pulled from my fridge, all Americans in keeping with the restaurant's theme. The first was the Epic Brewing Brainless On Cherries from Utah, one of only 1,800 numbered bottles from releases #13. It was a beautifully ruby-tinged Belgian-style ale, brewed with cherries and aged in French oak red wine barrels. I found it surprisingly light and thin, with a pretty restrained expression of the fruit and less sourness than I was expecting.


Shrimp & Grits, Mushrooms, Bacon, Scallions [$20.00]
A staple of Charleston and its surroundings, the shrimp 'n' grits is a relatively new item on the menu, and is a surefire winner. The shrimp were cooked spot on, with a great bite to them to go along with their subtle, saline sweetness. The grits, meanwhile, were even better, creamy and satisfying, with a fantastic hit of salt from the bacon, all while the mushrooms added an earthy veil to the dish that worked flawlessly with both elements. An absolute must-try.


Venison Carpaccio, Horseradish Crème Fraiche, Pickled Garlic, Gremolata, Fennel [$15.00]
Ironically, the only dish on the menu featuring hart (deer) was the least successful. The meat was actually a bit lost amongst the other ingredients in the dish, the gremolata and crème fraîche in particular, though I did appreciate the salty kick of the cheese here, as well as the lightness of the fennel strands.


Shishito Peppers [$6.00]
Up next was a classic preparation of shishitos, the char on the peppers working beautifully along with their sweet spice. Everyone knows that about 1 in 10 shishitos are super hot, so I must've had some back luck tonight, as I kept getting a string of the spicy ones. Yet, I kept going--pleasure and pain I suppose.


To pair with our heartier courses, I brought out the Bootlegger's Brewery Knuckle Sandwich, a limited release double IPA brewed right here in Fullerton. It was a superb example of the style, with a great malty base intermingled with the requisite citric and floral nuances. Supremely balanced between bitter and fruity flavors.


Hanger Steak, Polenta, Mushrooms, Snail, Herb Butter [$22.00]
A hanger steak was nice--tender and flavorful--but it sort of took a back seat to the snails. Indeed, the escargots had a lovely texture to them, and showed off a mouth-watering saltiness and savor amplified by the mushrooms and butter. Tasty, but domineering, though fortunately, the polenta here did help balance things out.


Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Bacon [$6.00]
What I felt was lacking in the salad above I found right here in this plate. The bitterness of the sprouts was proudly displayed here, deftly paired with a whisper of char astringency, a touch of sweetness, and the salty punch of bacon.


Melted Raclette, Butterball Potatoes, Cornichons, Ham, Mustard, Soft Bread [$15.00]
Our last savory dish, a reimagined version of the Swiss raclette, featured the always-winning combination of cheese and potato. Indeed, the age-old pairing made perfect sense, forming a hearty, homey, comforting mélange of tastes and textures, perfectly perked up by a hit of salty ham. At the same time, the traditional accoutrements of pickles imparted a sense of moderation to the course, and the bread was a natural pairing, too.


To go along with dessert, I paired a hand-numbered (#435) bottle of Joseph James Brewing Bourbon Barrel Russian Imperial Stout, a version of the brewery's standard Red Fox RIS that's aged for seven months in (Four Roses?) Bourbon barrels. Dark as night, unquestionably viscous, and smooth, the beer was loaded with notes of chocolate and coffee on the nose and the palate, with a marked sweetness all commixed with an undercurrent of oaky goodness from the barrel aging. Nice!


Lemon Ice Box Pie [$6.00]
Time for some desserts, which are handled here by Pastry Chef Sarah "Bearclaw" Schreck. We began with the ice box pie, a Southern treat that's quickly becoming H&H's signature dessert. The custard here was fabulous, with a dense, frozen-ish consistency and a boatload of puckering, lemony sourness balanced by the sugary meringue, all while the graham cracker crust served as a flawless complement.


Charleston Coconut Cake [$6.00]
We ended our night with easily the best coconut cake I've ever eaten, and one of the most delicious cakes I've had, period. Possibly inspired by the "ultimate" version at Peninsula Grill, it conveyed a gorgeous coconut sweetness within 10 layers of moist, sponge-y, saturated goodness, topped off by a delightful toasted coconut character. It was almost tres leches-like in nature. Perfect.


The Hart and the Hunter Manager Jonathan Strader, along with Co-Executive Chefs Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga.

Before opening Hart and the Hunter, Dunsmoor and Tominaga embarked on a culinary tour of the South, and perhaps because of this, the cooking seemed slightly tweaked from before. Indeed, they're still intermingling the traditions of American Southern cooking with Cal cuisine sensibilities, but the dishes seemed a bit cleaner, more focused, with a clearer Down South aesthetic. I'm glad that the two have emerged from the WiSC debacle as strong as ever, and finally found a place to call their own.

Littlefork Restaurant
1600 Wilcox Ave, Hollywood, CA 90028
323.465.3675
www.littleforkla.com
Thu 03/21/2013, 09:00p-11:25p





The dearth of solid eateries in Hollywood has long been the bane of many an Angeleno, but the situation just got a little better recently with the launch of Littlefork (a reference to those ubiquitous oyster utensils), the newest project from the long-absent Jason Travi. Serving as a sort of homage to the Chef's Massachusetts roots, the restaurant represents a partnership with David Reiss (Sunny Spot, A-Frame, Alibi Room, The Brig) and debuted at the start of January. The conceit here is that Travi pays tribute not only to his birthplace in New England, but also draws inspiration from the southern reaches of Canada near Montreal, an ideology that manifests itself clearly in the prevalence of smoked meats on the menu.

A quick recap: When we last mentioned Jason Travi, he was in the midst of a falling out with his partners at Fraiche and Fraiche 2.0 (Riva). It was October 2009, and if you recall, he left the country abruptly with his wife Miho and their newborn in the middle of the Riva-to-Fraiche transition. Upon returning in December, he began looking for a place to open his own solo project, but ended up accepting a position as Corporate Chef for restaurateur Jeffrey Best the following March. He stayed in that role for two years, revamping the menus at Mesa in Orange County and Studio City's Firefly while also collaborating on the opening menu at Downtown sandwich slanger Blue Cow Kitchen. In October 2012, Travi cooked a night at the latest iteration of Test Kitchen at Bestia. Shortly thereafter, he announced plans for his triumphant return at Littlefork, and here we are.


The interior has been transformed since its days as Shin Korean BBQ. Penned by designer Sean Knibb (who also did Roy Choi's A-Frame), the space has a sort of Mid-Century-meets-Scandinavia vibe. The dining room is pictured above, but there's also a separate, livelier bar area.


The Littlefork menu combines Travi's interpretations of the best of New England and its surrounding Canadian environs. To drink, think whiskey-centric cocktails by barman Dino Balocchi of Chicago's famed Longman & Eagle, as well as a smattering of wine and beer. Click for larger versions.


To start: a jar of complementary house-made pickles.


GEORGETOWN SWIZZLE [$12.00] | dark rum, jamaican rum, EXR, lime, demerara, mint
LOGAN SQUARE [$12.00] | gin, carpano, benedictine, angostura bitters, chocolate, mint
A couple cocktails to start. The Georgetown Swizzle was a twist on the classic, an almost quaffable concoction that nicely played sweet-spicy-bitter flavors over the boozy heft of the rum, all while the mint added an overarching lightness to the drink. The Logan Square, meanwhile, paid homage to the location of Balocchi's former digs in Chicago. The balance of gin, Carpano, Bénédictine, and bitters all made sense, though you had to taste hard to find the chocolate and mint; they were there, but very, very subtle.


CRISPY HEAD CHEESE [$6.00] | smoked tomato aioli
I'm quite the fan of fromage de tête, and have a hard time not ordering it, hence its appearance tonight. It came in fried fritter form, thus looking quite innocuous to the head cheese virgins in my party. Once you bit in, though, the slick, gelatinous consistency of the meat jelly was there, proudly displayed, though tempered by the savory outer crust. These were tasty little bites, nicely complemented by the tangy aioli and bitter veggies on top.


MAPLE EGGS [$9.00] | crispy bacon
I also had a hard time passing these up on the menu, ostensibly a nod to Alain Passard's iconic oeuf à l'Arpège. Eggs arrived in light, fluffy form, perked up by the crisp, salty shards of bacon, while the maple cream provided an undercurrent of sweetness that made itself known toward the finish. Breakfast-y.


CLAM CAKES [$6.00] | house tartar sauce
Clam cakes were delightful, really showing off the texture and brine of the seafood against the savory accent of the fried batter. Lovely with a squirt of lemon and dab of the included tartar sauce.


SMOKED MEATS POUTINE [$7.00] | curds, gravy
Littlefork's poutine was one of the more traditional versions around. It worked out though, with the gravy adding a hearty, heavy blast of smokiness to the salty fries, while the cheese curds offered up a fitting counterpoint to the dish. Nice texture on the taters, too.


JAMES & YORK [$12.00] | rum, port, lime, pineapple, chesapeake & creole bitters, molasses
Our server tonight just so happened to be none other than the lovely Semhar Tadesse, whom you might remember as the first contestant booted off the island on Survivor: South Pacific. The James & York just so happened to be her favorite cocktail on the menu. It was mine, too. I adored the interplay here between the rum and the sweet 'n' spicy notes of the bitters and molasses, all while the pineapple and lime added a fantastic tartness to the mix.


FISH STICKS [$9.00] | pickled vegetable salad, orange dijon sauce
Fat-fingered fish sticks were nice, reminding me of an uppity incarnation of the ones made ever so popular by the Gorton's Fisherman. I liked the levity provided by the pickled veggies here, but the orange Dijon was overly tart, covering up the delicate flavors of the fish somewhat. I would've much preferred a more traditional mustard here.


OYSTERS [$13.00] | cider mignonette, cocktail sauce
East Coast oysters--Rocky Nook and Naked Cowboy--were spot on: salty, clean and crisp, tasty alone and just as good when slurped with the various accoutrements provided.


PORTUGUESE MUSSELS [$16.00] | linguiça, beer, chickpeas
Mussels were also enjoyable, their delicate salinity working hand-in-hand with the savory chunks of linguiça tossed in. I loved the use of chickpea here, which added a wonderful heft and textural element to the dish.


BRUSSELS SPROUTS [$8.00] | apple cider braised, sage, crispy chicken skin
Being the Brussels sprouts fiend that I am, these were a must-order as well. They were delicious, conveying the bitterness inherent in the vegetable along with a delightful sweet 'n' sour character from the cider, all while the chicken skin added a further blast of savory goodness.


EL PERDIDO [$12.00] | tequila, lime, chartreuse, cocchi americano, strawberry chile bitters
The last cocktail brought us El Perdido, appropriately featuring tequila. There was an almost candied sweetness to the drink, which was a bit much for me, though the bitter, herb-y nuances here did provide a semblance of balance.


STEAMED SNOW CRAB [$18.00] | chermoula spice, charred lime
There was far too much work involved with the snow crab, but the results may just have been worth it. The flesh of the crustacean was soft and sweet, tasty alone, but at the same time, not overwhelmed by the herb-y zing of the chermoula.


ROASTED CAULIFLOWER [$7.00] | pimenton, pickled yellow raisins
Cauliflower was also a success, still a bit crisp, with a great roast-y character and a hit of sweetness from the raisins.


LOBSTER ROLL [$18.00] | parker house roll, house salt & vinegar chips
I'm happy to report that Angelenos have yet another choice when it comes to lobsterrolls. The version here, done more in the cold Maine salad style as opposed to the hot Connecticut style, went over very well with us. The lobster itself arrived supple and sweet, not overcooked and not masked by the mayo, and worked flawlessly with the sweet, buttery bread, while the greens added a kick of offsetting astringency to the dish.


BRISKET [$16.00] | three mustards
Finally, we ended our run of savories with an item from the "Apple Wood Smoked" section of the menu. Montreal-style brisket arrived thinly-sliced, with a trio of mustards: whole grain, raisin-infused, and Dijon. The meat was deftly smoked and expertly spiced, as well as fork-tender, though it could've been juicier, more succulent. I enjoyed the brisket alone, but the mustards really did their job here as well in providing a point of contrast to the beef.


Desserts by Pastry Chef Miho Travi (the husband-and-wife team met at Spago), natch, were a must. Click for a larger version.


WHOOPIE PIE [$8.00] | two pies, marshmallow fluff
Our first was the whoopie pie, an iconic dessert endemic to the New England area. They were about as good as you'd expect, with the moist chocolate cake combining with the marshmallow frosting in satisfying fashion.


APPLE CIDER DONUTS [$8.00] | apple butter, salted caramel
Apple cider donuts, meanwhile, were even better: hot and crisp, with a nice spice to 'em augmented even further by the butter and caramel.

I'm happy to report that we have yet another legit place to grub in Hollywood. It's nice to have the Chef back cooking, and this experiment of melding an East Coast seafood joint with a Montreal-esque BBQ joint seems to be working, though next time I'd like to sample more of the heartier fare. Cocktails, meanwhile, were promising, and service was on point, too, so I can't complain. Welcome back Jason.