kevinEats

Flores Restaurant
2024 Sawtelle Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
424.273.6469
www.floreslosangeles.com
Mon 07/01/2013, 08:15p-11:00p

Flores Exterior

The latest addition to the burgeoning Little Osaka dining scene opened on June 11th in the old Sawtelle Kitchen space. Flores is the work of Stanford grad and home accessory designer Amal Flores, who constructed the restaurant in the building that, decades before, was home to Greenson Gallery, where his sculptor father Gene Flores exhibited back in 1969. The kitchen here is run by the husband-and-wife team of Rob Lawson (Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Gordon Ramsay) and Angela Hernandez (The Bazaar, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Corton). Also on board is Spaniard Cesar Bermundez Cifuentes, who comes to us from Barcelona and handles Pastry Chef duties. The front-of-the-house, meanwhile, is headed by General Manager and San Francisco native Dagny Mendelsohn (Macao Trading Company, Employees Only, Bar 11, Schiller's, Pastis, all in NYC), while Serge Milenkovic (RivaBella, Little Dom's) helms the beverage program.

Flores' menu emphasizes the modern rustic mantra that's all the rage these days, but the plates seem to exude a bit ambition than the norm. As far as the drinks go, you'll find a reasonably-priced wine list assembled by Milenkovic, along with a smattering of beers as well. In the future, look out for breakfast, lunch, and even brunch options. Click for larger versions.

We wanted to start with something fun and fizzy, and thus went for a bottle of the Carletto Prosecco NV [$29]. It was a lightweight sparkler: crisp, acidic, and effervescent, with a sweet, apple-y character to it and a slightly boozy backbone.

Deviled Eggs [$6.00] | crispy pig ear, pimenton
Being the egg floozy that I am, these were a no brainer, and as tasty as I'd imagined. The egg was clearly the hero, but I loved the hit of salt added by the crunchy bits of pig here, as well as how the paprika imparted an undercurrent of spice to the dish.

Pig Cheek Croquetas [$10.00] | seaweed aioli
Pork was also used to good effect here, with the croquettes coming out crisp-creamy and undeniably piggy, nicely tempered by the tangy taste of those pickles.

Ocean Trout Crudo [$14.00] | lemon and crème fraiche
A crudo of trout was excellent, with the supple, yet substantial fish really coming to the fore, positively imbued with a fantastic, lingering smokiness and brine that paired swimmingly with the classic flavors of crème fraîche and dill.

Kanpachi Ceviche [$14.00] | young thai coconut, lime, grapefruit
The amberjack ceviche was similarly superb, with the fish forming a great base on which to really enjoy the bright, aromatic, Asian-y flavors at play. You probably want to get this.

Tokyo Turnips [$8.00] | wakame butter
Tokyo turnips were crunchy and juicy, with a mild, vegetal relish that made sense with the savory, umami-laden butter.

Fresh Naps, just in case we got our hands dirty with the next course.

Grilled Prawns [$16.00] | cajun spice, lemon aioli
Prawns were lovely, thoroughly cooked, yet not overdone, with a delightful char to go along with their inherent sweetness. I loved the Cajun seasonings here as well, which managed to complement the shrimp without dominating it. Great exclamation point from the lemon, too.

Chicken Liver Bruschette [$12.00] | beetroot, cherries, bacon
The bruschetta was on point as well, with a deft balance between sweet and liver-y flavors interjected by salty pricks of goodness from the bacon. I really appreciated the juiciness of the cherries here to boot.

For our heartier courses, we ended up opting for the Clos de Gilroy, Grenache, Central Coast 2012 [$39]. I quite liked this one, finding it a very drinkable, velvety example of Grenache, spicy and herby at first, with a juicy smack of berry fruit coming in later. Yum.

Broccolini [$9.00] | garlic, chile, lemon
Moving on to the righthand side of the menu now, we began with the broccolini, which was rather nice. What struck me here was the sheer smokiness of the vegetable, which lingered long on the palate, tempered by the zestiness of lemon and a subtle veil of heat from the chile.

Meatballs [$13.00] | tomato, olive, mint
Meatballs were classic in essence: meaty, straightforwardly satisfying spheres underscored by a delicate touch of minty levity. Particularly enjoyable when taken with the included bread.

Poach Egg & Stewed Beans [$13.00] | smoked ham hock
Next up was the dish formerly known as Texas caviar. I say "formerly," as the restaurant was forced to change the name because customers were ordering it expecting actual fish roe. In any case, it was a commendable version of the American Southern specialty, with the beans conveying a nice weight to them, balanced by the bright, tangy flavors in the course, all while the ham added a backbone of saltiness to the mix. You can't go wrong with that poached egg, either. My only complaint here was that the accompanying bread was overly chewy.

Soft Shell Crab Sandwich [$15.00] | avocado, green tomato, brioche
I had some trepidations about the soft shell crab, but the kitchen worked it out here. The SSC itself was actually surprisingly tasty, properly crispy with nice depth of flavor to it that paired well with the various accoutrements, the sweetish brioche roll especially. Lovely tangy counterpoint from the okra, too.

Hanger Steak [$24.00] | pomme puree, smoked beef fat jus
The hanger was a prototypical example of the steak, with the meat coming out not particularly tender, but loaded with deep, smoky nuances and a nice crust. I liked how its flavors were augmented by the jus here, as well as the crunch and bitterness of the radicchio, but the onions were a touch sweet for me. The pommes puree, meanwhile, was pretty much spot on, a laudable representation of the dish that just worked beautifully with the steak.

Above, we see Cifuentes' dessert menu, short but sweet. Click for a larger version.

Blackberry Cobbler [$8.00] | creme fraiche ice cream, maple syrup
Cifuentes' cobbler was a worthy effort from someone's who'd never made one prior to this. It was exactly what you'd expect: hot, sweet, and fruity, with the crumbly crust moderating everything, all while the ice cream contributed a modicum of lightness to the dessert.

Strawberries [$12.00] | vinegar caramel, yogurt espuma
Strawberries, meanwhile, were pretty amazing, some of the sweetest I've had in fact, their natural flavor enhanced by the sugary swipes of caramel in the bowl, with the yogurt serving as the perfect foil.

Lemon Posset [$10.00] | almond, cognac
A posset of lemon was similarly delicious, with the sourness of the lemon faultlessly paired with the dessert's sweet, boozy notes. Utterly refreshing, with some great textures, too.

Chocolate & Olive Oil [$10.00] | citrus, lemon marshmallow
Chocolate and citrus were married here in commendable fashion, with the olive oil really showing through as a savory component, underscoring the entire dish. A smart exploration of sweet and salty coming together.

Banana Ice Cream [$3.00]
We had to try one of Flores' housemade ice creams, and ended up with banana. It was a great choice, with the dessert really displaying the pure, unmitigated essence of the fruit. If that wasn't enough, the sweet, cinnamon-y crumbles here worked as a perfect complement. Delish.

Hernandez and Lawson have aimed pretty high with their cooking here, and have hit the mark almost completely. The duo seems to touch upon all the notes that are so prevalent in the LA culinary landscape these days, presenting a menu that's approachable and unfussy, farm-to-table and whatnot, yet have done so with a certain finesse, a certain panache that elevates their cuisine above the norm. I came away from dinner quite satisfied indeed, and am curious to see where the team takes it from here.

Corazón & Miel Restaurant
6626 Atlantic Ave, Bell, CA 90201
323.560.1776
www.corazonymiel.com
Wed 07/03/2013, 08:15p-12:20a

Corazon y Miel Exterior

Bell is best known for two things: corruption of its municipal leadership, and La Casita Mexicana. However, it can add a third item to that list with the opening of Corazon y Miel ("heart and honey"), which undoubtedly represents another step towards the City's culinary legitimacy. The restaurant is the work of Salvadoran-American chef Eduardo Ruiz, Travis Hoffacker, and managing partner Robin Chopra. Ruiz cooked for two years at Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo's seminal Animal, and also worked a stint at Diego Hernandez's Corazón de Tierra in Baja. In 2011, he formed catering company Whim Kitchen with Chopra. The two LA natives were actually childhood friends, and reconnected once Ruiz started culinary school in Pasadena, realizing that they both shared a passion for food. Whim started off hosting underground dinners in a series called "Under the Table," and soon their catering business began to take off as well. As such, they took over Corazon y Miel's space, intending to use it to expand Whim, but eventually decided to turn the building into a restaurant, bringing on board Cali Banh Mi's Hoffacker, a friend of theirs, in the process. The much-needed restaurant debuted on March 2nd this year.

Corazon y Miel Interior

Corazon y Miel occupies the site once home to a cocktail lounge, a fairly intimate space with perhaps room for 50 diners. A bar dominates one side of the structure, while tables line the other. There are also three small booths at the front, as well as a private room in the back that I'm not sure is being used for anything at this point.

Votiva Margarita [$10.00] | Our house Margarita served in a traditional Mexican candle glass, Cherry "Wick"
Platoon of Death [$8.00] | El Pelotón de la Muerte Mezcal, Habanero Shrub, Sour Chili Rim
Speaking of those three booths, we took a seat at one of them and ordered up some cocktails as we waited for our table to get ready. First was the restaurant's signature Votiva Margarita, a beautiful rendition of the classic drink with its balance of tartness and sweet spice. The Platoon of Death, meanwhile, was much more in-your-face, a thick, viscous shot that gave up intense blasts of sour, spicy, smoky, and salty flavors, all leading to a boozy burn on the finish.

Art

We also took the opportunity to examine some of the original artwork on display, much of which is available for purchase, at very reasonable prices I might add.

Salva-Rita [$10.00] | El Pelotón de la Muerte Mezcal, Cointreau, Lime, Agave
Buho Rojo [$10.00] | Milagro Blanco, Pineapple Juice, Amaretto, Grenadine, Lime
The Salva-Rita was an ostensibly Salvadoran riff on the margarita, and had its own charms as well, a very balanced, well-integrated cocktail with a pleasing backbone of mezcal. The Buho Rojo was similarly delicious, with loads of pineapple on the attack leading to a remarkably sweet, floral spice that made it quite easy drinking.

Corazon y Miel's menu has expanded in both scope and price since opening, and features Chef Ruiz's updated takes on pan-Latin classics; some have even likened the food to a Latino version of Animal. We went for the "Fire the Menu" option, which allows diners to sample everything on the menu for $175, a substantial discount compared to ordering each item individually. To drink, cocktails (and there are a lot of 'em) are a must here. The restaurant opened with Christian Pulido behind the bar, but I believe he's gone, replaced by the capable Darwin Manahan. There's also a smattering of surprisingly interesting beers available, and even a couple wines, if you insist. Click for larger versions.

Patatas Fritas [$4.00] | house potato chips, scallion ash dip
Housemade potato chips were spot on: salty, crunchy slivers of patata goodness that I could easily munch on alone. However, that scallion ash condiment was uh-mazing, a smoky, deeply-flavored, and beautifully-tinted dip that had me wanting more.

Avocado Frito [$6.00] | avocado, coconut, mango & habanero chutney
The fried avocado was a fun little dish. The hero here was clearly the aguacate, its lush, creamy character on display, joined by a fantastically crisp, savory, coco-crust and hints of sweetness from the chutney. Interestingly enough, this item also appears, unchanged, on the dessert menu.

'Dulce de Puerco'

"Dulce de Puerco" [$5.00] | bacon, dates, whipped cotija cheese, mustard seed cider
Here was an updated version of the ubiquitous dish of bacon-wrapped dates, a Latin-ized version of Suzanne Goin's famed preparation if you will. The classic interplay between salty and sweet was well represented here, accented by a delightful touch of char and the creamy weight of the cotija.

Wedge Salad [$8.00] | iceberg, chili de arbol blue cheese, bacon & potato crisp, herbs
Ruiz's riff on the classic wedge salad was certainly commendable as well, with the crisp, juicy shards of lettuce melding gorgeously with the zesty, piquant dressing, all while the crispy bits added lovely pinpoints of saltiness to the fray.

Corazon y Miel [$3.00]
Corazon y Miel's namesake dish did not disappoint, coming out as a tiny bowl of chicken hearts, mixed in with a honeyed dressing, cilantro, and red onion. The corazones showed off a satisfying bite, with a lingering, earthy savoriness to them that was keenly tempered by the tang and sweetness of its accoutrements.

Ceviche de Corazon [$11.00] | shrimp, octopus, burnt peanut, house tortilla chips
The ceviche was universally praised at the table, and with good reason. The combo of shrimp and octopus was on point: tender, yet with a good bite, a perfect match for the bright flavors at play and the slight undercurrent of heat in the dish. What took this over the top, though, was the use of peanut as cancha, which added a marvelous, smoky, nutty component to the course. Fantastic textures on this one, too.

Jalapeño y Tocino [$6.00] | bacon, jalapeño, chorizo, street corn salad
In this oft-referenced "homage to street food," a singular jalapeño is stuffed with chorizo, wrapped in bacon, and placed atop a mound of corn. It's about as tasty as it sounds, a mélange of salty and spicy flavors moderated by the creamy sweetness of elote, all with the red onion on top adding a bit zing to the mix. Yum.

Ensalada de Cueritos [$7.00] | pig skin 2 ways, chili con limon, candied citrus zest
Here we had a duet of pork rind. The first was the cueritos, in which the pig skin is pickled, resulting in a slick, snappy, jellied consistency. It was actually restrained in its porkiness, with a pretty delicate flavor on its own that worked well with the sharply citric, spicy notes in the dish. We also had some classic chicharrones, crunchy, salty, and oh-so satisfying, perfect for scooping up the cueritos. Along with the course came a small taster of Coronado Brewing's Orange Avenue Wit, which ended up pairing perfectly with the pork, its bright, spicy, citrus-y flavors working hand-in-hand with the dish.

Carnitas Estilo Francés [$8.00] | pork rillete, coke reduction, pickled vegetables
Ruiz's version of pork rillettes was uncommonly tender (and quite uncommon, overall), yet expectedly porcine. The Coke reduction here was fortunately restrained in its sweetness, but the key was the pickled veggies, which added a countervailing crunch and tartness to the dish that really balanced things out.

Pelón y Beso [$8.00] | Milagro Blanco, Casera Margarita Mix, Liquid Tamarind Candy, Habanero Shrub
Vino De Iglesia [$8.00] | Chamomile Infused Sake, Elder Flower, Luxardo Maraschino, Grenadine, Lemon, Fresh Cherries
Lima Prohibida [$10.00] | Barsol Pisco, Luxardo Maraschino, Grapefruit, Lime, Piloncillo, Peychaud's Bitters
More cocktails. The Pelón y Beso conveyed a sour, puckering quality to it, joined by a sweet spice from the tamarind and a finish redolent of habanero. It even comes with an extra shot (beso) to share. Next was the Vino De Iglesia, my favorite of the trio with its soft, smooth nuances and deft mix of sweet, fruity, and floral flavors. The Lima Prohibida, finally, conveyed a sharp, tart, citric base with undertones of booze, tempered by just a whisper of piloncillo sugariness.

Wild Boar Chilaquilles [$14.00] | guajillo, roasted carrot crema, queso casera, fried egg
Corazon y Miel's take on chilaquiles was quite to my liking. I loved the sheer mix of different tastes and textures here, but with the spicy, savory, deeply-flavored boar remaining the clear star of the dish. There's lots going on here, but it all comes together cohesively (and deliciously).

Market Fish [$15.00] | steelhead trout, black mole, cassava, pickled cauliflower, red onion, almonds
Steelhead arrived flaky, juicy, and super buttery, with a hearty, mole-kissed flair to it that went superbly with the starchy cassava, all while the cauliflower and onion added a great counterbalancing acidity to things.

Corn & Black Bean Sopes [$14.00] | fried masa biscuit, corn salad, black bean guisado, pickled onion, habanero
Sopes were classic in essence, as well as delicious. The thick, hefty masa formed a substantial base to the dish, on top of which the corn and black bean really worked together, making for a straightforward, satisfying combination perked up by the kick of habanero and onion.

Arroz con Pollo [$13.00] | marinated quarter chicken, chorizo & chickpea rice, cherry tomato & jicama salad
Chicken came out tender, juicy, and with a good depth of flavor to it. Even more interesting, though, was the arroz, which had a nutty, sweet, earthy character that, when paired with the jicama, made for a really interesting, multifaceted compliment to the bird.

Churrasco a la Plancha [$20.00] | sirloin strip, chimichurri, black bean guisado, fries
The most expensive item on the menu is actually worth a try. The steak wasn't the most tender, but was positively teeming with succulent, beefy goodness. It was certainly enjoyable alone, but the accompanying chimichurri was simply marvelous, adding a bevy of bright, tangy notes to the dish that really paired perfectly with the heady flavors of the meat. The stewed black beans and fries on the side weren't anything to sneeze at, either.

Lomo Hash [$16.00] | petite tender, potatoes, bell peppers, poached egg, wasabi
Ruiz's tenderloin hash was certainly one of my favorites of the night. The meat itself was pretty much spot on--juicy, tender, and with a pretty remarkable lushness for lomo. The combination of potatoes and peppers just made absolute sense with the meat, and I loved the overarching lushness of that egg, too. Didn't really get much wasabi, though.

Salsa Verde [$12.00] | Milagro Blanco, St. Germain, Cucumber, Cilantro, Jalapeño, Lime
Mojito [$9.00] | Flor de Caña, Lime, Sugar, Mint Soda
The Salsa Verde, unsurprisingly, tasted like salsa verde, but one with a distinct sweet-sour component to it, livened up by an overarching cucumber presence. One of my dining companions also ordered a Mojito, my old standby. It was a classic interpretation of the drink, pretty much flawless, with a particularly appealing minty quality to it.

Pork Belly Sandwich [$10.00] | spicy adobo bbq, celery blue cheese slaw, fries
At this point, we moved on to the meat-between-bread portion of the menu, and first to act was this BBQ pork sandwich. The belly itself was meltingly tender, with a marked spicy sweetness to it, though it veered overly sugary for me, especially when taken with the sweet-ish roll. Fortunately though, the celery slaw made short work of the dish's heftiness, cutting through it all with aplomb.

Atlantic Burger [$11.00] | lamb, lime aioli, curtido, rajas de chile, cotija whip, fries
More to my liking was the Atlantic, which really showcased the earthy, heady savor of lamb. Indeed, the patty's ovine flavors were proudly conveyed here, only slightly tempered by the mount of veggies and cotija on top.

Corazon Burger [$10.00] | beef, bacon, grilled panela, sweet jalapeño onion relish, fries
Corazon y Miel's signature burger wasn't much to look at, but the flavors were definitely there. The beef was clearly the hero, coming out immensely juicy and brimming with mouth-watering meaty goodness. I appreciated the masterful application of panela here, and the salty, crunchy bacon worked wonders, too.

Pan con Chompipe [$16.00] | 2 pound salvadoran turkey leg sandwich
The menu's most visually-arresting piece is likely this slow-cooked turkey leg, inspired by Ruiz's grandmother. The meat was literally falling-off-the-bone tender, with a deep, salty, profound savor to it that was expertly balanced by the mounds of crisp, bright veggies piled atop, all while the accompanying roll remained pretty much useless.

Capirotada [$6.00] | mexican bread pudding, ice cream, figs, walnuts, fig syrup
On to the desserts now. Ruiz's version of the traditional capirotada was something to behold, a sweet, sticky, uncompromisingly figgy bread pudding that was all that I'd hoped it would be.

Boca Negra [$6.00] | chocolate cake, chipotle custard, ancho whip
The "black mouth" will appeal to chocolate lovers, the cake coming out dense and rich, with a smart savory component from the use of chilies, all while the blackberries added a tinge of fruity tartness to the mix.

Niños y Buñuelos [$6.00] | fried banana, ice cream, cinnamon sugar, caramel
My favorite of the desserts was this fantastic preparation of fried banana. The banana was beautifully presented, wonderfully fruity, and encased in a crisp, sugary wrapper just loaded with cinnamon-y spice. If that wasn't enough, the vanilla ice cream formed a perfectly cool counter to the banana that took the dish over the top. A must try.

Mexican Fruit Popsicle [$2.00]
We closed with one of CyM's popsicles, this one rendered in coconut. It displayed a very focused, true-to-life sweetness, replete with coconut flakes in the popsicle itself and a fizzy, almost Pop Rocks-esque sensation in the mouth.

Lots of leftovers: the result of attempting the "Fire the Menu" with a team of four not-so-prepared eaters.

Corazon y Miel just might be the most ambitious restaurant to open in Bell in, well, ever. I was quite a fan of how Ruiz was able to take his unmistakably Latin flavors and translate them to a more contemporary aesthetic, sort of melding the types of food he grew up with the of-the-moment style of cooking that's all the rage these days. It's an intriguing, curious take on the cuisine that manages to be fun, yet serious and substantial at the same time. Finally, another reason to make the schlep down to Bell!

Lukshon Restaurant
3239 Helms Ave, Culver City, CA 90034
310.202.6808
www.lukshon.com
Wed 07/10/2013, 08:15p-11:10p

Lukshon Exterior

Since opening at the start of 2011, Sang Yoon's Lukshon has stood as sort of the bastion of modern southeast Asian cooking in LA. I really enjoyed my first meal here, and figured that it was time for a revisit, now that opening chefs Jacob Kear and Johnny Yoo have been replaced by Executive Chef Ted Hopson.

Hopson, for his part, is a graduate of the University of California at Riverside ('03), and attended culinary school at CSCA/Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena. From there, he landed a position at Downtown's longstanding Water Grill, working under David Lefevre. He eventually reached the rank of Executive Sous Chef, but would follow Lefevre out the door in August of 2010. A few months later, Hopson became Exec Chef at Father's Office, then took over at Lukshon as well in June 2011. He is joined in the kitchen by Chef de Cuisine Nathan Macaulay (The Tasting Kitchen), while Laurie Pesce (Wilshire, Cafe del Rey, Wolfgang Puck) remains on as General Manager.

An interesting note: both Hopson and Yoon will be competing in the new season of Top Chef Masters, premiering on July 24th. They'll be joined by LA's very own Neal Fraser, as well Los Angeles magazine's Lesley Suter (who's serving as one of the judges). Oh yeah, and the whole series was filmed in LA too. You can bet I'll be watching.

Lukshon's menu has been tweaked to put more of an emphasis on shareable small plates, though the overall aesthetic remains. On the boozy side of things, Wine Director Marisa Brown has replaced Eduardo Porto Carreiro, though his reasonably-priced, Riesling-centric wine list remains. Cocktails, of course, are worth trying as well, and I can't complain about the beers, either (after all, this is where I discovered the fabulous Hitachino XH). Click for larger versions.

This evening, Lukshon's standard bill of fare was joined by a special dineLA deal, as well as a "Summer of Riesling" tasting menu, featuring Rieslings that would typically not be poured by the glass. In line with the event, we were treated to the riesling sekt gebrüder simon 2011 mosel, germany, as well as the riesling spätlese von hövel "scharzhofberger" 2007 saar, germany.

lukshon sour / yokohama romance / hot & sour gimlet

lukshon sour / yokohama romance / hot & sour gimlet

lukshon sour [$11.00] | old overholt rye, kalamansi, tamarind, lemon
yokohama romance [$11.00] | prunier vsop cognac, cherry heering, kaffir lime, lemongrass, shaoxing wine
hot & sour gimlet [$12.00] | monopolowa vodka, dragon chile, lime, thai basil, kinh gioi
We made sure to work our way down the cocktail list, beginning with this threesome. The Lukshon Sour was a viscous, creamy concoction featuring an appealing mix of sweet and sour that came together in a flavor profile reminiscent of banana. The Yokohama Romance, meanwhile, showed off a complex, boozy weight from the Prunier against a backdrop of dark fruit tartness, while the Hot & Sour Gimlet was all about a fantastic blast of aromatic, herb-y nuances up front leading to a sour-ish close tinged with heat.

hawaiian butterfish [$10.00] | pickled watermelon radish, daikon, nahm jim, rau ram
The meal got off to a strong start with a plate of butterfish. It was an eminently balanced course, with the clean flavors of the fish forming a perfect base on which the bright, multifaceted notes from the nam jim and rau ram could really sing. Lovely textures too between the supple slices of sashimi and the crunchy veggies.

pig ear terrine [$9.00] | edamame, pickles, ma-la vinaigrette
Our next course reminded me a bit of the classic Sichuan specialty fuqi feipian. The terrine arrived cool and gelatinous, with a pork-y relish to it that worked flawlessly with the slight undercurrent of heat in the dish, all while the pickles added a fantastic lightness and crunch to things. Even better? The crisp, salty slivers of fried pig ear tossed in.

tea leaf salad [$11.00] | cabbage, crispy chana dal, marcona almonds, peanuts, sesame, blue prawn
The tea leaf salad was pretty fantastic, the crunchy shards of cabbage forming a base on which to appreciate the counterbalancing blasts of sourness and acid, interjected by a gorgeous nutty crunch and a hit of umami-rich goodness from bits of xia mi. The prawn arrived perfectly cooked as well--buttery, briny, and delicious.

steamed cod [$15.00] | spicy citrus broth, lily flower, tatsoi
Hopson then sent out the cod. I rather liked this one as well, its stark white, soft, springy, moist flesh and mild taste serving as a counterpoint to the spicy, herbaceous, and wonderfully aromatic broth that managed to succinctly capture the essence of the traditional dish.

singapore sling / fujian cure

singapore sling [$13.00] | plymouth gin, cherry heering, benedictine, combier orange, pineapple, bitters
fujian cure [$11.00] | isle of skye 8yr scotch, lemon, galangal, lapsang souchong black tea
More cocktails. The Singapore Sling was a great rendition of the recipe, with a strong pineapple-y character backed by tasty notes of sweetness and herby spice--very drinkable. Meanwhile, the Fujian Cure was even better, with a fantastic, lingering smokiness that just permeates a backbone of saccharine tartness.

cantonese chicken soup [$7.00] | cellophane noodles, petite bok choy, 63° egg
The chicken soup was superb, really capturing the quintessence of Cantonese flavors. The bird itself was spot on, and I loved the crisp, crunchy bok choy here and how the egg just added a marvelous, enveloping richness to things. Lovely tanginess too from the pickled jujubes.

green papaya salad [$9.00] | cherry tomatoes, long beans, peanuts, crispy shallot, nam pla, lime
The som tam was another winner, a texturally wonderful dish that married sweet and sour flavors beautifully, all underscored by the pungency of that fish sauce. Fantastic savoriness from those shallots and peanuts, too.

bhutanese red rice [$9.00] | lamb bacon, maitake mushroom, egg, scallion, chinese celery
The red rice conveyed an intense, heady savoriness on the nose, though on the palate it was much more muted, with a buttery, somewhat nutty character laced with salty bits of bacon, all while the scallion and celery imparted just enough levity to the mix.

maryland soft shell crab [$13.00] | coconut "creamed corn", shishito peppers, pickled okra, spring onion, peanuts
Soft shell crab was surprisingly nice, one of the strongest preparations I've had to date in fact. The crab itself was wondrously crunchy, with a great brine to it along with an unobtrusive shell. The coconut and corn combo formed a sugary component in the dish that worked well with the inherent sweetness in the crustacean, and I loved the fragrant whispers of what I believe was basil in the dish.

formosa / five-spice mai tai

formosa [$11.00] | ethereal gin, lillet blanc, atomized mizhiu tou, ginger pearl onions
five-spice mai tai [$13.00] | rhum j.m. agricole blanc, zafra 21yr rum, plantation '00 rum, five-spice orgeat, lime
Our final round of cocktails began with the Formosa, which displayed very apparent notes of gin over a complex, subtle base of bittersweetness--a stiff one. The Five-Spice Mai Tai, meanwhile, was pretty much the polar opposite, with a fruity blast of tropical, spicy sweetness over a boozy rum backbone.

manila clams [$15.00] | glass noodles, pork belly, cloud ear, hijiki, thai basil
We had here what sort of amounted to a clam pho, and indeed, it was pho-ntastic, with the bright, aromatic flavors really melding well with the inherent goodness of those clams. I also appreciated the slippery, crunchy texture on the wood ear here, and the salty hits from the pork belly just took the dish over the top.

crab fried rice [$12.00] | blue crab, jasmine rice, egg, pea tendrils, serrano chile
The prosaic-sounding crab fried rice was actually maaahvelous, one of the best I've had actually. What struck me here was how forcefully the ocean-y nuances of the crustacean were conveyed, as well as how well-integrated the egg was. At the same time, the pea and serrano were key in providing a modicum of lightness to the course, making for a balanced, cohesive rice dish overall.

green on green [$12.00] | romano beans, english peas, fava beans, haricot verts, spring onion
This whimsically-named dish brought together a quintet of disparate veggies, each one distinct in terms of both taste and texture, but all coming together nicely, integrated by an overarching savoriness and spice.

shishito peppers [$9.00] | maitake mushrooms, house made xo sauce
Shishitos were classic in essence, with light pin pricks of heat augmented by an in-your-face blast of umami goodness from the combo of mushrooms and XO.

beef and broccoli [$28.00] | prime hanger steak, grilled gai lan, black bean ghee, puffed tendon
The kitchen then sent out the night's pièce de résistance, the priciest, biggest, and perhaps most amusingly-named item on the menu. The hanger itself was spot on: just teeming with beefy goodness and surprisingly tender to boot. I thoroughly enjoyed it alone, but the pungency of the black bean made sense too, though you had to be careful with it, lest the ghee overwhelm the natural beauty of the meat. Even more key was the use of kai lan, which imparted a well-placed crunch and bitterness to things.

With the cocktails dispensed with, we opted for beer next, specifically the flander's ale. bockor bellegems bruin. belgium [$9]. It was a pretty prototypical example of oud bruin, so think funky and tart, with an almost wine-like quality to it. Quite nice.

chiang mai curry noodles [$7.00] | chile, turmeric, lemongrass, chicken, yu choy, rice noodles
Here, we were presented with classic khao soi-esque flavors, resulting in a comfy, familiar curry experience, with the chicken and the veggies in perfect harmony. Lovely textures on this one, too.

grilled squid salad | chile sambal vinaigrette, cucumbers, chinese celery, mint
The squid salad was something off of the special Riesling menu, and showed off some really bright, bitter, minty flavors, all underscored by the zing of that sambal. As such, the squid, surprisingly, wasn't really the star of the show, becoming more of a textural component to pair with the various greenery.

chinese black mushrooms [$10.00] | maitake, woodear, shitake, mustard greens, lap cheong
The medley of 'shrooms was a veritable umami bomb, blending together the earthy, heady savor of the various fungi and commingling it with the sausage-y savor of lap cheong, all while the mustard tried in vain to rein things in.

dandan noodles [$7.00] | kurobuta pork, sesame, preserved mustard greens, sichuan peppercorns, peanuts
Dandanmian was just as good as I remembered (albeit slightly more subdued), a blast of spicy, mouth-numbing flavors that go along oh-so well with the mustards greens and peanuts.

Up until this point, Lukshon had never had a dessert menu, operating on the principle that, in Asian restaurants, dessert is often included for free. However, opening Pastry Chef John Park (XIV under Jordan Kahn, Providence, Water Grill) left recently to open Quenelle ice cream shop in Burbank. He's been replaced by Jessica Perez, and the restaurant has used this changing of the guard as an opportunity to install its first dessert menu. Click for larger versions.

With the oud bruin all drunk up, we went for something even more sour, the gueuze. girardin 1882. belgium [$18]. It was a classic interpretation of the style, a torrent of lactic, tart, acidic flavors that finished utterly crisp and dry.

chicory chocolate cake [$7.00] | sesame brittle, thai chili caramel, chocolate pudding, sesame ice cream
Dessert started strong with this sort of awesome chicory cake. The cake itself displayed a restrained sweetness with a bitter tinge, and went beautifully with the savory, spicy, nutty notes in the caramel and ice cream. I was particularly a fan of the sesame brittle, which I would've easily demolished on its own.

p.y.p.

p.y.p. [$7.00] | compressed peaches, frozen beijing yogurt, ginger streusel, passion fruit, pop rocks
I can only assume that this dessert was a nod to MJ's P.Y.T. It was pretty indeed though, with the sweet, juicy fruit pairing perfectly with the buttery, spicy combo of streusel and yogurt. Superbly well balanced, with a bit of whimsy from those pop rocks.

barley pudding [$7.00] | coffee streusel, caramelized banana, mandarin banana sorbet, puffed barley
The barley pudding was yet another winner. I loved the banana sweetness here, and how that played off the bitterness of the coffee so succinctly, all while the barley tempered the interaction while adding a delightful crunch to boot.

palm sugar brownies / lychee pâtes de fruits

palm sugar brownies / lychee pâtes de fruits

Mignardises comprised some mouth-watering palm sugar brownies and lychee pâtes de fruits. Even better were "Drumsticks" of coffee ice cream, chocolate glaze, and toasted coconut.

It's been too long. I really was quite happy with this dinner. The kitchen's interpretation of Southeast Asian cookery remains true to its essence--bold, lusty, not shy about flavor--but at the same time, there's an uncommon emphasis on precision, finesse, modernity here. Add to that a more focused, more manageable menu, and a fantastic selection of desserts, and it seems to me that, with Hopson now firmly at the helm, Lukshon's going stronger than ever.

A couple weeks before this meal, I paid a visit to Lukshon to attend a special lunch put on by the Hong Kong Tourism Board featuring three well-regarded Hong Kong chefs. The event was aimed to promote "Hong Kong Live at The Grove," a three-day series of performances, exhibits, music, classes, and of course, food. Now, I normally don't do these types of things, but I made an exception this time around due to my curiosity about top-level Chinese cooking. It's an area that I don't know much about, but would love to experience more from.

Lukshon Kitchen

Here we see Lukshon's gleaming, open kitchen shortly before the start of the luncheon. An interesting note: despite all the high-end, high-tech cooking tools available here, I was told that the Chinese chefs tended to prefer to do things old school, eschewing the deep fryer for the wok, as an example.

Chef Introductions

Sang Yoon introducing the three visiting chefs.

Hong Kong Tourism Board VIP Pop Up Media Luncheon Menu

Our five course menu with wine pairing, signed, natch. Click for a larger version.

1: Sichuan Lamb Tartare | pickled Fresno chilies, prickly ash, cumin and puffed black rice [Sang Yoon, Lukshon]
NV Delamotte Brut Le Mesnil
Serving as a sort of amuse bouche, the tartar was pretty stupendous, with the supple, snappy dices of lamb melding beautifully with the multifaceted notes of spice in the dish. Really well integrated and balanced, with a fantastic textural component from the puffed rice. A promising start to the meal.

2: Dim Sum Platter | shrimp dumpling, abalone tart, baked bun with BBQ pork, spring roll [Kwai-pui Mak, Tim Ho Wan]
2008 Knebel qba Riesling Trocken
Up next was former Lung King Heen chef Mak Kwai-Pui (a.k.a. Pui-Gor) of the famed dim sum eatery Tim Ho Wan, widely known as the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world. Going from right to left, I started with the baoyu ta, which showed off the sweetness of the abalone against the backdrop of sugary, crumbly pastry. Next was the har gow, a commendable presentation of the dim sum classic, with the essence of the shrimp proudly conveyed amidst its delicate wrapper. The chunjuan was also on point, with a wonderfully thin, crispy exterior hiding a delicious filling combining the earthiness of mushroom with the sweetness of what I believe was crab. I ended with the restaurant's famed cha siu bao, and it did not let me down. What struck me about it was the texture, how it was so crumbly, so light, as well as the perfectly balanced filling, which blended the savoriness of pork with a great saccharine note.

3: Sole Filet | with asparagus in black bean sauce [Mango Tsang, Ming Court]
2011 Sella "Majoli" Rosato
Following, we were presented a course from Executive Chef "Mango" Tsang Chiu-Lit of the two-star Ming Court at the Langham Place hotel. Even though Tsang scrapped his initial plans to steam the sole (instead of frying it), I quite enjoyed the results, finding the fish delightfully crisp on the outside, yet delicate on the inside, with a mild relish that paired beautifully with the black bean. Lovely counterpoint from the vegetables, too. Yes, I can-a have-a de Mango.

4: Hong Kong Style Braised Beef | with Chef Cheng's signature fried rice [Kam-fu Cheng, Celebrity Cuisine]
2009 Francois Cazin Cour-Cheverney Romorantin
Hailing from the two-star Celebrity Cuisine was Cheng Kam-Fu, who's known for his classic Cantonese stylings. Braised beef was just as you'd expect: almost falling-apart tender, with a good depth and richness to it, along with a subtle undercurrent of spice. The fried rice served as a fitting accompaniment, not too greasy, not too soft, with a classic flavor profile thanks to the egg, shrimp, and ham (Jinhua I believe) folded in.

5: Barley Cream | coffee streusel, aprium, cherry, banana sorbet [Sang Yoon]
NV Philippe Bornard "Tant-Mieux"
Dessert, finally, didn't disappoint either. It was a smart, modern presentation, the barley cream forming a base on which the interplay between the coffee and fruit flavors could really sing, with the banana notes creeping in and out. Very cool.

A Toast

A toast, thanks, and gift giving from HKTB's Executive Director Anthony Lau.

One of the nicest, and most useful swag bags I've encountered. I know I've been saying it for years, but I really do need to get my ass over to Hong Kong sometime.

Mori Sushi
11500 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064
310.479.3939
www.morisushi.net
Sat 07/13/2013, 08:00p-10:20p

Since debuting in 2000, Morihiro Onodera's eponymous restaurant has firmly established itself as one of the premier sushi spots in the Southland, second or third behind the epicness that is Urasawa. My last visit back in 2011 was spot on, really great, and, coincidentally, occurred right before Mori-san sold the place to his second-in-command, one Masanori Nagano. Now, Nagano had been a chef here from almost the very beginning, so I'm sure that the restaurant was left in good hands. Two years into this new ownership regime, a revisit made sense.

To drink, I started off with the Allagash White [$7.50], a refreshingly crisp, spicy witbier that paired quite well with the food.

Tofu

1: Tofu
As before, things commenced with a block of homemade tofu, topped with a dollop of freshly-grated wasabi and accompanied by a thimble of shoyu. The tofu, unsurprisingly, tended toward mild, with the soft, silken curd playing off of the dark flavors of the soy sauce, all while the wasabi added a crucial accent to the dish.

Edamame

2a: Edamame
Next was a long plate holding five little bites (the zensai). I worked my way right to left, and first up was the edamame, a "special" preparation that was exactly what I wanted, with the soy beans melding with the tangy strands of miyoga in laudable fashion.

2b: Tomato to Okura
A singular tomato (from the Santa Monica Farmers Market) set in a vinegar-y sauce, meanwhile, was superb: utterly juicy and sweet, but with a bit of tartness, as well as a texture that was quite unlike anything I'd experienced before. The okra was similarly on point, subdued and almost dainty, restrained in its mucilaginous qualities.

Awabi

2c: Awabi
Abalone arrived satisfyingly chewy, with a great bite to it and an umami-laced brine that was augmented by the earthiness of the gastropod's liver.

2d: Ichijiku
Figs were also excellent, their sweetness commingling beautifully with the nuttiness of the accompanying black sesame condiment.

2e: Mehikari
We ended with my favorite item of the quintet, a fried preparation of a deep sea fish known as "round greeneyes." It was fantastic, a symphony of disparate textures (as the mehikari was eaten whole, soft bones and all) joined by a delicate, yet completely satisfying ocean-y relish.

Sazae

3: Sazae
This impressive looking specimen is known as the horned turban, or turban shell. It was cooked tsuboyaki style, and topped with a quail egg. The resulting dish was quite something, the flesh of the sea snail coming out firm, snappy, and satisfying, with a delightfully subtle bitterness to it, all moderated by the lushness of that egg. When we were all done with the meat, we eagerly supped down the remaining "liqueur," all briny and umami-laden, from the shell.

4: Ayu no Shioyaki
Sweetfish from Japan was grilled simply in the shioyaki manner. As the name would imply, its soft, delicate flesh conveyed a certain sweetness to it, one that melded seamlessly with the salty, savory notes and bitter char nuances present. Note, too, the wavy shape formed by the fish, a traditional flourish meant to evoke the act of swimming. Yum.

5: Tai no Kobujime
Wild Japanese snapper came out kobujime style, which means that the fish was treated with kelp. Indeed, the essence of the kombu was very apparent initially, but then gave way to the lingering heat of wasabi over an austere, complex base of tai.

Hotate

6: Hotate
Hokkaido scallop was pure and sweet, with a bit of wasabi spice at the beginning along with a fantastic ocean-y taste on the close.

7: Hiramasa
Yellowtail kingfish from Japan was a summertime treat, firm with a bit of bite and a delicate, slightly sweet taste that played off the 'sabi commendably.

8: Kuromaguro
The first of three tunas was a wild blue fin varietal that was delightfully melty on the palate, with a focused flavor that was duly enhanced by the murasaki drizzled on top.

Mebachi

9: Mebachi
Big eye tuna came from Ecuador, and was even silkier in consistency, with a lighter, livelier taste to it vis-à-vis the preceding cut.

10: Kuromaguro Chutoro
Bluefin toro was of the "medium-plus" type, and was indeed wonderfully fatty, creamy almost, and verging on melt-in-your-mouth.

Kamasu

11: Kamasu
The kamasu (oft described as "barracuda") was fantastic, with a pretty profound richness and depth to it that was joined by a delightful smoky component.

Kohada

12: Kohada
Gizzard shad was beautifully presented, its silvery skin glistening. It was cured in vinegar, as is typically done with the fish, and was firm to the bite, with a strong, assertive salinity to it that paired well with the tangy notes present.

With the beer gone, we went with a bottle of sake, specifically the Koshino Kanbai Muku Junmai [$87], brewed by Ishimoto Shuzo out of Niigata. The "Pure Realm" came recommended by our server, and he didn't lead us astray. Think a base of rice-y goodness, very balanced, with an omnipresent, yet restrained fruity sweetness and just a touch of boozy heat toward the end.

Iwashi

13: Iwashi
It was great to see sardine presented, the fish coming out wonderfully slick on the tongue, with a focused brine to it that mixed beautifully with the bright combo of ginger and scallion.

14: Aori Ika
Japanese bigfin reef squid was creamy and sticky, with a very subtle taste to it that was nicely complemented by the soy sauce.

Mirugai

15: Mirugai
Crisp, crunchy geoduck came with a sprinkle of salt and a splash of yuzu, perfect accoutrements to the clam's inherent sea-like savor.

Ikura

16: Ikura
Salmon roe was marinated in a soy-based broth, which did a great job augmenting the natural salinity of the eggs. These had a lovely "pop" to them as well, and the nori wrapper was great in tempering the strong flavors at play.

17: Karei Engawa
Now, as we all know by now, engawa usually refers to the chewy fin muscle of halibut. However, in this case, we had the fin of Japanese flounder, or karei. To me, this one was all about texture. I found it even crisper, even more tendinous than halibut fin, with a very subtle flavor.

18: Kinmedai
Golden eye snapper from Japan was delicious, with a fantastic char-like bitterness to it that made for an eminently balanced bite.

19: Santa Barbara Uni
Mori is somewhat known for its presentation of two types of uni back-to-back. In this corner we had the Santa Barbara variety, which was cool and creamy, though not as sweet as I was expecting. Quite nice, especially when taken with the seaweed.

20: Hokkaido Uni
The Hokkaido version was sharper, with a more focused brine and a steelier consistency. I'd actually have to give it the victory on this night, a reversal from the decision last time.

Anago

21: Anago
The Japanese sea eel was quite unlike any other I've had. It was literally falling-apart tender, with a marked sweetness to it that transitioned to a more ocean-y character on the close.

Tamago

22a: Tamago
The appearance of tamagoyaki almost always signifies the end of a sushi meal, and tonight we were presented two varieties. The first was the more traditional preparation, arriving cool, sweet and eggy, with a firm, juicy, somewhat dense texture.

Tamago

22b: Tamago
The second was Urasawa-esque, almost cake-like and made using shrimp purée. It had a more multifaceted taste to it, with less sugariness and more salinity.

23a: Tofu Blancmange
Our first of two desserts was a blanc-manger, which perfectly blended the essence of tofu with a wonderful sweetness, all balanced by a sort of overarching piquancy.

23b: Shoyu Aisukurimu
The soy sauce ice cream, meanwhile, was something else, and by something else, I mean all sorts of awesome. There was a chocolate-y sweetness at first here, but the crux was the whisper of shoyu savor that really underscored the dish. Could this be the new salted caramel?

Yoshiyuki Inoue, Masanori Nagano, Taketoshi Azumi

Yoshiyuki Inoue, Masanori Nagano, Taketoshi Azumi

Chef/Owner Masanori "Maru" Nagano in the middle, flanked by Yoshiyuki "Yoshi" Inoue (who made the desserts) and Taketoshi "Take" Azumi (our capable itamae for the evening).

I'm very happy (and relieved) to report that Mori's going as strong as ever under Nagano's leadership. The meal tonight was near-flawless, and the new owner's doing a great job executing Mori-san's original vision here, turning out top notch traditionalist sushi and some stellar cooked dishes to boot. If that wasn't enough, Maru-san seems to have instilled a bit more fun into the demeanor of the chefs here, whom I found lighthearted, easy to deal with, and not afraid to crack a joke. For all you sushi fiends out there, this place still needs to be on your bucket list.

[UPDATE 2013-07-25: Out of the 51 entries received, only 34 were valid. Stella M. Lee, GRACE, Anonymous{Amy}, Catherine Hsu, Nerissa N, and Anonymous{randy b}, you all submitted after the deadline unfortunately. Meanwhile, Tam Truong, 1000steps, Hillary Hon, Leah Newman, asdfqwerty, DonutLee, jonathans, and Rachel Marks didn't include an email address. A shame really, as there were some promising comments there. Also, Jonathan Lee submitted a verbatim copy of what Ada Li wrote, so I'm not sure what was going with him. In the end though, there were some great submissions this year, and it was a tough choice, but the final winner I have to say is Jane. For the rest of you however, all is not lost. Since there were a number of strong entries, I'm working on seeing if I can get a discount code for the "runners-up." I will be contacting you separately, so be on the lookout. Thanks for playing!]

On the evening of Saturday, August 3th, Project by Project (Facebook, Twitter) will be hosting its 11th annual tasting benefit: Plate by Plate. Project by Project is a national 501(c)3 non-profit centered around issues relating to the Asian-American community. Each year, the group chooses a particular theme to focus on (whether it be health, education, or the arts), and partners with a charitable organization in that space. This year's partner is East West Players, the country's premier Asian-American theater troupe.

As always, the upscale event will showcase the gastronomic talents of some of LA's top restaurants, as well as alcoholic and non-alcoholic libations from a variety of leading purveyors. VIP attendees will also be treated to a cocktail competition judged by Matt Biancaniello and Devon Espinosa and featuring contestants Deysi Alvarez (Paiche, Mo-Chica, Picca, Fraiche, Rivera), Dino Balocchi (Littlefork, Longman & Eagle in Chicago), and Brittini Rae Peterson (Goldie's, Ink, The Tar Pit, Fig & Olive, Soho House).

The benefit will be held at the beautiful Vibiana cathedral in Downtown, future home of Neal Fraser and Bill Chait's long-awaited Redbird. Be sure to check out my report from last year's event.

.EATS(31).

Lexington Social House

.VIP(3).

.SWEETS(2).

.DRINKS(18).

Tickets are currently on sale at $150 for general admission. However, I'm giving away two VIP tickets (giving you access to the preview hour, cocktail competition, VIP lounge and bar), valued at $250 each. To win, just leave a comment with your name, email, and a brief blurb about what you're looking forward to most about the event (the food, the open bar, the women, the men?), and why. Please submit entries by noon PDT, July 24th. I'll select the best entry and announce the winner Thursday. Good luck!

Badmaash Restaurant
108 W 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.221.7466
www.badmaashla.com
Mon 07/22/2013, 09:30p-11:20p

Badmaash Exterior

I'm beginning to get sick of the whole gastropub thing by this point, but one that's caught my attention in recent times in Badmaash ("naughty" or "badass" in Hindi, roughly) in Downtown. Set inside the former site of The Charcoal Grill, the DEX Studio-designed restaurant opened on May 13th and is helmed by Executive Chef Pawan Mahendro, along with his two sons Nakul and Arjun. The goal here is to present a sort of Indian gastropub, churning out Indian-inflected cuisine as seen through a casual, cliché-busting, "kids of immigrants" type of lens.

About the Chef: Born to a food-centric family in the Punjabi city of Amritsar, Mahendro was trained in classic cuisine at Mumbai's Institute of Hotel Management, Catering Technology and Applied Nutrition. After graduating in 1977, he secured a job at the Taj Mahal Intercontinental, then moved to the Centaur Hotel. In 1978, he formed a business running a corporate cafeteria in Mumbai, then came to Canada in 1982 to train at the Holiday Inn. Mahendro decided to stay, and went on to work at several restaurants in Toronto, including the well-regarded Daily Planet. In 1995, he opened a French restaurant in New York's Rockland County, then traveled the world as a restaurant consultant before returning to Toronto. He served as Corporate Executive Chef at events company ByPeterandPauls.com before starting Jaipur Grille in October of 2002, which was widely lauded for its refreshing take on traditional Indian cuisine. Following the Chef's retirement, the family moved to Southern California in 2010, and by July 2011, had severed ties with the restaurant. Nakul and Arjun convinced their father to come out of hibernation, however, to help them realize their vision for a neo-Indian eatery, and Badmaash is the result of that collaboration.

Badmaash's menu may be the first I've seen with hash tags, a nod to the influence that social media has on food these days. It features a good number of Indian classics, but also some more fusion-y, gastropub-y dishes as well. We also sampled items off of the special dineLA menu that was being offered this evening. To drink, think a smattering of surprisingly-interesting beers (almost always a good decision when it comes to Indian), as well as a handful of wines as well. Click for larger versions.

Speaking of wine, we opted for the Malbec The Show 2012, Mendoza, Argentina [$30]. I'm not sure if I've ever had Malbec with Indian before, and I'm not really yearning to have it again. The wine was fairly typical for the varietal, spicy and jammy, with a certain earthiness to it. There wasn't anything wrong, I'm just not sure it paired all that well with the food. Maybe a Kingfisher would've been a better idea after all.

2-Bite Fish Fray (machhi amritsari) [$8.00] | daily select fish golden brown in chickpea batter with carom seed, dried mango dust
We began with the restaurant's take on macchi amritsari, basically fried fish fritters. They were well-spiced, with a nice crunch on the crust, though the fish itself tended toward the dry side. I did appreciate the levity imparted by the herbs here, though.

Homemade Punjabi Samosas [$8.00] | short rib with pineapple and cilantro
Samosas were quite good, and were the first ones I've had to feature beef. The meat was hearty and satisfying, and went surprisingly well with the slight sweetness imparted by the pineapple. Lovely texture on the pastry here, too.

Chicken Wings a la Badmaash | #fuckingawesome; chickpea dusted and flash fried to a crisp, with homemade 5-pepper and tamarind glaze
The wings weren't necessarily as awesome as their hashtag would imply, but they were tasty nonetheless: nicely crisp, with an appealing combination of sweet and spicy flavors. I wouldn't mind a bucket of these.

Tomato & Watermelon Gazpacho | garnished with masala shrimp - plum tomato, fresh watermelon, red and green sweet peppers, red onion, serrano chili, cilantro
Serving as a sort of intermezzo in the dineLA menu, the gazpacho arrived tasting much like a salsa, a blend of cool, subtly spicy flavors underscored by a trace of watermelon-y sweetness. The shrimp actually worked out quite well here, adding a bit of textural interest to the pseudo-course.

Chicken Tikka Poutine [$12.00] | crisp masala fries topped with chicken tikka and cheese curds, doused in brown gravy
The poutine was unquestionably the star of the show this evening, and quite possibly the best poutine I've had (the owners' Canadianess showing through I suppose). The combo of the masala fries with the gravy and curds was spot on, and if that wasn't enough, the chicken was beautifully cooked--coming out tender, flavorful, juicy, and with a slight char bitterness--the perfect topping to the dish. An absolute must try.

Chili Cheese Naan [$6.00] | tandoori naan stuffed with hot chilies and aged american cheddar - with yogurt raita
Cooked in the traditional tandoor, the chili cheese naan functioned as your basic preparation of the bread, but with a subtle incorporation of the headlining ingredients that made it much more interesting. Very nice when taken with the raita.

Spiced Lamb Burger [$13.00] | ground and spiced in house - with spiced mayo, onion, lettuce, tomato on brioche bun
Another item that should be on your short list here is certainly the lamburger. The meat arrived properly rare, with a great Indian-inspired spice to it that should make it palatable even to you lamb haters out there (and I know there are a lot of you). It went swimmingly with the cilantro, various veggies, spiced mayo, and even with the sweetness in the brioche, making for a deft marriage of disparate culinary traditions.

Ghost Chili Lamb Vindaloo [$14.00] | lamb and potato braised in a spicy curry of bhoot jolokia and other chilies
The classic vindaloo was done up here with the much bandied about Bhut Jolokia. The dish was spicy, but not ridiculously so, the heat arriving on the palate fast and focused, with a particular quality to it that worked wonders with the sweet, almost tart flavors in the dish--a smart accent to the lamb. I will point out that the potatoes here were undercooked, resulting in a sort of firm, crunchy texture, but I actually enjoyed it against the near falling-apart tenderness of the meat.

Cheese Dumplings in Sweet Cream (ras malai) | traditional indian dessert - fresh paneer cheese dumplings soaked in sweet cream and whole milk, with rose and salted pistachio
Time for the sugary stuff. Chef Pav's version of ras malai (my favorite Indian dessert) was on point: cool and creamy, with a floral, sweet spice that really hit the spot.

Alphonso Mango Mousse | light and airy; fresh mango mousse that has had the aunty-ji's singing Chef Pav's name for years
The Alphonso mousse was sweet and tart, showing off a focused blast of fruity mango goodness accented by those blueberries.

Peddler's Creamery Daily Selection [$5.00] | local DTLA icecreamery! made with organic, fair-trade, local exotic ingredients... BICYCLE CHURNED IN SMALL BATCHES!!!!
Tonight ice cream selection from local producer Peddler's Creamery was a fantastic cardamom-cocoa nib variety. The spicy, aromatic nuances of the cardamom were on proud display, a perfect accompaniment to the smooth, sweet ice cream, all while the nibs added a touch of crunch and bitterness to the fray.

Chai Tea

We closed with a wonderful preparation of warm cutting chai, a beautiful blend of sweet, spicy flavors that might've been the best chai I've ever had. I appreciated the brightly-colored wire holder here, reminiscent of the ones used at roadside stands in India.

I wasn't quite sure what to expect coming in here, but overall I was pretty happy with the experience. Barring a couple quibbles, the food was on point, sort of blending traditional Indian flavors with a fun, casual, youthful swagger befitting Badmaash's environs. I applaud the Mahendros for doing something different with the genre, and am curious to sample more of the menu and see where this all goes.

Mari Vanna Restaurant
8475 Melrose Pl, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.655.1977
www.marivanna.ru/la
Fri 07/26/2013, 08:30p-11:55p

Mari Vanna Exterior

We all wept (or rejoiced, conversely) when the sixth iteration of Joe Pytka's Bastide closed its doors in May 2011. With that chapter of 8475 Melrose's story sealed, we were left wondering about who would take over this seemingly cursed spot. Well, we didn't have to wait long until it was announced that Russian hospitality group Ginza Project was opening up an outpost of their Mari Vanna chainlet here. Co-Owner Tatiana Brunetti originally wanted to launch the place in May 2012, but the restaurant blew way past its projected opening and debuted just this June.

Mari Vanna Patio

The old Bastide space has been thoroughly revamped, but fortunately the patio remains.

Mari Vanna Bar/Lounge

A former dining room has been cleared to make way for a cute little bar/lounge area, which the old Bastide never had.

Mari Sunroom/Karaoke Lounge

We also have a covered "sunroom," which is adjacent the old kitchen table, now converted to a wine room-cum-karaoke lounge(!).

Mari Vanna Fireplace Room

And of course, we have the main dining room, replete with fireplace, meant to recall an archetypal, rustic Russian residence filled with trinkets, figurines, and other such Russian-y things.

Mari Vanna's menu features all your favorite old-school Russian classics, executed with precision. There's also a family-style tasting menu option called the Russian Table (call ahead for this), and be sure to check out the rotating list of chef's specials as well. Click for larger versions.

To drink, vodka, unsurprisingly, is the star of the show here. Mari Vanna features a reported 70 different bottles of the stuff, and also infuses its own vodkas in house. The resulting liquors are then used in the restaurant's vodka-centric cocktail list, and also served neat. Click for larger versions.

Bread

Bread is a key part of the Russian table, and here, a black variety was presented with sea salt, sunflower oil, chopped radishes, and green onion. The rye tended toward full-flavored, hearty, and I especially appreciated the intensity of the salt here, as well as the lightness and crunch of those radishes.

Olivier Salad [$12.00] | Mélange of Roasted Vegetables, Pickles, Hard Boiled Eggs and a Touch of Mayonnaise
Regular readers may know that I'm quite the fan of potato salad, the this high-class version was surely one of the best I've had. Think utterly balanced, with a great interplay between contrasting notes of egg, vegetable, and hammy savor, all augmented by a bit of spiciness toward the close.

Herring under a Fur Coat (Shuba) [$10.00] | Layers of herring, Potatoes, Carrots, Beets and Onions topped with Egg with a touch of mayonnaise
Here before us was a plate of dressed herring, or shuba (the Russian word for jacket). I don't think I've had anything quite like it, but the dish worked. The sheer fishiness of the herring was apparent, especially upon first taste, but its various accompaniments really moderated its potency, providing a blanket of cool, mild sweetness that really integrated the dish.

Chicken Kholodetz [$12.00] | Chicken Aspic served with Horseradish, pickles and spicy Russian mustard
The kholodets was probably the most challenging course of the evening. The chicken itself was quite tasty, with a really appealing spice to it, but the aspic-to-meat ratio seemed off. There was just too much jelly, which didn't have much flavor on its own, and sort of overwhelmed the bird. Fortunately, the fantastically spicy mustard here did help bring things together, adding a sharp, potent jab of heat to the dish.

Fish plate [$19.00] | House cured Salmon, Cold Smoked Paddlefish and House Smoked Sturgeon
Next, we moved on to some housemade platters, the first featuring three types of fish. Salmon was on point: slick, fatty, and very nice with a touch of lemon-y tang. The paddlefish, meanwhile, was soft, almost pillow-y, with a lovely, forceful saltiness to it. However, the most fascinating item here was clearly the sturgeon, which I found firm and even a bit crunchy, with a growing, lingering brine.

Homemade Assorted Meat plate [$19.00] | Roasted Pork Loin, Chicken Roulette and Beef Filet
"Charcuterie" was also made in house. The pork was fairly benign, a bit salty here and there, but not particularly interesting. My favorite was actually the chicken roulade--cool and supple, with a wonderful hit of pepperiness. Lastly, we had the beef, which was flaky, appropriately dry, and somewhat reminiscent of the Chinese cold cuts one sometimes finds on banquet menus.

Rosolnik Soup [$11.00] | Chicken Barley soup with Potatoes, Onions, Carrots, pickles, Garnished with fresh dill, sour cream on the side
The rassolnik soup was delicious: hearty and home-y, with a satisfying savoriness from the chicken-root veggie combo that was deftly offset by the slight tang of those pickles. Sour cream was optional, but added an additional point of the interest to the potage.

Sunny - Seaberry Martini / Klubnichka - Strawberry Martini / Grusha - Pear Martini

Sunny - Seaberry Martini / Klubnichka - Strawberry Martini / Grusha - Pear Martini

Sunny - Seaberry Martini [$12.00] | House infused Seaberry Vodka, St. Germain Elder Flower, Fresh Lime Juice, Fresh Orange Juice
Klubnichka - Strawberry Martini [$12.00] | House infused Strawberry Vodka, Strawberry Puree, Fragoli, Fresh Lime Juice
Grusha - Pear Martini [$12.00] | House infused Pear Vodka, St. Germain Elder Flower, Pear Puree, Fresh Lime Juice, Splash of Sparkling Wine
Our first troika of cocktails began with the Sunny - Seaberry Martini. The astringency of the sea-buckthorn was expertly countered here, resulting in a pleasant citrus-y disposition with a hint of booziness. The Klubnichka - Strawberry Martini, on the other hand, had no traces of alcohol at all, instead coming out thick and sweet, with a very pure, unbridled strawberry essence. The Grusha - Pear Martini, finally, was even more viscous, with the brightness of the pear really coming through in the drink--not particularly complex, but delicious nonetheless.

Roasted Cornish Hen [$12.00] | Topped with garlic and served with pickled cabbage
The tsyplionok tabaka was another highlight of the meal. It was basically a perfectly roasted, spatchcocked Cornish game hen (a small chicken), simply seasoned but superb, and arriving at the table tender and succulent, with a great depth of flavor. At the same time, the pickles worked here in providing a bit of balance against the heft of that bird.

Handmade Veal Pelmeni - Russian Dumplings [$16.00] | Topped with Herbs, Butter and served with Sour Cream
The pelmeni were actually sent out by mistake, but we didn't complain when they told us to just keep them at the table. I found the dumplings very straightforward, with an agreeable savoriness from the veal stuffing to go against the herb-y overtones in the dish. Pretty simple, humble, and even a bit Chinese-y in essence.

Blini With Red Caviar 50 grams [$29.00]
Seeing as how we were in a Russkiy restoran, we felt compelled to order at least one form of fish roe. The red caviar here was markedly different from the ikura one typically finds. Instead, it reminded me of the sujiko that I'd had at Shibucho, being much saltier, much more in-your-face. I actually quite liked it, especially when taken with a dab of smetana and a shard of crêpe-like blini.

Ukrainian Borscht with Pompushka [$12.00]
The borshch, of course, was something that we just had to try given where we were. I quite liked the soup despite the preponderance of beets, finding it hearty and comforting, with its savory broth pairing swimmingly with a mix of root vegetables and a whisper of pepper. Even better, though, was the potage's traditional accompaniment of pampushky, baked little spheres of garlicky goodness.

House Infused Vodkas: Apricot, Seaberry (Oblepiha), Lingberry, Pineapple, Olives, Pepper

House Infused Vodkas: Apricot, Seaberry (Oblepiha), Lingberry, Pineapple, Olives, Pepper

At this point, our server brought out complementary shots of Mari Vanna's much bandied about house-infused vodka, in the following flavors:

Apricot - My favorite of the bunch, with a very true-to-life apricot sweetness paired with a slightly herbaceous tinge.
Seaberry (Oblepiha) - Tart and astringent, with an interesting savoriness to it.
Lingberry - Also known as lingonberry (the IKEA staple), this was super, super sour, puckeringly so in fact.
Pineapple - The pineapple, meanwhile, had an almost candied sweetness to it backed by copious amount of booziness.
Olives - This one was akin to alcoholic olive juice, basically an olive hater's worst nightmare.
Pepper - Quite tasty, with bright, peppery nuances leading to a growing, creeping burn on the close.

Kalinka - Malinka Martini / Moscow Mojito / Lolita Apricot - Martini

Kalinka - Malinka Martini [$12.00] | House infused Raspberry Vodka, White Peach Puree, Fresh Lime Juice, Fresh Raspberries
Moscow Mojito [$14.00] | House infused Honey and Oats Vodka, Mint, Fresh Lime Juice, Aged Dark Rum, Splash of Sprite
Lolita Apricot - Martini [$12.00] | House infused Apricot Vodka, Vanilla Black Tea Syrup and Fresh Lemon Juice
Time for more cocktails (as if we needed more after the shots). The Kalinka - Malinka Martini came out utterly fruity (and thick), with a berry fruit laden intensity that was easy to like. Our only non-martini drink was the Moscow Mojito, which was pretty similar to the standard variation, but with a more pronounced booziness to it along with the requisite mint and citrus notes. Finally, we had the Lolita Apricot - Martini, my favorite of the threesome with its soft, balanced vanilla and coconut-y flavors.

Beef Stroganoff [$27.00] | Thinly Sliced Filet Mignon in a light sour cream sauce, fresh Thyme, Pickles and Potato Puree
Mari Vanna's befstroganov is the restaurant's unofficial signature dish, and it did not disappoint. The earthiness of the mushrooms here paired perfectly with the sour cream in setting the stage for the beef to shine, while the thyme served as a great accent piece. I appreciated the countering crunch of the pickles as well, and loved the mashed potatoes here, which was fantastically smooth and buttery (even Robuchon would be proud).

Chicken Kotletki [$19.00] | Pan Seared Chicken patties Served with potato puree
The kotletki were sort of like mini hamburger patties. Or, think of them as the best chicken nuggets you've had: utterly juicy, and pretty profound in the flavor department too. I thoroughly enjoyed 'em alone, but the creamy potatoes here definitely made sense as an accoutrement.

Assorted Pirozjki - Beef, Cabbage, or Rice, Egg and Scallion [$3.00/each]
We ended the savory portion of our meal with a basket of pirozhki, basically bite-size stuffed buns that are not to be confused for pierogi. They come in three varieties at Mari Vanna, all distinguished by their shape. The beef preparation was quite nice, the filling almost stroganoff-esque in nature, with a certain tanginess to it. Cabbage, meanwhile, was more austere, unsurprisingly, while my favorite was the egg and scallion variant. Tasty overall, but a little on the dry side.

Birds Milk [$12.00] | Traditional Russian Dessert, very light sponge cake covered in melted dark chocolate
Both desserts from the specials menu were sent out on the house, presumably because of some of the long waits we endured in between courses. Our first was a cake-ified version of ptichye moloko candy, which I really enjoyed. The cake itself I found light, pleasantly sweet, and nutty and nougat-y on the palate, a great foil to the rich, slightly smoky chocolate drizzled on top.

Medovik

Medovik [$12.00] | Traditional Russian Honey Cake
The medovik was similarly delicious, a blast of viscous, honeyed sweetness that was beautifully tempered by the layers of cake. I seriously want to bring a whole one of these to my next birthday party.

House Infused Vodka: Pear

Finally, we enjoyed complementary shots of pear-infused vodka, a fitting, fruity conclusion to the evening.

I'd never really experienced Russian cuisine prior to this dinner, so I don't really have a sound basis for judgment here, but I can say that I quite enjoyed the meal. The food was hearty, full-flavored, straightforward in essence but somehow still very interesting at the same time, with a trace of refinement on the edge of rusticity. I think there's probably a lot of misconceptions or simply lack of awareness concerning Russian cookery around these parts, so I think a meal here could definitely help change some of our perceptions; it certainly did for me.

Ink Restaurant
8360 Melrose Ave, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.651.5866
www.mvink.com
Mon 07/29/2013, 08:30p-01:10a

It'd been a while since I last visited Ink, and I was curious to see what the restaurant was up to these days. For better or worse, I felt compelled to do it proper like I did my first time here and order the entire menu, a much more challenging proposition now due to the presence more items as well as larger portion sizes.

gin

gin [$13.00] | oro blanco, aperol, kefir lime, ipa foam, salt
mezcal [$14.00] | floc de gascogne, celery, lemon, cucumber
The bar (now run by Gabriella "Gabby" Mlynarczyk) ended up sending out every single cocktail on the menu, kicking things off with these two. The gin cocktail was pretty neat, with a salty, citrus-y blast on the attack that really tempered the booze, all while the drink decreased in intensity leading toward a short, clean finish. The mezcal, meanwhile, was rather nice as well, with the smokiness of the spirit well balanced by the contrasting sweet, sour, and cucumber-y notes present. Very subtle for a mezcal drink.

oysters

oysters [$19.00] | half dozen, mignonette ice
Oysters were really, really nice, with the sour-sweetness of the mignonette playing perfectly off of their inherent brine, making for an utterly balanced and nuanced presentation of the bivalves, replete with some textural contrast to boot.

little gems [$13.00] | burrata, anchovy cracker, lemon dressing
Here was what could be viewed as a thoroughly reworked Caesar salad. The lush, cool, creamy nature of the burrata made sense against the lettuce, while the lemon-y dressing added a bit of tartness to the fray. However, the key was the use of those anchovy crackers, which contributed an integrating salinity that really brought the dish together (while adding a lovely crunchiness in the process).

blended scotch [$14.00] | toasted coconut, thai basil, cardamaro
manzanilla [$9.00] | sherry, house rhubarb soda, strawberry lambic ale
Next, we had a veritable herb garden in the form of a blended scotch cocktail, its refreshing, fragrant aromatics leading to a silky smooth booziness from the whiskey cut by the sweet spice of Cardamaro--very cool. The manzanilla was also appealing, with a sweet, soft, floral, fruity nature to it that went beautifully against the sherry--almost apple juice-y in nature.

asparagus [$12.00] | cooked in hay, goats milk ice, medjool date
Asparagus arrived cooked in hay, giving it a cool smoky, almost meaty character that just worked with the lushness of the goat's milk. Also crucial: the dates, which imparted barely enough sweetness to keep things interesting.

cuttlefish [$16.00] | melon tenderloin, jalapeno jello
The Chef is somewhat known for his cuttlefish noodles, and it's easy to see why. Texturally, they were pretty amazing, with a soft, silken consistency to them, and worked wonders as a base to the dish. The slight spice of the gelatin paired gorgeously with the sugary, succulent fruit as well, while vesicles of finger lime added pin pricks of tartness into the mix. Even better? The fantastic savory bits tossed in--overall, a symphony of subtleties.

islay scotch [$16.00] | ginger, yuzu, honey (chef's favorite)
bourbon [$12.00] | cocchi rouge, campari, chocolate bitters, strawberry lambic
The islay scotch is ostensibly Voltaggio's favorite drink, and I can see why. It's a riff on Sam Ross' Penicillin, but is made completely with Laphroaig, leading to a stronger, smokier character than usual, but one that's still eminently balanced by the sweet 'n' sour notes present. Sticking with the whiskey theme, the bourbon cocktail also worked, with a strong bittersweet bouquet leading to a viscous body imbued with counterbalancing fruity and tart notes, all set against an apparent background of bourbon.

hamachi

hamachi [$18.00] | citrus kosho, smoked buttermilk, tomato, oaxacan cheese
There was a bit too much going on for me here. The fish of course was on point, and the contrasting thrusts of salty, sweet, creamy, tart actually worked with each other, but the combination of that and the hamachi tended to over shadow the latter.

charred avocado [$16.00] | dungeness crab, almond sponge, smoked oil
This was another tricky, yet effective dish, with the sweetness and brine of the crab beautifully matched with the contrasting forces of astringent char and creamy lushness in the avocado. I really appreciated the light, almost ethereal quality of the sponge, too, which served as a moderating element in the course.

la quercia berkshire ham [$16.00] | beets, yogurt, nutmeg oil
Next was quite possibly the coolest presentation of sliced ham I'd ever encountered. Taken in isolation, the La Quercia was exactly what it should be: slick, fatty, nutty, and oh-so tasty. However, combining it with the creaminess of yogurt and sweetness of beets resulted in some pretty amazing flavor profiles that just made perfect sense.

beef tartare [$15.00] | hearts of palm, sea bean chimichurri, horseradish, rye
The beef tartar was a bit of an improvement over the previous version of the dish I'd tried. Texturally, the meat was flawless, and I liked the countervailing levity and intensity brought on by the hearts of palm and sea bean combo. However, the crux was that horseradish, which really did a fantastic job in providing a blast of heat that just tied everything together in stellar fashion. Lovely crunch and counter from those rye chips, too.

tequila

tequila [$14.00] | sherry, pineapple, orgeat, lime, mole
vodka [$14.00] | watermelon, aloe vera, gentian, lemon, sweet tart rim
I rather fancied the tequila cocktail, with its wonderful sweet spice from the orgeat-mole combo that really formed a unified front with the spirit. And the vodka? I swear it tasted of Sour Patch Kids, not necessarily a bad thing mind you.

duck rillette [$14.00] | charred leeks, kumquats, charcoal waffle
Duck rillettes came in an untraditional presentation, but the flavor was there in spades. The depth of the duck took center stage, faultlessly paired with the smoky savor of those leeks, all while the kumquats gave up a hint of tartness. I liked the "hat" here too, which was key in providing a modicum of texture to the course, along with additional complexity of flavor.

corn

corn [$12.00] | housemade doritos, nori, green onion
Here was a fun, novel preparation of corn. Its sweetness was keenly displayed, yet at the same time, expertly tempered by the green onion. It would've been tasty enough as-is, but the incorporation of "Doritos" is what made the dish, with the chips adding a wonderful crunch and savor to things.

potato charcoal [$10.00] | housemade sour cream, black vinegar
You could almost call this a throwback to the papas arrugadas from Voltaggio's days at The Bazaar. Potatoes arrived pitch black and wonderfully salty, a great complement to the dab of sour cream in the bowl. However, what made this really special was the included spray bottle of black vinegar, which imparted a crucial piquancy to the taters that really made the dish work.

monterey squid [$14.00] | coconut-onion soubise, chanterelles, miso
Squid was deftly prepared, coming out supple and springy to the bite, with a delicate flavor that was augmented by the intensity of the mushrooms and miso here, all while the onion gave us a bit of countervailing astringency over a base of subtle sweetness.

white whiskey [$12.00] | popcorn, cornmilk, lemon, liquorice bitters
aquavit [$13.00] | grüner veltliner, chamomile, honey, orange oil, bee pollen
white rum [$14.00] | banana, brown butter, curacao, lime
Our final round of cocktails was a keeper as well. The white whiskey conveyed a strong notion of booziness, set against the sweet and tangy notes present while the liquorice-laced foam served to moderate the drink. On the other hand, the aquavit was much more subtle, with a floral, soft sweetness that melded wonderfully with the spiciness inherent in the spirit. Finally, we had the white rum, which I found a little tropical-tasting in nature, yet light and easy-drinking, with a smart component in the form of that brown butter.

soft shell crab [$19.00] | sea bun, miso mayo
During his stint at The Dining Room, Voltaggio put out the best version of soft shell crab I've had. Here, he shows his facility with the ingredient once more. The SSC was spot on--crispy and just bursting with briny goodness, with the miso mayo adding even more depth and complexity to the crustacean. I loved the levity imparted by the veggies here too, as well as how gnarly that bread looked.

octopus

octopus [$22.00] | ink. shells, young fennel, pimenton
Voltaggio has always had a way with octopus, and this dish was no exception. The octopod came out delightfully supple, with a lovely char and a savoriness to it that worked alongside the pleasantly firm shell pasta and zesty fennel, while the pimenton added a tinge of warmth to the dish.

halibut

halibut [$34.00] | liquid falafel, greek yogurt, sumac onions
Halibut came expertly cooked--mild, firm, and flaky, with a nice tanginess imparted by the sumac here. My favorite part, though, was that liquid falafel, which served as an excellent exclamation point to the course.

egg yolk gnocchi [$15.00] | mushroom brown butter, hen of the woods
Gnocchi were creamy, rich, liquid-y, and yes, a bit eggy, a luxurious pasta that was rightly heightened by the in-your-face earthiness of the mushrooms.

lollipop kale [$14.00] | crème fraiche, pig ears, togarashi
Next was a possible variation on the ubiquitous kale salad that was certainly one of the highlights of the dinner. The bright, verdant bitterness of the veggie was proudly conveyed, yet offset masterfully by the saltiness of those pig ears, all while the crème fraîche-laced broth contributed an enveloping richness that really brought all the elements together utterly cohesively.

lamb neck [$16.00] | fried egg, yogurt curd, potato, wild herbs
Braised lamb neck was exactly what you'd want: unabashedly, falling-apart tender, with deep, dark, ovine flavors. The meat was satisfying alone, but the crunchy "basket" and herbs were what really made it shine. And the runny egg? It pretty much makes everything better. Yum.

branzino [$33.00] | roasted cauliflower, caper, fermented grapes
Branzino was pretty divine, delicate in body, with a wonderfully saline relish and delightfully crisp, savory skin. Cauliflower served as a fitting accompaniment, but the combination of caper and grape veered toward overly piquant, stealing some of the attention away from the fish unfortunately.

lamb belly [$21.00] | salsify, mushroom hay, garlic ricotta
Time for more lamb, this time the vaunted belly. It came out luxurious and fatty (but not overly so), with a whisper of smokiness to it that paired swimmingly with the mushroom. Salsify served to balance out some of the heft of the meat, and there was even a bit of a citrus-y overtone in the dish that I liked.

heritage pork [$26.00] | cranberry beans, lardo, blackberry vinegar
The pork was a winner, coming out soft and succulent, with a delectable porcine relish to it that was further intensified by the veil of lardo draped on top. Beans, meanwhile, served to ground the dish, and I quite appreciated the sweetish tang of that vinegar as well.

1996 Dom Perignon Oenotheque

At this point, we popped a bottle of 1996 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque that one of my dining companions had graciously shared. This was, of course, the late-disgorged version of DP, and was very young tasting: tightly wound and fresh, with plenty of tart, lemon-y notes to it, along with a lively acidity and interesting saltiness even. This one should develop nicely.

beef cheeks [$25.00] | turnips, onion caramel, beef threads
Beef cheeks were downright tender, gelatinous even, and chock full of bovine goodness. They were actually quite heavy taken alone, so the turnips were key in imparting a modicum of levity to the dish. Lovely crunch here from the tangles of beef threads, too.

beef short rib [$30.00] | radish noodles, puffed tendon, pho broth
The savories concluded with a superb rendition of pho. The meat itself verged on decadent, with a fantastic beefiness to it and a wonderful crust. It blended both sweet and savory flavors in a mouthwatering package that paired in commendable fashion with the aromatics of the herbs here, all while the radish contributed a counterbalancing crunch and lightness to the fray. The included tendon chips were great fun as well.

elderflower [$10.00] | greek yogurt, citrus confetti, hibiscus curd
You could almost think of our first dessert as an elevated version of shaved ice. It was completely refreshing and light, with a fantastic blend of fruity, floral flavors accented by the tanginess of that yogurt. Very nice.

mountain yam [$12.00] | caramelized white chocolate, popcorn, coconut
Yamaimo is well known for its mucilaginous consistency, and here that texture was proudly displayed against a backdrop of multifaceted sweetness, the caramel notes being particularly apparent. Quite cool.

apple

apple [$10.00] | caramel, walnut, burnt wood semifreddo
I think this is probably the only item on the menu that's been here since day one, and there's a good reason for that. The dessert was as marvelous as ever, with the apple melding beautifully with the caramel while the walnut and semifreddo added opposing smoky and nutty notes to the mix. A masterful amalgam of disparate tastes and textures.

chocolate [$11.00] | coffee cake, chicory, raw milk, cream cheese frost
Last up was Ink's take on the requisite chocolate dessert, this one deftly balancing out its richness with contrasting hits of coffee, mint, and bitter notes, with the cream cheese contributing an enveloping lushness to the course.

fernet

fernet | branca, fernet vallet, vanilla, cherry heering, cola cream
Finally, we had mini versions of the fernet cocktail, an explosion of herbal, woody, minty flavors bound by the soft sweetness of vanilla, cherry, and cola. Quite delicious actually, and a fitting close to the meal.

It's been a while, but the restaurant is going as strong as ever. Initially, a lot of people probably dismissed Voltaggio as a serious chef, but I think by this point--almost two years in--he's proven himself. This place is legit, and there's even more maturity in the cooking here now, especially with the very capable Cole Dickinson at the helm as Chef de Cuisine. Ink has become sort of a quintessential LA restaurant, and I'm really looking forward to seeing how the place evolves.

Plate by Plate 2013
214 S Main St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
www.platebyplate.org/la/
Sat 08/03/2013, 06:00p-10:00p

This past Saturday, August 3rd, Project by Project hosted its 11th annual Plate by Plate tasting benefit at the beautiful Vibiana cathedral in the heart of Downtown. For the uninitiated, Project by Project is a nationwide non-profit focused on issues relating to the Asian-American community. Each year, the group chooses a particular theme to concentrate on--whether it be health, education, or the arts--and partners with a charitable organization in that space. 2013's partner is East West Players, the country's premier Asian-American theater troupe. As always, the Plate by Plate showcased the culinary chops of some of the City's most popular and up-and-coming eateries, all washed down by unlimited, free flowing booze of all varieties. And of course, I'm continuing on as PbP's Manager of Restaurant Relations, my third year in the role.

Left: Former PbP legal counsel Annie Lin running the show at the check-in table.
Right: Marketing Team members Eve Yen and Alison Ma, with Manager of Public Relations Mayly Tao (of DKronuts fame).

Risa Abarientos, Marian Bacol-Uba

Left: Director of Events Risa Abarientos, alongside President Marian Bacol-Uba.
Right: Bacardi Portfolio Manager Jaymee Mandeville and colleague.

Teresa Brown, Emely Cubias, Unknown

The Raymond, helmed by Tim Guiltinan (from Leatherby's down in OC), kicked things off with a Bonito Cured Sirloin, Jalapeno Salsa & Pitchfork Dressing along with Cantaloupe Ice Cream, Raspberry Streusel for dessert. Also present were Special Event Managers Teresa Brown and Emely Cubias.

Coincidentally, the Rare Beef Salad from Chef Perry Cheung's Phorage was a similar dish. That's Partner Jesse Duron in the suit there, who also happens to be the GM over at Hamasaku.

Katie Buntsma, Teresa Brown

Walter Manzke, Neal Fraser, Michael Something?

Left: The Raymond's Teresa Brown again, with eventual Instagram contest winner Katie Buntsma.
Right: Walter Manzke and Neal Fraser in the mix.

Johneric Concordia, Christine Araquel-Concordia

Johneric Concordia, Christine Araquel-Concordia

Mama Leah's Coconut Beef & Rice / Ann's Cornbread Bibingka

The Park's Finest brought some Filipino flavor with Mama Leah's Coconut Beef & Rice and Ann's Cornbread Bibingka. Rockin' the shades is Co-Founder & BBQist Johneric Concordia, along with Christine Araquel-Concordia.

Lazy Ox Canteen had their Octopus Curry with Ratatouille and Lazy Ox Hand Whipped Rice Pudding. Chef Hiroyuki Fujita (formerly of Fat Spoon) is working there now, and was joined by Assistant Manager Shana Dysert.

Wes Zelio, Verite Mazzola, Unknown

Taberna Arros y Vi, Michael Cardenas' newest project, was repped by Executive Chef Verite Mazzola and GM Wes Zelio. What did they serve? Some dainty Shrimp Gambas.

Black Sesame Panna Cotta with Green Tea Lemon Latte Cookies

Singaporean Chili Crab Gumbo & Buttermilk Beer Beignet

Starry Kitchen's Nguyen Tran was without his Kitchen Ninja tonight, but still managed a hearty dish of Singaporean Chili Crab Gumbo & Buttermilk Beer Beignet, with Black Sesame Panna Cotta with Green Tea Lemon Latte Cookies for dessert.

Eden Tol, Kayla Vu, and EWP

Director of Partner Outreach Eden Tol and Manager of Campaign Partner Kayla Vu with representatives from East West Players.

Miles Thompson, Derrick De Jesus, Unknown, Charles Kelly

Miles Thompson, Derrick De Jesus, Unknown, Charles Kelly

German Butterball Potato Chip, Coconut-White Soy Marinated Salmon Roe, Yuzu Cream

Bill DiDonna and Charles Kelly's ambitious Echo Park eatery Allumette gave out tasty little bites in the form of a German Butterball Potato Chip, Coconut-White Soy Marinated Salmon Roe, Yuzu Cream. Interestingly, Chef Miles Thompson was joined tonight by Derrick De Jesus, whom we last saw over at Alma.

Rivera's Columbian Chocolate Torte with Habaneros and Citricos was quite a sight to behold.

Yoya Takahashi, Wonny Lee

Pork Belly Handroll with Gochujang Moromiso

From Hamasaku, Executive Chef Wonny Lee and Executive Sushi Chef Yoya Takahashi joined forces to produce a Pork Belly Handroll with Gochujang Moromiso.

Unknown, Nadav Bashan, Romy Bashan, Unknown

Bashan, meanwhile, gave us a delightful nibble of Sword Tip Squid, Red Pepper Chutney, Mango.

Eleanor Lem, Jason Ho, Sunny Chiou

Left: National Director of Operations & Secretary Eleanor Lem with National Leadership Development Director Jason Ho and PbP NY Director of Finance Sunny Chiou.
Right: President Marian Bacol-Uba shows off a golden plate signed by all the restaurants, the prize for the winner of the PbP Instagram competition (attendees were encouraged to post photos with the hashtag #playwithfoodla).

Neal Fraser, Unknown

Dungeness Crab Salad with Curried Cauliflower and Micro Shiso

Chef Neal Fraser (whom you may recognize from the current season of Top Chef Masters) is opening up Redbird at Vibiana early next year, and gave us a tantalizing preview with his Dungeness Crab Salad with Curried Cauliflower and Micro Shiso.

Vanilla Curd, Strawberry, Pistachio, Balsamic

Joining Fraser in the VIP was Kali Dining's Kevin Meehan, who produced a one-two punch of Dungeness Crab, Avocado, Tomato, Cilantro and Vanilla Curd, Strawberry, Pistachio, Balsamic.

Left: Director of Volunteer Management Yulree Chun taking charge.
Right: Former PbP LA member Jennifer Chen is now Manager of Team and Leadership Development up in San Francisco.

Thai sensation Jet Tila gave us a hearty Khao Soi, though unfortunately I managed to miss snapping a photo of the Chef. Tila, of course, just opened up Kuma Snow Cream in Las Vegas.

Brownie

Unknown, Unknown, Andre Guerrero, Jan Purdy

The Oinkster (Andre Guerrero, Jan Purdy) had a very substantial Hand Cut House Made Pastrami Sandwich, followed up by brownies.

Risa Abarientos, Sarah Mendoza

Left: Director of Events Risa Abarientos and Events Team member Sarah Mendoza.
Right: Eric Tung brought a much more attractive date than he did last year in the form of Melissa Lee.

Downtown Italian hotspot Bestia had Grilled Beef Tongue, Green Garbanzo Bean Puree & Pickled Eggplant & Salsa Verde. Chef Ori Menashe, meanwhile, was looking as smoldering as ever.

Madagascar Vanilla Bean Custard, Cognac infused Preserved Peaches, Hazelnut Crumble

Madagascar Vanilla Bean Custard, Cognac infused Preserved Peaches, Hazelnut Crumble

Summer Tomato Salad, Arugula Pesto, Fresh Burrata, Smoked Almonds, House-Made Bread

Unknown, Kaitlin Leard, Unknown, Jeff Mahin

Stella Barra Pizzeria had Chef/Partner Jeff Mahin (whom you may recognize from The Taste) and Special Events and Catering Manager Kaitlin Leard on hand for their duet of Summer Tomato Salad, Arugula Pesto, Fresh Burrata, Smoked Almonds, House-Made Bread and Madagascar Vanilla Bean Custard, Cognac infused Preserved Peaches, Hazelnut Crumble.

Unknown, Unknown, Unknown, Bobby Caravella

Unknown, Unknown, Unknown, Bobby Caravella

Headed by GM Bobby Caravella, Saddle Peak Lodge served up Duck Mousse, Brandied Cherries, Cornichons atop toast.

LAMILL Coffee Organic Black Onyx Blend, Cream & Sugar, Condensed Milk, Raspberries, Espresso Beans

Fluff Ice offered two variations of its shaved ice: the LAMILL Coffee Organic Black Onyx Blend and a loose-leaf steeped Thai Tea Fluff, both topped off with Cream & Sugar and Condensed Milk.

DJ Shy

Left:DJ Shy kept us going throughout the evening.
Right: Props to Patina for not being shy about busting out the liquid nitrogen canisters.

Unknown, Unknown, Seakyeong Kim

House Made Mini Korean-BBQ Sausage Rolls, Jalapeno Potato Roll, Caramelized Onion, Wasabi Aioli, Kimchi Sauerkraut

Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale's (Executive Chef Seakyeong Kim) was the lone Orange County restaurant at the event, but that didn't stop them from plating hefty House Made Mini Korean-BBQ Sausage Rolls, Jalapeno Potato Roll, Caramelized Onion, Wasabi Aioli, Kimchi Sauerkraut. I really would like to get some more OC representation going, but what else is worthwhile down there? And yes, I did ask Playground (they ended up donating to the silent auction).

Dessert slanger Ramekin had perhaps the widest array of treats for us tonight: a Key Lime Tart with Whipped Cream, Nectarine Tart, Chocolate Chip & Oatmeal Raisin Cookies, three sorbets (Ambrosia Melon, Blueberry, Tangelo), and even more ice creams (Banana Choco Chip, Chocolate, Earl Grey, Green Tea, Jasmine Green Tea, Vanilla). Note that Chef Jason Park has just opened up Maru in West LA as well.

Charles Olalia, Unknown

Tamarind Braised Lamb Shoulder, Feuille De Bric, Whipped Yogurt, Little Gem Lettuce

Downtown LA grande damePatina was on hand with Chef Charles Olalia's signature Tamarind Braised Lamb Shoulder, Feuille De Bric, Whipped Yogurt, Little Gem Lettuce, arguably the schmanciest dish of the night.

Unknown, Carlos Enriquez, Unknown, Unknown

Next door, Top Chef: Just Desserts finalist Carlos Enriquez and Patina Pastry made waves with their modernist trio of Nitro Cotton Candy (probably the most oft referenced dish of the night), Coconut-Mango-Passion Fruit Squeeze Pop, and reimagined black forest cake.

Stephane Bombet, Ricardo Zarate

Left: Two thumbs up from the dynamic duo of Stephane Bombet and Ricardo Zarate.
Right: Director of Marketing Aliyah Wong, Director of Fundraising Sunny Chung, Marketing Team member Alison Ma.

Heading outdoors, we see Executive Chef Byron Freeze and Circa's Tunisian Chili Marinated Prawn.

Unknown

Micheladas were the just what the doctor ordered from Guelaguetza.

Devon Espinosa, Bill Chait, Zoe Chait, Julie Mills, Tanya Holt

Left: Devon Espinosa with Bill Chait's entourage: Zoe Chait, Julie Mills, Tanya Holt.
Right:Mole queen Bricia Lopez, as ebullient and effervescent as ever.

Salade Paysanne Fraicheur, Farmers Market Tomatoes, Eggplant, Zucchini, Sweet Corn, Herb Vinaigrette

Tony Esnault is, of course, the latest chef to take over the kitchens at Yassmin Sarmadi's venerable Church & State, and presented a rather striking Salade Paysanne Fraicheur, Farmers Market Tomatoes, Eggplant, Zucchini, Sweet Corn, Herb Vinaigrette. Note that the Chef is also planning on opening up a new restaurant called Spring, located on Spring Street, next Spring.

Unknown, Unknown

Lil' Osaka Ball, Japanese Curry Ground Kalbi and Potato Rice Ball served with a Shoga Aioli

Seoul Sausage Co cornered the ball market tonight (apologies to Starry Kitchen) with their Lil' Osaka Ball, Japanese Curry Ground Kalbi and Potato Rice Ball served with a Shoga Aioli. Badass.

Left:MasterChef Season 3 finalist Felix Fang. I was really rooting for her to win the whole thing.
Right: Artist William Zin enthralled us with a live chalk art demo.

I believe Star King BBQ is the first KBBQ joint to make an appearance at Plate by Plate, and owner Jackie Yoo had both an Acorn Jelly Salad and Sweet Potatoes Noodles with Veggies to go along with her Piedmontese Marinated Short Rib.

Sang Yoon, Ted Hopson, Unknown

Hawaiian Red Prawn & Tea Leaf Salad, Chana Dal, Sesame, Marcona Almonds, Peanuts, Crispy Prawn Head, Chile Aioli

More Top Chef Masters love came in the form of Lukshon. Sang Yoon and Ted Hopson presented a Hawaiian Red Prawn & Tea Leaf Salad, Chana Dal, Sesame, Marcona Almonds, Peanuts, Crispy Prawn Head, Chile Aioli, which just so happens to be the same dish that gave team Lukshon the win on last week's episode (and which I also tried during my last dinner at the restaurant). Very cool.

Left: Matt Biancaniello, with his trademark basket of farmers market produce.
Right: I don't know how this guy managed to steal my name tag.

Restaurant Row newcomer Scratch|Bar is already making a name for itself, and tonight Chef Phillip Frankland Lee and Pastry Chef Margarita Lee (can you tell she's a former model?) prepared one of their signature bites: Pork Belly & Raw Oyster.

Ricardo Zarate, Stephane Bombet, Buxom Unknown

Ricardo Zarate, Stephane Bombet, Buxom Unknown

Yuquitas: Stuffed Yucca Beignets, Manchego Cheese, Grated Parmesan & Serrano Sauce

Longstanding PbP participants Ricardo Zarate and Stephane Bombet repped their latest restaurant, Paiche, by giving attendees a taste of Yuquitas: Stuffed Yucca Beignets, Manchego Cheese, Grated Parmesan & Serrano Sauce.

Ketel One Bar

Carmel Mayol, Marian Bacol-Uba, Susan Hirasuna, James Kyson

Left: Sponsor Ketel One always does it up proper while running the main bar. A favorite of almost all the attendees.
Right: With Co-Masters of Ceremonies Susan Hirasuna (Fox 11 News) and James Kyson (Heroes).

Brie Cheese Tempura, Yellow Peach Marmalade

Executive Chef Atsushi Kenjo and Marketing & Creative Manager Cindy Choi were here for Chaya Downtown. Their dish? Brie Cheese Tempura, Yellow Peach Marmalade.

Sainegee Wong, Hostess

Chef de Cuisine Sainegee Wong from Andre Guerrero's Belgian beer cafe Little Bear opted for an appealing Fried Oyster Gougere Slider.

Yulree Chun, Walter Manzke

Director of Volunteer Management Yulree Chun gets chummy with Walter Manzke and David Féau.

Gavin Mills (Tavern, Wood & Vine) was here with wife Jessica Lauricella Mills to debut their new charcuterie project, Mills + Company. If the Chicken Liver Mousse and Country Pate were any indication, they're off to a good start.

Unknown, Unknown, Lily Chan-Marielle, David Feau

Unknown, Unknown, Lily Chan-Marielle, David Feau

Yellowtail Tuna, Compressed Watermelon, Yuzu Tobiko, Candied Wasabi, Ponzu Crème Fraiche

Lexington Social House won the "best dish" competition with their Yellowtail Tuna, Compressed Watermelon, Yuzu Tobiko, Candied Wasabi, Ponzu Crème Fraiche. And yes, that's none other than David Feau, who's consulting for the restaurant currently.

Viva La Art was on deck with live artwork demos from John Park and Hans Haveron.

Pho Ga

Chef Kimmy Tang's 9021pho had two types of its namesake soup available: Pho Ga (Chicken), and Pho Chay (Veggie & Tofu).

Margarita Manzke, Walter Manzke, Unknown

Margarita Manzke, Walter Manzke, Unknown

Last, but certainly not least, were Walter and Margarita Manzke with Petty Cash Taqueria. The Chef's Ceviche Negro was a dish that I really enjoyed during my last visit there. For those keeping count, Republique (in the old Campanile space) should be opening up in the coming months, so be on the lookout for that.

Left: The line on Main Street.
Right: Violet Kim from the K-Town reality show, with new beau Blair Tudas.

This year, we made a real effort to beef up the mixology portion of Plate by Plate, and thus organized a cocktail competition judged by Matt Biancaniello, Devon Espinosa, and Bacardi rep Jaymee Mandeville. The goal was to have three contestants create a cocktail on the fly that would best incorporate Bombay Sapphire East gin. Originally, we'd confirmed Deysi Alvarez (Paiche, Mo-Chica, Picca, Fraiche, Rivera), Dino Balocchi (Littlefork, Longman & Eagle in Chicago), and Brittini Rae Peterson (Goldie's, Ink, The Tar Pit, Fig & Olive, Soho House). However, none of the three competitors would end up actually competing. Dino dropped out the day before Plate by Plate for unknown reasons, but fortunately we quickly found Nate Oliver (Harvard & Stone, Ink, Church & State) to take his place. Then, Deysi fell sick and had to pull out while we were setting up for the event; thankfully, Brady Weise from 1886 (who was here to run the VIP bar) agreed to replace her. And finally, if that wasn't enough, Brittini Rae went AWOL, so Marcel Vigneron (yes, Marcel) had to step in at the last minute.

Cocktail Competition Judges

With everything finally in place, we were free to begin, albeit a bit behind schedule. First, the mandatory introductions.

Nate Oliver

The competitors get going; they only had 10 minutes to come up with their drink.

Marcel is the last to finish, while his fellow competitors look on in apparent consternation.

Gin Cocktails

Since judging was done blind, the drinks were rearranged in haphazard order before the judges tasted and rendered a verdict.

James Kyson, Susan Hirasuna, Brady Weise

James Kyson, Susan Hirasuna, Brady Weise

The winner, by unanimous decision, was Brady Weise and his concoction of Bombay Sapphire East gin, bianco vermouth, peach, lime, simple syrup, and various herbs, garnished with chamomile and heirloom tomato. For his efforts, he received a commemorative etched Plate by Plate trophy, a limited edition bottle of Bacardi 1909 rum, and a $50 Sugarfish gift card. In addition, all of the contestants and judges each received a $25 gift certificate to use at Bar Keeper in Silver Lake as a token of appreciation.

Marcel Vigneron, Nathaniel Oliver, Brady Weise, James Kyson, Jaymee Mandeville, Devon Espinosa

Marcel Vigneron, Nathaniel Oliver, Brady Weise, James Kyson, Jaymee Mandeville, Devon Espinosa

Left: President Marian Bacol-Uba and the new boyfriend.
Right:Eater LA Editor Kat Odell. And yes, I'll be watching Eat Drink Love.

Left: Fundraising Team member Clayton Tran: VIP area bouncer.
Right: VIP guests were also treated to a magician. Here, Eric Tung is utterly bewildered.

VIP Bar

This year, Plate by Plate turned up the wick in the VIP by having 1886 at The Raymond tend the VIP bar (using products donated by various participants, including Ketel One and Bacardi). This arrangement proved quite popular, with the cocktails coming out of here really taking things up a notch. I was particularly fond of their Maime Taylor (Dewar's Highlander Honey, Fresh Lime, Ginger, Angostura).

Jason Ho, Mary Zhang, Yatman Kwan

Left: PbP SF represent: National Leadership Development Director Jason Ho, Manager of Restaurant Relations Mary Zhang, Director of Events Yatman Kwan.
Right: Manager of Auction Donations Nami Han taking care of business in the silent auction area.

Susan Hirasuna, Margaret Lin, Sarah Mendoza

Susan Hirasuna, Margaret Lin, Sarah Mendoza

Left: MC Susan Hirasuna, with Margaret Lin and Events Team member Sarah Mendoza.
Right: Bill Chait, his daughter Zoe, and Tanya Holt lounging in the VIP.

Ray Warriner, Theresa Kiang

Left: Director of Operations Ray Warriner with Theresa Kiang.
Right: A word from Tim Dang, Artistic Director for East West Players.

JT Kim, Marian Bacol-Uba, Kayla Vu

Left: Project by Project National President JT Kim and PbP LA President Marian Bacol-Uba, with Outreach Team member Kayla Vu.
Right: Lily Yip (whom I first encountered at a dinner at Night+Market) and friend.

Left: Tuyet Nguyen, Phil Cheng, Elizabeth Yang, and friends.
Right: Marcel Vigneron and his latest squeeze.

Margaret Lin Eating Nitro Cotton Candy

Patina's nitro cotton candy proved to be quite popular for obvious reasons.

Left: Production Manager Vickie Chan regulating.
Right: Carmel Mayol and friends resting after a long night.

Oanh Nguyen, Kayla Vu, Unknown

Left: Oanh Nguyen, 2012 National Director of Events as well as Director of Events for 2011's event (and the person who initially introduced me to the organization), with Kayla Vu and friend.
Right: Oanh with Project by Project National Director Nirendran Kathirithamby.

Darin Louie Bidding

Left: None other than Darin Dines bidding (rather surreptitiously, seemingly) on a Bestia gift card. He would go on to win cards from both Bestia and The Royce.
Right: Speaking of Darin, that's Marcus Lo, the winner of his ticket giveaway, to the right, along with real estate maven Michael Hsu.

Sherwin Goo's Angels

Left: Plate by Plate mainstay Sherwin Goo (I first encountered him back at the 2010 event), with requisite ladies in tow.
Right: Former PbP Manager of Campaign Partner Relations Jackie Fung with former Manager of Leadership Development Emi Fukuoka.

Danny Li, Margaret Lin

Left: Manager of Beverages & Winery Relations Danny Li with Manager of Design (and fiancée) Margaret Lin.
Right: Starry Kitchen's Nguyen Tran mixing it up with Patina head toque Charles Olalia.

Left: Elizabeth Yang (whom I first met at Alma) seems to be having fun waiting in line for the always-popular photo booth, provided this year by Sutando.
Right: Yes, that's Marcel Vigneron, tongue out, a headstand, a gilded toilet, a fitting way to end this recap.

Plate by Plate Los Angeles

Previous Plate by Plate posts: 2012, 2011, 2010

Maru Restaurant
12400 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
310.820.7240
www.marusantamonica.com
Thu 08/08/2013, 08:15p-01:05a

Coming hot on the heels of his appearance at Plate by Plate, Matthew Biancaniello's latest project is entitled "Boozy Oysters," and, as the name implies, features alcoholic takes on everybody's favorite mollusk. The one-night-only affair was held at the new Santa Monica-adjacent Maru in collaboration with Maru's chef, Jason Park. Park, of course, is also the man behind Ramekin dessert shop in Los Feliz, and previously ran the original Maru in Valencia for 11 years (it closed in December).

Jason Park, Matthew Biancaniello

Here, we see Biancaniello and Park at a station set up at the end of the sushi bar.

The evening's Boozy Oysters menu featured eight different varieties of the alcoholic bivalves, all priced at $5 each, in addition to an always-tempting uni ice cream. Click for a larger version.

Raicilla [$5.00] | blueberry juice air, papalo oil and borage flowers
Our barrage of oysters began with Biancaniello's personal favorite. It was one of mine, too, with the boozy heft of the raicilla tempered by the sweet, tart blueberry, all while the combination of Bolivian coriander and borage added a cucumber-y, herb-y brightness to things.

Hatch Chile [$5.00] | infused Aloe Liqueur shooter with garlic flowers
The sole shooter of the bunch, this one brought together a Kumamoto with contrasting notes of tart, cool, and sweet, all of which integrated well with the oyster's inherent brine.

Wheatgrass Saint Germain [$5.00] | foam with Dolin Blanc infused Cape Gooseberries
Here, wheatgrass imparted a vegetal tanginess to the Kusshi that was moderated in part by the base of vermouth and the sweetness of St-Germain, though overall, this one didn't "click" as well as some of the others.

Laphroaig [$5.00] | with salmon eggs infused with sake, passion fruit and blood orange
This was another standout for me, with the smoky weight of the scotch melding well with the salinity of the ikura, while the fruit added just enough levity to the Beau Soleil.

Watermelon juice served as an effective, and delicious palate cleanser in between courses.

Holy Santa [$5.00] | infused Rose Cocchi American granite and Smith Cross Rum
Yet another favorite of ours featured Kumamoto and hoja santa, the aromatic, spicy nuances of the herb pairing beautifully with the sweet, floral flavors in the course, all leading to a lingering blast of brine on the close.

Suze

Suze [$5.00] | with habanero brittle
A Beau Soleil with Suze was pretty neat, with the softly bittersweet nature of the apéritif playing well with the salinity of the oyster, all while the habanero made itself known right at the end.

Wild Toyon berry [$5.00] | infused Cachaca with mouse melons and thai basil
Next, a Kumamoto arrived paired alongside the tart, acidic, bright flavors of Toyon berry and mouse melon, with the Thai basil adding an overarching aromatic component to the mix.

Campari

Campari [$5.00] | infused with Passion fruit and peach pits and cherry tomatoes
We finished strong with this Campari-infused Kusshi, the bittersweetness of the liqueur and peach pits making perfect sense with the saltiness of the oyster. And we can't forget the passion fruit either, which added a delightful sweetness that really brought everything together.

Eight oysters, even boozy ones, hardly make for a complete meal, so we continued on with dinner by ordering off of Maru's regular menu. Click for larger versions.

Ankimo Sashimi [$19.00] | Monk fish liver. Japanese foie gras.
The oft-referenced foie gras of the sea was prototypical for the ingredient--rich, silky, and yes, liver-y, with its heft classically counteracted by the combination of ponzu, negi, and momiji oroshi.

Cherry Tomato Salad [$13.00] | Cherry tomatoes w/ our own house made ricotta cheese, shiso pesto, & a sherry vinaigrette.
Moving on, the cherry tomato salad was sort of like a reworked Caprese, with the sweet, tart tomatoes balanced by the weight of the ricotta, all while the shiso pesto made for some more interesting flavors.

Sword Lettuce Salad [$13.00] | A long & thin lettuce w/ an Asian green goddess dressing & a pan roasted runny egg w/ prosciutto.
Here, the richness and salt of the ham-runny egg combo was certainly enjoyable, with its potency balanced by the green goddess and the bitterness of the lettuce.

Tomato & Cucumber Salad [$12.00] | Organic Japanese tomatoes & cucumbers w/ avocado tossed in a fire-roasted red bell pepper dressing.
Our final salad was pretty straightforward, the tart, succulent nature of tomatoes pairing well with the light crunch of cucumbers, while the greens added the requisite astringency to the dish.

Scallop & Risotto [$22.00] | Seared divers' scallops over a creamy oven roasted tomato risotto. Finished w/ a warm verjus-olive sauce.
Scallops came out perfectly cooked: supple, yet satisfying to the bite, with a nice sear and a tasty blend of sweet and saline flavors that made sense against the tartness of the accompanying risotto. I just wish that the rice were a bit firmer.

Curry Lamb [$29.00] | Colorado lamb loin roasted med-rare w/ crispy-shiitake rice & marinated onion w/ cilantro & a Japanese curry.
Lamb was tasty--not overtly gamy but with a satisfying depth to it, although the meat could've stood to be more tender. The Japanese curry component was quite intriguing here, adding an additional complexity to the dish that worked out surprisingly well. The key, though, was the lightness and acidity imparted by the cilantro-onion combo, while texturally, the nurungji-esque rice cake on the bottom was much appreciated.

Ommegang 'Rare Vos' Red Ale

Time for some beer. The Ommegang "Rare Vos" Red Ale [$8] was an apt pair to the steak, with a strong malty backbone and a dry, subtly fruity character to it.

Ribeye for Two [$65.00] | 42oz. USDA Prime grilled med-rare w/ fingerling potatoes in crème fraiche & tempura buna shiimeji.
This impressive looking steak arrived sweet and smoky, with a nice crust to it. Flavors were robust, but I would've liked the meat cooked to a rarer temperature, so that I could've better appreciated its inherent goodness. Potatoes served as a fitting counterpoint to the ribeye, though I found the tempura'd buna shimejis to be even more effective.

Fingerling Potatoes [$9.00] | Velvety organic potatoes w/ maple smoked bacon tossed w/ crème fraiche.
These potatoes, meanwhile, were more interesting, with a great hit of salt from the bacon and a subtle tang courtesy of the crème fraîche.

Uni Ice Cream [$9.00] | With sake and sweet corn kernels
At this point, the kitchen was running out of uni ice cream (unsurprisingly), so we quickly had our fill of the stuff, a collaborative effort between Park and Biancaniello. It really was something special though, with the smooth, lush ice cream doing a fantastic job in capturing the sweet, saline essence of sea urchin, all while the corn added an additional, counterbalancing sugary component to the fray.

The Lost Abbey 'Avant Garde'

We followed up the Rare Vos with The Lost Abbey "Avant Garde" [$20], done in the Bière de Garde style. This one was very bread-y, with a slight herbaceous tinge to it and some sweet, fruity components as well, overarched by just a trace of bitterness.

Pork Belly [$16.00] | Braised in sake & soy over garlic black kale w/ marinated shallots & roasted tomatoes.
Pork belly was fork-tender, and not overly fatty, with boatloads of deep, dark, sweet flavors. Meanwhile, the astringent shards of kale here served as a fitting temper to the meat, as did the tart, citrusy shallots up top.

Pork in Puff Pastry [$21.00] | Tender braised pork in puff pastry. Served w/ grilled asparagus & a soy reduction sauce.
Our last savory course was a riff on the traditional Beef Wellington, and one of the highlights of the meal. Braised pork was almost char siu-ish in nature, showing off a certain sweetness along with plenty of piggy goodness. The flaky, buttery crust was a perfect accompaniment to the meat, and I appreciated the levity and crunch of the asparagus spears here as well.

Passion Fruit Panna Cotta [$9.95] | Organic passion fruit over a velvety panna cotta surrounded by a guava bellini.
Moving on to desserts now, the panna cotta was one of the better ones I've tried, with the tartness of passion fruit working beautifully over the dish's lush, smooth, creamy base.

Chocolate Bread Pudding [$8.95] | An adult bread Pudding w/ Valrhona semi-sweet chocolate. Served w/ vanilla ice-cream. Baked to order.
The bread pudding made sense with its interplay of chocolate and vanilla ice cream flavors, but what made it unique was its texture, with all the crispy bits thrown in.

Melon Soup [$8.95] | Frozen ambrosia melon juice w/ a watermelon soup, strawberries, grapes, & blueberries.
The melon soup, meanwhile, was utterly refreshing and light, with the central mass of sugary melon juice melding well with the lighter, more subtle nuances at play.

Peach Tart [$9.95] | Reiger Farms Elegant Ladies baked w/ an almond cream & crème fraiche ice cream.
A peach tart lived up to expectations, its fruity, sugary heft working alongside the deceptively light crème fraîche commendably.

Peach / Berry Cobbler [$8.95] | Organically grown fruit baked to perfection & topped w/ our Tahitian Vanilla ice-cream. Baked to order.
Finally, a cobbler arrived hot (very hot, actually) and hearty, a mélange of batter and fruit interjected by the cool, silky smoothness of that ice cream.

Biancaniello's latest foray into non-cocktailian realms was largely a success. There were some inventive, well-thought-out flavor combinations going on with the oysters, and I liked how he was able to present boozy, creative interpretations of the bivalves without masking their inherent goodness and character. Biancaniello often refers to himself as a sort of "cocktail chef," and clearly this experiment was another step in that direction.

In addition, I was glad that I got to sample some of Maru's regular menu items as well. There's a sort of classic Franco-Japanese fusion thing going on here, and the results were generally effective. I think it's a fitting replacement for the old Sasabune, offering up sushi in addition to more "Western" fare. And speaking of that sushi, I'm a bit curious about it as well, because from what I saw, the nigiri here looked pretty legit, too.

Scratch|Bar Restaurant
111 N La Cienega Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211
310.289.8010
www.scratchbarla.com
Thu 08/15/2013, 08:30p-11:55p

Scratch|Bar Exterior

The newest denizen on Los Angeles's famous Restaurant Row is quite unlike any of its neighbors, eschewing the glitz of The Bazaar, the vastness of Lawry's, and the sheer hackwork that is The Stinking Rose. Instead, Chef/Owner Phillip Frankland Lee's curiously-named Scratch|Bar serves up some of the most inventive, creative cuisine La Cienega has ever seen, all in a cozy, unassuming setting. The place debuted on June 25th after a two week soft opening period, and has been garnering a loyal following ever since.

About the Chef: An LA native, Phillip Lee attended the Le Cordon Bleu program at the CSCA in Pasadena (where, apparently, he even won a scholarship contest put on by the National Honey Board). After graduating in 2009, he worked at Stefan's at LA Farm, and also staged at Providence. In February 2010, he started at Hatfield's, but would leave in December that year for Chicago. In the Windy City, Lee worked the line at L2O until February 2011, then apprenticed at Alinea and Blackbird before landing at The Park Grill, where he was Exec Sous.

Lee returned to SoCal in September 2011, launching Wolf Cuisine (a pricey tasting menu home delivery service) with partner Sylvain Allard. During this period, he also wrote a script called COOK: The Movie. Toward the end of 2012, Lee took the reins at D'Cache, a small Basque restaurant in Toluca Lake, but would leave soon thereafter to work on his own concept. The Chef debuted Scratch|Bar inside Santiago Garfunkel's Tiago Espresso Bar + Kitchen in May this year, but quickly outgrew the spot. As such, he partnered up with Darioush Danesh and moved into the Danesh's restaurant space, the former home of The Grill Pit, Restaurant 111, Tak, and the eponymous Darioush.

Chef Lee is joined here by Chef de Cuisine Joel David Miller (Cleo), Sous Chef Ryan Duval (D'Cache, Animal, wd~50), Pastry Chef-slash-actress-slash-model-slash-spouse-slash-business partner Margarita Lee (née Kallas), as well as Bar Manager Dave Fernie (Pour Vous, Harvard & Stone, Playa, Test Kitchen, La Descarga, Church & State).

The menu is divided into sections of increasing intensity, while reasonably-priced tasting menu options are also available (though the flagship 12-courser is still in work, pending completion of the kitchen-facing tasting bar). To drink, Davidson Fernie has put together a small cocktail list (mostly sake-based, due to the place's lack of a full liquor license), and you'll find a smattering of wines, beer, and even housemade sodas to boot. Click for larger versions.

Bangkok Dangerous [$13.00]
Speaking of those cocktails, we started with the Bangkok Dangerous, a concoction of nigori and junmai sakes, pineapple juice, ginger syrup, turmeric, cayenne, cardamom, and lemon juice that managed to be my favorite of the bunch. There was a blast of pineapple-y, citrus-y tartness on the attack that belied the sweet 'n' spicy overtones in the drink, while the heat of the cayenne really made itself known on a slow burning finish. Masterful.

Kale Chips [$3.00]
Chips of dehydrated kale were kissed with lemon and Parmesan, the bitterness of the vegetable expertly balanced by the tang of the citrus while the cheese added a smart base of savoriness to the course.

Honey Fried Olive Stuffed Olives [$5.00]
A plate of honey-battered and fried olives was fun--sweet at first, but with the piquancy of the fruit coming through toward the close. A great olive dish for all the olive haters.

Sourdough w/ Uni Olive Oil [$12.00]
A sea urchin-infused olive oil was divine, the lushness and brine of the roe really melding beautifully with the tangy, tart notes in the oil. Excellent when taken on top of the housemade bread (the product of a decades old starter I understand).

Supplies [$10.00]
In Memoriam [$10.00]
Next up for cocktails was the Supplies, made with nigori sake, pineapple, lime, and salt. This one could be thought of as a sake-based piña colada, a soft, fruity libation with just a bit of a kick. The In Memoriam, on the other hand, was like a riff on a sangria-calimocho-mulled wine combo, one made with Tempranillo, Coca-Cola, spiced apple, and other fruit. I found the drink utterly delicious: fun and easy-drinking, with a wonderful smoothness and hints of sweet, autumnal spice to it.

1/2 Dozen Oven Roasted Oysters [$18.00]
A half dozen (Kumai?) oysters arrived topped with a vividly-colored beet emulsion that reminded me of a similar preparation I'd had last year at The Amalur Project. It really worked though, with the subtle sweetness of the beet really moderating the inherent salinity of the mollusks.

Smoking Goat's Milk Cheese [$16.00]
Housemade two week-aged goat cheese came to the table ensconced in a glass terrine alongside charcoal-smoked Timothy hay. The chèvre was intensely smoky upon first taste, with the lushness and sweetness of the cheese only coming through toward the close. It was superb spread over the included bread, while the pickled veggies added a fantastic crunch and acidity that really brought everything together wonderfully.

Puffed Smelt [$5.00]
Here, in one of Scratch|Bar's most visually-arresting courses, smelt was dried then fried into "fossilized" rice cracker form. It was delightfully fishy and salty alone, and went laudably with the sugary tartness of the beet mustard and bone marrow smear on the bottom.

Bone Marrow Box [$5.00]
Next was a delightful mélange of bone marrow, shimeji, and onion, all encased in sourdough. The richness of the marrow formed the base to the course, with the tanginess of the mushroom making for a great counterbalance, all while a slight trace of heat underscored the entire bite. Tasty.

Pork Belly & Raw Oyster [$5.00]
The first time I'd had pork belly and oyster together was at Corey Lee's phenomenal Benu, but this version was probably better. The crux here was the undeniably smart combo of belly and Kumai, which really conveyed two facets of salinity that play off each other in stellar fashion, while texturally, the oyster's soft, slick consistency melded with the fattiness inherent in the pork. If that wasn't enough, the coconut-chamomile foam really topped things off gorgeously with its light, floral, countervailing character. This is quickly becoming Scratch|Bar's signature dish, and it's easy to see why.

Cobbler

Cobbler [$11.00]
Hero Heat-o [$10.00]
Our last round of cocktails brought us the Cobbler, which was described by our server as a sherry-based Old Fashioned, one composed of Amontillado, curaçao, maraschino, bitters, and orange. It was the booziest of the bunch, with the wine really showing through, yet deftly tempered by the delectably bittersweet flavors present. We also had the Hero Heat-o, comprising junmai sake, salt, lime, cane syrup, and cayenne. This one was likened to a sake-based daiquiri, a tart, balanced, and somewhat spicy drink that integrated the nihonshu nicely.

Shaved Vegetable Salad [$9.00]
The requisite salad dish was well played, a multifaceted presentation of sundry veggies that combined sweet, tart, and bitter nuances commendably under a veil of overarching nutty savor.

Blackened Cauliflower [$10.00]
The roasted cauliflower was another winner, with four different varieties joined by cauliflower chips, a cauliflower purée, red onions, and pistachios. It was great to experience the different faces of the vegetable, its mild, yet always satisfying relish joined by disparate smoky, tangy, and nutty flavors. Lovely textures, too.

Trio of Raw(ish) Salmon Belly [$13.00]
Next came six rosettes of salmon in various forms, all set in a dashi-inspired kombu-bonito broth that seemed to intensify the experience. Going right to left, we started with a raw preparation with lemon, sea beans, and green tea salt, the various accoutrements making perfect sense with the fattiness inherent in the belly. Number two was a blueberry-infused version, which had a tart, sugary thrust that worked surprisingly well with the fish. Last up was my favorite, a torched presentation that showed off a simply delectable char to it.

Cured Pig's Head [$11.00]
Lee's two week-cured pig head was somewhat like a fromage de tête in essence, gritty and loaded with a pork-y goodness that went just swimmingly against the piquant streaks of beet mustard on the plate, with the whole dish enveloped by just a whisper of sugary spice.

Chicken Livers & Sweet Corn Agnolotti [$14.00]
I definitely enjoy my chicken liver, but this was even a bit much for me. The dish was intense, the heady, earthy smack of the liver really taking center stage, with the agnolotti adding an apparent sweetness to the fray while the greens tried their best to impart some levity. Approach this one carefully.

With the cocktails all drunk up, went opted for a bottle of bubbly in the form of the Mont Marcal Brut Reserva (Spain) [$48]. It was a pretty prototypical Cava, a tart, acidic, citrus-y wine with a light backbone of yeastiness and just a smidge of minerality.

Sea Urchin & Crispy Pork Belly Cobb [$17.00]
The so-called Cobb salad was almost nothing like a Cobb salad (coming out more like a bibimbap), which is probably a good thing. Rice was substituted for lettuce, and in place of the traditional toppings were avocado purée, uni, ikura, and pork belly. We opted to mix everything together and the resultant mass was really quite neat, with the rice serving as a stage on top of which the various elements could really mesh. I especially appreciated the pork, which added wonderfully salty, crunchy bits to the mix that really drew your attention.

Potted King Crab [$18.00]
You could almost think of this next dish as the best seafood salad you've ever had. It was one of my favorites of the night to be sure, with the cool, sweet crab forming a great base to the dish that really allowed the other ingredients to sing. There was a lot going on, and I was especially fond of the cucumber-y zing of the borage. Fantastic textures here too, with the crunchy "crust" of the course being particularly appealing.

Warm Hamachi w/ Sweetbreads & Grapefruit [$15.00]
Hamachi was quite fetching, arriving to the table supple and fatty, its brine tempered by the combination of artichoke and the astringent Bloomsdale spinach. Sweetbreads, meanwhile, were poached in white wine and imparted a subtle weightiness to the dish that was almost easy to miss.

Charred Octopus Pasta [$16.00]
I'm a sucker for octopus, but this dish fell a bit short. What we had was a chermoula-charred octopus set in confit Yukon gold potato "noodles," with parsley, tomatoes, red onion, lemon, and a kalamata olive cream. My issue was that the octopus verged on tough, with a somewhat rubbery quality that wasn't terribly appealing. That was a shame, as its flavor was on point, with a good depth and sweet spice to it that paired well with the Mediterranean-inflected forces present. I even liked the noodles as well, which had a great snap and crunch to them.

Dry Aged Hanger Steak [$21.00]
At this point, we moved on to the larger courses. First up was the hanger steak, which managed to be pretty tender given the cut, and, of course, showed off plenty of bovine goodness. Interestingly, there was an undercurrent of sweet spice here that I couldn't quite put my finger on.

A Box Full of Squid [$17.00]
The name of this dish really needs to be changed to squid in a box for obvious reasons. What was interesting here was how the textures of shrooms and squid mimicked each other, giving us a sense of simultaneously supple and snappy consistencies. Unfortunately, I found the potato "box" overly salty, while the tartness of the tomatoes as well as the charred eggplant tended to mask the main ingredients.

Roasted Salmon Salad [$16.00]
Lee's kale salad was a refreshing take on the seemingly ubiquitous dish, and was a winner in my book. The briny notes from the fish were proudly conveyed here, but effectively tempered by the bitterness of the kale and the otherwise bright, nutty flavors at play. Lovely crunch from the crispy salmon skin, too.

A Box Full of Vegetables [$15.00]
Surprisingly, the veg in a box (try saying that three times fast) was more effective than the cephalopod version above. Here, I appreciated how the veggies were each distinct in texture and flavor, yet flowed together seamlessly, bound by an almost Asian-y savoriness that overarched the dish.

Boneless Skinless Chicken Breast [$18.00]
Here, in our last savory course, the Chef showed us what he could do with the most prosaic of ingredients. In fact, one of my dining companions even deemed this the best chicken breast he'd ever had. The breast was clearly the star of the show, coming out juicy and just teeming with chicken-y goodness. I really enjoyed it alone, but the spinach served as a nice counterweight to the bird, which also had a spicy complexity to it from what I believe was cayenne.

Scratch Cola & Scratch Ginger Brew

To go with dessert, we ordered two of the restaurant's housemade sodas. The Scratch Cola [$4] was pretty fantastic, with an endearing sweet-spicy quality to it that was reminiscent of a Coke-cream soda-root beer mash-up. The Scratch Ginger Brew [$4], meanwhile, was almost as good, with an utterly refreshing, bright, bracing, true-to-life ginger-y relish that reminded me of a similar drink I'd had at Alma.

Cream of Orange Soup [$9.00]
Lee's cream of orange soup was pretty neat, the "hot OJ" melding nicely with the savory, almost garlicky nuances at play. Non-traditional, and almost cerebral in nature.

Dark Chocolate & Cayenne Candy Bar [$9.00]
We ended with a dark chocolate ganache, one paired with lemon curd, salted whipped cream, EVOO-laced chia seeds, cayenne, mint, and sugar cookie crumbles. This one was more approachable, but still complex, with a lot of moving parts that somehow came together to make a cohesive whole. The chocolate was the hero here, but had a strong cast of supporting players.

Chef Lee likens his cooking to "a new approach to an old sport," and that's sort of a fitting description to the food here, which verges on a combination of fun, whimsical, and modern, with some really unexpected, multilayered flavor combinations and unique presentations to boot. There's a certain hunger and verve to the cooking here that's particularly refreshing, especially given the environs. Scratch|Bar's probably the most ambitious cooking Restaurant Row has seen in a while, and I really hope it can stick around longer than some of its predecessors (I'm looking at you, Tak).

Opus Sushi Restaurant
1027 S Baldwin Ave, Arcadia, CA 91007
626.447.1027
Fri 08/16/2013, 08:15p-11:35p

Opus Sushi Exterior

If being a Korean-owned sushi place is a bad sign, then surely being a Chinese-owned sushi place is even worse. That's some sound logic, but those predispositions were challenged in spectacular fashion last year when I experienced a superb dinner at Ootoro in Walnut. With that meal fresh in memory, I took a gamble on Opus Sushi, which just opened last October in the space formerly occupied by Liang's Village Cuisine, and before that, Maru, another Japanese restaurant (no relation to the new Maru in West LA).

2011 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux

2011 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux

The corkage here is a reasonable $12 per bottle, though apparently the number of bottles they actually charge you for can vary wildly (we were charged for six of the nine bottles, though I've heard they've charged a flat $12 in the past, too). In any case, since Charlie Fu was with us, there was of course going to be Burgundy aplenty. First to the gate was the 2011 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux, one of my favorites of the night. I found it wonderfully light, smooth, almost silky, with soft lemon-y notes and an apparent, but not domineering backbone of minerality. Tasty stuff.

Shimasuzuki 'Ceviche'

1: Shimasuzuki "Ceviche"
Billed as a sort of "Japanese style ceviche," what we had here was a martini glass of striped bass, ikura, caviar, and cucumber. The fish itself was pretty much flawless, supple, yet satisfying to the bite, with a nice depth to it. I really appreciated the additional punch imparted by the two types of roe as well, and the veggies provided a fitting lightness and crunch to the course. One nit: the fish-to-cucumber ratio was a bit off, as there was far more of the latter than needed.

One Chablis deserves another, specifically the 2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cote de Bouguerots. This one didn't quite reach the lofty levels of the former for me, but was enjoyable nonetheless. I found it tighter, more mineral driven and grassy, with more acidity to it. Overall, a bit more contemplative, austere even.

2: Amaebi/Uni/Kaki/Hamaguri Sashimi
Next up was a quartet of shellfish sashimi. I tried the Kumamoto first, and appreciated its trademark brine and how it paired with the tanginess of the tobiko (or was it masago?). The sweet shrimp (which was still moving, mind you), meanwhile, was spot on, crisp and snappy, with a clean taste that went superbly with a pinch of salt and a squirt of lemon. Sea urchin was also on point, with its sweetness nicely matched with the salty oyster hidden underneath. Finally, we had the cherrystone clam, the biggest surprise of the group. I really enjoyed it, particularly its firm, meaty, yet yielding consistency, and appreciated how the sweetness of the bivalve matched the subtly spicy tones present.

Moving on now to a red Burg, we had here the 2008 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays. It was a nice change of pace: bright, vivacious, and peppery on the nose, showing off more of an apparent berry character joined by a subtle undercurrent of earthy, herby, and meaty nuances. A bit tannic and spicy on the back end, too.

3: Madai/Kinmedai/Akamutsu Sushi
The first nigirizushi of the night brought us three relatively rare specimens. I went with the madai (red sea bream) to begin, and found it silky, supple, and delicate in flavor, with a fantastic accompaniment in the form of that piquant yuzukosho. The splendid alfonsino was even better, with its tinge of smoky char that went along with the tart, tangy notes present. Last up was the akamutsu, which I'd had only twice before at Shunka and Bar Masa. This was another winner (my favorite of the bunch), with an even more apparent char to it to go along with the richer, more substantial weight of the fish.

1974 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve

Our next wine was a gift from a seemingly inebriated old Chinese guy sitting next to us at the bar (they really do give the best gifts). For me, this 1974 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve was past its prime, though still drinkable. Think musty, savory, herb-y, and smoky, with lots of faded fruit in a thin, water-y wine. More interesting than good.

4: Mirugai/Aoyagi Sashimi
Next, more clam action. The geoduck was some of the strongest I've had, with its focused, ocean-y savor on proud display, deftly counteracted bit just a hint of citrus. The orange clam, meanwhile, was a different story, with a much softer consistency and milder flavor, accented by the bit of burn from the sprouts tossed in.

Speaking of wines past their prime, here was another example: the 1982 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Cuvée Fleur de Champagne Rosé. This one was pretty much undrinkable (due to a faulty cork), and we barely managed to down a glass of the stuff. The bubbly was utterly oxidized, giving it a tart, nutty, puckering quality that verged on disconcerting. We were actually planning on giving a glass to the aforementioned drunk Chinese gentleman, telling him it was sherry, but unfortunately never got around to it.

5: Shima Aji/Hamachi/Kanpachi Hara Sushi
Here was a tasting of three belly cuts of fish (note that the plates used here are the exact same ones seen at Ootoro!). The striped jack was my favorite of the troika, with its wonderfully sweet flavor interjected by the salty kick of yuzukosho. The yellowtail, conversely, was much fattier, lusher, and more luxurious, while the amberjack was the firmest of the group, with more austerity on the palate.

Switching gears now, we went for some beer, and first up was the Foret Blanche from Brasserie Dupont. It was sort of a classic witbier--crisp and refreshing, with a citrusy, spicy character to it joined by some malty funk.

Hotate

6: Hotate
Live scallop sashimi was sweet and briny, and accented by a sharp prick of citrus-y tang, though the sweetness of the miso could easy overwhelm it. The key, thus, was to incorporate the scallion, which added a wonderful astringency to the mix that really brought everything together.

Our final Burg was the 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières, which was pretty fantastic, easily larger in scale than the two preceding Chards. It was velvety, almost viscous on the tongue, with delectable thrusts of slate and citrusfruit cut by a pleasing acidity.

Torching Uni

Here, we see Chef/Owner Ken-san torching our uni. I understand that he used to work for Ootoro's chef Kai Wei Chen, which may explain some of the similarities in the food.

7: Uni Tataki
This might be the only occasion where I've had seared sea urchin, and I must say, the results were pretty fantastic--I'm surprised more restaurants don't do this. The sweetness of the roe was rightly conveyed, but the counterbalancing char bitterness here just added another layer of complexity that took the sushi to another level.

The lone Bordeaux entry this evening came in the form of the 2005 Chateau Talbot. It was sort of what you'd expect from the wine, with its young tannins and pleasant mix of herbaceous and fruity qualities. Not particularly cerebral, but quite enjoyable nonetheless.

Miyazaki Beef

Ken-san proudly shows off his Miyazaki wagyu strip loin. Dat fat!

8: Miyazaki Gyu Sashi
And here we see the aforementioned meat presented in sashimi form, a silky, delightfully marbled celebration of real-deal Japanese beef, nicely offset by its zesty topping of negi.

Now, Ken-san presents to us an impressive tuna collar for our next course.

9: Kamatoro
Arguably even more impressive than the wagyu was the kamatoro, a wonderfully fatty, slightly chewy sliver of fish that was perfectly accentuated by its yuzukosho topping. If you haven't had kamatoro before, you need to.

10: Miyazaki Gyu
Even more wagyu! Here, it was presented in steak form, a trembling mass of near gelatinous beef, uncompromisingly rich and utterly fatty--just look at the marbling. It was about as close to melt-in-your-mouth as you can get, and was served with accoutrements that did the best they could to contain the intensity of the cut.

11: Kama Yaki
Now, we were given the roasted version of the collar above. It was a heavy, heavy dish, with an almost beef-like quality to it and a pretty profound depth.

Back to beers now with Uinta Brewing's Tilted Smile Imperial Pilsner. This one was much more aggressive than I expected, with a really apparent, sweet-ish malty quality to it counteracted by just enough hop bitterness and a trace of booziness.

12: Ebi No Misoshiru
The heads from the shrimp above were incorporated into a miso soup, the ocean-y goodness of the crustacean adding just that extra bit of flavor to the already wonderfully aromatic, comforting, umami-laced flavors here.

Uni Sushi [$15.00]
An extra course of uni, just because.

1991 Glenlivet Triumph 'Nadurra' 18 Year Old

With dinner coming to an end, we saved the Mikkeller Nelson Sauvignon for another day (was really looking forward to trying it, too) and instead went for the 1991 Glenlivet Triumph "Nadurra" 18 Year Old. This was a limited edition bottling made solely with Triumph barley, distilled and casked 22 years ago and bottled in 2009. I found this surprisingly approachable given its proof, and quite liked its honey-vanilla sweetness and woody characteristics, all finished by a pronounced spiciness. Very nice.

13: Reishi No Aisukurimu
Finally, to close, a refreshingly light, bright lychee ice cream.

The off-menu omakase that we enjoyed rang in at a not-too-unreasonable $150 per head, and I gotta say that the meal was very solid. The food was pretty much spot on throughout the entire night, and the quality of ingredients didn't leave much to be desired. Being able to enjoy true wagyu and kamatoro was a real treat as well, and the fun, jovial nature of our itamae certainly didn't hurt, either. Eating at a Chinese sushi place is certainly a bit of a change from the norm, but it's something that's actually worth experiencing, at least here.

Saam at The Bazaar
465 S La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
310.246.5555
www.thebazaar.com/beverly-hills-saam
Thu 08/22/2013, 08:00p-12:50a

Ever since my first visit back in 2009, Saam has remained my preferred way to dine at The Bazaar, as it affords patrons a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of the main dining room and instead presents a more serene experience focused almost solely on what's on the plate. Given that I quite enjoyed my last meal here, I'm a bit surprised that it's taken me over four years to return, but here I am. Back then, Michael Voltaggio was still in charge, but Saam is now run by Holly Jivin, with assistance from Barcelona native Aitor Zabala (Assistant Director of R&D for José Andrés' Think Food Group) as well as The Bazaar's main chef Joshua Whigham.

Saam's menu is usually 22 courses at $120 a head (with an optional $100 beverage pairing), but tonight we opted for an extended tasting priced at $160 for 29 courses. Click for a larger version.

1: Kaviar Kir Royale
As always, a meal at Saam begins with a welcoming cocktail, and tonight it was a riff on the Kir Royal made with Cava, crème de cassis, and crème de cassis spherifications. It was a fitting apéritif, classic in essence, with the sweetness of the blackcurrant working well with the dry, crisp nature of the sparkling wine.

2: Peking Dumpling
One of the highlights of the meal for me were these cotton candy dumplings stuffed with hoisin and chicharrón, then topped with microcilantro and gold foil. The sweet-savory interplay here was pretty genius, and I loved the herby overtones present as well, which served as the perfect exclamation point to the course. Definitely a "wow" factor here.

Peanut

3: Peanut
The "peanuts" were actually comprised of praline and red Thai curry in a sugar shell, dusted with lime zest and ginger. Think fun, nutty, crunchy, and sweet, with just a hint of piquancy from the curry and a whisper of ginger-y tang.

4: Parmesan Pie
The world's smallest pie was composed of a Parmesan crisp, Parmesan cream, and basil. I really liked this one, with its mildly savory nuances on the attack leading to stronger, cheesier notes toward the back end, all with the herb adding an overarching, countervailing aromatic component to the bite. Yum.

5: Nuts & Yogurt
Here were "ravioli" of pistachio and pine nut encased in rice paper, all set in a yogurt powder. I first tried the pistachio variation, and found it creamy and tangy, with a surprisingly subtle undercurrent of nuttiness. The pine nut version was more interesting, with a particularly intriguing depth to it, but overall, the flavors didn't meld as much as I was hoping for.

Instead of going with the standard wine pairing, we opted for bottles given our large party size (a dozen people). Starting things off was the 2003 Viura, Viña Gravonia, Rioja, R. López de Heredia. I quite liked this one, finding its oxidative quality a fantastic counterpoint to the dry, nutty character of the wine. Surprisingly refreshing, with just a hint of fruit toward the back.

6: Oyster & Jamon
Next, a combo of savory ham, bright cilantro, and tangy lime segments formed a fitting complement to the inherent salinity of the Luna oyster. Particularly satisfying when taken with the paired wine.

7: Ibérico Arlette
This curious looking course was an Ibérico cracker dusted with gold and thyme. It was very light on the palate initially, with the savoriness of the ham only coming through toward the lingering finish, though I would've liked the lushness and unique character of the Jamón to have been more readily apparent here--it was a bit too subtle.

8: Cod & Honey
Cod espuma was wrapped in brik dough, then topped with a line of honey-truffle purée. This was another winner, with the earthy, unabashedly sugary nature of the condiment working wonders against the creamy, fishy base of the dish.

9: Yeye's Carrot
This faux carrot was comprised of a carrot meringue hiding a carrot-ginger sorbet, all garnished by sea grass. It was a classic pairing of the sweet-n-spicy ingredients, and I found the dissolving nature of the meringue particularly interesting here, though quite a few members of my dining party didn't care for this one at all.

10: Carrot & Coconut
Sticking with the carrot theme, here was a dish of coconut-cauliflower purée, nasturtium, coconut crisps, carrot air, and fermented carrot. It was positively fascinating, a lovely mélange of disparate textures and contrasting bright, savory, spicy, and sweet flavors that were almost Asian-y in essence when eaten together (even recalling Korean namul with one of my dining companions).

Keeping with the oxidative bent, next was the 2008 Orange Pinot Grigio, Ram, Venizia Giulia, Italy, Malina. This was to my liking as well, with a smooth, soft fruitiness to go along with the more austere flavors present.

11: Avgotaraho
Here, in a nod to the Greek mullet roe dish of the same name, we had sturgeon roe and burrata in a seared bun, topped with a sprinkle of Maldon. It was a tasty morsel, salty and heavy and satisfying, though I would've preferred a slightly lighter, smaller bun.

12: Teriyaki Rib
Just about the daintiest rib ever featured the sushi staple of kanpachi, joined by wasabi, red curry, and black sesame. It was a delectable offering, with the sweet, smoky nuances here playing well with the ocean-y flavors of the amberjack. I'd have no problem demolishing an entire rack of this!

13: Uni Mango
Arguably my favorite course of the night was this reimagined nigirizushi. We had uni, of course, over a mango sphere, with yuzukosho, cilantro flower, and nori. The key here was how the sweetness of the fruit melded flawlessly with the complementary flavors of the sea urchin, forming a complex of sugary, briny goodness that was dutifully tempered by the umami-laced relish (as well as crunch) of the seaweed on the finish. Masterful.

L'Eggo

14: L'Eggo
Next, a throwback to my childhood favorite Legos, reinvented here as a sort of Negroni, one composed of Campari, orange, and orange zest. It was a bright, bracing bite, with a deft blend of sour and bittersweet flavors that definitely jolted the palate.

Chicken 'Ham'

15: Chicken "Ham"
Eight-hour cured chicken was accompanied by prawn praline, figs, black garlic, and everyone's favorite, chicken skin. It was an unconventional, but effective combo, sweetish at first, with the savoriness of the bird coming through strong toward the close, all with a sort of overarching, moderating herbiness.

16: Garbanzo con Jamón
A potage of garbanzo came with jamón cream and parsley purée. I found it hearty and garlicky, with an almost ramen-like savoriness and an effective, counterbalancing zing from the parsley.

At this point, we moved on to a beer, the Imperial Black IPA, Dubhe, Urah, Uinta Brewing Co. This one was pretty cool, with plenty of dark, malty, chocolate-y flavors tempered by a great touch of hop bitterness.

17: Dark Egg
Another standout was this sort of reworked century egg, one made of a sous vided yolk spherification encased in a truffle gelatin with Parmesan, all set in an olive oil base and paired with a tableside carbonara sauce. It was all that you'd expect: rich, lush, and luxurious, with the runny goodness of that egg beautifully matched by the heady nuances from the truffle, all while the carbonara served to tie everything together. Delish.

18: Chanterelles
Chanterelles formed a natural pairing for chicken oysters, along with fennel and a mushroom cream. The heady, earthy taste of those 'shrooms made for a seamless complement to the immensely flavorful bird, all while the fennel added a wonderfully zesty foil to the dish.

19: Norwegian Lobster
Langoustine was super briny, really tasting of the ocean with a subtle sweetness to it that worked hand-in-hand with the tempering potato espuma, all while the paprika added just a tinge of spice to the dish.

Our sole red wine was the 2001 Rioja, España, Reserva Señorío de P. Peciña. This one had some nice age on it, and showed off pleasingly tart, but silky fruit notes bound by some mild tannins and a nice bit of earthiness and alcohol toward the end.

20: Spanish Octopus
Poached octopus was accompanied by piquillo, corn, aioli, guindilla pepper, and nasturtium. The tentacle tended toward mild, and I would've liked more of a savory, charred (and crisp) character to it, though the Spanish influenced flavor combinations definitely made sense.

21: Sturgeon with Sturgeon
Another favorite of mine was the sturgeon, which arrived wrapped in pancetta and topped with Almas Ara caviar and sprigs of sea grass. The fish was really a shining example of sturgeon: soft and succulent, with a wonderfully salty character to it that I found immensely satisfying. Very nice.

Presenting Lamb Shank

The lamb shank for our next course, presented tableside before being taken back to the kitchen and plated.

22: Lamb Shank
For our last savory course, sous vide lamb shank came with eggplant, yogurt, and za'atar. The meat itself was peppery and deep, with an apparent ovine relish to it, thought it really could've stood to be more tender to the bite. That being said, the smoky, creamy notes here really worked with the lamb, and I was especially fond of that yogurt.

'Philly cheesesteak'

"Philly cheesesteak" | Air bread, cheddar, Wagyu beef
At this point, we requested a supplemental course featuring The Bazaar's signature Philly cheese steak. It was hard not to like, a blast of beefy, salty, and cheesy flavors, offset just a bit by the airy nature of the crunchy bread.

To pair with the desserts, we were provided the 2008 Vidal Ice Wine, Canada, Konzelmann. It was just as you'd expect from an ice wine, coming to us viscous and sweet, with loads of stone fruit flavors joined by just a smidge of nutty goodness. Nice!

23: Japanese Baby Peaches
Our first dessert was a variation of a dish that's been on the menu since day one. The sweetness of the peaches was nicely conveyed here, expertly complemented by the savory, nutty notes from the Di Stefano burrata, brioche, and hazelnut praline. Some nice textures here, too.

24: Dragon's Breath
The omnipresent Dragon's Breath (basically a sweet, cool bite of liquid nitrogen-dipped popcorn) was as fun as ever, especially for the newbies in the group.

25: Strawberry Gazpacho
A strawberry gazpacho was tangy and sweet, a refreshing course amplified further by the vanilla, lime, and espelette notes present.

26: ~~Flan~~Desert in the Desert
A bit of a substitution here: the so-called "Desert in the Desert" dessert was served to us in place of the "Flan in the Desert" advertised on the menu. What we had was a chocolate-cardamom ice cream in almond dust, dehydrated cherry, and raspberry purée. There was a lot going on, but everything definitely made sense, with a wonderful sweet spice joined by a multitude of flavors, all offset by a nice crunch to the course.

27: Milk Chocolate & Bergamot
Our final proper course comprised a milk chocolate cremeux, chocolate croquant, pistachio coulis, Greek yogurt, and mandarin oranges. This was a smart reinterpretation of the classic combo of chocolate and orange, all finished with a delightful nutty tint.

White Chocolate Air / Bubble Wrap

28: White Chocolate Air
29: Bubble Wrap
We concluded, fittingly, with our mignardises course. My favorites? The disintegrating white chocolate air and the sweet-nutty, pop rock-infused raspberry explosion bon bons. And to take home: The Bazaar's take on Rice Krispies treats.

It was great to revisit Saam after all this time and see how the restaurant has evolved. To me, the cooking's gotten a little less "molecular" and a bit more ingredient-focused, though the whimsical presentations and inventive flavor combinations remain. The food was as fun and tasty as I remember, and Saam's still one of the most unique dining experiences in LA to be sure. This is the type of place that should be on your bucket list.

Benu Restaurant
22 Hawthorne St, San Francisco, CA 94105
415.685.4860
www.benusf.com
Sat 08/24/2013, 08:40p-11:30p

Benu Exterior

My dinner at Chef Corey Lee's groundbreaking Benu last year was memorable for two reasons. First, it was arguably my best meal of 2012; and second, it marked the only occasion where I'd forgotten to bring my camera's memory card(!). Given the strength of my experience here, I couldn't let the blog stand with those subpar cell phone pics, so a revisit was in order to give the food its proper due.

Benu's sole menu option this evening was a 17-course degustation priced at $180 per head, plus $150 for the always-superb beverage pairings of Head Sommelier Yoon Ha. Click for larger versions.

1: thousand-year-old quail egg, potage, ginger
prager, grüner veltliner, federspiel, hinter der burg, wachau, austria 2011
We commenced with a course that looked humble, but was anything but. The egg itself was pretty fantastic, a spot on homage to the traditional delicacy, and went superbly with the included potage of bacon, cabbage, and cream, a hearty, comforting liquid that added a bit of heft to the surprising lightness of the pidan. The key here, though, was the use of the traditional accompaniment of ginger, which imparted a brightness that just lifted the entire dish.

2: oyster, pork belly, kimchi
prager, grüner veltliner, federspiel, hinter der burg, wachau, austria 2011
A singular Beau Soleil showed off a masterful interplay between two complementary facets of richness between the belly and the oyster, but with the bivalve always managing to shine through despite the heft of the pork. I also really appreciated the hint of kimchi spice toward the back end, too. A great little bite.

3: salmon roe, eggplant, buckwheat, perilla
matsuura, narutotai, namagenshu ginjo, tokushima, japan
Buckwheat was used to great effect here, imparting a tempering crunch to the smoky, salty combo of ikura and eggplant, while the perilla added well-placed pricks of mintiness to the fray. A harmony of disparate textures and tastes, and one that was particularly apt against the bright, racy flavors of the accompanying namazake.

4: anchovy, celery, peanut
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
Next, we began a procession of four little courses, all presented on the same transparent serving piece and paired with Hitachino's always-satisfying, somewhat-funky Red Rice Ale. The caramelized anchovy was fantastic, capturing the essence of the traditional snack and showing off a deft blend of sweet and fishy flavors that were dutifully moderated by a hit of celery zing, all while the peanut served as the perfect nutty finish.

5: faux shark's fin, dungeness crab, caviar, rousong
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
Chef Lee's famous faux shark's fin soup is off the menu (for now), but the main ingredient was put to good use here. Texturally, the "fin" was fantastic, adding a springy component to the growing intensity of flavors in the course, the sweetness of the crab masterfully offset by the subtle undercurrent of rousong savor.

'xo sausage' with basil curd

6: "xo sausage" with basil curd
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
I was tempted to go Alinea-style here and eat this hands-free, but wisely decided not to. The sausage, enhanced with the qualities of the legendary XO, conveyed a very pleasing depth and savor to it, one that paired just swimmingly with the creamy, herby nuances provided by the basil.

7: acorn beggar's purse with black truffle
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
The last of the foursome was Benu's ode to the signature dish of 80's NYC hotspot Quilted Giraffe. Their beggar's purse came with crème fraîche and caviar, and was itself a riff on the French treat aumonieres. This version might've been even more luxurious: unabashedly savory, lush, and creamy on the palate, with a subtle, yet always apparent overtone of truffle that lasted long on the palate.

multigrain bread, ginseng honey butter

Bread, of course, was also something to behold. The multigrain variety here was wonderfully nutty, smoky even, with a delightfully crisp crust to it. However, the real star was that ginseng-honey butter, which married the zesty notes of the root with a fantastically lush sweetness that just paired with the bread beautifully.

8: almond tofu, green apple, chia seed
Our next course functioned as a sort of intermezzo, its bright, juicy flavors, herbaceous zing, and apple-y crunch providing a bit of a respite from the hefty flavors that we'd been experiencing.

9: cold noodles, pickled hearts of palm, shrimp roe, mint
von hövel, riesling kabinett, sharzhofberger, mosel, germany 2008
Pairing in stellar fashion with the vibrant acidity of the Kabinett Riesling were some of the best cold noodles I've encountered. I loved the umami-rich base of the dish, courtesy of the shrimp, a focused, almost profound thrust of ocean-y goodness that was keenly countered by the light, delicate flavors of the noodles and palm. Even better? The pin pricks of piquancy that were enabled by the use of ginger and mint. I wouldn't have minded going through a big bowl of the stuff!

10: lobster coral xiao long bao
duchesse de bourgogne, flemish red brown ale, belgium
Next, we come to what has become perhaps Lee's most well-known dish, a masterful homage to the humble xiaolongbao. It was just so utterly, ridiculously xiang, an umami explosion (both literally and figuratively) with an incredible depth to it that satisfies in the basest ways possible. I'm not sure if I liked 'em with or without the vinegar (a wonderful foil to the paired Duchesse, by the way), but no matter, I'd love to demolish a whole bamboo basket of these beauties.

11: pig's head with lentil hozön and bönji
duchesse de bourgogne, flemish red brown ale, belgium
Also fantastic with the Duchesse was this schmancy souse, its stupendously porcine quality joined by countervailing hits of ferment-y, tangy, and sweet flavors, the result of the hozon and bonji now being produced by Momofuku frontman David Chang. Perhaps the best head cheese I've ever had.

12: whiting, crispy mushroom, haiga rice, burdock, charred scallion
cuilleron, marsanne, les vignes d'á côté, rhône, france 2012
The whiting, surprisingly, just might've been my favorite course of the evening. The thing that struck me most about the fish was its texture, which I'd describe as firm, but springy, with an almost gelatinous quality to it that I found immensely satisfying. On the palate, it was delicate, nuanced, and really took on the mouthwateringly savory flavors of the accompanying rice, while the scallion added a fantastic jolt of smoke and astringency to the mix. And those mushrooms? Some of the best I've had--perfect.

13a: roast quail, lettuce heart, mustard
cristom, pinot noir, sommer's reserve, willamette valley, oregon 2011
Getting into the more substantial courses now, quail was roasted beautifully, showing off two distinct, yet complementary facets of the bird in flawlessly done breast and leg presentations. Adding to this was a subtle undertone of sweetness that worked out really well, emphasizing the savory qualities of the quail, while the lettuce imparted a fantastically light, charred, counterbalancing quality to the dish. Delish.

Kippin dried abalone

13b: 25 head Kippin abalone from Iwate, 2008, potato purée, tender kale, braising jus [$230 supplement]
el maestro sierra, oloroso sherry, jerez, spain
In place of the quail, diners also had the option of Kippin abalone from Japan's Iwate prefecture, oft considered some of the best in the world. Priced at $230 a pop, it was costlier than the entire rest of the menu, and quite easily the most expensive single dish I've had. The awabi was of the 2008 vintage, and was prepared by braising in a stock of chicken feet and pork neck for 18 hours. The result of all this was the best cooked abalone I've had--meaty and a bit gelatinous to the bite, with a great growing depth and complexity to it that was tempered in part by the potato and greens present. Also of note here was the wine pairing, with the Oloroso coming to us nutty and oxidative, and also super dry on the palate. What was interesting was how the Sherry seemed to become sweeter upon being paired with the mollusk.

14: beef braised in pear juice and charcoal-grilled, lily bulb, sunflower, fermented pepper
clos st. jean, châteauneuf-du-pape, rhône, france 2008
Next, Brandt beef was braised overnight, resulting in a dish that one of my dining companions likened to an "elevated galbi." Texturally, the meat was tender, but not mushy, with still some structure to it, while its dark, bovine flavors worked faultlessly with the sweet-ish sauce and the whisper of spice toward the back end. The lily bulb served to balance out the sheer heft of the meat, and what I liked even more was the use of sunflower seed, which acted as a fantastic accent piece with its nuttiness and crunch.

15: shellfish consommé and raft, Jinhua ham, chrysanthemum
blandy's, verdelho, madeira, portugal 1968
Benu's famed "shark's fin soup" may be off the menu now, but its rather profound broth was put to good use here, serving as a complement to the intensely ocean-y, briny flavors of the shellfish, while the whole shebang concluded with a delightfully peppery tint on the close. The wine pairing here was spot on too, the '68 Madeira conveying a surprisingly youthful exuberance with its trademark oxidative, nutty, and raisin-y qualities.

16: sake lees sherbet, strawberry, yuzu
The sweet stuff at Benu is now the charge of new Pastry Chef Courtney Schmidig, who comes to the restaurant from The French Laundry and replaces Christopher Bleidorn (who went to Atelier Crenn). She got off to a strong start here with this deceptively simple dessert. I adored how the funky, earthy, yet saccharine notes of the kasu was conveyed, set against the sweetness of strawberry with just a smidge of yuzu tang on the midpalate.

17: sesame white cake with salted plum
uroulat, jurançon, southwest france 2011
Let's just say that we were all a bit shocked when an honest-to-goodness, old-school cake was placed on the table for our main dessert. It was a bit dissonant given the hypermodern aesthetic at Benu, but the contrast was pure genius, and we all appreciated the communal aspect here, of slicing and serving the cake to each other "family style." Concept aside, the cake was pretty damn good. The plum, however, really took it to the next level, imparting a salty/sour component that really worked wonders with the sweetness here. I'd love this in a larger size as a birthday cake!

Once again, Benu managed to impress, delivering a virtually flawless meal that showcased Chef Lee's deft hand in marrying his contemporary leanings with Asia's vast culinary playbook. The food effectively conveys and honors those traditions, but never verges on trite or contrived, utilizing just the right amount of modernist flair in the process. At the same time, deliciousness was never compromised, and the comforting, cozy flavors that one expects are present in all their glory, with only occasional dalliances in the overtly cerebral. And, as expected, beverage pairings were spot on as well, really linking up with the cooking in creative and effective ways. The Benu team is doing some great work here, and I'm looking forward to see where they all take this. Time for three stars?

Check out the master Index of Posts to view a list of all the restaurants that I've visited. Or, see the Interactive Dining Map and The Best Thing I Ever Ate, a list of my favorites dishes of all time. Contact me via email at kevin at kevineats dot com.

New York Strip Steak Tasting
Sat 05/11/2013, 03:00p-09:00p

Introduction:

This has been a long time coming. Several of my friends and I had been talking about doing a steak tasting for a while now, so this past weekend we finally muscled up the gumption to actually go through with it. We purchased nine NY strip loins from a wide variety of vendors ranging from ultra high-end mail order companies to local butcher shops to mainstream chain retailers. The steaks are summarized in the table below, sorted in descending order of price:

Steak Name	Price/lb	Price	Weight	Thickness	Aging	Grade	Notes
Flannery California Reserve New York Steak	$55.78/lb	$62.75	18oz (advertised)	1 3/4" (1 1/2" advertised)	4-week dry aged	Prime	Additional shipping charges may apply.
Pat LaFrieda 50 Day Dry-Aged USDA Prime Black Angus Bone-In NY Strip Steak	$48.89/lb	$55.00	18oz (advertised)	2" (1 1/2" advertised)	50-day dry aged	Prime	No antibiotics, hormones, or growth promoting drugs. Fed grass/hay and finished on corn. De-boned prior to shipment. $20 shipping charge not included in price.
Flannery Midwestern New York Steak	$43.11/lb	$48.50	18oz (advertised)	1 7/8" (1 1/2" advertised)	4-week dry aged	Prime	Additional shipping charges may apply.
Lindy & Grundy NY Strip 6 Week Aged	$41.00/lb	$41.82	16.32oz	1 5/8" (1 1/2" requested)	6-week dry aged	Ungraded	Organic. No antibiotics, hormones, or pesticides. 100% grass fed and grass finished. De-boned by request at point of purchase.
Beef Palace Extra Dry-Aged Prime NY Strip	$25.99/lb	$19.70	12oz	1 5/8" (1 1/2" requested)	3-week dry aged	Prime
Whole Foods Dry Aged Porterhouse Steak	$21.99/lb	$34.96	25.44oz	1 1/2"	4-week dry aged	Prime	Vegetarian diet with no antibiotics or added growth hormones. Was purchased as a trimmed and de-boned porterhouse.
Costco Kirkland Signature Prime New York Steak	$11.99/lb	$9.07	12.11oz	1 1/4"	Unknown	Prime	Blade tenderized.
Ralphs Select Boneless New York Steak	$10.99/lb	$13.74	20oz	1 7/8" (1 1/2" requested)	Yes, wet aged	Select	Custom cut and not pre-packaged.
Walmart Choice New York Strip Steak	$10.48/lb	$8.54	13.04oz	1 1/8"	Yes	Choice

Methodology:

Steak Lineup

In an attempt to eliminate bias, we tried to do the tasting as blind as possible. As such, what I did was remove the steaks from their packaging, lay them out bare on plates, and assign a letter to each one (as seen on the piece of paper to the left). The person actually cooking the meat then came in and, not knowing my letter assignment and thus which steak was which, randomly assigned a number to each letter (the paper on the right), keeping the mapping away from me. In effect, we had a two-part "encryption" method wherein no one person would know both parts of the "key" necessary to relate the name of the steak with its assigned number. The two "keys" were only put together at the end of the tasting.

Salt and Pepper Only

With that out of the way, another member of the tasting party seasoned all sides of each steak with a mixture of ground pink Himalayan salt and Tellicherry peppercorn.

The steaks were then sealed in plastic bags using a FoodSaver V3240 vacuum sealer.

During the prep process, we sampled the Pappy Van Winkle's 20yr Family Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey that one of the tasters brought. Good stuff!

Sous Vide Steak

With all the meat prepped and ready to go, we plopped the bags into a PolyScience immersion circulator. The steaks were cooked sous vide at 123°F for at least two hours, then finished on cast iron (one minute on the top and bottom, then 30 seconds for the sides) with butter immediately prior to serving.

Slicing Steak

The steaks were selected in random order, finished, sliced, photographed, and then sliced some more into bite-size pieces.

Steak Scorecard

The meat was then brought to the table for our nine tasters to sample, identified merely by a number. Tasters were provided Shun knives and score sheets, which were collected at the end of the evening and tabulated. Along with the steak, we were also served mashed potatoes and a simple salad.

In a nod toward consistency, we all drank the same wine throughout the tasting, the Scholium Project Gardens of Babylon, a bright, lively Petite Sirah-based California blend that stood up well to the meat without overshadowing it. Water was also provided, in addition to cola for the teetotaler in the group.

Results:

The steaks are shown below in the order that they were tasted. I'll present my personal thoughts on each before delving into the aggregate results.

#10 - Flannery California Reserve New York Steak
We got started with what was easily the most expensive (and most beautiful) steak of the group. What the price bought you was some pretty incredible marbling, in fact probably the most marbling I'd ever seen in a non-wagyu-style steak. The result of this was a super intense, super fatty flavor that was delicious, but at the same time, almost too much. The issue here, though, was the texture, which was quite chewy at times. This could've greatly benefitted from some more cooking.

#5 - Pat LaFrieda 50 Day Dry-Aged USDA Prime Black Angus Bone-In NY Strip Steak
Next was the second priciest steak, from famed New York butcher Pat LaFrieda. This one showed off an almost foie gras-esque richness and lushness to it, and just oozed fat upon mastication. Unfortunately, it also suffered from the textural problems witnessed in the Flannery above, but was overall more balanced and easier-eating.

#1 - Costco Kirkland Signature Prime New York Steak
The Costco steak shined in the area of texture, especially compared to the two preceding cuts. It was obviously much more restrained in character, with a slight nuttiness and a nice crust, and was something that I'd have no problem eating a large portion of.

#9 - Beef Palace Extra Dry-Aged Prime NY Strip
Beef Palace is a well-regarded butcher located in sunny Huntington Beach, CA. I'd heard some great things about the place, and its product did not disappoint. I actually found it quite similar to the Kirkland steak, and also rated it highly.

#8 - Walmart Choice New York Strip Steak
The Walmart steak pleasantly surprised most of us, myself included, despite being the thinnest of the bunch. It had a great sear and char, and was balanced, mild, and non-offensive in presentation. There wasn't a huge amount of flavor here, but I really didn't mind eating it.

#4 - Whole Foods Dry Aged Porterhouse Steak
I'd had Whole Foods steaks before, and they'd always been solid. This was no exception, displaying a very well-integrated fattiness and a delectable earthiness on the close.

#3 - Flannery Midwestern New York Steak
For me, the second Flannery entry also suffered from the same problems we saw in the first, which, unfortunately, was likely a byproduct of our methodology rather than an inherent flaw in the meat. That being said, the steak was certainly flavorful, but parts of it seemed strangely bland at times.

#7 - Lindy & Grundy NY Strip 6 Week Aged
Upon biting into the L&G, I knew instantly that this was grass-fed. The eating experience is just that different. The flavor here was intense to say the least, with a grassy, almost seaweed-like taste that's certainly not for everyone (though I'm ok with it). Texturally, I found this surprisingly pleasing despite the leanness of the meat.

#2 - Ralphs Select Boneless New York Steak
We ended with a USDA Select cut from Ralphs, which is probably representative of your typical supermarket steak. It was definitely on the lean side, though I thought it was surprisingly juicy. Taste-wise, I wasn't in love, deeming the meat minerally and austere, with a nutty tinge. It was my least favorite of the bunch.

Now that we have my thoughts out of the way, we'll take a look at the aggregate data for the entire group. In the table below, I show the average (mean) values for all the steaks across each category, as well as the resultant rankings. I also have some select comments from the other tasters, some of which were quite eye-opening.

Steak Name	Taste	Texture	Looks	Total	Overall Rank	Taste Rank	Texture Rank	Other Tasters' Comments
Flannery California Reserve New York Steak	11.1	6.4	4.1	21.7	6	4	9	Rubbery. Meaty. Wagyu like. Very chewy.
Pat LaFrieda 50 Day Dry-Aged USDA Prime Black Angus Bone-In NY Strip Steak	12.3	7.3	3.9	23.5	3	2	8	Beautiful beefy flavor. Firm. Tastes like steak.
Flannery Midwestern New York Steak	12.1	8.2	4.2	24.5	2	3	2	Buttery but a touch gritty. Lil' earthy.
Lindy & Grundy NY Strip 6 Week Aged	7.1	7.4	3.6	18.1	9	9	7	Super grassy. Intensely earthy. Livery. Steely, seaweed. Eww.
Beef Palace Extra Dry-Aged Prime NY Strip	10.8	7.8	3.9	22.4	4	5	4	Non offensive. Yummy.
Whole Foods Dry Aged NY Strip	12.3	8.6	4.0	24.9	1	1	1	Fatty. Not intense. Super good.
Costco Kirkland Signature Prime New York Steak	10.1	8.1	3.3	21.6	7	7	3	Grainy. Meh.
Ralphs Select Boneless New York Steak	10.2	7.5	4.0	21.7	5	6	5	Ultra nutty. Juicy. Super beefy. Steely. Pretty good.
Walmart Choice New York Strip Steak	8.8	7.4	3.4	19.6	8	8	6	Not much flavor. Texture is good. Tastes of butter. Not as yummy.

Though the rankings are obviously important, they're only part of the story, and I think it's also worthwhile to take a look at the variability in the scores:

Steak Name	Range (High - Low Scores)				Standard Deviation				Relative Standard Deviation
Steak Name	Taste	Texture	Looks	Total	Taste	Texture	Looks	Total	Taste	Texture	Looks	Total
Flannery California Reserve New York Steak	2	5	2	5	0.8	1.4	0.9	1.8	7%	22%	23%	8%
Pat LaFrieda 50 Day Dry-Aged USDA Prime Black Angus Bone-In NY Strip Steak	4	2.5	2	5	1.2	1.0	0.9	1.7	10%	14%	24%	7%
Flannery Midwestern New York Steak	5	4	2	11	2.0	1.7	1.0	4.2	17%	21%	23%	17%
Lindy & Grundy NY Strip 6 Week Aged	10	3	1	12	3.1	1.1	0.5	3.8	44%	14%	15%	21%
Beef Palace Extra Dry-Aged Prime NY Strip	8	3	2	11	2.6	1.1	0.8	3.7	24%	14%	20%	17%
Whole Foods Dry Aged NY Strip	3	3	2	8	1.3	1.1	0.9	2.8	11%	13%	22%	11%
Costco Kirkland Signature Prime New York Steak	5	4	1	7	1.6	1.4	0.5	2.5	16%	17%	15%	11%
Ralphs Select Boneless New York Steak	6	3	2	9	2.2	1.1	0.9	3.4	21%	14%	22%	16%
Walmart Choice New York Strip Steak	4	5	3	8	1.4	1.7	0.9	2.8	16%	23%	26%	14%

Conclusions:

Whole Foods snags the win here, coming in first overall, as well as for the subratings of taste and texture. I'm positing that their secret for success was that the steak was generally very enjoyable to all the tasters, almost serving as a sort of "middle ground" with its tender, non-gristle-y consistency, moderate fattiness, and pleasing, though not overbearing flavor. There was nothing to dislike about the steak, and indeed, all of the tasters rated it at least moderately high.
The correlation between deliciousness and price wasn't as strong as we were expecting. Even the least expensive, commodity steaks of the bunch were serviceable. Hell, the Ralphs Select came in in fifth place (though personally, it was my least favorite of the bunch).
As far as appearance went, all the steaks looked relatively similar when cooked, so next time, I'd probably skip the "Looks" subrating. Going even further, perhaps we should eliminate subratings altogether and just go with an overall score. Keep it simple right?
Looking at the variability data, we see that people tended to be in agreement about the LaFrieda and the Flannery California Reserve, while the Lindy & Grundy was undeniably polarizing, as was the Walmart steak.
We aimed for a consistent 1.5" thickness across all the steaks, but this was difficult to enforce in practice. We found that the NY strips were, in every case, thicker than specified.
In certain cases, there was a large disparity between a steak's taste and texture scores. For example, the Flannery California Reserve scored well on taste, but was dead last for texture; the LaFrieda was even starker in that regard. On the other hand, the Costco steak fared far better in texture than taste.
I'm sure that part of the inconsistencies in the bullet point above was due to our cooking methods. The super-premium steaks--the Flannery and LaFrieda--were all rather fatty, and thus could've benefitted from a higher temperature setting on the immersion circulator, something closer to 130°F. This would've done a better job of cooking and integrating the marbling, which would likely get rid of complaints that the steaks were overly firm and chewy. Unfortunately, doing so would probably overcook many of the other steaks. In any case, I do believe that the LaFrieda and Flannery were shortchanged somewhat, and could've done much better.
As the sole grass-fed steak in the lot, the Lindy & Grundy bore the brunt of the tasters' unfamiliarity with the meat. Grass-fed steaks account for only a small percentage of the beef market, and most people simply have a hard time accepting the significantly different flavor profile of the meat, which I'm sure was only amplified by the six-week dry aging we had here. It's a leaner, healthier type of beef that's also better for the animals and the environment, but is definitely an acquired taste as we've seen here. Just look at the huge 44% RSD value for its taste rating; some people really didn't like it. I'm not surprised at the result, but for next time, perhaps an unaged grass-fed cut would fare better.

We had a blast holding this steak tasting, and I'm glad I enforced a bit of rigor to the process, which made for some enlightening results. I'm satisfied with how things turned out, but I think we definitely had some lessons learned as well about how we'd do things differently next time (and I'm pretty sure there will be a next time, I'm thinking with rib eyes). For Steak Tasting 2.0, what should we change? Which other steak purveyors should be included in the comparison?

LQ @ Vertical Wine Bistro
70 N Raymond Ave, Pasadena, CA 91103
213.610.9882
www.bistrolq.com
Sun 05/19/2013, 08:30p-11:35p

Since shuttering his namesake Bistro LQ in March 2011, you could say that Laurent Quenioux has been exploring his culinary wanderlust. Though he's been stationed at Vertical Wine Bistro since November 2010, the Chef has staged a number of popular "Foodings" throughout the Southland. The pop-up dinners kicked off in 2011 at Starry Kitchen, with Quenioux wrapping up that year with a stint at Le Saint Amour with Walter Manzke, a brief appearance on Top Chef: Texas, and a completely over-the-top 18-course white truffle dinner. In March 2012, the Chef ended his tenure at SK, but soon thereafter, paired up with the Trans again at a couple of controversial weed/herb dinners. Then, in May, he held another fooding at Good Girl Dinette in Highland Park, which was followed up by a run at Beverly Hills' Barney Greengrass a couple months later. This current series at Vertical extends a number of dinners he did in February this year, and lasts through early June. Quenioux is joined here by Sous Chef Daniel Vasquez and Pastry Chef Anthony Huynh, both longtime veterans of Bistro LQ.

LQ Foodings at Vertical Wine Bistro Menu

LQ Foodings at Vertical Wine Bistro Wine List

The LQ "Fooding" menu comprised five courses at a reasonable $48, while wine pairings by Domaine LA added on another $28pp. And of course, there was also the option of Quenioux's legendary, probably-best-in-the-City cheese cart and its 38 selections of imported, mostly-non-pasteurized, French fromage. Click for larger versions.

A crusty, rustic sourdough from upstart baker Bread Lounge (located right around the corner from Downtown hot spot Bestia) was served with a sweetish butter and olive oil by 41 Olive.

Kir Vertical [$12.00] | Prosecco, St Germain Liquor, Fresh Mint
Around The World [$12.00] | Cucumber, Hendrick's Gin, Agave Nectar, Elderflower Liqueur, Yuzu Juice
The Lolita [$12.00] | Plymouth Gin, Blueberries, Agave Nectar, Brown Sugar, Lemon Juice, Prosecco
To whet our appetites, we commenced with all three of the evening's cocktails. The Kir Vertical was pretty standard fare, giving us a back and forth between the prosecco and mint over an undercurrent of St. Germain sugariness. Meanwhile, the Around The World was a prototypical cucumber cocktail, with a classic interplay between the vegetable and the elderflower, all while the yuzu added a pinch of levity to the mix. My favorite of the bunch was The Lolita, a well-integrated drink which had a great fruity sweetness to it, all balanced by an intriguing spiciness and an interesting element in the form of that agave.

Mise en Bouche: Hokkaido Scallop smoked for 6 hours; Toasted Waffle, Nori Butter; Roasted Bone Marrow, Crayfish, Grated Celeriac
NV Terres Dorées Cremant de Bourgogne Chardonnay
Our amuse bouche course featured a trio of treats. Moving front to back per our server's direction, I started with the bone marrow. It displayed all of the slick, fatty flair that you'd expect from the stuff, which, combined with the crayfish, formed a rich, lush, almost bisque-like experience that complemented the seafood without overwhelming it. I appreciated the hit of brightness from the celeriac as well. Moving on, that nori butter was fantastic, showing off all of the seaweed's ocean-y, umami-laden savoriness against a light, fluffy waffle background. Last up was the scallop, a dense, sticky example that was positively imbued with an almost hammy smokiness; it was pretty intense alone, but the yuzukosho-esque condiment on top was a stupendous counterpoint.

1: Minestrone, Serrano Ham, Ramps Hazelnut Pesto, Amy's Farm Duck Egg, Rillette FG Macaron
2012 Domaine Sauvete Pineau D'Aunis Rosé Meli-Melo
Our first proper course featured Quenioux's take on minestrone. It was a delicious interpretation of the dish, an immensely savory potage with delightful points of piquancy and a wonderfully crisp egg in the middle. The foie gras-stuffed duck rillettes macaron was also appreciated, conveying a deft blend of sweet and salty flavors, finishing with a distinct tinge of pork.

2: Cold Poached Skate, Fried Capers, Watermelon Pico, Bonito Emulsion, Dehydrated Kale, Blis Char Roe, Dehydrated Beets, Morels
2011 Domaine du Closel "La Jalousie" Savenniere
The Chef's skate was a standout for me. The fish itself was spot on, supple and mild, yet full of flavor, delicious alone and even better when taken with the juicy slab of watermelon and those earthy morels. It was one of the tastiest preparations of the fish I've had. My only concern was that the char roe was a touch smoky at times, and could easily dominate the subtleties of the skate.

3: Rice Porridge, Veal Sweetbreads, Uni Bottarga, Uni, Wood Sorrel
2010 Monasterio De Corias, Maceration Carbonica
A lot of people seemed to love this course, and for good reason. It was a cozy, hearty dish, with the comfy flavors of the porridge working perfectly against the bright, green nuances of the sorrel, all while the uni offered up further luxuriousness to the dish. Perhaps the best part here, though, were the nuggets of sweetbreads, which showed off a flawlessly crisp texture and a mouth-watering savoriness that was easy to like. This was something I could just eat a big bowl of.

4: A3 Japanese Wagyu, Pan Drippings, Green Garlic Soil, English Pea Frozen Yogurt, Harissa Emulsion, Shaved Asparagus, Shaved Radish
2010 Mas de Gourgonnie, Les Baux de Provence Rouge
The most substantial course of the evening featured super fatty (arguably too fatty, depending on the piece you got) cuts of real-deal Japanese wagyu. The beef was as lush and decadent as you'd expect, an explosion of bovine flavors that was expertly countered by a focused kick of harissa spice. Loved the offsetting bitterness and crunch here of the slivers of radish and asparagus as well.

It just wouldn't seem like a proper LQ meal without an appearance from the famed cheese cart. You can get three cheeses for $12, five for $20, seven for $28, or the whole shebang for $120 (crazy!). We asked the Chef to choose for us, and he came up with the following, divided into hard and soft selections:

Mimolette - Salty, nutty, dry, crumbly, with an almost caramel-like tone and replete with "illegal" cheese mites.
Gruyère - Relatively mild and gritty, with a nice earthy character to it.
Fumaison - Fun and funky, with a hint of wood and smoke.
Tomme de Belloc - Rich and savory, with a dense, yet appealing body. This is one I could probably eat a lot of.
Carré Mirabelle - Salty, soft, and smooth. Nice!
Munster - Sharp and floral, with a strong-tasting, yet appealing quality to it.
Filetta Corsica - Earthy and herby, with a mushroom-y character to boot. Very cool.
Chambertin - Époisses-like in both appearance and taste.
Camembert - One of my go-to cheeses: creamy, rich, and always a good decision.
Reblochon - One of the most intense cheeses of bunch--zesty with a palpable earthiness to it.

The decet was served with fantastic homemade accompaniments of butternut squash with ginger, tomatillo, blueberry gelée, Okinawan sweet potato with maple, strawberry with balsamic, as well as an optional truffle honey [$3], in addition to toast and nuts.

5: Caramel Miso Goat Cheesecake, Black Sesame Graham Cracker Crumb, Tofu Cream, Grapefruit Sorbet, Brown Butter Croquant
Dessert starred a delightfully savory miso-caramel that formed the base to the dish, working well with the bright, citric flavors of the grapefruit while the sesame Graham cracker crumbles moderated the interaction. There was an intriguing bitter undertone to the dessert that I liked, and texturally, the croquant was key, adding a well-placed crunchiness that absolutely made sense to me.

Daniel Vasquez, Laurent Quenioux

Laurent Quenioux, with Sous Chef Daniel Vasquez.

A chef popping up in his own restaurant may be a bit odd, but the event was largely a success, and judging from how crowded the room was, I'm guessing I'm not alone in that sentiment. It was nice see how Quenioux's food has evolved over the years, becoming noticeably more cohesive, more nuanced, but still imbued with his signature eclectic style. As for what's next, the Chef will be doing a few more stints around down, and will also be traveling and cooking in Europe in late summer. No word yet though on his long-awaited permanent spot.

Petty Cash Restaurant
7360 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.933.5300
www.pettycashtaqueria.com
Wed 05/22/2013, 07:30p-10:20p

PettyCash Exterior

The biggest taco-related opening of the year has revealed itself in the form of PettyCash, a brand new postmodern taqueria set in the space formerly occupied by John Sedlar's Playa (and Neal Fraser's Grace, before that). The Bill Chait-backed (Sedlar is still a partner) restaurant features a menu by Walter Manzke (whose transcendent pig ear nachos at Test Kitchen perhaps foreshadowed his role here) and taco Wunderkind Guillermo "Oso" Campos Moreno from Tijuana's Tacos Kokopelli, with local blogger Bill Esparza running interference. PettyCash officially opened on May 21st after weeks of "secret" password-requiring preview dinners, and is walk-in only at the moment.

PettyCash Interior

Playa's former digs have been chopped and screwed. Though the basic layout remains, one side of the 150-seat room is dominated by a wall mural by graffiti artist RETNA, while communal benches have been installed, and the oft-ignored back room brought back to life with high-topped tables and shuffleboard. The vibe they were going for is described by marketing materials as "Tijuana circa 1986 meeting East LA circa 2013."

PettyCash's menu reads well, an of-the-moment interpretation of street food that Manzke and Campos are quite proud of (and indeed, it includes some of the latter's standbys from Tijuana). Tacos are meant to be the focus here, but there's a strong cast of supporting players as well, including those aforementioned oreja de cerdo nachos. The libations are equally as engaging. Given that this is a Bill Chait joint, cocktails are overseen by Julian Cox and are definitely worth a try; the beer selection is pretty damn respectable too. Also, be sure to pay special attention to the array of Mexican spirits on offer (Esparza's area of expertise I understand): tequila, mezcal (the new tequila), sotol (the new mezcal), bacanora, and yes, even raicilla (you'll probably have to look that one up). Click for larger versions.

Chips and Salsa

Housemade chips were gratis, as were the two salsas: one tomatillo, and one spicier, smokier variant. Interesting note: during previews, there were apparently three salsas provided, so I'm not sure why one was removed.

Ceviche Negro [$12.00] | pacific sea bass, squid ink, mango, peanuts
Perhaps inspired by Kokopelli's famed "Black Harder" dish, our first course of the evening managed to be one of my absolute favorites. I loved the unexpected, almost disconcerting tint of the sea bass here, and how it melded seamlessly with the simultaneously earthy, nutty, and spicy notes at play. There was just a fantastic depth of flavor here that really made the fish sing.

Chicharrones [$6.00] | pineapple-carrot hot sauce
Chicharrones were marvelous, the best pork rinds I'd ever had in fact: light, airy, and utterly crunchy, with a superb savoriness to boot. They were delicious alone, but the hot, sweet sauce was the perfect accoutrement, popping and crackling upon being slathered on the fritters.

Pig Ear Nachos [$12.00] | crema poblana, soft egg
Manzke served this a while back at his stint at Test Kitchen, and it sort of blew me away back then. I'm happy to report that the dish is back in full force at PettyCash, and is still the best version of nachos I've ever eaten. The pig ear was clearly the star here: crisp, chewy, and undeniably pork-y little slivers that balanced beautifully against the zesty nuances of the cilantro and crema, while the chilies added just a whisper of heat to things. If that wasn't enough, the egg imparted further luxuriousness to the dish (a runny egg makes everything better right?), making for a delectable amalgam of tastes and textures. A must try.

Cook Ranch Pork Ceviche [$9.00] | nopales, pickled red onion, avocado
Now this was a new one: pork, but in ceviche form. I didn't even know you could do that. The dish really turned out quite well though. I loved the texture on the meat, which was firm, yet supple, yielding. It was almost like a dense fish, and indeed, functioned just the same here, serving as a great base on which the countervailing flavors of cactus, onion, and avocado could really dance. Give it a shot.

Kanpachi Ceviche [$17.00] | tomatillo, avocado
Following up on the pork was a much more conventional ceviche featuring kampachi. The fish was great texturally, and the sour, tangy, yet slightly sweet flavors were classic in essence, yet undeniably effective.

Aguachile en Molcajete [$12.00 + $9.00 + $6.00 + $8.00 + $9.00 + $12.00] | homemade clamato, wild Sonoran chiltepin
Next, Manzke sent out an impressive molcajete (or mortar) filled with aguachile and a number of mariscos: Kanpachi, Kumamoto Oysters, Littleneck Clams, Octopus, Gulf White Prawns, and Live Santa Barbara Prawn. I quite liked the presentation, with the sweet-spicy-sour broth balancing and highlighting the distinct, ocean-y flavors of the seafood, each of which contributed to the textural mélange here. Pairing with the aguachile was a delightful mason jar of bichi, an intense, multifaceted, and quite profound seafood broth that provided a palpable heft to go with the levity and whimsy of the main dish.

Fly by Night [$8.00] | Petty Cash scotch medley, Saler's gentiane, King's ginger, angostura, peychaud bitters, grapefruit twist
Naturally, we had to try each of the seven cocktails on the menu, the first of which arrived "on draft." It really was like nothing that you'd expected from a Mexican joint; in fact, I'd had a handcrafted version of it not long ago at Sotto! Redux notwithstanding, this was a weighty, boozy concoction that deftly played the base of Scotch against the citrus-y, bittersweet, and spicy influences present. Nice.

Cheesy Churros [$5.00] | green mole-corn dip
The popular cheesy churros tasted exactly as advertised, giving us the crisp, yet creamy texture of a churro, with a savory tinge. I actually enjoyed eating them alone, but my dining companions appreciated the slight sweetness in the accompanying dip.

Deep Fried Quesadilla [$8.00] | white prawns, cabbage, roasted tomato sauce
A deep-fried quesadilla was a fun little dish. For me, the prawns here were more for texture, with the quesadilla showing off sort of a general savory character that paired in classic fashion with the smoky, spicy salsa and light, crisp shards of cabbage. Tasty.

Oaxacan Old Fashioned / Petty Cash Margarita / Banana Hammock

Oaxacan Old Fashioned / Petty Cash Margarita / Banana Hammock

Oaxacan Old Fashioned [$8.00] | Reposado tequila, Oaxacan mezcal, house agave, angostura bitters, orange oil
Petty Cash Margarita [$10.00] | blanco tequila, lime, citrus-spiked agave nectar
Banana Hammock [$10.00] | Petty Cash rum blend, banana infusion, fresh lime, tamarind, cassia, dehydrated banana chip
The second "draft" cocktail, the Oaxacan Old Fashioned, was a south-of-the-border riff on the classic, with the smoky weight of the mezcal forming the main thrust in the drink, set off against the citrus notes present. The requisite Petty Cash Margarita, meanwhile, was pretty much a standard version of the traditional cocktail, but with the addition of agave nectar. It was actually quite delicious and well-integrated, with a lovely balance of sweet and sour nuances over a base of tequila. Last up was the whimsically-named Banana Hammock, which was as tropical as its name (and appearance) would suggest, with a marked banana fruitiness joined by a good amount of sweet, aromatic spice--definitely deserving of its umbrella.

'Pocho Style'

"Pocho Style" [$7.00] | flour tortilla, zucchini flower, jack cheese, crema
Next up was an expert rendition of the ubiquitous "American" style quesadilla. It was a comforting, familiar dish, with a delightful cheesiness to it that paired well with the slight crunch of the four tortilla, all while the crema offered up a countering tanginess to things.

Al Pastor [$4.00] | adobo-chile rubbed pork shoulder, onions, avocado
Our first set of tacos brought us the al pastor, which gave us some tasty bits of chile-imbued pork that worked well enough against the piquant counterpoints of onion and avocado. My concern was that texturally, the meat just sort of blended in with everything else, and needed to stand out more. In terms of consistency, the star here was the tortilla, a blend of supple and crispy that really made my day.

Dorados

Dorados [$4.00] | crispy rolled potato tacos, avocado, tomatillo, cotija cheese
The tacos dorados were reminiscent of the flautas that I sometimes pick up from my local Mexican joint, not necessary a bad thing mind you (especially since they're basically the same price!). It was a classic interpretation of the taquito in effect, a blend of a savory potato filling and super crunchy tortilla wrapper that made absolute sense when taken with the avocado and shredded cabbage on top.

Baja Fish Taco [$4.00] | beer-battered pacific sea bass, pico de gallo, cabbage
The taco de pescado, meanwhile, was undoubtedly one of our favorites. It basically amounted to a completely traditional fish taco, but one that was superbly presented, with the fish really taking center stage, yet matching perfectly with its various accompaniments

The Obligatory Vodka Drink / Nacho Libre

The Obligatory Vodka Drink / Nacho Libre

The Obligatory Vodka Drink [$9.00] | Vodka, fresh lime, rose water, ginger, candied rose petal
Nacho Libre [$10.00] | pisco, lime, caramelized pineapple syrup, Jamaichael Jordan, egg white, creole bitters
Buck Dynasty [$10.00] | your choice of spirit, lime, house fermented ginger beer
Our last round of cocktails brought us the last three on the list. The aptly-named Obligatory Vodka Drink (is vodka the red-headed stepchild of the liquor world now?) was better than most fortunately, with a refreshing ginger tang to go along with the aromatic qualities of the rose. The Nacho Libre, meanwhile, was quite intriguing, featuring a wonderfully sweet, spicy, floral base of Jamaichael Jordan (hibiscus tea, clove, Mexican cinnamon, raspberry) that reminded one of my dining companions of a "wax candle." Last up was the Buck Dynasty, which came in our choice of base spirit. Naturally, we let the bartender decide, and were given mezcal. It wouldn't be the first liquor to come to mind for me, but it actually worked out really well, with the booze imparting a smoky undercurrent to the drink that melded seamlessly with the bright, sour tastes at play.

Cook Ranch Pork Carnitas [$4.00] | salsa verde, guacamole
Getting back to the tacos, the carnitas variety was very, very pork-y, with a surprising intensity to it that was set off beautifully by the piquancy of the salsa and guac. Texturally though, I would've liked some crispy bits as well, as those browned edges are certainly part of the joy of eating carnitas.

Charcoal Grilled Octopus [$4.00] | chile de arbol, peanuts, jack cheese
The "Kraken" was probably the dish most literally translated from Kokopelli's repertoire, and for good reason it seems. It was one of my favorites of the night, with the octopus arriving just tender enough, with a lovely char and a palpable potency to it, gorgeously foiled by the spicy pricks from the arbol chile. If you get only one taco, make it this.

Charcoal-Roasted Portobello Mushroom [$4.00] | asparagus, jack cheese, pipian
I don't think I'd ever had mushroom as a taco filling before, which, after eating this, is a shame. The earthy, salty, savory character of the portobello was nicely conveyed here, keenly moderated by the slivers of asparagus thrown in, while texturally, the 'shrooms were spot on as well. A very appealing vegetarian option.

Prime Beef Striploin Carne Asada [$4.00] | refried beans, guacamole
The carne asada taco, unfortunately, was my least favorite of the bunch, as I found that the meat itself actually got overshadowed by the other components here. The beef really needed to be the hero in the dish, but got a bit lost among the beans and avocado.

Mezcal / Sotol / Raicilla

With the cocktails out of the way, we made sure to sample PettyCash's much-bandied about artisanal Mexican spirits program. We began with some Minotauro mezcal (3,000L/year production) from Tuitán, Durango that's made from the cenizo maguey. You know you're in some serious company when this non-Oaxacan mezcal is the mildest of the bunch, but that was the case here. The smokiness was still there of course, but there was also a distinct earthy flair to it, along with a surprising smoothness. Also from Durango was La Valentina sotol, made from the non-agave desert spoon. It's the stuff in the huge 14-gallon jug at the bar, and was almost like a more intense version of the Minotauro to me. Finally, we tasted the Tlacuache raicilla, of which only 1,000 litres are produced yearly from the agave Valenciana plant. Hailing from Jalisco, this was probably my favorite of the bunch, with its sweeter, more complex, multifaceted character. Overall, a worthwhile exploration into some lesser known, handmade Mexican spirits--note though, that these craft liquors do not come cheap, each ringing in at $25 a pop.

Crispy Brussels Sprouts [$7.00] | morita-cauliflower crema
With the tacos dispensed with, we went back to the menu and requested everything that we'd not had already. The Brussels sprouts were first up, a commendable preparation of one of my favorite veggies. I loved their almost over-the-top savoriness that transitioned to a brilliant bitterness on the close, with the entire process tempered by the creamy, spicy base of chipotle crema. My only complaint was that I wanted bigger chunks of the sprouts, to better appreciate their texture.

'Roof Top' Baby Green Salad

"Roof Top" Baby Green Salad [$8.00] | cucumber, radish, pepitas, sungold tomatoes, avocado-lime dressing
I'm not much of a salad eater, but the version here was surprisingly to my liking. The bright, crisp, refreshing snap of the vegetables was spot on really, a welcomed respite from the heavier flavors that we'd been enjoying. I especially appreciated the nuttiness of those pepitas, as well as the creamy, enveloping tang of the dressing. The Cielo Verde garden lives on!

Baby Beets [$8.00] | grilled corn, black quinoa, kale, tamarind, pistachio, cotija cheese
Regular readers will know that I'm not a fan at all of beets, and unfortunately, this didn't do much to change my disinclination. The elements here, individually, made sense to me, but things just didn't come together with the beets as the main ingredient.

Guacamole [$8.00]
Our final course of the night brought us a near-perfect rendition of guacamole, one that really did a nice job in showing off the avocado itself. I wish we would've started with this!

'Dirty' Horchata / Damn Handsome Cold Brew Coffee

'Dirty' Horchata / Damn Handsome Cold Brew Coffee

"Dirty" Horchata [$4.00] | long grain brown rice, pecans, Chinese cinnamon, evaporated milk
Damn Handsome Cold Brew Coffee [$4.00] | La Granja rancho, Columbia, full-body, on tap (try loco-style w/Horchata)
Unfortunately, there's no dessert menu to speak of at the moment, but from what I understand, Margarita Manzke will be implementing one in the near future. That being said, we had to make do this evening with some liquid "desserts." Make sure to get the horchata, as it just might've been the best example I'd ever tasted, with a flawless balance of sugary and spicy that went down so easy. The coffee, as the name implies, was damn tasty as well, and I'm not even a coffee drinker.

Walter Manzke, Oso Campos, Bill Chait

Guillermo 'Oso' Campos Moreno, Marisol, Walter Manzke

The PettyCash team, comprising Walter Manzke, "Oso" Campos, Bill Chait, and tortilla maestra Marisol. Not pictured: Bill Esparza (who vanished temporarily during the photo opp).

I do miss Playa, but PettyCash seems like a worthy restaurant to fill that void. It's more casual than its predecessor, both in terms of the food and the vibe, and cheaper to boot. I don't want to see everybody going in that direction, but for the location, I think it'll do well, sort of hitting a sweet spot that'll hopefully give it a bit more lasting power. Case in point: one of my dining companions said that he wished the place was closer to home, so he could go after work. That being said, some may decry PettyCash as not being authentic, but that's sort of missing the point. It was never Manzke's or anyone else's goal to be truly authentic. It's more like Mexican-inspired, with varying degrees of inspiration depending on the dish, and in fact, I think the kitchen's at its best and most intriguing when they wander a bit further away from strict Mexican sensibilities. That "improvisation" is what I liked the most about the place, and I'd love to see further exploration of that arena (as well as reservations!). In any case, "Oso" will be here for a few more weeks to make sure everything's going alright before returning home, and as for Chef Manzke, he's still busy at work on Republique, which is slated to debut in the old Campanile space later this year. I hope we haven't seen the last of John Sedlar, either.

Night+Market Restaurant
9041 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
310.275.9724
www.nightmarketla.com
Thu 05/30/2013, 07:50p-10:10p

When I first visited Night+Market back in March 2011 shortly after it opened, I was a lil' wowed. Kris Yenbamroong's cooking was unlike any other Thai that I'd had before, a modern, hyper-regional exploration of his country's cuisine that was only made possible by the carte blanche that he'd been given in his new, minimalist space adjacent to his parents' old-line Thai joint Talesai. I knew he had something special here, a game-changer. I expected the place to catch on, but I'm not sure if anyone envisioned N+M to blow up as much as it has, and by blow up, I mean that shit cray. Let's recap:

Oct 2011: Jonathan Gold writes an enthusiastic review of the restaurant. I like to think that I was one of the first to publicize the place, but it was the Goldster who really kicked off the Night+Market train.
Nov 2011: Night+Market quickly secures a place on Gold's list of 99 Essential Restaurants.
Jan 2012: Kris starts writing for the Huffington Post.
Feb 2012: Kris becomes a semifinalist for James Beard's Rising Star Chef of the Year award.
Apr 2012: In celebration of Songkran, Kris cooks in New York at Soho House with Christina Topsoe and James Murphy (LCD Soundsystem).
May 2013: Following in the footsteps of David Chang, René Redzepi comes to LA and dines at N+M. Boom.
Jun 2012: Josh Ozersky calls out Kris in his Time piece Talented, Young and Asian American.
Jun 2012: Refinery29 deems the Chef one of LA's 30 Under 30.
Jul 2012: Night+Market is featured in Bon Appétit and is likened to "LA's Pok Pok."
Aug 2012: Los Angeles Magazine chooses Kris as one of their Chefs of the Year.
Sep 2012: Kris goes to New York again to cook at City Grit and Meatopia.
Sep 2012: Anthony Bourdain eats at Night+Market with none other than Jonathan Gold.
Oct 2012: Kris redefines "food porn" by cooking with former adult film starlets Ashley Blue (Oriana Small) and Zoe Voss (Melissa Kimbro) for Hustler magazine.
Feb 2013: Kris becomes a semifinalist for James Beard's Rising Star Chef of the Year award, again (oh snap).
Feb 2013: Director Francis Ford Coppola dines at N+M; J.Gold's in the house, natch.
Feb 2013: With Besha Rodell at the helm, N+M once again appears on LA Weekly's list of 99 Essential Restaurants.
Mar 2013: Kris is named one of the Best New Chefs in California by Food & Wine, alongside Jordan Kahn, Ari Taymor, and Mike Voltaggio.
Apr 2013: In celebration of Songkran, Night+Market hosts Pok Pok's Andy Ricker, one night only.
May 2013: Jonathan Gold lists Night+Market as the 17th best restaurant in Los Angeles, right ahead of Bestia.

Not bad for a former film student with no formal training right?

Night+Market's menu remains much the same, a meat-centric celebration of ostensibly street food-inspired Thai cookery. I don't think items such as the pig tail, pork toro, sausages, or the wonderfully pungent kao kluk gapi will ever leave (nor should they), but I did spy newbies such as the nam prik ong and larb lanna. The Chef's newest inspirations, though, can be viewed on the hand-written specials menu that you should probably order (heavily) from. The wine list, meanwhile, is as cool and esoteric and reasonably-priced as it's always been, though I did notice that the number of Rieslings has doubled (to two). Click for larger versions.

Pascal Potaire Touraine Les Capriades Piège à Filles Rosé

Pascal Potaire Touraine Les Capriades Piège à Filles Rosé

Speaking of cool, esoteric, and reasonably-priced wines, we went baller style and ordered a magnum of the piège à filles rosé "girl trap" (bubbly côt/malbec), les capriades, loire '11 [$79]. It's one of the pétillant naturels that Yenbamroong's pushing right now, and he's right on the money. He describes it as "bubbly party time wine," and that's basically what it is. Think fun, breezy, and fruity, yet crisp, citrus-y, acidic, and dry, with just enough depth to make it a bit more than a mere summer quaffer.

koi tuna [$12.00] | raw. isan tuna ceviche. *spicy*
We delved right into the specials menu with a tuna version of the popular koi soy steak tartar. The fish was pounded into submission here, a smooth, silky, subtle base on which the amalgam of bright, acidic, and yes, fiercely spicy nuances could be heard. I loved the fragrant zing of the herbs here, which lent a modicum of levity to the in-yo-face flavors at play.

nam kao tod [$9.00] | crispy rice salad w/ spicy sour pork, ginger, chile, peanuts...
Nam kao tod is probably one of my favorite Thai specialties of all time, one that I first discovered at my local haunt Renu Nakorn. Night+Market's was like an amped up version of that, a bolder, lustier presentation that nonetheless shows off a faultless mélange of contrasting tastes and textures. That uncompromising balance is what gets me about the dish every time, a hodgepodge of disparate elements--sour, savory, spicy--that manages to work in perfect concert.

pad pak kanaa [$9.00] | chinese broccoli sautéed w/ garlic & chile
Yenbamroong's not really known for his facility with vegetables, instead focusing his efforts on more porcine pursuits, but the Chinese broccoli served tonight was stellar, probably the best presentation of the ingredient that I've had in fact. There was a fantastic crunch and bite to the kai lan, and its trademark bitterness was proudly showcased, flawlessly countered by the dark, savory flavors here, all while a creeping heat underscored the dish.

pork toro [$7.00] | grilled fatty hog collar. with 'jaew' northeastern chile dip
The pork "toro" has firmly established itself as one of Night+Market's signature dishes, and it's obvious why. It's an uncommon preparation of pig, unabashedly pork-y on the palate, with a springy, spongy consistency that seems to ooze fat when bitten into. All that richness is fortunately tempered by a tinge of char astringency, as well as the blast of piquancy from that jaew condiment. I still think this should be renamed pork kamatoro...

sai uah | chiengrai herb sausage & sai krok isaan | isaan sour sausage

sai uah | chiengrai herb sausage [$6.00] | w/ noom salsa, cucumber
sai krok isaan | isaan sour sausage [$6.00] | fermented pork sausage. eat w/ raw cabbage, chile, peanuts. served a lil pink on the inside
The kitchen then sent out a duet of Night+Market's housemade sausages. The sai uah variety was wonderfully gritty and rustic, a hit of salty and spicy flavors beautifully countered by the liberal application of various herbs. Tasty alone, but even better when taken with a dab of noom, a slice of cucumber, and a couple slivers of ginger--the perfect bite. Sai krok Isaan, meanwhile, arrived in spherical form, a jolt of sour, ferment-y goodness that's probably not for everyone. It was, though, definitely for me, as I reveled in the tanginess of the meat and how it melded so seamlessly with the crunchy bits of peanut and bird eye chile.

panang en neua [$14.00] | beef tendon panang w/ roti
Phanaeng curry is a relatively common sight on Thai menus, but the version here really stands heads and shoulders above any others I've had. The meat was so, so tender, with a marked beefiness that went superbly with the wonderful aromatics and subtly sweet nuances in the dish. And damn, that roti flatbread was something else too; it's good enough to be offered separately as a side.

beef grapow [$11.00] | chile, garlic, thai basil. topped with a crispy fried egg
I'm not gonna lie; we ordered this because of the fried egg (it makes everything better right?). It was much more than just the egg though. The star of the show here was the namesake kraphao, or Thai holy basil, which lent a delightfully aromatic flair to the beef, making for a much more honest, less watered-down version of the dish than you typically find. The egg was just the icing on the cake.

mango and sticky rice [$8.00]
For dessert, the Chef gave us what amounted to probably the best khao niao mamuang I've had. We're right in the midst of mango season, and fruit was spot on--dense, juicy, supple, and sweet--and went perfectly with the sticky rice. However, what really set this apart for me were the savory, crunchy crumbles of mung bean atop the rice, which added that extra bit of kick that took the dish over the top.

ice cream sandwich [$4.50]
We ended with pretty much my favorite ice cream sandwich ever, one that married coconut ice cream, coconut sticky rice, condensed milk, evaporated milk, and toasted mung beans in a sweet roll. The multifaceted sweetness here was maaahvelous, a tour de force of coconut-y goodness that paired gorgeously with the slight char of the bread, all while the mung beans added a fantastic crispness to the dessert. An absolute must try.

The accolades that Yenbamroong's experiment in aharn klam lao has garnered are well deserved. But even if you look past all that, there's some damn fine cooking going on here. The food's as strong as ever; flavors are bold, hearty, and yes, quite spicy at times, a real departure from the formulaic Thai one typically encounters. Night+Market's so of-the-moment it hurts, a beacon of unbridled cookery that's quickly becoming one of the City's destination eateries. Despite all the successes though, the Chef is still confined by the limited space and setup of this location, and as such, is currently building out Night+Market 2.0, which should be debuting in the coming months in the Silver Lake area. More to come...

Connie & Ted's Restaurant
8171 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90046
323.848.2722
www.connieandteds.com
Tue 06/04/2013, 08:00p-11:50p

One of 2013's most anticipated debuts has been a long time coming. News of Michael Cimarusti's reimagined New England clam shack first broke in March last year, and the place is named after the Chef's maternal grandparents, immigrants from England who married in 1940, hence the "est'd" date. Ted was an avid fisherman, and he passed his love of seafood down to his grandson, a fact that's clearly evident in the menu here. You'll find a straightforward selection of traditionally prepared fish and shellfish, executed by Executive Chef Sam Baxter, the former Providence CdC who started his career under Cimarusti at Water Grill. Speaking of Providence alums, David Rodriguez takes up Pastry Chef duties, while Matthew De Marte serves as General Manager. Rounding out the team are partners Donato Poto (a bit hard to recognize in an apron), Craig Nickoloff of Claim Jumper fame, as well as Cimarusti's wife Crisi Echiverri.

Connie & Ted's Interior

Connie & Ted's occupies the site of the old Silver Spoon, though the former building's been completely torn down. The new wavy-roofed, 140-seat structure reads sleek, with a hint of Mid-Century flair, but still pays homage to its fish house roots. Diners inside get a view of the kitchen, but my guess is that tables on the covered patio will be the most coveted.

Connie & Ted's Oyster List and Catch of the Day

Connie & Ted's menu features a wide swath of dishes befitting its inspiration. The raw bar was done proper, with easily the largest selection of oysters I'd ever encountered. Even more appealing were the array of fun, shareable starters, while simply-prepared mains and sandwiches added some heartier fare to the mix. Click for larger versions.

The drinks, meanwhile, didn't take a back seat either. The beer list was commendable to be sure (both bottled and draught), and you'd be remiss if you didn't try some of Laura Lindsay's cocktails. For you winos, there's also a California-centric wine list to choose from. Click for larger versions.

Down East Punch / Ted's Cup / Indian Summer

Down East Punch / Ted's Cup / Indian Summer

Down East Punch [$12.00] | cognac, rum, housemade lamill coffee syrup, whole milk
Ted's Cup [$12.00] | housemade scotch-based liqueur, mint, cucumber, citrus, birch beer
Indian Summer [$12.00] | tequila, cocchi americano rosa, valerian tea, lime, blood orange
We made our way down the cocktail list, beginning with this threesome. The Down East Punch wasn't very punch-like at all, but was really, really good nevertheless, with a wonderfully creamy, coffee-laced flair that tempered the booze flawlessly--this one could be dangerous. Speaking of dangerous, we also had Ted's Cup, which was reminiscent of an adult root beer, with a fantastic sweet, spicy note to it that paired perfectly with the minty overtones present. Last up was the Indian Summer, which showed off a bittersweet, tangy character that transitioned to a savory, almost cheese-like taste on the close, thanks to the valerian.

Connie & Ted's Drag Queen

Hey, we were in West Hollywood after all.

Chef's Choice Platter [$34.00]
Given that there were a whopping 19 oysters on offer, we opted for two orders of the Chef's Choice Platter, specifying that we wanted six varieties so that everyone in our party of four could try one. That point was lost on our server though, and we ended up with two platters of a dozen types each, served with horseradish and mignonette sauce. Here's what I tried:

Malaspina, B.C. - Meaty, salty, but delicate, with a lingering salinity.
Fanny Bay, B.C. - Milder, sweeter, with a brief, clean finish.
Coromandel, B.C. - Creamy, almost buttery in consistency, yet mild in flavor.
Beau Soleil, N.B. - Classic in essence, with a focused, easy-to-like brine.
Cotuit, MA - Very nice, very fruity, very well-balanced.
Sweet Petite, MA - Creamy and subtly sweet, with a bracing freshness--yum.

Overall, an exceptional lot of oysters that made me want to try 'em all.

Jo's Wicked Good Chowda' [$11.00] | New England, Manhattan, Rhode Island clear
Connie & Ted's features three types of chowders, so naturally we had to sample them all. The standard New England variety was prototypical of the style, utterly satisfying and particularly enjoyable when taken with the oyster crackers. The Manhattan variety was sort of the polar opposite, being thinner, with a more pronounced tanginess from the tomato and veggies. My favorite of the troika was actually the Rhode Island version, which gave me the most pronounced clam flavor, but one balanced by the application of potato.

Stuffies [$9.00] | linguiça, garlic, butter, breadcrumbs
Stuffies were tantalizing, with a meaty, spicy kick from the sausage that was easy to like. However, the clams weren't all that apparent, being more pronounced as a textural component here.

Fried Calamari [$9.00] | marinara or sauce Figeroa
Fried squid served as a lovely example of the dish, a deft mix of crunchy and supple textures that was able to demonstrate the inherent goodness of the calamari without overwhelming it with batter. Tasty alone, and even better with a dash of lemon and dab of that tangy Figeroa condiment.

Asparagus au Gratin [$12.00] | roasted asparagus, parmesan cheese, sauce Figeroa
Asparagus was quite fetching, with the bitterness of the spears pairing surprisingly well with the cheesy weight of the Parm, all while the Figeroa added an undercurrent of spice to the dish.

The Dickerson / Catalina Eddy / Royal Treatment

The Dickerson / Catalina Eddy / Royal Treatment

The Dickerson [$12.00] | rye, gran classico, dry vermouth, citrus peel
Catalina Eddy [$12.00] | Jamaican rum, white demerara rum, house made banana cordial, honey, lime
Royal Treatment [$12.00] | gin, dubonnet rouge, lemon
Round #2 got us started with The Dickerson, which just sounds stiff. Indeed it was, but the drink also conveyed a candied sweetness to it that we likened to an apricot-flavored Jolly Rancher! The Catalina Eddy, meanwhile, was definitely tropical-leaning, with a banana-coconut tinge to it that made sense with the weightiness of the rum; I quite appreciated the levity imparted by the mint in this one. Last up was the Royal Treatment, which really showed off the gin against the backdrop of bittersweet, herb-y Dubonnet.

Josephine's Clam Cakes [$10.00] | tartar sauce
Clam cakes were fun and fluffy, with the salinity, as well as the texture of the bivalves really showing through. I didn't mind eating them alone, but a touch of tartar and a sprinkle of lemon made them all the better.

Oysters Rockefeller [$18.00]
Oysters Rockefeller was a straightforward presentation of the New Orleans classic--rich and savory, with a strong vegetal component from the spinach (or parsley?) present. I would've liked the oyster to be more apparent however.

New Bedford Scallop [$23.00] | grilled in its shell with lemon and salted butter
A singular live scallop was spot on, buttery and sweet, with a dense, satisfying bite to it that we all really enjoyed. Beautiful shell on this one as well. Pricey, but worth it.

Sailor's Delight / Narragansett Cooler

Sailor's Delight [$12.00] | dry gin, strawberries, rhubarb, lemon, egg white, soda
Narragansett Cooler [$12.00] | bourbon, orange juice, ginger ale
Our last two cocktails brought us the Sailor's Delight, which, indeed, was rather delightful, with a juicy, fruity sweetness that melded seamlessly with the egg white and gin. The unfortunately-named Narragansett Cooler, finally, I found quite refreshing, with a citrus-y, somewhat herbaceous zing that was unabashedly gluggable, perfect for those summer nights on the Rhode Island coast.

Deviled Oysters [$18.00]
Creamy, salty, a lil' spicy, and utterly delicious, with the oyster still shining through despite the accoutrements. One of the best presentations of cooked oyster I've had, in fact.

Angels on Horseback [$18.00]
Tonight was actually my first time having this whimsically-named dish, which comprises bacon-wrapped oysters atop bread. The natural salinity of the oyster was really quite pronounced here, and worked well with the saltiness of the bacon, all while the toast served as a sort of moderating base to the course.

Nancy's Peeky Toe Crab Cake [$12.00] | cole slaw, tartar sauce
The crab cake arrived rather thin. Though it didn't look like much, the sweet, ocean-y relish of the crab was nicely displayed here, not overly hidden by the requisite filler. Great slaw here as well.

With the cocktails all drunk up, we moved on to beer, specifically the Brouwerij West, Dog Ate My Homework, Blackberry Saison [$18], which is brewed right here in Palos Verdes. Despite what you may think, this wasn't a sweet beer. Rather, the dry, refreshing crispness of the base saison really made itself known initially, with the sugary berry nuances creeping up only on the finish.

Wild White Mexican Shrimp [$25.00] | grilled, scampi butter, heirloom squash
I usually shy away from cooked shrimp, but these were quite to my liking. Texturally, they were totally on point--not overdone, with a firm, snappy, springy consistency--while tastewise, I loved their sheer salinity, augmented by that wonderfully aromatic butter and hints of astringent char.

Fried Pacific Oyster [$15.00] | cole slaw, spicy mayo
A fried oyster sandwich was a pretty much flawless presentation of the dish. The oysters themselves gave us a perfect blend of crunchy and creamy consistencies, while their signature brine was proudly conveyed as well. The mayo and slaw formed fitting counterpoints to the seafood, and the sweet bread (baked in-house, natch) here worked wonders too.

Lobster Roll [$20.00] | hot drawn butter or mayonnaise
I think you pretty much have to get the lobster roll here, and we ended up with the cold version. The lobster itself arrived in sizeable, satisfying chunks, firm, yet springy to the bite, with a great blend of sweet, saline, and subtly spicy flavors. It worked beautifully with the buttery bread here, making for yet another laudable version for us Angelenos to try. The fries were lovely as well, sort of like In-N-Out's, but thicker, crisper, and better.

Our second beer was the Cismontane, Holy Jim Falls EPA [$11], from down in Rancho Santa Margarita. I really liked this one, finding it superbly crisp and well balanced, with bitter, aromatic, hoppy nuances leading to a grassy, lingering finish.

Grilled Catch of the Day [$23.00] | True Cod, Massachusetts
For our catch of the day, we chose Massachusetts cod, prepared "Plain & Simple." "Herb Crust" and "Herb Oil and Lemon" are also options, but we wanted the fish to shine here, and that it did. It was a pretty much flawless preparation of cod, with the fish coming out moist, dense, and flaky, with a mild savor that was superbly countered by the astringent char of the skin. Simple, yet uncompromisingly effective. The dish also came with a choice of side, and we opted for the Macaroni & Cheese, which was nicely balanced, though it could've been more al dente to the bite.

Ed's Portuguese Fish Stew [$22.00] | hake, manilla clams, mussels and linguiça
The fish stew was also to my liking, with the saline notes from the seafood tied together by the tanginess of the tomato broth, all while the sausage added a wonderful spice and savoriness to underscore the course. I also enjoyed the potatoes here, which served to temper some of the stronger flavors at play while adding textural differentiation and heft to things.

New England Boiled Dinner [$26.00] | mussels, steamers, lobster, linguiça, potatoes, steamed corn
Next was Connie & Ted's homage to the classic New England Clam Boil. It was a rustic, home-y sort of dish, with the various items of seafood beautifully presented, their sweet, briny flavors dutifully displayed, and the linguiça once again providing a delightful whisper of heat. I especially appreciated the broth here, which was positively imbued with the essence of the ocean, perfect for sopping up with some leftover bread. You should probably get this.

Hollywood Jesus (Kevin Lee Light)

Hell, even Hollywood Jesus made it out.

Bone-In Angus Rib Eye [$42.00] | char-grilled, maitre d' butter, fries
I'm happy to report that Connie & Ted's can produce a fine steak as well, if seafood's not your thing (but then why would you be here?).

Classic American desserts are the work of David Rodriguez. Click for larger versions.

Strawberry Rhubarb Pie [$9.00] | a la mode
The pairing of strawberry and rhubarb seems to be showing up on menus more and more often these days, but damn, it works. Here, we had a sugary, almost jammy sweetness from the combo that functioned seamlessly with the crust, all while the ice cream offered up a bit of countervailing lightness.

Rocky Road Brownie [$9.00] | chocolate ice cream and hot fudge sauce
A Rocky Road brownie was exactly like you'd expect: sweet, rich, and nutty, a bonanza for you chocolate lovers out there.

Indian Pudding [$8.00] | classic new england cornmeal and molasses pudding with vanilla ice cream
Though this dessert was originally inspired by the use of native American cornmeal (hence the "Indian" in the name), it actually showed off a sweet spice that made me think of India Indian.

House-Made Ice Cream [$8.00] | wet nuts
Cimarusti insisted that we try his wet nuts, so here we had a standard vanilla ice cream, but topped with a commixture of walnuts and syrup. It was surprisingly delicious, especially given that I'm not a fan of walnuts, with the intensely sweet, yet nutty topping working hand-in-hand with the ice cream.

Blondie

Blondie [$9.00] | vanilla ice cream and salted caramel sauce
To conclude the meal, the Chef sent out a Blondie, which is basically a brownie minus the chocolate. It was fantastic, my favorite of the bunch, with the salty caramel pairing gorgeously with the confection. A must try.

Michael Cimarusti and Crisi Echiverri

Michael Cimarusti with his better half and business partner, Crisi Echiverri.

I've heard some people bemoan the fact that Cimarusti's opened up "yet another" traditionalist seafood type joint, but when you achieve something on the level of Providence, I think you can pretty much do whatever the hell you want. The place is indeed off to a strong (and very busy--it was jam packed most of the evening) start. Though there were a couple service quibbles on this opening night, the food itself was almost all on point, yielding familiar, comforting sensations that nonetheless displayed the deft touch that you'd expect from a brigade that cut its teeth at the pinnacle of fine dining in Los Angeles. You could tell that there was a certain finesse, a certain clarity of flavors to the cooking here, making for a worthy sophomore effect from one of the City's most respected chefs.

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