kevinEats

Saam at The Bazaar
465 S La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
310.246.5555
www.thebazaar.com/beverly-hills-saam
Thu 08/22/2013, 08:00p-12:50a

Ever since my first visit back in 2009, Saam has remained my preferred way to dine at The Bazaar, as it affords patrons a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of the main dining room and instead presents a more serene experience focused almost solely on what's on the plate. Given that I quite enjoyed my last meal here, I'm a bit surprised that it's taken me over four years to return, but here I am. Back then, Michael Voltaggio was still in charge, but Saam is now run by Holly Jivin, with assistance from Barcelona native Aitor Zabala (Assistant Director of R&D for José Andrés' Think Food Group) as well as The Bazaar's main chef Joshua Whigham.

Saam's menu is usually 22 courses at $120 a head (with an optional $100 beverage pairing), but tonight we opted for an extended tasting priced at $160 for 29 courses. Click for a larger version.

1: Kaviar Kir Royale
As always, a meal at Saam begins with a welcoming cocktail, and tonight it was a riff on the Kir Royal made with Cava, crème de cassis, and crème de cassis spherifications. It was a fitting apéritif, classic in essence, with the sweetness of the blackcurrant working well with the dry, crisp nature of the sparkling wine.

2: Peking Dumpling
One of the highlights of the meal for me were these cotton candy dumplings stuffed with hoisin and chicharrón, then topped with microcilantro and gold foil. The sweet-savory interplay here was pretty genius, and I loved the herby overtones present as well, which served as the perfect exclamation point to the course. Definitely a "wow" factor here.

Peanut

3: Peanut
The "peanuts" were actually comprised of praline and red Thai curry in a sugar shell, dusted with lime zest and ginger. Think fun, nutty, crunchy, and sweet, with just a hint of piquancy from the curry and a whisper of ginger-y tang.

4: Parmesan Pie
The world's smallest pie was composed of a Parmesan crisp, Parmesan cream, and basil. I really liked this one, with its mildly savory nuances on the attack leading to stronger, cheesier notes toward the back end, all with the herb adding an overarching, countervailing aromatic component to the bite. Yum.

5: Nuts & Yogurt
Here were "ravioli" of pistachio and pine nut encased in rice paper, all set in a yogurt powder. I first tried the pistachio variation, and found it creamy and tangy, with a surprisingly subtle undercurrent of nuttiness. The pine nut version was more interesting, with a particularly intriguing depth to it, but overall, the flavors didn't meld as much as I was hoping for.

Instead of going with the standard wine pairing, we opted for bottles given our large party size (a dozen people). Starting things off was the 2003 Viura, Viña Gravonia, Rioja, R. López de Heredia. I quite liked this one, finding its oxidative quality a fantastic counterpoint to the dry, nutty character of the wine. Surprisingly refreshing, with just a hint of fruit toward the back.

6: Oyster & Jamon
Next, a combo of savory ham, bright cilantro, and tangy lime segments formed a fitting complement to the inherent salinity of the Luna oyster. Particularly satisfying when taken with the paired wine.

7: Ibérico Arlette
This curious looking course was an Ibérico cracker dusted with gold and thyme. It was very light on the palate initially, with the savoriness of the ham only coming through toward the lingering finish, though I would've liked the lushness and unique character of the Jamón to have been more readily apparent here--it was a bit too subtle.

8: Cod & Honey
Cod espuma was wrapped in brik dough, then topped with a line of honey-truffle purée. This was another winner, with the earthy, unabashedly sugary nature of the condiment working wonders against the creamy, fishy base of the dish.

9: Yeye's Carrot
This faux carrot was comprised of a carrot meringue hiding a carrot-ginger sorbet, all garnished by sea grass. It was a classic pairing of the sweet-n-spicy ingredients, and I found the dissolving nature of the meringue particularly interesting here, though quite a few members of my dining party didn't care for this one at all.

10: Carrot & Coconut
Sticking with the carrot theme, here was a dish of coconut-cauliflower purée, nasturtium, coconut crisps, carrot air, and fermented carrot. It was positively fascinating, a lovely mélange of disparate textures and contrasting bright, savory, spicy, and sweet flavors that were almost Asian-y in essence when eaten together (even recalling Korean namul with one of my dining companions).

Keeping with the oxidative bent, next was the 2008 Orange Pinot Grigio, Ram, Venizia Giulia, Italy, Malina. This was to my liking as well, with a smooth, soft fruitiness to go along with the more austere flavors present.

11: Avgotaraho
Here, in a nod to the Greek mullet roe dish of the same name, we had sturgeon roe and burrata in a seared bun, topped with a sprinkle of Maldon. It was a tasty morsel, salty and heavy and satisfying, though I would've preferred a slightly lighter, smaller bun.

12: Teriyaki Rib
Just about the daintiest rib ever featured the sushi staple of kanpachi, joined by wasabi, red curry, and black sesame. It was a delectable offering, with the sweet, smoky nuances here playing well with the ocean-y flavors of the amberjack. I'd have no problem demolishing an entire rack of this!

13: Uni Mango
Arguably my favorite course of the night was this reimagined nigirizushi. We had uni, of course, over a mango sphere, with yuzukosho, cilantro flower, and nori. The key here was how the sweetness of the fruit melded flawlessly with the complementary flavors of the sea urchin, forming a complex of sugary, briny goodness that was dutifully tempered by the umami-laced relish (as well as crunch) of the seaweed on the finish. Masterful.

L'Eggo

14: L'Eggo
Next, a throwback to my childhood favorite Legos, reinvented here as a sort of Negroni, one composed of Campari, orange, and orange zest. It was a bright, bracing bite, with a deft blend of sour and bittersweet flavors that definitely jolted the palate.

Chicken 'Ham'

15: Chicken "Ham"
Eight-hour cured chicken was accompanied by prawn praline, figs, black garlic, and everyone's favorite, chicken skin. It was an unconventional, but effective combo, sweetish at first, with the savoriness of the bird coming through strong toward the close, all with a sort of overarching, moderating herbiness.

16: Garbanzo con Jamón
A potage of garbanzo came with jamón cream and parsley purée. I found it hearty and garlicky, with an almost ramen-like savoriness and an effective, counterbalancing zing from the parsley.

At this point, we moved on to a beer, the Imperial Black IPA, Dubhe, Urah, Uinta Brewing Co. This one was pretty cool, with plenty of dark, malty, chocolate-y flavors tempered by a great touch of hop bitterness.

17: Dark Egg
Another standout was this sort of reworked century egg, one made of a sous vided yolk spherification encased in a truffle gelatin with Parmesan, all set in an olive oil base and paired with a tableside carbonara sauce. It was all that you'd expect: rich, lush, and luxurious, with the runny goodness of that egg beautifully matched by the heady nuances from the truffle, all while the carbonara served to tie everything together. Delish.

18: Chanterelles
Chanterelles formed a natural pairing for chicken oysters, along with fennel and a mushroom cream. The heady, earthy taste of those 'shrooms made for a seamless complement to the immensely flavorful bird, all while the fennel added a wonderfully zesty foil to the dish.

19: Norwegian Lobster
Langoustine was super briny, really tasting of the ocean with a subtle sweetness to it that worked hand-in-hand with the tempering potato espuma, all while the paprika added just a tinge of spice to the dish.

Our sole red wine was the 2001 Rioja, España, Reserva Señorío de P. Peciña. This one had some nice age on it, and showed off pleasingly tart, but silky fruit notes bound by some mild tannins and a nice bit of earthiness and alcohol toward the end.

20: Spanish Octopus
Poached octopus was accompanied by piquillo, corn, aioli, guindilla pepper, and nasturtium. The tentacle tended toward mild, and I would've liked more of a savory, charred (and crisp) character to it, though the Spanish influenced flavor combinations definitely made sense.

21: Sturgeon with Sturgeon
Another favorite of mine was the sturgeon, which arrived wrapped in pancetta and topped with Almas Ara caviar and sprigs of sea grass. The fish was really a shining example of sturgeon: soft and succulent, with a wonderfully salty character to it that I found immensely satisfying. Very nice.

Presenting Lamb Shank

The lamb shank for our next course, presented tableside before being taken back to the kitchen and plated.

22: Lamb Shank
For our last savory course, sous vide lamb shank came with eggplant, yogurt, and za'atar. The meat itself was peppery and deep, with an apparent ovine relish to it, thought it really could've stood to be more tender to the bite. That being said, the smoky, creamy notes here really worked with the lamb, and I was especially fond of that yogurt.

'Philly cheesesteak'

"Philly cheesesteak" | Air bread, cheddar, Wagyu beef
At this point, we requested a supplemental course featuring The Bazaar's signature Philly cheese steak. It was hard not to like, a blast of beefy, salty, and cheesy flavors, offset just a bit by the airy nature of the crunchy bread.

To pair with the desserts, we were provided the 2008 Vidal Ice Wine, Canada, Konzelmann. It was just as you'd expect from an ice wine, coming to us viscous and sweet, with loads of stone fruit flavors joined by just a smidge of nutty goodness. Nice!

23: Japanese Baby Peaches
Our first dessert was a variation of a dish that's been on the menu since day one. The sweetness of the peaches was nicely conveyed here, expertly complemented by the savory, nutty notes from the Di Stefano burrata, brioche, and hazelnut praline. Some nice textures here, too.

24: Dragon's Breath
The omnipresent Dragon's Breath (basically a sweet, cool bite of liquid nitrogen-dipped popcorn) was as fun as ever, especially for the newbies in the group.

25: Strawberry Gazpacho
A strawberry gazpacho was tangy and sweet, a refreshing course amplified further by the vanilla, lime, and espelette notes present.

26: ~~Flan~~Desert in the Desert
A bit of a substitution here: the so-called "Desert in the Desert" dessert was served to us in place of the "Flan in the Desert" advertised on the menu. What we had was a chocolate-cardamom ice cream in almond dust, dehydrated cherry, and raspberry purée. There was a lot going on, but everything definitely made sense, with a wonderful sweet spice joined by a multitude of flavors, all offset by a nice crunch to the course.

27: Milk Chocolate & Bergamot
Our final proper course comprised a milk chocolate cremeux, chocolate croquant, pistachio coulis, Greek yogurt, and mandarin oranges. This was a smart reinterpretation of the classic combo of chocolate and orange, all finished with a delightful nutty tint.

White Chocolate Air / Bubble Wrap

28: White Chocolate Air
29: Bubble Wrap
We concluded, fittingly, with our mignardises course. My favorites? The disintegrating white chocolate air and the sweet-nutty, pop rock-infused raspberry explosion bon bons. And to take home: The Bazaar's take on Rice Krispies treats.

It was great to revisit Saam after all this time and see how the restaurant has evolved. To me, the cooking's gotten a little less "molecular" and a bit more ingredient-focused, though the whimsical presentations and inventive flavor combinations remain. The food was as fun and tasty as I remember, and Saam's still one of the most unique dining experiences in LA to be sure. This is the type of place that should be on your bucket list.

Atelier Crenn
3127 Fillmore St, San Francisco, CA 94123
415.440.0460
www.ateliercrenn.com
Fri 08/23/2013, 08:10p-01:10a

My first meal at Dominique Crenn's self-titled eatery--not too long after the place opened--was quite the experience to behold, arguably my best meal of 2011. At the end of that dinner, I predicted Michelin stars for the restaurant, and, not surprisingly, that prognostication came to fruition in 2012 when Crenn got the deuce. Given the strength of my last meal, I was curious to pay Atelier another visit, to see how the place had progressed in the intervening years.

Atelier Crenn's menu format has changed slightly since my last visit. There's now a Signature Menu at $95 along with a ~14 course Chef's Grand Tasting Menu at $180 (the one you want to get), plus $150 a head for wine pairings from Sommelier Ian Burrows. Click for a larger version.

Engelen Tarwe / Teufelweizen / Special Belge

Engelen Tarwe / Teufelweizen / Special Belge

Before the meal, we enjoyed all three beers on Crenn's list. First was the Divine Brewing Co. 'Engelen Tarwe' Triple Ale, Sonoma, California [$10], a slightly skunky, spicy, sour-ish ale with a soft undercurrent of fruit. Its sister beer, the Divine Brewing Co. 'Teufelweizen' Bock-Style Ale, Sonoma, California [$10], showed off a ridiculous amount of head (see photo), and was even better, with a smooth, dark, roasty, chocolate-y character to it that I quite liked. Finally, we sampled the De Ryck 'Special Belge', Belgium [$7], a steely, crisp, dry ale with a pleasant yeasty quality and just a touch of hop bitterness.

1: Kir Breton[Summer has come with its warm breeze]
We commenced with Crenn's signature amuse bouche, a reimagined take on the classic Kir Breton. Apple cider arrived encased in a crème de cassis-topped sphere of white chocolate and cocoa butter, the shell disintegrating near-instantly upon contact with the tongue, unleashing torrents of tart apple flavors that then transitioned to the sugary sweetness of the chocolate. Fun, as well as effective, a great harbinger of things to come.

Oysterleaf

Oyster leaves were zesty little jolts to the palate, really recalling the essence of its namesake bivalve and thus setting the stage wonderfully for our next course...

2: Uni, Caviar, Licorice[Mellow serenades of colors licorice, nature and orange]
Riesling Kabinett 2011, Zilliken 'Rausch', Mosel Valley
...And what a course! Sea urchin torchon was paired with caviar and licorice root, then enveloped in yuzu bubbles. The tang of the citrus was strong on the nose, but transitioned seamlessly to the rich brine of the uni and salty kick of the roe, all while licorice added an almost ethereal spiciness to the dish.

In lieu of bread service, we were instead presented charred buckwheat crackers, smoky and crunchy to the bite.

3: Squid, Iberico, Lardo[Where the broad ocean leans against the Spanish land.]
Gruner Veltliner 2011, Hirsch 'Heiligenstein', Kamptal
Noodles of Japanese squid were fantastic, supple to the bite and mild, but beautifully augmented by the one-two punch of lardo and ibérico, an unabashedly salty, savory duo that melded wonderfully with the heady, integrating truffle broth. One of the highlights of the dinner for me, and a perfect pairing to the accompanying Grüner Veltliner, which itself showed off some delightfully earthy, truffle-y notes as well. Awesome.

4: Shima Aji, Coconut, Cilantro[A gentle smell, oceanic, of yummy feeling]
Sake, Wakatake 'Demon Slayer', Shizuoko
Cured shima aji was another winner, and quite possibly the best rendition of the ingredient I've ever experienced. The fish alone was uncompromisingly clean, delicate, with a subtle brine that went perfectly with the bright cilantro and coconut flavors present--think a distinctly Southeast Asian tinge accented by just a smidge of pepper-y heat. What took this over the top, though, were the tempura'd veggies, which imparted a fantastic savoriness and crunch to the dish that just brought everything together gorgeously. Lovely pairing here too with the Onigoroshi, a smooth, viscous junmai daiginjo with delicious floral-fruity notes on the nose and a creeping bit of alcoholic burn on the back end.

5: Shellfish, Sweetbreads, Phytoplankton[Sitting on top of the dune, feeling of beach sand under my toes]
Chardonnay 2010, Failla 'Estate', Sonoma Coast
This bisque-like potage was another homage to the flavors of Brittany, a part of France that the Chef visited often as a child. It was a mélange of razor clam, Manila clam, pork belly, sweetbreads, and bone marrow dumplings, all accompanied by sea grapes, plankton gel, and a tomato water air. I found it a masterful presentation of the clams' multifaceted brine, paired in genius fashion with the heady, earthy nuances from the offal, while the seaweed offered up a tempering crunch. Hearty and cozy, a great complement to the rich, buttery, grassy Chard that came with.

6: Charred Onion Soup, Comte, Truffle[The half moon, silky and smoky]
Oloroso VORS 1/14, El Maestro Sierra, Jerez
Next up was Crenn's take on the ubiquitous French onion soup. It was classic in essence, with the sweetness of the onion marmalade working hand-in-hand with the Comté dumpling and the slightly smoky notes present, all while an apple cider vinaigrette provided an overarching tartness to the dish that really tied everything together. I was especially fond of the bright, herb-y nuances in the dish, and the paired brioche made for a fitting accoutrement, too.

7: Rhubarb & Ash[Woody and stone]
Here was another whimsical course, sort of a palate cleanser after the intensity of the preceding dishes. We had here a liquid fennel and citrus consommé encased in a stone-like shell, a sweet, tangy explosion of flavors imbued with just a hint of medicinal twang. Sitting below the "rocks" were thin chips that recalled candied ginger.

8: Grains & Seeds, Sturgeon, Dashi[Nature rejoice, chasing childhood memories]
Gewurztraminer, Arista 'Ferrington', Anderson Valley, California
Humble ingredients were the star of the show here--flax seeds, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, quinoa--but they were presented in simply amazing fashion. They were either toasted, roasted, smoked, or fried, and accompanied by trout roe, white sturgeon roe cream, and yuzukosho, all set in a dashi broth. There was just such an incredible depth and profoundness to the seeds, their earthy, nutty savors perfectly balanced by the blasts of salinity from the sturgeon and trout, while herbaceous whispers added a modicum of lightness to the mix. The flavors here were wonderful, but taken with the fantastic textural interplay and hot-cold contrasts in the dish, we have here my favorite course of the night, and quite possibly the best thing I've eaten all year.

9: Fermented Wagyu, Broccoli, Egg Yolk[Wrapped in a yellow blanket]
Cabernet Franc 2012, Lieu Dit, Santa Ynez Valley
Crenn's riff on steak tartar didn't quite reach the lofty heights of the preceding course, but was still one of the strongest preparations of the dish I've had. Wagyu was commingled with sesame and broccoli fermented in sake lees, then rolled in an egg yolk sheet and garnished with a scallion salad. Taken alone, the beef showed off a superb spiciness and earthy depth, with a lovely touch of pepper on the finish. What really made this for me, however, was the scallion, which imparted just a wonderful, offsetting astringency to things that served as the exclamation point. I found this very nice with the paired wine--a bright, perfume-y, utterly vivacious Cab Franc--as well.

10: Mushroom, Pine, Pumpernickel[Walking deep in the woods, as the earth might have something to spare]
Pinot Noir 2007, JK Carriere, Willamette Valley
Arguably the most popular dish at Atelier Crenn, we had here an amalgam of roasted, pickled, and dehydrated mushrooms, Douglas pine meringue, wood sorrel oil, sage, and hazelnut praline, all dusted with pumpernickel-brioche crumbs. It was a complex, multi-angled exploration of earthy, woody flavors, played against the countervailing sweet and bitter thrusts present, with the pine serving as the overarching, integrating force in the dish.

They Have Wood

I noticed that the table beside us was given a superior presentation of the preceding dish, replete with logs in place of the generic plates. That's too bad.

11: Duck, Chocolate, Corn[Birth which gives its morning mystery.]
Brachetto 2012, Sottimano 'Maté', Piedmont
Next was perhaps the most high-concept plate of the evening. We had what I believe was a duck liver pâté underneath a "nest" of corn silk, with puffed rice, pear, apple, vanilla, and finished with porcini-dusted chocolate "twigs," all with a cup of canard consommé on the side. It was a real celebration of duck, with the earthy essence of the bird pairing surprisingly well with its various accoutrements, the sugariness of the chocolate working particularly well as a foil. A bit cerebral, and perfectly washed down by the incredible depth of that consommé.

12: Squab, Summer Squash, Red Currant[Where birds sing and are causing ripples in the nearby water]
Mourvedre Blend 2006, Gros Noré, Bandol
Our final savory course of the evening gave us a smoked-seared squab with squash, mustard, rose, hibiscus, and currant. The bird was as delicious as it looked, with a mouth-watering salt and savor to it that was duly brightened by the crunchy bits of squash here, all while the rose-hibiscus-currant combo imparted a wonderful floral-fruity component to the dish. Excellent counterpoint from the mustard, too.

'Salad'

13: "Salad"[Dotting the fragrant flora]
Traditionally, a salad serves as an intermezzo before dessert in a formal French meal, so we were presented a sort of a deconstructed version here, combining various herbs and flowers in a vinaigrette-Banyuls-olive oil dressing. The bite was sweet, tangy, with a strong celery component, though it didn't quite click for me.

Atelier Crenn Cheese Selection

We opted for a cheese course, which turned out to be a surprisingly pricey proposition at $12.50 per slice. The fromages themselves were spot on, though. We had: Petit Pardou, a four-month-aged Pyrenean varietal; the mild Catalonian goat's milk favorite Garrotxa; the peppery Montenebro, my favorite of the bunch; a delightfully mushroom-y Tomme de Crayeuse; a tangy sheep's milk cheese that I didn't catch the name of; a classically sharp Bleu d'Auvergne; and finally an herby Basque cheese which I don't recall the name of either. Accompaniments were a wild flower honey and chickpea crackers, and we also enjoyed glasses of the Marsala Superiore - DeBartoli 'La Vigna Miccia' [$18] to go along.

Our first pre-dessert was almost verging on Alinea-esque, comprising a test tube of guava consommé, chia, shiso, and finger lime, along with a tab of lemongrass-infused sugarcane. Think fun and fruity, with bursts of tartness from the finger lime vesicles to go along with the sheer sweetness of the cane.

Eucalyptus Pops

Next were Crenn's trademark eucalyptus ice cream pops, this time incorporating menthol. They were even more bracing, more refreshing than before, with an herby sweetness at first giving way to a cool, minty astringency toward the finish.

14: Grape, Hazelnut[Summer has come and is full of sweet surprises]
Jurançon, Möelleux 2011, Clos Uroulat, Gascony
Set in a custom made bisected wine bottle was our main dessert, courtesy of Chef Patissier Juan Contreras. It contained hazelnut ice cream encased in grape skin, Port foam, fresh grape, and baguette with sultanas, all drizzled with saba syrup that was cleverly hidden in a faux cork. The dish served as an exploration of the many faces of grape, and when taken with the hazelnut, made for a tasting experience that was sort of like a cross between a PB&J and a Ferrero Rocher, with a palpable vinous quality to it. I would've liked a bit less bittersweetness here though, so that more of the fruity aspects of the grape could've shown through.

Finally, mignardises arrived in a rather striking serving vessel (replete with moss garden), and consisted of Maldon sea salt caramels, passion fruit marshmallows, strawberry-pink peppercorn pâtes de fruits, almond-pistachio nougats, coffee-milk chocolate ganache "berries" (my favorite), and sesame-chocolate crisps.

Once again, Atelier Crenn is poised to be one of the very top meals of the year, no doubt serving up some of my best bites of 2013. It's obvious that Crenn has grown even more as a chef, with her food coming across as less explicitly "artsy," but just and complex and high-concept. Even better, the cooking's bolder, more confident, while flavors tend toward more intense, more strident, and more focused in general. There really are some great things going in the kitchen here these days, so that next macaron doesn't seem that far out of reach now.

Benu Restaurant
22 Hawthorne St, San Francisco, CA 94105
415.685.4860
www.benusf.com
Sat 08/24/2013, 08:40p-11:30p

Benu Exterior

My dinner at Chef Corey Lee's groundbreaking Benu last year was memorable for two reasons. First, it was arguably my best meal of 2012; and second, it marked the only occasion where I'd forgotten to bring my camera's memory card(!). Given the strength of my experience here, I couldn't let the blog stand with those subpar cell phone pics, so a revisit was in order to give the food its proper due.

Benu's sole menu option this evening was a 17-course degustation priced at $180 per head, plus $150 for the always-superb beverage pairings of Head Sommelier Yoon Ha. Click for larger versions.

1: thousand-year-old quail egg, potage, ginger
prager, grüner veltliner, federspiel, hinter der burg, wachau, austria 2011
We commenced with a course that looked humble, but was anything but. The egg itself was pretty fantastic, a spot on homage to the traditional delicacy, and went superbly with the included potage of bacon, cabbage, and cream, a hearty, comforting liquid that added a bit of heft to the surprising lightness of the pidan. The key here, though, was the use of the traditional accompaniment of ginger, which imparted a brightness that just lifted the entire dish.

2: oyster, pork belly, kimchi
prager, grüner veltliner, federspiel, hinter der burg, wachau, austria 2011
A singular Beau Soleil showed off a masterful interplay between two complementary facets of richness between the belly and the oyster, but with the bivalve always managing to shine through despite the heft of the pork. I also really appreciated the hint of kimchi spice toward the back end, too. A great little bite.

3: salmon roe, eggplant, buckwheat, perilla
matsuura, narutotai, namagenshu ginjo, tokushima, japan
Buckwheat was used to great effect here, imparting a tempering crunch to the smoky, salty combo of ikura and eggplant, while the perilla added well-placed pricks of mintiness to the fray. A harmony of disparate textures and tastes, and one that was particularly apt against the bright, racy flavors of the accompanying namazake.

4: anchovy, celery, peanut
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
Next, we began a procession of four little courses, all presented on the same transparent serving piece and paired with Hitachino's always-satisfying, somewhat-funky Red Rice Ale. The caramelized anchovy was fantastic, capturing the essence of the traditional snack and showing off a deft blend of sweet and fishy flavors that were dutifully moderated by a hit of celery zing, all while the peanut served as the perfect nutty finish.

5: faux shark's fin, dungeness crab, caviar, rousong
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
Chef Lee's famous faux shark's fin soup is off the menu (for now), but the main ingredient was put to good use here. Texturally, the "fin" was fantastic, adding a springy component to the growing intensity of flavors in the course, the sweetness of the crab masterfully offset by the subtle undercurrent of rousong savor.

'xo sausage' with basil curd

6: "xo sausage" with basil curd
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
I was tempted to go Alinea-style here and eat this hands-free, but wisely decided not to. The sausage, enhanced with the qualities of the legendary XO, conveyed a very pleasing depth and savor to it, one that paired just swimmingly with the creamy, herby nuances provided by the basil.

7: acorn beggar's purse with black truffle
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
The last of the foursome was Benu's ode to the signature dish of 80's NYC hotspot Quilted Giraffe. Their beggar's purse came with crème fraîche and caviar, and was itself a riff on the French treat aumonieres. This version might've been even more luxurious: unabashedly savory, lush, and creamy on the palate, with a subtle, yet always apparent overtone of truffle that lasted long on the palate.

multigrain bread, ginseng honey butter

Bread, of course, was also something to behold. The multigrain variety here was wonderfully nutty, smoky even, with a delightfully crisp crust to it. However, the real star was that ginseng-honey butter, which married the zesty notes of the root with a fantastically lush sweetness that just paired with the bread beautifully.

8: almond tofu, green apple, chia seed
Our next course functioned as a sort of intermezzo, its bright, juicy flavors, herbaceous zing, and apple-y crunch providing a bit of a respite from the hefty flavors that we'd been experiencing.

9: cold noodles, pickled hearts of palm, shrimp roe, mint
von hövel, riesling kabinett, sharzhofberger, mosel, germany 2008
Pairing in stellar fashion with the vibrant acidity of the Kabinett Riesling were some of the best cold noodles I've encountered. I loved the umami-rich base of the dish, courtesy of the shrimp, a focused, almost profound thrust of ocean-y goodness that was keenly countered by the light, delicate flavors of the noodles and palm. Even better? The pin pricks of piquancy that were enabled by the use of ginger and mint. I wouldn't have minded going through a big bowl of the stuff!

10: lobster coral xiao long bao
duchesse de bourgogne, flemish red brown ale, belgium
Next, we come to what has become perhaps Lee's most well-known dish, a masterful homage to the humble xiaolongbao. It was just so utterly, ridiculously xiang, an umami explosion (both literally and figuratively) with an incredible depth to it that satisfies in the basest ways possible. I'm not sure if I liked 'em with or without the vinegar (a wonderful foil to the paired Duchesse, by the way), but no matter, I'd love to demolish a whole bamboo basket of these beauties.

11: pig's head with lentil hozön and bönji
duchesse de bourgogne, flemish red brown ale, belgium
Also fantastic with the Duchesse was this schmancy souse, its stupendously porcine quality joined by countervailing hits of ferment-y, tangy, and sweet flavors, the result of the hozon and bonji now being produced by Momofuku frontman David Chang. Perhaps the best head cheese I've ever had.

12: whiting, crispy mushroom, haiga rice, burdock, charred scallion
cuilleron, marsanne, les vignes d'á côté, rhône, france 2012
The whiting, surprisingly, just might've been my favorite course of the evening. The thing that struck me most about the fish was its texture, which I'd describe as firm, but springy, with an almost gelatinous quality to it that I found immensely satisfying. On the palate, it was delicate, nuanced, and really took on the mouthwateringly savory flavors of the accompanying rice, while the scallion added a fantastic jolt of smoke and astringency to the mix. And those mushrooms? Some of the best I've had--perfect.

13a: roast quail, lettuce heart, mustard
cristom, pinot noir, sommer's reserve, willamette valley, oregon 2011
Getting into the more substantial courses now, quail was roasted beautifully, showing off two distinct, yet complementary facets of the bird in flawlessly done breast and leg presentations. Adding to this was a subtle undertone of sweetness that worked out really well, emphasizing the savory qualities of the quail, while the lettuce imparted a fantastically light, charred, counterbalancing quality to the dish. Delish.

Kippin dried abalone

13b: 25 head Kippin abalone from Iwate, 2008, potato purée, tender kale, braising jus [$230 supplement]
el maestro sierra, oloroso sherry, jerez, spain
In place of the quail, diners also had the option of Kippin abalone from Japan's Iwate prefecture, oft considered some of the best in the world. Priced at $230 a pop, it was costlier than the entire rest of the menu, and quite easily the most expensive single dish I've had. The awabi was of the 2008 vintage, and was prepared by braising in a stock of chicken feet and pork neck for 18 hours. The result of all this was the best cooked abalone I've had--meaty and a bit gelatinous to the bite, with a great growing depth and complexity to it that was tempered in part by the potato and greens present. Also of note here was the wine pairing, with the Oloroso coming to us nutty and oxidative, and also super dry on the palate. What was interesting was how the Sherry seemed to become sweeter upon being paired with the mollusk.

14: beef braised in pear juice and charcoal-grilled, lily bulb, sunflower, fermented pepper
clos st. jean, châteauneuf-du-pape, rhône, france 2008
Next, Brandt beef was braised overnight, resulting in a dish that one of my dining companions likened to an "elevated galbi." Texturally, the meat was tender, but not mushy, with still some structure to it, while its dark, bovine flavors worked faultlessly with the sweet-ish sauce and the whisper of spice toward the back end. The lily bulb served to balance out the sheer heft of the meat, and what I liked even more was the use of sunflower seed, which acted as a fantastic accent piece with its nuttiness and crunch.

15: shellfish consommé and raft, Jinhua ham, chrysanthemum
blandy's, verdelho, madeira, portugal 1968
Benu's famed "shark's fin soup" may be off the menu now, but its rather profound broth was put to good use here, serving as a complement to the intensely ocean-y, briny flavors of the shellfish, while the whole shebang concluded with a delightfully peppery tint on the close. The wine pairing here was spot on too, the '68 Madeira conveying a surprisingly youthful exuberance with its trademark oxidative, nutty, and raisin-y qualities.

16: sake lees sherbet, strawberry, yuzu
The sweet stuff at Benu is now the charge of new Pastry Chef Courtney Schmidig, who comes to the restaurant from The French Laundry and replaces Christopher Bleidorn (who went to Atelier Crenn). She got off to a strong start here with this deceptively simple dessert. I adored how the funky, earthy, yet saccharine notes of the kasu was conveyed, set against the sweetness of strawberry with just a smidge of yuzu tang on the midpalate.

17: sesame white cake with salted plum
uroulat, jurançon, southwest france 2011
Let's just say that we were all a bit shocked when an honest-to-goodness, old-school cake was placed on the table for our main dessert. It was a bit dissonant given the hypermodern aesthetic at Benu, but the contrast was pure genius, and we all appreciated the communal aspect here, of slicing and serving the cake to each other "family style." Concept aside, the cake was pretty damn good. The plum, however, really took it to the next level, imparting a salty/sour component that really worked wonders with the sweetness here. I'd love this in a larger size as a birthday cake!

Once again, Benu managed to impress, delivering a virtually flawless meal that showcased Chef Lee's deft hand in marrying his contemporary leanings with Asia's vast culinary playbook. The food effectively conveys and honors those traditions, but never verges on trite or contrived, utilizing just the right amount of modernist flair in the process. At the same time, deliciousness was never compromised, and the comforting, cozy flavors that one expects are present in all their glory, with only occasional dalliances in the overtly cerebral. And, as expected, beverage pairings were spot on as well, really linking up with the cooking in creative and effective ways. The Benu team is doing some great work here, and I'm looking forward to see where they all take this. Time for three stars?

Go's Mart Sushi
22330 Sherman Way, Los Angeles, CA 91303
818.704.1459
Sun 08/25/2013, 04:30p-07:25p

Go's Mart Exterior

One of LA's best, and certainly most unique sushi joints is also one of the most out-of-the-way. I'd first visited Go's Mart way back in 2007 after coming down from a dinner at The French Laundry. Despite the strength of that experience, I'd stayed away all this time due to the considerable drive out to Canoga, and as a result, our meal here once again came on the back of another Bay Area trip.

An interesting note is that the VHS video rental aspect of Go's seems to be no longer, unsurprisingly given the advent of DVD, Blu-ray, and video-on-demand. However, Go-san's right-hand man Oscar is still at it here after 14 years (keep in mind that the placed opened circa 1997), though his other assistant Lino has seemingly been let go, replaced by a young guy named Tomás.

As far as Go's Mart's menu is concerned, the standard selections are fairly mundane, so clearly the way to go is to sit at the counter and order the omakase, drawn largely from the specials board and totaling $171.50 a head this evening. To drink, think an unremarkable selection of sake and beer (though I hear there's no corkage...). And yes, the check was presented on a Post-it note (charming). Click for a larger version.

Kikusui Junmai Ginjo sake

Speaking of sake, we began with a bottle of the Kikusui Junmai Ginjo [$35], a commonplace, but very approachable brew that was viscous in consistency, with a strong melon character over a base of koji notes and a trace of alcoholic burn.

1: Salmon & Cucumber
Our first course brought together cucumber, sesame, and smoked salmon in commendable fashion, the heady, hefty flavors of the fish balanced by the bright, crunchy veggie, all while the sesame imparted a lovely nuttiness that overarched the entire dish.

Suzuki

2a: Suzuki [$7.00]
We moved right into the nigiri with this foursome. Sea bass was delightful, silky in texture, with a delicate taste that melded seamlessly with the truffle and lemon notes present, all while the back end was awash in the clean, minty essence of shiso.

2b: Kinmedai [$7.00]
The golden eye snapper (a.k.a. splendid alfonsino) was even better, with a meatier consistency and a more assertive flavor profile. Delish, and my favorite of the four here.

2c: Managatsuo [$8.00]
Butterfish was, as the name would imply, the lushest of the bunch, with a nice citrus counterpoint and a strong kick of wasabi on the finish.

2d: Kanpachi [$6.00]
Finally, the amberjack was the firmest, the crunchiest of the quartet, with the sweetest flesh and a subtle bit of shiso brightness toward the end.

3a: Kuromaguro [$3.00]
Next, we were presented a trio of different tuna preparations. First was the blue fin, a great preparation of the sushi staple with a good depth to it and a smart hit of garlic on the midpalate, while its finish was all about that wasabi burn.

3b: Kawagishi Toro
Here was a version of toro that I've only encountered here at Go's. Its basically tuna flesh that's scraped from the bone, resulting in a sort of paste-like consistency with no sinew at all--chewing wasn't even required. Mixed with soy sauce, it was rich and dark, with the crunch and astringency of the onion serving as a fitting foil.

Toro

3c: Toro [$10.00]
The toro proper was of medium fattiness, undeniably tasty with a bit of chew to it and a nice wasabi element to balance things out.

Ebi

4a: Ebi [$8.50]
One the standouts for me was the blue shrimp, which arrived wonderfully snappy in texture, with a superb char character and salty kick from the caviar that went along beautifully with the savory-sweet flavors of the shrimp. Nice bit of wasabi zing here, too.

4b: Tarabagani [$10.00]
King crab was spot on: tender, sweet, and cool, with just a whisper of truffle goodness that paired in stellar fashion with the lingering salinity of the crustacean.

4c: Zuwaigani [$8.00]
Snow crab was similarly on point, arriving juicy and sweet, with a delightful consistency to it and a great touch of wasabi to focus the flavors.

Uni

4d: Uni [$6.00]
Go-san humorously referred to this as "Santa Barbara peanut butter," and he wasn't far off the mark with that description. It was a delectable presentation of uni, its creamy, sweet nature on proud display against the subtle truffle nuances in the course, all while salt added pleasing jolts of saline goodness on the palate.

5: Shrimp Head
The head of the shrimp above was then presented to us in fried form, a crispy, crunchy, utterly delicious course that showed off an almost instant ramen-like savor to it.

Aji

6a: Aji [$7.00]
Next, a duet of oily fish. Spanish mackerel was a shining example of the style, light and bright, with a growing fishiness along with an apparent sweetness from the goji berry.

Saba

6b: Saba [$6.00]
Meanwhile, the saba mackerel was much fuller flavored, and firmer in body, with a long, lingering brine offset by the use of ginger.

7a: Benizake
Sockeye was our first of two salmons, and was pretty amazing, with a great interplay between the truffle and the inherent fattiness of the fish, all while salt and wasabi added further points of interest to the course.

7b: Sake no Kunsei
Smoked king salmon was also to my liking, its woody, hammy savor working flawlessly with the moderating bitterness of the onion.

Ikura

8: Ikura [$8.00]
Ikura was smooth and buttery, probably the lushest presentation I've had of the roe, but also showed off a smoky, saline character as well.

Mirugai

9a: Mirugai [$6.00]
Seared geoduck was lovely, with a great mix of crunchy yet supple textures and a focused brine that was dutifully offset by the burn of wasabi.

Awabi

9b: Awabi [$5.00]
Baby abalone was great texturally, with a supple, yet satisfying bite to it and a veil of truffle-y flavors that made this one of the most unique presentations of awabi sushi I've had.

Ankimo

10: Ankimo [$5.00]
Go-san's monkfish liver was some of the most approachable I'd ever encountered, with a tangy sweetness initially that lead smoothly to the creamy, liver-y notes toward the finish.

Anago

11a: Anago [$6.50]
Sea eel was deep and dark, with a commixture of sweet and savory flavors that just worked.

Unagi

11b: Unagi [$6.50]
The freshwater eel, on the other hand, was fattier, more luxurious, with a crispiness to it and a palpable, citrus-y, offsetting tang.

12: Watarigani no Temaki [$9.00]
The requisite blue crab hand roll was just as sweet, cool, and creamy as you'd expect, but with the added benefit of truffle, which added an almost intoxicating overtone to the course.

Okoze

Supplement: Okoze [$7.00]
At this point, the set omakase was pretty much over, so we ordered a couple more courses to round things out. First was the okoze, which I'd actually never encountered before. Go-san called it a sculpin, though stonefish appears to be the more common translation. In any case, it was really quite nice, wonderful texturally with a subtle sweetness that paired well with the lemon-y and yuzukosho notes present.

Supplement: Seki Aji [$7.00]
Seki aji's a special brand of the fish caught only from Japan's Bungo Channel, and is a real treat at sushi restaurants. The mackerel was light and delicate on the palate, with a tempering brightness from the shiso and a nice bit of wolfberry sweetness. It tasted pretty similar to the aji above, though.

Supplement: Hirame no Kobujime [$5.00]
Our last fish was a kelp-treated flounder done in the kobujime style. The result of the process was a denser, more complex tasting fish, one that went just swimmingly with salty-spicy flavors of the yuzukosho here.

'Holy Cow'

Supplement: "Holy Cow" [$10.00]
We ended our savories with some beef sushi, which was as tasty and savory as you'd expect, with a fantastic lingering spice to it. However, I really would've preferred the meat rarer, so that I could've better appreciated it texturally.

13: Fruit Plate
Dessert comprised a simple plate of fruit, a sweet, refreshing close to the evening.

This meal really was a reminder of how good Go's can be. Certainly, the Chef's liberal use of truffle, salt, citrus, shiso, and other accoutrements may not be for everybody. Some may complain about authenticity even. Sure, I get it. I appreciate having the fish stand alone just as much as anyone else, but the little flourishes here really make the sushi some of the most interesting around, and really point toward Go-san's unorthodox, irreverent style. That's really what makes the place special, and one of the real gems of the SFV. Sushi fiends, Go's needs to be on your bucket list.

Salt Air Restaurant
1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291
310.396.9333
www.saltairvenice.com
Thu 09/05/2013, 08:00p-11:20p

Salt Air Exterior

Back a few years ago, 1616 Abbot Kinney was home to Capri, an Italian spot that was, by all accounts, pretty horrible. However, the address was brought back to life in December 2011 with the opening of Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga's much-lauded Wolf in Sheep's Clothing pop-up. The two eventually launched The Hart and The Hunter, leaving the space in the hands of Kevin Kathman's AK Supper Club (interestingly, Kathman would go on to helm the second incarnation of WiSC at Lilly's), and then Benadicto Gell's Cal-Dominican Mangu. All this time, though, the building was actually under the control of Dave Reiss, whom you might know from A-Frame, Sunny Spot, and littlefork. He had plans all along to rework the location into a new concept, and finally partnered with Carol Ann and Moise Emquies to debut Salt Air on June 21st this year.

Running the kitchen here is New Yorker Greg A. Daniels, not to be confused with Greg Daniels of Haven Gastropub fame. The Buffalo area native began his culinary career at Frosty's, his family's ice cream shop, then attended the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan. Following graduation, he cooked at Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Perry St, working his way up to an executive sous chef position. Daniels was slated to move to Vongerichten's eponymous flagship eatery, but instead ended up relocating to Los Angeles to be with his girlfriend, so here we are.

As far as Salt Air's menu goes, it's a blend of familiar seafood classics as well as some more unconventional dishes such as the oft-talked about fish skin chips. To drink, you'll find cocktails from Brian Butler (though note that there's no full bar here), as well as a pretty nice selection of beers, wines, and even non-alcoholic libations. Click for larger versions.

Tonic

Tonic [$11.00] | bonal, lemongrass, ginger, tonic
Shandy [$11.00] | sour beer, passionfruit, honey, lemon
Naturally, we had to try all the cocktails on the menu, and first up was the Tonic. Based on Bonal, the drink conveyed a sort of herby, medicinal, but soft bittersweetness to it that went nicely with the ginger-y notes present. The Shandy, meanwhile, incorporated gueuze, giving it a great tart, funky, acidic quality with just a whisper of countervailing sweetness--nice!

Oysters

Oysters [$26.00/full dozen] | east and west coast oysters, mignonette, cocktail sauce, horseradish, hot sauce, lemon
Oysters were a natural beginning to the meal, with three varieties on offer. First were the Sweet Petites from Martha's Vineyard (the Chef's favorite), which I found surprisingly full-flavored, with a particularly briny finish laced with just a modicum of sweetness. Even more intense were the Sunberry Points from Prince Edward Island (my first time with 'em), while the Wellfleets were the heftiest and largest of the trio, with the most pronounced salinity.

Grilled Octopus [$14.00] | beluga lentils, pickled onion, chorizo
I do love my octopus, and Salt Air's was a prime presentation of the cephalopod. It was beautifully prepared, coming out tender, yet substantial, with a subtle sweetness and a great char bitterness to it. What made this dish for me, though, were the accompaniments, the onions adding a tanginess on the back end, while the chorizo contributed an underlying heat to things. I appreciated the lentils here as well, which imparted an earthy, weighty quality that grounded the course. A table favorite, and one of the best octopus dishes I've had in a while.

Pea Toast [$11.00] | ricotta, pea leaves, caramelized onions
Pea toast is probably something you want to order, with its creamy sweetness (courtesy of the ricotta-onion combo) lending a lushness to the dish that was gorgeously balanced by the brightness of the peas.

Cobbler

Cobbler [$11.00] | peychaud bitters, carpano, hibiscus, lemon, orange
High Ball [$11.00] | cardamaro, lime, house ginger beer, forbidden bitters
Time for more cocktails. The Cobbler was a great rendition of the old-school drink, with a rich base of sweet spice joined by a bevy of delectably tart, fruity flavors. I also really enjoyed the High Ball, with its refreshing, ginger-y base playing off of the aromatic, cinnamon-y nuances from the bitters and the slightly oxidative quality of the amaro.

Fish Skin Chips [$6.00] | smoked onion dip, harissa
Next, we come to perhaps the most bandied-about item on Salt Air's menu: the baked-fried salmon skins. They were salty and briny, sort of like what you'd imagine a fish chicharrón to be like, but with a very delicate consistency. I quite liked the chips on their own, but the harissa and smoky/sweet onion dip had their place, too.

Lobster Roll [$20.00] | connecticut style, scallion, corn relish, potato chips
I don't know if the lobster roll is the new ahi tuna tartar or what, but it seems to be popping up on menus left and right these days. Salt Air's hot rendition is certainly worthy of consideration, with the crustacean arriving warm, utterly buttery, and almost uncommonly sweet--its sugary character only bolstered by the inclusion of corn--while the scallion served to temper the dish (just a bit). And the potato crisps? Salty and spot on.

Fried Oysters [$13.00] | pretzel crusted, frisee, miso mustard
I've had fried oysters before, but never like this. They come coated in pretzel bits, making for a fun, unabashedly crunchy eating experience that did a great job recalling the classic combo of pretzels and mustard. Definitely give these a shot.

Spritz

Spritz [$11.00] | cocchi americano, dolin blanc, grapefruit bitters, prosecco
Sour [$11.00] | byrrh, punt e mes, strawberry, lemon, demerara
Our third round of cocktails started with the Spritz, a bubbly, citrus-y concoction with a great hit of light, herbaceous, refreshing bitterness from the Cocchi and Dolin. The Sour, on the other hand, was akin to a boozy strawberry juice, with the sugariness of the fruit deftly played against the complexity of Byrrh and vermouth.

House Salad [$8.00] | little gem, endive, avocado, radish, fines herbes, mustard vinaigrette
The generically-named House Salad wasn't much to look at, but the flavors were on point. All the elements actually came together really nicely here--a mélange of textures and tastes, expertly tied together by that tangy dressing.

Carrot & Fennel Salad [$9.00] | kale, quinoa, basil vinaigrette
Our next salad was a bit more ambitious, but not quite as successful. Carrots imparted a pleasant sweetness and crunch to the course, and the kale made sense too, but the quinoa was just a tad discordant, distracting even at times. There were also inedible parts (twigs and whatnot) in the salad, which were vexing.

Olive Oil Poached Salmon [$21.00] | heirloom shelling beans, shishito peppers
At this point, we moved into the mains, specifically the poached salmon. It was a perfect presentation of the fish, the filet coming out still slightly rare and beautifully flaky, with a hint of fattiness to it that went swimmingly with its lush, ocean-y flavors, countered just barely by the bright nuances of the herbs and veggies. If that wasn't enough, I also appreciated the slight tinge of heat from the shishitos, as well as how the beans added a noticeable, moderating heft to the dish. A highlight of the meal for sure.

Whole Fish [$39.00] | fried red snapper
No doubt, the pièce de résistance this evening was the whole snapper, which was coated in flour, fried, garnished with pickled Fresno peppers and scallion, then filleted at the table by our server. It really was one of the tastiest tais I've had, the fish coming out juicy and flavorful, with a delightfully crisp skin and a palpable Asian-y tint to it.

Tiki

Tiki [$11.00] | angostura bitters, rosa americano, orgeat, lime, pineapple
Our final drink was the Tiki, which, as the name implies, conveyed the tropically sweet, spicy flavors that you'd expect, all over a great base of Cocchi Americano Rosa. Splendid.

Chocolate Cake [$8.00]
Moving on to dessert now, the requisite chocolate cake was nothing to sneeze at, with the richness of the cake nicely balanced by countervailing thrusts of bitterness and smoke.

Peach Cream Poundcake [$8.00]
I was quite fond of the poundcake, which I found surprisingly light, with its subtle sweetness pairing well with the juicy notes of the peach, all while the cream added a great touch of levity to the fray. Beautifully balanced and integrated.

Monkey Bread [$8.00]
We ended with Salt Air's signature dessert, the Monkey Bread. It was as sticky and sweet as it looked, with a caramel-y, cinnamon-y quality to it joined by just a bit of savory flair from the nuts. A must try.

Sure, it would've been nice if WiSC stuck around, but I'm quite happy with its eventual replacement. Daniels' cooking really livens up the area's dining scene I think. He brings a blend of the familiar and the new, effectively taking the skills he acquired under Jean-Georges and translating them to fit the aesthetics of an eclectic seafood joint. It's a combination that works well for me, and, combined with the commendable cocktails (which give the liquorless concoctions at Scratch|Bar a run for their money), makes for a great new dining option on Abbot Kinney.

EMC Seafood & Raw Bar
3500 W 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90020
213.351.9988
www.emcseafood.com
Thu 09/12/2013, 07:45p-10:55p

The latest sensation to hit K-Town follows in the footsteps of the numerous seafood-centric eateries that have debuted in recent times (I'm looking at you Littlefork, Fishing with Dynamite, Connie & Ted's, Salt Air, and the new Water Grill). Yes, EMC takes over the site of the old Maitreya in the City Center on 6th complex, and is the product of partners Ellis Choi, brothers Marcus and Michael Kwan, and Charles Hung Jr., hence the name (think about it). The place debuted in July, and has been making quite a name for itself since then, especially in the Asian-American community.

A bit of background: Ka Wai "Michael" Kwan and Ka Kue "Marcus" Kwan are the duo behind Le Ka and the various Wokcanos, as well as the lesser known Backhouse, Green Hut Cafe, and Bunker Hill Bar & Grill. Together with Merrill Lynch wealth manager Kerry Moy, they form the M2K Group (again with the acronyms). The Kwan brothers also run Qpack, a restaurant packaging company, and have had a hand in the ill-fated Tatou (Hell's Kitchen Season 1 winner Michael Wray's spot) and the unfortunately-named Wok on Fire. I will also have to note that this dinner ended up being comped. That wasn't the expectation going in (as I rarely attend such meals), but one of my dining companions was acquainted with some of the owners, so that's how it turned out.

EMC's menu features a smattering of expected entries from the tried-and-true seafood playbook, but with a distinctly Asian slant, not to mention a number of straight-up O.G. Asian dishes. Click for larger versions.

To drink, think classically-leaning cocktails by Andrew Parish, as well as the requisite beer and a surprisingly decent wine list. Click for larger versions.

Whilsner [$12.00] | Whiskey, Amaro Ciociaro, Lemon Juice, Lemon Essence, Pilsner
Old Fashioned [$14.00] | B&E Bourbon, Maraschino Liqueur, Angostura, & Orange Bitters
The Whilsner was a fantastic way to begin the evening, with its pleasantly bittersweet, herby flavors and citrus-y zing working beautifully with the Macallan 12, all while the nuances of the beer were delightfully fleeting. The barrel-aged Old Fashioned was another winner, a smart take on the classic drink with maraschino in place of sugar or simple syrup. I found it very well balanced, with the slightly puckering qualities of the liqueur coming through toward the back end.

Naked Cowboy (Long Island, NY) [$19.00] | Served with Cocktail Sauce, Lime Jalapeño, & Horseradish
Oysters were a natural first course, and the Naked Cowboys fit the bill nicely, coming in relatively substantial to the bite, with a strong salinity and a particularly lingering, mineral-laced finish.

Crispy Garlic Brussels Sprouts [$6.00]
Given my penchant for Brussels sprouts, these were a must try, and did not disappoint, really showcasing the astringent, savory qualities of the vegetable along with a lovely Asian-y tinge courtesy of the sesame. Nice texture on 'em, too.

Lobster Roll - mini

Mini Lobster Roll [$8.00] | Tarragon Butter, Sea Salt, Brioche Bun
The lobster roll seems to be the de facto"gotta order" dish on seafood menu these days, and EMC's certainly made a case for itself. The crustacean arrived soft, springy, and very buttery, with a palpable sweetness to the flesh that worked hand-in-hand with the similar notes in the brioche. A nice take on the hot "Connecticut-style."

Black Pepper Beef Mignon [$14.00] | Chunks of Tender Beef Quick-Stirred with Onion in a Rich Roasted Black Pepper Sauce
Our sole meat course of the night recalled the "French style beef" that one finds at some Chinese places. I found it quite satisfying, with the tenderloin coming out tender and tasty, the peppery sauce serving as a fitting complement to the protein.

Uni Pasta [$18.00] | Cream, Fish Roe, Chives, Dried Seaweed
The über of-the-moment sea urchin pasta was nicely done here, the creamy, somewhat garlicky noodles dutifully enhanced by the lush, ocean-y sweetness of the uni, all while seaweed added further blasts of umami to the dish.

Whiskey Flip [$12.00] | Rye Whiskey, Byrrh Grand Quinquina, Orange Juice, Lemon Juice, Sugar, Egg
The Boulevardier [$14.00] | B&E Bourbon, Campari, Carpano Antica
Time for more cocktails. I quite liked the Whiskey Flip, finding it very well integrated and delightfully frothy, with the sweet-spicy character of the Byrrh melding perfectly with the citric qualities in the drink. Also worth trying was The Boulevardier, a barrel-aged take on the original that beautifully showcased the bittersweet nature of the Campari against the classic combo of Bourbon and sweet vermouth.

Tua Tua Clams (New Zealand) [$10.00] | Served with Cocktail Sauce, Lime Jalapeño, & Horseradish
Getting back to the raw bar, we had some tuatuas, which I'd actually never tried before. Compared to your typical clams, these were spongier, and more interesting texturally, with an intense salinity to them countered by a noticeable amount of sweetness as well.

Clams in Abalone Broth [$15.00] | Manila Clams, Taro Noodles, Green Onions & Cilantro
Next, we come to what was probably my favorite course of the dinner. The clams themselves were spot on--firm and briny--but what really took this over the top was the abalone stock here, which lent a penetrating savor to the dish that really amplified the bivalves' inherent qualities. Also key were the scallions and cilantro, both of which provided a fantastic jolt of brightness and verve that really lightened up the dish.

Congee with Abalone [$16.00]
The congee was another highlight, and coincidentally (or not), also featured abalone, which served as a textural counterpoint and also added a fantastic depth to the soup. Taken with scallion, ginger, and a dash of white pepper, the dish was a comforting, cozy experience that ranked among the top rice porridges I've had.

Crispy Pepper Calamari [$8.00] | Spicy Aioli
Squid was rather tasty, with the scallion and accompanying condiment working well with the subtly savory quality of the fritters. However, I would've liked less batter, so that the texture of the calamari could've been better appreciated.

EMC Chowder [$6.00] | Potatoes, Celery, Onions, Clams, Light Creamy Broth
You gotta try the chowda at a seafood joint right? EMC's version was definitely on the lighter side, but nicely balanced, with the proper flavors all in place. Worth a try.

Aguas Frescas [$12.00] | Vodka, Mint, Cucumber, Sugar, & Champagne
Bee's Knees [$12.00] | Ford's Gin, Fresh Lemon Juice, Honey
Our last round of cocktails brought the Aguas Frescas, the lightest libation of the night with its candied, almost Jolly Rancher-esque sweetness tempered by a backbone of cucumber. Finally, there was the Bee's Knees, an unabashedly classic drink with a bracingly lemon-y flair that was duly moderated by the sugary heft of honey.

Dungeness Crab [$38.00] | Crispy: Light Batter, Sea Salt, Garlic, Onions, White Pepper, Soy Sauce
The evening's pièce de résistance was an impressive looking specimen of Dungeness crab, done up in proper Chinese-y fashion. The crabmeat itself was sweet, tender, subtle, and expectedly difficult to extract, but went superbly with the savory, salty qualities of its accompaniments. A fun one to share--gotta suck on those legs.

Chinese Broccoli [$5.00]
The gai-lan worked well as a foil to the course above, its crunchy, bitter qualities nicely balancing the intensity of the crab.

Belgium Chocolate Lava Cake [$6.00] | With Whipped Cream
With that, it was time for dessert, and how expected of us to start with a rendition of the ubiquitous molten chocolate cake (a creation of Michel Bras' from the 80's, I understand). EMC's was about what you'd expect: tasty enough, but not particularly interesting.

Ginger Crème Brûlée [$6.00]
The crème brûlée was a tiny bit more intriguing, with the piquant characteristics of the ginger really permeating the custard, all while the berries added just a hint of tartness to the fray.

Yuzu Soufflé Cheesecake [$6.00] | With Whipped Cream
We concluded with my favorite of the desserts. I appreciated the sourness of the yuzu here, and how it really made itself known over the traditional heft and tanginess of the cheesecake.

EMC's been blowing up as of late, and I can see why. The restaurant is almost painfully on-trend, delivering on its promises of solid seafood, but with a resoundingly Asian outlook. It is really that approach that makes this place stand out from the crowd. Desserts could use a little rejuvenation (I'd perhaps consider going more overtly Asian--riffing on patbingsu for example), but service was on point, and cocktails were definitely worth checking out as well. In the end, EMC looks to be a great fit for the neighborhood, and a much-needed addition to the K-Town dining scene.

Girasol Restaurant
11334 Moorpark St, Los Angeles, CA 91602
818.924.2323
www.girasolrestaurant.com
Wed 09/18/2013, 08:45p-11:15p

Girasol's probably the most exciting thing to hit the Studio City dining scene since Adam Horton started cooking at Raphael. Named after the Spanish word for "sunflower," the place opened on July 1st and takes over the supposedly "cursed" space formerly occupied by a string of mediocre establishments (8 1/2 Taverna, Nick's Grill, ZenChi Cafe, and Studio Bar-B-Q). The draw here is clearly Executive Chef CJ Jacobson, whom we know from his two appearances on Top Chef, and the restaurant certainly hits all the culinary buzzwords du jour, advertising the cooking as local, hyper-seasonal, refined-rustic, sustainable, approachable-yet-unique Cal cuisine. We shall see.

About the Chef: Chris Jacobson hails from El Toro, CA (the O.G. Lake Forest) and grew up somewhat disinterested in food. He attended Pepperdine University, and during his tenure there, played volleyball under legendary coach Marv Dunphy, even reaching the NCAA Men's Volleyball Championship match in 1998. After graduating with a degree in TV/radio production and a minor in history, he played volleyball professionally in Europe and even tried out for the 2000 Summer Olympics in Sydney. While living in Belgium, Jacobson first began developing an appreciation for food, and upon his return to the US in 2001, started working at Abbot Kinney mainstay Axe. Following, he enrolled in the Le Cordon Bleu program at the CSCA, and from there, cooked at Wolfgang Puck Catering, and then at Campanile for a year and a half.

In 2005, Jacobson was diagnosed with testicular cancer, but overcame the condition after undergoing radiation therapy and surgery. However, this caused him to leave the restaurant biz and move into the less stressful role of private cheffing, securing clients such as Arianna Huffington and the Marciano family (of the Guess clothing line). In 2007, Jacobson was thrust into the national limelight through his appearance on Top Chef Season 3, where he finished in sixth place. With this newfound celebrity, he served as a menu consultant for Hilton Garden Inn in 2008, and also had plans to open Town and Country, an ambitious restaurant concept in Chicago, with fellow TC contestants Dale Levitski and Sara Nguyen. The idea was scrapped, though, following the economic downturn that year (interestingly, Levitski and Nguyen are working together now at Sprout, also in Chicago).

Jacobson's next move came in 2009, when he took on the Executive Chef role at The Yard in Santa Monica. While working there, he also assisted Michael Chiarello on the first season of Top Chef Masters, then participated in the James Beard Foundation's Celebrity Chef Tour and cooked a dinner at the Beard House in New York. In 2012, he left The Yard and staged for three months at René Redzepi's vaunted Noma in Copenhagen, and later competed on Season 10 of Top Chef, where he was eliminated in the fifth episode (though he rocked Last Chance Kitchen). After this renewed bit of fame, Jacobson began consulting for George Abou-Daoud, revamping menus at The Mercantile, Rosewood Tavern, and The Bowery before taking over the kitchens at Girasol.

2010 Château de Fuisse Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru

2010 Château de Fuisse Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru

As far as beverages go, Girasol still lacks a full liquor license, so cocktails aren't really an option at this point, while the wine list doesn't exactly scream excitement either. Corkage, though, is an option at $25, and a couple of my dining companions were gracious enough to bring along a few bottles. First was the 2010 Château de Fuisse Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru, which I found light and citrusy, with a refreshing acidity and quaint minerality to it, all joined by a certain roundness and viscosity on the tongue. I quite liked this one, though others at the table were complaining about it being over-oaked.

House Bread [$4.00] | With Lovage Butter
I keep going back and forth on the idea of restaurants charging for bread, but Girasol's tonight was worth it, arriving at the table properly warm and wonderfully smoky, nicely crisp and crusty on the outside, with a soft, fluffy interior that I found quite beguiling. As good as the bread was, I was a fan of the butter as well, its silky consistency and herby lovage nuances proudly conveyed.

Marinated and Grilled Pork Satay [$11.00] | Caramelized Onion Puree, CA Olive Oil, Grilled Lemon, Fennel Pollen
The pork satay was another winner, the meat coming out tender, juicy, and wonderfully savory, with a fantastic countervailing char bitterness. The tinge of sourness from the lemon was much appreciated as well, and the sweetness of the onion coming through on the back end was pretty neat, too. My favorite component here, though, was the fennel pollen, which lent some wonderful aromatics to the course that just tied things together beautifully.

Apricot and Burrata Cheese [$12.00] | Crispy Lentils, Opal Basil, Sea Salt
Here, the sweetness of the stone fruit was really at the forefront (though some pieces were underripe), transitioning gracefully to the classic, yet always effective combination of basil and burrata, punctuated by hits of salt on the palate. Unfortunately, the crunch of the lentils was far too jarring here, really serving to distracting from, rather than enhance the dish.

The 2010 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet was a standout: spicy and herby, with a softly acidic quality and a fantastic blend of stone fruit and wet minerality. Very focused, with a pleasing finish.

Octopus Salad [$17.00] | Long Roasted Eggplant, Little Gem, Rosemary Ash Oil, Sweet & Sour Chili, Toasted Lovage
Given my penchant for octopus, this was obviously a must-order for me. The main ingredient I found masterfully cooked, its tender, yet still substantial consistency combining with a subtle brine and great char astringency, all making for thoroughly enjoyable eating experience. The octopod's various accompaniments made sense as well, resulting in a mélange of smoky, earthy, and tangy flavors that added further points of interest to the dish.

Dried Fava Bean Puree [$14.00] | House Chorizo, Cherry Tomato, Parsley, Grilled Flatbread
Fava was puréed into in an almost hummus-like form, its subtle flavors dutifully augmented by the pleasant spice of the accompanying chorizo, all while tomatoes served to brighten up the dish. Use the included flatbread to scoop up everything, and the result is strangely comforting.

Grilled House Ground Meatballs [$13.00] | Nicoise, Long cooked Tomato Sauce, Parmesan
Meatballs, meanwhile, were some of the best I've had. They showed off a crumbly texture and came slightly rare, which I appreciated. Taste-wise, they were spot on: wonderfully savory in a straightforward fashion, with the tanginess of the tomato coming through toward the finish.

With the reds, we moved from Burgundy to Italy, and first to the plate was the 2005 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro. I found it a lovely presentation of Sangiovese, rather easy drinking and nicely balanced with its sourish cherry notes and earthy, woody musk.

Tamai Farms Pan Roasted Cauliflower [$18.00] | Grilled Oyster Mushroom, Mandarin Satsuma, Almond Cauliflower Puree, Lentils
At this point, we moved into the larger plates. I'm a big fan of cauliflower, and Jacobson's rendition of it here really delivered. The veggie itself showcased its inherently light, delicate flavors and trademark crispness, and was deftly paired with the headier, earthier notes from the mushrooms, all while the purée and lentils acted to ground the dish. A great vegetarian option to be sure.

Rabbit

Rabbit [$32.00] | Chanterelles, Squash, Blueberry, Chervil, Shaved Chestnuts
One of two specials tonight was the rabbit (the other was grouper). The kitchen did a nice job with the it, the meat being dense, mild, with a straightforward savoriness that melded very well with the rich, earthy nuances from the mushrooms. Chervil added a nice brightness to the dish, and the blueberries just a modicum of sweetness.

Whole Fried Red Snapper [$28.00] | Crispy Greens, Fermented Fresno Chili, Sauce of Kumquat, Sorrel and Citrus
The oft-photographed snapper reminded me of a similar dish at Salt Air. The version here was similarly delectable: juicy and flavorful, with a delightfully crisp skin. I quite enjoyed the fish bare, but the fermented chili-kumquat-sorrel dipping sauce that came along was something else, imparting a sour-smoky tint to the main ingredient that recalled Islay scotch(!).

Our final wine of the evening was the 2004 Antico Terren Ottavi Pianetta di Cagnore. It made a strong showing as well, displaying heady aromas of dark floral, fruit laced with spice, which continued onto the palate where it was joined by subtle tannins and traces of astringency.

Braised Leg of Lamb [$21.00] | Carrot Puree, Crispy Brussels, Ruby Plum, Fried Potato, Dill Flower
Our final savory course of the night brought us an artful presentation of lamb. The leg, unfortunately, was a touch dry, though its ovine flavors were still dutifully conveyed, and particularly apt when paired with the sweetness of the carrot and fruit, while the Brussels and dill contributed a bit of levity to the fray.

Olive Oil Cake and Peach [$8.00]
Naturally, we opted for all three of Girasol's desserts, and the first was this great rendition of olive oil cake. The cake itself I found wonderfully moist, with a subtle, yet omnipresent olive-y character that went superbly with the dollop of crème fraîche on top. The juicy sweetness of the peaches made for a fitting pairing, and I really liked the herbaceous overtones (fennel?) as well.

Dark Chocolate Chiboust [$8.00]
The requisite chocolate cake was successful, the cake itself bursting with rich, dark, sugary flavors, a perfect pair to the caramel ice cream and its delightful pricks of salt.

Strawberry and Doughnuts [$8.00]
Finally, buttermilk donut holes were presented with strawberries, globules of crème fraîche ice cream, pistachio coulis, and what I believe was sorrel. Here, the sweet, tangy fruit served as a foil to the slightly savory nature of the fried dough, with the crème fraîche adding a well-placed jolt of tanginess to the mix. Lovely bit of piquancy from the greenery, too. One nit: I would've liked the doughnuts to have come out warmer.

I don't think anyone really doubts that Girasol's a much-needed new addition to the Studio City scene. Like I mentioned above, it's one of the most exciting developments to hit the area in a while. The food's mostly successful, and you can see flashes of Jacobson's pan-ethnic influences and Noma training. Given Girasol's locale, I understand the need to make some of the plates more approachable, but I'd also like to see the Chef push things a bit more, to show us more of his progressive leanings (that is, if the owners--Rafael and Elle Gofman--will let him). We've all witnessed Jacobson on Top Chef and what he produced on the show, and we can even peek at what he's up to on his Instagram, so I think things are moving in that direction. I'm curious to see where he takes this.

Check out the master Index of Posts to view a list of all the restaurants that I've visited. Or, see the Interactive Dining Map and The Best Thing I Ever Ate, a list of my favorites dishes of all time. Contact me via email at kevin at kevineats dot com.

Connie & Ted's Restaurant
8171 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90046
323.848.2722
www.connieandteds.com
Tue 06/04/2013, 08:00p-11:50p

One of 2013's most anticipated debuts has been a long time coming. News of Michael Cimarusti's reimagined New England clam shack first broke in March last year, and the place is named after the Chef's maternal grandparents, immigrants from England who married in 1940, hence the "est'd" date. Ted was an avid fisherman, and he passed his love of seafood down to his grandson, a fact that's clearly evident in the menu here. You'll find a straightforward selection of traditionally prepared fish and shellfish, executed by Executive Chef Sam Baxter, the former Providence CdC who started his career under Cimarusti at Water Grill. Speaking of Providence alums, David Rodriguez takes up Pastry Chef duties, while Matthew De Marte serves as General Manager. Rounding out the team are partners Donato Poto (a bit hard to recognize in an apron), Craig Nickoloff of Claim Jumper fame, as well as Cimarusti's wife Crisi Echiverri.

Connie & Ted's Interior

Connie & Ted's occupies the site of the old Silver Spoon, though the former building's been completely torn down. The new wavy-roofed, 140-seat structure reads sleek, with a hint of Mid-Century flair, but still pays homage to its fish house roots. Diners inside get a view of the kitchen, but my guess is that tables on the covered patio will be the most coveted.

Connie & Ted's Oyster List and Catch of the Day

Connie & Ted's menu features a wide swath of dishes befitting its inspiration. The raw bar was done proper, with easily the largest selection of oysters I'd ever encountered. Even more appealing were the array of fun, shareable starters, while simply-prepared mains and sandwiches added some heartier fare to the mix. Click for larger versions.

The drinks, meanwhile, didn't take a back seat either. The beer list was commendable to be sure (both bottled and draught), and you'd be remiss if you didn't try some of Laura Lindsay's cocktails. For you winos, there's also a California-centric wine list to choose from. Click for larger versions.

Down East Punch / Ted's Cup / Indian Summer

Down East Punch / Ted's Cup / Indian Summer

Down East Punch [$12.00] | cognac, rum, housemade lamill coffee syrup, whole milk
Ted's Cup [$12.00] | housemade scotch-based liqueur, mint, cucumber, citrus, birch beer
Indian Summer [$12.00] | tequila, cocchi americano rosa, valerian tea, lime, blood orange
We made our way down the cocktail list, beginning with this threesome. The Down East Punch wasn't very punch-like at all, but was really, really good nevertheless, with a wonderfully creamy, coffee-laced flair that tempered the booze flawlessly--this one could be dangerous. Speaking of dangerous, we also had Ted's Cup, which was reminiscent of an adult root beer, with a fantastic sweet, spicy note to it that paired perfectly with the minty overtones present. Last up was the Indian Summer, which showed off a bittersweet, tangy character that transitioned to a savory, almost cheese-like taste on the close, thanks to the valerian.

Connie & Ted's Drag Queen

Hey, we were in West Hollywood after all.

Chef's Choice Platter [$34.00]
Given that there were a whopping 19 oysters on offer, we opted for two orders of the Chef's Choice Platter, specifying that we wanted six varieties so that everyone in our party of four could try one. That point was lost on our server though, and we ended up with two platters of a dozen types each, served with horseradish and mignonette sauce. Here's what I tried:

Malaspina, B.C. - Meaty, salty, but delicate, with a lingering salinity.
Fanny Bay, B.C. - Milder, sweeter, with a brief, clean finish.
Coromandel, B.C. - Creamy, almost buttery in consistency, yet mild in flavor.
Beau Soleil, N.B. - Classic in essence, with a focused, easy-to-like brine.
Cotuit, MA - Very nice, very fruity, very well-balanced.
Sweet Petite, MA - Creamy and subtly sweet, with a bracing freshness--yum.

Overall, an exceptional lot of oysters that made me want to try 'em all.

Jo's Wicked Good Chowda' [$11.00] | New England, Manhattan, Rhode Island clear
Connie & Ted's features three types of chowders, so naturally we had to sample them all. The standard New England variety was prototypical of the style, utterly satisfying and particularly enjoyable when taken with the oyster crackers. The Manhattan variety was sort of the polar opposite, being thinner, with a more pronounced tanginess from the tomato and veggies. My favorite of the troika was actually the Rhode Island version, which gave me the most pronounced clam flavor, but one balanced by the application of potato.

Stuffies [$9.00] | linguiça, garlic, butter, breadcrumbs
Stuffies were tantalizing, with a meaty, spicy kick from the sausage that was easy to like. However, the clams weren't all that apparent, being more pronounced as a textural component here.

Fried Calamari [$9.00] | marinara or sauce Figeroa
Fried squid served as a lovely example of the dish, a deft mix of crunchy and supple textures that was able to demonstrate the inherent goodness of the calamari without overwhelming it with batter. Tasty alone, and even better with a dash of lemon and dab of that tangy Figeroa condiment.

Asparagus au Gratin [$12.00] | roasted asparagus, parmesan cheese, sauce Figeroa
Asparagus was quite fetching, with the bitterness of the spears pairing surprisingly well with the cheesy weight of the Parm, all while the Figeroa added an undercurrent of spice to the dish.

The Dickerson / Catalina Eddy / Royal Treatment

The Dickerson / Catalina Eddy / Royal Treatment

The Dickerson [$12.00] | rye, gran classico, dry vermouth, citrus peel
Catalina Eddy [$12.00] | Jamaican rum, white demerara rum, house made banana cordial, honey, lime
Royal Treatment [$12.00] | gin, dubonnet rouge, lemon
Round #2 got us started with The Dickerson, which just sounds stiff. Indeed it was, but the drink also conveyed a candied sweetness to it that we likened to an apricot-flavored Jolly Rancher! The Catalina Eddy, meanwhile, was definitely tropical-leaning, with a banana-coconut tinge to it that made sense with the weightiness of the rum; I quite appreciated the levity imparted by the mint in this one. Last up was the Royal Treatment, which really showed off the gin against the backdrop of bittersweet, herb-y Dubonnet.

Josephine's Clam Cakes [$10.00] | tartar sauce
Clam cakes were fun and fluffy, with the salinity, as well as the texture of the bivalves really showing through. I didn't mind eating them alone, but a touch of tartar and a sprinkle of lemon made them all the better.

Oysters Rockefeller [$18.00]
Oysters Rockefeller was a straightforward presentation of the New Orleans classic--rich and savory, with a strong vegetal component from the spinach (or parsley?) present. I would've liked the oyster to be more apparent however.

New Bedford Scallop [$23.00] | grilled in its shell with lemon and salted butter
A singular live scallop was spot on, buttery and sweet, with a dense, satisfying bite to it that we all really enjoyed. Beautiful shell on this one as well. Pricey, but worth it.

Sailor's Delight / Narragansett Cooler

Sailor's Delight [$12.00] | dry gin, strawberries, rhubarb, lemon, egg white, soda
Narragansett Cooler [$12.00] | bourbon, orange juice, ginger ale
Our last two cocktails brought us the Sailor's Delight, which, indeed, was rather delightful, with a juicy, fruity sweetness that melded seamlessly with the egg white and gin. The unfortunately-named Narragansett Cooler, finally, I found quite refreshing, with a citrus-y, somewhat herbaceous zing that was unabashedly gluggable, perfect for those summer nights on the Rhode Island coast.

Deviled Oysters [$18.00]
Creamy, salty, a lil' spicy, and utterly delicious, with the oyster still shining through despite the accoutrements. One of the best presentations of cooked oyster I've had, in fact.

Angels on Horseback [$18.00]
Tonight was actually my first time having this whimsically-named dish, which comprises bacon-wrapped oysters atop bread. The natural salinity of the oyster was really quite pronounced here, and worked well with the saltiness of the bacon, all while the toast served as a sort of moderating base to the course.

Nancy's Peeky Toe Crab Cake [$12.00] | cole slaw, tartar sauce
The crab cake arrived rather thin. Though it didn't look like much, the sweet, ocean-y relish of the crab was nicely displayed here, not overly hidden by the requisite filler. Great slaw here as well.

With the cocktails all drunk up, we moved on to beer, specifically the Brouwerij West, Dog Ate My Homework, Blackberry Saison [$18], which is brewed right here in Palos Verdes. Despite what you may think, this wasn't a sweet beer. Rather, the dry, refreshing crispness of the base saison really made itself known initially, with the sugary berry nuances creeping up only on the finish.

Wild White Mexican Shrimp [$25.00] | grilled, scampi butter, heirloom squash
I usually shy away from cooked shrimp, but these were quite to my liking. Texturally, they were totally on point--not overdone, with a firm, snappy, springy consistency--while tastewise, I loved their sheer salinity, augmented by that wonderfully aromatic butter and hints of astringent char.

Fried Pacific Oyster [$15.00] | cole slaw, spicy mayo
A fried oyster sandwich was a pretty much flawless presentation of the dish. The oysters themselves gave us a perfect blend of crunchy and creamy consistencies, while their signature brine was proudly conveyed as well. The mayo and slaw formed fitting counterpoints to the seafood, and the sweet bread (baked in-house, natch) here worked wonders too.

Lobster Roll [$20.00] | hot drawn butter or mayonnaise
I think you pretty much have to get the lobster roll here, and we ended up with the cold version. The lobster itself arrived in sizeable, satisfying chunks, firm, yet springy to the bite, with a great blend of sweet, saline, and subtly spicy flavors. It worked beautifully with the buttery bread here, making for yet another laudable version for us Angelenos to try. The fries were lovely as well, sort of like In-N-Out's, but thicker, crisper, and better.

Our second beer was the Cismontane, Holy Jim Falls EPA [$11], from down in Rancho Santa Margarita. I really liked this one, finding it superbly crisp and well balanced, with bitter, aromatic, hoppy nuances leading to a grassy, lingering finish.

Grilled Catch of the Day [$23.00] | True Cod, Massachusetts
For our catch of the day, we chose Massachusetts cod, prepared "Plain & Simple." "Herb Crust" and "Herb Oil and Lemon" are also options, but we wanted the fish to shine here, and that it did. It was a pretty much flawless preparation of cod, with the fish coming out moist, dense, and flaky, with a mild savor that was superbly countered by the astringent char of the skin. Simple, yet uncompromisingly effective. The dish also came with a choice of side, and we opted for the Macaroni & Cheese, which was nicely balanced, though it could've been more al dente to the bite.

Ed's Portuguese Fish Stew [$22.00] | hake, manilla clams, mussels and linguiça
The fish stew was also to my liking, with the saline notes from the seafood tied together by the tanginess of the tomato broth, all while the sausage added a wonderful spice and savoriness to underscore the course. I also enjoyed the potatoes here, which served to temper some of the stronger flavors at play while adding textural differentiation and heft to things.

New England Boiled Dinner [$26.00] | mussels, steamers, lobster, linguiça, potatoes, steamed corn
Next was Connie & Ted's homage to the classic New England Clam Boil. It was a rustic, home-y sort of dish, with the various items of seafood beautifully presented, their sweet, briny flavors dutifully displayed, and the linguiça once again providing a delightful whisper of heat. I especially appreciated the broth here, which was positively imbued with the essence of the ocean, perfect for sopping up with some leftover bread. You should probably get this.

Hollywood Jesus (Kevin Lee Light)

Hell, even Hollywood Jesus made it out.

Bone-In Angus Rib Eye [$42.00] | char-grilled, maitre d' butter, fries
I'm happy to report that Connie & Ted's can produce a fine steak as well, if seafood's not your thing (but then why would you be here?).

Classic American desserts are the work of David Rodriguez. Click for larger versions.

Strawberry Rhubarb Pie [$9.00] | a la mode
The pairing of strawberry and rhubarb seems to be showing up on menus more and more often these days, but damn, it works. Here, we had a sugary, almost jammy sweetness from the combo that functioned seamlessly with the crust, all while the ice cream offered up a bit of countervailing lightness.

Rocky Road Brownie [$9.00] | chocolate ice cream and hot fudge sauce
A Rocky Road brownie was exactly like you'd expect: sweet, rich, and nutty, a bonanza for you chocolate lovers out there.

Indian Pudding [$8.00] | classic new england cornmeal and molasses pudding with vanilla ice cream
Though this dessert was originally inspired by the use of native American cornmeal (hence the "Indian" in the name), it actually showed off a sweet spice that made me think of India Indian.

House-Made Ice Cream [$8.00] | wet nuts
Cimarusti insisted that we try his wet nuts, so here we had a standard vanilla ice cream, but topped with a commixture of walnuts and syrup. It was surprisingly delicious, especially given that I'm not a fan of walnuts, with the intensely sweet, yet nutty topping working hand-in-hand with the ice cream.

Blondie

Blondie [$9.00] | vanilla ice cream and salted caramel sauce
To conclude the meal, the Chef sent out a Blondie, which is basically a brownie minus the chocolate. It was fantastic, my favorite of the bunch, with the salty caramel pairing gorgeously with the confection. A must try.

Michael Cimarusti and Crisi Echiverri

Michael Cimarusti with his better half and business partner, Crisi Echiverri.

I've heard some people bemoan the fact that Cimarusti's opened up "yet another" traditionalist seafood type joint, but when you achieve something on the level of Providence, I think you can pretty much do whatever the hell you want. The place is indeed off to a strong (and very busy--it was jam packed most of the evening) start. Though there were a couple service quibbles on this opening night, the food itself was almost all on point, yielding familiar, comforting sensations that nonetheless displayed the deft touch that you'd expect from a brigade that cut its teeth at the pinnacle of fine dining in Los Angeles. You could tell that there was a certain finesse, a certain clarity of flavors to the cooking here, making for a worthy sophomore effect from one of the City's most respected chefs.

Bar Nozawa at Sugarfish
212 North Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.276.6900
www.nozawabar.com
Wed 06/05/2013, 08:00p-10:10p

Sugarfish Beverly Hills Exterior

Sugarfish Beverly Hills opened recently in the old Madame Chocolat space, and the most interesting part of the debut was the acknowledgement of a "secret" bar in the back that would give diners a taste of the draconian practices of the original Sushi Nozawa. Indeed, the so-called Nozawa Bar is reservations-only; there's no menu--you eat what the Chef serves; no young kids are allowed; there are no modifications or substitutions; a minimum cancellation fee of $100 applies; and you eat fast, at a pace decided upon by the Chef. Just like old times right?

Kazunori Nozawa, though, is not to be found behind the bar (though he still does help buy the fish I'm told). Instead, the kitchen is helmed by one Osamu Fujita. Chef Fujita was born in Japan to a culinary family, and took an interest in the craft at an early age. He eventually made his way to the US, where he worked for Nozawa-san in Los Angeles before traveling around the country and opening various Japanese restaurants. The two have known each other for over 30 years.

Nozawa Bar doesn't have any sort of written menu, but you can expect an omakase of roughly 18 courses, priced at $150 a head, plus 18% service and 9% tax (there's also a cheaper $130 lunch option). You'll find a very abbreviated list of beverages available, and unfortunately, there is no option for corkage at the moment (which I hope will change). Click for a larger version.

To drink, we started with a round of Kirin Ichiban-Shibori [$8], a prototypical Japanese beer that was almost perfect for the situation: crisp, light, dry, a bit malty, yet with just enough substance to it.

1: Mozuku to Kani
Dungeness crab leg arrived sweet and supple, its pure, delicate goodness highlighted against the tangy, gelatinous base of mozuku seaweed in Japanese rice vinegar.

2: Kuromaguro to Tako no Sashimi
Next, a duo of sashimi, presented in Hokkaido wakame seaweed. Bluefin tuna came out soft, creamy almost, with a subtle, yet omnipresent salinity that was deftly brought out by a dab of soy. The live octopus was even better, showing off a beautiful texture, along with a mild taste that was perfectly accented by pinpoints of lemon and salt. We also enjoyed the suckers, or kyubaan, which had a delightful mix of crunchy and slimy consistencies.

3: Kuromagurotoro
Blue fin toro, meanwhile, was a beautiful example of the fish: melt-y and buttery, with a wonderfully briny finish. Great with a brush of murasaki.

Ika

4: Ika
Japanese squid was very solid as well, with a creamy, sticky body and a delicate taste, expertly perked up by pricks of salt and a finish redolent of shiso.

Uni

5: Uni
Sea urchin came from Santa Barbara, and was a paradigmatic presentation of the ingredient, conveying a cool, sweet, luscious flair that went perfectly with the umami-rich essence of the nori here.

6: Tarabagani
King crab was pretty fantastic, quite possibly the best piece of kani sushi I've had in fact. It blows the doors off the imitation crab that's so prevalent these days, displaying an utterly focused, true-to-form experience that I loved.

With the beers drunk up, we moved on to a bottle of the Nozawa Premium, Junmai, Saga Japan [$90]. It was a commendable sake: floral, fruity, and easy-drinking, with a smooth, yet dry character that transitioned to more boozy notes toward the close.

Hotate

7: Hotate
Hokkaido scallop was lovely, sweet and cool by itself, but divine when paired with that sour-salty yuzukosho-ponzu sauce drizzled on top.

8: Kanpachi
Japanese amberjack was a great example of the fish: firm, snappy even, with a refined, creeping brine to it.

9: Isebi no Temaki
Our first hand roll of the night featured lobster, and was pretty spectacular. The cool, creamy bits of the crustacean were delish, conveying a certain sweetness that paired gorgeously with the rice and the roll's crisp, savory seaweed wrapper.

10: Kumamoto Kaki
The Kumamoto was the oyster that made me like oysters, and tonight they were in perfect form: crisp, firm, meaty examples that blended their ocean-y goodness with the heat of the chili ponzu, all while the scallions made for some great astringent overtones.

Ankimo

11: Ankimo
It'd been a while since I'd had monkfish liver, so this was a nice treat, one that came out looking a bit like apricot ice cream! The dish certainly did give us a sweetness though, with the miso-vinegar-egg yolk dressing providing a strong (almost too strong) counterpoint to the subtle, earthy-briny relish of the ankimo.

12: Kinmedai
Getting back to the nigiri now, golden eye snapper was simply superb texturally--soft, yet with substance--and conveyed a very balanced, very well-integrated salinity.

Ikura

13: Ikura
Salmon roe was marinated in dashi, resulting in an amalgam of smoky, salty flavors that literally popped in your mouth. Very nice when taken with the nori.

Katsuo

14: Katsuo
Also to my liking was the skipjack tuna, served with a garlic ponzu. All the flavors here just came together beautifully, with the fish accentuated by its accompanying sauce while the scallion added an exclamation point on the back end.

Amaebi

15: Amaebi
Sweet shrimp was prepared with yuzu and shio, making for a spot on presentation of crisp, snappy amaebi that faultlessly balanced salt with a citric tartness.

16: Toro no Temaki
The toro hand roll was a textbook preparation of the dish, with the tuna, heightened by a dip in shoyu, really shining through as the star of the show.

Anago

17: Anago
A uniform cut of sea eel came out soft and hot, with a lovely sugary component in the sauce that made sense against the brininess of the fish.

Tamago

18: Tamago
We ended our parade of sushi with the traditional closer of egg, only this time, it wasn't quite the version that we were used to. Instead, the omelet here came stuffed with both shiso and umeboshi, making for an experience that melded sweet and sour flavors over an eggy base, all with an overarching essence of mint. Very cool!

19: Raichi no Aisukurimu
Dessert comprised a sphere of stark white lychee ice cream, its refined, yet almost candied sweetness working well enough with the tart, juicy morsels of strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, and blueberry.

Hojicha

20: Hojicha
An excellent roasted green tea (à la Urasawa) was a natural ending to the meal.

Our meal tonight was a strong one to be sure. The food was pretty much spot on the entire night, with high quality ingredients near-impeccably prepared, and service was similarly on point as well (I also appreciated the lighthearted demeanor of Chef Fujita-san). It's like what I'd always wanted the original restaurant to be like, and is a fitting experience to carry on the Nozawa legacy. Sushi fiends take notice: there's another contender in the pantheon of top sushi joints in LA.

I think things could be even better, though, with a few minor tweaks. I like the change of pace here with the vaunted warm rice, but it does make the sushi harder to eat. What I think should be done is to have Fujita-san apply soy sauce and any other accoutrements before serving (the preferred modus operandi for high-end places such as Mori and Zo). This way, diners wouldn't have to struggle with the rice breaking apart as they dip pieces (an issue that I definitely struggled with). Maybe I've been spoiled by the likes of Ohshima and Shunka, but I'd also like to see a selection of more exotic fish, as well as more variation in the menu day-to-day, both of which would make for more replay value. Finally, it'd be nice to slow down a bit as well. Things aren't as hasty as they were in Studio City, but the pacing could've certainly been more leisurely, in order to allow us to better savor the experience.

Barnyard Restaurant
1715 Pacific Ave, Venice, CA 90291
310.581.1015
www.barnyardvenice.com
Fri 06/07/2013, 08:25p-11:15p

Barnyard Exterior

As we probably all know by now, former Ubuntu superstar Jeremy Fox has taken up residence at Rustic Canyon, quite comfortably I might add. However, you might have forgotten that before Rustic there was Barnyard, the restaurant that the Chef was supposed to helm before suffering a rather public falling out with management back in November. With Fox out of the picture, owner Jose Bunge has brought in former Tasting Kitchen CdC Jesse Barber to take the reins.

About the Chef: Jesse Lawrence Barber grew up in Oregon, and after graduating from Sheldon High School in Eugene, attended Lane Community College to study psychology. He didn't graduate though, instead choosing to focus on a career in the culinary arts. In 2000, Barber began working at Bouchon and The French Laundry, serving as a commis, garde manger, and eventually, line cook. He completed his formal training at the Western Culinary Institute, finishing in 2003, then spent some time at Marché Restaurant in Eugene. Barber's next move was in 2005, when he took on a position at Bluehour in Portland. He left there in 2008, worked a brief stint at the vaunted Clarklewis with Casey Lane, then started at Decarli in Beaverton as a Sous Chef.

In June 2009, Barber relocated to Southern California with Lane to become his Chef de Cuisine at Abbot Kinney game-changer The Tasting Kitchen, but would leave by mid-2011 to start his own project, entitled Spilt Dinner. Spilt gave way to Assembly Restaurants, a collaboration with TK Wine Director Maxwell Leer (Bestia, LudoBites, The Bazaar) that would dissolve in September 2012, around the time that the Chef got married. Following Fox's departure, he became attached to Barnyard, the restaurant debuting on February 1st with wife Celia Barber (née Woodburn) on board as General Manager.

Barnyard's menu is sort of exactly what you'd expect in Venice, showcasing rustic-ish, farm-to-table-y plates meant for sharing. Click for a larger version.

To drink, we went with a bottle of the 2007 Cascina Degli Ulivi Piemonte Dolcetto Nibiô [$67]. This one was on the tannic side, with a balance of dark fruit and a dry, slightly earthy, astringent character on the back end.

TERRINES [$7.00] | choice of meat -OR- veggie
We commenced with Barnyard's take on the classic pâté de campagne, a coarse, gritty, salty presentation of the dish, with a definite piggy goodness to it that made perfect sense with the whole grain mustard. Perhaps a bit less spicy, a bit less earthy than some other versions I've had.

CRUDO

CRUDO [$12.00] | halibut and yellowtail
Crudo featured two cuts of fish. First was halibut, which arrived soft, supple, and expectedly mild on the palate, making it a good pair with a dab of the spicy dressing on the plate. The yellowtail, not surprisingly, showed off a fattier, fishier flair, with a more pronounced taste that worked with the lighter nuances and crunch of the radish.

BRAISED OCTO [$10.00] | olive-oil poached w/ fresh chick peas
Octopus was one of my favorites tonight. It came out nicely charred and a bit crunchy, with a savoriness to it that worked hand-in-hand with the sweet, spicy undertones in the dish. Really appreciated the chickpeas here as well, which did a great job moderating all the flavors at play while adding a bit of heft at the same time.

VEAL BONE MARROW [$12.00] | salsa verde
Bone marrow was a special this evening, one that we obviously had to try. It was a classic presentation of the ingredient, with the marrow coming to us trembling in place, slick and fatty, with a pronounced richness to it that was beautifully balanced by the piquancy of the salsa verde. Very good over the included toast.

PILOTA

PILOTA [$16.00] | italian fried rice & tomatoes + english peas + pecorino
Next was an uncommon version of risotto, which, as the menu states, really did amount to a sort of Italian fried rice. It was quite tasty though, something that I could just eat a big bowl of, with the firm, near crispy grains of rice melding well with the sweetish notes of the tomato and pea, all while the cheese added a bit of kick to the course.

CASSOULET [$10.00] | fresh shelling beans w/ sausage & pulled pork
The cassoulet was comforting, in particular the sausage, which was akin to a hamburger patty in terms of its texture and satisfying savoriness. Unfortunately I didn't get much from the pulled pork, though I did quite enjoy the weight of the beans in the dish, as well as the balance provided by the veggies.

PORK COPPA CHOP [$16.00] | fresh corn polenta + stone fruit + pork sugo
The pork chop showed off a nice char to it, with an astringency that paired well with the meat. The chop was tender, juicy, and easy to eat, though the sweetness from the stone fruit I found distracting. Nice polenta though, and I did appreciate the levity and zing imparted by the greenery.

7oz. BURGER [$15.00] | house ground angus w/pickles + peppers + butter lettuce + cheddar cheese, served w/fries
Nothing wrong with the burger, either. It was a pretty classic take, with the properly beefy patty playing off of the cheddar, all underneath some tangy overtones of mustard. Pickles and lettuce completed the combo, which was effective though perhaps unexciting. Nice fries, too, though I wasn't as keen on its dipping sauce.

HALIBUT

HALIBUT [$22.00] | vouvray, porcini, fava
Halibut was another special of the evening, and arrived cooked with Vouvray. The fish itself was as soft, supple, flaky and mild as you'd expect, and functioned as a fitting counterpoint to the savoriness of the porcini and fava present. My complaint here was that the bit of sauce atop the fish (crème fraîche perhaps?) rendered a certain tangy sweetness that just seemed off to me.

Dessert was a must, natch. Click for a larger version.

STICKY WHISKEY TOFFEE PUDDING [$8.00] | w/ whipped cream & toffee sauce
I enjoyed the pudding, finding it properly moist, with its mix of sugary and boozy flavors melding well with the comparative lightness of the cream here, all while the pinoli added some well-placed nutty nuances to the dessert.

SEASONAL FRUIT GALETTE [$6.00]
The galette was actually surprisingly delish, with a very pure, very pronounced apricot flavor that really captured and conveyed the essence of the fruit. Combined with the flaky crust, it formed a winning combination that was even better when taken with a bit of salty cheese.

Though Barber's cooking isn't as ambitious as what Jeremy Fox was going to put out here, Barnyard I think still works pretty well. It's a cozy sort of neighborhood place, with Cal-Med-ish cooking that's tasty and just compelling enough. Service was on point as well, making for an overall pleasant experience. Interestingly, word on the street is that Barnyard's owner is taking over the building next door as well, so I'm curious to see where that goes.

Invitation Only at Playground 2.0
220 E 4th St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
www.playgrounddtsa.com
Sat 06/15/2013, 07:00p-09:45p

Playground 2.0 Exterior

My last experience at IO was something to behold, an ambitious, playful, and uncompromisingly delicious dinner that I deemed the best dining experience in Orange County. As such, it wasn't a question of if I'd return, but rather, when. Now, as we should know by now, a normal meal at IO is priced at $250 a head, inclusive of all food, beverage, tax, and service. However, for this series, entitled "I've Got Friends in Low Places," the price was reduced to a mere $180, a relative bargain that gave me a good excuse to go back. The reason for the discount? The focus of these dinners was placed squarely on vegetables and other underappreciated ingredients in the kitchen. Sounds interesting.

Like last time, we got started with team introductions by Jason Quinn and a brief spiel on what IO was all about.

1: WELCOME COCKTAIL | aperol solace spritz
Our aperitif this evening was a reimagined Spritz, made with Firestone Walker's Solace wheat beer in place of prosecco. It really was a fitting substitution, with a blast of wheat-y, yeasty, spicy beer notes initially, which then transitioned gracefully to the bittersweet Aperol. Light, fun, refreshing, with a pretty cool color to boot.

2: EPIC FIRST BITE OF MEAT | stuffed savoy cabbage, Iberico de bellota collar, and ???? ???? filling, port caramelized shallots, potato purée
Our first course really was sort of epic, name aside. I loved the delicate, yet profoundly earthy, overarching nuances of foie gras here, which really played beautifully against the lingering, pork-y flavors of the Ibérico. The cabbage worked perfectly as a light, crisp counterpoint to the meat, and I much appreciated the tempering effect of that potato purée as well (though I could've done without the shallots). Yum.

3: FRESH HAWAIIAN HEART OF PALM CEVICHE | grapefruit, orange, jalapeño, tortilla
I'm generally not a fan of heart of palm, but really enjoyed this dish. In fact, it was probably the strongest preparation of the ingredient I've had, with the contrasting forces of sweet, sour, savory, acid, and a creeping undercurrent of spice working in perfect harmony. The textures here were also superb, and I especially enjoyed the crispy strips of tortilla. So here we have it: proof that it's perfectly possible to have a great ceviche without any sort of seafood, or even meat.

4: JICAMA: AN UNEXPECTED HERO | fish sauce, palm sugar, crispy shallots, lime, serrano aioli
A lot of what I wrote about the ceviche above can also be said for the jicama, which I'm also typically none too fond of. Here, I adored the textures as well, and the interaction between the lime, serrano, and fish sauce was spot on, really coming together cohesively to breathe life into an otherwise boring ingredient. Fantastic savoriness from the shallots as well, which really underscored the dish. Best. Jicama. Ever.

5: GUACAMOLE INSPIRED BY MAX | fried avocado, corn nuts, lime-jalapeño-avocado mousse, tomato, cilantro, red onion
Here was what amounted to a reconstructed guacamole. It really did convey the essence of the classic dish, rendered in differing textures and temperatures, though I would've liked some more onion, tomato, and cilantro to give the dish a bit more acidity. Loved the crunch of the Corn Nuts here.

Fun with Liquid Nitrogen

6: NITRO CACTUS PEAR MARGARITA
The staff then busted out the liquid nitrogen and mixed up a prickly pear margarita with 7 Leguas Blanco tequila (the real deal progenitor to Patrón), Cointreau, and lime. Taste-wise, this was pretty classic, with a great balance between sweet and sour flavors. What struck me most was the blazing magenta hue of the drink, as well as the soft, almost fluffy textures present.

7: GRILLED SWEET POTATO | lime marshmallow, hatch chile powder, pecan
I'm no fan of sweet potato (finding it, unsurprisingly, overly sweet generally), but Quinn and company worked it out, tempering its sugariness with some countervailing flavor profiles, the heat of the chile being particularly apropos. As one of my fellow diners remarked, this "tastes like Thanksgiving."

8: AJI AMARILLO TIRADITO | flute fish
We then commenced with a string of sashimi-style courses, with this first one serving as a sort of bridge between the influences of Latin America and Japan. It was none other than flute fish, or yagara, a real rarity that I'd only had before in sushi form at Shunka. It's a mild, delicate fish, serving here as a base on which the tangy, spicy aji amarillo could really sing.

9: BURNT MAUI ONION | albacore gently poached in ponzu, ponzu
Next, we had slices of albacore, lightly seared by being doused with hot ponzu, thus making for a great meaty bite to the fish. I also appreciated the sweet-savoriness imparted by the ponzu here, as well as how the onion gave the dish a sort of overarching char astringency.

10: BEET STAINED IVORY | ivory king salmon, horseradish, lemon, brioche, chive
Ivory king salmon is a variety of the standard fish that has an inability to process carotenoids, thus leaving its flesh white instead of orange. Here, it was given a splash of color via a beet cure. What surprised me was how well the horseradish cream cheese fared, imparting a lush, tangy character to the dish that really went along well with the fattiness of the fish. You could almost think of this as a sashimi-fied version of bagels and lox.

11: YUZU IS THE BEST CITRUS | shima aji loin, white soy
A beautiful platter of Japanese shima aji arrived next, dressed simply in yuzu and white soy. The pure, clean taste of the striped jack was dutifully highlighted here, accentuated by a splash of shiro shoyu and a fantastically ethereal whisper of citrus-y tartness from the yuzu.

12: BLACK GARLIC: BETTER THAN THE ORIGINAL | shima aji belly
Next, the belly of the striped jack was presented to us, doused in a black garlic vinaigrette. Here, the slightly more assertive relish of the belly actually stood up to the sweet-ish, syrupy sauce, which I was afraid would be completely domineering.

13: BUTTER LETTUCE WRAP | akaushi outside skirt, kimchi, ginger, scallion, peanut, crunchies
In my experience, I've found that American-grown wagyu just doesn't compare to its Japanese counterparts, but the Akaushi served tonight just might be an exception to that rule. I first tried the beef alone, and found it immensely flavorful, fatty, fantastically charred, and, unlike many skirts, properly tender. It was delicious to be sure, but the addition of the various accompaniments here really took the meat to the next level, adding beautiful layers of spice, astringency, and crunch. So good.

14: CAVA SANGRIA
A sangria of cava, white wine, vodka, and melon served as a perfect counterpoint to the heady flavors at play, and also the marked the start of our Spanish adventure. It really was delightful, showing off light, fruity, refreshing nuances with just a hint of boozy weight.

15: WHITE ASPARAGUS | chorizo vin, marcona almond ice cream
I'm quite the fan of asparagus, and the presentation here was one of the most intriguing I've had. The bitterness of the veggie was proudly displayed, masterfully offset by the tang of the chorizo. The crux of the dish, though, was that marcona ice cream, which was fantastic, really conveying the true taste of the almond while tying the course together beautifully.

16: CALÇOTADA EN SANTA ANA | grilled scallion, romesco, porron
Next, a homage to the classic Catalonian ingredient calçot. The scallions were grilled, and thus imbued with a marked char and bitterness that made absolute sense when taken with a dab of spicy, tangy romesco.

Porron

Along with the calçots came a porrón of beer, which Chef Quinn eagerly demonstrated for us.

Porron Spill

Others, however, were not nearly as graceful with it.

17: GRILLED STUFFED PIQUILLO PEPPER | idiazabal, pedro ximinez
Here was a spot on rendition of a traditional tapas dish, with the piquillo coming out sweet, smoky, and utterly juicy, a perfect complement to the salty, gooey Idiazabal hidden within.

18: ITALIAN WHITE WINE | 2010 Bera Vittorio E. Figli, Arcese, IGT
With this, we transitioned to Italy. This was a drinkable wine, thick on the palate, with an apparent fruitiness initially that's cut by a certain stone-y minerality and bright hit of acid.

19: THE SCHIZOPHRENIC ZUCCHINI aka THE RAW ZUCCHINI EXPLOSION | different textures and subtle nuances a la Ryan Carson
I'm generally not a huge fan of zucchini, but the dish really showed off the vegetable in the best possible way. It arrived in grilled, pickled, smoked, and raw forms, dressed in a red wine vinaigrette and topped with garlic chips. It was nice to experience the various forms and facets of the zucchini, a bevy of textures and tastes overarched by a focused smoky character, all leading to a lingering finish redolent of mint.

20: MILK SKIN CAPRESE | heirloom tomatoes, maldon, herb lemon vin
Here was a take on the classic insalata Caprese, but one constructed from an admixture of milk skin, olive oil, and heavy cream instead of mozzarella or burrata. The result really was reminiscent of the real deal, with the "cheese" serving as a great platform on which to enjoy the meaty cuts of tomato and the zesty herb-lemon dressing.

21: THE POWER OF LEMON AND OLIVE OIL | atlantic black sea bass
One of the highlights of the meal was certainly this black sea bass, which I'm going to say was the best version of the fish I've had. It arrived pretty much flawlessly prepared, firm, yet yielding to the bite, with a delicate, yet delectable taste that paired in stellar fashion with its accoutrements, making for a perfectly balanced dish. The power of lemon and olive oil indeed.

22: GRILLED CAULIFLOWER STEAKS | sultana- almond- caper relish, cauliflower purée
"Steaks" of cauliflower were firm, dense, and yes, even "meaty," amplified in essence by the surrounding purée. They showed off the inherent goodness of the vegetable commendably, accentuated by the tangy, sweet, nutty notes of the accompanying relish.

23: FAVA BEANS, LIVER, A NICE CHIANTI | frisée, croutons, lemon, bacon
"A census taker once tried to test me. I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice Chianti." If somehow you've been completely out of touch with pop culture for the last 20 years, that's the famous line from Hannibal Lecter that inspired this dish. Of course, we were merely talking about chicken liver here, not that of people, but it was tasty nonetheless. The liver conveyed all the deep, earthy notes you'd expect, countered here by lemon and frisée, all while the bacon added some well placed jolts of saltiness to the fray.

24: A NICE CHIANTI | 2010 Paterna, Chianti Colli Aretini DOCG
And here we have the aforementioned Chianti, nice indeed with its dry, somewhat tannic nature and loads of dark fruit.

Max Hirsch and Risotto

25: POTATO & PORCINI RISOTTO | as simple as it sounds
As we know from my previous meal here, Max Hirsch is quite the risotto maven, and tonight he presented a version made not with rice, but with potato. It was as simple as it sounds, but also as delicious, with the potato and mushroom forming a delectable combination that worked wonders with the lush, creamy base of the dish. Fantastic texture on those cubes of patate, too. I wanted a larger bowl of the stuff!

26: BRAISED ARTICHOKE AND MUSHROOM RAGU | creamy polenta board, San Marzano
No, that's not a pizza, but rather a disk of polenta topped with a "ragù" of artichoke, mushroom, and San Marzano tomato. The lack of meat (a key part of ragù) didn't stop this from being delicious. In fact, I had a second serving of it, and reveled in the sauce's tangy, yet uncompromisingly savory relish, masterfully moderated by that creamy polenta.

CRAFTSMAN PERSIMMON SOUR (Jarred Dooley)

CRAFTSMAN PERSIMMON SOUR (Jarred Dooley)

27: CRAFTSMAN PERSIMMON SOUR
At this point, Playground's Beverage Director Jarred Dooley came out to introduce our next libation. It was, unsurprisingly given his background, a beer, specifically a Persimmon Sour from Pasadena's Craftsman Brewing Co. I rather enjoyed it, really appreciating its classic interplay between sour, sweet, and funky forces.

28: ROASTED BEETS | caviar ranch dressing a la Richard Blais
The meal then took on a more "American" inclination, beginning with a caviar-ranch concoction inspired by a recipe from Richard Blais's cookbook Try This at Home: Recipes from My Head to Your Plate. Of course, Quinn took the extra step to make his own ranch, and the results were promising. As regular readers will know, I generally abhor beets, but the dressing here actually made them palatable, moderating the vegetable's blunt sugariness with a blast of salty, creamy, blue-tinted goodness.

29: CITRUS GLAZED COUNTY LINE CARROTS | purée, pickled tartare
This is one for the carrot fiends out there. There was a lovely crunch here from the glazed presentation, but the key for me was the tartar, which showed off a pretty remarkable tanginess that managed to effectively counteract the sometimes overbearing sweetness in the vegetable.

30: WESTERN BACON CHEESEBURGER | hold the bacon cheeseburger
Imagine a Western Bacon Cheeseburger from Carl's Jr (I'm sure we've all tried it at one point in our lives); now take away the beef, bacon, bun, and even the cheese. What you're left with is something that does a pretty remarkable job of mimicking the flavor profiles of the original burger.

UNICORN

31: UNICORN | bread, raw, roasted, pudding, hokkaido
We ended the savory section of the meal with a commixture of raw and roasted corn and cornbread, set against an enveloping dressing featuring Hokkaido uni. The corn really was the star of the show here, putting forth a sweetness that sort of melded along with the flavors of the sea urchin. Nice textures from the bread, too.

32: KOKOS COCONUT CHEESE
Our "cheese" course comprised a convincing preparation made from 90% coconut. Texturally, it was pretty much spot on, and taste-wise, it wasn't far off either, really conveying the flavors of cheese, but with a marked coconut-y undertone.

33: COBBLER D'MONTENEGRO
Quinn mentioned that one of his favorite cocktails is this here cobbler, and I can see why. It's a straightforward marriage of Amaro Montenegro, lemon, and simple syrup that somehow manages to be more than the sum of its parts. I just loved the aromatic, herb-y qualities in the drink, and how that worked against the sweet-n-sour nuances present.

34: BEET CHEESECAKE AMUSE | salt roasted beets, Granny Smith vinaigrette, cream cheese curd, pine nuts
Somehow, I managed to forget to snap a pic of this course (it happens on rare occasion), but you can see a photo of it here from Andy Gavin's report on IO. That's a shame, though, as I thoroughly enjoyed it. The lactic tanginess of the cream cheese was spot on, serving as a fantastic counterweight to the heft of the beet, all while the pine nuts added a delightful crunch to the dish. Just a great, well-integrated little bite.

35: CARROT AND CITRUS | Valencia orange cake, carrot and ginger marshmallow sorbet, candied walnuts
Here, we're talking the bold, spicy zing of ginger paired with the sweetness of carrot, all over a lovely base of citrus cake, with the walnut acting as an interesting focal point to boot. Fun, and a surprise to the palate.

36: CHOCOLATE AND REPURPOSED COFFEE | Bittersweet cremeux, coffee cream, chocolate-almond shortbread
We then began an exploration of the various faces of coffee. Here, coffee grounds were mixed with a cream sauce, making for a bittersweet counterpoint to the classically chocolate-y flavors at play.

37: WHOLE BEAN COFFEE
Next, whole coffee beans (sourced from Portola Coffee Lab if I recall) were steamed for over two hours in the restaurant's combi oven. The result was a coffee experience unlike any other I've had, with an herbaceous, almost tea-like quality to the liquid that nonetheless conveyed the quintessence of the bean. Very cool.

38: COFFEE AVERNA
Finally, we were given ground coffee steeped in Amaro Averna. In this case, the taste of coffee was front and center, keenly complemented by the sweet, viscous liqueur.

39: LEMON AND FENNEL REFRESHER | frozen lemon mousse, dehydrated lemon meringue, pickled baby fennel
Our last plate perked up the palate with its zesty blend of fennel and lemon...

40: GOOD NIGHT | Beni di Batasiolo. Barolo Chinato
...Thus clearing the way for this 100% Nebbiolo Barolo Chinato, a perfect digestif and after dinner sipper with its minty, herbaceous, spicy facets.

This time around, we were given a printed menu at the conclusion of the dinner (a welcomed addition). Click for larger versions.

Quinn and his team once again delivered a standout episode of kitchen theater, melding modernity with tradition, highlighting ingredients in their best possible light while taking us on a trip to Mexico, Japan, Spain, Italy, and back. It was eye opening at times to see how some of the produce tonight was utilized and presented, and the overall experience tended toward fun, flippant, and facetious, yet was underscored by some serious cooking. I said it before and I'll say it again: this place needs to be on your culinary radar.

Yamakase Restaurant
Los Angeles, CA 90034
www.yamakase.com
Thu 06/27/2013, 08:00p-01:40a

One of my favorite discoveries in recent times has been Yamakase, the semi-secret, omakase-only Japanese eatery opened by Chef Kiyoshiro Yamamoto and his business partner Stan Liu. I was really impressed by my dinner here last December, and had been thinking about a return visit ever since. This wouldn't be just any ol' meal though. No, I wanted a follow-up to our epic 1995 Champagne horizontal tasting at Urasawa. As such, we opted for a vertical tasting this time around, one featuring perhaps the most famous Champagne of them all: the house of Moët & Chandon's Dom Perignon. Oh, and it happened to be my birthday dinner as well!

Yamakase Interior

Above, we see the extent of the restaurant. Yamakase comprises not much more than a singular bar surrounding the kitchen, one seating up to 11 diners.

1978 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

1978 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

We let Yama-san choose the ordering of wines, and he opted to go in chronological order, kicking things off with the 1978 Dom Perignon, the oldest in the group. It certainly tasted its age, coming in not very bubbly and with a distinct oxidative quality, giving in a sherry-like or maderized character joined by notes of nutty caramel. More interesting than good.

1: Hokkaido Uni
Moving into the food now, here was a spoon of Hokkaido uni, soft-boiled quail egg, and truffle salt, joined by a caviar-topped cucumber. It was a luxurious way to begin the meal, with the truffle-y overtones working beautifully with the sweet, creamy sea urchin, all while the egg lent a certain gravitas to the bite. I also appreciated the salty kick of the caviar here, as well as how the cucumber contributed both texture and lightness to the course.

1980 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

1980 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

What a difference two years make! The 1980 Dom Perignon was much fresher, though still mature, with a distinct breadiness and just a whisper of oxidation, all balanced by a lively acidity.

2: Ayoagi, Kisu, Tairagi
Here was a troika of orange clam, Japanese whiting, and pen shell, lightly dressed and accompanied by Naruto wakame and sesame. The sharp, focused brine of the various seafood was proudly conveyed, well-integrated and replete with a great mix of disparate textures. I especially appreciated the kisu fish, which had a firm, satisfying bite to it that was almost shellfish-like. Fantastic earthiness from the sesame as well, which did a great job moderating the strong flavors at play.

3: Kyoto Tofu
Now, the first of Yama-san's signature spoon duets. In the front, we had Kyoto tofu with tomato, olive, and truffle salt, in effect a sort of reimagined insalata Caprese. It really did recall the classic dish, with the tofu serving as a fitting replacement for mozzarella, the whole thing nicely balanced and imbued with a tinge of truffle goodness. This was followed up by a spoon featuring the tofu along with Japanese sea urchin and soy sauce. Here, I enjoyed the mild notes of the tofu at first, which then transitioned seamlessly to the richness and depth of the uni, while the finish was again suggestive of bean curd.

Big Salt Rock

Yama-san grates from a massive block of salt that he's been using for at least 15 years.

4: Tai Hara
Our first course of sashimi brought us snapper belly dressed in crab innards sauce and sprinkled with yuzu. I quite liked this, with the fish serving as a dense, yet supple base on which the citrus and earthy kanimiso could really dance.

1982 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

1982 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

I'm happy to report that the 1982 Dom Perignon, my birth year wine, was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the evening. It was an eminently balanced bubbly, mature, yet remarkably vigorous, with a perfect toasty depth to it. A revelation in aged Champagne.

5: Kusshi Kaki
Kusshi oyster was the star of our second spoon duo. Up front, it was joined by Santa Barbara uni, yuzu, and Japanese sea salt. The citrus was key here, coming through forcefully on the attack, with the creamy, salty oyster-urchin combo making itself known from the midpalate to a long, lingering finish redolent of seawater. Bringing up the rear was Kusshi with blue crab, sesame cream, and truffle-infused egg. Here, the sweetness of the crab was the hero, joined by the nutty-earthy component from the sesame (though there was perhaps a bit too much of it), while the oyster once again came through on the close.

Kegani

6: Kegani
Yama-san made an impressive display with these here hairy (or horsehair) crabs, which he dispatched right before us. They were prepared simply via steaming, and presented unadorned, thus giving us the true, tender, sweet essence of kegani. Tasty, though actually not all that different from your everyday crab.

1985 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

1985 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

Despite the torn label, the 1985 Dom Perignon was another winner. I found it surprisingly crisp and youthful, with a fantastic interplay of citrus-y and yeast-y notes, all underscored by a slight boozy undercurrent. Smooth, and even easy-drinking.

Plum Somen

Here, we see Yama-san preparing our somen course. The pinkish noodles definitely caught our eye.

7: Hamo Somen
We're right around the peak of hamo eel season, so I wasn't surprised to see the conger pike featured tonight, joined by ruddy strands of umeboshi somen (a nod to the pickled plum typically served with the fish), junsai, and Japanese chive. I quite enjoyed this course, finding a great balance between the slightly tart noodles and the meaty, yet mild cuts of hamo, all while the chive added a modicum of levity to the fray. Interesting textural component from the water shield, too. Yum.

Here, Yama-san busts out his hamokiri knife and shows off his hamo honegiri bone cutting skills.

1988 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

With the 1988 Dom Perignon, we switched glasses to the more traditional Champagne flute meant for younger wines. The '88 was actually surprisingly mature for its age, great on the nose, with a fruity, caramel-y, acidic, slightly oxidized character. Probably past its peak.

8: Kanpachi
Kanpachi came from Kumamoto on Japan's southerly Kyushu island. The amberjack was blanched by a quick dip in hot water, then served with a sesame-ponzu condiment. Texturally, I appreciated the fish's firm, meaty consistency, while its delicate flavor was keenly complemented, yet not dominated, by the sauce.

9: Kuromaguro
Bluefin tuna from Spain was cured in soy sauce and sake, mixed in with wasabi and pine nuts, then topped with sea urchin. The marination process added a considerable depth to the dish, but the key was the wasabi, which contributed a spicy undertone to the fish that made it rather interesting, especially when taken with the crunchy nutty bits here. I would've preferred thinner slices though, to make for a smoother, silkier mouthfeel to the tuna.

1995 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

1995 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

Our sole representative from the decade of grunge and O.J. was the 1995 Dom Perignon, which was all sorts of amazing. I loved the stone fruit undertones present here, and how the wine's crisp, citrus-y flavors interacted with hints of its toasty beginnings. A perfect balance between youth and maturity; I'm curious to see how this one develops.

10: Chawanmushi
Tonight's requisite chawanmushi featured Japanese sea urchin, Dungeness crab, baby scallop, junsai, and yuzu. It was a hot, hearty dish, a pleasant mish-mash of various tastes and textures overarched by pin pricks of citrus-y tartness.

11: Mushi Tai
Even more comforting was a soup featuring sake-steamed red snapper, root vegetables, shimeji, and kikurage, set in a Japanese gravy dusted with sansho pepper. I rather liked this one, finding it complex, multifaceted, with the briny, firm character of the fish melding well with the weight of the veggies, all while the pepper added an almost ephemeral spice to the dish. Lovely texture from the wood ear, too. Delish!

2002 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

2002 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

Moving on now to the young stuff, the 2002 Dom Perignon certainly tasted of its youth. It was dry, minerally, and uncommonly crisp, with a somewhat tart citrus-y twang. Tight and a bit austere now, but there's probably a lot of potential here.

12: Beef Sashimi on Toast
Raw beef was paired with crab and Italian truffle cheese, making for a sort of unholy cheese steak. It was as tasty as it sounds though, with the meat and cheese combo working in flawless fashion, all under a veil of truffle-y goodness.

2004 Château Pavie

Knowing that Yama-san would inevitably be serving some wagyu, I brought along a bottle of 2004 Chateau Pavie. It was superb, really reminding us of the joys of a top notch Bordeaux. I loved its dry, tannic, oaky, somewhat earthy character initially, when then transitioned beautifully to juicy notes of dark fruit on the finish. Impeccably balanced, nuanced, smooth, and uncommonly delicious--I want to try this again in a few years.

Wagyu Tenderloin

Speaking of beef, here we see Yama-san slicing a beautiful cut of A5 Kagoshima tenderloin.

13: Kagoshima Gyuniku
The aforementioned tenderloin was cooked to a medium-rare temperature, lightly doused with a soy sauce-onion condiment and truffle salt, then served with a small salad. The wagyu itself was particularly tender, gelatinous almost, with a marked beefiness that I found immensely satisfying. I appreciated the levity imparted by the salad here, but the sweet, tangy sauce wasn't all that necessary, as the beef could easily stand alone.

2003 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

2003 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

For the sushi courses to follow, we opened our last remaining Champagne, the 2003 Dom Perignon. This one showed off the youthfulness of the '02, but on an even larger scale. Think lots of citrus here, with a dry, steely minerality and bright acidity. Refreshing, but definitely in need of some cellaring.

14: Chutoro Sushi
Medium fatty tuna was a great example of the style, a deft balance of fattiness and fishiness with a light hit of soy initially to set the stage. Magnifique.

15: Toro Sushi
The full fat version was even better, with the intensity of the fish complemented, but not overshadowed by the application of truffle salt and wasabi.

16: Ki-Aji Sushi
Here was a "special" type of aji sourced from around Kyushu, one that Yama-san mentioned was particularly difficult to find in the US (99% of it stays in Japan we were told). Indeed, it was very mild, very subtle for mackerel, with a delicate, nuanced brine that grew in intensity toward the finish. Very cool.

17: Awabi Kayu
Our final savory course of the meal was undoubtedly one of my favorites, comprising a rice potage of six-day Japanese black abalone, yuba, zasai, and truffle butter. I loved the rich, hearty broth, positively imbued with umami-laced brine. The abalone itself was spot on as well, fantastic texturally and a great foil to the crunchy tang of the pickled mustard. Comforting and cozy, yet complex and multifaceted--something I could just eat a big heaping bowl of.

Eat Your Veggies

Yes, Yama-san's quite a ham for the camera.

Opening Wine Bottle with Knife

Now we come to the evening's pièce de résistance in terms of wine, which, unsurprisingly given its age, had a rather uncooperative cork, forcing Yama-san to taken on drastic measures to dislodge it.

1961 Château Guiraud

The 1961 Chateau Guiraud was a bottle that I'd been holding in my cellar for some time now, just waiting for the perfect opportunity to drink. Tonight was the night, and the wine did not disappoint at all. It was probably the best dessert wine I've had, and one of my most memorable wines overall, even surpassing the legendary '01 d'Yquem (though I'm sure that'll become much, much better with age--I'm still holding on to a bottle). The Sauternes was a gorgeous mahogany tone, and conveyed a subtle, subdued, refined sweetness that wasn't cloying or overly showy at all (a problem with younger wines). This was joined by some nutty notes, a tinge of acidity, and even some booziness, all making for a perfectly balanced, mature sticky. Still plenty of life left--this one really made me want to buy up more old Sauternes!

18: Asai Sorbet
Dessert consisted of an açaí berry sorbet, a bright, bracing creation that put forth contrasting notes of sour and sweet--great as a palate cleanser.

Ars Italica Caviar

19: Ossetra Caviar
We thought we were done at this point, but then Yama-san busted out a beautiful tin of Ars Italica Italian oscetra caviar that he'd just purchased in the morning. We then took spoonfuls of the salty, yet somehow creamy roe and ate it with the Guiraud, the Sauternes really bringing out the salinity of those globules. An over-the-top, luxurious, yet fitting conclusion to the meal.

Dinner tonight came out to a not-unreasonable $216 per person for food only, with all the booze purchased and brought separately (there's no corkage fee here). The meal served as sort of a confirmation that the Chef here has a unique style that's quite unlike that of any of his contemporaries in LA. Yama-san's got a certain brashness and irreverence to him that I adore, as well as a knack for presenting unique, luxurious ingredients in a fashion that blends tradition with some fusion-y elements. The end result is an experience worth seeking out to be sure--get a seat here if you can.

Flores Restaurant
2024 Sawtelle Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
424.273.6469
www.floreslosangeles.com
Mon 07/01/2013, 08:15p-11:00p

Flores Exterior

The latest addition to the burgeoning Little Osaka dining scene opened on June 11th in the old Sawtelle Kitchen space. Flores is the work of Stanford grad and home accessory designer Amal Flores, who constructed the restaurant in the building that, decades before, was home to Greenson Gallery, where his sculptor father Gene Flores exhibited back in 1969. The kitchen here is run by the husband-and-wife team of Rob Lawson (Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Gordon Ramsay) and Angela Hernandez (The Bazaar, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Corton). Also on board is Spaniard Cesar Bermundez Cifuentes, who comes to us from Barcelona and handles Pastry Chef duties. The front-of-the-house, meanwhile, is headed by General Manager and San Francisco native Dagny Mendelsohn (Macao Trading Company, Employees Only, Bar 11, Schiller's, Pastis, all in NYC), while Serge Milenkovic (RivaBella, Little Dom's) helms the beverage program.

Flores' menu emphasizes the modern rustic mantra that's all the rage these days, but the plates seem to exude a bit ambition than the norm. As far as the drinks go, you'll find a reasonably-priced wine list assembled by Milenkovic, along with a smattering of beers as well. In the future, look out for breakfast, lunch, and even brunch options. Click for larger versions.

We wanted to start with something fun and fizzy, and thus went for a bottle of the Carletto Prosecco NV [$29]. It was a lightweight sparkler: crisp, acidic, and effervescent, with a sweet, apple-y character to it and a slightly boozy backbone.

Deviled Eggs [$6.00] | crispy pig ear, pimenton
Being the egg floozy that I am, these were a no brainer, and as tasty as I'd imagined. The egg was clearly the hero, but I loved the hit of salt added by the crunchy bits of pig here, as well as how the paprika imparted an undercurrent of spice to the dish.

Pig Cheek Croquetas [$10.00] | seaweed aioli
Pork was also used to good effect here, with the croquettes coming out crisp-creamy and undeniably piggy, nicely tempered by the tangy taste of those pickles.

Ocean Trout Crudo [$14.00] | lemon and crème fraiche
A crudo of trout was excellent, with the supple, yet substantial fish really coming to the fore, positively imbued with a fantastic, lingering smokiness and brine that paired swimmingly with the classic flavors of crème fraîche and dill.

Kanpachi Ceviche [$14.00] | young thai coconut, lime, grapefruit
The amberjack ceviche was similarly superb, with the fish forming a great base on which to really enjoy the bright, aromatic, Asian-y flavors at play. You probably want to get this.

Tokyo Turnips [$8.00] | wakame butter
Tokyo turnips were crunchy and juicy, with a mild, vegetal relish that made sense with the savory, umami-laden butter.

Fresh Naps, just in case we got our hands dirty with the next course.

Grilled Prawns [$16.00] | cajun spice, lemon aioli
Prawns were lovely, thoroughly cooked, yet not overdone, with a delightful char to go along with their inherent sweetness. I loved the Cajun seasonings here as well, which managed to complement the shrimp without dominating it. Great exclamation point from the lemon, too.

Chicken Liver Bruschette [$12.00] | beetroot, cherries, bacon
The bruschetta was on point as well, with a deft balance between sweet and liver-y flavors interjected by salty pricks of goodness from the bacon. I really appreciated the juiciness of the cherries here to boot.

For our heartier courses, we ended up opting for the Clos de Gilroy, Grenache, Central Coast 2012 [$39]. I quite liked this one, finding it a very drinkable, velvety example of Grenache, spicy and herby at first, with a juicy smack of berry fruit coming in later. Yum.

Broccolini [$9.00] | garlic, chile, lemon
Moving on to the righthand side of the menu now, we began with the broccolini, which was rather nice. What struck me here was the sheer smokiness of the vegetable, which lingered long on the palate, tempered by the zestiness of lemon and a subtle veil of heat from the chile.

Meatballs [$13.00] | tomato, olive, mint
Meatballs were classic in essence: meaty, straightforwardly satisfying spheres underscored by a delicate touch of minty levity. Particularly enjoyable when taken with the included bread.

Poach Egg & Stewed Beans [$13.00] | smoked ham hock
Next up was the dish formerly known as Texas caviar. I say "formerly," as the restaurant was forced to change the name because customers were ordering it expecting actual fish roe. In any case, it was a commendable version of the American Southern specialty, with the beans conveying a nice weight to them, balanced by the bright, tangy flavors in the course, all while the ham added a backbone of saltiness to the mix. You can't go wrong with that poached egg, either. My only complaint here was that the accompanying bread was overly chewy.

Soft Shell Crab Sandwich [$15.00] | avocado, green tomato, brioche
I had some trepidations about the soft shell crab, but the kitchen worked it out here. The SSC itself was actually surprisingly tasty, properly crispy with nice depth of flavor to it that paired well with the various accoutrements, the sweetish brioche roll especially. Lovely tangy counterpoint from the okra, too.

Hanger Steak [$24.00] | pomme puree, smoked beef fat jus
The hanger was a prototypical example of the steak, with the meat coming out not particularly tender, but loaded with deep, smoky nuances and a nice crust. I liked how its flavors were augmented by the jus here, as well as the crunch and bitterness of the radicchio, but the onions were a touch sweet for me. The pommes puree, meanwhile, was pretty much spot on, a laudable representation of the dish that just worked beautifully with the steak.

Above, we see Cifuentes' dessert menu, short but sweet. Click for a larger version.

Blackberry Cobbler [$8.00] | creme fraiche ice cream, maple syrup
Cifuentes' cobbler was a worthy effort from someone's who'd never made one prior to this. It was exactly what you'd expect: hot, sweet, and fruity, with the crumbly crust moderating everything, all while the ice cream contributed a modicum of lightness to the dessert.

Strawberries [$12.00] | vinegar caramel, yogurt espuma
Strawberries, meanwhile, were pretty amazing, some of the sweetest I've had in fact, their natural flavor enhanced by the sugary swipes of caramel in the bowl, with the yogurt serving as the perfect foil.

Lemon Posset [$10.00] | almond, cognac
A posset of lemon was similarly delicious, with the sourness of the lemon faultlessly paired with the dessert's sweet, boozy notes. Utterly refreshing, with some great textures, too.

Chocolate & Olive Oil [$10.00] | citrus, lemon marshmallow
Chocolate and citrus were married here in commendable fashion, with the olive oil really showing through as a savory component, underscoring the entire dish. A smart exploration of sweet and salty coming together.

Banana Ice Cream [$3.00]
We had to try one of Flores' housemade ice creams, and ended up with banana. It was a great choice, with the dessert really displaying the pure, unmitigated essence of the fruit. If that wasn't enough, the sweet, cinnamon-y crumbles here worked as a perfect complement. Delish.

Hernandez and Lawson have aimed pretty high with their cooking here, and have hit the mark almost completely. The duo seems to touch upon all the notes that are so prevalent in the LA culinary landscape these days, presenting a menu that's approachable and unfussy, farm-to-table and whatnot, yet have done so with a certain finesse, a certain panache that elevates their cuisine above the norm. I came away from dinner quite satisfied indeed, and am curious to see where the team takes it from here.

Corazón & Miel Restaurant
6626 Atlantic Ave, Bell, CA 90201
323.560.1776
www.corazonymiel.com
Wed 07/03/2013, 08:15p-12:20a

Corazon y Miel Exterior

Bell is best known for two things: corruption of its municipal leadership, and La Casita Mexicana. However, it can add a third item to that list with the opening of Corazon y Miel ("heart and honey"), which undoubtedly represents another step towards the City's culinary legitimacy. The restaurant is the work of Salvadoran-American chef Eduardo Ruiz, Travis Hoffacker, and managing partner Robin Chopra. Ruiz cooked for two years at Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo's seminal Animal, and also worked a stint at Diego Hernandez's Corazón de Tierra in Baja. In 2011, he formed catering company Whim Kitchen with Chopra. The two LA natives were actually childhood friends, and reconnected once Ruiz started culinary school in Pasadena, realizing that they both shared a passion for food. Whim started off hosting underground dinners in a series called "Under the Table," and soon their catering business began to take off as well. As such, they took over Corazon y Miel's space, intending to use it to expand Whim, but eventually decided to turn the building into a restaurant, bringing on board Cali Banh Mi's Hoffacker, a friend of theirs, in the process. The much-needed restaurant debuted on March 2nd this year.

Corazon y Miel Interior

Corazon y Miel occupies the site once home to a cocktail lounge, a fairly intimate space with perhaps room for 50 diners. A bar dominates one side of the structure, while tables line the other. There are also three small booths at the front, as well as a private room in the back that I'm not sure is being used for anything at this point.

Votiva Margarita [$10.00] | Our house Margarita served in a traditional Mexican candle glass, Cherry "Wick"
Platoon of Death [$8.00] | El Pelotón de la Muerte Mezcal, Habanero Shrub, Sour Chili Rim
Speaking of those three booths, we took a seat at one of them and ordered up some cocktails as we waited for our table to get ready. First was the restaurant's signature Votiva Margarita, a beautiful rendition of the classic drink with its balance of tartness and sweet spice. The Platoon of Death, meanwhile, was much more in-your-face, a thick, viscous shot that gave up intense blasts of sour, spicy, smoky, and salty flavors, all leading to a boozy burn on the finish.

Art

We also took the opportunity to examine some of the original artwork on display, much of which is available for purchase, at very reasonable prices I might add.

Salva-Rita [$10.00] | El Pelotón de la Muerte Mezcal, Cointreau, Lime, Agave
Buho Rojo [$10.00] | Milagro Blanco, Pineapple Juice, Amaretto, Grenadine, Lime
The Salva-Rita was an ostensibly Salvadoran riff on the margarita, and had its own charms as well, a very balanced, well-integrated cocktail with a pleasing backbone of mezcal. The Buho Rojo was similarly delicious, with loads of pineapple on the attack leading to a remarkably sweet, floral spice that made it quite easy drinking.

Corazon y Miel's menu has expanded in both scope and price since opening, and features Chef Ruiz's updated takes on pan-Latin classics; some have even likened the food to a Latino version of Animal. We went for the "Fire the Menu" option, which allows diners to sample everything on the menu for $175, a substantial discount compared to ordering each item individually. To drink, cocktails (and there are a lot of 'em) are a must here. The restaurant opened with Christian Pulido behind the bar, but I believe he's gone, replaced by the capable Darwin Manahan. There's also a smattering of surprisingly interesting beers available, and even a couple wines, if you insist. Click for larger versions.

Patatas Fritas [$4.00] | house potato chips, scallion ash dip
Housemade potato chips were spot on: salty, crunchy slivers of patata goodness that I could easily munch on alone. However, that scallion ash condiment was uh-mazing, a smoky, deeply-flavored, and beautifully-tinted dip that had me wanting more.

Avocado Frito [$6.00] | avocado, coconut, mango & habanero chutney
The fried avocado was a fun little dish. The hero here was clearly the aguacate, its lush, creamy character on display, joined by a fantastically crisp, savory, coco-crust and hints of sweetness from the chutney. Interestingly enough, this item also appears, unchanged, on the dessert menu.

'Dulce de Puerco'

"Dulce de Puerco" [$5.00] | bacon, dates, whipped cotija cheese, mustard seed cider
Here was an updated version of the ubiquitous dish of bacon-wrapped dates, a Latin-ized version of Suzanne Goin's famed preparation if you will. The classic interplay between salty and sweet was well represented here, accented by a delightful touch of char and the creamy weight of the cotija.

Wedge Salad [$8.00] | iceberg, chili de arbol blue cheese, bacon & potato crisp, herbs
Ruiz's riff on the classic wedge salad was certainly commendable as well, with the crisp, juicy shards of lettuce melding gorgeously with the zesty, piquant dressing, all while the crispy bits added lovely pinpoints of saltiness to the fray.

Corazon y Miel [$3.00]
Corazon y Miel's namesake dish did not disappoint, coming out as a tiny bowl of chicken hearts, mixed in with a honeyed dressing, cilantro, and red onion. The corazones showed off a satisfying bite, with a lingering, earthy savoriness to them that was keenly tempered by the tang and sweetness of its accoutrements.

Ceviche de Corazon [$11.00] | shrimp, octopus, burnt peanut, house tortilla chips
The ceviche was universally praised at the table, and with good reason. The combo of shrimp and octopus was on point: tender, yet with a good bite, a perfect match for the bright flavors at play and the slight undercurrent of heat in the dish. What took this over the top, though, was the use of peanut as cancha, which added a marvelous, smoky, nutty component to the course. Fantastic textures on this one, too.

Jalapeño y Tocino [$6.00] | bacon, jalapeño, chorizo, street corn salad
In this oft-referenced "homage to street food," a singular jalapeño is stuffed with chorizo, wrapped in bacon, and placed atop a mound of corn. It's about as tasty as it sounds, a mélange of salty and spicy flavors moderated by the creamy sweetness of elote, all with the red onion on top adding a bit zing to the mix. Yum.

Ensalada de Cueritos [$7.00] | pig skin 2 ways, chili con limon, candied citrus zest
Here we had a duet of pork rind. The first was the cueritos, in which the pig skin is pickled, resulting in a slick, snappy, jellied consistency. It was actually restrained in its porkiness, with a pretty delicate flavor on its own that worked well with the sharply citric, spicy notes in the dish. We also had some classic chicharrones, crunchy, salty, and oh-so satisfying, perfect for scooping up the cueritos. Along with the course came a small taster of Coronado Brewing's Orange Avenue Wit, which ended up pairing perfectly with the pork, its bright, spicy, citrus-y flavors working hand-in-hand with the dish.

Carnitas Estilo Francés [$8.00] | pork rillete, coke reduction, pickled vegetables
Ruiz's version of pork rillettes was uncommonly tender (and quite uncommon, overall), yet expectedly porcine. The Coke reduction here was fortunately restrained in its sweetness, but the key was the pickled veggies, which added a countervailing crunch and tartness to the dish that really balanced things out.

Pelón y Beso [$8.00] | Milagro Blanco, Casera Margarita Mix, Liquid Tamarind Candy, Habanero Shrub
Vino De Iglesia [$8.00] | Chamomile Infused Sake, Elder Flower, Luxardo Maraschino, Grenadine, Lemon, Fresh Cherries
Lima Prohibida [$10.00] | Barsol Pisco, Luxardo Maraschino, Grapefruit, Lime, Piloncillo, Peychaud's Bitters
More cocktails. The Pelón y Beso conveyed a sour, puckering quality to it, joined by a sweet spice from the tamarind and a finish redolent of habanero. It even comes with an extra shot (beso) to share. Next was the Vino De Iglesia, my favorite of the trio with its soft, smooth nuances and deft mix of sweet, fruity, and floral flavors. The Lima Prohibida, finally, conveyed a sharp, tart, citric base with undertones of booze, tempered by just a whisper of piloncillo sugariness.

Wild Boar Chilaquilles [$14.00] | guajillo, roasted carrot crema, queso casera, fried egg
Corazon y Miel's take on chilaquiles was quite to my liking. I loved the sheer mix of different tastes and textures here, but with the spicy, savory, deeply-flavored boar remaining the clear star of the dish. There's lots going on here, but it all comes together cohesively (and deliciously).

Market Fish [$15.00] | steelhead trout, black mole, cassava, pickled cauliflower, red onion, almonds
Steelhead arrived flaky, juicy, and super buttery, with a hearty, mole-kissed flair to it that went superbly with the starchy cassava, all while the cauliflower and onion added a great counterbalancing acidity to things.

Corn & Black Bean Sopes [$14.00] | fried masa biscuit, corn salad, black bean guisado, pickled onion, habanero
Sopes were classic in essence, as well as delicious. The thick, hefty masa formed a substantial base to the dish, on top of which the corn and black bean really worked together, making for a straightforward, satisfying combination perked up by the kick of habanero and onion.

Arroz con Pollo [$13.00] | marinated quarter chicken, chorizo & chickpea rice, cherry tomato & jicama salad
Chicken came out tender, juicy, and with a good depth of flavor to it. Even more interesting, though, was the arroz, which had a nutty, sweet, earthy character that, when paired with the jicama, made for a really interesting, multifaceted compliment to the bird.

Churrasco a la Plancha [$20.00] | sirloin strip, chimichurri, black bean guisado, fries
The most expensive item on the menu is actually worth a try. The steak wasn't the most tender, but was positively teeming with succulent, beefy goodness. It was certainly enjoyable alone, but the accompanying chimichurri was simply marvelous, adding a bevy of bright, tangy notes to the dish that really paired perfectly with the heady flavors of the meat. The stewed black beans and fries on the side weren't anything to sneeze at, either.

Lomo Hash [$16.00] | petite tender, potatoes, bell peppers, poached egg, wasabi
Ruiz's tenderloin hash was certainly one of my favorites of the night. The meat itself was pretty much spot on--juicy, tender, and with a pretty remarkable lushness for lomo. The combination of potatoes and peppers just made absolute sense with the meat, and I loved the overarching lushness of that egg, too. Didn't really get much wasabi, though.

Salsa Verde [$12.00] | Milagro Blanco, St. Germain, Cucumber, Cilantro, Jalapeño, Lime
Mojito [$9.00] | Flor de Caña, Lime, Sugar, Mint Soda
The Salsa Verde, unsurprisingly, tasted like salsa verde, but one with a distinct sweet-sour component to it, livened up by an overarching cucumber presence. One of my dining companions also ordered a Mojito, my old standby. It was a classic interpretation of the drink, pretty much flawless, with a particularly appealing minty quality to it.

Pork Belly Sandwich [$10.00] | spicy adobo bbq, celery blue cheese slaw, fries
At this point, we moved on to the meat-between-bread portion of the menu, and first to act was this BBQ pork sandwich. The belly itself was meltingly tender, with a marked spicy sweetness to it, though it veered overly sugary for me, especially when taken with the sweet-ish roll. Fortunately though, the celery slaw made short work of the dish's heftiness, cutting through it all with aplomb.

Atlantic Burger [$11.00] | lamb, lime aioli, curtido, rajas de chile, cotija whip, fries
More to my liking was the Atlantic, which really showcased the earthy, heady savor of lamb. Indeed, the patty's ovine flavors were proudly conveyed here, only slightly tempered by the mount of veggies and cotija on top.

Corazon Burger [$10.00] | beef, bacon, grilled panela, sweet jalapeño onion relish, fries
Corazon y Miel's signature burger wasn't much to look at, but the flavors were definitely there. The beef was clearly the hero, coming out immensely juicy and brimming with mouth-watering meaty goodness. I appreciated the masterful application of panela here, and the salty, crunchy bacon worked wonders, too.

Pan con Chompipe [$16.00] | 2 pound salvadoran turkey leg sandwich
The menu's most visually-arresting piece is likely this slow-cooked turkey leg, inspired by Ruiz's grandmother. The meat was literally falling-off-the-bone tender, with a deep, salty, profound savor to it that was expertly balanced by the mounds of crisp, bright veggies piled atop, all while the accompanying roll remained pretty much useless.

Capirotada [$6.00] | mexican bread pudding, ice cream, figs, walnuts, fig syrup
On to the desserts now. Ruiz's version of the traditional capirotada was something to behold, a sweet, sticky, uncompromisingly figgy bread pudding that was all that I'd hoped it would be.

Boca Negra [$6.00] | chocolate cake, chipotle custard, ancho whip
The "black mouth" will appeal to chocolate lovers, the cake coming out dense and rich, with a smart savory component from the use of chilies, all while the blackberries added a tinge of fruity tartness to the mix.

Niños y Buñuelos [$6.00] | fried banana, ice cream, cinnamon sugar, caramel
My favorite of the desserts was this fantastic preparation of fried banana. The banana was beautifully presented, wonderfully fruity, and encased in a crisp, sugary wrapper just loaded with cinnamon-y spice. If that wasn't enough, the vanilla ice cream formed a perfectly cool counter to the banana that took the dish over the top. A must try.

Mexican Fruit Popsicle [$2.00]
We closed with one of CyM's popsicles, this one rendered in coconut. It displayed a very focused, true-to-life sweetness, replete with coconut flakes in the popsicle itself and a fizzy, almost Pop Rocks-esque sensation in the mouth.

Lots of leftovers: the result of attempting the "Fire the Menu" with a team of four not-so-prepared eaters.

Corazon y Miel just might be the most ambitious restaurant to open in Bell in, well, ever. I was quite a fan of how Ruiz was able to take his unmistakably Latin flavors and translate them to a more contemporary aesthetic, sort of melding the types of food he grew up with the of-the-moment style of cooking that's all the rage these days. It's an intriguing, curious take on the cuisine that manages to be fun, yet serious and substantial at the same time. Finally, another reason to make the schlep down to Bell!

Lukshon Restaurant
3239 Helms Ave, Culver City, CA 90034
310.202.6808
www.lukshon.com
Wed 07/10/2013, 08:15p-11:10p

Lukshon Exterior

Since opening at the start of 2011, Sang Yoon's Lukshon has stood as sort of the bastion of modern southeast Asian cooking in LA. I really enjoyed my first meal here, and figured that it was time for a revisit, now that opening chefs Jacob Kear and Johnny Yoo have been replaced by Executive Chef Ted Hopson.

Hopson, for his part, is a graduate of the University of California at Riverside ('03), and attended culinary school at CSCA/Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena. From there, he landed a position at Downtown's longstanding Water Grill, working under David Lefevre. He eventually reached the rank of Executive Sous Chef, but would follow Lefevre out the door in August of 2010. A few months later, Hopson became Exec Chef at Father's Office, then took over at Lukshon as well in June 2011. He is joined in the kitchen by Chef de Cuisine Nathan Macaulay (The Tasting Kitchen), while Laurie Pesce (Wilshire, Cafe del Rey, Wolfgang Puck) remains on as General Manager.

An interesting note: both Hopson and Yoon will be competing in the new season of Top Chef Masters, premiering on July 24th. They'll be joined by LA's very own Neal Fraser, as well Los Angeles magazine's Lesley Suter (who's serving as one of the judges). Oh yeah, and the whole series was filmed in LA too. You can bet I'll be watching.

Lukshon's menu has been tweaked to put more of an emphasis on shareable small plates, though the overall aesthetic remains. On the boozy side of things, Wine Director Marisa Brown has replaced Eduardo Porto Carreiro, though his reasonably-priced, Riesling-centric wine list remains. Cocktails, of course, are worth trying as well, and I can't complain about the beers, either (after all, this is where I discovered the fabulous Hitachino XH). Click for larger versions.

This evening, Lukshon's standard bill of fare was joined by a special dineLA deal, as well as a "Summer of Riesling" tasting menu, featuring Rieslings that would typically not be poured by the glass. In line with the event, we were treated to the riesling sekt gebrüder simon 2011 mosel, germany, as well as the riesling spätlese von hövel "scharzhofberger" 2007 saar, germany.

lukshon sour / yokohama romance / hot & sour gimlet

lukshon sour / yokohama romance / hot & sour gimlet

lukshon sour [$11.00] | old overholt rye, kalamansi, tamarind, lemon
yokohama romance [$11.00] | prunier vsop cognac, cherry heering, kaffir lime, lemongrass, shaoxing wine
hot & sour gimlet [$12.00] | monopolowa vodka, dragon chile, lime, thai basil, kinh gioi
We made sure to work our way down the cocktail list, beginning with this threesome. The Lukshon Sour was a viscous, creamy concoction featuring an appealing mix of sweet and sour that came together in a flavor profile reminiscent of banana. The Yokohama Romance, meanwhile, showed off a complex, boozy weight from the Prunier against a backdrop of dark fruit tartness, while the Hot & Sour Gimlet was all about a fantastic blast of aromatic, herb-y nuances up front leading to a sour-ish close tinged with heat.

hawaiian butterfish [$10.00] | pickled watermelon radish, daikon, nahm jim, rau ram
The meal got off to a strong start with a plate of butterfish. It was an eminently balanced course, with the clean flavors of the fish forming a perfect base on which the bright, multifaceted notes from the nam jim and rau ram could really sing. Lovely textures too between the supple slices of sashimi and the crunchy veggies.

pig ear terrine [$9.00] | edamame, pickles, ma-la vinaigrette
Our next course reminded me a bit of the classic Sichuan specialty fuqi feipian. The terrine arrived cool and gelatinous, with a pork-y relish to it that worked flawlessly with the slight undercurrent of heat in the dish, all while the pickles added a fantastic lightness and crunch to things. Even better? The crisp, salty slivers of fried pig ear tossed in.

tea leaf salad [$11.00] | cabbage, crispy chana dal, marcona almonds, peanuts, sesame, blue prawn
The tea leaf salad was pretty fantastic, the crunchy shards of cabbage forming a base on which to appreciate the counterbalancing blasts of sourness and acid, interjected by a gorgeous nutty crunch and a hit of umami-rich goodness from bits of xia mi. The prawn arrived perfectly cooked as well--buttery, briny, and delicious.

steamed cod [$15.00] | spicy citrus broth, lily flower, tatsoi
Hopson then sent out the cod. I rather liked this one as well, its stark white, soft, springy, moist flesh and mild taste serving as a counterpoint to the spicy, herbaceous, and wonderfully aromatic broth that managed to succinctly capture the essence of the traditional dish.

singapore sling / fujian cure

singapore sling [$13.00] | plymouth gin, cherry heering, benedictine, combier orange, pineapple, bitters
fujian cure [$11.00] | isle of skye 8yr scotch, lemon, galangal, lapsang souchong black tea
More cocktails. The Singapore Sling was a great rendition of the recipe, with a strong pineapple-y character backed by tasty notes of sweetness and herby spice--very drinkable. Meanwhile, the Fujian Cure was even better, with a fantastic, lingering smokiness that just permeates a backbone of saccharine tartness.

cantonese chicken soup [$7.00] | cellophane noodles, petite bok choy, 63° egg
The chicken soup was superb, really capturing the quintessence of Cantonese flavors. The bird itself was spot on, and I loved the crisp, crunchy bok choy here and how the egg just added a marvelous, enveloping richness to things. Lovely tanginess too from the pickled jujubes.

green papaya salad [$9.00] | cherry tomatoes, long beans, peanuts, crispy shallot, nam pla, lime
The som tam was another winner, a texturally wonderful dish that married sweet and sour flavors beautifully, all underscored by the pungency of that fish sauce. Fantastic savoriness from those shallots and peanuts, too.

bhutanese red rice [$9.00] | lamb bacon, maitake mushroom, egg, scallion, chinese celery
The red rice conveyed an intense, heady savoriness on the nose, though on the palate it was much more muted, with a buttery, somewhat nutty character laced with salty bits of bacon, all while the scallion and celery imparted just enough levity to the mix.

maryland soft shell crab [$13.00] | coconut "creamed corn", shishito peppers, pickled okra, spring onion, peanuts
Soft shell crab was surprisingly nice, one of the strongest preparations I've had to date in fact. The crab itself was wondrously crunchy, with a great brine to it along with an unobtrusive shell. The coconut and corn combo formed a sugary component in the dish that worked well with the inherent sweetness in the crustacean, and I loved the fragrant whispers of what I believe was basil in the dish.

formosa / five-spice mai tai

formosa [$11.00] | ethereal gin, lillet blanc, atomized mizhiu tou, ginger pearl onions
five-spice mai tai [$13.00] | rhum j.m. agricole blanc, zafra 21yr rum, plantation '00 rum, five-spice orgeat, lime
Our final round of cocktails began with the Formosa, which displayed very apparent notes of gin over a complex, subtle base of bittersweetness--a stiff one. The Five-Spice Mai Tai, meanwhile, was pretty much the polar opposite, with a fruity blast of tropical, spicy sweetness over a boozy rum backbone.

manila clams [$15.00] | glass noodles, pork belly, cloud ear, hijiki, thai basil
We had here what sort of amounted to a clam pho, and indeed, it was pho-ntastic, with the bright, aromatic flavors really melding well with the inherent goodness of those clams. I also appreciated the slippery, crunchy texture on the wood ear here, and the salty hits from the pork belly just took the dish over the top.

crab fried rice [$12.00] | blue crab, jasmine rice, egg, pea tendrils, serrano chile
The prosaic-sounding crab fried rice was actually maaahvelous, one of the best I've had actually. What struck me here was how forcefully the ocean-y nuances of the crustacean were conveyed, as well as how well-integrated the egg was. At the same time, the pea and serrano were key in providing a modicum of lightness to the course, making for a balanced, cohesive rice dish overall.

green on green [$12.00] | romano beans, english peas, fava beans, haricot verts, spring onion
This whimsically-named dish brought together a quintet of disparate veggies, each one distinct in terms of both taste and texture, but all coming together nicely, integrated by an overarching savoriness and spice.

shishito peppers [$9.00] | maitake mushrooms, house made xo sauce
Shishitos were classic in essence, with light pin pricks of heat augmented by an in-your-face blast of umami goodness from the combo of mushrooms and XO.

beef and broccoli [$28.00] | prime hanger steak, grilled gai lan, black bean ghee, puffed tendon
The kitchen then sent out the night's pièce de résistance, the priciest, biggest, and perhaps most amusingly-named item on the menu. The hanger itself was spot on: just teeming with beefy goodness and surprisingly tender to boot. I thoroughly enjoyed it alone, but the pungency of the black bean made sense too, though you had to be careful with it, lest the ghee overwhelm the natural beauty of the meat. Even more key was the use of kai lan, which imparted a well-placed crunch and bitterness to things.

With the cocktails dispensed with, we opted for beer next, specifically the flander's ale. bockor bellegems bruin. belgium [$9]. It was a pretty prototypical example of oud bruin, so think funky and tart, with an almost wine-like quality to it. Quite nice.

chiang mai curry noodles [$7.00] | chile, turmeric, lemongrass, chicken, yu choy, rice noodles
Here, we were presented with classic khao soi-esque flavors, resulting in a comfy, familiar curry experience, with the chicken and the veggies in perfect harmony. Lovely textures on this one, too.

grilled squid salad | chile sambal vinaigrette, cucumbers, chinese celery, mint
The squid salad was something off of the special Riesling menu, and showed off some really bright, bitter, minty flavors, all underscored by the zing of that sambal. As such, the squid, surprisingly, wasn't really the star of the show, becoming more of a textural component to pair with the various greenery.

chinese black mushrooms [$10.00] | maitake, woodear, shitake, mustard greens, lap cheong
The medley of 'shrooms was a veritable umami bomb, blending together the earthy, heady savor of the various fungi and commingling it with the sausage-y savor of lap cheong, all while the mustard tried in vain to rein things in.

dandan noodles [$7.00] | kurobuta pork, sesame, preserved mustard greens, sichuan peppercorns, peanuts
Dandanmian was just as good as I remembered (albeit slightly more subdued), a blast of spicy, mouth-numbing flavors that go along oh-so well with the mustards greens and peanuts.

Up until this point, Lukshon had never had a dessert menu, operating on the principle that, in Asian restaurants, dessert is often included for free. However, opening Pastry Chef John Park (XIV under Jordan Kahn, Providence, Water Grill) left recently to open Quenelle ice cream shop in Burbank. He's been replaced by Jessica Perez, and the restaurant has used this changing of the guard as an opportunity to install its first dessert menu. Click for larger versions.

With the oud bruin all drunk up, we went for something even more sour, the gueuze. girardin 1882. belgium [$18]. It was a classic interpretation of the style, a torrent of lactic, tart, acidic flavors that finished utterly crisp and dry.

chicory chocolate cake [$7.00] | sesame brittle, thai chili caramel, chocolate pudding, sesame ice cream
Dessert started strong with this sort of awesome chicory cake. The cake itself displayed a restrained sweetness with a bitter tinge, and went beautifully with the savory, spicy, nutty notes in the caramel and ice cream. I was particularly a fan of the sesame brittle, which I would've easily demolished on its own.

p.y.p.

p.y.p. [$7.00] | compressed peaches, frozen beijing yogurt, ginger streusel, passion fruit, pop rocks
I can only assume that this dessert was a nod to MJ's P.Y.T. It was pretty indeed though, with the sweet, juicy fruit pairing perfectly with the buttery, spicy combo of streusel and yogurt. Superbly well balanced, with a bit of whimsy from those pop rocks.

barley pudding [$7.00] | coffee streusel, caramelized banana, mandarin banana sorbet, puffed barley
The barley pudding was yet another winner. I loved the banana sweetness here, and how that played off the bitterness of the coffee so succinctly, all while the barley tempered the interaction while adding a delightful crunch to boot.

palm sugar brownies / lychee pâtes de fruits

palm sugar brownies / lychee pâtes de fruits

Mignardises comprised some mouth-watering palm sugar brownies and lychee pâtes de fruits. Even better were "Drumsticks" of coffee ice cream, chocolate glaze, and toasted coconut.

It's been too long. I really was quite happy with this dinner. The kitchen's interpretation of Southeast Asian cookery remains true to its essence--bold, lusty, not shy about flavor--but at the same time, there's an uncommon emphasis on precision, finesse, modernity here. Add to that a more focused, more manageable menu, and a fantastic selection of desserts, and it seems to me that, with Hopson now firmly at the helm, Lukshon's going stronger than ever.

A couple weeks before this meal, I paid a visit to Lukshon to attend a special lunch put on by the Hong Kong Tourism Board featuring three well-regarded Hong Kong chefs. The event was aimed to promote "Hong Kong Live at The Grove," a three-day series of performances, exhibits, music, classes, and of course, food. Now, I normally don't do these types of things, but I made an exception this time around due to my curiosity about top-level Chinese cooking. It's an area that I don't know much about, but would love to experience more from.

Lukshon Kitchen

Here we see Lukshon's gleaming, open kitchen shortly before the start of the luncheon. An interesting note: despite all the high-end, high-tech cooking tools available here, I was told that the Chinese chefs tended to prefer to do things old school, eschewing the deep fryer for the wok, as an example.

Chef Introductions

Sang Yoon introducing the three visiting chefs.

Hong Kong Tourism Board VIP Pop Up Media Luncheon Menu

Our five course menu with wine pairing, signed, natch. Click for a larger version.

1: Sichuan Lamb Tartare | pickled Fresno chilies, prickly ash, cumin and puffed black rice [Sang Yoon, Lukshon]
NV Delamotte Brut Le Mesnil
Serving as a sort of amuse bouche, the tartar was pretty stupendous, with the supple, snappy dices of lamb melding beautifully with the multifaceted notes of spice in the dish. Really well integrated and balanced, with a fantastic textural component from the puffed rice. A promising start to the meal.

2: Dim Sum Platter | shrimp dumpling, abalone tart, baked bun with BBQ pork, spring roll [Kwai-pui Mak, Tim Ho Wan]
2008 Knebel qba Riesling Trocken
Up next was former Lung King Heen chef Mak Kwai-Pui (a.k.a. Pui-Gor) of the famed dim sum eatery Tim Ho Wan, widely known as the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world. Going from right to left, I started with the baoyu ta, which showed off the sweetness of the abalone against the backdrop of sugary, crumbly pastry. Next was the har gow, a commendable presentation of the dim sum classic, with the essence of the shrimp proudly conveyed amidst its delicate wrapper. The chunjuan was also on point, with a wonderfully thin, crispy exterior hiding a delicious filling combining the earthiness of mushroom with the sweetness of what I believe was crab. I ended with the restaurant's famed cha siu bao, and it did not let me down. What struck me about it was the texture, how it was so crumbly, so light, as well as the perfectly balanced filling, which blended the savoriness of pork with a great saccharine note.

3: Sole Filet | with asparagus in black bean sauce [Mango Tsang, Ming Court]
2011 Sella "Majoli" Rosato
Following, we were presented a course from Executive Chef "Mango" Tsang Chiu-Lit of the two-star Ming Court at the Langham Place hotel. Even though Tsang scrapped his initial plans to steam the sole (instead of frying it), I quite enjoyed the results, finding the fish delightfully crisp on the outside, yet delicate on the inside, with a mild relish that paired beautifully with the black bean. Lovely counterpoint from the vegetables, too. Yes, I can-a have-a de Mango.

4: Hong Kong Style Braised Beef | with Chef Cheng's signature fried rice [Kam-fu Cheng, Celebrity Cuisine]
2009 Francois Cazin Cour-Cheverney Romorantin
Hailing from the two-star Celebrity Cuisine was Cheng Kam-Fu, who's known for his classic Cantonese stylings. Braised beef was just as you'd expect: almost falling-apart tender, with a good depth and richness to it, along with a subtle undercurrent of spice. The fried rice served as a fitting accompaniment, not too greasy, not too soft, with a classic flavor profile thanks to the egg, shrimp, and ham (Jinhua I believe) folded in.

5: Barley Cream | coffee streusel, aprium, cherry, banana sorbet [Sang Yoon]
NV Philippe Bornard "Tant-Mieux"
Dessert, finally, didn't disappoint either. It was a smart, modern presentation, the barley cream forming a base on which the interplay between the coffee and fruit flavors could really sing, with the banana notes creeping in and out. Very cool.

A Toast

A toast, thanks, and gift giving from HKTB's Executive Director Anthony Lau.

One of the nicest, and most useful swag bags I've encountered. I know I've been saying it for years, but I really do need to get my ass over to Hong Kong sometime.

Mori Sushi
11500 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064
310.479.3939
www.morisushi.net
Sat 07/13/2013, 08:00p-10:20p

Since debuting in 2000, Morihiro Onodera's eponymous restaurant has firmly established itself as one of the premier sushi spots in the Southland, second or third behind the epicness that is Urasawa. My last visit back in 2011 was spot on, really great, and, coincidentally, occurred right before Mori-san sold the place to his second-in-command, one Masanori Nagano. Now, Nagano had been a chef here from almost the very beginning, so I'm sure that the restaurant was left in good hands. Two years into this new ownership regime, a revisit made sense.

To drink, I started off with the Allagash White [$7.50], a refreshingly crisp, spicy witbier that paired quite well with the food.

Tofu

1: Tofu
As before, things commenced with a block of homemade tofu, topped with a dollop of freshly-grated wasabi and accompanied by a thimble of shoyu. The tofu, unsurprisingly, tended toward mild, with the soft, silken curd playing off of the dark flavors of the soy sauce, all while the wasabi added a crucial accent to the dish.

Edamame

2a: Edamame
Next was a long plate holding five little bites (the zensai). I worked my way right to left, and first up was the edamame, a "special" preparation that was exactly what I wanted, with the soy beans melding with the tangy strands of miyoga in laudable fashion.

2b: Tomato to Okura
A singular tomato (from the Santa Monica Farmers Market) set in a vinegar-y sauce, meanwhile, was superb: utterly juicy and sweet, but with a bit of tartness, as well as a texture that was quite unlike anything I'd experienced before. The okra was similarly on point, subdued and almost dainty, restrained in its mucilaginous qualities.

Awabi

2c: Awabi
Abalone arrived satisfyingly chewy, with a great bite to it and an umami-laced brine that was augmented by the earthiness of the gastropod's liver.

2d: Ichijiku
Figs were also excellent, their sweetness commingling beautifully with the nuttiness of the accompanying black sesame condiment.

2e: Mehikari
We ended with my favorite item of the quintet, a fried preparation of a deep sea fish known as "round greeneyes." It was fantastic, a symphony of disparate textures (as the mehikari was eaten whole, soft bones and all) joined by a delicate, yet completely satisfying ocean-y relish.

Sazae

3: Sazae
This impressive looking specimen is known as the horned turban, or turban shell. It was cooked tsuboyaki style, and topped with a quail egg. The resulting dish was quite something, the flesh of the sea snail coming out firm, snappy, and satisfying, with a delightfully subtle bitterness to it, all moderated by the lushness of that egg. When we were all done with the meat, we eagerly supped down the remaining "liqueur," all briny and umami-laden, from the shell.

4: Ayu no Shioyaki
Sweetfish from Japan was grilled simply in the shioyaki manner. As the name would imply, its soft, delicate flesh conveyed a certain sweetness to it, one that melded seamlessly with the salty, savory notes and bitter char nuances present. Note, too, the wavy shape formed by the fish, a traditional flourish meant to evoke the act of swimming. Yum.

5: Tai no Kobujime
Wild Japanese snapper came out kobujime style, which means that the fish was treated with kelp. Indeed, the essence of the kombu was very apparent initially, but then gave way to the lingering heat of wasabi over an austere, complex base of tai.

Hotate

6: Hotate
Hokkaido scallop was pure and sweet, with a bit of wasabi spice at the beginning along with a fantastic ocean-y taste on the close.

7: Hiramasa
Yellowtail kingfish from Japan was a summertime treat, firm with a bit of bite and a delicate, slightly sweet taste that played off the 'sabi commendably.

8: Kuromaguro
The first of three tunas was a wild blue fin varietal that was delightfully melty on the palate, with a focused flavor that was duly enhanced by the murasaki drizzled on top.

Mebachi

9: Mebachi
Big eye tuna came from Ecuador, and was even silkier in consistency, with a lighter, livelier taste to it vis-à-vis the preceding cut.

10: Kuromaguro Chutoro
Bluefin toro was of the "medium-plus" type, and was indeed wonderfully fatty, creamy almost, and verging on melt-in-your-mouth.

Kamasu

11: Kamasu
The kamasu (oft described as "barracuda") was fantastic, with a pretty profound richness and depth to it that was joined by a delightful smoky component.

Kohada

12: Kohada
Gizzard shad was beautifully presented, its silvery skin glistening. It was cured in vinegar, as is typically done with the fish, and was firm to the bite, with a strong, assertive salinity to it that paired well with the tangy notes present.

With the beer gone, we went with a bottle of sake, specifically the Koshino Kanbai Muku Junmai [$87], brewed by Ishimoto Shuzo out of Niigata. The "Pure Realm" came recommended by our server, and he didn't lead us astray. Think a base of rice-y goodness, very balanced, with an omnipresent, yet restrained fruity sweetness and just a touch of boozy heat toward the end.

Iwashi

13: Iwashi
It was great to see sardine presented, the fish coming out wonderfully slick on the tongue, with a focused brine to it that mixed beautifully with the bright combo of ginger and scallion.

14: Aori Ika
Japanese bigfin reef squid was creamy and sticky, with a very subtle taste to it that was nicely complemented by the soy sauce.

Mirugai

15: Mirugai
Crisp, crunchy geoduck came with a sprinkle of salt and a splash of yuzu, perfect accoutrements to the clam's inherent sea-like savor.

Ikura

16: Ikura
Salmon roe was marinated in a soy-based broth, which did a great job augmenting the natural salinity of the eggs. These had a lovely "pop" to them as well, and the nori wrapper was great in tempering the strong flavors at play.

17: Karei Engawa
Now, as we all know by now, engawa usually refers to the chewy fin muscle of halibut. However, in this case, we had the fin of Japanese flounder, or karei. To me, this one was all about texture. I found it even crisper, even more tendinous than halibut fin, with a very subtle flavor.

18: Kinmedai
Golden eye snapper from Japan was delicious, with a fantastic char-like bitterness to it that made for an eminently balanced bite.

19: Santa Barbara Uni
Mori is somewhat known for its presentation of two types of uni back-to-back. In this corner we had the Santa Barbara variety, which was cool and creamy, though not as sweet as I was expecting. Quite nice, especially when taken with the seaweed.

20: Hokkaido Uni
The Hokkaido version was sharper, with a more focused brine and a steelier consistency. I'd actually have to give it the victory on this night, a reversal from the decision last time.

Anago

21: Anago
The Japanese sea eel was quite unlike any other I've had. It was literally falling-apart tender, with a marked sweetness to it that transitioned to a more ocean-y character on the close.

Tamago

22a: Tamago
The appearance of tamagoyaki almost always signifies the end of a sushi meal, and tonight we were presented two varieties. The first was the more traditional preparation, arriving cool, sweet and eggy, with a firm, juicy, somewhat dense texture.

Tamago

22b: Tamago
The second was Urasawa-esque, almost cake-like and made using shrimp purée. It had a more multifaceted taste to it, with less sugariness and more salinity.

23a: Tofu Blancmange
Our first of two desserts was a blanc-manger, which perfectly blended the essence of tofu with a wonderful sweetness, all balanced by a sort of overarching piquancy.

23b: Shoyu Aisukurimu
The soy sauce ice cream, meanwhile, was something else, and by something else, I mean all sorts of awesome. There was a chocolate-y sweetness at first here, but the crux was the whisper of shoyu savor that really underscored the dish. Could this be the new salted caramel?

Yoshiyuki Inoue, Masanori Nagano, Taketoshi Azumi

Yoshiyuki Inoue, Masanori Nagano, Taketoshi Azumi

Chef/Owner Masanori "Maru" Nagano in the middle, flanked by Yoshiyuki "Yoshi" Inoue (who made the desserts) and Taketoshi "Take" Azumi (our capable itamae for the evening).

I'm very happy (and relieved) to report that Mori's going as strong as ever under Nagano's leadership. The meal tonight was near-flawless, and the new owner's doing a great job executing Mori-san's original vision here, turning out top notch traditionalist sushi and some stellar cooked dishes to boot. If that wasn't enough, Maru-san seems to have instilled a bit more fun into the demeanor of the chefs here, whom I found lighthearted, easy to deal with, and not afraid to crack a joke. For all you sushi fiends out there, this place still needs to be on your bucket list.

[UPDATE 2013-07-25: Out of the 51 entries received, only 34 were valid. Stella M. Lee, GRACE, Anonymous{Amy}, Catherine Hsu, Nerissa N, and Anonymous{randy b}, you all submitted after the deadline unfortunately. Meanwhile, Tam Truong, 1000steps, Hillary Hon, Leah Newman, asdfqwerty, DonutLee, jonathans, and Rachel Marks didn't include an email address. A shame really, as there were some promising comments there. Also, Jonathan Lee submitted a verbatim copy of what Ada Li wrote, so I'm not sure what was going with him. In the end though, there were some great submissions this year, and it was a tough choice, but the final winner I have to say is Jane. For the rest of you however, all is not lost. Since there were a number of strong entries, I'm working on seeing if I can get a discount code for the "runners-up." I will be contacting you separately, so be on the lookout. Thanks for playing!]

On the evening of Saturday, August 3th, Project by Project (Facebook, Twitter) will be hosting its 11th annual tasting benefit: Plate by Plate. Project by Project is a national 501(c)3 non-profit centered around issues relating to the Asian-American community. Each year, the group chooses a particular theme to focus on (whether it be health, education, or the arts), and partners with a charitable organization in that space. This year's partner is East West Players, the country's premier Asian-American theater troupe.

As always, the upscale event will showcase the gastronomic talents of some of LA's top restaurants, as well as alcoholic and non-alcoholic libations from a variety of leading purveyors. VIP attendees will also be treated to a cocktail competition judged by Matt Biancaniello and Devon Espinosa and featuring contestants Deysi Alvarez (Paiche, Mo-Chica, Picca, Fraiche, Rivera), Dino Balocchi (Littlefork, Longman & Eagle in Chicago), and Brittini Rae Peterson (Goldie's, Ink, The Tar Pit, Fig & Olive, Soho House).

The benefit will be held at the beautiful Vibiana cathedral in Downtown, future home of Neal Fraser and Bill Chait's long-awaited Redbird. Be sure to check out my report from last year's event.

.EATS(31).

Lexington Social House

.VIP(3).

.SWEETS(2).

.DRINKS(18).

Tickets are currently on sale at $150 for general admission. However, I'm giving away two VIP tickets (giving you access to the preview hour, cocktail competition, VIP lounge and bar), valued at $250 each. To win, just leave a comment with your name, email, and a brief blurb about what you're looking forward to most about the event (the food, the open bar, the women, the men?), and why. Please submit entries by noon PDT, July 24th. I'll select the best entry and announce the winner Thursday. Good luck!

Badmaash Restaurant
108 W 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.221.7466
www.badmaashla.com
Mon 07/22/2013, 09:30p-11:20p

Badmaash Exterior

I'm beginning to get sick of the whole gastropub thing by this point, but one that's caught my attention in recent times in Badmaash ("naughty" or "badass" in Hindi, roughly) in Downtown. Set inside the former site of The Charcoal Grill, the DEX Studio-designed restaurant opened on May 13th and is helmed by Executive Chef Pawan Mahendro, along with his two sons Nakul and Arjun. The goal here is to present a sort of Indian gastropub, churning out Indian-inflected cuisine as seen through a casual, cliché-busting, "kids of immigrants" type of lens.

About the Chef: Born to a food-centric family in the Punjabi city of Amritsar, Mahendro was trained in classic cuisine at Mumbai's Institute of Hotel Management, Catering Technology and Applied Nutrition. After graduating in 1977, he secured a job at the Taj Mahal Intercontinental, then moved to the Centaur Hotel. In 1978, he formed a business running a corporate cafeteria in Mumbai, then came to Canada in 1982 to train at the Holiday Inn. Mahendro decided to stay, and went on to work at several restaurants in Toronto, including the well-regarded Daily Planet. In 1995, he opened a French restaurant in New York's Rockland County, then traveled the world as a restaurant consultant before returning to Toronto. He served as Corporate Executive Chef at events company ByPeterandPauls.com before starting Jaipur Grille in October of 2002, which was widely lauded for its refreshing take on traditional Indian cuisine. Following the Chef's retirement, the family moved to Southern California in 2010, and by July 2011, had severed ties with the restaurant. Nakul and Arjun convinced their father to come out of hibernation, however, to help them realize their vision for a neo-Indian eatery, and Badmaash is the result of that collaboration.

Badmaash's menu may be the first I've seen with hash tags, a nod to the influence that social media has on food these days. It features a good number of Indian classics, but also some more fusion-y, gastropub-y dishes as well. We also sampled items off of the special dineLA menu that was being offered this evening. To drink, think a smattering of surprisingly-interesting beers (almost always a good decision when it comes to Indian), as well as a handful of wines as well. Click for larger versions.

Speaking of wine, we opted for the Malbec The Show 2012, Mendoza, Argentina [$30]. I'm not sure if I've ever had Malbec with Indian before, and I'm not really yearning to have it again. The wine was fairly typical for the varietal, spicy and jammy, with a certain earthiness to it. There wasn't anything wrong, I'm just not sure it paired all that well with the food. Maybe a Kingfisher would've been a better idea after all.

2-Bite Fish Fray (machhi amritsari) [$8.00] | daily select fish golden brown in chickpea batter with carom seed, dried mango dust
We began with the restaurant's take on macchi amritsari, basically fried fish fritters. They were well-spiced, with a nice crunch on the crust, though the fish itself tended toward the dry side. I did appreciate the levity imparted by the herbs here, though.

Homemade Punjabi Samosas [$8.00] | short rib with pineapple and cilantro
Samosas were quite good, and were the first ones I've had to feature beef. The meat was hearty and satisfying, and went surprisingly well with the slight sweetness imparted by the pineapple. Lovely texture on the pastry here, too.

Chicken Wings a la Badmaash | #fuckingawesome; chickpea dusted and flash fried to a crisp, with homemade 5-pepper and tamarind glaze
The wings weren't necessarily as awesome as their hashtag would imply, but they were tasty nonetheless: nicely crisp, with an appealing combination of sweet and spicy flavors. I wouldn't mind a bucket of these.

Tomato & Watermelon Gazpacho | garnished with masala shrimp - plum tomato, fresh watermelon, red and green sweet peppers, red onion, serrano chili, cilantro
Serving as a sort of intermezzo in the dineLA menu, the gazpacho arrived tasting much like a salsa, a blend of cool, subtly spicy flavors underscored by a trace of watermelon-y sweetness. The shrimp actually worked out quite well here, adding a bit of textural interest to the pseudo-course.

Chicken Tikka Poutine [$12.00] | crisp masala fries topped with chicken tikka and cheese curds, doused in brown gravy
The poutine was unquestionably the star of the show this evening, and quite possibly the best poutine I've had (the owners' Canadianess showing through I suppose). The combo of the masala fries with the gravy and curds was spot on, and if that wasn't enough, the chicken was beautifully cooked--coming out tender, flavorful, juicy, and with a slight char bitterness--the perfect topping to the dish. An absolute must try.

Chili Cheese Naan [$6.00] | tandoori naan stuffed with hot chilies and aged american cheddar - with yogurt raita
Cooked in the traditional tandoor, the chili cheese naan functioned as your basic preparation of the bread, but with a subtle incorporation of the headlining ingredients that made it much more interesting. Very nice when taken with the raita.

Spiced Lamb Burger [$13.00] | ground and spiced in house - with spiced mayo, onion, lettuce, tomato on brioche bun
Another item that should be on your short list here is certainly the lamburger. The meat arrived properly rare, with a great Indian-inspired spice to it that should make it palatable even to you lamb haters out there (and I know there are a lot of you). It went swimmingly with the cilantro, various veggies, spiced mayo, and even with the sweetness in the brioche, making for a deft marriage of disparate culinary traditions.

Ghost Chili Lamb Vindaloo [$14.00] | lamb and potato braised in a spicy curry of bhoot jolokia and other chilies
The classic vindaloo was done up here with the much bandied about Bhut Jolokia. The dish was spicy, but not ridiculously so, the heat arriving on the palate fast and focused, with a particular quality to it that worked wonders with the sweet, almost tart flavors in the dish--a smart accent to the lamb. I will point out that the potatoes here were undercooked, resulting in a sort of firm, crunchy texture, but I actually enjoyed it against the near falling-apart tenderness of the meat.

Cheese Dumplings in Sweet Cream (ras malai) | traditional indian dessert - fresh paneer cheese dumplings soaked in sweet cream and whole milk, with rose and salted pistachio
Time for the sugary stuff. Chef Pav's version of ras malai (my favorite Indian dessert) was on point: cool and creamy, with a floral, sweet spice that really hit the spot.

Alphonso Mango Mousse | light and airy; fresh mango mousse that has had the aunty-ji's singing Chef Pav's name for years
The Alphonso mousse was sweet and tart, showing off a focused blast of fruity mango goodness accented by those blueberries.

Peddler's Creamery Daily Selection [$5.00] | local DTLA icecreamery! made with organic, fair-trade, local exotic ingredients... BICYCLE CHURNED IN SMALL BATCHES!!!!
Tonight ice cream selection from local producer Peddler's Creamery was a fantastic cardamom-cocoa nib variety. The spicy, aromatic nuances of the cardamom were on proud display, a perfect accompaniment to the smooth, sweet ice cream, all while the nibs added a touch of crunch and bitterness to the fray.

Chai Tea

We closed with a wonderful preparation of warm cutting chai, a beautiful blend of sweet, spicy flavors that might've been the best chai I've ever had. I appreciated the brightly-colored wire holder here, reminiscent of the ones used at roadside stands in India.

I wasn't quite sure what to expect coming in here, but overall I was pretty happy with the experience. Barring a couple quibbles, the food was on point, sort of blending traditional Indian flavors with a fun, casual, youthful swagger befitting Badmaash's environs. I applaud the Mahendros for doing something different with the genre, and am curious to sample more of the menu and see where this all goes.

Mari Vanna Restaurant
8475 Melrose Pl, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.655.1977
www.marivanna.ru/la
Fri 07/26/2013, 08:30p-11:55p

Mari Vanna Exterior

We all wept (or rejoiced, conversely) when the sixth iteration of Joe Pytka's Bastide closed its doors in May 2011. With that chapter of 8475 Melrose's story sealed, we were left wondering about who would take over this seemingly cursed spot. Well, we didn't have to wait long until it was announced that Russian hospitality group Ginza Project was opening up an outpost of their Mari Vanna chainlet here. Co-Owner Tatiana Brunetti originally wanted to launch the place in May 2012, but the restaurant blew way past its projected opening and debuted just this June.

Mari Vanna Patio

The old Bastide space has been thoroughly revamped, but fortunately the patio remains.

Mari Vanna Bar/Lounge

A former dining room has been cleared to make way for a cute little bar/lounge area, which the old Bastide never had.

Mari Sunroom/Karaoke Lounge

We also have a covered "sunroom," which is adjacent the old kitchen table, now converted to a wine room-cum-karaoke lounge(!).

Mari Vanna Fireplace Room

And of course, we have the main dining room, replete with fireplace, meant to recall an archetypal, rustic Russian residence filled with trinkets, figurines, and other such Russian-y things.

Mari Vanna's menu features all your favorite old-school Russian classics, executed with precision. There's also a family-style tasting menu option called the Russian Table (call ahead for this), and be sure to check out the rotating list of chef's specials as well. Click for larger versions.

To drink, vodka, unsurprisingly, is the star of the show here. Mari Vanna features a reported 70 different bottles of the stuff, and also infuses its own vodkas in house. The resulting liquors are then used in the restaurant's vodka-centric cocktail list, and also served neat. Click for larger versions.

Bread

Bread is a key part of the Russian table, and here, a black variety was presented with sea salt, sunflower oil, chopped radishes, and green onion. The rye tended toward full-flavored, hearty, and I especially appreciated the intensity of the salt here, as well as the lightness and crunch of those radishes.

Olivier Salad [$12.00] | Mélange of Roasted Vegetables, Pickles, Hard Boiled Eggs and a Touch of Mayonnaise
Regular readers may know that I'm quite the fan of potato salad, the this high-class version was surely one of the best I've had. Think utterly balanced, with a great interplay between contrasting notes of egg, vegetable, and hammy savor, all augmented by a bit of spiciness toward the close.

Herring under a Fur Coat (Shuba) [$10.00] | Layers of herring, Potatoes, Carrots, Beets and Onions topped with Egg with a touch of mayonnaise
Here before us was a plate of dressed herring, or shuba (the Russian word for jacket). I don't think I've had anything quite like it, but the dish worked. The sheer fishiness of the herring was apparent, especially upon first taste, but its various accompaniments really moderated its potency, providing a blanket of cool, mild sweetness that really integrated the dish.

Chicken Kholodetz [$12.00] | Chicken Aspic served with Horseradish, pickles and spicy Russian mustard
The kholodets was probably the most challenging course of the evening. The chicken itself was quite tasty, with a really appealing spice to it, but the aspic-to-meat ratio seemed off. There was just too much jelly, which didn't have much flavor on its own, and sort of overwhelmed the bird. Fortunately, the fantastically spicy mustard here did help bring things together, adding a sharp, potent jab of heat to the dish.

Fish plate [$19.00] | House cured Salmon, Cold Smoked Paddlefish and House Smoked Sturgeon
Next, we moved on to some housemade platters, the first featuring three types of fish. Salmon was on point: slick, fatty, and very nice with a touch of lemon-y tang. The paddlefish, meanwhile, was soft, almost pillow-y, with a lovely, forceful saltiness to it. However, the most fascinating item here was clearly the sturgeon, which I found firm and even a bit crunchy, with a growing, lingering brine.

Homemade Assorted Meat plate [$19.00] | Roasted Pork Loin, Chicken Roulette and Beef Filet
"Charcuterie" was also made in house. The pork was fairly benign, a bit salty here and there, but not particularly interesting. My favorite was actually the chicken roulade--cool and supple, with a wonderful hit of pepperiness. Lastly, we had the beef, which was flaky, appropriately dry, and somewhat reminiscent of the Chinese cold cuts one sometimes finds on banquet menus.

Rosolnik Soup [$11.00] | Chicken Barley soup with Potatoes, Onions, Carrots, pickles, Garnished with fresh dill, sour cream on the side
The rassolnik soup was delicious: hearty and home-y, with a satisfying savoriness from the chicken-root veggie combo that was deftly offset by the slight tang of those pickles. Sour cream was optional, but added an additional point of the interest to the potage.

Sunny - Seaberry Martini / Klubnichka - Strawberry Martini / Grusha - Pear Martini

Sunny - Seaberry Martini / Klubnichka - Strawberry Martini / Grusha - Pear Martini

Sunny - Seaberry Martini [$12.00] | House infused Seaberry Vodka, St. Germain Elder Flower, Fresh Lime Juice, Fresh Orange Juice
Klubnichka - Strawberry Martini [$12.00] | House infused Strawberry Vodka, Strawberry Puree, Fragoli, Fresh Lime Juice
Grusha - Pear Martini [$12.00] | House infused Pear Vodka, St. Germain Elder Flower, Pear Puree, Fresh Lime Juice, Splash of Sparkling Wine
Our first troika of cocktails began with the Sunny - Seaberry Martini. The astringency of the sea-buckthorn was expertly countered here, resulting in a pleasant citrus-y disposition with a hint of booziness. The Klubnichka - Strawberry Martini, on the other hand, had no traces of alcohol at all, instead coming out thick and sweet, with a very pure, unbridled strawberry essence. The Grusha - Pear Martini, finally, was even more viscous, with the brightness of the pear really coming through in the drink--not particularly complex, but delicious nonetheless.

Roasted Cornish Hen [$12.00] | Topped with garlic and served with pickled cabbage
The tsyplionok tabaka was another highlight of the meal. It was basically a perfectly roasted, spatchcocked Cornish game hen (a small chicken), simply seasoned but superb, and arriving at the table tender and succulent, with a great depth of flavor. At the same time, the pickles worked here in providing a bit of balance against the heft of that bird.

Handmade Veal Pelmeni - Russian Dumplings [$16.00] | Topped with Herbs, Butter and served with Sour Cream
The pelmeni were actually sent out by mistake, but we didn't complain when they told us to just keep them at the table. I found the dumplings very straightforward, with an agreeable savoriness from the veal stuffing to go against the herb-y overtones in the dish. Pretty simple, humble, and even a bit Chinese-y in essence.

Blini With Red Caviar 50 grams [$29.00]
Seeing as how we were in a Russkiy restoran, we felt compelled to order at least one form of fish roe. The red caviar here was markedly different from the ikura one typically finds. Instead, it reminded me of the sujiko that I'd had at Shibucho, being much saltier, much more in-your-face. I actually quite liked it, especially when taken with a dab of smetana and a shard of crêpe-like blini.

Ukrainian Borscht with Pompushka [$12.00]
The borshch, of course, was something that we just had to try given where we were. I quite liked the soup despite the preponderance of beets, finding it hearty and comforting, with its savory broth pairing swimmingly with a mix of root vegetables and a whisper of pepper. Even better, though, was the potage's traditional accompaniment of pampushky, baked little spheres of garlicky goodness.

House Infused Vodkas: Apricot, Seaberry (Oblepiha), Lingberry, Pineapple, Olives, Pepper

House Infused Vodkas: Apricot, Seaberry (Oblepiha), Lingberry, Pineapple, Olives, Pepper

At this point, our server brought out complementary shots of Mari Vanna's much bandied about house-infused vodka, in the following flavors:

Apricot - My favorite of the bunch, with a very true-to-life apricot sweetness paired with a slightly herbaceous tinge.
Seaberry (Oblepiha) - Tart and astringent, with an interesting savoriness to it.
Lingberry - Also known as lingonberry (the IKEA staple), this was super, super sour, puckeringly so in fact.
Pineapple - The pineapple, meanwhile, had an almost candied sweetness to it backed by copious amount of booziness.
Olives - This one was akin to alcoholic olive juice, basically an olive hater's worst nightmare.
Pepper - Quite tasty, with bright, peppery nuances leading to a growing, creeping burn on the close.

Kalinka - Malinka Martini / Moscow Mojito / Lolita Apricot - Martini

Kalinka - Malinka Martini [$12.00] | House infused Raspberry Vodka, White Peach Puree, Fresh Lime Juice, Fresh Raspberries
Moscow Mojito [$14.00] | House infused Honey and Oats Vodka, Mint, Fresh Lime Juice, Aged Dark Rum, Splash of Sprite
Lolita Apricot - Martini [$12.00] | House infused Apricot Vodka, Vanilla Black Tea Syrup and Fresh Lemon Juice
Time for more cocktails (as if we needed more after the shots). The Kalinka - Malinka Martini came out utterly fruity (and thick), with a berry fruit laden intensity that was easy to like. Our only non-martini drink was the Moscow Mojito, which was pretty similar to the standard variation, but with a more pronounced booziness to it along with the requisite mint and citrus notes. Finally, we had the Lolita Apricot - Martini, my favorite of the threesome with its soft, balanced vanilla and coconut-y flavors.

Beef Stroganoff [$27.00] | Thinly Sliced Filet Mignon in a light sour cream sauce, fresh Thyme, Pickles and Potato Puree
Mari Vanna's befstroganov is the restaurant's unofficial signature dish, and it did not disappoint. The earthiness of the mushrooms here paired perfectly with the sour cream in setting the stage for the beef to shine, while the thyme served as a great accent piece. I appreciated the countering crunch of the pickles as well, and loved the mashed potatoes here, which was fantastically smooth and buttery (even Robuchon would be proud).

Chicken Kotletki [$19.00] | Pan Seared Chicken patties Served with potato puree
The kotletki were sort of like mini hamburger patties. Or, think of them as the best chicken nuggets you've had: utterly juicy, and pretty profound in the flavor department too. I thoroughly enjoyed 'em alone, but the creamy potatoes here definitely made sense as an accoutrement.

Assorted Pirozjki - Beef, Cabbage, or Rice, Egg and Scallion [$3.00/each]
We ended the savory portion of our meal with a basket of pirozhki, basically bite-size stuffed buns that are not to be confused for pierogi. They come in three varieties at Mari Vanna, all distinguished by their shape. The beef preparation was quite nice, the filling almost stroganoff-esque in nature, with a certain tanginess to it. Cabbage, meanwhile, was more austere, unsurprisingly, while my favorite was the egg and scallion variant. Tasty overall, but a little on the dry side.

Birds Milk [$12.00] | Traditional Russian Dessert, very light sponge cake covered in melted dark chocolate
Both desserts from the specials menu were sent out on the house, presumably because of some of the long waits we endured in between courses. Our first was a cake-ified version of ptichye moloko candy, which I really enjoyed. The cake itself I found light, pleasantly sweet, and nutty and nougat-y on the palate, a great foil to the rich, slightly smoky chocolate drizzled on top.

Medovik

Medovik [$12.00] | Traditional Russian Honey Cake
The medovik was similarly delicious, a blast of viscous, honeyed sweetness that was beautifully tempered by the layers of cake. I seriously want to bring a whole one of these to my next birthday party.

House Infused Vodka: Pear

Finally, we enjoyed complementary shots of pear-infused vodka, a fitting, fruity conclusion to the evening.

I'd never really experienced Russian cuisine prior to this dinner, so I don't really have a sound basis for judgment here, but I can say that I quite enjoyed the meal. The food was hearty, full-flavored, straightforward in essence but somehow still very interesting at the same time, with a trace of refinement on the edge of rusticity. I think there's probably a lot of misconceptions or simply lack of awareness concerning Russian cookery around these parts, so I think a meal here could definitely help change some of our perceptions; it certainly did for me.

Saam at The Bazaar (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

Atelier Crenn (San Francisco, CA) [2]

Benu (San Francisco, CA) [2]

Go's Mart (Canoga Park, CA) [2]

Salt Air (Los Angeles, CA)

EMC Seafood & Raw Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

Girasol (Studio City, CA)

Hi

Connie & Ted's (West Hollywood, CA)

Nozawa Bar (Beverly Hills, CA)

Barnyard (Los Angeles, CA)

IO by Playground (Santa Ana, CA) [2]

Yamakase (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

Flores (Los Angeles, CA)

Corazon y Miel (Bell, CA)

Lukshon (Culver City, CA) [2]

Mori Sushi (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

Plate by Plate 2013 Ticket Giveaway

Badmaash (Los Angeles, CA)

Mari Vanna (Los Angeles, CA)