Acabar (Los Angeles, CA)

March 13, 2014, 8:15 pm

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Acabar Restaurant
1510 N Stanley Ave, Hollywood, CA 90046
323.876.1400
www.acabar-la.com
Thu 03/13/2014, 08:15p-11:35p



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I've been wanting to try out Acabar for a while now (it opened last July), and finally made it out recently. The restaurant replaces Dar Maghreb, the famed Hollywood bastion of Moroccan cuisine that closed in September 2012 after almost 40 years in business. The reason for the closure was a change in ownership, and that new ownership is led by none other than big-time director Roland Emmerich. Not being much of a restaurateur himself, he's partnered up here with Jerry Murray as well as the Little Door trio of Sue Choi and brothers Frederic and Nicolas Meschin.

Headlining is "Taste Maker" Octavio Becerra, the Palate and Patina veteran whom we last saw at Circa in Manhattan Beach (interestingly, the Chef used to frequent Dar Maghreb during his high school years). As for the food, it's advertised as "global local," paying homage to the French-influenced cuisines situated along the spice trails that ran through Northern Africa, the Mediterranean, the Middle East, Indochina, and South East Asia. Becerra's joined in the kitchen by Chef de Cuisine Kevin Luzande (Buddha's Belly, Playa, Rivera), who runs the show here day-to-day, as well as Sous Chefs Taylor Sweeney (also from Playa and Rivera) and Oscar Torres (Patina, Ortolan, Playa).

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The 3,900sqft Dar Maghreb space already had some pretty over-the-top architecture going on, so designer Keith Greco (the Cliff's Edge partner who also penned Little Door) tried to preserve as much of the vibe as he could. The tile work on the floors and walls, lavish columns, ornate coffered ceilings, and gold doors out front are all original. On the other hand, walls have been torn down. They've added mirrors, a central fire pit, chandeliers, and a zinc-topped bar that spans the room, connecting the lounge with a 60-seater dining room. There's even a raw bar tucked into a corner near the foyer (with its own tasting menu option). Overall, it's a space that just begs to be called "sexy."

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As for Acabar's menu, it's hard to pin it down to a specific cuisine, as the restaurant's concept allows the Chef to play it loose. Things tend to lean toward a Cal-French-inflected Middle Eastern-Mediterranean with some Asian influences I'd say, and it's small plates, natch, with a few communal dishes for good measure. Meanwhile, the bar program is the work of Julian Cox and Josh Goldman's Soigné Group. It's a deliberately historical selection of cocktails, one ostensibly inspired by Heston Blumenthal's London eatery Dinner. Meanwhile, if you'd prefer wine, there's a pretty nice list put together by longstanding sommelier Emmanuel Faure. Click for larger versions.

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Sherry Cobbler [$12.00] | Dry Amontillado Sherry, Seasonal Fruits
Given the pedigree of Josh and Julian's bar program, we had to go hard on the cocktails, starting with the restaurant's take on the cobbler. It was lovely, with some light, refreshingly fruity notes leading toward the dry, deliciously oxidative quality of the sherry toward the end.

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El Diablo [$12.00] | Blanco Tequila, Ginger, Lime, Cassis, Soda Water
Moving on into the Tiki era now, we had here Trader Vic's devil of a cocktail. I really appreciated the spicy ginger notes in this one, balanced by sugary cassis, the tequila providing an undercurrent of vegetal booziness to this fun libation.

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Les Olives Maison [$8.00] | assorted olives / preserved tangerine / herbs
Olives seemed like a fitting start to the meal, their zesty, piquant flavors amplified by the application of tart citrus, the garlic chips adding a countervailing crunch and savoriness to the mix.

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Caramelized Cauliflower Duo [$13.00] | pickled peppers / currants / dill / za'atar
Cauliflower was enjoyable, arriving to the table nicely crunchy, the combination of currant and pickles adding a layer of sweet-n-sour atop the comparatively mild vegetable, all while the zaatar imparted a deep, complex, earthy weight to the dish that help tie everything together.

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Creole [$12.00] | Bourbon, Sweet Vermouth, Benedictine, CioCiaro
Here, bourbon and vermouth combined in near classic Manhattan-esque fashion, but the use of Bénédictine and CioCiaro made for an herbal-y bittersweet character, lightened up by a whisper of citrus.

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Philadelphia Fish House Punch [$10.00] | Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac, Appleton 12 Yr. Rum, Lemon Sorbet, Peach Brandy, Nutmeg
Punches are available in large bowls, but we went with single servings in order to try more of the cocktails. This Fish House concoction hid its booze surprisingly well, and showed off an almost candied-like sweetness that some of us found reminiscent of SweeTarts.

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Foraged Mushroom Dumplings [$14.00] | mushrooms / asian pumpkin / ginger-kombu broth
The dumplings were superb, and a table favorite. I loved their deep, hearty savor, brightened up by the various herbs here, while the squash imparted just a touch of sweetness to the mix. The best part? That ginger-kombu broth, which I eagerly supped up at the end.

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TI Punch [$12.00] | Rhum Agricole, Cane Syrup, Lime
Next to drink was a version of Ti'Punch, popular in Martinique and surrounding states. I found it surprisingly boozy, the potency of the rum only slightly tempered by the combo of cane and citrus. You could definitely feel this one going down.

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Porn Bread [$12.00] | yam / aged cheddar / bacon / almond-honey butter
Given its provocative name, this was something that we felt compelled to order. It ostensibly took 25 minutes to prepare, and came out appropriately phallic, a play on cornbread that was actually pretty tasty with its contrasting sweet and salty notes, taken up a notch by the excellent almond-honey butter.

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Zombie [$14.00] | Jamaican Rum, Puerto Rican Rum, Lemon-Hart 151, Lime, Don's Mix, Falernum
The drink that's getting the most attention at Acabar is the Zombie, a quintessential tiki invention first seen at Don the Beachcomber. It's the only cocktail I've had that's come out on fire, and despite the theatrics, it was rather delicious, its amalgam of sweet, spicy, and sour flavors really moderating the considerable amount of alcohol present. I could see this being dangerous, hence the two serving limit.

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Tom Collins [$12.00] | Old Tom Gin, Lemon, Soda Water
Acabar's Tom Collins, on the other hand, was a much lighter, refreshing sort of cocktail, the base of Old Tom working seamlessly with the tart lemon to make for an eminently quaffable drink.

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Seared Morro Bay Squid [$13.00] | lebanese pesto / smashed eggplant / grilled meyer lemon / skhug sauce
Squid had a nice bite to it, and was properly briny, melding with the medley of Mediterranean flavors from the eggplant, pesto, and spicy zhug, the Meyer lemon adding layers of enveloping sourness to the dish.

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Crispy Shrimp Toast [$13.00] | rock shrimp / s.s.u quail egg / thai basil / fish sauce
Acabar's shrimp toast was crowned our favorite item of the night, and was the only dish that we ordered another round of. The interplay between the shrimp and the basil was spot on, and went perfectly with the savory crunch of the toast. At the same time, the fish sauce was absolutely key as well, providing an undercurrent of funky, tangy flavors that really brought it all together.

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Spanish Can 'O' Sardines [$14.00] | shaved fennel / house-churned butter / pain rustique
I didn't expect much from this seemingly simple can 'o' sardines, but the course really delivered. What I did was take the bread, spread it with butter, then layer salt, lime, sardine, and greens on top of it. The result was a beautiful balance of fishy and astringent flavors, perked up by pinpoints of salt and wonderful over the base of toast. This is one to get.

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Cuban No. 2 [$12.00] | Cognac, Apricot Liqueur, Lemon
For our next cocktail, we had here a Cuban that I rather enjoyed. I found it viscous and sticky in body, with a delectably fruity apricot quality to it that went up nicely against the lemon.

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Martha Washington's Rum Punch [$10.00] | Batavia Arrack, English Harbor 5 yr. Rum, Lime Sorbet, Lemon Sorbet, Spiced Syrup, Cinnamon & Nutmeg
I was digging the presentation of this next punch, which we were told was based on a recipe from one of the first First Lady's old journals. Think light, and almost tea-like, with sweet spices and notes of citrus up front, all over a backdrop of booze. I could totally picture Martha sipping this at Mount Vernon back in the day.

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Wild Mackerel [$15.00] | fennel fondue / mustard greens / aleppo-tangerine coulis
Mackerel was strongly flavored, the power of the oily fish cut by the mustard as well as the fennel fondue, which lent an overarching "dill-y" flavor to the entire dish.

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Steamed Buns [$15.00] | braised lamb / merguez / cumin carrots / mint salad / tamarind yogurt
Steamed buns at restaurants these days are more likely than not going to be of the ubiquitous David Chang variety, so it was great to see this Middle Eastern-inspired take, the lamb working swimmingly alongside the mint and cooling yogurt.

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Crispy Pork Belly Cubes [$16.00] | sticky rice noodles / lotus root / celery
The pork belly was on point, coming out wonderfully crisp, a mix of lean and fat that blended seamlessly with the spicy, Asian-y sauce here, all while the lotus root and celery provided a countering crunch to things. Interestingly, one of my dining companions found this oddly reminiscent of Korean tteokbokki thanks to the texture on those rice cakes. A standout for me.

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Mezcal Me Maybe [$12.00] | Mezcal, Pamplemousse, Suze, Fino Sherry
At this point, we tried our first original cocktail of the evening, an apparent ode to Carly Rae Jepsen crafted by Acabar's bar program director Aaron Stepka. It was a thick, viscous drink, a smart presentation of mezcal that balanced the smokiness of the spirit with plenty of citrus and an intriguing bittersweetness from the sherry and Suze.

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Chartreuse Swizzle [$12.00] | Green Chartreuse, Pineapple, Lime, Falernum
Also from recent times was this 2003 creation by noted San Francisco barman Marcovaldo "Marco" Dionysos. It's a modern classic of sorts, with its blast of tropical sweetness and nutmeg space cut by the tartness of pineapple and lime, the Chartreuse providing a pungent base to the drink.

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Charred Chicken Wings [$13.00] | green chick peas / quinoa falafel / charred dates / apples / walnut tahini
Chicken wings were tender and succulent, showing off a nice depth of flavor and char, all while the falafel gave up a fantastic bit of crunch. I also appreciated the veggies here as well, which helped impart just enough levity to things.

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Crispy Kibbeh [$12.00] | cracked wheat fritters / pine nuts / baba ghanoush
And speaking of crunch, these kibbeh had it in spades. The bulghur croquettes conveyed a certain nutty quality to them, and worked in concert with the tangy greens while the smoky baba ghanoush served to integrate the various flavors.

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Poulet Rôti [$48.00] | whole roasted chicken / les épinards / ail doux / jus naturel
Acabar turns out a good roast chicken, a hearty, tender, juicy presentation of the bird that was positively imbued with an herby, garlicky flair. The poulet comes with a side of spinach, which veers delightfully garlicky and salty and acerbic, a fitting complement to the chicken.

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Kanpachi Crudo [$14.00] | amber jack fish / mango / blood orange / fresno chilli
Amberjack was clean and crisp, though I wish that the fish could've stood out just a bit more against its vibrantly sweet and sour accoutrements.

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Skewered Spicy Prawns [$14.00] | harissa / dates / labneh yogurt / pistachio
I read somewhere that owner Roland Emmerich is particularly partial to these prawns. However, they were a touch over for me, and also on the sweet side, though the smoky char and heat from the harissa did help reel things in. Also much appreciated: the cool, creamy labneh and zesty salad up top.

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Whole Crispy Sea Bass [$46.00] | choy sum / tendrils / peanuts / sichuan peppercorn sauce
Finally, the evening's pièce de résistance brought us a delightful whole sea bass. The fish itself came meaty and moist, with a satisfyingly crispy skin, and displayed a restrained sort of salinity that worked beautifully against the spice of the Sichuan pepper. I was a big fan of how the brightness of the choy sum and pea tendrils evened out the plate as well, and the nutty crunch of the peanuts was much appreciated, too. Pretty impressive.

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Time for the sweet stuff, and not surprisingly, Acabar's dessert menu takes inspiration from the same place as the savories. Click for a larger version.

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Apple Kelebek [$9.00] | filo dough / pistachio / saba / labneh
First up was an apple-stuffed phyllo pastry, a wondrously flaky sort of thing that masterfully incorporated the sweetness of apple with the honeyed character of labneh. Quite nice.

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Roasted Pear Duo Tartlette [$9.00] | cinnamon-tahini-date ice cream
Pear was presented in rustic fashion here, its softly sweet flavors meshing well with its pastry base. The best part, though, was clearly that ice cream, a marvelous amalgamation of sweet, spicy, and nutty flavors that really perked up the tartlette--gimme a whole pint of the stuff please.

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Macaron Ice Cream Sandwich [$9.00] | neveux artisan creamery
We concluded with an ice cream sandwich featuring Neveux's espresso varietal stacked between layers of fruity, moist macaron.

Despite the sexy environs and even sexier waitstaff, the kitchen largely delivered here under the leadership of Kevin Luzande. The exact style of the cooking is a bit hard to define, but it seemed to somehow flow together, tied together by that common underpinning of French influence. Cocktails were, of course, indubitably worthwhile, and the service was surprisingly affable and efficient as well. Acabar's a welcomed addition to the oft precarious Hollywood dining landscape; there's enough of a "scene" going on, but the cuisine doesn't seem to suffer because of it. Lo and behold, the old Dar Maghreb has finally found food befitting its glamour.

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Pot (Los Angeles, CA)

March 26, 2014, 8:00 pm

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POT Restaurant
3515 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90010
213.368.3030
www.eatatpot.com
Wed 03/26/2014, 08:00p-10:00p



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Koreatown's biggest opening of the year just arrived with the launch of Roy Choi's eagerly anticipated POT on March 25th. Set inside The Line Hotel (he's doing F&B for the whole property), the restaurant is ostensibly named after the traditional family-style hot pot, and not the Chef's herb of choice (why not both?). As for the food, it pays homage to traditional Korean cookery, but as interpreted through the eyes of a Korean-American who's never trained in Korean cuisine.

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With its low ceilings, neutral color palette, and odd vegetation, POT's ambiance reminds me of a bad 1990's restaurant commingled with an institutional cafeteria, but with a tangible modernity. Of note here are the actual tables, each of which have their own induction burner as well as cubbyholes underneath to store various plates and utensils.

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POT's menu is printed on newspaper stock and must've been the largest I'd ever encountered. Up first are the restaurant's namesake hot pots, meant for sharing between groups of two, four, or six, though individual portions are available as well (only if you order a larger pot first though, we were told). You'll find Choi's takes on classic Korean staples on the next page, a handful of more original dishes, as well as the various banchan-y type items too. And to drink, you're looking at a decent array of wine, beer, sake, shochu, soju, as well as cocktails from the POT Lobby Bar. Click for larger versions.

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In lieu of water, diners are instead served boricha, a type of Korean-style roasted barley tea that's very apropos given the setting.

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There's no parade of banchan here like you might receive at other places. Instead, you get three selections, though they're good ones: a fantastic pakimchi with a great spice to go against the green onion's inherent astringency; crunchy and ferment-y kongnamul muchim (soybean sprouts); and some delightfully tangy, nutty, and slightly sweet cucumber oi kimchi.

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Slurp Me [$20.00] | Marinated Blue Crab
Our first proper course was POT's ganjang gejang. What little actual flesh there was came out slick and gelatinous, its sweetness imbued with the umami-rich relish of soy sauce. The best part, though, was clearly the mass of tomalley stored in those shells, mustard-color globs of goo that tasted like super-concentrated crab, saccharine and saline all at once.

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Pickled Kimchi Radish [$2.00]
Radish kimchi was wonderfully crisp and piquant, though I would've preferred thicker pieces to better appreciate their texture.

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Pickled Sea Beans [$2.00] | Ground Sesame, Seaweed
Sea beans were salty, slightly astringent, and smartly paired with the nutty sesame.

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Steam Room [$17.00] | Beer Braised Pork Belly, Sauteed Kimchi, Steamed Tofu
Dubu kimchi was rather enjoyable, the belly coming out fatty, trembling, and almost ridiculously tender, its porky flavors balanced by the sting of kimchi while tofu served to moderate the dish. Yum.

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Beep Beep [$18.00] | Uni Dynamite Rice Bowl
From early reports, the must-try dish seems to be the Beep Beep, which is hardly surprisingly since it contains copious amounts of uni. It was certainly one of the most creative uses of the ingredient I've seen, with the roe's sweet, creamy character giving way to a palpable amount of spice and tang while the rice sort of tied everything together. I was impressed by how the urchin remained the hero in the dish despite all the other strong flavors at play. Great texture on that nurungji, too.

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Boot Knocker [$23.00/small] | Tofu, Instant Ramen, Canned Meats (Spam, Corned Beef Hash, Spicy Pork Sausage), Rice Cakes, Fish Cakes, Chili Paste, Herbs, Pork and Seafood Broth
At this point, our various hot pots arrived, the first of which managed to be the favorite of the group. It's basically a version of budae jjigae, or army stew, where a bunch of things are tossed in together and cooked in a gochujang broth. I loved the mish-mash of ingredients here, the canned meats in particular (hadn't had Lit'l Smokies in ages), as well as how the noodles helped integrate the soup. Very satisfying in a sordid sort of way.

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We needed to drink something more than mere boricha, and beer seemed like a good choice given the food. The St. Bernardus Abt 12, Watou, Belgium [$28] was a winner, a benchmark of the quadrupel style: think sweet, spicy, and fruit-forward, brimming with caramel-y flavors and just a touch of bitterness to balance things out.

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Shorty [$16.00/individual] | Braised Galbi, Chestnuts, Dates, Taro, Carrots, Turnips, Scallion, Sesame
Our second jjigae, on the other hand, was much more contemplative, featuring lush, tender cuts of short rib that were just bursting with deep, dark, sugary flavors recalling hongshao rou. The broth, meanwhile, came loaded with a laundry list of ingredients, and conveyed a bitter, herbal, near-medicinal quality to it that I found hearty and heartwarming.

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Old School [$17.00/individual] | Marinated Prime-Rib Bulgogi, Noodles, Kimchi, Scallion, Sesame
The next hot pot was as old school as the name would imply, showing off the traditional sweet-savory deliciousness of bulgogi, beautifully set off by the zing of the included herbs and veggies. Classic and comforting--tastes like K-Town.

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Dang, Son [$11.00/individual] | Spicy Rice Cakes, Fish Cakes, Onions, Chewy Noodles, Hard Boiled Eggs, Scallion, Anchovy Broth
Our final stew was probably the spiciest of the bunch, and I was a fan of the soft yet substantial strips of fish cake, as well as how the noodles sort of linked all the various elements together. Very nice broth too, with its dose of heat and undercurrent of anchovy goodness.

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On to the next beer. We thoroughly enjoyed The Bruery Mischief, Placentia, CA [$19] as well, a great example of strong Belgian golden ale. I found it floral and delightfully yeasty, with notes of fruity malt and spice along with just enough bitterness. Very well balanced.

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Noodle of the Day [$11.00] | Chilled Somen Noodle with Various Raw and Pickled Vegetable, Chili Paste, Shredded Beef, Hard Boiled Egg
We ended our meal at POT with the restaurant's daily noodle selection, and tonight's was a version of the classic bibim guksu. It was a refreshing change of pace from the heavier dishes preceding, a lovely amalgam of nutty, sweet, salty, and spicy tastes and disparate textures, all beautifully brought together by the thin strands of somyeon.

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Unfortunately, POT doesn't do dessert, but diners are encouraged to visit POT caFe outside after their meal.

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The caFe slangs a variety breads, pastries, cakes, desserts, coffee, teas, and even a limited selection of booze. Click for larger versions.

It looks like Roy Choi has yet another winner on his hands. The menu may read waggish, fanciful, even irreverent, but the flavors are robust, bold, legit, really capturing the essence of Korean cuisine, with a cheffy sort of finesse elevating the cooking. It's the type of place you may find yourself coming back to again and again (though I wish they were open later). I guess the takeaway here is that this is not just Korean food, but Roy Choi's Korean food. You know you want to check it out.

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Canlis (Seattle, WA)

April 4, 2014, 5:30 pm

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Canlis Restaurant
2576 Aurora Ave N, Seattle, WA 98109
206.283.3313
www.canlis.com
Mon 03/03/2014, 05:30p-08:15p



After dining at upstart Joule the previous day, we went for pretty much its polar opposite this evening: Canlis. Situated in Seattle's posh Queen Anne district, this bastion of fine dining has been the spot for a fancy night out in the City for over 60 years, and has been in the possession of the Canlis family for that entire span.

It all began with great-grandfather Nicholas Canlis, a Greek immigrant who once cooked for President Teddy Roosevelt on safari. After arriving in the US, he got married and opened the original incarnation of Canlis in Stockton, California. Peter, his eldest son, grew up in the business, but struck out on his own in the late 1930's, moving to Honolulu, where he worked first as a shoe salesman but later started managing food service for the USO during the War. In 1946, he opened his first restaurant in Waikiki (on the site of the current Hyatt Regency), taking over the Golden Palms and turning it into the Charcoal Broiler (closed 1953). Peter eventually moved back to the Mainland, settling in Seattle, and opened Canlis in December 1950, with Chef and Hawaii native Joe Ching at the helm. The building was designed by Roland Terry, and soon became a landmark in Northwest mid-century modern architecture. The success of Canlis allowed Peter to open addition outposts in Honolulu (1954, on Waikiki), Portland (1959, on the top floor of the Hilton), and San Francisco (1965, at the Fairmont).

Okinawan-Hawaiian Rocky Toguchi took over as chef in the late 1960's following Ching's retirement, while Peter passed away in July 1977 after a fight with lung cancer. Following, his son Chris left his job at Wells Fargo in California and returned to Seattle to run the restaurant with wife Alice. Toguchi, meanwhile, bowed out on New Year's Eve 2000, and was replaced by Greg Atkinson, who would only stay until December 2002. In 2003, Chris' sons Mark and Brian started getting involved in contemporizing the place, and would take over completely in 2005, working with new Executive Chef Aaron Wright and longtime Canlis veteran Jeff Taton (who started out in 1981 as a dishwasher) to modernize the menu. Wright would decamp in 2008, replaced by Jason Franey, the fifth ever head chef at the restaurant.

About the Chef: Franey was born in 1977 in Austin, but was raised in West Palm Beach. He started cooking on and off at age 15, and quickly became hooked. After finishing high school, he skipped college and instead began working at various kitchens in the area before landing at The Breakers in Palm Beach at age 20. He started at a casual seafood bar at the resort, but quickly transitioned to the property's fine dining venue, L'Escalier. In 2002, Franey moved to San Francisco, landing a gig at Campton Place under Laurent Manrique, who left eight months later to helm Aqua. Replacing him was none other than Daniel Humm, who revitalized the restaurant and made Franey his Executive Sous. After garnering a four-star review from the Chronicle, Humm was poached by Danny Meyer to take over Eleven Madison Park. Franey followed him to EMP in 2006 (where he would meet his current Exec Sous Deborah Taylor), but two years later, the two decided that it was time for him to run his own kitchen.

The GM at Eleven Madison, Will Guidara, had attended Cornell with Brian Canlis, and Mark Canlis had once worked for Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group, so Franey easily made his way to Canlis. He officially took over in December 2008 at age 31, replacing Aaron Wright, who had moved back to California. Franey breathed new life into the menu, infusing it with his "Comfort Geek" stylings and in the process gaining recognition from Food & Wine in 2011 as one of "America's Best New Chefs" and "The People's Best New Chef: Northwest." This was followed by nods from James Beard, the organization deeming him a nominee for "Best Chef: Northwest" in both 2012 and 2013.

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As for Canlis' menu, there are two distinct ways to dine here. You can have the old school style with three- or four-course prix fixe options ($85/$100), but naturally, we opted for the much more contemporary Chef's Tasting Menu (seen above), a seven-courser at $125, plus $65/$125 for wine/premium wine. In addition to the pairings, you'll also find a massive wine list with roughly 2,500 selections managed by Wine Director Nelson Daquip and Sommelier Kevin Weeks. There's also a surprisingly good array of beer, as well as cocktails from Head Barman James MacWilliams. Click for a larger version.

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A trio of amuses set the stage for the evening. I ate left to right, and first up was a mushroom tart, its combination of creamy, earthy flavors evened out by its crisp, savory crust. A rice chip with egg, edamame, and wasabi tobiko was even better; I was a big fan of how its commixture of Asian-y elements all worked together so seamlessly. Lastly, we had Canlis' version of a Tater Tot, a hot, hearty presentation of the grade school classic that showed off a particularly silky texture.

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Nemean Lion (Jose Castillo) [$16.00] | Royal Dock gin, Cynar, Cherry Herring, grapefruit, lemon, rosemary
Time for a couple cocktails. The Nemean Lion was rather enjoyable, a deft blend of bittersweet, vegetal, and tart flavors overarched by the intoxicating aroma of rosemary.

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Arc de Cézanne [$14.00] | Cappelletti, Suze, sparkling wine, seasonal fruit
The Arc de Cézanne, meanwhile, wasn't a bad choice either, its initial thrust of astringent, herbaceous notes leading to a rich, fruity character on the finish.

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Bread comprised an excellent sourdough roll encrusted with fennel.

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1: Squash, Apple, & Curry
Squash soup was fortunately subdued in its sweetness, a comforting, home-y sort of potage brightened up by juicy bits of apple, all while curry imparted a much-appreciated savoriness and spice to the mix.

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2: Fluke | Rhubarb, blood orange, and nori
2011 Eric Bordelet, Poiré Granit Cider, Normandy, FRA
Fluke crudo was very satisfying texturally, and conveyed a mildly briny relish beautifully amped up by contrasting sweet, tart, and herby notes, the nori providing a wonderful jolt of umami toward the end.

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3: Dungeness Crab | Granny Smith apple, celery, and black garlic
2012 Two Vintners "Boushey Vineyards" Grenache Blanc, Yakima Valley, WA
Dungeness was a favorite of mine, arriving super sweet, yet ocean-y, delicious on its own, but even better when taken with the fruit, which amplified the inherent sugariness of the crustacean. I was also impressed by the use of celery here, which really added a perfect exclamation point to the dish.

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4: Lobster | Fennel, orange, and tarragon
2012 Domaine Closel, La Jalousie, Savennières, Loire Valley, FRA
Lobster was pretty much flawless, springy and snappy to the bite and utterly imbued with a sweet salinity. I enjoyed the meat on its own, but the citrus was a smart, complementary pairing, and I was really into the zesty kick of the fennel here as well.

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5: Venison | Fingerling potatoes, asparagus, and black truffle
2007 Cheval Des Andes, Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, ARG
We ended our savories with venison, its lean, gamey flavors proudly displayed, yet tempered by the bitterness of the included greenery. I loved how the gnocchi here served to ground the dish as well, and appreciated the veil of earthiness imparted by the truffle, too.

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6: Satsuma | Tahitian vanilla panna cotta and sassafras
Time to sample the work of Pastry Chef Baruch Ellsworth, who comes to Canlis from San Francisco's Benu and The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton. Satsumas were presented here in both gelée and granité form, giving us a burst of citrus-y tartness moderated by the lushness of panna cotta, with the crumbs of sassafras contributing a delightful savory crunch to the fray.

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7: Chocolate Ganache | Apple and brown butter
Blandy's 5yr Bual Madeira, PGL
Next, the requisite chocolate dessert was spruced up with the addition of apple, the sweet 'n' sour nature of the fruit melding flawlessly with the rich, sticky ganache, all while the brown butter ice cream made the dessert all the better.

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Our meal coming to an end, we were presented with a box containing two types of macarons. The Campari version played the bitterness of the apéritif against the sweetness of white chocolate; and on the other hand, the apple pie variety really did taste like its name would imply, replete with a cinnamon-y spice.

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To take home: Apple Cinnamon Caramel chocolate bars, imprinted with the Canlis name.

Before coming to Canlis, I had a bit of trepidation that the food here would veer anachronistic. Certainly, that may very well be true on the prix fixe side of things, but the tasting menu was surprisingly contemporary. There's definitely a palpable sort of modernity at play, but it doesn't draw too much attention to itself. The cooking is still approachable, and the flavors not too otherworldly, but also far from humdrum. So despite being 64 years old, Canlis has somehow still managed to stay relevant, which is a commendable thing.

LQ Foodings at Vertical Wine Bistro (Pasadena, CA) [2]

April 7, 2014, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: The Red Hen (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Canlis (Seattle, WA)

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LQ @ Vertical Wine Bistro
70 N Raymond Ave, Pasadena, CA 91103
213.610.9882
www.bistrolq.com
Mon 03/24/2014, 08:15p-10:50p



Since his last "Fooding" event at Vertical, Laurent Quenioux has brought his pop-up to London (in partnership with the Chateau Marmot dining club) and crafted the menu for the new Etchea Cafe & Bakery in Downtown. Now he's back at Vertical for another round with longtime collaborators Sous Chef Daniel Vasquez and Pastry Chef Anthony Huynh, and tonight was an extra-special occasion featuring the southern French classic of cassoulet.

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The evening's menu was a three-courser priced at $38 per person, with the option of an additional cheese course (a must get for us). Click for a larger version.

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Wines tonight were graciously provided by Michael Nemcik, who had procured them from local bottle shop Domaine LA (corkage was a reasonable $10). Our first was the 2012 Domaine Les Terrasses D'Eole Côtes du Ventoux Mountagniero, a GSM blend that veered toward rustic, with its spicy-peppery character set off by some green, earthy notes over a base of dark berry.

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1: Traditional Burgundy Region Eggs "meurette" or "Fierson" Eggs | Poached in red wine, Burgundy reduction, Mushrooms, Pearl onions, smoked Bacon
We began with the Burgundian specialty of oeufs en meurette. A duo of eggs were poached in red wine, coming out utterly rich and creamy, giving the dish an enveloping lushness that melded seamlessly with the salty, earthy, wine-y sauce. A home-y, satisfying sort of course, with the crostini adding a great textural contrast, though I would've liked to have some more bread to soak up the remaining liquid with.

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Our next wine was the 2011 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Domaine. It was a Cab Franc from the Loire, one with aromas of red berry and just a touch of funk, while taste-wise, think silky and more berry on the palate, yet lean and a bit mineral-y, with nice tannins and a whisper of bell pepper on the close. Very nicely balanced.

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2: Cassoulet | Tarbais Beans Braised for 7 hours, Duck confit, Lamb Neck, Confit Pork Belly, Toulouse Sausage, Garlic Saucisson, Aromates
The cassoulet then arrived family-style in its namesake cassole, loaded up with pricey ($20+ a pound) haricot Tarbais, pork belly, duck confit, lamb neck, and two types of sausage. It was a delicious, unabashedly comforting sort of casserole, really capturing the essence of French country cooking and the best interpretation of the dish I've had. I was particularly fond of the deep flavors and wonderful char of the pork and duck, as well as the two types of tubed meat, and really appreciated how the white beans grounded the dish and brought everything together. Despite its massive size, we managed to polish the course off in its entirety.

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Last up for wine was the 2010 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Longeroies, which displayed a bevy of juicy fruit notes along with a certain elegance and a counterbalancing tannic quality. Delish.

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Selections from the City's best cheese cart were offered at 3 for $12, 5 for $20, and 7 for $28. We naturally went for the septet, which was accompanied by a foursome of jams (apple-peach, strawberry-balsamic, tomatillo, rhubarb), nuts, as well as bread from upstart bakery Bread Lounge. Going left to right, we had:

• Selles-sur-Cher - A goat's milk cheese; creamy, dry, and sticky, with a distinct mushroom-y note from the charcoal-laced rind.
• Pont-l'Évêque - A smooth, slick, subtly pungent cow's milk varietal that I was quite fond of.
• Valençay - Another goat's milk cheese, this one tasting light and nutty.
• Livarot - A washed rind cow's milk fromage that was easily the funkiest of the seven we had.
• Cantal - Cow's milk; crumbly and dry, with a Cheddar-like tang.
• Époisses - A cow's milk cheese that's one of my perennial favorites; as lush and as barnyard-y as ever.
• Roquefort - Perhaps the most popular sheep's milk blue around; super salty and tangy, but with a sweetness to it.

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3: Gateau Basque | Traditional south west of France Almond Cake
We concluded with one of the tastiest cakes I've had in a while, the Gâteau Basque, which, as the name implies, comes from the Basque region of France. I was a big fan of its supple, moist, almost custard-esque consistency, while taste-wise, it's almond-y sweetness was spot on, and a superb complement to the tart bits of berry on the side.

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Finally, to close out the night, Michael opened up a bottle of his 2011 Chopin Single Young Potato Vodka, a single-distilled vintage spirit made with early-harvested Denar potatoes. It was quite unlike most any other vodka I've had, viscous in body and showing off much more character with its softly sweet taste and notes of zesty spice. It reminded me a bit of Karlsson's. Very neat.

Quenioux and his team once again delivered a fine meal, and it was great to see a different side of his cooking, one less concerned about bistronomie and more about the core, the essence of traditional French cuisine. As for what's next, LQ will be back in London this April, and plans are for Quenioux and company to open up a new place later this year where diners will be able to experience the Chef's tasting menus on a regular basis. More to come...

The Red Hen (Washington, DC)

April 1, 2014, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Jinpachi (West Hollywood, CA)

≪ Previous: LQ Foodings at Vertical Wine Bistro (Pasadena, CA) [2]

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The Red Hen Restaurant
1822 1st St NW, Washington, DC 20002
202.525.3021
www.theredhendc.com
Tue 04/01/2014, 08:30p-10:30p



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I started off my last trip to DC with a dinner at Italian-ish place Etto, so I figured I might as well stick with the same theme this time around. Opened in April 2013 in DC's Bloomingdale neighborhood, The Red Hen serves up Italian-inflected American cuisine with a Mid-Atlantic flair, and is the work of longtime friends Chef Michael Friedman, GM Michael O'Malley (a Lettuce Entertain You alum), and Sommelier Sebastian Zutant (Estadio, Proof, Rasika, Komi, Nectar, Chef Geoff's).

About the Chef: A native of Westfield, New Jersey, Friedman didn't grow up immersed in a culinary-focused environment, but instead got his first job in the business after graduating from Boston University with a degree in communications. He worked at Lettuce Entertain You's Mon Ami Gabi bistro as a prep cook, and quickly fell in love with the craft, staying three years with Richard Melman's hospitality group before enrolling in the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park. During his tenure at the CIA, Friedman staged at Lucques, Morimoto, and The Modern, and following graduation, secured a gig at José Andrés'Zaytinya. He spent two years there, then left to eat his way around Europe and North Africa. Upon returning, he apprenticed at Incanto, Vetri, and Scarpetta before becoming Chef de Cuisine at DC's Proof, working under Haidar Karoum. Friedman stayed there until 2012, when he, O'Malley, and Zutant began work on The Red Hen.

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The Red Hen's 2,400sqft interior seats 50, and was designed in part by Zutant's wife Lauren Winter from Edit Lab, the firm that penned Rogue 24 and Daikaya. Think wood, lots of wood, light wood at that, making for a "modern barn chic" sort of vibe with the restaurant's high ceilings and super open kitchen housing a wood-fired Grillworks grill.

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As for The Red Hen's menu, it's laid out in classic starters-pastas-mains fashion, and most of the items ostensibly go through the "campfire" at some point or another. To drink, Zutant has put together a list of 100 or so Italian-leaning wines, a few beers, and some seasonal cocktails. Click for larger versions.

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The requisite bread arrived subtly garlicky, enhanced to great effect by the application of the included olive oil and balsamic combo.

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Stealing Beauty [$9.00] | Bourbon, Blackberry Preserve, Lemon, Agave Nectar
I opted for cocktails to start, and this first one came recommended by my server. She was right on though, and I loved the drink's interplay between sweet, boozy, and sour notes, along with its lingering, honeyed finish. Superbly well thought out and integrated.

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Smoked Ricotta Crostini with Balsamic Brown Butter & Truffle Honey [$6.00]
The crostini may look simple, but taste wise, they were spot on, a flawless marriage of smoky-creamy-sweet enveloped in a light veil of truffle. Really some of the best crostini I've had.

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Grilled Octopus with Shelling Beans, Romesco, Shaved Fennel & Frisee [$14.00]
The octopus was certainly a standout in a meal full of strong dishes. It was cooked pretty much perfectly, coming out tender and wonderfully charred, its savory, saline flavors brightened by the duo of fennel and frisée while the beans served to lend some heft to the dish. Excellent.

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Beyond the Darkness [$9.00] | Bourbon, White Wine Syrup, Bitters
My next cocktail was definitely stiffer (and far more viscous), with its initial wine-y character leading to satisfyingly boozy, bitter, and citrus-y notes toward the back end.

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Salt Cod Brandade with Chives & Garlic Toast [$12.00]
The Red Hen's brandade was also impeccable, its gritty, yet silky consistency giving off a wonderful blend of salty and fishy flavors that were dutifully tempered by the application of chive. Fantastic alone, and even better when taken with the crunchy slivers of toast.

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My table afforded me a front row seat to all the kitchen action (mostly consisting of the Chef expediting).

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Holiday Inn [$9.00] | Don Amada Mezcal, Crème de Cacao, Dry Curacao
My last cocktail went with the pastas and was on point as well. Think smoky and chocolate-y, with a backbone of sweetness that really brought everything together.

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Mezze Rigatoni with Fennel Sausage Ragu & Pecorino Romano [$16.00]
Pastas are all made in-house, and the rigatoni's arguably The Red Hen's signature preparation. The star of the show for me was the sausage, which was precisely spiced and imbued with mouthwatering notes of fennel. Taken with the salty cheese and the just-firm-enough pasta, and the overall effect is like a dish you might make at home, but with infinitely more finesse.

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Baked Semolina Gnocchi with Wild Mushroom Ragu, Spring Onion & Hazelnut Pesto [$17.00]
Gnocchi were unlike any other version I've had, arriving to the table in large blocks. Texturally, they were just what you'd be looking for though: soft, supple, almost fluffy, with a rich, creamy relish that really formed a great stage for the bright, nutty pesto and earthy depth of the mushrooms to really sing.

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The Red Hen's somewhat known for its focus on orange wine, so I went with the flow and got a glass of the Nino Barraco Catarratto, Sicily, 2010 [$12]. It really was quite lovely, giving off an almost oxidative quality on the nose, and a taste that veered nutty and spicy, yet very fresh and invigorating.

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Roasted Rockfish with Soft Polenta, Grilled Kale & Spring Onion Salsa Verde [$23.00]
I was quite full by this point, but wanted to sample one of the mains, and this happened to be the lightest of the bunch. The fish was done justice here, cooked to a firm, flaky consistency and showing off a restrained flavor that paired swimmingly with the bitter greens and zesty salsa, all while the cheesy polenta added a palpable richness to the course.

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Crispy Artichokes with Dill & Anchovy Aioli [$8.00]
As if I wasn't eating enough, the kitchen then sent out an order of the artichokes to go along with the rockfish. I'm no fan of the vegetable in general, but this was undoubtedly one of the strongest preparations of it that I've tried. The frying gave the artichokes a really satisfying savor, and I was a fan of the herb-y accents from the dill, as well as how the fishy aioli help tie it all together. Very nice.

The Red Hen was an unquestionably strong start to my most recent round of DC dining. The cooking may have an Italian base to it, but the Chef's interpretations of the cuisine are really what made the restaurant shine. The food is comforting, robust, but with a exuberant, modern edge to it that makes it all the more special. The place is almost perpetually packed, and turns out there's a good reason for that.

Jinpachi (West Hollywood, CA)

April 14, 2014, 7:25 pm

≫ Next: Izakaya Seki (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: The Red Hen (Washington, DC)

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Jinpachi Restaurant
8711 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
310.358.9134
Thu 03/20/2014, 07:25p-10:50p



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Jinpachi's one of those sushi spots that have been on my radar for years, but which I'd just never gotten around to trying. I'd first heard about the place after FoodDigger (remember them?) held their first blogger dinner there back in '08 (the halcyon days of the scene). It's the work of Hirotaka "Taka" Fujita, a fourth-generation chef who named the restaurant after an ancestor of his, Jinpachi Kishi. Kishi ran a catering business in Japan back in the day, which was also called Jinpachi.

About the Chef: Hirotaka Fujita, thus, was born into the family business, which his father Sadao ran at the time. From an early age, he knew that he wanted to cook, and began his formal training at age 16, working both for the original Jinpachi as well as other restaurants in the area. Three years later, however, his dad came down with diabetes, and the family shuttered the catering company due to his ailment, driving Fujita to leave the field for two years. In 1995, he visited an old friend who had settled in Florida, and decided at that moment that he wanted to get back into the biz Stateside. He worked for a while in Florida, then relocated to Los Angeles, landing a gig at Nobu Malibu after meeting Chef Matsuhisa himself. Fujita was impressed by Nobu's melding of international influences into Japanese cuisine, but eventually made his way to Takao in Brentwood, which was started in 1996 by another Matsuhisa alum, Takao Izumida. Following, he worked for Hiro Nishimura at his eponymous Nishimura in WeHo before debuting Jinpachi in April 2006.

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Jinpachi's a small, narrow restaurant, swathed in dark cherry, holding a nine-seater bar and a couple tables on the ground floor, along with a larger area upstairs meant for groups.

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As for the menu, we opted to go omakase at $150 a head, natch. However, you can easily do both nigiri, makizushi, and even a few "new style" sashimi dishes à la carte (ostensibly inspired by the Chef's time at Nobu), and there's also a limited hot menu too. To drink, we found a fairly decent sake list, as well as a smattering of wines and beers. Click for larger versions.

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Starting with sake, we had a bottle of the Jinpachi, Ginjo, Akita [$65], which, as the name implies, is specially made for the restaurant. It was a really solid choice, very clean and crisp on the palate, with a floral, fruity character joined by an undercurrent of booziness toward the back end.

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1: Mozuku
We commenced with a small bowl of slippery mozuku, paired with slivers of jumbo clam and crunchy cucumber. This was a real celebration of acid and vinegar, the zesty taste of the seaweed the star, balanced by the mildness of kyuri.

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2: Ankimo
Next was a superb presentation of ankimo that found the liver wonderfully creamy, yet subtle, with a growing salinity and earthiness that was set off beautifully by the scallions. The best part? The smear of spicy-sweet miso on the side, a perfect complement to the monkfish.

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3: Kumamoto
Oysters came in a set of three. Going front to back, I started with the ginger-topped variation, which conveyed a really nice depth that wasn't nearly as piercing or as bright as I would've thought--a great complement to the Kumamoto. The uni-ponzu version, meanwhile, had the richness of the urchin leading to a whisper of wasabi burn on the end. My favorite, though, had a wonderful sort of red chili paste, which paired gorgeously with the oyster and aromatic herb on top.

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4: Magurozuke
Marinated blue fin came with nagaimo and chopped wasabi. The combination of the rich, savory tuna and the piquant wasabi was spot on, moderated by the mild mountain yam while the flecks of nori added an ocean-y, umami-laced finish to the course.

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Out came the ginger and wasabi, which signaled the start of our parade of sushi.

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5: Shima Aji
Japanese yellowjack or striped jack was lovely with its excellent texture and elegant taste, wonderfully amped up by a topping of savory onion. A very promising start to things.

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6: Hotate
Jumbo scallops came from Japan and were appropriately supple, with a sweetness to them that paired in stellar fashion with the minty kick of shiso and just a whisper of creeping heat. A favorite of ours.

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7: Kinmedai
Next came golden eye snapper, which really had a nice bite to it, along with an undertone of sourness balanced by tiny jolts of salt.

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7: Mebachi
Big eye tuna was super clean, super slick, though it didn't display as much character as the bluefin.

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9: Hamachi Hara
One of the heftiest pieces of sushi was the yellowtail belly, which was even fattier, even richer than your typical cut. The soy was essential here for balance.

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10: Sake Tataki
Seared salmon arrived oily and delicious, with a great char character and a hit of pungent goodness from the accompanying garlic chip.

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11: Uni/Ikura
Some egg-on-egg action going on here. Uni came from Santa Barbara and was suitably creamy and lush, but with a sharp ocean-y bent to it that went superbly with the seaweed. The salmon roe was on point as well, arriving super smoky and literally bursting with briny goodness.

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Our itamae this evening was Chef Hideyuki, a 24-year veteran of the biz, though he doesn't quite look it. Hide-san's been at Jinpachi for one-and-a-half years, and prior, worked at Izaka-ya by Katsu-ya in Manhattan Beach.

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12: Otoro
O-toro was of the Spanish variety and was a winner, nearing melt-in-your-mouth status with its unabashedly fattiness, tempered only by the brush of soy on top.

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Our next sake was of the unfiltered type, the Hadareyuki "Nigori", Junmai Ginjyo, Akita [$45]. This one was quite viscous, and showed off a rice-y sort of sweetness up front that led to a touch of alcoholic heat on the close. Quite nice though.

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13: Kohada
Gizzard shad from Japan was the fishiest item of the night, and firm in body, with its strong taste evened out by a focused hit of acid.

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14: Sawara
Described by Hide-san as king mackerel, Japanese sawara was a great example of the ingredient, with a subtle, restrained fishiness seamlessly integrated with notes of ginger and wasabi.

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15: Binnaga Maguro
Albacore was almost unbelievably soft, with a straightforward savor enhanced by its tangy accompaniments.

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16: Tai
Red snapper conveyed a great bit of chew to it, and was smartly brightened up by contrasting nuances of salt and citrus.

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17: Ebi Atama
Deep-fried shrimp always manages to satisfy, and this preparation was as crunchy and tasty as you'd expect, with a pleasant tartness from the drizzle of sauce on top.

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18: Amaebi
And then came the body, a shining example of translucent Santa Barbara sweet shrimp that was so fresh, so clean, with a wonderful snappiness to boot.

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19: Sake Hara
Salmon belly was something else, coming out utterly fatty and luxurious, with a soft, supple consistency to it that was almost toro-like.

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20: Asari no Misoshiru
A miso soup featuring clam was hot and hearty and comforting, the super ocean-y notes of the asari a great pair to the dish's classic umami-laden relish. However, errant bits of sand in the clams did mar the experience somewhat.

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21: Sayori
Needlefish was one of the prettier nigiri we had, and displayed a palpable fishy quality initially that gradually went away, fading to the character of the shari.

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22: Engawa Tataki
Halibut fin is always a treat, but I don't think I'd ever had a seared version before. That's too bad, because it was excellent: slightly chewy to the bite, and with a beautiful balance of char and tang.

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23: Toro Tataki
Seared toro was as extravagant as you'd want--downright unctuous if you will, a blend of fat and char and fish that satisfies in a base sort of way. The garlic chip added an interesting element to the fray, but wasn't strictly needed.

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24: Anago/Tamago Maki
Our first hand roll was something that I'd never seen before, commingling both tamago and anago. It really worked though, with the hot eel and cool egg providing a contrast in terms of both taste and temperature while pickle-y bits imparted crunch and acid to the mix.

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We moved on to beer at this point, specifically the Hitachino Nest Red Rice [$12]. I quite liked it, with its apparent malt character and rice-y sort of quality setting the stage for an intriguing, almost olive-like taste.

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25: Uni Tataki
Seared uni was also a rarity, something I'd only had at Opus before. It was absolutely lovely, the inherent sweetness of the roe an excellent base for the smoky, savory notes present. One of my dining companions even likened this to "charred butter."

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26: Watarigani Maki
Then came the ubiquitous blue crab hand roll, the classic cool, saccharine salinity of the crab proudly displayed, but with the added creaminess of avocado adding further lushness to the course.

For dessert, we had our pick from the two items below, made by Pastry Chef Tomoko Okabe, Taka's wife. She worked at both Nobu and Spago prior, and also helps with Jinpachi's hot kitchen as well.

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27: Parfait
The Jinpachi parfait was basically an anmitsu, a commixture of ice cream, mochi, jelly, red bean, and chestnuts that blended a bevy of disparate tastes and textures into a semi-cohesive, semi-sweet whole.

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28: Cream Cheese Pudding
Last up was an eggy, sugary pudding topped with a super sticky, bittersweet caramelized layer, the whole amalgam paired with a delightful quenelle of vanilla ice cream.

It took me years to make it out to Jinpachi, but the restaurant was worth the wait, delivering a meal that stood with some of the top places in the City. I honestly wasn't expecting such a quality experience, but the food really spoke for itself. You should probably add this place to your sushi to-try list if you haven't already.

Izakaya Seki (Washington, DC)

April 2, 2014, 9:15 pm

≫ Next: Alma (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

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Izakaya Seki Restaurant
1117 V St NW, Washington, DC 20009
202.588.5841
www.sekidc.com
Wed 04/02/2014, 09:15p-11:15p



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After dining at The Red Hen the previous night, I went in a completely different direction with tonight's meal at Izakaya Seki. The place opened in July 2012, and is the work of Chef/Owner Hiroshi Seki and his daughter Cizuka. The elder Seki actually moved to the US from Japan in 1972 to help open a restaurant for someone else, and ended up settling in St. Louis, where he started the well regarded Seki's Japanese Restaurant in 1990. That business shuttered in May 2011, and Hiroshi moved to DC to be closer to his daughter and to open an eatery where he could cook things that ostensibly wouldn't fly in Missouri. Cizuka Seki, meanwhile, left her career as a corporate environmental consultant to serve as GM-slash-Partner here.

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Izakaya Seki occupies the old Spotts barbershop building, and features a 10-seater kitchen bar on the bottom floor (where I sat), along with a larger dining room for 30 upstairs.

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The regular menu features all your izakaya favorites whether raw, grilled, or fried, steamed or simmered, and is joined by a rotating selection of seasonal specials (which you'll want to pay close attention to). To drink, you get a surprisingly large selection of Japanese beers, including many that you don't see often, as well as an array of sake and shochu, whiskey, and a few requisite wines. Click for larger versions.

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I went all beer this evening, and started with the Koshihikari Echigo [$13], which my server recommended as going best with the food. It did fit the bill nicely, coming in surprisingly sweet initially, with a malty, rice-y base to it that I was pretty satisfied with. Clean and refreshing overall.

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Sashimi Omakase - Ume [$13.00]
I began, fittingly, with a small selection of sashimi. Tuna was on point, coming in soft and subtly briny, and really opening up with a dab of wasabi and soy. The sea bream, on the other hand, was sticky and super clean, great with its various accompaniments. Finally, octopus was quite good flavor wise, but slightly on the chewy side.

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Sardines with Ponzu [$11.00]
Fried iwashi were excellent, my favorite item of the night in fact. Arriving wonderfully salty and fishy, with a great char, crispness, and citrus-y tang, they were probably the best preparation of the ingredient I'd ever had, and I loved how you could eat the entire fish, bones and everything.

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Grilled Saba with Salt [$13.00]
The saba shioyaki was a standout as well. I was a big fan of its oily, fatty quality and rich, savory relish, beautifully balanced by a touch of char bitterness and the lightness of the daikon and citrus on the side.

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Cauliflower Nanban [$8.00]
For something lighter, I went with cauliflower done in a nanban style, which had a multitude of sour, sweet, and spicy flavors to complement the crunchy florets.

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Uzaku: BBQ Eeel & Cucumber [$12.00]
Moving on, grilled unagi was super soft, almost gelatinous, and conveyed a sweet, ocean-y taste that was tempered by the bright crunch of the included cucumbers. Great nutty tinge here too from the sprinkle of sesame seeds.

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Karaage: Baby Octopus [$12.00]
Fried octopus was superb, super savory and with a flawless texture, a blend of snappy and crunchy that I found immensely satisfying. I just wanted to keep popping these little guys.

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Tako Wasa [$5.00] | octopus, fresh wasabi
At this point, I went into Seki's regular menu, starting with this blend of raw diced octopus and wasabi, which had a permeating, lingering heat to it that really evened out the brine of the tako.

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Porkbelly Kakuni [$14.00] | slow braised silk pork
The kakuni was a home-y sort of dish, a fatty, rich, tender, savory-sweet concoction of belly moderated by the block of mild tofu, all while a smear of karashi mustard imparted a noticeable spice to the pork.

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For my next beer, I opted for a Hefeweizen, specifically the Ginga Kogen [$12]. This one was also quite nice, with its fruity, yeasty character balanced by a backbone of citrus-y tang.

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Obanzai (three sides) [$10.50]
Three side dishes to accompany the rest of my meal:

• Daikon radish salad - Delightfully snappy and tangy, with a nutty finish. Very nice.
• Kinpira: burdock and lotus root, chili - A commixture of disparate textures and tastes, tied together by an earthy flavor profile.
• Hijiki: black seaweed, fish cakes - Smoky and savory, with a bit of a nutty quality and some interesting textural points.

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Beef tongue [$12.00] | w/ mustard
Of course, I had to get the tongue, and the version here was mildly smoky in savor, with a sweet-spicy sauce and a sprinkling of scallion on the side. However, I would've liked the meat cut thinner, with more charring to really accentuate the tongue's inherent goodness.

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Tsukune [$8.00] | chicken meatballs
Tsukune were light and fluffy, with the juicy, succulent essence of the bird augmented by a brush of sweet, deeply-flavored sauce.

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My final beer was Kiuchi Brewery's Hitachino Nest Sweet Stout (Lacto) [$10], which I'd actually never seen before. Think of your classic stout-y flavors of chocolate and roast, but with a sweet, lactic acidity underpinning everything.

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Cream croquettes [$8.00] | bechamel, crab, corn
Croquettes came filled with an amalgam of bechamel, crab, and corn, the sugariness of the kernels augmenting the natural sweetness of the crustacean while the white sauce offered up an enveloping sort of lushness to the fritters. An interesting aspect to this dish was the "mole" on the side, which contained a variety of spices as well as peanut butter.

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Kakiage [$8.00] | rock shrimp, vegetable fritters
I ended with one of the best preparations of tempura I've ever had, basically a nest of shrimp, onions, and carrots all fried together. I really appreciated how the brine of the ebi showed through here, perfectly balanced by the crunch and lightness of the veggies. Great textures too, and the tangy, ginger-y dipping sauce was spot on as well.

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Chef Hiroshi Seki at the end of the night.

Seki presented an elevated version of the izakaya experience, serving home-style, pubby type fare in a comfortable environment that definitely worked for a solo diner such as myself. For the most part, ingredients were deftly highlighted and plain delicious, but with a palpable sense of "authenticity" (and I'm not necessarily a fan of that word) about it all that really speaks to you. No doubt a beacon of the Japanese scene here in DC.

Alma (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

April 22, 2014, 8:35 pm

≫ Next: Kapnos (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Izakaya Seki (Washington, DC)

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Alma Restaurant
952 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213.444.0984
www.alma-la.com
Sun 02/09/2014, 08:35p-12:10a



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Regular readers may recall that I visited Alma not too long ago, toward the end of 2013. Regular readers will also know that I tend not to revisit restaurants all that quickly, so this six week hiatus was indeed brief. The reason? I've become tangentially involved with the USC Asian Pacific Alumni Association (APAA), and helped the group plan their first Young Alumni Council Supper Club outing here. Tonight's experience was a pre-arranged private dinner, one limited to 20 diners and held on a Sunday, a day on which Alma's normally closed.

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Before things got going, Chef Ari Taymor came out to say a few words, as did APAA Board of Directors member (and chief instigator) Michael Lumunsad.

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The evening's menu was Alma's longer, nine-ish-course degustation priced at the nominal $110 a head, plus 9% tax and 20% service, all paid for ahead of time. To drink, we opted for a few bottles from the list: Prosecco (Glera), Sommariva Superiore Brut, Veneto, n.v. [$44]; Albariño, Pedralonga, Rias Baixas, Galicia '11 [$58]; Gamay, Marcel Lapierre, Morgon '12 [$64]; and Late Harvest Chardonnay, Donkey & Goat, El Dorado '11 [$60]. Click for larger versions.

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1: snacks
Surprisingly, our meal did not begin with Alma's signature seaweed-tofu beignets, but rather two items that I'd had during my last meal here. First were slivers of smoked sturgeon with caviar, parsnip purée, and parsnip chip, the smoky, salty interplay of the seafood balanced by the sugariness of the root vegetable. We also had miniature English muffins topped with sea urchin, burrata, and caviar. The key were was how the luxuriousness of the bite melded with the comforting muffin-y base, all while the bit of dill added an overarching, herbaceous note to things.

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2: ember roasted chicken consommé, trout roe & shallot
The first formal course represented a real showcase of chicken, with the jellied consommé commingling with the roe to form a salty, savory, smoky amalgam that led to the in-your-face saltiness and crunch of chicken skin, the entire experience tempered by the comparative levity of an undercurrent of shallot.

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3: broken beets & apple with hazelnut & malt
Alma's dish of broken beets stands as one of the best presentations of the ingredient I've had. The combination of the sweet root vegetable, juicy apple, and crunchy hazelnuts really worked for me, but the most interesting element here was that malt, which had an earthy depth to it that really underscored the entire dish.

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4: pacific jack, hearts of palm, celery & crushed avocado
I'm no fan of celery, but here it really made the dish, adding a bright, slightly astringent jolt to the combo of lush avocado and fish. It's a marriage that may sound a little weird, but it truly came together just beautifully, like Alma at its best.

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5: frozen duck liver with smoked maple, carrot & coffee granola
This was another standout, with the offal-y heft of the liver really increasing in intensity as it melted, when it came together with contrasting notes of sweet, nutty, and bitter, the granola adding a crunchy exclamation point to the course.

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Bread comprised a beer-and-rye variety, one that showed off its smoky, starchy qualities commendably. Even better when taken with the salty cultured butter on the side.

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6: celery root soup with whipped lardo, apple & pine
A potage of celeriac was hefty, hearty, with a comforting quality to it moderated by a tanginess that permeated the entire dish. I appreciated the apples here in particular, which added a sweet, crunchy counterpoint to the soup.

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7: sturgeon with artichoke, bordelaise & coastal herbs
Sturgeon, meanwhile, arrived deftly cooked, and super savory, with the salinity of the fish smartly paired against the milder nuances of artichoke, all while the bordelaise helped tie everything together. One of my dining companions even mentioned that this was the best sturgeon that he'd ever had.

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8: axis deer roasted on the bone, truffled walnut, asian pear & celery root
The evening's final savory course was a pretty impressive looking plate, and one of the strongest preparations of venison that I've had. Cooked properly rare, the meat was elegant on the palate, giving off a slightly smoky, toothsome quality to it, with just the right amount of fat. I was quite enamored with the pickly-bits here too, which added a great counterbalancing crispness and acidity to things, while the walnuts were a pleasant surprise as well.

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9: geranium & meyer lemon
Tonight's intermezzo was delightful, a refreshing burst of tart, lemon-y, mildly herbaceous nuances served alongside the wonderfully floral, enveloping notes of geranium.

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10: strawberries & buckwheat
Dessert proper was a winner as well, the strawberry coming together with the buckwheat in commendable fashion, a mélange of interesting textures and sensations that actually reminded me a bit of a strawberry parfait in the end.

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Mignardises comprised spicy apple pâte de fruit jellies and a superb sage brittle, the aromatics of the herb doing a great job cutting through the sugary, nutty notes of the confection.

Given that it was the first time planning such an event for both Alma and the APAA, I was a touch apprehensive going in to tonight. The dinner wasn't without its share of hiccups, but taking everything into consideration, the event went off relatively smoothly. The kitchen really got to show off its culinary aesthetic, which is what I was hoping to accomplish--to expose some of the diners here to a more contemplative, subtle style of cooking that they may not be accustomed to. All in all, a nice start to the dinner series, and many thanks to the Alma team for helping us pull it off.

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Kapnos (Washington, DC)

April 25, 2014, 7:25 pm

≫ Next: Fifty Seven (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Alma (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

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Kapnos Restaurant
2201 14th St NW, Washington, DC 20009
202.234.5000
www.kapnosdc.com
Fri 04/04/2014, 07:25p-09:20p



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I visited Mike Isabella's Graffiato shortly after it opened in 2011, and since then, the Top Chef alum has been busy growing his profile. In March 2012, he was named "Best New Chef" of the mid-Atlantic region by Food & Wine, and helped open Mexican small plates concept Bandolero with Jonathan Umbel shortly thereafter. That September, Isabella became an "American Culinary Ambassador," and also released his cookbook, Crazy Good Italian: Big Flavors, Small Plates by Mike Isabella. 2013 saw the Chef expand to New Jersey with G Grab and Go and participate in Top Chef: The Cruise before leaving his post at Bandolero and launching Kapnos and its attached G Sandwich. This latest restaurant features cooking influenced by the cuisine of Northern Greece, and represents a bit of a return to the type of food he was doing during his days at Zaytinya. Joining Isabella here are Chef de Cuisine George Pagonis, GM Nicholas Pagonis, as well as Bandolero/Graffiato alums James Horn (Wine & Service Director) and Taha Ismail (Beverage Director).

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Kapnos' menu features a variety of mezze (small plates, basically), with particular attention paid to items coming off of the restaurant's multiple wood-fired grills, including whole animal carvings. There are also tasting menu options at $65 and $85, the latter of which I opted for this evening. Click for larger versions.

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To drink, think cocktails from Taha Ismail, some beers, and a fairly lengthy wine list with an appropriately large selection of Greek varietals. Click for larger versions.

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Kapnos was penned by the Bethesda-based firm Streetsense (they also worked on The Red Hen), though I didn't get to admire much of the decor, as I chose to take a seat at the kitchen bar.

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prince of persia [$13.00] | monkey shoulder scotch, papaya shrub, cardamaro, pimento bitters
Cocktails were definitely called for tonight, and my first was a hit with its combination of sweet 'n' spicy flavors over a well-tempered base of whiskey, finished with an almost tingling sensation in the back of the throat.

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1a: taramosalata | carp roe, caviar, cauliflower
1b: melitzanosalata | smoky eggplant, roasted peppers, walnuts, feta
1c: tyrokafteri | feta, smoked manori cheese, grains of paradise
My first course was a trio of dips, served with a super fluffy, soft flatbread that was among the best I've had. Going back to front, we have the taramosalata, which showed off a wonderful brininess moderated by the bits of chive on top. The melitzanosalata, meanwhile, had a great combo of smoke and sweetness, augmented by the salty feta and pricks of mintiness. Finally, the tyrokafteri I liked too, with its lactic tang, creamy-yet-gritty consistency, and bright bits of greenery on top. Overall, a delicious way to kick things off.

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2: crudité | green tomato, kohlrabi, lemon, sesame
Along with the spreads came some crudités, also among the best I've had, a blend of smoky, nutty, and tart flavors over some marvelously crisp textures, accented by just the right amount of citrus.

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3: dolmades | grape leaves, pinenuts, grapes, rutabaga puree
I'm not a fan of dolmades in general, but Kapnos' were surely among the stronger preparations that I've tried, dense, tightly-packed nuggets of nutty, ricey, sweet nuances encased in richly-flavored leaves. My favorite element here was the use of grape, which added some delightfully juicy pops of fruitiness to the fray.

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rye lemonade [$12.00] | rye, allspice dram, grapefruit, lemon, sage
I made sure to try some of Kapnos' kegged lemonades, and the version featuring rye came recommended by my server. It fit the bill nicely, giving off a balanced, citrusy quality over a base of the booze, the sage adding a lovely aromatic component to things.

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4: lamb tartare | tomato, eggplant, mizithra croquette
The tartar was likened to a deconstructed moussaka, and was really quite fetching, giving off a subtle combination of savory, spicy flavors that paired great with the crunchy chip, all while cubes of mizithra cheese gave the dish yet another delectable dimension.

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5: swordfish | pea harissa, red onion, radish
Swordfish was the lone off-menu item on the tasting, and was a surefire winner as well. It was one of the juiciest preparations I've had, a dense fish just loaded with flavors of brine, savor, and char. I was a big fan of the veggies here too, not to mention that harissa, which really tied it all together.

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6: charred octopus | green harissa, eggplant
Octopus is ostensibly one of the Chef's favorite things to cook with, and indeed the ingredient was done justice tonight. Just think super tender, and beautifully charred, a perfectly on point tentacle smartly evened out by the cooling sauce.

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smile like a doughnut (bottled) [$13.00] | beefeater 24 gin, idoniko brandy, house made grapefruit tonic
My final cocktail was akin to a bottled gin & tonic, a delightfully bright, herby, citrusy concoction with flavors that melded seamlessly.

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7: spiced baby goat | grilled leeks, zucchini, rutabaga
At this point, we moved on into the whole animal preparations, and Kapnos' goat really hit the mark, giving me boatloads of earthy, satisfying flavors made even better by the multitude of crispy, caramelized bits. Some lovely counterpoints from the chili paste and yogurt, too.

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8: suckling pig | orzo, dill, orange
The suckling pig made a strong case for itself too, arriving decadently flavored and superbly spiced, accented by the crunchy bits of fried skin while the combination of orzo and dill helped subdue the entire experience. Yum.

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9: baklava | almonds, dry apricot, lime, pistachio, rosewater gelato
muscat, samos, "anthemis," greece, 2006
I was already burstingly full by this point, but dessert was a must. The baklava was a fairly traditional version, rich and flaky, but with a strong stone fruit character and an excellent accompaniment in the form of that rosewater ice cream.

I enjoyed my time at Graffiato, so I expected to have a good meal here, but the experience managed to exceed my expectations. The food reminds me of what the Chef was doing back at Zaytinya, but with more bravado, less restraint. It's almost like the type of cooking Isabella would've done at the old restaurant had he not been under José's wing. Overall, Kapnos is more than a fitting follow-up to Graffiato. As for what's next, the Chef is showing no sign of slowing down. He just opened another location of his G sandwich shop at Nats Ballpark, which is to be followed by Kapnos Tavern in Arlington. Next is another Graffiato down in Richmond, and after that, who knows.

Fifty Seven (Los Angeles, CA)

April 28, 2014, 8:10 pm

≫ Next: Menu MBK (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Kapnos (Washington, DC)

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Fifty Seven Restaurant
712 S Santa Fe Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.816.8157
www.fiftysevenla.com
Fri 04/11/2014, 08:10p-12:00a



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One of the most highly anticipated, and significant openings this year is Fifty Seven, an Arts District space situated in the old Heinz '57 loading dock, right next to Bread Lounge and just a stone's throw from Bestia. A project of Beau Laughlin's Cardiff Giant, the restaurant bowed on March 27th, and features a revolving roster of chefs from across the country, each showcasing his or her menu for a season. Kicking things off is Chef-in-Residence David Nayfeld, who was tasked with laying the foundation for the people and processes that'll hopefully be used to execute the concepts of all future chefs.

About the Chef: The 30-year-old Chef was raised in Oakland, CA, the son of Jewish immigrants who had fled their native Belarus. He started off in the biz as a teenager, washing dishes at a Greek eatery and working an organic produce stand. His first real job came in 2000 at the Harbor Bay Club in Alameda, and after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in 2002, Nayfeld took on a position at Max's Bistro & Bar in Fresno. The following year, he became a stagiaire at Nobu in New York, and in 2004, secured a line cook position at Aqua in San Francisco. He stayed there for two years before transitioning to Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas. This was followed in 2007 by a stint at VOX Wine Lounge in Henderson, Nevada, as well as a year at Cru in New York starting in '09.

In 2010, Nayfeld made the big move to Daniel Humm's Eleven Madison Park, where he served as senior sous for three years, during which time the restaurant became one of the most recognized in the world, garnering three Michelin stars, six Beard awards, and a rare four-star review from the New York Times. He left EMP in 2013 and spent six months touring Europe, staging with Philippe Rochat (Philippe Rochat at L'Hôtel de Ville in Crissier, Switzerland), Albert and Ferran Adria (Tickets & 41 Degrees in Barcelona), Mauro Colagreco (Mirazur in Menton, France), David Toutain (l'Agapé Substance in Paris), Clare Smyth (Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at Hospital Road in London), Gregory Merchand (Frenchie in Paris) and chocolatier Jacques Genin (Jacques Genin in Paris). After this grand excursion, Nayfeld relocated to Los Angeles in search of a project before starting work on Fifty Seven.

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The menu at Fifty Seven lists a number of à la carte, bar-type dishes on the left, joined by a three-course prix fixe option on the right at $48 (though all the plates are available separately as well). From what I understand, it's the stuff on the right that'll be changing with each chef. Click for a larger version.

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To drink, you'll find a fairly formidable California-centric wine list as well as seasonally-changing cocktails by bartender Jeronimo Medina, who comes to Fifty Seven following stints at The Foundry and Las Perlas. There were no beers listed, but I'm told they're coming. Click for larger versions.

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Kicking things off were Gruyère gougères, fluffy, soft, cheesy little bites that whetted the appetite, though they've could've stood to be warmer.

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3 Sheets [$13.00] | Belvedere Vodka, Chamomile Grappa, Lemongrass, White Balsamic, Lemon, Honey
Cocktails were a must of course, and we began with this vodka-based concoction. It was a fantastic use of the oft beleaguered base spirit, a mysterious, multifaceted drink that conveyed overlapping, contrasting shades of savory, herbaceous, tart, and tangy all rolled into one.

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Rusty Beam [$15.00] | El Jimador Anejo, Pierde Almas Mezcal, Cinnamon Tincture, Chocolate Chili & Orange Bitters
This next cocktail, on the other hand, was much boozier, with the smoky, woody essence of the mezcal/tequila combo working in tandem with the spicy-sweet nuances in the drink, the whole amalgam underpinned by a persistent bitterness.

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One of my dining companions ordered up an Old Fashioned as a gauge of the bar, and the cocktail delivered did not disappoint, offering up an utterly classic, undoubtedly balanced presentation of bittersweet, boozy, and citric flavors that was spot on. Unfortunately, when it came time for a second round, the bar seemed to falter, sending out an almost completely different drink that was far sweeter, heavy-handed, and garnished with a cherry (though they did end up remaking the drink properly).

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Deviled Eggs [$8.00] | Celery Relish
Being the egg enthusiast that I am, these beauties were a must-order, blending lush egg, tangy mustard, astringent celery, and savory mushroom duxelles in an elevated package.

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La Tur [$12.00] | Radicchio, Market Apple
A tri-milk cheese from Piemonte, La Tur was put to great use here, iSi-aerated to an ethereal consistency and served with shards of radicchio, apple, and basil. The elements combined to form an almost caprese-like character, the commixture of sweet, bitter, and herb-y flavors a superb complement to the lactic tang of the cheese.

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Veal Liver [$13.00] | Onion Jam, Nebbiolo Sweet & Sour
A stout cylinder of veal liver was delightful, arriving in the form of a finespun, silky smooth mousse, its earthy, yet restrained relish perked up by the sweet onion jam and Nebbiolo gel. Fantastic when taken with the included bread. It might not be foie gras, but it gets awfully close.

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Pickled Garden [$12.00] | Cucumber, Carrot, Squash, Cauliflower, Baby Beets, Red Miso
I'm a big, big fan of pickled things, and was definitely a fan of this next course, which is like what would happen if someone went and pickled an entire gargouillou. It was a real celebration of acidity, crunch, and tang, a bevy of disparate ingredients all tied together by the earthy depth of that akamiso.

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Bratwurst [$16.00] | Salsa Criolla, Mustard, Pretzel
I had to try the Chef's take on bratwurst given my penchant for tubed meat. It was easily the most elegant version of the sausage I've had, giving up comparatively light, graceful flavors duly complemented by the tangy salsa. Delicious when taken with the salty, buttery pretzel on the side and a dab of spicy mustard.

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Contraband [$14.00] | Old Grandad Bourbon, Amontillado Contrabandista, Averna Amaro, Ginger, Lemon, Pecan Bitters
Our next round of cocktails got started with this full-flavored preparation, which had a savory, almost curry-esque profile to it that I found quite fascinating, especially when combined with the subtly oxidative quality of the amontillado.

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El Sanguinello [$15.00] | Jalapeño Infused Pierde Almas Mezcal, Agave, Averna Amaro, Blood Orange, Lemon, Sal de Gusano
This robustly-colored cocktail, meanwhile, brought us a real jolt of smoky, spicy flavors joined by counterbalancing nuances of citrus that made this one eminently balanced and easy-going with the food.

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Diver Scallop [$18.00] | Wild Rice, Fennel, Feta
Scallops arrived perfectly cooked, supple yet superbly seared and caramelized, their softly saline flavors complemented by the opposing forces of feta and fennel while the crisped rice added a fantastic textural component to the fray. However, a couple of the elements didn't seem quite as necessary, and there was just a bit too much going on here as a result.

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Pappardelle [$16.00] | Oxtail, Morel, English Pea
Pappardelle was homey and comforting, yet somehow refined, a buttery sort of pasta that deftly balanced the richness of the meat and mushroom against the brightness of pea. Egg was used here for the noodles (as is traditionally done), resulting in pasta that has a softer consistency than you might expect.

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Brassica [$18.00] | Roasted Garlic, Lemon, Parmesan
Moving on into the prix fixe portion of our meal now, I'm a huge proponent of Brassica, and this was a real showcase of the genus, a mélange of bright, bitter flavors and crisp, invigorating textures brought together by the combo of salty Parm and zesty, overarching citrus. Ostensibly a play on the classic Caesar.

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Jerusalem Artichoke [$13.00] | Mole, Pepita, Mexican Crema
Up next was one of the strongest preparations of sunchoke I've had. Texturally, I loved the root vegetable's meaty, snappy crunchy while its sweetness was augmented by the cinnamon-y mole, the crema adding a tangy counterbalance to things. Fantastic pickled egg here, too.

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Vegetable à la Grecque [$14.00] | Asparagus, Cauliflower, Hen of the Woods
Veggies done in the Greek style were wonderfully piquant, a beautiful composition of differing tastes and textures brought together by a common, underlying acidity. I particularly enjoyed the earthy mushrooms, as well as those gorgeous dry-seared spears of asparagus. A real display of the Chef's facility with vegetables.

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Bread was subtly spicy, and came with disk of sweet, creamy butter that really fit the bill.

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Spanish Crown [$12.00] | Kappa Pisco, Luxardo, Grapefruit, Lime, Angostura Bitters
Our final cocktail was a winner as well, a creamy, silky beverage that balanced contrasting notes of tartness and astringency over a hefty base of pisco.

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John Dory [$29.00] | Avocado, Grapefruit, Dungeness Crab
The first main of the night brought out John Dory, and it managed to be one of the best presentations of the fish I'd tasted. Think firm, flaky, and with a refined savoriness, amplified by the wondrously sweet brine of the included crab while the greenery and avocado gave up a countervailing complexity.

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Lamb [$22.00] | Black Garlic, Bok Choy, Meyer Lemon
Lamb was up next, and done properly rare, its rich, unabashedly ovine flavors enhanced by the zing of black garlic while bok choy offered up a wonderfully bright, bitter counterpoint. I was a fan of the carrots, too, but the Meyer lemon didn't seem strictly necessary.

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Heritage Pork [$24.00] | Spätzle, Mustard, Beet, Apple
Our final savory was a play on the classic combo of pork and apple, and quite simply the largest meat "lollipop" that we'd ever encountered. The meat was cooked suitably rare, its surprisingly delicate flavors heightened by the use of mustard, while the veggies did their job in moderating the heft of the pork. Some more char, more sear would've been nice, though.

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Pineapple [$12.00] | Crème Fraîche, Coriander
Getting into the sweet stuff now, the pineapple dessert came out light and fruity, with a classic tartness to it that was dutifully paired with a caramel-y crunch and the herby zing of coriander.

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Chocolate [$12.00] | Valencia Orange, Earl Grey, Salted Almond Brittle
The classic combo of chocolate and orange was presented here in the form of a dark chocolate ganache topped with a layer of Valencia gelée, an effective pairing made even better by the floral, tea-like essence of Earl Grey. That salted almond brittle ice cream was much appreciated as well, adding some further lushness to the mix.

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Meyer Lemon [$12.00] | Ricotta, Parmesan Sablé, Basil
My favorite of the desserts was this Meyer lemon cake of sorts, which really played the tartness of the citrus beautifully against the richness of ricotta, all while the crumbles provided a savory bent to the dish. Lovely use of basil, too.

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Strawberry [$12.00] | Olive Oil, Tarragon, Sour Cream
Lastly, strawberries were smartly paired with olive oil and tarragon, the tart sweetness of the fruit an effective match for the savory, herbaceous tastes at play. Great incorporation of the cake too as a moderating element.

Fifty Seven's a welcomed, important addition to the scene here in LA. Nayfeld brings a thoughtful, progressive approach in his food, resulting in plates that are unique, polished, yet at the same time satisfying. I would really like to see a longer, tasting menu format implemented though (it would suit the cuisine much better), but length notwithstanding, it's some of the most promising cooking I've had in a while. But perhaps more crucially, the restaurant could be a key step in the development of Los Angeles from a culinary perspective, and I'm very curious to see how this all evolves and plays out, to see how permanent the Chef's (and by extension, Fifty Seven's) mark here will be. Nayfeld should be serving his menu until the July/August timeframe, so you still have plenty of time to check things out.

Menu MBK (Washington, DC)

May 2, 2014, 6:15 pm

≫ Next: Beer Belly (Los Angeles, CA)

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Menu MBK: Kitchen
405 8th St NW, Washington, DC 20004
202.347.7491
www.menumbk.com
Sat 04/05/2014, 06:15p-08:20p



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One of the more notable DC openings of late is Penn Quarter's Menu MBK, a multi-level production from Chef/Owner Frederik De Pue. The space comprises a Market on the ground floor stocked with various gourmet products as well as food and drink to-go. Meanwhile, the third and fourth floors are home to BistroBar, a casual bistro concept, while the second level Kitchen features a six-seater counter serving a monthly-changing prix fixe menu.

About the Chef: Born in 1977 in Ghent, Belgium, Frederik De Pue started his culinary training at age 15 at the Hotel School Ter Duinen, graduating five years later with a good number of stages under his belt. Following, he went to work for Alain Ducasse at Le Louis XV in Monte Carlo, then transitioned to Alain Chapel in Lyon, becoming sous chef by age 21. A year later, in 1998, he moved back to Brussels, landing at Yves Mattagne's Sea Grill, where he stayed for three years. De Pue came to Washington in 2001 as Executive Chef for the ambassador of the European Commission Delegation, and during that five year stint, cooked for a number of heavyweights in the diplomatic arena. Interestingly, in 2002, he opened a restaurant and waffle company out in Lima, Peru, where his former wife was from (the business was sold a couple years later).

The Chef left his job with the ambassador and launched 42° Catering in 2007, then started consulting at a number of places in the area, including shuttered downtown wine bar The Reserve. It was there where he met Miles Gray in 2009, and the two collaborated on Smith Commons, which opened the following year. De Pue eventually struck out on his own, and debuted Table in January 2013 in DC's Shaw neighborhood. This was followed by seafooder Azur in the Penn Quarter, but the place quickly faltered, and ended up closing within six months. Not one to give up on the space (which also held José Andrés's Cafe Atlantico, Minibar, and America Eats Tavern), De Pue revamped the building at turned it into Menu MBK, which launched in January.

Day-to-day operations, meanwhile, are headed by 29-year-old Chef de Cuisine Keith Cabot, a Virginia native who spent time early on at The Barn at Blackberry Farm in Walland, Tennessee. He also cooked for Thomas Keller for four years, mostly at Ad Hoc but also at Bouchon in Yountville. In DC, Cabot notably worked at Johnny Spero's place Suna, and most recently served as sous chef at Table.

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The view from Menu's kitchen counter.

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MBK's menu for April was largely the work of Chef Cabot, featuring ingredients from his home state of Virginia. The five-courser was priced at $65 a head, with beverage pairings tacking on an additional $45. Click for a larger version.

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1: Rappahannock Oysters | lindera farms elder flower vinegar, chicharrones, blossom
Virginia Sparkling Wine, Thibaut-Jannison 'Virginia Fizz', Monticello, VA NV
Oyster was presented three ways--raw, smoked, foam--and arrived with elderflower sorbet and pansy flower. It was a real celebration of Rappahannock, a display of multifaceted brine all bound together by the tangy mignonette-esque vinegar. Lovely hits of salt and crunch from the fried skin, too, and a natural pairing to the creamy, citrus-tinged bubbly that came along.

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2: Ham & Cheese Biscuit | biscuit crumble, buttermilk curd, piquillo peppers
Rose, Azur, Napa Valley, California
Local 18-month aged ham set the stage for a deep-fried, pimento cheese-wrapped piquillo, a showcase of earthy, salty ham, lush cheese, and tangy pepper against jammy bursts of sweetness. Homey yet elegant at the same time. Great crunch from the bacon bits, too.

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3: Smoked Peanut | chicken backs, pickled celery
Belgian Abbey Ale, St Bernardus 'Pater 6', Belgium
A reimagined peanut soup of sorts really hit the spot, bringing a beer-peanut sauce, boiled peanut, and roasted chicken backs together in ingenious fashion. The bird itself I found super moist and super savory, a fitting foil to the rhubarb sweetness and nutty flavors at play. Excellent use of celery as well for its jolts of astringency, and I liked the beer pairing for this one, too.

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CdC Keith Cabot and Sous Chef Alex in a rare teaching moment.

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Now five courses is a little light, so I made sure to add on a couple plates from the BistroBar menu. Click for larger versions.

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Supplement: Cured Fluke [$14.00] | pickled potatoes, smoked crème fraiche, charred onions
The first supplement was a presentation of cured fluke, sort of a take on potato salad with its salt and sugar cured fish, Sichuan pepper, fennel, citrus zest, micro wasabi, and red wine vinegar. The course really did recall the traditional dish, playing the tangy taters against the smoky crème fraiche commendably over a base of the fluke, all while the vinegar imparted a lovely acidity to things. Very cool.

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4: Chapel Hill Farm Veal | bone marrow sauce, kohlrabi, pea emulsion
Pinotage, Barista, South Africa
The veal, meanwhile, was something else, easily the most flavorful presentation of the ingredient that I'd ever tasted. It was of the Randall Lineback heritage breed, the meat coming out fairly lean, yet immensely satisfying and with a great char, taken up another notch by the marrow sauce. Peas provided a wonderful counterpoint to the beef here, and I was a fan of the kohlrabi's crunch and bitterness as well.

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Supplement: "Surf & Turf" [$10.00] | nettle crisp, rabbit sausage, squid ink pasta
My second supplementary course gave me Amish coop rabbit boudin with fried nettle and nettle puree. The sausage itself I found savory, yet herby and elegant, melding well with the pasta while the nettles provided a saline, piquant counterbalance to everything. I would've liked a grittier, more substantial texture on that tubed meat, though.

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5: Shoo Fly Pie | molasses, vanilla panna cotta, shortbread
Banyuls, M. Chapoutier, Rhone Valley, France
The sole dessert was a reimagined shoofly pie bringing together molasses sorbet, pie crumble, chantilly mousse, rum raisin compote, and a brown sugar sponge. Now, I'd never had the original version of the dessert before, so I didn't really have a basis for comparison. However, what was presented here worked, with the super dark, sugary, sticky smack of the molasses forming the basis to the dish, the other elements imparting different thrusts and nuances that somehow came together cohesively.

I wasn't sure what to expect coming in here, but the meal really exceeded expectations. There's a real sense of fun and modernity to the cooking here, and the flavors all tended to come together in delicious fashion, but with just the right amount of cleverness and whimsy thrown into the mix. It's a neat little concept, and the menu changes monthly here, so I'm actually quite looking forward to what they have up their sleeves coming up. I just wish I could experience the kitchen's cooking in a longer format (i.e. more than five courses).

Beer Belly (Los Angeles, CA)

May 5, 2014, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Rose's Luxury (Washington, DC)

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Beer Belly Restaurant
532 S Western Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90020
213.387.2337
www.beerbellyla.com
Sun 03/23/2014, 07:00p-09:35p



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If you're a fan of beer, then I'm sure you've heard about Beer Belly, the K-Town brew bar from longtime aficionado Jimmy Han and wife Yume. I'd actually been here before, but this was my first time doing a proper dinner. The place opened back in May 2011, but had been in work ever since 2008, when Jimmy dreamt up the idea after the economic downturn took a bite out of his commercial real estate flow. Business was solid from the get go, but really took off when the restaurant was featured on an episode of Food Network's Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives last March. Joining the Hans here are Director of Marketing Paul Choi, Beer Manager-slash-comedian Ric Syberg, and of course, Executive Chef Wes Lieberher.

About the Chef: Wesley Lieberher was born in Philadelphia, and spent his formative years far more interested in music than cooking. However, he did work in restaurants to get by, and cemented his foundation at Robert Rosato's Scoogi's Classic Italian in the Philly suburb of Flourtown. He cooked there for five years, making his way around the various stations, and was eventually forced to give up music due to a bout with tinnitus. In 2006, Lieberher moved to Center City's new Vintage Wine Bar, starting on the line before becoming Sous and eventually Executive Chef after three years. He would stay there until early 2011, when he relocated to Los Angeles to cater a wedding and start a sausage business called Grindhaus, partnering with ex-Vintage manager DeJuan Black, former Marathon manager Tom Lambiase, and Philly-area chef Trevor Rocco. They did house-made specialty sausages, and also launched a food truck, but the business collapsed by December that year. It was at the sausage shop where Jimmy first met the Chef; Lieberher was tapped to create a special sausage for Beer Belly, but ended up taking over the kitchen completely when the restaurant's regular team of cooks bailed.

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Beer Belly occupies the former home of Yoo Won Restaurant/Cafe Yesterday, and was revamped by the LA-based firm MAKE Architecture, which won an AIA Restaurant Design Award for the wood-centric design in 2013. Meanwhile, murals are by local artist Yoshi Takahashi.

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The menu at Beer Belly features "crafty" takes on bar food from Chef Lieberher, and tonight he had a some specials available featuring local produce from Community Service Unlimited's Community Gardens, a collection of small urban farms spread across South Los Angeles. Equally as important, though is the beverage selection here, which features a dozen beers on draft and more by the can or bottle, along with some interesting sodas and a few requisite wines. There's also a One Night Stand tap takeover series that started in late 2012, and Beer Belly has even gone as far as to make their own beer, collaborating with The Bruery for their 2nd anniversary ale FUBRue, a jujube, black sesame, and Azuki red bean sour. Click for larger versions.

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Our first beer was the Beauregarde, The Bruery [$30], an oak-aged sour blonde ale with blueberries. It was my first time having a blueberry beer, and did not disappoint, with aromas of the fruit on the nose leading to tart, puckering, and woody qualities on the palate, the berry coming through and lingering toward the back end. Very nice.

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Avocado & Crab Salad [$10.00] | Arugula, Crab, Ruby Red Grapefruit, Mint, Radish, Pecan
We began with a dish from the CSU menu that was far lighter than you'd expect from Beer Belly. The salty sweetness of the crab was vibrantly conveyed here, accented by the tartness of grapefruit while a whisper of spice elevated the dish further. However, the avocado veered toward underripe, and lacked the lushness that I was hoping for.

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Bacon Fat Fries [$7.00] | Bacon Fat, Bacon Bits, Arugula, Chile Morita, Maple Vinaigrette
Fries were done in bacon fat, and arrived wonderfully crisp and thoroughly enjoyable on their own. However, I much appreciated the saltiness of the bacon bits, and the peppery arugula was an excellent counterpoint as well. The paired maple condiment, though, was a bit polarizing at our table.

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Fried Egg & Grilled Asparagus [$8.00] | Dill, Garlic, Parmesan Cream
Another CSU selection brought us a great rendition of asparagus, the bright, bitter veggie working flawlessly against the rich, cheesy sauce while the egg added even more luxuriousness to the mix.

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Pork Belly Chips [$7.00] | Deep Fried Pork Belly, Smoked Salt, Sweet Onion Sugar, Tabasco Aioli
Fried pork belly was another standout, a beautiful balance of lean and fat that came out utterly crunchy and loaded with piggy goodness. Tasty alone, and also very appealing with that bracingly tangy aioli.

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Our next beer was the 2013 Fred from the Wood, Hair of the Dog [$22], a barleywine aged in American oak for six months. I found it a shining example of the style, a lovely balance of roasty malt, oak, and sugary maple/caramel notes, set off by just a touch of hop bitterness and spice. Delicious.

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Beer Belly Brussels [$7.00] | Local Brussels Sprouts, Apples, Onions, Pancetta
Brussels were one of the more intriguing presentations I'd had, conveying a sweet, almost autumnal spice against the inherent bitterness of the vegetable.

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Beer & Chipotle Braised Short Rib [$15.00] | Short Rib Braised in Beer and Chipotle Peppers, Cheddar Puff Pastry, Short Rib Jus
An old school favorite of Beer Belly's was one of my favs too, the properly tender chunks of meat giving up some deep, dark flavors that definitely satisfied. When taken in concert with the included cilantro, I swear I tasted whispers of Chinese beef rolls. The puff pastry worked as a great pairing to the short rib as well, and the sriracha on the side provided a yummy bit of heat to round things out.

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Buttermilk Fried Chicken [$9.00] | House-Brined Chicken Breast Strips, Roasted Corn Aioli
Our final savory was the fried chicken, which came out suitably tender and juicy for breast, with an herb-y, bitter/briny character that made sense with the paired condiment.

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To go with dessert, we opted for a bottle of the Imperial Eclipse Stout (Java Coffee), Fifty Fifty [$33]. It was pretty awesome, one of the best stouts I've had in recent memory, a blend of 300-day aged Elijah Craig 12 Year Eclipse, Totality Stout, and French Roast Cold Toddy coffee from the Reno-based Wood-Fire Roasted Coffee Company. Think classic stout aromas on the nose, but interlaced with coffee, and a taste that was wonderfully malty, roasty, and bourbon-tinged, with a subtle layer of java over the top.

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Twinkie [$5.00] | Battered and fried, served w/ Ice Cream, Strawberry Puree, Whipped Cream
Desserts at Beer Belly are solely of the deep-fried variety, and according to our server, the one to get is the Twinkie version. She was right on, as the frying seemed to enhance the snack cake's inherent goodness, playing its sweet, slightly savory qualities against the tartness of the berry purée.

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Oatmeal Cream Pie [$5.00] | Battered and fried, served w/ Ice Cream, Strawberry Puree, Whipped Cream
The Oatmeal Cream Pie was tasty too, though also the least unique I'd say, conveying a sort of oatmeal cookie character to it that worked well with the paired vanilla ice cream.

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Oreos (Regular) [$5.00] | Battered and fried, served w/ Ice Cream, Nutella, Strawberry Puree, Whipped Cream
Oreos also made a strong showing, the classic flavors of the cookie going well with the Nutella.

It's too bad that it's taken me this long to do a proper write-up on Beer Belly, because I quite enjoyed my time here. Lieberher really does elevate the food above common pub grub. It's comforting, satisfying fare that nonetheless incorporates some unexpected twists, and just begs to be paired with beer. And speaking of beer, the place's selection of top-notch, oft hard-to-find brews is worthwhile as well--all three bottles we had tonight were superb. Definitely a destination for all you beer lovers out there.

Rose's Luxury (Washington, DC)

May 8, 2014, 6:20 pm

≫ Next: b.o.s. (Los Angeles, CA)

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Roses Luxury Restaurant
717 8th St SE, Washington, DC 20003
202.580.8889
www.rosesluxury.com
Mon 04/07/2014, 06:20p-09:10p



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Opened at the start of October 2013, Rose's Luxury is the restaurant of the moment here in DC, a Barracks Row place named after the grandmother of Chef/Owner Aaron Silverman. I was first turned on to Rose's by Johnny Spero during my meal at Minibar last year. He was convinced that it'd be the next big thing around these parts, and by golly was he ever right.

About the Chef: A local boy, Silverman grew up in Rockville, though not in an environment that was particularly culinarily focused. After graduating from Thomas S. Wootton high, he attended Boston's Northeastern University, where he studied political science as well as accounting. However, he was far from happy, and as a result, met up with family friend Jonathan Krinn during his 2002-2003 winter break and started cooking at Krinn's 2941 in Falls Church. Inspired, Silverman graduated early and enrolled at the L'Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, continuing to work at 2941 the whole time.

He would eventually move to New York in 2006, first landing a gig at the Italian-inflected Jovia before quickly transitioning to Momofuku Noodle Bar right before David Chang started growing his empire. He stayed until 2008, then jumped to Marco Canora's Insieme, and later to George Mendes' Aldea. In 2011, Silverman grew tired of the NYC scene, and thus relocated down south to Charleston, securing employment at Sean Brock's acclaimed McCrady's. He left a year later and moved back to DC, hosting a series of pop-ups before announcing Rose's Luxury in October 2012. The restaurant bowed a year later, almost exactly a decade after the Chef first started cooking professionally.

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I was seated at the eight-person kitchen counter bar, which straddles the thin space between the front and back rooms of the restaurant.

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The menu here at Rose's Luxury reflects Chef Silverman's eclectic leanings and lists a number of small plates meant for sharing, as well as a couple larger family style dishes at the end (though originally, the menu was conceived as a $46 prix fixe sort of affair). Click for a larger version.

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Meanwhile, to imbibe, you'd be remiss if you didn't try the cocktail by bartender Bobbi Kelly. And if that's not your thing, you'll find a nice selection of beers and wines too. Click for larger versions.

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Housemade potato bread came out hot and hearty, accompanied by chive-bacon butter. Taken together, the whole amalgam recalled baked potato. Neat.

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Thai Basil Infused Reposado Tequila, Dry Vermouth, Ginger Beer [$13.00]
I'd heard great things about Rose's cocktails, so I made sure to try a few. This first one really met the mark, with its ginger-y undertones and balance of boozy and herbaceous flavors making for a delicious and refreshing drink.

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Chicken-Fried Oysters w/ Raw Oyster Tzatziki [$3.00/each]
The tiniest fried oysters I'd ever had came with dill oil and dill oil-infused onion. Think crunchy and satisfying, with a lingering dill zing to even out the creamy tzatziki. It'd be very easy to keep popping these guys.

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Kusshi Oysters, Horseradish & Tomato Vinegar Granita [$3.00/each]
Raw oysters, meanwhile, conveyed a crisp, lingering brine, pairing beautiful with the peppery, cocktail sauce-esque granita.

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Vietnamese Paté, Peanuts, Herbs & Garlic Bread
The kitchen then sent out an amuse bouche version of its build-your-own banh mi course. It really was a nice rendition of the sandwich, with the earthy, deep flavor of the paté going great with the bright, acidic pickled veggies. The soft bread was a welcomed change of pace from the mouth-scratchingly hard versions you get at Lee's, too.

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Pork Sausage, Habanero & Lychee Salad [$13.00]
One of Rose's Luxury's most well-known courses was also my favorite of the evening. I loved the bright, juicy sweetness of the lychee against that savory, gritty pork, all while a coconut-like sweetness helped tie it all together. Fantastic hits of crunch and nuttiness from the peanuts as well. This is the one to get.

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Ricotta-Stuffed "Gnocchi", Roasted Maiitakes, Pecorino [$13.00]
Stuffed pasta was appropriately rich, creamy, and lush, the deep flavors of the mushrooms the star of the show here, evened out by the lightness of the mint sprinkled on top.

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Gin, Sweet Vermouth, Fig Balsamic [$12.00]
My next cocktail was much boozier, with a wonderful sweetness from the balsamic balancing out the botanical character of the gin, the entire cocktail underpinned by a bitter backbone. Very good.

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Pickle-Brined Fried Chicken, Honey & Benne Seed [$13.00]
Fried chicken arrived suitably hot and crispy, its juicy nature joined by a palpable sweetness that just begged for a dash of the included Crystal hot sauce. The benne seeds were interesting, adding an extra, unexpected dimension to the course.

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Uni Scrambled Eggs, Crispy Potatoes, Uni Hollandaise [$18.00]
Classic breakfast flavors were presented here in a manner that satisfied in the basest possible way, a mishmash of sweet, eggy, salty flavors highlighted by the lush brine of sea urchin while the chive added a modicum of levity to things. If anything, I would've wanted even more of that uni.

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Rye, Rose Water, Sweet Vermouth [$12.00]
My final cocktail kept things going strong, its wonderfully floral nose leading to a particular sweetness on the palate that blended seamlessly with the whiskey. Very nice.

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Bone Marrow Hash w/ Golden Raisin-Bone Marrow Vinaigrette [$13.00]
Breakfast flavors made another appearance here in this version of the classic hash. Peppers and potatoes formed a foil to the slick, slippery marrow here, countering its heft effectively, though texturally, I wish there would've been more.

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Smoked Brisket, Horseradish & Slaw [$13.00]
I was quite full by this point, so I got an off-menu sandwich version of the brisket plate, hold the bread. It managed to be one of the best briskets I've had, with a great smoky, beefy taste augmented by the included jus, the horseradish adding just enough nose-burning heat. I loved the slaw too, which imparted a perfect touch of acidity and crunch. Yum.

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I went with a beer to pair with the brisket, specifically the Stillwater Stateside Saison, Baltimore, MD [$8]. It was rather nice, with a fruity, malty quality to go along with its refreshing yeasty character.

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Dessert was complementary, and was a poached pear with everything but the pear, bringing together poached pear liquid, mascarpone, citrus granita, and crumbles. It was a fitting close to the meal, with its spicy, fruity flavors balancing out the mascarpone while the crumbles added a great textural element to the course.

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Shards of delightfully nutty, crunchy brittle came with the bill.

There's been a lot of hype surrounding Rose's Luxury, but it's easy to see why. The food's got a modernity to it, but is also whimsical, interesting, unexpected at times, and damn tasty, and the whole menu has a "cheffy" sort of vibe to it that plays well with the restaurant's boisterous, convivial atmosphere. I can see Rose's as a template for a new paradigm in DC dining--casual and hip, but with a fine dining edge--and I gather that the place is well on its way to achieving iconic status.

b.o.s. (Los Angeles, CA)

May 11, 2014, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Seasonal Pantry (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Rose's Luxury (Washington, DC)

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bos Restaurant
424 E 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.700.7834
www.bos-la.com
Tue 03/25/2014, 07:30p-10:30p



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Clik here to view. One of the more interesting Downtown debuts of last year was b.o.s. (pronounced "boss"), which bowed at the end of October. The place is named after the Latin word bos, which translates to cow or ox, and is the work of Chef David Bartnes and Jun Isogai, the former GM at the nearby Men Oh Tokushima ramen who was inspired by the beef-centric eateries he found in Japan. As the name implies, the restaurant focuses squarely on bovine-derived proteins, serving up "nose to tail" dishes in roughly pan-Asian fashion.

About the Chef: Bartnes was born in Oregon, but left the US at age three, growing up in both Asia and Europe thanks to his Chinese/Japanese/Korean mother and German stepfather. He fell into cooking in the late 1990's whilst living in the UK, and subsequently enrolled at the Le Cordon Bleu, graduating in 1999. Bartnes then spent a year as a tournant at the Hilton in Shanghai, working his way around the various departments at the property.

In 2000, he moved to Phuket, Thailand to cook at the highly-regarded Blue Canyon Country Club, then transitioned to Siam Supper Club, where he became Executive Chef and partner. His next step came in 2004, when he returned to Shanghai and cooked at a variety of restaurants and worked stints in catering and consulting. Bartnes relocated to Los Angeles in 2007, finding employment at a Hollywood nightclub before taking on the Chef de Cuisine role at Sai Sai at The Millennium Biltmore in 2008. His latest position was that of Exec Chef at the Downtown Marriott.


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The restaurant occupies the Honda Plaza space that once held Raku and Izakaya Yuji, next to the perpetually-packed Sushi Gen and a couple doors down from shabu specialist Kagaya. The room's been spruced up since its days as Yuji, and is now a lighter, quieter, more restrained sort of place.

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b.o.s.'s menu is delightfully beef centric, featuring a bevy of mostly bovine selections of increasing intensity. In the past, there was also the option of an $85 omakase-style tasting at the six-seater Chef's Counter, but such a menu is only available by special arrangement now. Meanwhile, to imbibe, think a small selection of wines, beers, and sakes, specifically chosen to pair with the substantial amount of meat on the menu. Corkage is $20, though it was waived for our beers. Click for larger versions.

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I ended up bringing a number of bottles to try, the first of which was the Stillwater Artisanal Beer Table - Table Beer. It was easily the lightest of the bunch, and a nice start to things with its fruity, funky, yeasty character up front and surprisingly hoppy finish. Balanced and easy-drinking.

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Carpaccio of Tongue [$11.00] | Pea Sprouts, Avocado, Pickled Shallots, Issan Dressing
Thinly-sliced tongue was up first, a promising beginning to the meal. The meat showed off a restrained, elegant, surprisingly mild sort of meatiness that was beautifully set off by the tangy Isan-inspired dressing, all while the greens imparted a great bitterness and crunch to the mix.

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Burrata Espuma Salad [$15.00] | Grilled Baby Leeks, Cherry Tomatoes, Baby Beets, Blood Oranges, Lemon Garlic Vinaigrette
Beets were smartly presented here, their earthy sort of sugariness tempered by the lush, creamy dollops of burrata while the various accompaniments lent contrasting notes of sweet, sour, savory, and bitter that came together nicely.

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Next up: the 2013 Cascade Cerise Nouveau, which I'd picked up recently during my visit to Portland (it's only available for sale on-site apparently). The beer was an oak-aged red ale infused with Bing cherries, and was pretty delicious, with a subtle, yet still puckering tartness enhanced by an undercurrent of cherry sweetness that was always apparent, yet not domineering.

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Flat Iron Tataki [$14.00] | Shio Koji Marinade, Papaya Salad
Flat iron steak arrived seared and imbued with a great depth of flavor thanks to its treatment with shio koji (a blend of fungus-infected rice and salt). Meanwhile, the papaya salad was spot on as a moderating element in course, really evening things out with its wonderfully crunchy, acidic character.

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Grilled Miso Heart [$14.00] | King Oyster Mushrooms, Yuzu Miso Vinaigrette
The binchotan-grilled heart was a standout, with the offal arriving slick and supple to the bite, its beefy relish augmented by the smoky taste of eringi. I also loved the texture of those mushrooms, as well as how the bright, tangy vinaigrette tied it all together. This is one you have to get, and very possibly the best preparation of heart I've had.

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Fried Tripe "Calamari"& Small Intestine Chicharrón [$14.00] | Cilantro Garlic Yogurt Dip, Issan Dip
Here we had a duet of fried entrails. Tripe was tasty, soft and supple on the inside, but with a crispy coating of batter. It had an almost curry-esque quality to it, and really worked with the bright, refreshing sauce on the side. The intestine, though, was even better, with a great crunch and savoriness to it that went swimmingly with its tangy condiment.

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2013 Evil Twin Yin & Yang were blended together to make the tastiest Black and Tan I'd ever had. Think sweet and roasty initially from the stout, but with a growing hop bitterness from the IPA that really balanced the drink out. Delish.

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Roasted Bone Marrow [$14.00] | Housemade Furikake, 61-Degree Egg, Sesame Gochujang Paste
Bone marrow was another table favorite, and one of the strongest preparations of the ingredient I've tasted. The actual marrow was as slick and slippery as you'd expect, its lush flavors imbued with a distinct Asian-y slant while the furikake gave things a great crunch. The crux here, though, was that combination of egg and gochujang, which provided a combination of spice and lushness that perfectly rounded out the dish. Eminently balanced overall, and at the end, we really wanted some more bread to sop up the remaining sauce.

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Crispy Curried Calf Brain [$14.00] | Butternut Squash Puree, Baby Kale
Brain was surprisingly delectable, and pretty much the most innocuous preparation of the organ that you're ever gonna have. Panko-coated and fried crisp, it was sort of like an earthier, creamier version of sweetbreads that I rather enjoyed, especially when taken with the bitter shreds of kale on the plate. Even the squash worked, coming out not nearly as saccharine as I'd feared.

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The next beer was the Boulevard The Sixth Glass, a quadrupel-style ale that I liked as well. It was fruity, sweet, and malty at first, its dark fruit essence always apparent, yet utterly well integrated, with a slight bitterness toward the finish.

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Sweetbread Tacos [$12.00] | Salsa Verde, Pico de Gallo, Sriracha Sour Cream, Pickled Radish
Sweetbreads were another winner, some of the best I've had in fact. Texturally they were spot on, and I loved how the organ meat's slightly funky flavors were evened out by the myriad of tart, tangy, creamy flavors at play. Great tortillas, too.

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Honeycomb Tripe and Kimchi Stew [$18.00] | Scallion Gnocchi, Lardons, Circulated Egg
Here was what our server described as a Korean-style menudo. Tripe was cooked to an utterly soft, slick consistency, the earthy flavors of the stomach enhanced by the fire of kimchi and those salty lardons, the gnocchi grounding the dish at the same time.

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At this point, we were given a taste of the Cowboy Junmai Ginjo, Niigata, which is ostensibly brewed specifically to go with beef. It was perhaps a bit more assertive than your typical sake, with a semi-viscous, smooth body and rice-y sweetness that fared better than most when taken with all this meat.

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Beef Tendon Risotto [$18.00] | English Peas, Pea Sprouts, Shunkyo Radish, Lardons
I just had to get the risotto, natch, and the use of tendon here made it quite unlike any other I've had, adding an intriguing textural variety to the dish that worked alongside the rice. Taste-wise, the tendon didn't add too much, but rather, it was all about the combination of salty lardon and wonderfully bright veggies here.

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Our final beer was a bourbon barrel-aged barleywine, the 2012 Uinta Cockeyed Cooper. I was a fan of this as well, finding is malty, fruity, almost chocolate-y base a fitting pair to the woody, somewhat vanilla-tinged flavors in the brew.

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A5 Japanese Wagyu NY Strip (Miyazaki, Japan) [$45.00] | 3oz, Trio of Sea Salts
The kitchen then sent out the A5 wagyu, which came fatty and marbled, with a sophisticated beefiness to it was amplified by a dusting of the three salts: lime, chipotle, and wasabi.

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Vanilla Panna Cotta [$7.00] | Macerated Berries
b.o.s. features a single dessert, and tonight's was a panna cotta, one with smooth, creamy vanilla flavors that made sense against the sweet-n-sour notes of the accompanying berries, all while the dish was brightened up by tiny pricks of herbaceousness.

With the possible exception of Totoraku, this is the only restaurant in LA so unabashedly focused on all things cow. I have to say, though, that I came out of the dinner suitably impressed by this seemingly harebrained concept from this virtually unknown chef. The cooking is a smart combination of international, mostly Asian-y influences over a classical base, and plates rightfully focus on flavor first, not shock value. There were some seriously delicious dishes going on tonight, and in my mind, b.o.s. is no doubt one of the best openings to grace Little Tokyo in a long time.

Seasonal Pantry (Washington, DC)

May 15, 2014, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Escala (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: b.o.s. (Los Angeles, CA)

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Seasonal Pantry Restaurant
1314 1/2 9th St NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.713.9866
www.seasonalpantry.com
Wed 04/09/2014, 08:00p-11:05p



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I wrapped up my recent Washington trip with a dinner at Seasonal Pantry. Located in DC's Shaw neighborhood, Seasonal Pantry isn't a restaurant per se. Rather, it functions as a small shop selling housemade jams, pickles, prepared foods, and other sundry items by day. However, by night, the space transforms into a tickets-required supper club, wherein a dozen diners convene to enjoy an intimate meal prepared by Chef/Owner Dan O'Brien. It's one of the City's most unique dining experiences for sure.

About the Chef: Daniel O'Brien is a bit of a country boy, born and raised near the town of Clarkson, New York. Growing up, he spent quite a bit of time on the family farm, and got his start in the biz working at a pizzeria. He attended Paul Smith's College, graduating in 2003, and after an apprenticeship at Hotel Le Laurier in France, worked a stint in Boston and became Executive Chef at Mill Creek Golf Club in New York. After moving to DC, O'Brien served as sous chef at Equinox, then secured the role of executive sous at Bibiana. He would eventually leave Bibiana, training in butchery at Blackberry Farm before establishing Seasonal Pantry in 2009, starting out selling homemade ice cream in 2010, and later launching a sausage club. Partnering with Ali Bagheri (they met while cooking at Equinox), O'Brien opened a brick-and-mortar shop in June 2011, which was quickly followed by an adjacent sandwich place called SUNdeVICH, as well as an associated food truck. The duo then debuted A&D Neighborhood Bar next door in December 2012, shortly after O'Brien competed on Season 10 of Top Chef (he was eliminated in the qualifying round after presenting a messily plated omelet to Wolfgang Puck).

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Seasonal Pantry's menu changes often, and is priced at $130 to $160 (quite an increase from its initial cost of $70), inclusive of wine (carafes of Piedmont and Rhone varietals this evening), tax, and service. Though only four courses are listed, you can expect a meal at least twice as long. Click for a larger version.

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Crunchy, salt and pepper-laced breadsticks were strangely addictive.

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A singular breakfast radish arrived with housemade butter, fleur de sel, and pickled radish greens, a beautiful bite of bitter, creamy, and crunchy finished with the sublime tartness of those greens. A very promising start to the meal.

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A dehydrated kale chip served as a base for its toppings of kale kimchi, tobiko roe, sesame seed crème fraîche, ginger, garlic, and yuzu. I was quite enamored with this, finding a great balance between bitter, savory, and sour nuances, all finished by an Asian-y flair on the finish. Lots going on, but everything just came together seamlessly. Excellent.

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1: Clams | Coconut, Chili, Basil
Another strong course brought us a "chawanmushi" of sorts, combining coconut, dashi, ikura, razor clam, pineapple, mint, basil, and chili. I loved the base of brine here from the clams and how that transitioned to a combination of smoky and sweet flavors, all underpinned by a whisper of heat while the coconut served to tie it all together.

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The housemade pretzel roll was outstanding: hot, salty, and wonderfully fluffy in consistency, delicious on its own and even better when taken with the sweet-hot heat of the included truffle honey mustard.

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Lobster soup was joined by kaffir broth, white truffle, and a bonito-Parmesan biscotto, the essence of the crustacean augmented by a heady, aromatic sweetness.

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2: Carrot | Garlic, EVOO, Raisins
Roasted carrots were presented with tamarind, garlic purée, couscous, and puffed shrimp chicharrones. What struck me here first was the crunch, the snap of the carrots, as well as how their inherent sugariness was so faultlessly balanced by a palpable sense of acidity. Taken alone, they were undoubtedly tasty, but combined with the superbly savory shrimp chips and moderating couscous, and you get very possibly the best carrot-centric dish I've ever had.

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O'Brien's team of Addie, Anna, and stagiaire Anthony huddle around the tiny space that serves as the kitchen.

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Here, the tangy, acerbic nature of pickled mushrooms and ramps in a watercress broth was balanced by the application of that creamy, runny, soft poached egg.

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Next was O'Brien's take on the Italian dish Cacio e Pepe, a lush, buttery preparation of the classic that played the spice of the pepper against a great overarching citrusy twang. Great texture on the pasta, too.

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3: Lamb | Herb, Swiss Chard, Artichoke
Local lamb was beautifully presented, its inherent, earthy goodness amplified by a layer of juicy lamb sausage while a wrapping of chard imparted a fantastic bitterness and snap to the mix. I also appreciated the zing of the included salsa verde, but I wasn't so keen on the sweetness provided by the Jerusalem artichoke mash.

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Serving as an intermezzo of sorts, a "Kale Collins" brought together gin, soda, lime, and kale tonic, a commixture of sweet and sour flavors finished with the herby essence of the veggie.

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A Meyer lemon soufflé was spot on, an eggy, airy version of the dessert flawlessly imbued with the zing of the lemon.

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4: Chocolate
Finally, salted caramel chocolates...

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...and a perfect chocolate chip cookie to take home (though I ate mine there).

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The Chef saying a few words at the end of the meal.

This latest DC trip got off to a strong start, and finished even stronger. I wasn't quite sure what to expect coming in to Seasonal Pantry, but O'Brien had a modern edge to his seemingly rustic cooking that I really appreciated. Flavors were laser-focused, yet smartly balanced and interleaved, and I was a fan of the Chef's elegant use of acidity in the food. This place definitely deserves to be a top dining destination in the City, so I advise you give it a shot if you can manage to snag a ticket.

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Escala (Los Angeles, CA)

May 13, 2014, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Providence (Los Angeles, CA) [5]

≪ Previous: Seasonal Pantry (Washington, DC)

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esCaLA Restaurant
3451 W 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90020
213.387.1113
www.escalaktown.com
Tue 05/13/2014, 08:00p-10:45p



The Koreatown dining scene just got a little more interesting with the debut of Escala, a Colombian-themed eatery that opened at the end of April. The restaurant is the work of Bogotá-born artist/DJ/producer OG Chino, as well as Chef Chris Oh, whom we should all know by now from Seoul Sausage. Oh recently followed up his success on The Great Food Truck Race with wins on both Knife Fight (beating Beer Belly's Wes Lieberher) and Food Network's Cutthroat Kitchen. He also cooked in Vegas last month at the "Culinary Battles 2014: Supreme Asian Chef" competition, coming in behind Phorage's Perry Cheung.

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Escala resides at the Chapman Plaza address once home to Bohemian, an unexceptional bar known more for its skimpily-dressed waitresses than its food. The space has been completely redone and now features a vaguely South American sort of vibe, replete with plenty of art adorning the walls and a DJ booth (personally manned this evening by Mr. Chino).

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As for Escala's menu, you'll find a compact selection of smaller plates (and a couple large ones) that are pretty strictly Latin-influenced, with nary any Korean leanings from Oh. Meanwhile, to drink, you get some sodas, a couple house wines, 15 beers on tap, and cocktails from Bar Manager Aaron Melendrez (Ebanos Crossing, Cole's, Neat Bar). Click for larger versions.

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Tiempo Viejo [$11.00] | Old Granddad Bonded Bourbon / Whiskey Barrel Aged Bitters / Panela / Orange & Lemon Oils
We began with Escala's take on the Old Fashioned, which had all your classic boozy, bitter, citrusy notes, but with a sweeter, more viscous character underpinning the whole drink (from the panela I gather).

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El Padrino [$10.00] | Pisco Porton / Passion Fruit & Mora Shrub / Lemon / Vanilla / Egg White / Angostura
This next concoction, meanwhile, was akin to a Pisco Sour of sorts, one with the eggy, creamy nuances that you'd expect, joined by a fruity, floral tinge that really permeated the cocktail.

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Pork Belly [$10.00] | Fried Pork Belly / Ají Verde
Cubes of rich, fatty, crisp pork belly formed a tasty start to the meal, delightfully savory little nuggets that were nicely set off by the dish's tangy, spicy condiment.

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Guacamole [$10.00] | Crispy Pork Skin / Guacamole
The guac was a winner, the creamy lushness of the dip deftly paired with the shards of crispy, salty chicharrón.

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Ceviche [$12.00] | Tilapia & Shrimp / Roasted Corn / Asian Pear Ají
Ceviche was pretty classic, showing off a restrained acidity and tartness moderated by the sweetness of the corn and pear ají. Some nice textures going on here, especially when taken with the sesame seed-laced chip.

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La Mula Gringa [$11.00] | Jamaica & Passion Fruit Tea Infused Vodka / Fresh Lime / Ginger Syrup / Soda Water
Escala's take on the Moscow Mule was tangy and refreshing, with a sweeter, more floral quality to it than normal thanks to the use of jamaica and passion fruit.

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Colombian Neck Tie [$11.00] | Old Overholt Rye Whiskey / Grand Marnier / Panela / Flamed Lemon Oils / Peychaud's Bitters / Aguardiente Wash
Our last cocktail, meanwhile, was arguably the booziest of the bunch, with an intriguing bitter character, though we found it perhaps a bit one-dimensional at times.

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Chorizo Clams [$12.00] | Steamed Manila Clams / Chorizo Coconut Bisque
Chorizo added a salty, spicy counterpoint to the brine of the clams, the coconut imparting a whisper of levity to the mix, making for a pretty gratifying dish.

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Chicken Wings [$13.00] | Colombian Spiced Fried Chicken Wings
You can't go wrong with chicken wings, and the ones here were quite nice, crisp on the outside yet still moist inside, tasty alone, and even better when taken with the smoky sauce on the side.

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Tamales [$9.00] | Braised Pork Belly / Roasted Tomatillo Salsa
I enjoyed the tamales, their hearty, satisfying dough enhanced by the luxuriousness of pork belly, all while the tomatillo added a further hit of piquancy to the mix.

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One of my dining companions was gracious enough to pop a bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée "Savoir-Faire", a 2001-era Champagne late-disgorged in 2007. Even in this notably poor vintage, the Krug still showed off its character, conveying its classic toastiness while retaining a mix of citrus and apple notes over a dry, somewhat weighty body laced with bursts of tart acidity. Drinking quite well now, though I'd be curious to see how this evolves.

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Empanadas [$9.00] | Beef Empanadas / Ají Verde
Empanadas were pleasing, a commendable preparation of the traditional dish tarted up by a drizzle of the tangy ají.

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Street Corn [$4.00] | Roasted Corn On The Cobb / Crema / Queso Cotija
Corn, meanwhile, was creamy and imbued with a subtle bit of spice, though I wanted some more crispness on the individual kernels.

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Rib Eye [$26.00] | 16oz Marinated Bone-In Rib Eye Steak / Fried Papas
The night's pièce de résistance was an impressive looking cut of rib eye, one suitably beefy and with a strong char character evened out by the salsa fresca on top. However, parts of the steak were chewier than I would've liked, and the char was almost too strong is some spots, taking away from the experience at times.

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Our steak came with a plate of crisp, well-spiced potatoes that paired just swimmingly with the creamy sauce on the side.

Escala's a welcomed addition to the K-Town dining scene that's definitely adding some culinary diversity to the area. The food was casual, but satisfying, and cocktails showed promise as well. At the same time though, I'd like to see the kitchen push things a bit further, to show off a more uniquely colombiano flair. Ideally, we'd have some more uncommon items--think arepas--make their way onto the menu in the future. Colombian cooking is fairly poorly represented in LA, and I'd love to see that change starting here.

Providence (Los Angeles, CA) [5]

May 19, 2014, 7:25 pm

≫ Next: Hello Kitty Kitchen and Dining (Taipei, Taiwan)

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Providence Restaurant
5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.460.4170
www.providencela.com
Sat 03/29/2014, 07:25p-12:30a



What can I say about Michael Cimarusti's Hollywood-adjacent dining destination that hasn't already been said? It's a restaurant that needs no introduction, so we'll get right into it.

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Last time we were seated in the private Sonoma Room, but this time we took the Chef's Table instead, a glass-encased booth that offers up to six diners a front row seat to the kitchen action.

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There's been a bit of change-up in the menu structure. Strict à la carte ordering is no longer advised it seems, and instead there's now a three-course prix fixe at $95. The four- and nine-course market tasting menus remain at $100 and $140 a head, while there's a new, luxurious "Signature and Seasonal" option priced at a lofty $215. We were here, naturally, for the flagship Chef's Menu, which has been bumped up to $210 a person. You can add $95 on top of that for wine pairing, though we opted to bring our own bottles this evening (at a $30 corkage fee). Click for a larger version.

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angry angeleno [$15.00] | blanco tequila, fernet branca, ginger, lime, house made jalapeño bitters
love is a rose [$15.00] | gin, lillet rose, perfection tangerine, passionfruit, honey, prosecco
libre [$15.00] | buffalo trace bourbon, averna, cassis, chocolate chili bitters, orange twist
lazy days [$15.00] | aperol, mandarine napoléon, fresh rhubarb, lambrusco bianco secco
Before the wine, we went with a quartet of cocktails to start, which have held up quite well even with the departure of head bartender Laura Lindsay. Going left to right, the Angry Angeleno tasted of the City, a patchwork of spicy, smoky, and bitter flavors accented by bursts of tart lime, the ginger adding an undercurrent of piquancy to the entire drink. Love is a Rose, meanwhile, showed off a nose redolent of fruity and floral aromas, while taste wise, think tangy and bittersweet, with just a whisper of honey. The Libre was the booziest of the bunch, loaded with dark, sweet, and bitter flavors brightened up by a strong citric component. Finally, my favorite was the Lazy Days with its intoxicating bouquet of mandarin orange and palate bursting with bittersweet spice; refreshing and super quaffable.

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We began our parade of a record nine amuse bouches with a take on the Dark 'N' Stormy, comprising dark rum gelée, ginger beer foam, and lime. It was a fun little bite, the subtly boozy character of the rum giving way to sugary and ginger-y notes toward the back end.

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A scallop "taco" of sorts brought together cured scallop tartar, sushi rice, and rice cracker, all folded into a wild nasturtium leaf. It was fantastic, with a classic, Japanese-y interplay between the rice and scallop finished by the zestiness of the herb. Superbly well-integrated, with a lovely crunch from the senbei.

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A singular littleneck was accompanied by chorizo gelée, chorizo foam, and its own liquor, its brine wonderfully apparent, yet smartly tempered by the restrained heat of the sausage. Very neat.

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Wagyu tartare was served with black truffle and olive oil, then set atop squares of focaccia. The bites were as rich and tasty as you'd expect, their beefiness amplified by the application of the oil while the truffle became more apparent toward the close, a perfect finish.

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With the cocktails dispensed with, we moved on to some bubbly, the 2002 Pol Roger Champagne Brut Vintage specifically. I found it a delightful sparkler: dry, crisp, and citrus-y, with a palpable toastiness that recalled shades of Krug. This one's drinking well now.

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Next, a shot of liquid containing smoked halibut bone, dashi, lemon, olive oil, and butter hid a bottom layer of petit pois. It was a hearty, heady broth, underpinned by a fantastic savory-smoky character that paired superbly with the comparative bright, sweet, crunchy qualities of the peas.

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Sitting atop a brazier were grilled Shigokus topped with Champagne beurre blanc and American caviar. They were some of the tastiest hot oysters I've had, showing off a woody, smoky essence moderated by the lushness of the buttery sauce while the caviar imparted a focused touch of salt.

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Providence's skewers have become a mainstay at the restaurant, and for good reason. Monterey abalone was glazed in miso, arriving wonderfully sweet and saline, with a gorgeous bit of char and a texture that perfectly melded soft and substantial. Next, sword squid was paired with Spanish chorizo, the smoky, spicy sausage a flawless complement to the comparatively restrained cephalopod--super tasty in an almost base sort of way.

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Wafer thin strips of salmon skin were fantastic on their own, conveying the salty, mouthwatering taste of the fish in a marvelously crispy package. As delicious as they were alone, the crackers were taken up a notch by the application of smoked crème fraîche, ikura, chive, and garlic flower, which seemed to amplify the concentrated essence of the salmon even more.

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Our final hors d'oeuvre was a cigar of braised wagyu encased in feuille de brick, easily the heftiest of the nonet. Think deep, dark, unabashedly savory flavors, countered by the zesty greenery. Excellent texture on the thin, crisp pastry, too.

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With the meal proper about to commence, we proceeded to open a bottle of 2003 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Silex, probably the greatest Sauvignon Blanc I'd ever tasted. Think a bright burst of citrus and tropical fruit initially, cut by a tangible minerality and a grassy character while oaky and spicy alcoholic notes imparted a fantastic complexity to the wine. Wow. This is one worth seeking out.

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1: japanese saba | pickled ginger, carrot, coriander, cucumber
We began with a bang, the Japanese mackerel coming out wonderfully fishy and oily, yet elegant, its potency evened out by the pickle-y crunch and acidity of the various accoutrements here. Simply a masterful presentation of saba.

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Three breads were on offer: dinner roll, bacon brioche, nori focaccia. All were on point, thoroughly enjoyable on their own, but even better with a sprinkle of fleur de sel from the south of France or a smear of the outstanding salted butter from Normandy's Rodolphe Le Meunier.

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2: uni & abalone | buckwheat, farm fresh egg
Santa Barbara uni and Monterey abalone were married here, set in a mélange of scrambled egg, puffed buckwheat, truffle, and chive. The combination was as delicious as it sounds, the lushness of the egg and urchin working hand-in-hand with the earthy notes of truffle, while chive added just a hint of herbaceousness to the mix. Superb texture on that abalone, too.

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3: santa barbara spot prawn | white asparagus, caviar, jurancon
Spot prawn was served with its own roe, caviar, Dutch white asparagus, and Zuckerman Farms green asparagus, all in a Jurançon-based sauce. The prawn itself was done justice, cooked to snappy, supple consistency, its inherent sweetness and salinity enhanced by the application of roe. If that wasn't enough, the bitterness of the asparagus served as a top-notch foil to the luxuriousness of the dish, while the Jurançon help tie everything together.

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4: alaskan king crab | risotino all'onda, preserved black bean, black pepper, orange zest
A risotto brought together king crab, vegetable stock, white wine, black bean oil, and orange zest. The name of the course actually belied its true character. The crux of the dish wasn't the crab for me, but the interaction between the tangy citrus and depth of the black bean, which was overarched by the subtle brine of the crustacean. One of the most contemplative risottos I've had.

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5: wild king salmon | salsify, black truffle, baby leek
Salmon belly arrived flawlessly cooked, a properly rare presentation just brimming with the fatty, sweet goodness of the fish. Black truffle provided an additional layer of luxuriousness to the course, but even more important was the leek, which imparted just enough astringency to even things out.

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Throughout the night, Providence Sommelier Drew Langley assisted us with wine service.

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Our final wine of the night was a red to go with some of the heartier courses: the 1996 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares. It was a lovely example of a mature red Burgundy, its notes of ripe fruit (which seemed to intensify as time progressed) joined by a certain earthy-slash-spicy quality that provided balance, while tannins gave a good structure to the wine.

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6: wild french turbot | california morels, almond, miners lettuce
Turbot was among the best I've had, its dense body and elegant flavor profile melding seamlessly with the smoky, heady relish of the morels while the miner's lettuce contributed a bright, tangy accent piece to the course.

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7: miyazaki wagyu | roasted baby carrot, shallot confit, shiitake mushroom
Japanese beef arrived to the table plated with roasted shiitake, shallot confit, carrot purée, and a wagyu powder. The meat itself was expectedly fatty, though not exceedingly so, with a salty, savory richness to it that satisfied alone, but also worked with the beef's various accompaniments.

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8: artisanal cheeses
Providence's cheese cart should be enough to make any turophile swoon. We went with a "dealer's choice" option, which included Bohemian Creamery's funky, creamy BoDacious, Gruyère de Comté, and the excellent Sottocenere truffle cheese, all served alongside pear, rhubarb, figs, walnut, and sliced baguette.

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9: blood orange sorbet | yogurt bavarois, rhubarb, guava
We then moved into the sweet courses, which are the work of Pastry Chef David Rodriguez. Our pre-dessert brought together blood orange, rhubarb, and guava to form a jammy, sugary combination that played well against the tangy, lactic yogurt.

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10: japanese cheesecake | huckleberry, black sesame/soy-milk ice cream
Cheesecake prepared à la Japonaise was delectable, the subtly sweet cake working swimmingly with the sugary huckleberry jam while black sesame ice cream and streusel imparted a wonderfully nutty bent to the whole dessert.

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11: dulcey cremeaux | spiced genoise, sunchoke, cocoa nib
My favorite dessert featured pear spice cake, cacao nibs, sunchoke ice cream, sunchoke chips, and candied sunchoke, a real celebration of the root vegetable that paired its nutty sweetness against the delightful spice of the genoise, all while the nibs offered up a bitter accent.

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fire and spice [$15.00] | cocoa nib infused tequila ocho plata, ancho reyes ancho chile liqueur, l.b.v. port, mexican vanilla, orange oils
We ordered up a "dessert cocktail" of sorts with the Fire and Spice, and it fit the bill nicely, giving up spicy, chocolate-y flavors amped up with notes of tart citrus.

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A "bonus" dessert was a chocolate marquise--sort of a dark chocolate flourless cake--with white chocolate mousse, espresso, chantilly, cacao, chocolate sorbet, and candied streusel. It was a multifaceted celebration of chocolate, its various nuances all seemingly bound together by an enveloping bitterness from the coffee.

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Mignardises included peppermint macarons, brown butter madeleines, sunchoke caramels, lychee pâtes de fruit, as well as various housemade chocolates.

I've been coming to Providence since 2007, and the restaurant just keeps on getting better. Cimarusti's cooking has evolved nicely over the years, and has always conveyed a sense of modernity to it without ever seeming like it's trying too hard. This most recent meal just reinforces that notion. Certainly then, the restaurant remains a paragon of the fine dining game in the City, an icon of Los Angeles cuisine that everyone should try at least once. By the time you read this, Providence will have closed for a quick remodel, to reopen hopefully by May's end with a refreshed, Art Deco-meets-maritime feel.

Hello Kitty Kitchen and Dining (Taipei, Taiwan)

May 27, 2014, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Smoke Oil Salt (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Providence (Los Angeles, CA) [5]

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Hello Kitty Sweets
No. 90, Section 1, Da'an Rd, Daan District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106
+886.2.2711.1132
www.facebook.com/pages/Hello-Kitty-Sweets/260853043946112
Fri 04/18/2014, 07:30p-09:35p



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I was in Taipei recently for a short while visiting family, and given the Taiwanese penchant for both theme restaurants and Hello Kitty, the existence of this Sanrio-approved eatery (it used to be a dessert-only joint) didn't surprise me one bit. A friend had actually mentioned the place to me, and it was sort of in the back of my mind, but when I found out that it was right across the street from my hotel (kitty-corner, if you will), I had no excuse not to go.

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The restaurant is split into two levels, and inside things are about what you'd expect: lots of pink, and HK heads abound, all the better to distract you from the food. There's a pâtisserie on the first floor selling cakes and other pastry items to go, and looking back, I wish I'd visited the bathrooms, just to see what they're like.

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Hello Kitty Kitchen and Dining's menu is surprisingly extensive, and features "Western" dishes in a mostly prix fixe format (you choose your main dish and everything else is included) as well as a large array of sweets. Click for larger versions.

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There's also a wide variety of beverages available, though sadly, booze isn't an option (as it'd certainly help the food go down). Click for larger versions.

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Salad
A mishmash of limp greens was dressed with a tangy, Thousand Island-ish condiment. The most interesting thing here was the inclusion of seaweed into the mix, which did give the salad a nice crunch.

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Soup
The soup course arrived piping hot, tasting vaguely of bread and potato, and was palatable enough, though quite thin and with an institutional quality to it.

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The napkins certainly fit the bill. And yes, I did take some to go.

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Bread
Emblazoned with a Hello Kitty head, the bread was surprisingly enjoyable, with an intriguing sweetness to it that I rather liked.

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Appetizer - Kitty Roasted Rice
And now for the first of our two appetizers. The rice was reasonably acceptable, the grains coming out on the firm side and imbued with a mysterious sort of flavor that I couldn't quite put my finger on. It felt a tad weird eating this.

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Appetizer - Baked Vegetables
The second app wasn't as successful, a medley of veggies (mostly mushrooms) coated in a thick layer of cheese, a misguided gratin of sorts. Unfortunately, the dish arrived stone cold in spots, and needed to be sent back. Once properly cooked, it was technically edible, though certainly not enjoyably so.

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Beef Stew With Kitty Bread-cup [NT$480]
Served in a slightly scary Kitty head bread bowl, the beef stew really wasn't much like a beef stew, but rather more like meatballs in a marinara-esque sauce. The balls themselves were actually quite tasty, like what you might get from a mid-level frozen dinner, though the tomato sugo had a strange, disconcerting metallic taste to it. I was, however, impressed that the kitchen had the gall to toss a runny egg in there.

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Wi-Fi is ostensibly available here, protected by just about the most unsecure password possible.

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Kitty Mushroom Beef Burger [NT$500]
Our mushroom burger didn't really taste much of mushrooms at all, and the patty itself was quite unlike any other I'd had before, displaying a consistency that reminded me of IKEA Swedish meatballs. That being said, it wasn't half bad, with a decent amount of juiciness and a peppery kick to it that went nicely with the cheese. We were quite satisfied with the fries here too, as well as the cuteness of the Hello Kitty head-shaped top bun. It was almost too cute to eat, almost.

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Mexican Spicy Kitty Pizza [NT$400]
The "Mexican" pizza (I'm assuming anything spicy can be considered Mexican here) was the clear winner among our mains, and was available à la carte for some reason (at a NT$100 discount). It did indeed have a bit of heat to it, and along with the cheese and the peppers and the crust, managed to amount to something that I wouldn't mind eating again, like a decent frozen pizza. I still prefer Taco Bell's rendition though.

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Dessert
Dessert for the set menu was some sort of gelatin concoction with an unidentifiable, but unoffensive flavor.

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Comprehensive Berry Tea [NT$180]
Drinks strangely come at the end of the meal by default, and my choice of beverage was this unfortunately-titled mixed berry tea.

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Pink Sweetheart [NT$120]
Given that this used to be a dedicated dessert place, we opted for this strawberry mousse cake to close, which wasn't bad (despite the rock-hard Hello Kitty white chocolate on top), though we were disappointed that it didn't come with all the trappings depicted on the menu.

Sadly, our meal here wasn't nearly as good as we were hoping for. In fact, it's rare that I get the opportunity to eat food this laughable. The cuisine clearly didn't measure up, and that pains me because I certainly respect Kitty White as one of the preeminent cross-cultural icons of our time. It's not like they're trying to be fancy with the food here, so if they could just put in more than the absolute minimal amount of effort (e.g. shoot for Applebee's quality), I think that the restaurant could achieve a level of cooking commensurate with the undeniable appeal of Miss White, because right now, they're doing a disservice to her good name. If you're willing accept a less pink environment and a larger cast of Sanrio characters, the nearby Kiko's Diner would probably be a better bet.

Smoke Oil Salt (Los Angeles, CA)

May 30, 2014, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Addiction (Taipei, Taiwan)

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smoke.oil.salt Restaurant
7274 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90046
323.930.7900
www.smokeoilsalt.com
Thu 05/01/2014, 08:30p-11:30p



When we last caught up with Perfecto Rocher, he was cooking over at Lazy Ox, waiting to start work on Michael Cardenas' long-awaited Spanish concept (that'd been announced way back at the start of 2011). However, though Taberna Arros y Vi did eventually materialize, Rocher was nowhere near it, having left Cardenas' side in July 2013. He landed a gig with the Hermosa Restaurant Group, and was slated to develop a Spanish restaurant in the old Hibachi space, but left the position in October last year to start work on Smoke Oil Salt with Adam Fleischman and Lee Weinberg of AdVantage Restaurant Partners, as well as television producer Stephen Gelber and hospitality consultant Jason Berkowitz.

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The restaurant is housed in the former home of Evan Kleiman's Angeli Caffe, a building that was previously slated to become Casey Lane's defunct Itri. The space is divided into two rooms, one housing the kitchen bar and the other the bar bar, and has a warm, rustic sort of sensibility to it. It does get rather loud in there, though.

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Despite what you might think, Smoke Oil Salt doesn't really strike me as a tapas sort of place. Instead, you get more of a Valencian leaning style of Spanish cooking, divided into both smaller and larger plates. The Chef's oft bandied about paellas, meanwhile, are only available on Sundays (due to kitchen constraints). As for the booze, you get a smattering of cocktails, ciders, and some beers, but the drink of choice here seems to be wine, of which there is a pretty commendable (Spain-centric) selection. Click for larger versions.

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pa amb tomaca | catalan tomato toast
Rocher quickly sent out a plate of pa amb tomàquet, a lovely presentation of the classic that balanced the sweet, refreshing nature of tomato with the richness of olive oil, all over a perfect base of toasty bread.

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pernil ibéric | highest grade iberico ham -- hand-carved
Accompanying the bread were shavings of pata negra: smooth, slick, fatty shards of the vaunted ham positively loaded with savory, nutty flair.

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olives amb bitets [$6.00] | olives, toasted almonds, manchego
Olives were as piquant as expected, nicely paired with the included cubes of Manchego and crunchy bits of almond.

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bravas trencades [$11.00] | fried potatoes, serrano ham, chorizo, fried egg
Fried taters, ham, chorizo, a runny egg--all good stuff. It's hard to go too wrong with those ingredients, and indeed, this dish satisfied in an almost base sort of manner. Yum.

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truita de carxofes [$11.00] | artichoke omelet, meyer lemon aioli
I'm not a huge fan of artichoke, but rather enjoyed this, finding its subtly sweet, nutty relish a natural complement to the egg, all while the herb salad on top imparted a refreshing note to the dish.

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flam d'eri ó [$18.00] | sea urchin flan, caviar, shrimp, chili oil
The uni flan was a must try of course, and deftly played the sweet brine of the roe against the counterbalancing forces of chili oil. I don't think I'd ever had sea urchin with these sort of flavors before.

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bunyols de bacallà [$12.00] | cod croquetas, citrus aioli
The bacalao was among the best I've tried, wonderfully crisp spheres that just melted in your mouth in a burst of warm, creamy, salty goodness, tempered just slightly by the zing of the aioli.

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peixet fregit [$12.00] | fried smelt, fennel, pickles, horseradish aioli
Fried smelt were enjoyable as well, some wonderfully crunchy, briny fish fries basically, moderated by the accompanying assortment of veggies and herbs.

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calamars amb mongetes [$15.00] | monterey bay baby calamari, warm cranberry beans
Squid was presented in two forms, a delightfully slick, snappy preparation, and a delectable fried style. It was great to see the two facets of the cephalopod here, both complementary, yet both enhanced by the weight of those beans.

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salpico d'orxata i ostres, clotxines [$17.00] | oyster and mussel cocktail, marinated in tiger nut milk
A cocktail of octopus, oyster, and mussel really conveyed the ocean-y depth of those ingredients, while a broth of tiger nut milk imparted a refreshingly sweet, slightly curry-esque tint to the course.

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flori-col amb allets [$9.00] | caramelized cauliflower and broccoli, garlic spicy chili
You don't see cauliflower presented with its cousin broccoli all that often, but the dish served tonight was superb, one of the best versions of Brassica oleracea I've tasted. The florets were properly crisp, and imbued with a pretty incredible depth of savor, accented by a just the right amount of lingering heat.

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polp a la brasa [$17.00] | smoked octopus, garden herb salad, potato vinaigrette
Octopus, meanwhile, arrived tender, yet still with a bit of bite, and conveyed a mouth-watering sort of smokiness that went gorgeously with the comparatively mild slices of potato and acidic herb salad up top.

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pluma iberica [$35.00] | wood-fire grilled butcher's filet iberico pork, smoked green onions, xato sauce
At this point, we moved on into the larger plates, the first of which was one of the strongest preparations of cooked pork I've had. Cut from the end of the loin, the meat was undeniably juicy, tender, and bursting with piggy goodness. The pluma displayed a depth and complexity that I just don't see in pork loins all that often, and the smoky, astringent onions and tangy xato served as perfect accoutrements.

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cassoleta de fideua negra [$32.00] | squid ink pasta, patagonian shrimp, chanterelles, honey aioli
One of the first things I ever tasted from Rocher was his fideua, and tonight, the noodles did not disappoint either, coming out dark as night and completely permeated by the lush, saline flavors of the various items of seafood present. A hearty, comforting sort of dish, and one that really speaks to the Chef's cooking.

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crema catalana amb compota citrica [$8.00] | catalan custard, mandarin compote, smokey ice cream
We sampled all three of SOS's desserts, starting with a spot on crema catalana that admirably blended contrasting notes of smoke and citrus.

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peres al vi [$8.00] | poached pears, red wine reduction, lemon mousse, goat-milk ice cream
The poached pears also made a good case for itself, managing to become one of the tastiest renditions of the dessert I've tried, thanks to its sweet, wine-y flavors augmented by the tang of goat's milk.

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arros amb llet de xoxolata [$8.00] | valrhona chocolate rice pudding, salty caramel, cinnamon whipped cream
Last up was a commendable rice pudding, one teeming with sweet-spicy flavors and the lushness of chocolate, fitting accompaniments to the comparatively subdued arroz. Some lovely textures on this one, too.

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Chef Rocher at the end of the night.

I'm happy to report that I came out of this meal very satisfied. The food displayed a depth, complexity, and bravado that pleasantly surprised me, given that the restaurant had only opened about a week prior. This seems like the type of cooking Rocher should've been doing all along, and it shows in the plates that he's putting out. SOS really is a great addition to the often underserved Spanish scene here in LA, and my hope is that the Chef can manage to stick around for a while.

Addiction (Taipei, Taiwan)

June 3, 2014, 6:15 pm

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Addiction Aquatic Development
No. 18, Alley 2, Lane 410, Minzu East Rd, Zhongshan District, Taipei City, Taiwan 104
+886.2.2508.1268
www.addiction.com.tw
Sun 04/20/2014, 06:15p-09:40p



One of the more interesting concepts to open up in Taipei in recent years is Addiction Aquatic Development (AAD), a multifaceted project by the Mitsui Group (they run a number of high-end Japanese places around the City) that opened back in 2012. The goal of the 21,000+ square-foot space was to revitalize the local fish market, and to that effect, they've converted an old building into a sleek, upscale, wood-swathed space that has quickly become one of the places to go in Taipei.

Addiction is nominally divided into ten distinct areas. You enter through a large room holding dozens of live seafood tanks. Product here is available for purchase, and can even be cooked for on-site consumption. The most popular section by far is the sushi counter, which is, oddly-enough, standing only, as is the raw bar in the back. You also have the hot pot restaurant, which is the only spot that takes reservations, as well as an outdoor charcoal grill, which sometimes has live entertainment. The largest area is the market, where you can buy produce, meat, booze, prepared sushi to go, and even desserts. Wrapping things up are the hot food station, a boutique with kitchen ware, books, and other "lifestyle" products (along with an adjacent wine bar), a fruit stand replete with smoothies, and a flower and plant shop.

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The sushi area was a bit of a mess, so we took a number (actually two, #473 and #491) and headed over to the raw bar (shown above).

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Here's the menu and wine/sake list for the raw bar. It is interesting to note that the selection of wines is exclusively French. Perhaps there's still the perception in Asia that wines from France are inherently superior? Click for larger versions.

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We ended up getting an Assorted Seafood Platter [NT$1280] to share, which had a number of items including hairy crab, king crab, two types of abalone, prawn, tuna, salmon roe, mullet roe, scallop, oyster, and a salmon sashimi salad. It was a nice spread, and I was particularly fond of the abalone and sweet, succulent shards of crab.

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And to drink, a bottle of Sainte Marie 2011 Entre Deux Mers Madlys [NT$1080], a light, refreshing Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend that worked wonderfully with the seafood.

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Given that our number(s) still wasn't up, we wandered over to the wine bar, bottle in tow.

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After a while, #491 came up on the screen. However, this wasn't an invitation to actually get into the sushi area, but rather a call to peruse the menu and order(?). We had to endure another 20 minutes or so of being crammed together before being let in (ostensibly through our #473 ticket). The entire experience was far more stressful than it needed to be.

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Upon being "seated," we had some uni to start. Not as lush or as creamy as what you may be accustomed to in the States, but still good.

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Our sushi platter also came with this earthy, umami-laden seafood miso soup. Pretty tasty, though a touch oily.

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And here was our sushi plate (NT$600), comprising 10 pieces of nigiri, two gunkanmaki, two hosomaki, and tamago to close. I didn't get to sample everything, but what I did try was solid.

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And now for what I believe was halibut, as well as some scallop.

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Some tasty grilled yellowtail collar to end our time at this station.

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Onward to the outdoor grill, probably the most festive area in the AAD.

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After being led to our table, we were taken to the seafood tanks to make our selections.

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First up, some pricey, briny clams.

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And some nice cuts of beef, replete with crispy garlic chips.

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Squid balls were delightfully springy, with a great savor to 'em.

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A hearty onigiri-style rice ball.

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And finally some juicy shiitake mushrooms to close.

Logistically, I think there's room for improvement here, especially given the scale of the place and the resources of its operators. That being said, the actual food was quite good, and I'm a fan of the whole concept as well. Is there anything like it in LA?