ink.well (Los Angeles, CA)

November 15, 2017, 7:30 pm

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ink.well Restaurant
826 N La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90069
310.358.9058
www.mvink.com
Sat 10/14/2017, 07:30p-11:00p





My final visit to Michael Voltaggio's ink was on July 16th, and just days later, it was announced that the restaurant would be closing at the end of that month. It was a surprising shutter to me, but what was also surprising was how the Chef opened up its replacement just weeks later, on August 11th, in the old Hutchinson space not even a half-mile away. Ink.well is ostensibly designed to be more approachable than its predecessor, so we decided to give it a try to see if that was actually the case.




Before it was James Trees' Hutchinson, the building previously held The Spanish Kitchen (which wasn't actually Spanish, but Mexican), southern eatery The Shark Bar, La Mer Brasserie, Alzaco's, Manhattan West, and The Lobster Barrel, which was actually owned by Alan Hale Jr. of Gilligan's Island fame. The space was apparently revamped by Voltaggio himself, and features a bi-level main dining area along with another room to the side and a narrow patio out front.


Compared to that of ink, the menu here's slightly more casual I'd say, but still has a very similar aesthetic. And in fact, many of the dishes are nearly identical, if not identical identical. Drink-wise, you get cocktails from barman Otello Tiano, a half-dozen beers, and appropriate wines. Click for larger versions.


gin [$15.00] | st. germain, celery, beet, lime
A couple of my dining companions had arrived early and ordered drinks at the bar, and I was able to give 'em a try. The first was somewhat reminiscent of a Bloody Mary, with an earthy sweetness from the beet paired with strong, vegetal notes of celery. A well constructed cocktail, though not exactly my cup of tea.


blended scotch [$15.00] | honey, ginger, yuzu, lemon, islay spritz
The next cocktail--basically a Penicillin variation--married tart citrus and zesty ginger with the sugariness of honey. This was all layered over a base of whiskey, which really made itself known on the mid-palate.


beef tartare [$18.00] | crispy onions, banh mi flavors
Our first dish was an interesting take on the classic beef tartar. Texturally, I wanted more substance from the meat, as it seemed to get overshadowed by the mounds of crunchy onions. The flavor profiles worked though, with the aerated fish sauce providing an overarching funk and creaminess that really meshed with the beef and basil.


calamari [$15.00] | masa-potato crust, curry emulsion, coriander
The squid was a favorite, its considerable brine well-matched with the astringent, herby qualities of coriander powder. I loved the texture of the calamari too: crunchy, yet light, with a slight grittiness.


rum [$16.00] | velvet falernum, banana, hazelnut orgeat, orange, lime
This was described by our server as a tiki-inspired cocktail, which makes the choice of serving it in a standard beer mug seem odd. That being said, it was damn tasty, coming out loaded with fruity, sweet, and spicy flavors as well as a familiar, almost savory quality. Very light on the booze, with a great nuttiness on the finish.


hamachi crudo [$18.00] | piquillo pepper romesco, jicama, olive
Hamachi "tacos" were lovely. I found the fish itself meaty and fatty, with a oceany character that married well with the savory, nutty, somewhat spicy notes present. There was also a "funky" quality on the back end (perhaps from the olives) that I quite liked, and I appreciated the contrasting crunch from the jicama, too.


frisée salad [$16.00] | crispy pig ears, egg yolk pudding, espelette, sherry vinaigrette
A riff on the iconic salade lyonnaise was next. Shards of pig ear played the role of lardons, providing a salty, crunchy element that just made sense with the rich, creamy egg pudding and tangy vinaigrette.


pisco [$14.00] | maraschino, apple, verjus blanc, egg white, lemon
A take on the pisco sour met the mark. The cocktail displayed a somewhat chocolate-y quality that I enjoyed, which played well with the bitter, grapey nuances present as well as the drink's eggy aromatics.


hokkaido scallops [$24.00] | buttered turnips, toasted milk, yuzu, sea bean powder
This was the weakest course of the night for me. My first issue was that I wanted more oomph to the actual scallops. More concerning, though, was the toasted milk, which imparted a lactic quality that seemed rather one-note, and not very harmonious with the rest of the dish. More acidity would've been nice, too.


octopus [$29.00] | ink. shells, young fennel, pimenton
This was a standout, not surprisingly. Texturally I found the octo firm, meaty, yet yielding, with a wonderfully crisp, charred exterior. It showed off a great mix of savoriness, spice, and funk that really satisfied, especially when paired with the zippiness of fennel. Great counterpoint from those pasta shells as well.


sloe gin [$13.00] | cold brew, coca cola, vanilla, tonic, grapefruit
Our next cocktail was a favorite of mine for sure. Great coffee and cola flavors leading to a marked fruitiness and vanilla, with the finish giving up more long-lasting coffee. Light and easy.


jidori chicken thighs [$22.00] | sunflower seed risotto, banyuls vinegar jus
The Chef likes to play "hide the chicken" it seems. Hearty, tender, moist thighs made for another favorite. The bird was delicious alone, but I also loved the almost "crunchy" risotto and bitterness from the collard greens. Superb accent from the tangy vinegar, too. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


cauliflower [$14.00] | chickpeas, lime, vadouvan, toasted yogurt
This tasted like Indian food (sort of like a chana masala with raita), which I didn't mind. I was a fan of the hefty garbanzos, and how they worked with the coconut-y, yogurt-y flavors at play and the pinpoints of sourness from the lime.


vodka [$14.00] | st. germain, cucumber, basil, lime
The requisite vodka cocktail was another easy-drinker, displaying plenty of tart, refreshing citrus and sweet elderflower notes perked up by the application of basil.


young broccoli [$12.00] | black garlic, lemon, tamari-mustard
Baby broccoli was superb, delivering its signature crunch and bitterness alongside the piquancy of lemon and black garlic, the tamari and olives imparting a dose of umami to the mix.


branzino [$38.00] | lemon-chili butter, spinach, cuttlefish noodles, caper powder
The branzino was another highlight, arriving flaky and flavorful, with a wonderfully crispy skin to boot. The fish was thoroughly enjoyable all by itself, though I also liked the textural contrast from the cuttlefish.


bourbon [$16.00] | amaro ciociaro, fig, orange
This was the booziest cocktail of the bunch. Super aromatic nose brimming with sweet fig. The taste went in a medicinal direction, with a lot of heat, plenty of bittersweet, and a smidge of citrus.


pork cheeks [$34.00] | banana grits, banana peppers, baby kale
Pork came out ridiculously tender, with an almost gelatinous consistency. Its flavors were as rich and satisfying as expected, but what really surprised me were the grits, which had an unusual banana-powered sweetness that really sung when taken with the cheeks.


egg yolk gnocchi [$15.00] | tiny potatoes, buttermilk butter, dill
Gnocchi were super soft, creamy, eggy, and sort of pop in your mouth. Given low luscious they were, the potatoes were key as a counterpoint, and I appreciated the use of dill as well.


spritz [$16.00] | rose, pisco, luxardo aperitivo, genepy des alpes, grapefruit
The spritz was expectedly gluggable, featuring a light astringency along with floral, botanical elements and a healthy dosing of grapefruit.


street corn [$13.00] | cool ranch "foritos," cotija cheese
I was a big fan of this reimagined esquites. The kernels were beautifully textured, their sweetness working hand in hand with the cheesy, herby flavors in the dish. Excellent crunch from the chips, too.


semolina gnocchetti pasta [$16.00] | dry tomato sauce, nasturtium pesto, pecorino
The gnocchetti definitely had an al dente-like consistency going on. Taste-wise, I got lots of astringent notes from the nasturtium-laced pesto, which was actually a bit much, as the sauce tended to dominate the dish.


tequila [$15.00] | ancho reyes, corn, red pepper, rosemary, lemon
Our final cocktail featured an intensely sweet, vegetal nose and flavors that were herby, medicinal, yet simultaneously sweet 'n' spicy. The tequila was pretty well masked.


dry aged holstein beef rib eye [$62.00] | potato purée with choice of seaweed or raw butter
Finishing up the savories was the steak, which was a crowd pleaser. Cooked medium-rare, it conveyed a mouthwatering, concentrated beefiness along with a nice sear. The potatoes, meanwhile, also delivered, with the seaweed amping up an otherwise classic preparation. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


With the cocktails all done with, we sampled the cider, shacksbury dry, middlebury, vermont [$12]. I rather liked it. Think crisp, dry, and just sweet enough, with some great funky, barnyard-y notes.


apple [$12.00] | crème caramel, shortbread, burnt wood semifreddo
There were just three desserts on offer tonight, so of course we had to get 'em all. Our first was ink.well's signature, which is almost like a modern classic among LA desserts at this point. The reconstructed caramel apple pie was as delish as always, giving up great apple flavors commingled with a helping of salt and smoke. Really well put together, with a great texture from the shortbread too.


mexican chocolate [$12.00] | almond crumble, caramelized white chocolate, toasted rice cream, hibiscus
One of my dining companions humorously described this dish as "cottage cheese and testicles." He wasn't far off the mark visually, but fortunately the dessert's flavors were much more appealing: spiced chocolate, toasty almond "soil," and those two quenelles of caramelized white chocolate ganache, with a bit of fruitiness from the hibiscus syrup and a finish that definitely highlighted the jasmine rice "rocks."


We also tried a beer, the india pale ale, 14 cannons tyrannicide, west lake village, california [$9]. This was a solid IPA. Nose was bitter, floral, with a touch of juiciness underneath. The palate again went in a floral, herbaceous direction, with traces of tropical fruit and lots of hop bitterness.


market berries [$12.00] | malt pavlova, lemon curd, buttermilk ice
Our final dessert featured a variety of berries in a strawberry consommé, set against the tartness of aerated lemon curd while the buttermilk granita provided a contrast in both texture and temperature. My favorite part? Those nutty, airy meringues and wisps of fennel on top.


As a bonus, one of my fellow diners brought along Oreo-flavored Rice Krispies Treats for us all to enjoy.

I think the Chef's goal here was to serve food that's more accessible. I'd say that it probably is, though not by much, and that's actually a good thing. The cooking still reads like Voltaggio's doing, and still has those sort of modernist flourishes you expect, but the overall package is indeed more mainstream. In the end, I don't think we should bemoan the loss of ink, since this is basically ink 2.0 in my eyes.

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Columbia Room (Washington, DC)

November 20, 2017, 8:00 pm

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Columbia Room Bar
124 Blagden Alley NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.316.9396
www.columbiaroomdc.com
Wed 10/18/2017, 08:00p-12:30a





As regular readers will attest to, I do enjoy my cocktails, and given that Columbia Room is oft considered the best cocktail bar in the District, I knew I had to give it a go. This was especially true since Head Chef duties here are handled by Johnny Spero, whom I last saw over at Minibar. He ended up leaving the restaurant in 2015, and spent a year staging at Andoni Luis Aduriz's much-lauded Mugaritz before returning Stateside.

Columbia Room comes to us from noted barman, alcohol historian, and DC native Derek Brown. Brown built up an impressive résumé as a sommelier at Frank Ruta's Palena, Michel Richard's Citronelle, and Johnny Monis' Komi before branching out into the cocktail side of things. During his time at Komi, he co-founded underground cocktail bar Hummingbird to Mars, and in late 2008, helped open The Gibson. In November 2009, Brown and his brother Tom, along with Paul Ruppert, debuted The Passenger, a wine bar that eventually turned into a cocktail bar. In the back of The Passenger was Columbia Room, a 10-seater tasting counter that dropped in March the following year.

Not long after, in April 2010, Brown partnered up with Angie Fetherston (née Salame) and founded Drink Company. The two launched Mockingbird Hill, a sherry-focused bar, in June 2013. This was followed by oyster bar Eat the Rich in October 2013, and Southern Efficiency (focused on Southern whiskey) in December that year. At the start of 2015, Columbia Room and The Passenger both closed. The former re-opened in February 2016 at its current location, while the latter returned months later, but under the sole ownership of Tom Brown. The day-to-day at Columbia Room is handled by Beverage Director JP Fetherston (husband to Angie), while tonight I was served by Head Bartender Suzanne "Suzy" Critchlow.

Critchlow, for her part, graduated with a crafts degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in 2007. She started out in 2008 at New York Deli in Richmond, VA, and worked there for over five years before joining the teams at The Rogue Gentlemen and Postbellum (both also in Richmond). In January 2015, she became Bar Manager at Mike Isabella's Graffiato in Richmond, and in September that year, moved over to Graffiato's DC location. Critchlow stayed until April 2016, when she left for Columbia Room. She was assisted this evening by bar-back Kevin, a former retail worker who's last gig was that of a server at Clyde's.


Columbia Room is comprised of three distinct spaces. The first is the Punch Garden, which is what you see when you first walk up the stairs. There's open seating here for about three dozen guests, and both drink and food are ordered à la carte.


Managed by Dante Datta (Rasika West End), the Spirits Library is a bit more formal, but both food and cocktails are still available à la carte.


The Tasting Room is Columbia Room's flagship experience. There's seating for up to 18 guests at the bar, and menu options are either a three- or five-course cocktail tasting, paired with small bites. Tickets are available on Tock for $79 and $108, respectively (inclusive of gratuity), and there are also add-ons for Champagne ($30), osetra caviar ($100), and canelés ($20).



Tonight's menu was entitled "What Absence Is Made Of," and was inspired by an exhibit of the same name at the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden. That exhibit actually opened the day before, and features works exploring the use of absence in art. The idea was to use the exhibit as a jumping off point to create cocktails and food highlighting different forms of absence and how that can affect expectations and perceptions. Click for larger versions.



1: What Should Be | siembra azul blanco, blanco vermouth, dry curaçao, fig leaf cordial, anise hyssop
1: Sea Buckthorn Flower
Our first course was a play on absence and expectations. Contained in a vase with some non-edible greenery was a flower-shaped chip of dehydrated blood orange with a dollop of sea buckthorn purée, which I was instructed to consume immediately. I found it crunchy, brittle, sticky, with a tart fruitiness that sort of lingered on your palate. The greenery was then removed, and the vase emptied of its contents, which I admit did manage to surprise me a bit. The cocktail displayed a woody, vegetal nose, not surprising given the tequila. Its taste, however, belied the bouquet, instead giving me softly bittersweet, subtly spicy nuances in a complex, contemplative package--you could say that there was an unexpected absence of tequila.




2: Scotch n. | \'skäch\ | b. vodka, oloroso, muir brose, coconut, buckwheat honey, cider, fruit liqueur
2: Rugbrød | cultured butter, citrus
Next was a play on the "idea" of scotch, a sort of faux whisky recreated using vodka and a bevy of other ingredients. I was instructed to pour the contents of the carafe into the vapor-filled glass. The resulting concoction featured aromas that were strong on the smoke and sherry, with dark fruit and oxidation also coming to the fore. The palate, meanwhile, displayed large amounts of stewed fruit, along with nutty-oxidative notes once again from the sherry and a touch of sugariness from the buckwheat honey. I'd say that the cocktail effectively showed off some of the components of scotch, though I wouldn't necessarily confuse it for the real deal. Accompanying the drink was a traditional Danish bread, made darker than usual courtesy of squid ink and cacao and studded with rye berry, flax, and sunflower seed. It was tough to the bite, a gritty, rustic bread with roasty, nutty flavors that seemed to bring out the sweetness inherent in the cocktail. Also on the plate was a nose-shaped mound of goat butter dusted with citrus powder and sea salt, a visual play on the "Body in Pieces" section of the Hirshhorn exhibit. The butter ate soft and delightfully salty, and managed to temper the somewhat harsh nature of the rye bread.


3: Spirit-Free Lion's Tail | seedlip spice 94, lime, maple, aquafaba
Following was a cocktail that was designed to question the very meaning of the term. Does a cocktail necessarily contain alcohol? I'd say it depends on your definition of "cocktail." In any case, this was a riff on the classic Lion's Tail, which traditionally features whiskey and allspice dram. The version tonight was based on a non-alcoholic distilled spirit and an allspice-infused maple syrup. Nose of intense baking spice with pricks of star anise. The taste followed, displaying more sweet spice along with a ginger-y zest and plenty of citric character. I also sampled the Seedlip alone, which Critchlow likened to a "really intense water," one filled with bountiful amounts of floral spice.



4: Clarity | rum, cachaça, madeira, capitoline white vermouth, autumn squash, sugar, lemon, balsam, milk
4: Carbonara | parmesan noodles, ham broth, tapioca
Here was a reference to the exhibit's exploration of voids, incorporating both drink and food that were visually unstimulating, but still packed plenty of punch. The cocktail was a clarified milk punch comprising Banks 5 Island rum, Avuá Amburana cachaça, fresh squash and pumpkin juices, lemon, balsam tree sap, and milk of course, all left to sit overnight, separated, and strained. It smelled very apropos for the season, delivering a comforting amount of sweet, autumnal spice on the nose. The taste, meanwhile, had a sweet, milky character and again more fragrant spice, along with a subtly oxidative element that I enjoyed. Accompanying the cocktail was a bowl of "noodles" frozen in liquid nitrogen with gluten, Idiazabal cheese, tapioca pearls marinated in corn stock, pea blossoms, and a Benton's bacon stock. It was indeed a cozy, satisfying dish, delivering lots of cheesy goodness alongside a rich, hammy broth and a light, herbal, floral note from the blossoms. Nice texture from the tapioca, too.




5: Caffé Corretto Columbia | brandy de jerez, coffee, golden beet grenadine, licorice root, verbena, spicebush
The tasting ended with an homage to Hans Haacke's "Condensation Cube." It featured the use of a Nispira coffee siphon, which flash-infused the cocktail with citrus peel, anise hyssop, and lemon verbena. I found the concoction very appropriate for the cold weather, with its roasty, chocolatey, grainy aromas leading to flavors of dark fruit, warming spice, sherry, and more roast and cocoa. Along with the "coffee" came beet root-licorice cookies. Think gritty, earthy, with a sweet-yet-astringent character.


Last up was a single eggy, caramel-y canelé that I quite enjoyed.


With the tasting completed, I was presented with a number of other menus. First was the à la carte cocktail list from the Tasting Room, featuring over a dozen drinks. This was followed by the menus from the Spirits Library and Punch Garden, both of which feature (the same) food. Click for larger versions.


Hamachi [$16.00] | preserved spruce tips, green strawberries, sea buckthorn
Given all the cocktails I was having, I made sure to order plenty of food to go along. Yellowtail was characteristically fatty, while the piquant combination of spruce, strawberry, and sea buckthorn served as a sharp contrast to the fish.


Daquirac [$16.00] | cognac • pineapple rum • lime • cane sugar • peychaud's • absinthe
I began my second part of the evening with this hybrid of a daiquiri and a Sazerac. It smelled of light citrus, but with a distinctly sugary underpinning. The taste went fruity at first from the pineapple, then transitioned to more astringent, bitter, herbal notes before finishing with the essence of cognac.


Grilled Cheese Sandwich [$14.00] | brioche, smoked cheddar and idiazabal
Spero's take on grilled cheese was fairly classic, as well as comforting--sort of what you want when consuming large amounts of booze. The combination of cheeses was interesting, and had a smoky, almost truffle-y musk to it.


Ghost Dance [$16.00] | calvados • fernet branca • sirop de gomme • sweetgrass • star anise
Next was my favorite of the à la carte cocktails. Nose of wonderfully fragrant sweet spice and light smoke. The taste was bittersweet, herbal, with again a touch of that smoky character all beautifully layered over a base of apple brandy.


Radishes [$8.00] | miso and white soy butter, dried citrus powder
Radishes were spicy and hot, almost bracing in their bitterness, while the soy butter served as a super savory, creamy counterpoint. I actually made my own mash-up and ate the radishes with the sandwich above.


Bamboo [$17.00] | fino sherry • dry vermouth • orange bitters with Champagne float
This version of the classic Bamboo cocktail was definitely on point. Thanks to the Champagne, I got a very pronounced toastiness in the aroma, which was joined by strong notes of apple. Taste-wise, this went in a nutty, oxidative direction, with the bitters and sparkling wine in the background.


Togarashi mixed nuts [$6.00]
An aggressively-seasoned bowl of mixed nuts was a great take on the classic bar snack.


The Shaw Garden [$16.00] | bourbon, black sesame, carrots, coconut water, jamaican bitters, buckspice bitters
The robustly-hued cocktail showed off a nose filled with sweet carrot and baking spice. The palate had more carrot backed by a sesame-fueled nuttiness, along with the sting of alcohol and more spicy, gingery nuances all over the place.


Chicharrones [$6.00]
Chicharrones were spot on, coming out crisp and airy, with a slight tanginess to 'em.


This Is Not a Pinot | pommeau, aged rhum agricole, pu'erh tea, cherrykriek cider, crème de mure
I ended the evening with a complementary taste of one of Critchlow's creations from the Punch Garden. A Pinot Noir-inspired drink, this one had a bouquet brimming with bright berry and a touch of booziness. On the tongue, I got more heat, spice, pepper, and huge amounts of strawberry, along with mint, herb, and an earthiness on the back end.

Not surprisingly, I had a great experience at Columbia Room. The cocktails were fun, and interesting, and contemplative, and tasty, an intersection of technique, creativity, ingredients, and whimsy that made for a very memorable time. Service was excellent as well (but also not stuffy at all), while the food worked, too. I can definitely see why everyone says this is the best bar in town. As for what's next for Drink Company, the group's working on a new restaurant in Georgetown called Reverie that'll be helmed by Chef Spero, so I'll certainly be on the lookout for that come 2018.

Testa (Los Angeles, CA)

November 24, 2017, 7:35 pm

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Testa Restaurant
1111 S Hope St, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213.973.5013
www.testadtla.com
Thu 10/26/2017, 07:35p-10:00p





One of the newcomers to Downtown's booming South Park district is Testa, which grand-opened on September 21st as an Italian restaurant run by Chef Marty Shield (whom we previously encountered over at Gadarene Swine). However, he was out the door after only a few weeks, replaced in mid-October by none other than Sydney Hunter III, a familiar face who was last seen running the kitchens over at Kettle Black and Sawyer in Silver Lake.


Penned by Ricki Kline Design + Build, Testa is situated on the ground floor of a parking garage (a stone's throw from Broken Spanish), in a spot once home to North African-Mexican eatery The Briks, and before that, Il Mare.


Testa's menu has already been reworked by Hunter. Though it still does have an Italian bent, there's further diversity now, befitting the Chef's more Californian sensibilities. Drink-wise, you get cocktails created by Devon Espinosa (who recently did the bar programs over at Sunset & Vinyl, Gusto, and Woodley Proper), a handful of beers, and a compact wine list focused on California-Italy-France. Click for larger versions.


Kang Bang [$13.00] | Jameson / Amaro Montenegro / Lemon / Blueberry Grenadine
We ended up working our way through all of the cocktails, starting with this intriguingly-named number. Not much to the nose on this one, with just light, sweet berry making itself known. The taste went more assertive, conveying a mix of lemon and blueberry over a boozy base of whiskey, with the amaro adding a slight herbaceous element.


Charcuterie and Cheese Combo [$26.00] | Speck, spicy coppa, bresaola, finocchiona + Humboldt fog, cambozola, lamb chopper
Up first was the salumi and cheese plate, which came with smoky walnuts, figs, and slices of crisp 'n' juicy bae pear. Clock-wise from right, we had:

• Bresaola - Rich and salty, and loaded with some almost beef jerky-like flavors.
• Speck - Hammy and lightly smoky, with a bit of a funk to it.
• Spicy Coppa - Slick and fatty for the most part, and there was also a spicy, herbal quality that I enjoyed.
• Finocchiona - Very pleasing bite here, along with a nice porkiness and touch of fennel.
• Lamb Chopper - Easy-eating, with a sweet, buttery, milky taste. Interestingly, I actually found this somewhat reminiscent of Laughing Cow (not necessarily a bad thing).
• Cambozola - Rich and creamy, and brimming with a spicy, salty blue funk that grows on you.
• Humboldt Fog - A Californian classic, this was a relatively light, mild cheese, with a bit of a lactic tang to it.

Sautéed Cauliflower [$11.00] | Romesco, citrus segments, shaved easter egg radish
The cauliflower was one of the more creative preparations I've seen. The peppery, full-flavored romesco really did meld beautifully with the vegetable, and the citrus worked as a sweet, juicy contrast. Raw slices of the cauliflower, meanwhile, provided a further counterpoint, as did the radish.


Dimmi That [$12.00] | Dimmi / Pisco / Salers Aperitif / Lemon / Grapefruit Peel
Another pun-y cocktail displayed aromas of strong citrus layered over a sugary base. The taste was puckering and somewhat astringent, with more citric character meshing with bitter, botanical nuances.


Tai Snapper Carpaccio (wild from New Zealand) [$12.00] | Sliced red grape, thai bird's chili, scallion, colatura vinaigrette, lime
The carpaccio definitely delivered. Firm, meaty cuts of snapper were heightened by the fishy, funky flavors of colatura, with grape and chili adding contrasting sweetness and spice to complete the dish.


Blistered Blue Lake Green Beans [$11.00] | House made calabrian chile paste, avocado, grilled pineapple, achiote dressing
This was another standout largely thanks to that stellar combination of chili paste and annatto, which worked wonders with the green beans. Pineapple added a sweet, juicy accent, while the avocado served to lighten things up.


Hope Passion [$13.00] | Bourbon / Apple Brandy / Amaro Nonino
Next was one of my favorite cocktails this evening. Loads of sweet fruit and caramel on the nose, along with a marked nuttiness. In terms of taste, I got lots of brown sugar joined by bittersweet, nutty notes and a citrus accent.


Crispy Polenta [$12.00] | Roasted yellow corn, shallots, garlic, tomatillo poblano, spiced aioli, cotija cheese
Polenta cakes came out grainy and gritty, with crisp exteriors. I especially liked 'em with the sweet, roasty corn and piquant aioli--nice.


Spaghettini [$23.00] | Sea urchin, katsuobushi dashi
Thin strands of spaghetti had a gratifying bite, and worked without a hitch as a vessel for the dish's rich, umami-filled broth and mounds of briny-sweet urchin.


Adler's Melons [$13.00] | Gin / Aperol / Lemon / Watermelon
Here, I got a definite bittersweetness from the Aperol at the forefront, countered by omnipresent lemon and a finish filled with juicy watermelon.


Cavatelli [$16.00] | King trumpet mushrooms, parmesan gremolata
The pairing of woodsy mushrooms and zippy gremolata worked, as did the firm, slightly chewy pasta shells.


Niman Ranch Porchetta [$26.00] | Fennel pollen, cannellini beans, garlic confit
I was a fan of the porchetta, which ate fatty and tender, with big, bold flavors and plenty of salt and herb. I liked the crispiness on the skin too, not to mention the counterweight provided by the beans.


After Sex [$12.00] | Rye / Amaretto / Benedictine / Cointreau
This provocatively-titled cocktail smelled pleasantly sweet 'n' nutty, with a whisper of alcoholic heat. The taste again showed off the amaretto, as well as a bevy of bittersweet, herbaceous notes and the spiciness of the whiskey.


Sugar Snap Peas [$12.00] | Saba vin cotto, sherry vinegar, feta, mint, fried umbrian lentil
Snap peas were superb, arriving all crunchy and bright, with an excellent mint accent and additional saltiness from the feta. I also appreciated the tanginess imparted by the vinegar, as well as the texture on those fried lentils.


Sea Bream Crudo [$12.00] | Lemon confit vinaigrette, lemon segments, parsley pulp, purple watercress
Slices of sea bream were sturdy and satisfying, their weight evened out by the zesty combination of lemon, parsley, and watercress.


Dual Classic Negroni + White Negroni [$12.00] | Gin / Campari / Sweet Vermouth + Gin / Lillet Blanc / Suze
Next was a Negroni duo. Thick on the palate, the classic preparation featured your expected bittersweetness as well as a botanical character and light ume on the nose. The bianco, on the other hand, had a bouquet featuring light citrus and honey from the Lillet, while its taste was again bittersweet, but also citrusy, floral, and familiar.


Pen Tendrils (with garlic) [$5.00]
Pea tendrils were smoky, bitter, and, regrettably, on the salty side.


NY Steak [$28.00] | Manhattan prime, potato mousseline, pea tendrils, beurre rouge
The tendrils made an appearance here as well, but fortunately the potatoes really worked in reining in their saltiness, making for a rather tasty combination. As for the steak, it was a pretty classic preparation, with good flavor, tenderness, and a decent sear.


Oh Dear [$13.00] | Tequila Blanco / Dry Vermouth / Raspberries / Lemon
This straightforward cocktail did a fine job conveying the earthy, vegetal qualities of the tequila, tempered by the vermouth and fruity, citrusy notes present.


Grilled Grand Marnier Cake [$8.00] | Coconut sherbet, rum glaze, apricot elderflower cordial
In the first of our desserts, a cake teeming with the boozy, orange-y flavors of Grand Marnier was set against the coolness of coconut and that sugary apricot cordial.


Mascarpone Semifreddo [$8.00] | Kahlua cold brew, chocolate croutons
There were robust, in-your-face coffee flavors in our next dessert, along with hints of dark fruit that worked effectively as a foil to that cheesy semifreddo.


Smoke Break [$13.00] | Mezcal / Pineapple / Jalapeno / Lime / Cilantro / Salt
Our requisite mezcal cocktail displayed the considerable smokiness of the spirit, alongside typical pairings of citrus, spice, and pineapple. Interestingly, I even got some vanilla in there.


Peanut Butter Stracciatella [$8.00] | Caramelized bananas
This was a fun one, with boatloads of peanut butter married with the sugariness of caramelized banana. Nice crunchy bits of chocolate up top, too.



Since we came here for a birthday, one of my dining companions made a Momofuku Milk Bar Apple Pie Cake, which was just lovely.


Crack Berry [$12.00] | Vodka / Raspberry / La Croix Berry
We ended with perhaps Testa's most well-known cocktail. It drank pretty much like a berry soda, with nary any booze. Easy-peasy.

Our meal at Testa was actually much more interesting than we'd anticipated, no doubt due to Hunter's revamped menu. The food's Italian-ish, but also much more than that, and the Chef isn't averse to including a Japanese or Mexican flourish when called for. It's a promising direction. As we all know though, Hunter's prone to moving around a lot, so hopefully he's able to stay here for a decent length of time.

Pineapple & Pearls (Washington, DC)

November 29, 2017, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Commerson (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Testa (Los Angeles, CA)

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Pineapple and Pearls Restaurant
715 8th St SE, Washington, DC 20003
202.595.7375
www.pineappleandpearls.com
Thu 10/19/2017, 09:00p-12:00a





For this latest visit to the Capital, the restaurant I was most excited about was Pineapple & Pearls, the new-ish tasting menu-only joint in Barracks Row from DC dining golden boy Aaron Silverman. When I last caught up with the Chef, it was April 2014, and his first place, Rose's Luxury, had been open for just six months. Quite a bit has happened since then, so I'll quickly recap:

• May 2014 - The launch of The Roof Garden at Rose's Luxury, a one-seating-per-night AYCE experience for 8-12 guests.
• Aug 2014 - Rose's gets the #1 spot on Bon Appetit's list of "Best New Restaurants in America."
• Feb 2015 - It's announced that Silverman will be debuting a new place, one that'll operate as a café during the day and a fine dining eatery at night.
• Feb 2015 - Rose's gets the top slot on GQ's list of "25 Outstanding Restaurants of 2015."
• Aug 2015 - President Obama celebrates his 54th birthday at Rose's Luxury.
• Oct 2015 - The Washington Post's Tom Sietsema names Rose's Luxury his favorite restaurant.
• Feb 2016 - The cafe portion of Pineapple & Pearls opens for business.
• Feb 2016 - Silverman gets a semifinalist nomination for James Beard's "Best Chef Mid-Atlantic" prize.
• Apr 2016 - Pineapple & Pearls finally debuts. Head Chef duties are handled by Scott Muns (Rose's Luxury, Volt, 2941), with Kim Janusz (Del Posto) as Pastry Chef.
• May 2016 - Silverman wins "Best Chef Mid-Atlantic" at the James Beard Awards.
• May 2016 - Sietsema declares Pineapple & Pearls his favorite new restaurant in his spring dining guide.
• Aug 2016 - Sietsema gives his maximum of four stars to P&P.
• Oct 2016 - Michelin doles out two stars to Pineapple & Pearls in its inaugural DC guide.
• Jan 2017 - Washingtonian magazine announces that Pineapple & Pearls is the best restaurant in DC.
• Mar 2017 - Silverman agrees to take over David Guas' Bayou Bakery in Capitol Hill's Hill Center, which closes the following month.
• Sep 2017 - Silverman closes the cafe part of Pineapple & Pearls ("Little Pearl"), with plans to relocate it to Hill Center. It should be opening shortly.
• Oct 2017 - Michelin reaffirms its two-star rating for Pineapple & Pearls.

Pineapple & Pearls resides right next door to Rose's Luxury, in a building that was once home to a boutique called Homebody. I sat at the Bar area up front, which accommodates roughly eight diners. There's also the option of the Dining Room and its eight-seater Chef's Counter, which overlooks the kitchen's two-ton custom Bonnet range.


As far as menu options go, guests in the Dining Room and Chef's Counter get an ~11-course tasting menu priced at $280 per head, which includes tax, tip, and beverage pairing from Jeff Faile (Neighborhood Restaurant Group, Fiola/Casa Luca, Palena). The Bar has the same menu, minus the drinks, at $180 all-in. You can of course add in the wine pairing for an extra $100 (or non-alcoholic pairing at $75), as I did. Note also that there's the choice of a traditional pairing or an unconventional one; I asked my server Elizabeth to choose, and she opted for the former. If you're not in the mood for a lengthy tasting menu, P&P also has patio seating, which offers up a short menu of snacks, cocktails, and wine. Corkage is a hefty $60 a pop in the patio, and is not available in the rest of the restaurant. Click for larger versions.


An attractive centerpiece awaited me at the Bar. I was hoping that it'd be somehow incorporated into the meal (à la Alinea), but that wasn't the case.


Canapé duties were handled by a parallelepiped of potato terrine dotted with ossetra caviar, crème fraîche, and lemon zest. It was a delicious bite, one showcasing the cozy, crispy nature of potato and the saltiness of caviar, with the cream and citrus serving as a contrast. It worked with the glass of dry, slightly acerbic, apple-y cava that accompanied it.





1: Chips & Dip | Smoke Mushroom & Huitlacoche / Mole & Garlic Crema / Salsa Verde
Cava Gran Reserva, Gramona, La Cuvée, Penedès, ESP, 2013
The first proper course arrived in a wooden box, which folded out to reveal three different takes on chips 'n' dip. I went from right to left (as recommended), beginning with the smoked mushroom with huitlacoche, topped with chanterelle. It was delightful, displaying a bevy of smoky, spicy, funky flavors in a creamy, crunchy package, all with a tangy finish. In the middle was the salsa verde, which was super bright and tart at first, but had the corn really making itself known on the back end--a great to and fro. Last was a circular chip topped with a 50/50 split of mole negro and garlic crema as well as crumbles of cotija. This one ate beautifully as well, conveying loads of earthiness and smoke from the mole, tempered by the crema and cheese while the finish gave up a lingering heat. Overall a very strong start to the meal, and I could've easily put away a dozen more of these guys.



2: Abalone Panna Cotta
Nigori Sake, Hakutsuru, Sayuri, JAPAN, (720ML)
Next was an abalone panna cotta incorporating abalone bits braised in soy, sake, and dashi. Also present was a vinaigrette made from the reduced braising liquid, shiso, and a dollop of salsify whipped cream. I found the course absolutely teeming with briny, umami notes, which were evened out by the earthiness of that salsify as well as the generous helping of herbs up top. Texturally, I appreciated how the meaty chunks of abalone provided a textural contrast to the smoothness of the panna cotta. On the beverage side of things, I was given an unfiltered sake, which made sense. It showed off creamy, fruity nuances of peach and melon, with rice and alcoholic heat underneath, and its sweetness was actually teased out even further when taken with the food.


3: Barely Cooked Salmon with its Roe & Vin Blanc
Riesling Trocken, Karthäuserhof, Eitelsbacher, Mosel, GER, 2015
Vancouver salmon was cured for 45 minutes, sous vide'd for three minutes, then served with a classic vin blanc studded with tapioca pearls, trout roe, and finger lime. The fish was spot on, its smoky, saline characteristics perfectly matched by the bright, robust flavors of its accompaniments. I especially appreciated all the textural variation in the dish. As for the paired wine, I found it delicious and fun to drink. Fresh fruit flavors were joined by a very pleasant acidity, and the ingredients in the course seemed to make the Riesling even more vivacious.


4: Bass "Veronique"
Riesling Trocken, Karthäuserhof, Eitelsbacher, Mosel, GER, 2015
The second fish course was a winner as well. An homage to the traditional Escoffier dish typically made with sole, we had here bass, shingled with thinly sliced green grapes, with grape chutney and a dressing of parsley, lemon, chamomile, and vouvray. I found the fish meaty, substantial, yet fine-spun with its ocean-y qualities. The accompanying sauce provided a wonderful offsetting piquancy and herbaceousness, while the chutney imparted a sweet-tart element.



Supplement: Grilled Ossetra Caviar [$60.00] | steamed rice bao, pickled green papaya, coconut crème
Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Bzikot, Les Folatières, Burgundy, FRA, 2007
The caviar course was a fun one for sure. Royal ossetra from Bulgaria was smoked for 20 minutes on Virginia oak, then grilled. It was accompanied by a rice porridge bao bun, coconut cream, and a papaya-mango salad. Since I'd never had the roe prepared like this before, I first tried it alone, and got some nutty flavors along with a deep, saline, powerful funk that lingered long and strong; there was also a seaweed-like character that was intriguing. Next, I piled all the ingredients together into an open-faced sandwich of sorts. I got a lovely contrast of both taste and temperature between the caviar and the sweet coconut crème, while the pickled veggies offered both acidity and crunch. Interestingly, the food seemed to smooth out the flavors of the paired Chardonnay, which at first had a buttery, funky, hay-filled nose and a palate heavy on the barnyard, grass, and fruit.



5: Lovage Cavatelli, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Choice of Luxury
Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Bzikot, Les Folatières, Burgundy, FRA, 2007
My next course was also an interactive one, though unfortunately I forgot to snap a photo of the setup, so we'll have to make do with a pic of a fellow diner's spread. We had here cavatelli with chanterelle, porcini confit, lovage sofrito, and puffed buckwheat. To this, there was a choice of three mix-ins: uni from Maine, West Coast paddlefish caviar, or Burgundy truffle. I went with the truffle per Elizabeth's recommendation, and was able to (separately) get a bite of the urchin as well. The end result was a pasta course that was cozy and comforting, but also inventive. The lovage really made itself known, and worked swimmingly as a foil to the intensely woodsy mushroom-on-mushroom action going on. Excellent crunch from those bits of buckwheat, too.



6: Squash Blossom Taco, White Mole & Fried Herbs
Mezcal Paloma
The pairing of a Paloma with this next course seemed apropos. The cocktail showed off a bouquet filled with smoke and citrus, as well as the spice of chile-limón, while its taste went in a vegetal, smoky, citric direction. It worked with taco, while I'd put up against any of the "fancy" ones we have here in LA. A squash blossom was filled with ricotta and Fresno chile, covered in flour, and fried, then topped with fried herbs and julienned Mexican squash. Spread across that thick, hearty tortilla was a white mole with almonds, cashews, habanero, and about 15 other ingredients. Taken all together, this made for no doubt one of my favorite bites of the meal. The interaction between the crispy blossom and its creamy insides was just about perfect, and I loved the sweet, nutty flavors of the mole as well as the creeping heat in the dish.



7: Grilled Australian Wagyu & Summer Vegetables
Rioja Reserva, Imperial, C.V.N.E., ESP, 2012 (MAGNUM)
For our final savory, a top sirloin cut of Australian wagyu was smoked and grilled, then set atop a black olive "tapenade" and sherry vinaigrette. On the side was a bowl of vegetables, which included a smoked eggplant purée, potato, and poached garlic. I was advised to mix the beef right into said bowl, and I complied. The beef had just enough chew to it, as well as a tasty marriage of smoke and fat. The veggies moderated the dish, and I was especially a fan of the potato. Given the Spanish influences in the course, the accompanying Rioja made sense. Lots of pepper and dark fruit on the nose, along with a noticeable alcoholic heat. The palate went dry, tannic, with more pepper, spice, and rich berry notes appearing in the middle.


8: Sun Gold Tomato Sorbet & Gooseberry Jam
This palate cleanser of sorts combined a super intense, true-to-life tomato sorbet with a gooseberry jam. I liked the restrained sweetness in the course, and there was a great touch of saltiness to boot.


9: Pecorino Cake with Pesto Ice Creams
Madeira, Dry Rainwater, Broadbent, POR, NV
The pesto-inspired dessert combined a toasted pine nut-basil-olive oil gelato with warm pecorino pound cake, pecorino fricco, and microgreens. The tri-layer ice cream was superb, and really did recall the classic sauce. It worked flawlessly with the rich, dense pecorino cake (which almost had a donut-like goodness), and I loved the fried shards of cheese as well. For the beverage pairing, I of course tried the sweet, nutty, oxidative Madeira. However, Elizabeth also offered me a glass of the beer from the off-the-beaten-path pairing: the Andechser Doppelbock Dunkel from Klosterbrauerei Andechs. I actually preferred it, with its sweet, malty, grainy notes, distinct nuttiness, and hints of caramel and dark fruit.


10: Fruit Plate
We closed with a reinterpreted fruit plate, one featuring sour, suanmei-like candied quince, smoky brûléed fig, and a fun frozen banana-dark chocolate lollipop.


A complementary cup of macchiato hit the spot.


Takeaway gifts of jam and herbed butter were accompanied by a thank you note from the Chef. Click for a larger version.

Pineapple & Pearls represents a bit of an unconventional take on fine dining, and I have to say that I really enjoyed myself here. Silverman's cooking doesn't necessarily have as much of a modernist aesthetic as you might expect. Rather, the key here is the playfulness of the cuisine, its interplay between traditional and reimagined, how it can simultaneously be both whimsical and elegant. Fittingly, the service had a lighthearted, relaxed quality to it, but at the same time, was always polished and efficient. I can definitely see why a lot of people deem this DC's best restaurant. Indeed, if you ever find yourself in the area, Pineapple & Pearls should for sure be high on your "to-eat" list.

Commerson (Los Angeles, CA)

December 4, 2017, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Sushi Ogawa (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Pineapple & Pearls (Washington, DC)

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Commerson Restaurant
788 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.813.3000
www.commersonrestaurant.com
Sat 10/28/2017, 07:30p-10:40p





Commerson (named after naturalist Philibert Commerson) was a restaurant that I'd been curious to try for a while now. The place was opened in November 2016 by Raymond Eng (Revolution Interactive) and Chef/Partner Sascha Lyon, who'd previously spent five years (2009-2014) at the W Hollywood. Meanwhile, running the FOH is Operating Partner Wes Zelio, whom I last saw over at Taberna Arros y Vi. Lyon left the venture in June though, leaving sous Jose Garcia steering the ship. In October however, a new Executive Chef was announced: Winston Wingfield.

About the Chef: Wingfield hails from Gastonia, North Carolina, and initially came to California to attend culinary school at the CSCA in Pasadena. During his time there, he interned at Angelini Osteria, and ended up returning there upon graduation. This was followed by a short stint at Melisse, and in 2008, he helped Jon & Vinny open up Animal. In 2009, Wingfield got on the opening team for Bouchon, where he worked his way up to sous over a period of five years. While at Bouchon, he also cooked at Rustic Canyon (under Evan Funke) and Red Medicine.

After leaving the Beverly Hills restaurant, he moved to the short-lived Fifty Seven with David Nayfeld, then helped with the development of Barrel & Ashes, which debuted in November 2014. The following year, B&A's Rory Herrmann convinced Wingfield to take the CdC role at Jason Neroni's Catch & Release. Set in Ricardo Zarate's former Paiche space, that restaurant opened in May 2015, but closed just eight months later. The Chef was last seen helping out with private cheffing gigs and assisting his fellow chef friends.



Commerson sits on the ground floor of the Wilshire La Brea apartments, just down the street from Republique. The space was penned by Rita Lyon (wife of Sascha), and features an uncomplicated aesthetic with a hint of modernism.


Commerson's menu has a sort of internationally-influenced, Cal-modern bistro feel to it that fits the neighborhood-y feel of the place. To drink, the wine list leans heavily on France and California, and you also get a few beers as well as cocktails created by Dushan Zaric (co-founder of Employees Only and Macao Trading Co) and Dee Ann Quinones (Westbound, Booker and Dax, 69 Colebrooke Row, The Parlour Room, Philippe Chow, Street), among others. Click for larger versions.


Chicken Liver Mousse [$12.00] | sesame grilled bread, red onion marmalade, chives
We began with a lovely rendition of chicken liver: a smooth, creamy mousse with an elegant earthiness and well-placed stings of salt. It worked beautifully with those crunchy pickles and sugary marmalade. Excellent char and crustiness on the included bread, too. A strong start.


Bella Monica [$14.00] | wildflower infused dolin vermouth, Campari, strawberry puree, fever tree ginger beer
Our first cocktail went down easy: a light, refreshing drink with just enough astringency to keep things interesting and a finish filled with zesty ginger.



Loch Duart Salmon Poke [$17.00] | avocado, tamari-yuzu marinade, tortilla chips
The poke craze continues. I'm tired of it, but this dish definitely worked itself out tonight. The salmon ate lush and fatty, and married well with the simultaneously savory and tart notes from the tamari-yuzu. Avocado added a creaminess to the course, and I appreciated the herbs up top as well. Excellent chips, also.


Sazerac [$14.00] | rittenhouse rye, pernod absinthe, bitters
This straightforward rendition of the classic cocktail delivered a boozy nose brimming with dark fruit and botanicals. The palate was thick, hot, with a sugary base and more bittersweet, herbal notes.


Tuscan Kale, Shaved Brussels Sprouts and Pecorino [$11.00] | red wine vinaigrette, currants, braeburn apples, shallots, toasted pecans
The requisite kale salad was nice enough, giving up a myriad of nutty, sweet, bitter flavors and crunchy textures, with a dosing of salt from the Pecorino. I didn't really get much from the Brussels, though.


Mi Tierra [$14.00] | tequila cabeza, vida mezcal, jalapeno infused chartreuse
A combination of tequila and mezcal made for a pretty intense cocktail. The nose here was decidedly woody, vegetal, with a hint of citrus. The taste followed, delivering more of the same along with some earthiness and an unexpected touch of brine.



Steak Tartare [$16.00] | tonnato, mojama, capers, cornichons, watercress
The tartar made a strong case for itself, and was one of my favorites this evening. The beef had a great texture to it, and its traditional accoutrement of capers was joined by the salty, briny essence of tuna in two forms: tonnato sauce and mojama. The bread, meanwhile, was just as good as it was with the mousse above. Wonderfully smoky, nutty, and crusty, it came from the new-ish Boulangerie de Paris in Boyle Heights.


Sherry Cobbler [$14.00] | gin mare, ruby port, lustau sherry, blackberry syrup
The cobbler was probably the most gluggable of our cocktails. We got flavors reminiscent of both jamaica and Welch's, with lots of grape-y Porto character and astringent, oxidative undertones for contrast.


Sweet Potato Agnolotti [$18.00] | duck confit, poached cranberries, toasted pistachios, browned butter
Our next dish was apropos for the season. The agnolotti were sweet, but fortunately not overwhelmingly so, while mushrooms and a rich confit made for some semblance of balance. At the same time, the addition of pistachios resulted in some nice textural variation.


Dry Martini [$14.00] | frozen ford's gin, carpano vermouth, castelvetrano olive
A traditional take on the dry martini was pretty much just what you'd expect, with the boozy, botanical nature of the gin on proud display. Note that the glass here appears to be the exact same one used for the "Ella Fitzgerald" over at Birds & Bees.


Charred Wild Caught Spanish Octopus [$14.00] | mascarpone, polenta, puttanesca
The octo was a must-try for me, and another favorite. Think meaty and just slightly chewy, with lots of smoky, saline flavors paired with the piquancy of puttanesca, all while the polenta lent a moderating hand.


Cynar Julep [$14.00] | cynar ricetta, grapefruit juice, ras el hanout
A reworked julep definitely showed off the bittersweet, vegetal nature of Cynar, evened out by the application of grapefruit and just a smidge of spice from the ras el hanout.


Seared Atlantic Sea Scallops [$29.00] | english peas, chanterelle mushrooms, pickled lemon, mint, miso
Scallops had a nice cook and caramelization going on, their ocean-y flavors well-matched to the brightness of peas and the woodsy shrooms while the lemon added a very noticeable sourness to the dish.


We moved on to wine at this point, specifically a bottle of the 2015 Syrah Franck Balthazar Crozes-Hermitage, France [$64]. It displayed appealing aromas of dark fruit and strawberry. Taste-wise, things went in a peppery, spicy direction, but with a soft fruitiness to it and a whisper of herb.


Suckling Pig Porchetta [$27.00] | grilled endive, cannellini beans, cranberry beans, pork sauce, apple mostarda
It was now time for our meatier mains. Commerson's take on porchetta arrived juicy, tender, with aggressive seasoning and a good balance between fat, lean, and all the crispy bits. The bitterness of the endive functioned as counterpoint to the pork, as did the beans.


36 Day Dry-Aged Creekstone Farms Rib Eye [$34.00] | duck fat potatoes, caramelized onions, béarnaise
The ribeye was on the thin side, and thus its temperature was a bit over what we'd requested unfortunately. Its taste was as expected though, and I was certainly a fan of the potatoes.


Snake River Farms Skirt Steak [$28.00] | tomato raisins, shishito aioli, romaine hearts
The skirt steak was more interesting. It had a slight chew to it, and I quite appreciated the crunch and lightness of the lettuce, while shishitos added a touch of heat. I also detected what I believe was horseradish and mint in the dish, both of which worked.


Long Island Duck Breast [$32.00] | red wine braised cabbage, spice roasted quince
A delightfully crisp-skinned duck breast came out super flavorful, and had a sort of honeyed, sugary edge to it. The cabbage was a nice pairing, and I quite liked the quince as well. Probably my favorite of the mains.


Complimentary desserts were the work of Pastry Chef Elizabeth "Liz" Sencion, who's been at Commerson since the start. Previously, she worked at Montage Laguna Beach (under Lee Smith), Delphine at the W Hollywood (where set met Lyon), The Peninsula Beverly Hills, Beverly Wilshire Hotel, and Viceroy L'Ermitage Beverly Hills (that's a lotta hotels!). Click for a larger version.


Opera Cake [$10.00] | vanilla cake, coffee, chocolate, whipped cream
Sencion's opera cake displayed a welcomed marriage of chocolate and hazelnut, along with soft, coffee-soaked sponges and just enough whipped cream for balance. Some nice textures here, too.


One of my dining companions brought along a bottle to share with everyone, including the staff: a 2010 Sauternes, which is apparently unlabeled, declassified Château d'Yquem. Aromas were rife with honey, pineapple, and stone fruit. On the palate, think decidedly viscous, with honey, dried apricot, golden raisin, and moderate acidity all leading to a long lasting finish. Yum.


Red Yam Coupe [$10.00] | candy cap ice cream, marshmallow, fried yams, gingersnaps
Now this was a rather autumnal dessert. It had an almost South Asian-y spice to it, one that made sense with the maple-y ice cream and sugary marshmallow. Yams, meanwhile, added a contrast in texture.


Sticky Toffee Pudding [$10.00] | mascarpone ice cream, toffee sauce, nougatine
We ended with the sticky toffee pudding. This was exactly what you'd want, with its hefty flavors of dark fruit and caramel tempered ever so slightly by the mascarpone.

Despite the recent change-up in the kitchen, things seemed to be running quite well at Commerson, with smooth service and no huge hiccups in the food. The cooking's interesting enough without being unfamiliar, which is important given that this is supposed to be a neighborhood type spot. And from what I gather, Wingfield is still working on redoing the menu, so I'd expect more changes in the future.

Sushi Ogawa (Washington, DC)

December 9, 2017, 12:05 pm

≫ Next: ChiMac Star (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Commerson (Los Angeles, CA)

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Sushi Ogawa Restaurant
2100 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington, DC 20008
202.813.9715
www.sushiogawa.com
Fri 10/20/2017, 12:05p-02:30p





Friday was the final day of my recent visit to DC. I needed a lunch place to try before flying out, and ended up going to edomae sushi spot Ogawa. Situated in Kalorama, the restaurant was opened less than two years ago by Chef Minoru Ogawa and General Manager Can Yurdagul (who's also the Chef's son-in-law).

About the Chef: Ogawa Minoru was born and raised in Tokyo, the son of a sushi chef. He began his training around the age of 18 at his father's sushi-ya in the Nippori area of Tokyo, a place that's been open for over 50 years and is currently run by his brother. He eventually came to the States, and then to the District. Here, Ogawa began making a name for himself at Hisago, which opened in 1987 in Georgetown's Washington Harbour development. In December 2000, he helped debut Kenji Akiho's fine dining spot Japone near Dupont Circle (beneath the existing Café Japone). Following, the Chef oversaw the sushi programs at East Coast locations of the Mandarin Oriental for a number of years.

In June 2013, Ogawa finally opened his own place, Sushi Capitol, a small but popular spot in Capitol Hill. Its success allowed him to start work on the higher-end Sushi Ogawa, which launched in February 2016 in the former home of middling Italian eatery Pines of Florence. In May 2016, Ogawa and Yurdagul announced that they would be taking over the old Seasonal Pantry space in Shaw. Dubbed Mirai, the restaurant opened in July this year with an eight-seater sushi bar serving omakase meals that are a bit less formal than those at the Chef's namesake eatery.


Ogawa's lunch omakase is $80 a head, or $60 for sushi only, and there's an à la carte menu available too. For dinner, the flagship ~13-course omakase is priced at $100 and up, and is only offered at the seven-seat sushi bar. There's also an $80 option in the dining room, as well as à la carte. To drink, you get a decently sized sake selection with a lot of small format bottles. You'll also find shochu, three Champagnes, and a surprisingly lengthy beer list. Click for larger versions.


1a: Appetizer - Hotategai
For the first zensai, we had hotate with chrysanthemum, wood ear, and tomato. The scallop ate soft, briny, while the greens imparted a pleasant bitterness to the bite, and the ki kurage a subtle crunch.


1b: Appetizer - Amaebi
Sweet shrimp arrived with a bonito-based tosazu jelly, tomato, potato, and cucumber. The amaebi was delicate in taste, but was heightened by the tangy, savory, and somewhat sweet notes from the jelly. The veggies worked to moderate the strong flavors at play, and I was especially fond of that potato.


1c: Appetizer - Tempura
Next came a few varieties of tempura. Green beans were light and almost fluffy, with a great saltiness, while the red shrimp head ate saline and utterly satisfying. The most substantial portion on the plate was certainly the shima aji (striped jack) cheek, which I found super juicy, briny, and perfectly perked up with a squirt of citrus.


To drink, I had a bottle of Matsuno Kotobuki Nama [$32], a ginjo-class namazake from Tochigi Prefecture's Matsui Shuzoten that I didn't end up getting charged for. Nose of light citrus, subtle herb, and a touch of heat. On the palate I found the sake smooth, dry, with berry fruit and a pleasant acidity. Quite nice.


2: Sashimi Moriawase
The sashimi selection featured five different cuts:

• Sawara - Some king mackerel, a relatively mild-flavored, cleanly-textured fish with a beautiful char.
• Maguro - A classic presentation of lean bluefin that really opened up with a brush of soy sauce.
• Ootoro - Firm, fatty, dense, and nearly melt-in-your-mouth bluefin that really called for a touch of wasabi for balance.
• Ishimochi - Sea trout ate clean and lean.
• Masunosuke - King salmon belly, which was properly fatty, with a creamy, somewhat "sticky" consistency.

3a: Sushi Moriawase
Next was my first plate of sushi, with all pieces already brushed accordingly with house-brewed soy. Going from left to right, top to bottom in the first photo, we had:

• Maguro - Lean blue fin in perfect balance with the shari and shoyu.
• Hata - The grouper had quite a bit of chew to it, along with a minty quality and plenty of 'sabi.
• Katsuo - Wonderfully smoky bonito, with a deep, lingering savoriness. Superbly balanced by the rice, and probably my favorite of the bunch.
• Aka Ebi - Texturally, the red shrimp had a good mix of snap and suppleness, and its subtle sweetness led to strong notes of wasabi on the finish.
• Iwana - The arctic char was easy to eat, though a bit nondescript I'll say.
• Ebodai - Butterfish was definitely full flavored, with a pure, refined, lingering salinity.

3b: Sushi Moriawase
And the second selection of sushi. Left to right in the first photo:

• Ootoro - This almost oozed fat, but had its intensity well-moderated by the rice.
• Uni - Sea urchin from Maine, which I found soft and eggy, with plenty of sweet brine.
• Ikura - A classic presentation of salmon roe, with the nori in full effect.
• Anago - Soft, savory sea eel from Tokyo Bay, with a brushing of sweet sauce.
• Toro Maki - Prototypical fatty tuna rolls were a change of pace from the nigiri.

4: Asari Misoshiru
Next was a classic, clam-enriched miso soup that had a welcomed bitterness from all the greenery.



Shiro Sake + Kawahagi + Hirame [$10.00 + $14.00 + $8.00]
I ended up adding on a few extra orders of sushi. From left to right in the first photo:

• Shiro Sake - The belly of white salmon; think super fatty, creamy, buttery, soft. It was one of the most luscious pieces of fish I've had, and I could actually see this being overwhelming for some diners.
• Kawahagi - A firm, almost crunchy presentation of triggerfish. There was a very apparent mintiness here, and I'd say that it could benefit from a bit more soy.
• Hirame - This was the lean, back end of flounder, close to the fin (but not engawa), with sea salt, shiso, and yuzu spray. Very clean, bright, with strong shiso and accents of salt.

5: Chocolate Mousse
To close: a rich-yet-airy chocolate mousse, with some crunchy bits (cacao nibs?) thrown in for good measure.

I ended up having an enjoyable lunch at Sushi Ogawa, with no major complaints about the food. The rice here was nice, and had a lightness to it that mostly let the neta shine. However, I'd have to experience the top-end dinner omakase here to really give the place a go, of course. As for the team's next steps, they're actually planning on opening an even fancier, omakase-only tasting counter at DC's Mandarin Oriental, which is somewhat interesting given that Ogawa spent many years working for the hotel group. The spot, which I've heard will only have a maximum of eight seats, should be opening in the coming months, so that'll be something to look forward to on my next visit to Washington.

ChiMac Star (Los Angeles, CA)

December 12, 2017, 8:20 pm

≫ Next: Milk Tavern (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Sushi Ogawa (Washington, DC)

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ChiMac Star Restaurant
3054 W 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90005
213.383.0003
chimacstar.wixsite.com/chimacstar / chimacstar.eat24hour.com
Wed 11/01/2017, 08:20p-09:40p





We were on the hunt for fried chicken the night of Game 7, and headed on over to Crawford's in Westlake. That turned out to be a big mistake, given that the place was jam packed, standing room only (with the crowd chanting "Let's Go Dodgers" when I walked in). Disheartened, we looked at other options, and finally settled on the new-ish ChiMac Star after some deliberation. The restaurant opened in late August this year, and as you might expect given the name, focuses on chimaek, or the popular Korean combination of fried chicken and beer.


The restaurant sits on the eastern edge of Koreatown, within spitting distance of the now-shuttered Tofu and Noodles (which I really liked). It takes over the former home of the longstanding Mazinga Z, a sooljib-type place also with a focus on fried chicken. Inside, the setup isn't too different, though the space has been brightened up.


Menu-wise, you get ten varieties of chikin, all of which are available in multiple formats, and these are joined by an array of anju-type dishes. To drink, meanwhile, you'll find your typical spread. Click for larger versions.


Our complimentary snack wasn't very palatable. Think of 'em as a slightly less bland version of packaging peanuts, in ring form.


To drink we had the 2017 Modern Times Perfect Talon, an IPA hopped with Simcoe, El Dorado, Denali, Amarillo, Idaho 7, and Citra. The nose was appealing, with aromatic hops intertwined with sweet, juicy citrus. On the palate, I got a good amount of hop bitterness at first, which was then accompanied by dank, citrusy notes, with the finish giving up more tropical fruit.


Fried Chicken [$9.00] | Half (8 pcs)
We felt compelled to start with the classic, unadorned hulaideu chikin, which I found a touch underseasoned, but still tasty. The drumstick was my preferred part, coming out all tender and juicy, with a properly crunchy skin. The white meat wasn't bad, but definitely ate drier. Cylinders of tteok were a bit of a surprise to see, but I don't think they added much to the dish.


Corn Cheese [$9.00]
The kon chijeu was pretty much on point. The kernels came out sweet and well-textured, and definitely worked as a stage for the hefty, well-charred cheese.


Next to drink came the 2017 Fieldwork Pulp, an unfined, northeast-style IPA with Citra. The nose on this one was surprisingly restrained, with just some light grassy, hoppy notes and a touch of citric sweetness. The palate went it a fairly creamy direction, and displayed more grassiness, subtle hop bitterness, stone fruit, and citrus. Tasty, though not quite as "juicy" as expected.


Wasabi Sauce [$9.50] | Boneless (10 pcs)
The wasabi-glazed chicken was a pleasant surprise. I got a very palpable sweetness at first, but this led to a mild burn from the 'sabi and a finish loaded with lingering sesame. Give it a try.


The crunchy chikin mu (pickled Korean radish) was just what you'd expect.


Our final beer was the 2017 Modern Times Dragon Mask, a churro-inspired imperial stout brewed with cinnamon, cacao nibs, salt, and vanilla that was created in collaboration with Casita Cerveceria. Nose of cocoa, roast, subdued vanilla, and light soy sauce. In terms of taste, I got primarily chocolate and caramel flavors, along with coffee and dark fruit, with a bit of an underlying heat. Nice, but I didn't really get the churro that they were going for.


Honey Garlic Soy Sauce [$10.50] | Boneless (10 pcs)
This last basket of chicken was much heavier than I'd anticipated. The bird was definitely sweet, but also had a sort of malty, almost caramel-y flavor profile that I wasn't expecting (from the honey, I assume). I also didn't get much from the garlic, which I think would've made this a bit more balanced.

The chicken could perhaps use a couple of tweaks, but overall we had a pretty decent chimaek experience here. It's sort of a fun spot, and I wouldn't mind exploring more of the flavors.

Milk Tavern (Los Angeles, CA)

December 14, 2017, 9:55 pm

≫ Next: Koshiji (Torrance, CA)

≪ Previous: ChiMac Star (Los Angeles, CA)

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Milk Tavern Dessert Lounge
528 S Western Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90020
213.568.3770
www.milktavern.com
Wed 11/01/2017, 09:55p-10:55p



After dinner at ChiMac Star, we were in the mood for some dessert and thus moseyed on over to the new Beer Belly-adjacent Milk Tavern. The spot opened in September, and is the work of Alex Dong Wook Sohn's ALMG Hospitality Group, the same company behind the Koreatown outpost of Dongdaemun Yeobgitteogbokki.


Milk Tavern takes over the building that was last home to the short-lived Horse's Mouth. The space retains the same basic layout and decor, though it's been made more lively by the addition of a ping pong table, board games, Nintendo, and a bean bag toss in the faux grass-covered patio (replete with inflatable flamingo).


Menu-wise, you get 19 different cereals and numerous toppings, available in three formats. This is joined by alcoholic ice creams, which is more what we were in the mood for on this particular evening. Beverages include a few easy-drinking wines, a range of bubbly, and a surprisingly good selection of craft beer (probably one of the better ones in K-Town). Do note that our meal ended up being on the house tonight, as we happened to run into a friend of the owner while waiting in line ("oh you know JT?"). Click for larger versions.


Tequila Lime Sorbet [$4.90]
We began with this refreshing sorbet, which was almost like a frozen margarita. Think sweet 'n' sour, with a toasty, crunchy cereal counterpoint from the sprinkles of Jolly Pong (a puffed wheat snack).


Kahlua & Coffee/Jameson + Artisanal Waffle Cone [$6.90 + $1.50]
Next were scoops of Kahlua and Jameson served in what I believe was a fruity cereal cone. The Kahlua had some very in-your-face coffee notes, which I actually appreciated, and there was just the slightest hint of booze. The Jameson, on the other hand, was surprisingly delicate and fruity, with nary a trace of alcohol.


Cabernet Sorbet [$4.90]
A Cabernet Sauvignon-infused sorbet was decidedly fruit forward, with some pleasant red berry flavors.


Guinness Stout/Maker's Mark [$6.90]
Guinness gave our next ice cream a lightly roasty, malty quality. Meanwhile, the Maker's Mark version might've been my favorite of the bunch, with a lovely floral character and traces of black cherry.


A (somewhat flaccid) flamingo ice cream holder for the 'Gram.


Our overall spread. Milk Tavern even provides you with the proper hashtag to use.


Frozen Rosé
Speaking of Instagram, you'll want to make use of the new (faux) foliage-covered wall that was installed. Seen above is an off-menu item of frozen rosé topped with gold foil-dusted sugar crystals, which was as fun as it sounds. The slushy concoction showed off boatloads of strawberry, though you could still taste the wine, while the sugar on top added a sweet crunch to complete the experience.

I was curious to see what would take over the old Horse's Mouth, and Milk Tavern seems like a worthy replacement. It's an entertaining spot, and the boozy ice creams are certainly fun. Next time I gotta come back and get my cereal game on, and perhaps try a beer or two, too.

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Koshiji (Torrance, CA)

December 15, 2017, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Chapter One (Santa Ana, CA)

≪ Previous: Milk Tavern (Los Angeles, CA)

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Yakitori Koshiji Restaurant
22807 Hawthorne Blvd, Torrance, CA 90505
310.378.3787
www.koshijiusa.com
Tue 11/07/2017, 08:00p-10:30p





My latest craving for skewered chicken led me to the South Bay once again, and specifically to Koshiji, which had been on my to-try list for a couple years. The restaurant comes to us courtesy of 40-year yakitori veteran Nagayuki Ebata and wife Kiyomi. The Chef came up in the Tokyo area, and cut his teeth at a yakitori branch of the Miyagawa restaurant chain. He moved Stateside in 1983 to cook at Nanbentei, located in Little Tokyo's Weller Court. His intent was to work a couple years there, travel the US on motorcycle, and return to Japan. Obviously that never happened. The Chef later helped open the still extant Sakura House near Venice, and in 2000, took over the Nanbentei space and turned it into his own spot, Koshiji. The restaurant did well, which allowed Ebata to debut this Torrance outpost in May 2010. In January 2015 however, he shuttered the original Koshiji, and the space is now home to Torigoya (a.k.a. the new Kokekokko).


This address was previously home to Shin Yakitori (which opened in August 2007 and closed at the start of 2010), and the kushiyaki-focused Monjiro before that. The decor hasn't changed much since the Shin days.



Menu-wise, you of course get a variety of skewers, both chicken-based and otherwise, and these are joined by a large array of accompanying dishes. To drink: your typical Japanese beers, mystery wine, some shochu, and a small sake selection (which includes Asahiyama, Ebata's favorite). Corkage is $15, though we were only charged once. Click for larger versions.


We had a couple beers with us. Our first was the 2017 J. Wakefield Project X, a sour ale aged in bourbon barrels with Brett and cherries. Intense nose filled with oak, funk, fruit, and a bracing balsamic tartness. The taste showcased lots of wood, along with cherry, barnyard, and vinegar-y acidity. I got a slight vinous quality, too.


A complimentary serving of crunchy cabbage with a tangy, umami-rich miso dip.


Chicken Soft Bone [$3.00]
We began our gauntlet of bird parts with nankotsu, which showed off its trademark crunch paired with a good amount of meat. A promising start.


Chicken Gizzard [$2.00]
And speaking of crunch, the sunagimo also gave us its interpretation of the texture, providing the expected marriage of crisp and chewy consistencies. I really appreciated the pin points of salt on the gizzard as well.


Chicken Tail [$3.00]
The bonjiri is one of my favorite cuts, and it didn't disappoint tonight, a fatty, super flavorful presentation with a satisfying bite to boot. And again, nice hits of salt here. Always a treat.


Eggplant w/ Pork [$2.50]
Nasu-maki arrived soft, smoky, and well matched with the salty crunch of bacon. Surprisingly good.


Chicken Wings [$3.50]
We had to get the tebasaki of course, which managed to be no doubt one of the most scrumptious bites we had. Superb charring going on here.


Potato w/ Butter [$3.00]
The jaga-bata was one of the more unusual selections on offer. It tasted like a really buttery mashed potato, but with a delightful crisp skin.


Chicken Neck [$3.00]
The seseri had a milder taste I'll say, along with a pleasant chewiness to it.


Chicken Meat Ball [$2.50]
The tsukune made for a nostalgic course, sort of reminding me of the meat patties I ate growing up. Think juicy and savory, with a great tang from the use of what I believe was green onion.


Chicken Heart [$3.00]
Hatsu arrived earthy and snappy to the bite, with a noticeable sweetness.


Green Beans w/ Pork [$2.25]
I'm a big fan of green beans in general, so I was curious about the ingen-maki. I got a welcomed brightness from the veggie that really went along with the smoke and salt of that crispy bacon.


Chicken Breast w/ Shiso [$2.50]
Sasami was a touch on the dry side unfortunately, though it did have a fitting accompaniment in the form of that shiso.


Shiitake Mushroom [$2.50]
Shiitakes were soft and woodsy, with a sweetish bent.


Next to imbibe was the 2017 Angry Chair Lunar Lycan, a lactose-boosted, marzipan-inspired imperial sweet stout with toasted almonds and coffee, created in collaboration with Omnipollo. This one smelled nice, with aromas of roasty coffee, dark fruit, and caramel. The beer drank smooth, creamy, with a caramel-y, nutty sweetness finished by more coffee.


Beef Tongue [$2.75]
The gyutan conveyed its signature chew, as well as boatloads of smoke-kissed beefiness.


Okra [$2.50]
Okra was light on the slime, its relatively restrained flavors taking kindly to the char, as well as the dish's sweet dipping sauce.


Squid w/ Shiso Leaf [$3.95]
The ika was more rubbery than I'd prefer, though I did like its subdued smoke and mintiness from the shiso.


Chicken Skin [$2.50]
I was a fan of the torikawa and its mix of crispy, charred bits and fat.


Shrimp [$3.95]
Fortunately, the ebi wasn't overcooked, coming out meaty and well-textured. The smokiness on this one was light, so as to not mask the shrimp's sweetness and brine.


Duck [$2.75]
Our kamo wasn't particularly "ducky," but gave up a noticeable sweetness that matched well with the included negi.


Scallop [$3.95]
Unfortunately, the hotate was cooked more than I would've liked, and was thus on the chewier side. Flavors were fairly intense, and came mostly from the sauce. Note that some of the innards were still left on the adductor, resulting in some more textural variation.


Zucchini [$2.00]
Zucchini was bright and juicy, with just enough sear to keep it interesting.


Salmon [$2.75]
The sake was on the overdone side sadly, though I did appreciate its pairing of onion.


Beef [$2.25]
The gyu was also overcooked, coming out rather tough. Flavors were overly sweet as well, and I didn't really taste much of the actual beef.


Enoki Mushroom w/ Pork [$2.50]
Texturally this was one of the most gratifying bites we had. I loved the sensation of all the mushrooms tightly bundled together, set against the salty, smoky crunch of their bacon wrapper.


Special Chicken Heart [$3.00]
The first of two "secret" menu items we had, the hatsumoto was a special part of the chicken heart, and indeed it had an extra "hearty" chew to it, as well as a particular sweetness.


Chicken Intestine [$2.50]
The horumon was also quite sweet, and had a slick, gelatinous consistency accented by touches of crisp char. Note that there was a third "secret" item, the tori harami (diaphragm meat), though the kitchen had run out of it.

Another yakitori joint crossed of my list. I had a few complaints with some of the items, though they mostly had to do with the non-chicken skewers, and overall we enjoyed the meal. Stick with the tori and veggies, and you should have a very solid experience.

Chapter One (Santa Ana, CA)

December 20, 2017, 7:10 pm

≫ Next: Sushi|Bar (Encino, CA)

≪ Previous: Koshiji (Torrance, CA)

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Chapter One: The Modern Local
227 N Broadway, Santa Ana, CA 92701
714.352.2225
www.chapteronetml.com
Sun 11/19/2017, 07:10p-09:20p





Downtown Santa Ana has witnessed a sort of revitalization over the past few years, and one of the first of the new wave of restaurants to open in the area is Chapter One, which debuted on Saint Patrick's Day 2011. Situated in the Artists Village section of DTSA, it's the work of partners Jeff Hall, Jeff Jensen, and Tim O'Connor, who all worked together at Auld Dubliner. Hall also helped open Haven Gastropub in Orange, and is the main mastermind behind Chapter One (the two Jeffs also partnered up for the nearby C4 Deli, which opened in 2013). The loosely library-themed restaurant serves up global, gastropub-type food, and its kitchen was initially helmed by Detroit native Oge Dalken. Dalken, however, ended up leaving, and was replaced by current chef Jason Montelibano (a.k.a. "Chicken Wang") in October 2013.

About the Chef: Montelibano was born in the Philippines, raised on the Filipino cookery of his mom and grandmother. He eventually came to the US, and ended up going to culinary school at Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena, graduating in 2008. Following, he got a job at the Island Hotel in Newport Beach, where he worked under David Man for two years. Montelibano then got on the opening team at Chapter One, actually starting out as a dishwasher before cooking his way up the ranks. He became Executive Chef at the tail end of 2013, but would end up leaving the following November to take over the newly-remodeled Eats Kitchen & Bar at the Hotel Irvine. He was replaced (finally) in August 2015 by Greg Moro, but Moro decamped himself at the end of January 2016. The kitchen was run by sous chefs Cameron Cortese and Armando Rios before Montelibano made his return in September that year. Rios, meanwhile, is still on board, and is joined by fellow sous Tony Castaneda.



Chapter One sits in the 1925 vintage Pacific Building, in the former home of bookstore Libreria El Hispano. It's a fairly large space, with lots of light wood throughout.


In the back is a private dining room dubbed The Red Room (it's not hard to see where that moniker came from), which is available for parties of up to 50 guests.


As far as the menu goes, Chapter One focuses on pubby fare with a multicultural influence. In addition, there are also separate lunch and weekend brunch menus, as well as happy hour and late night selections. Click for a larger version.



There are many options in terms of beverages. The literary-inspired cocktail list--the work of Bar Manager Timothy Morley and Bartender Joe Sanchez--reads interestingly enough, and has a particular focus on mules. You also get a small New World wine list, 13 beers on tap, and a spirits selection with a surprisingly formidable array of whiskies. Click for larger versions.


Shrimp Taquitos (3) [$9.00] | salsa a la diabla, avocado crema, radish slaw, queso fresco
The taquitos made for a strong start, and the star was definitely the shrimp. It was cooked just right, and took well to the richness and heat from the salsa while still retaining its signature brine. I also got a nice crunch from the tortilla, while the cheese added a much appreciated hit of the salt to the dish.


Buffalo and the Mousse [$12.00] | Buffalo Trace, Pamplemousse liqueur, Lime, Grapefruit, Angostura Bitters
This first cocktail managed to be my favorite of the bunch. It smelled wonderful, giving up notes of juicy grapefruit intertwined with spice. On the palate I got more refreshing citrus, a touch of medicinal character, and some herb, all set over the booziness of the bourbon.


Roasted Cauliflower [$12.00] | lardons, golden raisin béchamel, caramelized onions, poblano crema, toasted pine nuts, radish
Cauliflower arrived smoky and crisp, though unfortunately the flavors here were on the duller, muddled side. The lardons contributed a definite weightiness to things, and I wanted more brightness, more acidity, more punch.


Animal Farm [$12.00] | Monkey Shoulder Scotch, Drambuie, Orgeat Syrup, Lemon, Angostura Bitters
I enjoyed reading Orwell's Animal Farm as part of my high school curriculum, though I'm not sure exactly how the book relates to this cocktail. In any case, the drink had a straightforward nose filled with fresh, zesty citrus and a touch of honey. The taste was sweet and spicy, with a subtle booziness at first that only grew more intense toward the finish.


Lumpia [$10.00] | ground pork egg rolls, pickled vegetables, green chili sauce
Slender lumpia were spot on, with their mouthwateringly juicy, savory pork filling and crisp wrappers. They were delicious alone, but really sang with a dip into that intensely sour, spicy sauce on the side. Nice acidity from the pickles, too.


Aldesoro [$12.00] | DeLeon Platinum Tequila, Crème De Violette, Maraschino Liqueur, House Simple, Lemon Juice
Our next cocktail was basically a tequila-based Aviation. Its nose conveyed cherried, nutty notes, with a hint of astringency and overarching citrus. In terms of taste, think sweet and floral, but also bracing, with the maraschino really making itself known.


Sisig Fries [$12.00] | pulled pork, pig ears, pork belly, pig jowl, salsa criolla, citrus sour cream, fried egg
Sisig-laced fries were hard to resist. The aggressively-flavored, crispy shards of pork really went hand-in-hand with the acidity of the pickled onions, while the runny egg contributed a lush, moderating element. And the actual fries? Just right. You'll probably want to get this.


We then ordered a serving of Thomas Handy Sazerac [$22] from the Fall 2016 release. Wonderfully aromatic nose brimming with honey, cocoa, and lush toffee, along with hints of rye spice. On the tongue, I found plenty of heat, along with lots of rich stone fruit, caramel, and more peppery spice. Really nice.


Sticky Icky Pork Belly Buns (2) [$13.00] | 72-hour brined duroc pork belly, sticky-spicy soy & sesame glaze, crunchy kimchi, fried jalapeño, chinese steamed buns
Montelibano's interpretation of the ubiquitous pork belly buns worked. The pork itself was well-seasoned, and showed off a good mix of fat and lean that lent itself well to the dish. The meat's glaze gave a sort of savory-sweet flavor profile that was expected, but effective, while the veggies provided that necessary brightness and crunch.


Royale with Cheese [$16.00] | Stemple Creek Ranch grass-fed beef patty, secret sauce, Tillamook cheddar, whole grilled onion, sliced tomato, spiced pickles, shredded lettuce, brioche bun, duck fat fries
The burger hit the mark as well. It all starts with the meat, which comes from Electric City Butcher just down the street at 4th Street Market. The patty had a particularly concentrated beefiness to it, along with plenty of char, and meshed perfectly with the cheddar. Meanwhile, the "secret" sauce imparted just a touch of tartness, while the veggies and pickles completed the experience. Classic, but still interesting.


Uncommon Grounds (the Cold Fashioned) [$12.00] | Rittenhouse Rye, Angostura Bitters, Chocolate Bitters, Housemade Cold-Brewed Coffee
Our final cocktail was this coffee-enriched Old Fashioned. Its bouquet was distinctly citrus-y, with roast and bitterness in the background. The taste showcased more coffee of course, along with dark fruit, herbs, and rye spice.


Strawberry Butter Cake [$10.00] | vanilla butter cake, macerated strawberries, lavender ice cream
We ended with the butter cake, which arrived warm, rich, and moist, at least in the center. Its vanilla flavors certainly made sense with the strawberries, but the star of the show for me was definitely that perfume-y lavender ice cream.

Chapter One had been on my "to-eat" list for at least a few years now, and I'm happy that I finally made it out. The food is in effect elevated bar fare, with a playful, international slant, and definitely hit the spot for the most part. The restaurant's beverage program is also worthy of praise, and at the end of the meal we were already talking about how it might be worth it to come back just for that. Overall this is a very solid spot, and I can see why it helped usher in a new era of dining here in DTSA.

Sushi|Bar (Encino, CA)

November 30, 2017, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Woodley Proper (Encino, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Chapter One (Santa Ana, CA)

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Sushi | Bar at Woodley Proper
16101 Ventura Blvd, Encino, CA 91436
818.876.0818
www.sushibarla.com
Thu 11/30/2017, 09:00p-11:20p



Los Angeles is, without a doubt, a sushi town, with options available in a wide range of styles and price points. The generically-monikered Sushi|Bar, however, stands out from the rest. The place comes to us from the sometimes incomprehensible mind of Chef Phillip Frankland Lee, who launched the spot at the end of June. It's billed as a "sushi speakeasy" of sorts, hidden in the back of Lee's Woodley Proper on the second floor of the Encino Place Shopping Center. Apparently, the Chef grew up eating high quality nigiri in the Valley, and had always wanted to open his own non-traditional sushi omakase restaurant, so here we are today.

Sushi|Bar runs Wednesday through Sunday, and when it first opened, you actually had to visit Woodley Proper in-person and add your name to a chalkboard waitlist in order to get in. Fortunately, that's no longer the case, and you can now get (same day) reservations on Tock for seatings at 5:00, 7:00, and 9:00. Note, however, that there's also a "membership club" to Sushi|Bar wherein members can make reservations two months in advance and request special dishes. It was not made clear to us how one gains entrance into this club.

Leading the charge day-to-day is Chef Kirk Sandel, a Granada Hills resident who was born in San Diego to a Filipino father and Japanese mother. He began cooking at age 16, graduated from the Pasadena outpost of Le Cordon Bleu, and then found work at Kendall's Brasserie, staying there from 2002 to 2003. This was followed by a stint at Roy's in San Diego in 2004, the famed Sushi Ota in 2005, and Nobu Honolulu in 2006. In 2009, Sandel took a bit of a detour from cooking and enrolled in the respiratory care program at Concorde Career College in North Hollywood. He worked at Mia Sushi in Eagle Rock during this period, and following graduation in 2011, went back to cooking at Izakaya M on Ventura. The Chef later worked at Gyoro-Gyoro in Palm Springs, Off The Shelf Catering, Blue Ribbon, and Soca in Sherman Oaks before joining Lee's team in February this year.

Assisting behind the bar is Wasu Palipote, a Thai native who was previously in a band in his homeland. After moving to the US, he settled in San Diego for a couple years (largely surfing), then went to school for sound engineering before trying his hand at cooking. He started out at a restaurant over in Moorpark, but left the place given the long commute from his home in Koreatown. Palipote later interned at Midori in Encino, Dojo in Sherman Oaks, and even at Cassia before landing at Sushi|Bar three months ago.

The beverage program, meanwhile, is run by Benjamin Schrader, who helped open Pacific Seas at Clifton's. He's also a magician (who's spent considerable time at the Magic Castle), theatrical performer (The Book of Mormon, Avenue Q, Ragtime), film/television actor, and puppeteer--a quintuple threat! In addition, Schrader runs Magic|Bar, a Mondays-only sleight-of-hand showcase-cum-cocktail experience that started in September. Rounding out the team is Sophie Arrick Lewis, who serves as the Concierge for Sushi|Bar and handles the billing.


Upon entering, you'll go over and see Lewis, who's stationed next to Sushi|Bar's exit (you enter through the rear). There, you'll inform her of any preferences/dietary restrictions as well as whether or not you'd like to do the beverage pairing. You'll also get a token (Japanese yen) for your welcome cocktail.


You'll then head over to the Woodley Proper bar and redeem the token for that aforementioned welcome cocktail, which tonight was the Tozai Typhoon, comprised of Tozai sake, Suntory Toki whisky, ginger syrup, and lime juice. I got a "salted plum" character with the drink, which I'm guessing comes from the interplay between the sweet, ricey flavors of the sake and the more savory, smoky qualities of the whiskey.


With our cocktails all drunk up, we met up again with Lewis, who then led us through the back of Woodley Proper and into Sushi|Bar. The space is ostensibly inspired by 1930s-era Japan, and is pretty cozy with its eight-seater bar.


As for the menu, it's a 17-course omakase at $110 a head. Also offered are some pricey supplemental dishes, and you can get repeats of anything you particularly enjoyed. Drink-wise, there's a $55 pairing, which includes a selection of sake, cocktails, and beer (these are also available à la carte, as are pours of Japanese whisky). Click for a larger version.


1: West Coast Oysters
We began with a Hama Hama covered with Italian sturgeon caviar, shari"Rice Krispies," and whipped nigorizake, served in a masu. Its taste was fruity at first due to the nigori, but this quickly transitioned to the strong, long-lasting brine of the oyster, while the crisped rice served as a contrast in texture. Accompanying was a sake: Chiyonosono, a junmai ginjo from Kumamoto Prefecture. With its initial sweet, melon-y, and floral notes, it linked up with the espuma at first, but also displayed a bit of a salinity matching that of the oyster.


2: Blue Fin Tuna & Krasnaya Ikra
Next was Spanish bluefin tail tartare, sandwiched in crispy nori and topped with avocado mousse, house-cured salmon roe, and scallion. The fish definitely had a richness, a lusciousness that pervaded it, along with plenty of umami. This was kept in check by the lightness of the avocado, and especially the zippiness of the negi, making for a balance bite. Great crispness from the seaweed, too.


3: Japanese Yellowtail
Lightly scored hamachi belly was smeared with corn pudding, then sprinkled with sourdough breadcrumbs (made by Margarita Kallas-Lee) and seasoned with housemade soy sauce and wasabi. This was a standout for me, largely thanks to the seamless interaction between sweet corn, spicy wasabi, and the firm, fatty fish. I also appreciated the crunch of the crumbs. With this course, Schrader paired the Otokoyama junmai, which I found filled with tropical fruit, flowers, and a solid acidity to counteract the richness of the yellowtail (and the tuna to follow).


4: Blue Fin Toro
Bluefin belly was lightly scored, then adorned with brown sugar and a small slice of pineapple. The whole thing was seared, and laced with soy and wasabi. The cut was as luxurious and fatty as you'd expect from o-toro, but what took this over the top was the smoke and sear, and how that married with the ever-present sweetness in the course. Great counterpoint from the rice as well. Excellent.


5: Scallop
Hotategai from Canada was served with a blend of two sauces: nuoc cham (in the form of a fish sauce vinaigrette) and leche de tigre (ceviche marinade). The combination of the two was pretty special, and gave up a sour, fishy flavor profile laced with a persistent funk. It was aggressive, but managed not to overwhelm that sweet, meaty scallop.


6: Mexican White Prawn
I managed to forget to take a photo of the next course, which is a shame considering it was one of my favorites of the night. Ama(ebi) was marinated for three days in chermoula, then lightly cooked with the shell on Scratch Bar's wood-fired grill. It was then dressed with lemon, homemade matcha salt (with dehydrated shiitake and kelp), 'sabi, and shoyu. The idea was to create a "best of both worlds" scenario in one bite, with the flavor of cooked shrimp and the texture of raw shrimp, and I have to say that it was a success. Flavors were robust, savory, lightly smoky, while textures combined both creaminess and snap--superb. The course came with our first cocktail, which Schrader named the Red Seal of Shimoda after the port of Shimoda, apparently the first to import whiskey in Japan. The drink blended Suntory Toki, pomegranate, port, lemon, and housemade smoked honey, all shaken over ice, while the ochoko containing the drink was dusted with the same matcha salt used on the prawn. It worked, with prominent flavors of dark fruit and smoke finished with a blast of salt from the rim.


7: Spanish Octopus
Whole baby octopus was braised for 12 hours in pineapple and garlic, dressed with sweet soy, charred, and given a squirt of lemon. The end result was a tasty, tender preparation of tako loaded with bountiful amounts of sweetness and smoke.


8: New Zealand Salmon
Next came salmon belly, seared skin-on, then capped with pickled lemon, wasabi, and soy. And in lieu of sushi rice, we had instead a prawn tartar. I found this super flavorful and oh-so fatty, with a superb char on the skin to boot. The actually prawn made for an effective base, too, working as a cool, creamy contrast to the fish.



9: "Smoked" Albacore
This was an ode to the ubiquitous albacore preparation that we're all familiar with, you know the one, drenched in ponzu and crispy onion. Here, the tuna was smeared with roasted garlic purée and Himalayan rock salt, and wrapped in nigori-soaked nori. It was then grilled to crisp up the seaweed, and topped with soy, scallion, fried onions, and wasabi. I was a big fan of all the smoky, savory flavors at play here, as well as the dish's smidge of onion-y sweetness and piquancy from the negi and wasabi. And as for the paired beverage, we had a so-called Oolong-Lo, a play on the traditional Oolong-Hai. The classic drink blends shochu and tea, so what Schrader did here is remove the water, steeping the oolong directly into shochu to create a stronger drink. To even things out, he garnished the cocktail with a sweet, thick ginger foam and a borage flower.


10: King Crab Dynamite
Russian king crab leg was brushed with a beet mustard, brûléed in order to caramelize the sugars, then covered with lemon juice, rock salt, and puffed red quinoa. I loved the earthy sweetness of the beet, and how that complemented the inherently sweet and briny nature of the crab. A wonderful pairing, and another favorite.



11: Wild Japanese Escolar
Scored escolar was finished with thin-sliced jackfruit, house-cured ikura, scallion, wasabi, and soy. Texturally, I found the fish both soft, yet substantial, while its flavors were somewhat sweet, but with a salty finish and a nice brightness from the green onion. Schrader paired the escolar with a tart, bright, super refreshing cocktail comprising raspberry and lychee muddled into umeshu, with added shochu, sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, and fresh sage.


12: Bone Marrow
Next was the most unconventional neta of the night: roasted ox marrow seasoned with wasabi, soy, and rock salt. Not surprisingly, I found this ultra rich, decadent, with an almost mushroom-y earthiness to it and a foie gras-esque finish. Given the marrow's considerable heft, the rice was absolutely key as a counterweight.


13: Dry Aged Sirloin
American wagyu sirloin was dry-aged for 12 days, rolled in warm sushi rice, then dressed with rock salt, wasabi, and soy sauce. The resulting taste was concentrated and beefy, as you'd expect, but I also found a welcomed sweetness, and much appreciated the tang of the wasabi as well. Also, in terms of beverages, we were provided with unlimited pours of Echigo beer from here on.


14: Foie Gras & Santa Barbara Sea Urchin
Our "pre-dessert" consisted of olive oil-toasted sushi rice with sambuca- and absinthe-cured foie gras, Santa Barbara sea urchin torched with brown sugar, lemon, matcha salt, sweet-n-sour onion, and scallion. It all made for a heavy, but delightfully multifaceted bite. There was a smart sweet-savory thing going on, and I loved the texture on the charred rice. Lovely accent from those tart, pickle-y onions, too.


15: Santa Barbara Sea Urchin
"Dessert" came in the form of soy sauce-marinated avocado rolled in puffed amaranth, with Santa Barbara urchin and a brûléed yuzu "marshmallow." The whole thing resembled an uni and avocado s'more, and had a sort of nutty-sweet flavor profile, with a definite creaminess from the avocado and a grittiness from the seeds. This was probably the most polarizing course of the evening.


Supplement: Jellyfish [$12.00]
At this point we decided to tack on all the available supplements to our meal. The kurage was fantastic texturally, with a super satisfying crunch, while its mild flavors were amped up by the application of citrus and scallion.


Supplement: Shima Aji [$12.00]
Striped jack from Tsukiji market was garnished with julienned myoga, wasabi, and homemade soy. The fish had a wonderful bite to it, while its sweet, briny flavors meshed beautifully with the zestiness of the Japanese ginger.


Supplement: Peruvian Scallop & Black Truffle [$12.00]
Purple Peruvian scallop came accompanied by housemade yuzukosho, Himalayan salt, soy, and a healthy amount of Italian black truffle. I was afraid that the truffle might overpower, but its woodsy flavors actually worked surprisingly well with the scallop's natural sweetness. I didn't detect much from the yuzukosho, though.



Supplement: "Kobe" Beef [$35.00]
What was advertised as Kobe beef was, unsurprisingly, not actually the real deal, but instead came from Gunma Prefecture. That being said, it was still just as delicious, an unabashedly rich, fatty cut of meat with a sweetness to it that paired swimmingly with accoutrements of soy, salt, and scallion especially.


Supplement: New Zealand Salmon [$8.00]
We requested a "special" piece of sushi, and this was what Chef Sandel came up with: salmon, seared with lemon-garlic butter, then finished with soy, rock salt, katsuobushi, and scallion. I certainly enjoyed the fatty, creamy consistency of the fish, and how that played with the tartness of lemon, all while the scallion provided a touch of astringency on the back end.


16: Matcha Latte White Chocolate
Our "proper" dessert came from Kallas-Lee: matcha latte and white chocolate were formed into a bittersweet pyramid of sorts, then filled with passion fruit and yuzu.


17: Green "Tea"
Lastly, Schrader prepared a "juicy and boozy" tea featuring matcha, plum wine, yuzu, and hot Omachi sake in place of water. Think warm, cozy, fruity, and roasty, a fitting conclusion to the meal.

I've visited a good number of our City's more celebrated sushi destinations, but I've never experienced anything quite like Sushi|Bar, which is actually a great thing. The restaurant's new wave interpretation of sushi veers toward the playful, creative, somewhat irreverent side, but still maintains the ethos of the cuisine, which is key. Basically, the team's able to meld the traditional sushi bar meal with a lot of the elements that people like about Scratch Bar. Some purists may scoff at this notion, but it's all fine by me. Sushi loving Angelenos should certainly give this place a try. Maybe you'll love it, maybe you'll hate it, but it'll be a new experience at the minimum.

Woodley Proper (Encino, CA) [2]

November 30, 2017, 11:20 pm

≫ Next: The Smoking Ribs (Garden Grove, CA)

≪ Previous: Sushi|Bar (Encino, CA)

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Woodley Proper Bar & Restaurant
16101 Ventura Blvd, Encino, CA 91436
818.906.9775
www.woodleyproper.com
Thu 11/30/2017, 11:20p-12:00a



We recently checked out Phillip Frankland Lee's new sushi bar, Sushi|Bar. The place is situated in the back of Woodley Proper, so given that we were already here, we made it a point to sample some of Woodley's new menu.


And speaking of that menu, there have been some fairly significant updates, both in terms of food and beverage. I feel like things have been streamlined, focused. Click for larger versions.


Old Fashioned [$13.00] | Rye, Demerara, Bitters
We'd arrived early for our Sushi|Bar reservation, and so we opted to get a few things going at the bar during the wait. First was Woodley's take on the most classic of cocktails. Its aromas were light and citrusy at first, but with sweet toffee notes making themselves known soon enough. The taste went bittersweet, dry, a touch herbal, with a noticeable rye spice.


Fried Potatoes [$13.00] | Bone Marrow, Chicken Skin, Horseradish, Mustard, Sorrel
Potatoes were rich and hearty, with delightfully crisp skins to boot. Bone marrow added even more luxuriousness to the equation, while chicken skins imparted a blast of salt and a sharp crunchiness. There were some strong elements at play, so the relative brightness and lightness of the horseradish/mustard/sorrel combination was absolutely key.


El Diablo [$13.00] | Tequila, Cassis, Ginger, Lemon, Soda
And now for an easier, breezier cocktail. This highball was more on the refreshing side, with its combination of citrus and cassis matched by light spice and a subtle astringency.


Next came a pour of the 2017 Parker's Heritage Collection 11 Year Old Bourbon. It had an intoxicating nose that reminded me a bit of a Tootsie Roll with its massive amounts of caramel, joined by vanilla, spice, and alcoholic heat. On the palate, I got sweet stewed fruit, wood, and more peppery spice, along with a palpable heat on the finish. Nice! .
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Break for our meal at Sushi|Bar...
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Egg Rolls [$9.00] | Pastrami-spiced Beef Tongue, Sauerkraut, Russian Dressing, Rye
We still weren't 100% full despite having 20+ courses of unconventional sushi, so we made our way back to the Woodley bar and ordered another round. Here we had what basically amounted to a pastrami Reuben, but in egg roll form. You had all the classic flavors you'd expect, but in an easier-eating package.


Monkey Gland [$13.00] | Gin, Orange, Lemon, Grenadine, Absinthe
This traditional gin cocktail smelled sweet 'n' fruity, but with a definite edge from the absinthe. In terms of taste, I got the botanicals of the gin mixed with plenty of anise at first blush, but the finish was all about the grenadine and citrus.


Crispy Rice [$12.00] | Maitake, Poached Egg, Scallions, Black Pepper
The rice here was indeed as crispy as advertised, and quite tasty too. It made sense as a base for those woodsy, but also somewhat sweet maitakes and zesty scallions, while the runny egg seemed particularly luscious.


Jungle Bird [$13.00] | Aged Rum, Campari, Pineapple, Lime
Our final cocktail was this classic tiki concoction, which featured plenty of fruity, floral nuances backed by the bitterness of Campari.


Lamb Neck Tacos [$13.00] | Salsa Verde, House-made Tortilla, Pickled Onions
Tacos were excellent, with the lamb exhibiting bountiful amounts of savory spice. The meat matched perfectly with the acidity in those onions, and the hefty tortillas were spot on, too. Delish.

Woodley Proper served as a sort of addendum to our meal at Sushi|Bar, but I have to say that it made for a great addition to our evening. The place has definitely evolved since my last visit, and both the kitchen and the bar seem to exude more confidence. Things are coming along nicely.

The Smoking Ribs (Garden Grove, CA)

December 3, 2017, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Chuan's (Temple City, CA)

≪ Previous: Woodley Proper (Encino, CA) [2]

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The SmoKING Ribs BBQ Restaurant
14211 N Euclid St, Garden Grove, CA 92843
714.867.6057
www.thesmokingribs.com
Sun 12/03/2017, 8:00p-09:40p





I recently found myself in Garden Grove and was in search of a place for dinner. After taking a look at various choices in the area, I ended up checking out The Smoking Ribs, which was one of the more unexpected options that turned up. The non-regionally specific barbeque restaurant opened at the end of July 2015, and comes to us from Chef/Owner Kenny Tran.

A SoCal native, Tran was born in 1976 and grew up in Norwalk. He first got interested in meat cookery at the age of 14, after a chance visit to Food4Less with his mom to pick up some beef ribs. After finishing up his studies at Ontario High School, Tran enrolled at CSU Fullerton, majoring in communication, and subsequently worked in engineering. He branched out from backyard grilling to smoking circa 1999 (he liked the more relaxed nature of BBQ), starting with chicken, and eventually was instructed by well-regarded pit master Harry Soo. In 2010, he founded a catering company called Bolsa Barbeque, which led to competitions, and later to the establishment of this permanent location.


The restaurant's located in a Little Saigon strip mall in a spot that previously held Hai Yen and A Hong-Phat. The 40-seat space boasts a convivial atmosphere, as well as a clear view of the kitchen and smoker, which is apparently fired with a combination of hickory, cherry, and apple wood.


The menu follows your typical BBQ layout, with meats in various formats joined by a number of sides (which ostensibly reflect Tran's time spent at local cooking school Academy of Art Culinaire). There are also separate lunch and happy hour offerings, and of course catering is an option as well. Drink-wise, you'll find a reasonable selection of beer and a couple not-be-to-named wines. Click for larger versions.


We ended up taking the food to-go, and so I opened up a few beers that I had on me. Up first was the 2017 Modern Times Spaceship Earth, a hazy pale ale hopped with Centennial, Citra, Simcoe, Amarillo, and Denali. It smelled promising, with lots of zesty orange notes alongside citrus pith. The taste, though, was on the bitter, astringent side, with a slight bit of funk and very little juiciness or tropical fruit.


Coleslaw
The slaw was pretty much spot on: a good balance of creamy and tangy, with a nice crispness on the cabbage.


Pork Ribs (Half) [$19.00]
Pork ribs were supple yet at the same time showed off a slight chew, with the meat tearing cleanly--but not too easily--off the bone. Flavors were porky with a slight sweetness and caramelization, along with a relatively light amount of smoke. Additional saucing wasn't necessary, thought a dip into Tran's standard, tangy, not-too-sweet condiment didn't hurt.


The second beer was the 2017 The Bruery 10 Lords-A-Leaping, a winter warmer-inspired dark imperial witbier brewed with 10 spices: coriander, orange peel, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, allspice, mace, anise, dried apples, and cloves. Nose of light malt, yeast, and dark fruit commingled with an indiscernible spiciness. The taste was malt-forward and a touch boozy, and had a zesty, baking spice sort of character throughout.


Onion Rings
Onion rings could've definitely stood to be crispier. They delivered taste-wise though, with the sweetness of the onion really shining.


Pulled Pork Fries [$10.00] | Beans, cheese, coleslaw and Fries
Pulled pork came in fries form, and wasn't as good as I was expecting. The pork itself ate tender and generally satisfying. However, there was just far too much sweetness present, both from the sauce and the beans--the actual meat was a bit lost in there. The cheese didn't seem quite necessary either, though I did appreciate the contrast provided by the slaw.


The 2017 AleSmith Sublime Mexican Lager was created in collaboration with the band Sublime. This one definitely smelled sweet, corn-y, almost candied. The palate followed, with lots of sugary, grainy, and malty flavors and virtually no hops in a surprisingly viscous package. A bit trashy overall, which I'm sure is what was intended.


Mac & Cheese
Tran's macaroni and cheese was a winner, and my favorite of the sides. Think slick, creamy, with a lovely cheesiness and some well-placed crispy bits up top.


Our final beer was the 2017 Founders CBS (Canadian Breakfast Stout), an imperial stout brewed with chocolate and coffee, then aged in maple syrup-enriched bourbon barrels. Aromas of cocoa powder, brown sugar, subdued coffee, and berry fruit. On the palate, I got a good amount of chocolate and smoke, as well as an overarching coffee astringency and roast, but surprisingly little maple. Not as good as I thought it'd be given all the hype surrounding the beer.


Beef Back Ribs (Full) [$35.00]
Beef ribs had a gratifying bite to 'em, but were still quite tender, while flavors were centered on pure, unmitigated beefiness with a dosing of smoke. Again, additional saucing wasn't necessary, but I did enjoy the meat with Tran's surprisingly spicy habanero sauce.


Smoked Beans
Beans were well-textured, though waaay too sweet for my tastes. I got virtually none of the advertised smoke.


We also did a blind tasting of wheated whiskey this evening, featuring various iterations of W. L. Weller bourbon:

• W. L. Weller Special Reserve - Soft nose of cedar wood, salt water, and caramel, but virtually no heat. The palate was on the vegetal, smoky side, with an herbal element, while the finish was unexpectedly brief.
• Old Weller Antique - Initially this didn't smell like much, with just a bit of nuttiness and floral character as you really got your nose in there. Taste-wise, it was pretty assertive, with orange oil and spice box at the forefront. The finish was abbreviated though, and the whiskey failed to make much of an impression at first. With time though, the aromas opened up and I got tons of really appealing brown sugar.
• W. L. Weller 12 Year - Smelled mainly of caramel and orange zest, with a booziness underneath, and with time, aromas of vanilla and cherry really came through--nice. On the palate, I found it hot at first blush, but that quickly dissipated, giving me notes of citrus, nuts, and cherry toward the back end.
• William LaRue Weller - An unfiltered barrel strength bourbon, this had the most refined nose, with hints of orange, flowers, caramel, heather, and wood. The taste was bracing and very, very spicy, with flavors of citrus zest, oak, and red fruit.

I was pretty satisfied with the actual smoked meat here, though a couple of the other dishes could've used some adjustment. Another concern was that the restaurant had run out of eight menu items, many of which we tried to order: Angus Beef Brisket, Angus Beef Short Rib, Candied Bacon, Chicken Wings, Pulled Pork Sundae, Brisket Sandwich, Mashed Potatoes, Twice Baked Potato. I'm used to BBQ spots running out of a meat, but this was excessive. Nevertheless, The Smoking Ribs looks to be a reasonable choice for 'cue in an area that really needs it, and I do applaud Tran for opening up shop in an unconventional locale.

Chuan's (Temple City, CA)

December 7, 2017, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: Maruhide Uni Club (Torrance, CA)

≪ Previous: The Smoking Ribs (Garden Grove, CA)

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Chuan's Chinese Restaurant
5807 Rosemead Blvd, Temple City, CA 91780
626.677.6667
www.chuansla.com / www.chuanstemplecity.com
Thu 12/07/2017, 7:45p-10:20p





The road to this meal began back in June with the unexpected closure of Erzbierschof, a mini-chain of beer bars in Switzerland with locations in Bern, Liebefeld, Winterthur, and Zürich. A friend in Bern happened to be a regular patron of the business, and after the shutter, was invited to a cellar sale where he could purchase some of the remaining inventory. He ended up buying a case of lambic, and brought the bottles Stateside on a recent visit to Los Angeles. The plan was to drink them all in one sitting, and we'd initially planned a dinner at "imperial court cuisine" purveyor Bistro Na's for that purpose. A group of eight of us thus showed up at the restaurant, only to find that the table reserved wasn't large enough to comfortably accommodate our party. Flummoxed, we tried to quickly think of other places to go, and eventually settled on Chuan's, which happened to be located conveniently across the street.

Chuan's is part of Ba Guo BuYi (BGBY) group, a popular restaurant chain founded in Chengdu in 1996 by Nong He that claims over 30 upscale Sichuanese eateries throughout China. Via his conglomerate Chengdu Jove Industrial, He has also branched out into hotels, real estate, education, and home furnishings. There's even a US subsidiary called Jove USA, which helps oversee Chuan's. The first Chuan's opened in October 2013 in Houston, while this SGV location bowed at the end of September 2014 under the watch of partner Qu "Carol" Chen.


Chuan's is situated in the back corner of Temple City Marketplace, in a spot previously occupied by the quasi-Japanese Kaya (1992-2011). The dining space spans roughly 3,000 square-feet, and is largely decorated with furniture imported from Sichuan province. There's room for about 130 diners, and there are also two VIP rooms in the back.



The menu offers an appealing array of Sichuanese dishes, some traditional and some more modern. To drink, Chuan's provides a limited selection of beers and wine, while corkage is $15 a bottle. However, we were told that corkage could be waived if we'd purchase a bottle of wine, even their cheapest one at $21, so we did just that (and ended up giving the bottle back to the staff to drink). Click for larger versions.


There's a bit of history behind this beer. In May 2009, a faulty controller in one of the brewery's warehouses resulted in extremely high temperatures that destroyed over 80,000 bottles of lambic. The business suffered a huge financial loss, and in order to help raised funds to continue operations, operator Armand Debelder created a quartet of special blends comprising 1/2/3-year old lambic, including some of the final in-house lambic brewed before the "thermostat incident." Each bottle was inspired by a particular season, and we started with the first in the series: the 2010 Drie Fonteinen Armand'4 Oude Geuze Lente. On the nose I got boatloads of juicy stone fruit, along with a plethora of citrusy, yeasty notes--very appealing. The taste was sour, dry, acidic at the start, but vibrant, delectable notes of peach appeared on the mid-palate and lingered, joined by a refined funk and light spice. It really did taste of spring with its lively, refreshing character, and had plenty of life left in it still. My favorite of the foursome, and arguably my favorite beer of the night overall.


Complimentary snacks comprised crunchy pickles and some sweet-n-spicy cookies.


Summer was represented by the 2010 Drie Fonteinen Armand'4 Oude Geuze Zomer. The nose on this one was definitely more muffled and muddled, with stone fruit, oak, and woodsy spice commingled with a slight cardboard-y sensation. The beer had a creamier sort of mouthfeel as well, but was still tart and acidic, with some nice apricot-like notes, barnyard, and wood present.


Avocado With Green Chili [$8.99]
Our first proper course married the heat of chilies with a nutty spice, both elements moderated just enough by the cool creaminess of avocado.


Autumn arrived in the form of the 2010 Drie Fonteinen Armand'4 Oude Geuze Herfst. The aromas here were super funky at first, with Band-Aid, blue cheese, and earthy spice notes at the forefront, though more stone fruit did come out as the beer warmed. The taste blended horse blanket and mustiness with a tight acidity, dryness, and some grainy nuances, while the fruit was certainly on the austere side.


Dry Cooked Green Bean And Potato [$10.99]
Greens beans and potato were seasoned beautifully, with lots of peppery spice, yet the inherent nature of the vegetables was still apparent. Some great textures here too, especially from the French fry-like cuts of tater.


We concluded the seasons set with the 2010 Drie Fonteinen Armand'4 Oude Geuze Winter. Very spicy, grainy nose on this one, with funk, lemon, and some peach hiding in there. On the palate, I found the beer creamier, softer, but with citrus, oak, subdued fruitiness, and a persistent tingle of bitterness on the finish. Easy-drinking, and my second favorite of the set. Interestingly, at the end we actually made a cuvée of all the seasons. In terms of aroma, what stood out was really rich stone fruit and plenty of barnyard, while the palate was smooth and thick, with an almost candy apple-like sweetness mixed with more stone fruit and wood.


Bean Jelly With Fresh Chili [$4.99]
Liangfen arrived as slick and slippery as you'd expect, its relatively bland flavors kicked up several notches by plenty of heat and some nutty notes.


The 2011 Drie Fonteinen Oude Geuze Armand & Tommy was also in the running for my favorite beer of the night. Comprised of four-year-old Boon lambic as well as Debelder's own lambic dating from 2008, the beer was ostensibly crafted in collaboration with The Lost Abbey's Tomme Arthur. I got a wonderful nose filled with soft stone fruit, yeast, light spice, and light lemon. The taste was similarly mellow, balanced, yet unquestionably delicious, with more fruit, funk, oak, subtle peppery spice, and a tart, countering acidity.


Dan Dan noodles [$2.99]
This was a fairly restrained preparation of dandanmian that really highlighted the minced pork. Nice textures on the noodles, too.


Next was the oldest beer in our line-up, the 2004 Cantillon Iris, a non-traditional lambic brewed solely with pale malt, hopped with an equal mix of both fresh and aged Hallertau, aged for two years in oak, then cold-hopped with Saaz before bottling. The nose on this one was simultaneously sharp yet soft, with a distinct yeastiness giving way to juicy peach. The taste was super tart, but also balanced by elements of yeast, wood, must, and fruit all in sync. The beer really has aged quite well, and was probably my third favorite of the bunch.


Sliced Prime Rib In Spicy Sauce [$59.99/large]
Thin-sliced beef came out super tender and tasty, with a superb complement in the form of that savory, spicy sauce. The onions were much appreciated as well, and overall this was just a joy to eat.


At this point we took a break from the sours and enjoyed a short IPA interlude. The 2017 Moonraker The Holy Hermit was a Northeast-style double IPA hopped with Citra and Amarillo. The beer smelled as you'd expect, with plenty of juiciness and a tempered bitterness from the hops. The palate here was decidedly thick, with a strong maltiness joined by tropical fruit, light hop bitterness, and an almost candied finish. Quite good.


Traditional Braised Pork Belly [$9.99]
The pork belly came out fatty and flaky, its rich, unquestionably porky flavors evened out by the astringency of the paired greens.


Our friend from Switzerland had apparently never had Hill Farmstead before, so we obliged and busted out a few from the brewery. First was the 2017 Hill Farmstead Difference & Repetition #2, an IPA brewed with Nelson Sauvin and Simcoe hops. The nose on the beer was surprisingly weak for me, with just hints of herb and citrus. The taste was more assertive though, showcasing a forceful yet never domineering hop bitterness commingled with some grassiness and delectable notes of pineapple.


Boiled Chili Bullfrog And Fish [$25.99]
This impressive-looking stew was jam-packed with a mouthwateringly sour, numbing spice. It never overwhelmed all the supple slices of fish in there though, and the super tender cuts of frog were even better. I got a nice disparity in texture from the bamboo, too.


Our last (double) IPA was the 2017 Hill Farmstead Society & Solitude #4, brewed with Citra and Galaxy. Its nose was surprisingly subdued as well, with just traces of tropical fruit and grain. Meanwhile, the palate highlighted hop bitterness, but also a soft acidity and a light amount of grapefruit-like juiciness.


Spiced Pork Belly Served With Fluffy Steamed Bun [$16.99]
Thin, almost transparent slices of pork belly were on the tougher side texturally, but conveyed a lovely, sweet-savory, almost char siu-like flavor profile. A fitting pairing with the fluffy buns, and make sure to get some veggies in there for contrast.


The 2005 Cantillon Lou Pepe Gueuze was a non-traditional gueuze made of two-year-old lambic aged in wine barrels, refermented to dryness with the addition of sugar. Mature, developed nose of stone fruit and mustiness. The palate, on the other hand, was bracingly tart and acidic at first, then transitioned to rounder flavors of yeast, oak, funk, and more fruit (with that fruit coming out even more as the beer warmed).


Dry Chili Intestine [$14.99]
This was arguably the best preparation of intestine that I've had. I loved its crispness, and how the numbing spice in the dish tempered the inherent funkiness of the offal. Also key were the crunchy bits here; I'm not sure what they were, but I'd liken their texture to that of undercooked potato.


The 2015 Cantillon Cuvée Saint-Gilloise was lambic, aged two years in oak, dry-hopped in stainless, then refermented with sugar. I got some really bright aromas here, with lots of hoppy, herbal qualities and some fruit. The taste was definitely on the crisp 'n' refreshing side, with more of those hops, some yeast, and a noticeable juiciness. This was the youngest lambic we had, and surely tasted like it.


Sauteed Shrimp With Oyster Mushroom [$29.99]
The shrimp managed to be another table favorite. They were cooked super crispy, so you could eat 'em shell and all, and had a nice brine and savoriness that matched up swimmingly with the onions and peppers. I was a big fan of the spongy 'shrooms, too.


Here was the 2011 Cantillon Fou' Foune, a very well-regarded lambic brewed with organic Bergeron apricots. Fantastic nose filled with super intense, tart, true-to-life apricot. The taste followed, with again more of that tart, focused fruit along with a little woody funk. The beer is holding up wonderfully.


Sautéed Chicken With Preserved Soybean And Fresh Pepper [$10.99]
The chicken was yet another winner, coming out properly tender and delivering bountiful amounts of savory spice and peppery heat. Yum.


The 2008 Cantillon Lou Pepe Framboise was a two-year-old lambic aged in used Bordeaux barrels, with whole fresh raspberries added, then refermented with sugar. Nose on this one was a blend of acidity and jammy fruit, with oak and yeast mixed in. The taste was again quite sour, but still had a decent amount of raspberry left, along with your expected woody, barnyard-y character.


Homestyle Braised Firm Tofu [$12.99]
Some large cuts of tofu made for a welcomed change of pace from all the other strong flavors at play.


Next came the year older 2007 Cantillon Lou Pepe Framboise. I found this one super lactic and acid-forward on the nose, with not nearly as much fruit. Taste-wise, things were bracingly acidic, with more of a Band-Aid and blue cheese quality and muted raspberry compared to the '08.


Lamb With Cumin [$14.99]
Lamb and cumin is pretty much a match made in heaven, as the warming spice in the dish just worked perfectly against those tender shards of meat.


With the lambics all drunk up, we moved on to the 2017 Hill Farmstead Arthur, a traditional farmstead ale (a.k.a. saison). Bright aromas of lemon, grass, and urinal cake. The palate brought more tart citrus along with a yeasty astringency and some tasty grape-like flavors.


Spiced Pork Fried Rice [$10.99]
We ended with the traditional closer of fried rice, a classic preparation with additional heft courtesy of the spiced pork.


Closing out the evening was the 2016 Hill Farmstead Anna, a saison with Vermont wildflower honey. Grassy, herbaceous, grainy aromas here, layered with honey. In terms of taste, again, the sweetness of the honey was at the fore, moderated by malt, lemon, herb, and a pleasant bitterness.

This was a pretty outstanding meal, and easily some of the strongest Sichuanese cooking I've had: think delicious, well-executed, and not overwhelmingly spicy. Flavors were certainly robust, but always for a good reason--there was finesse along with power. Service, also, was quite commendable, and I can't fault the ambiance either, so an impressive experience overall.

Maruhide Uni Club (Torrance, CA)

December 15, 2017, 7:40 pm

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Maruhide Uni Club Restaurant
2130 W Redondo Beach Blvd, Torrance, CA 90504
310.323.2864
www.maruhide.us/en/uniclub/
Fri 12/15/2017, 7:40p-09:30p





We were recently on the search for a place to dine in the South Bay, and ended up at Maruhide Uni Club, a place that I'd been curious about for a while now. The restaurant is the retail front of Hideo Kawamura's Maruhide Marine Products, a wholesale company founded in 1975. MMP contracts local divers to harvest Santa Barbara red sea urchin (and other seafood), and processes the product at their west Long Beach facility for sale in the US as well as Asia.

The Uni Club opened in 2012 selling product to-go, and started serving dinner around June 2013. The spot eventually became pretty popular, but closed in May 2016 apparently due to a health issue on the owner's part (though the retail component still remained). In January 2017, some former chefs started Miyabi Uni, a more upscale joint located further south in Torrance. Maruhide, meanwhile, did end up reopening at the end of June this year, albeit with a higher-end menu and higher prices to match.



Maruhide sits at the center of the Cherry Plaza strip mall, in a spot once home to Mariscos El Salto. The space features a recurring uni motif, and is perhaps slightly tacky, but does the job. There's a bar off to one side, though it sat conspicuously unused this evening.



Maruhide's menu features a variety of gozen (set meals), as well as a number of other uni dishes and some further types of seafood. To drink, you get California wine, a small array of sakes and shochus, and a couple beers. Corkage was $20, and we were charged only once. Click for larger versions.


First to drink was the 2015 Drie Fonteinen Oude Geuze Cuvée Armand & Gaston, a blend of lambic brewed in-house in 2013, 2014, and 2015. The nose brought together a commingling of tart, musty, oaky qualities, with light apricot. The taste was expectedly sour, with grainy, grassy notes, mild barnyard, more stone fruit, and a slight metallic tinge.


Grilled Uni [$32.00]
We began with a box of seared urchin, which smelled wonderful, its smokiness in full effect. The taste was just as appealing, highlighting the interplay between char savor and the inherently sweet, creamy nature of the roe. I loved the umami and crunch provided by the nori, while the wasabi added a punch of heat to the mix. Further accompaniments of lemon and salt worked too.


Ruibe [$9.00]
We went from grilled sea urchin to the opposite end of the temperature spectrum with the frozen uni shutou ruibe. The sweetness of the roe seemed to be emphasized, giving the dish an almost dessert-y quality, but there was still an ever-present savory edge. Texturally, think creamy, dense, substantial, with a slight icy grit.


Uni Steamed Egg Custard [$8.00]
Chawanmushi was classic at its core: a slick, soft, eggy custard heightened by the uni while mushroom and salmon roe provided a counterbalancing smoky, woodsy element.


You'll find a cooler with products available to-go, while next to it sits a case featuring live uni.


Vinegared Shutou Sea Cucumber [$9.00]
We took a break from uni with the namako sunomono. The sea cucumber ate soft, but with a snap, and was loaded with plenty of soy-fueled savoriness. I appreciated the contrast provided by the seaweed, and a squirt of lemon didn't hurt, either.


Smoked Fatty Tuna, Uni, Pickled Radish [$18.00]
Smoked tuna was dense, firm, meaty, with a good amount of smoke to pair with its naturally fishy, fatty character. The uni also appeared to be smoked, and conveyed much more umami than usual, while its consistency was drier, more "crumbly" if you will. Meanwhile, the pickled radishes were substantial, their crunch and acidity working to even out all the strong flavors present.


Our second beer, the 2014 Beachwood 8 Buffalo, went in a completely different direction: an imperial oatmeal stout aged in bourbon barrels for a year. I got sweet aromas of cocoa powder combined with dark, stewed fruit. The taste showcased oaky, malty influences along with plenty of sweet cocoa powder, toffee, and roasty coffee.


Uni Shutou Sampler [$16.00] | Original, Yuzu Chili
Next was a duo of shutou, which refers to sea urchin marinated with kombu-infused soy sauce. On the right was the Original, which really displayed the umami flavors imparted by the soy-kelp combination. At the same time though, the sweet, oceany essence of the urchin was still there, and it really worked as a topping to the provided bread. Even more enjoyable, though, was the Yuzu Chili. This one brought loads of bright yuzu as well as a creeping, growing heat that did a wonderful job complementing the uni.



Maruhide Original Uni Cream Pasta [$35.00]
Naturally, we made to try the restaurant's signature pasta. The dish certainly smelled the part, giving off aromas somewhat reminiscent of a maritime fettuccine Alfredo. The richness of uni was well represented in the pasta's luxurious sauce, but fortunately a good dosing of pepper provided some semblance of balance. At the same time, the noodles weren't overcooked and still had a decent bite, which was appreciated. The course also came with a salad, laced, appropriately, with an uni-based dressing.


Red Bean Ice Cream [$4.00]
To close: a rather gritty scoop of ice cream, with relatively restrained azuki flavor.

I came to Maruhide to experience uni in multiple formats, and that's exactly what I got. I can't say that the various preparations necessarily improve on the natural product, but they do provide different vehicles for enjoyment, and I like my variety. Definitely a place to check out for all you uni fiends out there (I know there are a lot of you).

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Key Lime Pie [$6.50] | Lime Graham Cracker
The dessert above didn't quite sate our need for the sweet stuff, so after dinner we headed over to -8°C Ice Cream inside Gardena's Pacific Square shopping center. The place opened in December 2016, and features rolled ice cream, which is apparently a trend in Southeast Asia, Thailand in particular. The process basically involves pouring liquid ice cream batter onto a chilled metal base, which freezes it, and then rolling the resultant product into tight coils. We opted for the Key lime pie-inspired variant (with added blueberries), and it really did recall the classic pie, with lots of graham cracker crust to temper the tartness of lime. The rolling made for a novel texture, though that same texture made the dessert rather difficult to eat, as we had a couple instances of ice cream flying out of the bowl while we were trying to scoop it.

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Cal Mare (Los Angeles, CA)

December 16, 2017, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: 189 by Dominique Ansel (Los Angeles, CA)

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Cal Mare Restaurant at Beverly Center
8500 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
424.332.4595
www.michaelmina.net/restaurants/southern-california/calmare/
Sat 12/16/2017, 8:15p-12:15a





Over the past 11 years of running this site, I'd never actually dined at Beverly Center--not once. What drew me to the oft-maligned shopping mall was the newest opening from Mina Group: Cal Mare, a coastal Italian restaurant with a Southern Californian slant. The place debuted on November 21st, and represents a partnership between Michael Mina and Chef Adam Sobel.

About the Chef: Sobel was born in 1980, and grew up in the Long Island hamlet of Hicksville, NY. He first discovered cooking at age 5, when he would help his Sicilian grandmother make meatballs and stuffed peppers. This training lasted for about six years. In his early teens, the Chef was a bit of a miscreant, and his mother pushed him into the culinary program at Barry Tech (a local vocational school) when he was 15. On his very first day he fell in love with food once again and knew that he wanted to cook for a living. He even gave up playing soccer, and ended up finding employment at a couple nearby restaurants: The Weeping Willow in Farmingdale ('96-'97) and Piping Rock Club in Locust Valley ('97-'98). It was at Piping Rock where Sobel first encountered John Johnstone, and after finishing up at Barry Tech in 1998, he moved over with Johnstone to the iconic Tavern on the Green in Central Park and helmed the fish station there. During this time, he also cooked stints at Daniel Boulud's Cafe Boulud and Bill Telepan's Judson Grill, both in Manhattan.

After some prodding from his father, Sobel decided to enroll in culinary school, and started at the CIA Hyde Park when he was 19. He externed at Seeger's in Atlanta, and after graduating with honors in 2001, helped open Bradley Ogden's Parcel 104 in Santa Clara, CA. His next move was to Chicago, to work at the legendary Charlie Trotter's as both a pastry chef and station chef. In 2002, the Chef relocated to Las Vegas to open Bradley Ogden at Caesars Palace, where he became co-CdC along with Gerald Chin (an old friend and another '98 grad of Barry Tech). Under their watch, the place garnered "Best New Restaurant" accolades from James Beard in 2004, but Sobel was out by 2005. He landed at another Caesars eatery, Guy Savoy, where he served as Chef de Cuisine for two years. In late 2007, he took the Executive Chef position at Company American Bistro at Luxor (with none other than Marcel Vigneron as one of his cooks), but left after just five months (as did most of the team). December 2008 saw Sobel come to LA for a pop-up series (a street food concept entitled "Crush") at Breadbar, the very spot that launched LudoBites.

The Chef was soon back in Vegas though, this time heading the kitchen over at Rick Moonen's RM Seafood at Mandalay Bay (with Gerald Chin as his CdC). He decamped in November 2010 to join the team at Michael Mina's Bourbon Steak in Washington DC as Exec Chef. Situated inside the Four Seasons, the steakhouse was well-received under his leadership, and in October 2012, he even cooked dinner for the Obamas on their 20th anniversary. In April 2013, Sobel moved to San Francisco to take the reins at Mina's wine-focused RN74, replacing opening chef Jason Berthold. During this period, he also won the national Cochon 555 title, served as a judge on Food Network's Chopped, and earned a 3½ star review from the San Francisco Chronicle. In addition, he was largely running the show at the experimental Mina Test Kitchen, which bowed in July 2015. One of the concepts that was tested out there was "Postcards from La Costiera," the result of a trip that Mina and Sobel took to coastal Italy. "Postcards" eventually morphed into Cal Mare, and thus here we are today.

Sobel's second-in-command is CdC Joseph "Joe" Sasto III, who hails from Las Vegas. He started out cooking with his mother when he was young, but decided against culinary school. Rather, he went to UC Davis for his undergrad degree, and cooked on the side to earn a living. After graduating in 2010, he helped open Branches Wood Fired Chop House in Ukiah, CA as a line cook. The restaurant was closed by March 2012, and Sasto's next move was to RN74. There, he cooked under Jason Berthold for six months and became sous chef, a role he continued when Sobel took over in 2013. However, he eventually took a break to travel throughout Europe, and upon returning Stateside, found a gig at Michael Tusk's Cotogna. He quickly moved to Tusk's flagship eatery, the Michelin three-star Quince, and spent three years there. In February 2016, Sasto left to become exec sous at David Barzelay's lauded Lazy Bear, and not long after, competed on Chopped in an all-San Francisco episode (he won). He left the restaurant in May 2017, filmed Top Chef: Colorado, then came to work here at Cal Mare.




Cal Mare is situated in a spot once home to P.F. Chang's and Market City Caffe. It's a large restaurant: a total area on the order of 8,000 square-feet, with seating for approximately 150, plus another 20 in the private dining room. The space was designed by local firm Bishop Pass (Maude, Dia de Campo, Abigaile, Little Sister, The Parish, Gjelina), and features a somewhat rustic aesthetic that fits the spot's coastal Italian theme.


The menu is wide-ranging, though there is an expected focus on seafood. With so many different sections, there should be something for everybody. You even get tasting menu options, priced at $85 and $175, though we opted to go à la carte given our large party. Click for a larger version.



Drink-wise, you can expect a dozen or so cocktails, housemade limoncello, a selection of amari, some beer, and a mostly-Italian wine list created by Rajat Parr. Click for larger versions.


Umbrella by the Road [$14.00] | Nolet's Gin, Cocchi Rosa, Orgeat, Lime, Grapefruit Soda
As is usually the case, we made our way through most of the cocktail list, starting with this easy-drinking number. Think sweet 'n' fruity, with intense citrus and a touch of nuttiness, as well as a restrained bitterness underscoring it all.


A deceptively large serving of semolina bread was a joy to eat, coming out warm, soft, and crusted with sesame seeds.


Focaccia di Patate [$6.00] | Basil Pesto, Parmigiano Fonduta
Speaking of complimentary breads, the focaccia came out looking like a large cinnamon roll, but its taste was anything but thanks to a generous helping of rich, cheesy Parmesan fondue. I didn't taste much from the basil pesto, though.


Full of Bologna [$14.00] | Drouin Selection Calvados, Apricot, Amaro Montenegro, Orgeat, Prosecco
I was drawn to this next cocktail due to its use of calvados. It had a nose that was sugary, almost candied, with a sort of amaretto-like character (from the orgeat I assume). The taste also showed off sweet-spicy and nutty notes, but with a citrus element and slight bitterness that served as a counterbalance.


Pesce Palla Fritto [$15.00] | Crispy Blowfish Tails, Fennel, Salsa Verde
Crispy fried blowfish tails conveyed a straightforward sort of savoriness tarted up by the application of salsa verde and squirts of lemon.


Seppia "Tagliatelle" [$17.00] | Lightly Marinated Cuttlefish, Passionfruit, Mustard Seed, Fennel
Ribbons of cuttlefish were delightfully textured, and had a subdued flavor profile that really called for the tanginess provided by the passion fruit. My favorite part, though, were those "chips," which worked as a nutty, crunchy, salty contrast to the sepia.


Livorno Sunrise [$14.00] | Ketel One Vodka, Blood Orange, Strega, Curaçao, Peychaud's Bitters
This next cocktail was definitely on the quaffable and refreshing side with its rich blood orange flavors and touch of bittersweet, herbal spice.


Ricciola e Peperoncino [$18.00] | Amberjack, Stuffed Cherry Peppers, Capers, Lemon
Soft, briny cuts of amberjack were layered with lots of olive oil and the sweet heat of those stuffed peppers.


Calamari alla Diavola [$14.00] | Local Squid, Tomato Broth, Fregola, Basil
Tender cuts of squid came bathed in a fragrant, spicy broth with additional textural interest from the spheres of fregula.


Amalfi Flip [$13.00] | Alessio Bianco Vermouth, Lime, Yellow Chartreuse, Agave, Egg White
I'm a fan of vermouth-based cocktails, so we had to give this one a try. Its nose was dominated by the egg white, with just a smidge of citrus as well. Taste-wise, think bittersweet, with the herbal character of the Chartreuse coming through, joined by more lime tartness.


Capesante e Mela [$19.00] | Bay Scallop, 'Nduja, Kohlrabi, Apple
Scallops conveyed a fresh brine, and served as a base for the spice of the 'nduja while the apples and kohlrabi contributed brightness and crunch.


Tonno e Arance Rosse [$23.00] | Yellow Fin Tuna, Blood Orange, Radish, Chilies
Shards of yellowfin were fattier than anticipated, which wasn't necessarily a bad thing. Citrus and chili provided a moderating element, while the fried onions gave the dish a nice savoriness.


We also had some wine with our meal, starting with the Falanghina Quintodecimo 'Via Del Campo' Campania 2015 [$115] (note: this was incorrectly called out as the 2016 vintage on the wine list). Nose was almost Chablis-like, with green apple and lemon at the fore. The palate went in a similar direction, with round, smooth flavors of minerality and sea shell joined by more soft apple.


Farinata di Gambero Rosso [$18.00] | Chickpea & Spicy Shrimp Pancake, Saffron Aïoli, Escarole
The farinata hit the mark thanks to its interaction between the pancake and well-seasoned, well-textured shrimp. Great bitterness from the escarole to boot. One of my favorites.


Macellaio [$20.00] | Soppressata, Lardo, Pork Sausage, Mozzarella, Grana Padano
The "butcher's" pizza delivered the hearty, meaty, salty, gratifying flavors that I was expecting, tempered just enough by the zesty slivers of red onion. Tasty.


Negroni [$13.00] | Beefeater Gin, Alessio Vermouth, Campari
The classic Negroni showed off the cocktail's signature bittersweet aroma, while its flavors highlighted the back-and-forth between the Campari and vermouth.


Cavolfiore Arcobaleno [$19.00] | Sea Urchin, Cauliflower, Guanciale, Finger Lime
Cauliflower was unexpectedly smoky and worked beautifully as a complement to the sweetness of sea urchin, all while the cured pork added a hit of saltiness and spice. An odd combination, but one that definitely worked. A standout for me.


Ragù di Funghi [$17.00] | Wild Mushrooms, Pine Nut, Farm Egg, Speck
Mushrooms were woodsy and earthy, unsurprisingly, but were also joined by a pervasive sweetness that sort of surprised me. That egg, meanwhile, came out as runny and luscious as I wanted, and I liked the pine nuts too.


Wandering Albatross [$13.00] | Barsol Pisco, Aperol, Grapefruit, Jasmine Tea, Prosecco
Also on the more gluggable side of the spectrum was our next cocktail, which some of us likened to a wine cooler with its abundance of fruity, tea-like flavors.


Patate alla Carbonara [$20.00] | Potato, Guanciale, Black Pepper, Pecorino, Egg
Our second pizza was certainly heavy on the cheese and egg. I wanted more black pepper and potato for balance, though the bitterness of the crust did help.


Agnolotti di Granchio [$28.00] | Dungeness Crab, Truffle, Butternut Squash, Sea Urchin
Our first pasta course did a pretty admirable job meshing the sweetness of butternut squash with the sweetness of crab. I would've liked to have tasted more from the urchin and truffle, however.


Acqua Giuseppe [$13.00] | Hine Cognac, Nonino Chardonnay di Grappa, Amontillado Sherry, Banana, Amaro Sfumato
This was the most polarizing cocktail of the night, and one which I quite enjoyed. Its bouquet was pleasantly sweet, with a definite astringent, herbal bent. The taste went bittersweet, nutty, medicinal, with a hint of chocolate and toffee for balance.


Rigatoni "all'Amatriciana di Mare" [$20.00] | Smoked Tuna Belly, Pecorino Romano, Guanciale
A tuna-enriched version of sugo all'amatriciana delivered, combining the smoke of the fish with the saltiness of the pork in effective fashion, the tomato serving as a soothing force.


Tagliatelle al Nero [$24.00] | Squid Ink Pasta, Octopus, Mussels, Calabrian Chile
Squid ink tagliatelle was well-textured, as were the various items of seafood, and I enjoyed the additional crunch of the breadcrumbs as well. The Calabrian peppers provided a welcomed piquancy, though I wanted more brine, more salinity in the dish.


Sleeping Giant [$13.00] | Rittenhouse Rye, Pomme du Normandie, Meletti Amaro, Mole Bitters
Next was a cocktail that was one of my favorites of the bunch. Nose of bittersweet citrus and rye. The palate showed an almost tropical sort of fruitiness, along with some herb and a smidge of chocolate and warming, sweet spice.


Cavatelli alla Romana [$22.00] | Ricotta Cavatelli, Spicy Tripe, Pancetta, Mint
In our final pasta course, cavatelli arrived loaded with the rich, savory spice of tripe and pancetta, a decidedly tasty combination that was brightened up by the application of mint.


Cavoletti di Bruxelles [$9.00] | Black Garlic - "Bagna Caùda"
Brussels had a proper bite to 'em, while the sprouts' bitterness married well with the punch of black garlic and the richness of that bagna càuda on the bottom.


Our second bottle of wine was a red, the Aglianico Contrade di Taurasi Cantine di Lonardo Taurasi, Campania 2012 [$102]. Its bouquet was rife with perfume-y violet and berry fruit. The taste, however, was more austere, showing off a dry, tannic quality along with notes of tar, soil, and dark fruit.


Coda di Rospo [$38.00] | Bone-in Monkfish tail
Monkfish tail came out perfectly grilled, its healthy dosing of char and smoke melding seamlessly with the refined brine of that soft, spongy flesh. The course also came with a trio of sauces--salsa verde, Livornese, smoked butter--but these were largely unnecessary given how good the fish was. Another favorite for me.


Broccoli di Cicco alla Fra Diavola [$8.00] | Calabrian Chile, Preserved Orange
Broccoli arrived smoky and bitter, with a pleasant heat from the chili and a garlicky sort of savor.


The desserts, not surprisingly, fit in with the rest of the menu. Click for a larger version.


3-Piece Suit [$13.00] | Ford's Gin, Italicus Bergamot, Dolin Genepy, St. George Absinthe
This was perhaps the most spirit-forward of our cocktails, giving up a nose filled with citrus and botanicals. In terms of taste, think a base of gin, layered with citrus, flowers, and herbs, with the aromatics of the bergamot coming in toward the close.


Pistacchio Siciliano [$10.00] | Pistachio Gelato, Preserved Lemon, Amarena Cherry
Pistachio ice cream was rich and creamy, with an almost oily quality to it that really did recall its namesake nut. Enjoyable alone, but even better when paired with the sweet-n-sour cherries.


Stracciatella [$10.00] | Chocolate Chip Gelato, Malt Candy
The classic combo of milky gelato and chocolate certainly worked, especially with the addition of caramel and those crunchy shards of candy.


Lucky 13 [$14.00] | Evan Williams Bourbon, Alessio Chinato, Espolón Reposado Tequila, Ancho Reyes, Angostura Bitters
I liked the combination of whiskey and tequila in this next cocktail. Bittersweet nose from the Angostura and vermouth, with accents of citrus. On the palate I got a booze base filled with brown sugar and caramel notes, commingled with chili heat and warm spice.


Fior di Latte [$10.00] | Ricotta Gelato, New Press Olive Oil, Sea Salt
A ricotta ice cream was wonderfully sweet and lactic, and paired perfectly with the heft of the olive oil. A great balance of sugary and savory.


Caffé Shakerato [$11.00] | Italian Iced Coffee, Mini Cannoli Trio
Crunchy, miniature cannoli were pretty much just what you'd want, and worked either alone or with a dip into that roasty-sweet coffee.


East India Negroni [$13.00] | Banks 5 Island Rum, Campari, Lustau East India Sherry
Our final cocktail was this Negroni variation. Compared with the traditional drink, this was certainly sweeter, with a floral, tea-like quality and almost candied sensation on the finish.


Pera [$9.00] | Winter Pear Sorbet, Pine Nut Crumble
A pear sorbet was super fruity, with vibrant, true-to-life pear all up in your face. Pomegranate seeds provided a contrast in texture and tartness, while the pine nuts worked to moderate everything.


Arance Rosse [$9.00] | Blood Orange Sorbet, Vanilla Cream
Last up was the blood orange sorbet, which had its robust, refreshing citrus flavors softened by the presence of vanilla cream.


Closing out the meal was a bowl of soft, sticky, nougat-y torrone filled with sunflower seeds, poppy seeds, and dried fruit.

Our marathon of a meal at Cal Mare was sort of a surprising success. Sobel mostly manages to steer clear of the usual Italian tropes, putting together some interesting, and tasty combinations that pay homage to both coastal Italy and the restaurant's home in the Southland. It's probably one of the more promising Italian debuts as of late, and can likely carve out a niche for itself. With Cal Mare's opening, the previously dire dining situation at Beverly Center is looking better already. However, it's likely to get even better in the coming year or so. Michael Mina is apparently putting together an upstairs food hall called The Street that should be worthwhile. More intriguing, though, is Hugo Ortega's Mi Almita, a modern Mexican joint that also started out as a pop-up at Mina Test Kitchen.

189 by Dominique Ansel (Los Angeles, CA)

December 20, 2017, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: LA Brisket (Artesia, CA)

≪ Previous: Cal Mare (Los Angeles, CA)

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189 by Dominique Ansel at The Grove
189 The Grove Dr, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.602.0096
www.189byda.com / www.dominiqueansella.com
Wed 12/20/2017, 7:45p-10:50p





It'd been a long time since my last visit to The Grove, which was in 2012 to check out the short-lived Fat Cow (at the site of the current Blue Ribbon). What prompted by return was a birthday dinner at 189, Dominique Ansel's first proper restaurant, which debuted with considerable fanfare at the start of November.

About the Chef: Ansel was born in 1978 in Beauvais, a city in northern France about an hour or so outside of Paris, the youngest of four children. His father was a factory worker while his mother was a homemaker; the family often struggled with money, and thus the kids didn't eat well growing up. He attended school at Collège Charles Fauqueux from 1989 to 1994, and after finishing up his studies at age 16, he attended a local culinary school that offered free tuition. There, Ansel combined classroom learning with apprenticeships. He started out at local eatery Cour et Jardin on the savory side, then spent the last of year of the three year program at a nearby bakery, which is where he fell in love with the precision of pastry arts. At age 19, he began his mandatory military service, and as a part of that, spent a year in French Guiana teaching cooking.

Upon returning to his hometown in 1998, he purchased a car for the equivalent of roughly $2000 and started driving to Paris daily, handing out résumés to as many bakeries as he could find. After just a few days, Ansel had eight job offers, and ended up at Peltier, one of the most longstanding pâtisseries in the City (now closed). He stayed there for a year before transitioning to Fauchon, a storied gourmet food purveyor founded in 1886 (it's where Pierre Hermé first made a name for himself). He was hired as part of a cadre of 30 seasonal workers for the holidays, and was the only worker of the group that was retained. Ansel began as a pastry cook, then was promoted to chef de partie six months later in 2000, while a further promotion to sous came in 2002. Two years later he was made Corporate Chef, a role that saw him lead the company's international expansion efforts.

In 2006, Daniel Boulud called him about becoming the pastry chef at Daniel. Ansel came Stateside to prepare a six dessert tasting for Boulud, and was hired on the spot (after the second dessert, in fact); he ended up moving to New York two months later. During his tenure at Daniel, the restaurant garnered three Michelin stars, a four-star review from the Times, and a James Beard award for "Outstanding Restaurant." The Chef left in 2011, however, to open his first solo project: Dominique Ansel Bakery, which bowed in a small SoHo spot in November that year. The business was a success, and even won Ansel an "Outstanding Pastry Chef" nomination from Beard, but really blew up after Cronut mania took over in May 2013. 2014 saw the clinching of Beard's "Outstanding Pastry Chef" award, as well as the publishing of Dominique Ansel: The Secret Recipes by Simon & Schuster.

With the accolades piling up, expansion was called for. Dominique Ansel Kitchen in NYC's West Village (with its focus on more traditional, finished-to-order pastries) came in April 2015. Dominique Ansel Bakery Tokyo--in the Omotesando Hills shopping center--launched just two months later. September 2016 had the debut of Dominique Ansel Bakery London, while a second Japanese outpost (at the Mitsukoshi Ginza department store) arrived in March 2017. The Chef's next step was The Grove, a location he chose due to a successful Cronut pop-up he held here at Barneys back in March 2014. 189, a name that references the address of the original DAB (189 Spring St) as well as the street number of The Grove, thus opened on November 4th for brunch, with dinner coming a week later. Dominique Ansel Bakery Los Angeles, meanwhile, dropped on November 10th.

Running the day-to-day at 189 is Executive Chef Hyungon "Hyun" Lee, who was born in South Korea but raised in Buenos Aires. After finishing up his undergrad degree in Spanish Literature/Psychology at Emory in January 2006, he returned to Argentina to attend culinary school for a few months. Starting in February 2007, he worked as a sushi chef at a place called Imari, then began his education at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in January 2008. He worked at Terra in Saint Helena during this period, and after graduating in December 2010, staged at The French Laundry for a few weeks. Following, Lee went to work as a sous chef at The St. Regis San Francisco. He stayed there until November 2011, then came down to SoCal for a position at José Andrés'The Bazaar. In February 2015, he moved to New York to open Bar SixtyFive at Rainbow Room at the top of 30 Rock. Lee departed in January 2016 to become Culinary Manager for Culinary Concepts Hospitality Group, where he worked on menu and concept development. He remained at that post until June 2017, when he left to lead the kitchen at 189.


The first floor is completely occupied by Dominique Ansel Bakery, so you'll need to head upstairs.



189 occupies the old home of Morel's French Steakhouse & Bistro, which closed in April 2017. The interior's been totally redone by Studio Unltd (Chianina, Moruno, Otium, The Rose, Petty Cash #2, BierBeisl Imbiss, Catch & Release, Bestia, Messhall, BierBeisl), and fortunately nary a trace of the staid former digs remain. There's room for up to 150 diners across the main dining area, bar, and outdoor terrace. A 12-seater private dining room, replete with its own patio, is also an option.


As far as 189's menu goes, think reworked versions of classics, with a Cal-French twist; it was actually more interesting than I'd anticipated. There's also a bar menu with small bites, and a family-style, dim sum-esque brunch is served on the weekends. Drink-wise, you'll find ten cocktails, eight beers, and a relatively diverse wine list (there's also a separate bottle selection that's not pictured). Corkage is a hefty $35 a pop. Click for larger versions.


Sazerac [$15.00] | Basil Hayden 95 Rye, Deli Rye, Absinthe
As usual, we went through a good number of cocktails, and got things going with 189's take on the iconic Sazerac. The nose was pleasant, though sweeter than anticipated, with a light candied quality creeping in. Taste-wise, there was plenty of rye spice and heat at first, but this was joined by a marked fruitiness and an almost suanmei-like sensation toward the close.


48-Hour Homemade Sourdough & Butter [$6.00]
The sourdough didn't disappoint with its crustiness and persistent lactic tartness. And the butter? Soft, sweet, salty, superb.


Steamed Egg Custard, Asparagus Coins, Stripes, & Tips [$12.00] | Lemon Olive Oil, Kombu Salt, Espelette
A warm egg custard conveyed a richness that stood up to the bitter crunch of asparagus. I wanted more acidity, more punch to the dish though.


Baby Eggplant & Port-roasted Figs Tartine [$13.00] | Jicama, Coriander Flowers, Good Crusty Sourdough
Our tartine showcased a definite sweet-tartness from the figs, tempered by the combined smokiness of the bread and eggplant, all while jicama imparted a lightness and crunch.


Mai Tai [$15.00] | Overproof Rum, Orgeat, Passionfruit and Leaves
A reworked Mai Tai had a nose filled with tropical fruit and alcoholic heat. The palate followed, with its sugary, nutty nuances evened out by the booziness of the rum.


Seared Hen of the Woods Mushrooms [$10.00] | Fresh Egg Cacio e Pepe Sauce, Shaved Parmesan
Mushrooms were smoky and savory, their woodsy character working in tandem with the eggy sauce on the bottom and a good dosing of pepper and Parm.


Pull-Apart Sweet Corn "Elotes" Milk Bread [$8.00]
The milk bread was a fun one, really recalling the cheesy, sour, and spicy elements that you get in a classic elote.


"Clam Chowder" [$18.00] | with Little Neck Clam Tortellini, Bacon, Lovage, and Ajo Blanco
A non-traditional clam chowder worked. The brine of the little necks was well displayed, complemented by the smokiness of bacon and the brightness from all that greenery.


Old Fashioned [$15.00] | Cutty Sark Scotch, Charred Macadamia, Quina
An updated Old Fashioned cocktail displayed a nose of aromatic sweet spice, light citrus, and dark fruit. The taste went in a boozy, spicy, slightly bitter direction at first, with sweet, soft, fruity notes coming in later.


Simple Salt and Pepper Spare Back Ribs [$18.00] | Squeeze of Golden Pineapple Juice
The ribs were a favorite of mine, and were some of the best I've had in recent times. I found 'em super tender, yet still substantial, with a delightfully smoky flavor profile perked up by a squirt of the included pineapple. A bit Chinese-y, actually.


Confit Duck Gizzards [$16.00] | Crispy Potato Galette, Shallots, White Balsamic, Bibb Lettuce
Gizzards conveyed a satisfying bite, while flavors were rich and earthy--a great pairing with those crispy hash browns. The lettuce, meanwhile, was crucial, providing a lightness and brightness that really completed the dish. Another standout.


Oven-roasted Rainbow Carrots [$11.00] | Citrus Cilantro Relish, Shaved Chestnut
Carrots arrived soft and sticky, and absolutely teeming with sweet, autumnal spice. The char astringency present worked as a counterpoint, as did the zestiness of that cilantro relish.


Milk Punch [$15.00] | Beau VS Cognac, Honey, Peychaud's, Gold
189's version of milk punch smelled milky and sweet--nice. Flavors, meanwhile, were more astringent at first blush, with the floral, bittersweet combination of Peychaud's and honey coming in later.


Dirty Potatoes [$10.00] | Smashed and Crispy, Paprika Pommery Mustard, Whole-roasted Garlic Head
I was a fan of the potatoes, a particularly hefty, hearty preparation offset by the application of mustard and plenty of garlic.


Grilled Fruit-Marinated Short Rib [$32.00] | Deep Balsamic Reduction, Winter Squash
Short ribs came out tender and juicy, with aggressive flavors that definitely veered savory, salty, and smoky--very tasty. The squash, though, didn't quite fit in for me, and I would've liked some more acid in there.


Hand-mixed Acorn Squash Gnocchi, Young Radishes [$18.00] | Sage, a love of Brown Butter
Gnocchi were supple and creamy, with a restrained sweetness and nuttiness from the brown butter. Sage provided some nice aromatics, and I appreciated the bitter crunch from the radishes, too.


White Negroni [$15.00] | Brooklyn Gin, Pear, Genepy, Kombu
Our next cocktail was a fancifully garnished Negroni variation. This one smelled decidedly herby and botanical, with some heat from the gin and a smidge of pear. The taste went in the same herbal direction, but also showed off a distinct fruitiness that made for some balance.


Rotisserie Baby Chicken, Black Garlic Rice Stuffing [$45.00/Whole] | Chilled Spicy Scallion Salad, a shot of Chicken Jus
Our final savory was a fairly classic rendition of roasted chicken. I found the bird properly moist, even on the white meat, while the skin was as flavorful as expected. What was more interesting were the Korean-esque accompaniments here. The savory, well-textured rice stuffing recalled soondae, while the spicy scallions were pretty much pa muchim. Or maybe this was just supposed to be jeongigui tongdak?


Given where we were, we felt compelled to order all the desserts, which are definitely on the whimsical side. Click for a larger version.


"Knife Skills" [$12.00] | Apples Five Ways
With its flaky puff pastry, sweet-n-sour-n-spicy crab apple, sugary caramelized apple, and bright, bracing apple sorbet, our first dessert was either a reimagined fruit plate or a deconstructed apple pie.


Presidente [$15.00] | Agricole and Demerara Rums, Banana, Vermouth
As far as cocktails go, this next one was a standout. Its bouquet was appealing, with a sweet heat from the rums layered with dark fruit. On the palate, I found it boozy and a touch tart, with lots more dark fruit commingled with light banana and sweet spice.


"The Well" [$12.00] | Milk, Wildflower Honey, Passionfruit Gelée, Wildflower Honey, Fennel
Here we had a spot on marriage of milk, honey, and sugary fruit, along with some great, meringue-like textures.


"Trimmings" [$12.00] | Dark Chocolate, Peanut, Bergamot Caramel, Maldon Salt, Dark Rum
Crescent-shaped cakes displayed a cozy combination of chocolate and peanut flavors, joined by rich caramel and a touch of fruity rum.


"Traditions" [$12.00] | Almond Sponge, Three Milks (Milk, Evaporated Milk, Banana Milk), Spice Bouquet, Orange, Fromage Blanc
An almond sponge bread was superb when soaked in the included cup of fruity, spiced-infused tres leches.


Brown Derby [$15.00] | Eagle Rare, Grapefruit, Brûlée
Our final cocktail was another favorite of mine, and even came with a tableside torching of grapefruit. Its nose was honeyed and spicy, with a wisp of smoke. In terms of taste, I got rich grapefruit combined with soft spice and an unexpected hit of umami toward the close. In addition, there was an interesting textural component from all the grapefruit vesicles left in the drink.


"Roast" [$12.00] | Chestnuts, Coffee, Caramel, Whiskey, Nutmeg, Cedar Wood, Activated Charcoal
This next dessert was apropos for the season with its commingling of chestnut, caramel, and nutmeg. I especially appreciated the roasty crunch of the coffee beans here, but my favorite element were the charcoal-coated blocks of ice cream.


Gooseberry Elderflower Pavlova [$7.50] | Light-as-air vanilla meringue, fresh gooseberries, elderflower jam, and mascarpone whipped ganache
Given that this was a birthday dinner, we were provided a complimentary pavlova from the bakery downstairs. Think creamy and lactic, with a bit of a funk, all set against the sourness of the fruit.


To take home: the Bakery's Homemade Granola with hazelnuts, almonds, dried cherries, and golden raisins.

Despite my trepidations about the restaurant, we ended up having a pretty solid meal at 189. The food's rooted in French cookery, but incorporates a number of outside-the-box twists that Ansel's known for. I also got a glimpse of the kitchen's more multicultural, Californian influences, which I'd like to see more of. The menu could use some finessing here and there, but I think there's promise, especially given that the place just opened. A good addition to The Grove.

---

As this was a birthday, one of my dining companions baked a Hello Kitty cake. Unfortunately we weren't allowed to consume it in the restaurant, so we ended up eating it outside. It was a dense, vanilla-scented yellow cake with chocolate frosting, one that definitely had me feeling all nostalgic. On a related note, Ansel really needs to do a limited edition Hello Kitty Cronut.


To go with the cake, we opened up a bottle of the 2017 Bottle Logic Reaction State, a breakfast stout aged in maple syrup-enriched bourbon barrels, then finished with cacao nibs, cinnamon, Tahitian vanilla, and barrel-aged Coldbot coffee. Its nose was sweet and roasty, with traces of cinnamon, while the taste displayed sweet cinnamon-y spice alongside roasty coffee, chocolate, and an undercurrent of rich maple. Actually a very fitting pairing to Hello Kitty.

LA Brisket (Artesia, CA)

December 22, 2017, 7:55 pm

≫ Next: Restaurant 917 (Carson, CA)

≪ Previous: 189 by Dominique Ansel (Los Angeles, CA)

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L.A. Brisket BBQ Restaurant
18189 Pioneer Blvd, Artesia, CA 90701
562.356.8277
www.labrisket.com
Fri 12/22/2017, 7:55p-09:10p



I recently found myself in the Artesia area looking to pick up some food to go, and ended up at LA Brisket, a BBQ joint that, as far as I can tell, opened at the start of 2016. It's not clear to me if the barbeque has a specific regional focus, though I'd go with Texas-style if I had to guess.


The menu follows a familiar format, with a choice of four meats available in multiple formats, joined by some sides.


Elote [$4.00]
I can't seem to not order elote (or esquites) when I see it on a menu these days, so here we are. The dish did a nice job capturing the essence of street corn with its well-textured kernels doused with a good amount of cheese, chile powder, and lime.


Brisket [$11.00 / ½ pound]
We made sure to try all the available meats, and unfortunately LA Brisket's namesake cut was a disappointment. I found it lacking in smoke flavor, or flavor at all for that matter. Besides being bland, the beef also ate tough, chewy, dry. There were pretty much no redeeming qualities, save for the bread (a soft, crusty baguette) and sauces (a tangy BBQ and a zesty cilantro) I suppose.


L.A. Slaw [$3.00]
The coleslaw could've used some more variety, but nevertheless fit the bill, with a subtle sweetness balanced out by a persistent acidity.


To go with the 'cue, we opened up a bottle of the 2017 Bruery Terreux Bouffon, an oak foeder-aged sour witbier brewed with bitter orange peel and coriander that was created in collaboration with Austin's Jester King. Nose of tart stone fruit and light barnyard. The palate conveyed more of that aforementioned fruit, along with peppery spice, subtle yeast, and lemon, all with a dry finish. Nice and refreshing.


Pulled Pork [$8.00 / ½ pound]
This was a pretty solid rendition of pulled pork. Texturally, I found it tender, yet substantial, while flavors were slightly sweet, but still highlighted the inherent character of the meat.


Fries [$4.00]
Fries were somewhat underseasoned, and otherwise fairly typical.


Pork Ribs [$16.95 / ½ rack]
Unlike with most ribs in town these days, the meat here didn't "fall off the bone." It required some work, though fortunately the effort was largely worth it. Think homey and unabashedly porky, with a proper smoke and just a touch of sweetness on the back end.


Our second beer was the 2017 Ballast Point High West Barrel Aged Victory at Sea, an imperial porter with Caffè Calabria coffee and vanilla beans that was aged in combination of High West bourbon and rye barrels. This one smelled strong of rich cocoa with a subtle booziness--very appealing. Taste-wise, I got spicy oak and smoke at first, joined by roasty coffee, dark chocolate, whiskey, and light vanilla, all over a malty base.


Rice [$3.00]
The rice was better than expected, with just enough garlickiness to keep things interesting.


Pulled Chicken [$8.00 / ½ pound]
Our fourth and final meat managed to be my favorite of the night. The chicken was spot on texturally, coming out supple yet sturdy, with a nice juiciness. Flavor-wise, I got a lovely pepperiness that complemented the bird without overwhelming it.

People seem to love this place, though I can't say that I do as well. The menu items I sampled were generally decent to good, but that brisket (generally my favorite BBQ meat) was pretty unforgivable. I guess I'm in the minority though, as the team just opened up a second location at The LAB in Costa Mesa. I won't be in a rush to try it out.

Restaurant 917 (Carson, CA)

January 13, 2018, 5:40 pm

≫ Next: Kantaro Sushi (Torrance, CA)

≪ Previous: LA Brisket (Artesia, CA)

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Restaurant 917 at the Porsche Experience Center Los Angeles
19800 S Main St, Carson, CA 90745
310.527.0917
www.restaurant917.com
Sat 01/13/2018, 05:40p-08:35p





Restaurant 917 has got to be one of the more out-of-the-way places I've visited. It's tucked away on the second floor of a 50,000 square-foot building at the Porsche Experience Center, a $60 million facility spread over 53 acres at the intersection of the 110 and 405. The PEC opened at the start of November 2016 as a spot where enthusiasts can immerse themselves in all things Porsche. Attractions include a retail shop, Porsche Motorsport North America facilities, displays, a restoration area, driving simulators, conference/meeting space, and of course the driver development track. This is all in addition to the restaurant (named after the iconic 917 racer that won Le Mans), which is helmed by Executive Chef Matt Lee.

About the Chef: An LA area native, Lee grew up Torrance and started his cooking career at the age of 16 doing prep work at a local sushi bar. After high school, he enrolled at the CSCA in Pasadena, and following graduation, went on to work at Saddle Peak Lodge under Warren Schwartz. In 2007, Lee joined Bon Appétit Management Company and was appointed sous at the Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades. He worked his way up the chain, and later became CdC and then, in 2015, Executive Chef at the Restaurant at The Getty Center.

He's assisted in the kitchen by exec sous Anita Lau, while the front-of-the-house is managed by GM Bobby Bognar. Interestingly, from 2011 to 2016 Bognar owned The Point in Culver City (the cafe-turned-Mexican spot previously operated by Mark Peel). He also worked at the Restaurant at the Getty (for two years alongside Lee), Crossroads Kitchen, Geoffrey's Malibu, The Palm, and Patina group, and has also dabbled in television and music.


The restaurant is a handsome space, with lots of wood and a sweeping view of the track--sort of what you'd expect from the folks at Porsche Design. Seating capacity is 76, with another dozen or so in the private dining room.


As for the menu, I'd say that it falls under the New American banner, with some Asian-y influences, and apparently Chef Lee also sources all his produce from within 150 miles of the restaurant. In addition, there's a lunch menu featuring many of the same dishes, as well as an abbreviated happy hour offering. Drink-wise, you get a few not-terribly-interesting cocktails, a small selection of beers, and a compact, mostly French and Californian wine list. Corkage is $25 a pop. Click for larger versions.


new fashioned [$14.00] | maker's mark, walnut bitters, orange peel
Our first cocktail was a variation on the Old Fashioned. I got an intensely aromatic nose filled with brown sugar and toffee, with citrus and booziness layered on top. The taste showcased sweet, caramel-y notes, along with a hint of the advertised walnut, more citrus, and a boozy spice underneath it all.



The pretzel bread was slightly addictive (we requested a second serving), and paired beautifully with the soft, sweet pats of butter, famously modeled after the Porsche 911 (specifically the 991.1 we were told).


Thai Curry Clams [$15.00] | prawn, chorizo, thai basil, rau ram, grilled ciabatta, tom kha broth
Clams were well-textured, and I enjoyed how their brine played against that sweet-ish, just-spicy-enough, tom kha-inspired broth. Also much appreciated were the medallions of chorizo, which imparted a welcomed blast of salt and savor, and also worked to give the dish some substance.


blood orange margarita [$13.00] | tequila, fresh orange juice, blood orange, fresh lime juice
Our margarita was a bit thin, though its flavors were assertive, with lots of smoky, woodsy nuances leading to plenty of citrus fruit.


Hamachi Crudo [$15.00] | fennel, citrus, watermelon radish, cucumber, smoked ginger, blood orange vinaigrette
Cuts of yellowtail were soft and fatty, and paired well with the savoriness and crunch of black garlic chips while the veggies added a much needed brightness. The vinaigrette sort of tied everything together, and I liked the pops of citrus from what I believe was finger lime, too.


Spanish Octopus [$15.00] | brussels sprouts, lardo, sherry vinegar, harissa aioli, bacon crumble
Octopus came out dense, firm, meaty, and went like clockwork with the heat from that harissa aioli. The Brussels really worked as well, providing a nice bitterness and textural contrast, while the chicharrones offered up a welcomed crunch and saltiness.


ice hill [$13.00] | dewar's, lemon, mint, simple syrup
The evening's third and final cocktail married Scotch with complementary notes of lemon and mint. The drink definitely had a sweetness to it as well, and surprisingly, the finish tasted strongly of tea.


Diver Scallops [$30.00] | spaghetti squash, chanterelles, dashi-soy butter
Scallops were pretty much perfectly cooked, with a great salinity and proper amounts of sear. The mushrooms provided an additional dose of umami to the dish, and I really appreciated the lightness and texture provided by the bok choy.


Tomahawk Pork Chop, 14oz [$39.00] | grand marnier glazed apples, celery, rosemary bacon crumble, honey mustard cream
The pork chop was a winner, arriving juicy and supple, and infused with liberal amounts of rosemary. Apples were fortunately not overly sweet, and the bitterness from the celery here actually worked.


At this point I opened up a bottle of the 2015 de Garde Imperial Blu Bu, a Berliner Weisse aged in oak with blueberries. The nose showed off expected notes of yeast, barnyard, wood, and sour fruit. Taste-wise, I got a lactic funk joined by puckering sourness, lemon, a definite acidity, and berries in the background.


Kobe New York Striploin, 12oz [$45.00] | pee wee potatoes, rainbow cauliflower, tomato confit, pickled onion, port reduction
The steak wasn't truly Kobe of course, but instead American wagyu. That being said, it was still rather delicious: think tender, with nicely integrated marbling and a lovely char and savor. The various veggies worked as a complement to the beef, though I would've preferred a touch less sweetness on the port sauce.


Desserts follow the form of the rest of the menu, and are the task of Pastry Chef Eun Bee Lee, a 2014 graduate of the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park. She cooked for a brief period at the Walt Disney Concert Hall before joining Matt Lee at the Getty and following him to 917. Click for a larger version.


Chestnut Mousse [$10.00] | sponge cake, cinnamon crumbs, spiced chocolate, crème fraîche ice cream
The chestnut mousse displayed sugary, dark fruit-like flavors along with a smidge of nuttiness. The aerated sponge cake made sense here, as did the spicy crumbles and delightfully light 'n' bright ice cream.


Lemon Verbena Crème Brûlée [$10.00] | berry sauce, brown butter streusel, orange-early grey shortbread, market berries
An untraditionally-shaped crème brûlée ate dense, sweet, and eggy, its heft evened out by the unmistakable zestiness of lemon verbena. Berries worked as a tart, tangy counterpoint, and I liked the shortbread, too.


To close: caramel-filled chocolates were spot on.

Given the place's somewhat odd circumstances, I have to say that Restaurant 917 was sort of a pleasant surprise. The food's probably better than is necessary, which is great. The cooking manages to be relatively interesting, yet not intimidating to the restaurant's target clientele (i.e. Porsche owners and other automotive enthusiasts). There aren't exactly a lot of notable dining spots in the area (especially fancier ones), so I'm glad to have 917 as an option.

Kantaro Sushi (Torrance, CA)

January 14, 2018, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: The Hobbit (Orange, CA)

≪ Previous: Restaurant 917 (Carson, CA)

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Kantaro Sushi Restaurant
1542 W Carson St, Torrance, CA 90501
310.320.0200
www.facebook.com/pages/Kantaro-Sushi/116768978347286 (unofficial)
Sun 01/14/2018, 07:30p-09:30p





Kantaro's a spot that had never been on my sushi radar, and was only introduced to me recently by a friend. Situated in the corner of a strip mall that looks like it's been there forever, the restaurant was opened back in 1991 by Chef Tadashi "Kantaro" Oguma and his wife Erika, who handles the front-of-the-house. Reservations are strongly suggested, for dinner at least.


In the evenings, Kantaro is an omakase-only place (at the bar), and there's just one option priced at a reasonable $49 a head, though you'll find an à la carte sushi menu as well from which to supplement. To drink, just the basic beers, a few well-priced sakes, and wine you probably don't want. Click for larger versions.


1a: Cucumber Salad
The first of two sakizuke consisted of sliced kyuri dressed with what appeared to be a sauce of cooked tuna and sesame. Think nutty and sweet and savory, all set against the brightness and crunch of the cucumbers.


1b: Potato & Cabbage Salad
Our next appetizer married a creamy potato salad with a crunchy, tangy cabbage slaw.


2: Sashimi
The star of our sashimi moriawase was black sole (karei I assume), a mild-tasting fish that really called for a dip of the included ponzu. Two different parts were provided, making for a contrast in texture. Also present were firm cuts of Hawaiian tuna that really sang with a dab of wasabi, as well as a classic preparation of ankimo (monkfish liver), replete with momiji oroshi and negi.


We opted for the Kubota Senju [$30] to go with our meal, a robust, tokubetsu honjozo-class, go-to sake of mine that generally pairs decently well with just about anything. Note also the low markup, as the bottle typically retails for around $25.


3a: Toro Tuna
The parade of nigiri began with Spanish tuna belly, a fatty, rich, oily, melt-in-your-mouth cut that was offset just enough by the included wasabi.


3b: Amberjack
Kanpachi from Kyushu arrived firm and meaty--with a distinct "snap" to it--and linked up well with some soy sauce.


4a: Whitefish
Halibut (shiromi) came from Jeju Island. A squirt of lemon did a good job counteracting the spiciness of yuzukosho, while the finish conveyed a combination of scallion zest and chili-fueled heat. At the same time though, the fish never felt overwhelmed.


4b: Scallop
Hokkaido hotategai, meanwhile, was soft and creamy, with a nice sweetness that married up effortlessly with more of that yuzukosho.


5a: Sea Urchin
Uni was cool and creamy, with a restrained brine and oceany sweetness that ended up nicely tempered by the combination of rice and seaweed.


5b: Salmon Roe
Ikura was prototypical, its pops of salinity really working hand-in-hand with the requisite nori.


6: Fried Black Sole
The remainder of our fish from the sashimi course above was subsequently deep-fried and served. I found it crispy on the outside yet soft and fluffy on the inside, with a mild taste that really sang with a squeeze of lemon. Be sure to eat the bones too, which were fried to a cracker-like consistency.


7a: Pressed Sushi
Next was the oshizushi, a relatively rare sight these days. I found the rice dense, sticky, and especially vinegary, while toppings of shrimp and salmon worked well enough.


7b: Mini Chirashi Bowl
The hero of our miniature chirashi was that creamy, fresh amaebi, which was joined by tuna, octopus, and masago. Also appreciated was what appeared to be pico de gallo, which added a wonderful brightness to the course.


8: Fried Shrimp Head
The head of the sweet shrimp above was then delivered deep-fried and was just as crunchy and salty and satisfying as I wanted. Always a treat.


9a: Sea Eel
A traditional preparation of anago matched the soft-fleshed fish with a sweet-ish sauce and sprinkles of nutty sesame.


9b: Mountain Yam Hand Roll
Our lone temaki combined crunchy-yet-mucilaginous cuts of yamaimo with the omnipresent spice of mentaiko, the shiso imparting an overarching mintiness to the dish.


9c: Egg
The tamago, interestingly, included cream cheese, which seems wrong but worked surprisingly well.


10: Miso Soup
A hot, homey, cozy misoshiru signified the end of the savory portion of meal.


Salmon Skin Roll [$4.90]
At this point, we ordered a couple of cut uramaki rolls to fill up that last remaining bit of space in our stomachs. This salmon skin variant was par for the course, with its smoky, saline flavors moderated by the veggies and rice.


Spicy Tuna Roll [$6.90]
The spicy tuna was also exactly what you'd expect, and conveyed a pleasant nuttiness from all the sesame that really worked as a counterpoint to the roll's heat.


11a: Green Tea Ice Cream
Dessert time. The matcha ice cream was a particularly creamy example, with a definite roasty bitterness to it.


11b: Red Bean Ice Cream
Here, the signature sweetness of azuki was well presented.


Proprietors Erika Oguma and "Kantaro" Tadashi Oguma. Note the Hello Kitty apron.

Kantaro sort of flies under the radar as far as sushi spots in LA go, so I'm glad that I was introduced to the place, which definitely seems like a neighborhood-y type of haunt. There's both value and variety here, making this a good mid-tier sushi option in the South Bay.

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The ice creams above didn't completely satisfy our desire for dessert, so after dinner we headed up the street to the 85°C Bakery Cafe at Eastgate Plaza and got ourselves a Sea Salt Coffee Brulee cake. Not bad at all.