The Hobbit Restaurant
2932 E Chapman Ave, Orange, CA 92869
714.997.1972
www.hobbitrestaurant.com
Thu 01/25/2018, 6:40p-11:00p





If we're talking about "old school" sort of restaurants in Orange County, The Hobbit is one that immediately comes to mind. It's a place that I'd heard about well before I even started this site, and I finally got around to visiting at the start of this year. The Hobbit's open Wednesdays through Sundays only, with one seating at 7:00pm (though the bar opens an hour prior), and the meal takes roughly four hours. Reservations are absolutely required, and this is one of the few places in SoCal that have a dress code (jackets recommended, collared-and-buttoned shirt with slacks required; no jeans, no shorts, no tennis shoes or flip-flops).

A bit of history: The Hobbit opened all the way back in 1972, the brainchild of Howard and Beverly Philippi, a local couple from Long Beach. The two were both chefs (they did catering) as well as Francophiles, and eventually purchased a Ukrainian eatery called Ukramada Dinnerhouse with partner/painting contractor Ken Burnap (who later started Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard in 1975), turning the 1930s Spanish abode into The Hobbit. Given that OC lacked many fine dining options at the time, the restaurant was a smashing success, booked solid almost every night. The Philippis also had a son, Michael "Mike" Philippi, and he grew up in the family business, though he did work other jobs. He eventually found his way back to the hospitality biz though, starting out as a server at Cafe Lafayette and later moving up to Saratoga for a job. In the late 1970s, Mike and partner John Balesky (Club 33, Chez Cary) purchased The Hobbit from his parents (who later moved up to Soquel and opened Howard's Salmon Poacher), the former working as Executive Chef and the latter as Sommelier.

Not much has changed since then. Later on, Mike's wife Debra joined the team, and currently functions as Event Coordinator. The dining room is helmed by GM Matthew McKinney, a Biola grad who initially started at The Hobbit in February 2006, left for Texas in 2012 (Bob's Steak and Chop House), then returned to California, finding employment at Mastro's and Montage Laguna Beach before returning here. He's assisted by Sommelier Amy Cody, while Querétaro native Hector Gudino is Chef de Cuisine.


I arrived early, so I quickly made my way to the upstairs bar to enjoy a couple pre-dinner cocktails.


Cinnamon Sidecar [$15.00] | Cinnamon Brandy, Citrus & Orange Liqueur
First up was this variation on the classic sidecar cocktail. My initial impression was that it was rather sweet, but fortunately there was a strong citrus component as well as a boozy heat underpinning it all. The actual cinnamon was light, and showed up more on the back end.


Japanese Highball [$15.00] | Kikori, Nikka, Yuzu Liqueur
Next came a common preparation of Japanese whisky. I found the cocktail light and fizzy, but at the same time, the spirits were clearly the focus and very apparent. What wasn't particularly apparent, however, was the advertised yuzu.


The Hobbit has been known for its wine selection right from the very beginning (early on, the founders would drive down bottles from Northern California), so I suppose it's fitting that your evening proper begins in the cellar. Upon arriving, you're presented with a glass of bubbly (an off-dry Hobbit "Champagne") and a spread of various hors d'oeuvre. You're invited to peruse and pick out a bottle to enjoy with dinner later, and the sommelier is on hand to assist of course. There are over 1000 labels on offer, many at reasonable prices, with strengths being the Californian and French selections.








1: Champagne & Hors d Oeuvres
Here we see the evening's hors d'œuvre spread. As for my favorites, I'd go with the flaky ham/cheese tart and steak tartar.


Down in the cellar, you're also handed a copy of the evening's menu, which is a seven-course, prix-fixe affair priced at $88 a head, not including tax, tip, or drinks. The food is described as "Contemporary Continental," which I'm assuming means it's based in classic French cookery, but with a smidge of multicultural influence. The main course rotates every few days and is listed well ahead of time on the web site, and there's always an alternate fish selection for an additional charge. A wine pairing is available at $50 a person, though custom options are also a possibility. Corkage, meanwhile, is $25 for the first bottle and $35 for the second, with a limit of two bottles irrespective of party size, annoyingly. Click for a larger version.



After some time, guests move upstairs to one of two dining areas to enjoy their starter and salad courses.



I enjoyed the bread, which I found cheesy and herby, while the soft, sweet-ish butter arrived in rose form.


2: Herb Roasted Salmon, Israeli Couscous, Blood Orange Beurre Blanc
Our first real course was salmon. I found it cooked a tad more than I'd prefer, but it was still workable, coming out flaky, firm, and with a very strong salinity. The sweetness of the beurre blanc provided a contrast, and I appreciated the textural variation from the couscous and breadcrumb(?) crust on the fish.


To go with our earlier courses, we opened up a bottle that one of my dining companions had brought, the Marcassin, Marcassin Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 2012, a lovely representation of a California Chardonnay. I found the nose rich, aggressive, filled with nutty, funky, spicy notes and a definite butteriness. The palate was round, with a somewhat Burgundian character and oaky, citric, almond-like nuances joined by a boozy, anise-y spice.


3: Petite Veal Osso Bucco, Po Valley Black Rice, Veal Jus
The Hobbit's ossobuco was as tender as I wanted, coming cleanly off the bone, while flavors were simple and straightforwardly savory, the mirepoix providing a bit of moderating brightness. I did enjoy the black rice as a substitute for the traditional polenta, and be sure to suck out the marrow as well.


4: Arugula & Endive Salad, Fuyu Persimmons, Candied Pecans & Crispy Prosciutto
Our salad course combined the bitterness of arugula and endive with the sweetness of persimmon and pecan, the ham adding a welcomed saltiness and crunch to the mix. Effective, though not terribly exciting.


At this point, we were given an "intermission" of sorts where we were allowed to roam freely around the property. We found this sitting room upstairs.


5: Sorbet
After a while, we were instructed to return to our seats for a palate-cleanser in the form of an orange sorbet.


Next, we poured the Heitz, Martha's Vineyard, Napa Valley 2004 [$260], a California Cabernet Sauvignon that'd been decanting this whole time. Delightfully perfumed aroma filled with dark berry and flowers, along with a touch of heat and spice. Taste-wise, this really stood up to the food, giving up notes of mature dark fruit, licorice, peppery spice, and herb in a concentrated package. Do note that the online wine list incorrectly had the price of the bottle at $200, so something to keep in mind.


6a: Filet of Beef en Crôute | Filet Mignon with Mushroom Duxelles, wrapped in Puff Pastry, sauce Bordelaise
The night's primary main was the Chef's take on filet de bœuf en croûte. It was a pretty prototypical presentation, with a relatively restrained beefiness from the filet marrying well with flavors of mushroom and black pepper. The veggies here worked, as did the Bordelaise, though there was a chunk of sugary fruit on the side though that didn't quite make sense to me.


6b: Fresh Pacific Halibut, Baby Bok Choy, New Year's Black Eyed Peas & Ginger Sauce
We also tried the alternate main, and it managed to be my favorite course of the meal. The fish ate moist and mild, with a light brine, while the ginger sauce gave the dish a Chinese-y feel. In addition, I liked the brightness and crunch of the bok choy, and the beans added a nice heftiness to it all. Very nice when paired with the Chard above.


With the savories done with, we were presented with a list of after-dinner drinks. Click for larger versions.


7: Almond Cake, House made Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Fresh Strawberry
A classic combination of strawberries and vanilla ice cream made for a fitting complement to almond cake. What was interesting here was that I got a sort of savory quality from the brush of sauce across the plate; I'm not sure if that was intended or not.

It was nice to finally make it out to The Hobbit after all these years. Dining here is definitely an experience, which I think is the whole point of it all, and it was no doubt enjoyable to have a meal at such a leisurely pace. As for the food, it was fine, staid and conservative certainly, and basically exactly what I expected. It's all a bit of a throwback to be sure, but if that's what you're looking for, you should be well served here.

Basilic Restaurant
217 Marine Ave, Newport Beach, CA 92662
949.673.0570
www.basilicrestaurant.com
Tue 02/06/2018, 8:15p-10:20p





Situated on Newport's Balboa Island, Basilic is one of OC's older-line eateries, one that celebrated its 20th anniversary last year. The restaurant is named after the French word for "basil" (the Chef's favorite herb), and features French-Swiss fare. It's especially well-known for its raclette, a traditional Alpine dish featuring a melted cow's milk cheese alongside potatoes, pickles, and charcuterie. In fact, Basilic features a "Raclette Night" the first Tuesday of every month in the fall/winter, which is exactly what we came for.

About the Chef: Executive Chef/Owner Bernard Althaus hails from the small town of Faoug in Switzerland, and grew up in the restaurant business, as his family operated a local establishment called Restaurant de la Gare. He went to school in Lausanne and apprenticed at the nearby Restaurant Le Chalet Suisse, then moved to the US to cook for the French team at the 1970 America's Cup. Continuing on with the nautical theme, Althaus subsequently served as a private chef for charters in the Caribbean, then later returned home to Switzerland. In 1990, the Chef and his wife Arlette (along with their two kids) visited Newport to attend the wedding of an uncle. They ended up traveling around the country in an RV for a year, then finally settled in Orange County. Althaus soon started cooking under fellow countryman Ernst Zingg at The Cellar in Fullerton, and also spent nearly two years at Pascal Olhats' eponymous Pascal. He then worked for five years at Mezzanine at the Towers in Irvine before debuting Basilic in February 1997.


Basilic occupies a site that was previously home to Andre Lechien's Andre, as well as Tete-a-Tete (its owners Christophe and Juerg Boo also ran Mezzanine), Steinbeck's Creative Cuisine, and Hemingway's before that. It's a cozy, homey space, reminiscent of something you might encounter in the Alps, and seats only about two dozen or so.


Our menu featured a limited selection of starters and two mains alongside the hero of the evening: that AYCE raclette. To drink, you get a wine list (rendered in Comic Sans) that's French-focused as expected, though there's decent New World representation. Corkage, meanwhile, is $25 a pop. Click for larger versions.


Canapé duties were handled by a plate of miniature quiches with caramelized onion and bacon. Think cheesy and salty, but with an onion-y zest, all set in a dry, crumbly pastry crust.


Swiss Onion Soupe [$8.00]
I'm not quite sure what the difference is between this and a traditional French onion soup; I think it has something to do with the broth. In any case, it tasted just as you'd expect, with deep, dark flavors of sweet and savory interacting in classic fashion.


The bread was fairly typical, though it did do a nice job in evening out all the cheese we were about to have.


House Salad [$8.00] | basil dressing
I wasn't terribly excited about the salad, though it worked just fine. The best part was its zippy, basil-based dressing.


To drink, we had a bottle of the 2015 Council Anniversary House Red, an imperial sour red ale fermented in oak with Lactobacillus, Pediococcus, and Brettanomyces, then finished with Malbec grapes. It had an appealing nose filled with funk, oak, and red berry fruit, with subtle notes of Band-Aid coming through as the beer warmed. The taste brought more earthy barnyard and oak, along with a definite yeastiness, some tannins, and puckering acidity, while a lingering fruitiness came through on the mid-palate. Quite nice overall.


Soupe du Jour [$7.00]
The evening's special soup was based on mushroom and asparagus. I got a brief sensation of musky 'shroom at first, but this quickly gave way to a somewhat odd vegetal tartness from the asparagus. I wasn't a big fan.


Here we see Chef Althaus working the raclette cheese melter contraption thingy.


All-You-Can-Eat Raclette with a Swiss Plate [$33.50]
And now for the main attraction. Pictured above is the first plate of raclette I had, and I ended up going back for another three or four servings. The dish may have looked a mess, but tasted oh-so good. The raclette was among the richest, gooiest, most luscious cheeses I've had, and was made even more gratifying by the presence of those charred crispy bits (tastes like Cheez-Its). I loved eating it just by itself, but the jacket potatoes worked beautifully as a moderating element, while also providing some texture to things. Super cozy and comforting.


The raclette was accompanied by a "Swiss Plate" featuring Bündnerfleisch, prosciutto, and saucisson sec. You really can't go wrong with the time-tested combination of meat 'n' cheese. Yum.


Also crucial were the cornichons and pickled onions, which offered up both crunch and acidity--a perfect complement.


"Coq Au Vin" [$24.00] | Marinated Braised Chicken, Egg Noodle in a Burgundy Vine Sauce
In addition to the raclette, we also sampled the Chef's take on one of the most iconic of French dishes. I found the chicken falling-apart tender and heartily flavored, with plenty of vinous notes from its Burgundy sauce and a healthy dosing of herbaceousness to go along. Also of interest were the noodles, which worked as a welcomed contrast to the bird.


We had to end with some desserts, naturally. Click for larger versions.


Caramelized Pecan Walnut Chocolate Tart [$8.00] | With Crème Anglaise
The tart was a bit heavy-handed with the nuts, and I actually would've preferred more chocolate for balance.


Crème Brulée [$8.00] | Soft Vanilla Custard Mixed With Fresh Berries & a Glazed Sugar Crust
Our crème brûlée was definitely on the eggy, thicker side, and sported a well-caramelized top and some floral berries for contrast.


Strawberry Ice Cream [$8.00] | Baked Meringue, Whipped Cream, Fresh Strawberries, Berry Sauce
The final dessert was a special, and my favorite of the trio. It was an effective take on the classic combo of berries and cream, and I especially appreciated the lightness of the meringues here.

Having all this cheese didn't get as monotonous as I feared it would, thankfully, and so I really enjoyed my first taste of legit raclette. If you're curious about the dish like I was, I think Basilic would be a good place to give it a shot.

The Mezzanine at NoMad Hotel Los Angeles
649 S Olive St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.358.0000
thenomadhotel.com/los-angeles/dining/mezzanine/
Thu 02/08/2018, 9:15p-12:25a





One of the latest New York transplants to hit LA is the new NoMad Hotel, which dropped on January 21st. The project is the creation of Sydell Group, a hotel management company from Ron Burkle and Andrew Zobler that's also behind the likes of The Line and The Freehand. They opened up the first NoMad, fittingly, in NYC's NoMad district in 2012, and the hotel quickly became known for its culinary program, run by Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, the duo responsible for Eleven Madison Park. The even-more-lauded NoMad Bar debuted next door in 2014. Given the success of the New York property, the Sydell team set their sights on Los Angeles, acquiring the 1922-era, 12-story Giannini Place building in 2015 for $39 million. Later that year, it was announced that the former headquarters of Amadeo Giannini's Bank of Italy was to be transformed into NoMad Los Angeles.

Humm and Guidara are once again running the culinary program for the entire hotel, and there are a number of eating and drinking options available. All-day dining is handled by The Lobby, while just off to the side of that space is Giannini Bar, which serves as the main drinking spot for the site. There's also The Coffee Bar, which functions as a cafe during the day and an aperitivo bar at night, while The Rooftop bar and cafe should be opening in the coming weeks. We were here, though, for The Mezzanine, the hotel's most formal offering, open for dinner only. The Mezzanine also has its own bar, a rather small-ish affair. Of course, Humm's not actually going to be in the kitchen most of the time, so running the day-to-day is Executive Chef Chris Flint.

About the Chef: Flint was born and raised in Bradenton, FL, and started out in the culinary biz as a teen. He eventually made his way to New York, and after cooking for a bit, enrolled at The French Culinary Institute (now known as the International Culinary Center). After graduating in 2002, he landed a line cook position at Kittichai, an upscale Thai eatery at the Sixty Thompson hotel, and worked his way up to sous. Flint left in 2005 to serve as a station chef at David Bouley's eponymous Bouley, and later rose to the rank of sous once again, cooking under CdC César Ramirez (of Brooklyn Fare fame). In 2007, he followed Ramirez to Bar Blanc, and the following year, secured a chef de partie position at Eleven Madison Park. He became sous at EMP in 2009, and in 2011, went on to open The NoMad Restaurant as exec sous. 2013 saw Flint return to Eleven Madison as Chef de Cuisine, a job he kept until leaving in 2017 to head up the kitchen here.

The FOH, meanwhile, is run by GM Jeffrey Tascarella, an alum of NoMad New York and integral part of Humm and Guidara's Make It Nice restaurant group. Wine Director duties are handled by Ryan Bailey, a Sonoma native, CIA Greystone grad, and former NoMad Head Sommelier. On the cocktail side of things, Leo Robitschek serves as Bar Director. Hailing from Venezuela, Robitschek started out at Eleven Madison in 2005 and was promoted to Head Bartender in 2009. He's also the guy behind NoMad NY's original Elephant Bar and current NoMad Bar. Second in command is Bar Manager Dave Purcell, who comes to NoMad from Melrose Umbrella Co, Dirty Laundry, and Playa. Assisting Purcell is Adam George Fournier, last seen at Faith & Flower.




The Mezzanine is a U-shaped space that overlooks The Lobby, with two dining areas connected by the Mezzanine Bar. Seating capacity is around 100.


We'd arrived early for our reservation, and thus headed on over to Mezzanine Bar to wait it out.


Here's the view from Mezzanine Bar to The Lobby below.


One of the private dining rooms.


Divided simply into sections for snacks, apps, and mains, the menu possesses a modern American-slash-Californian feel to it that's pretty much exactly what I expected. Click for larger versions.


Drink-wise, you get a compact array of beers and a considerable wine list (not pictured), but we were most interested in the cocktail selection, which I have to say was one of the most diverse, fascinating lists I've encountered in a while. Click for larger versions.


Improved Whiskey Cocktail [$18.00] | Irish Whiskey, Islay Scotch, Demerara, Maraschino Liqueur, Absinthe
We got started with this improved Improved Whiskey Cocktail (itself billed as an improvement to the Old Fashioned). It had an assertive nose dominated by the smokiness of the scotch, with supporting notes of wood, citrus, herb, and spice. On the palate I found the drink thick, chewy almost, with rich flavors of toffee and caramel layered over a persistent boozy spice and accented by wisps of citrus and absinthe in the background.


Dungeness Crab [$26.00] | Salad with Avocado, Apple & Vadouvan
In our first course, a crab salad did an admirable job showcasing the sweetness of Dungeness. The herb salad up top worked as a refreshing counterpoint, as did the pricks of salt. The most interesting part, though, was that subtle hint of vadouvan on the finish.


New York Sour [$16.00] | Bourbon, Mulled Wine, Lemon, Egg White
Next up was a variation of the classic New York Sour cocktail, using mulled wine in place of the usual claret. This one smelled almost like a pumpkin pie, with lots of sweet spices making themselves known. Taste-wise, I got more of that autumnal spice initially, which was later joined by the essence of bourbon and, interestingly, a tartness that recalled Chinese suanmei.


Sea Urchin [$24.00] | Marinated with Avocado, Olive Oil & Sea Salt
Uni had its sweetness meshing well with the lushness of avocado while vesicles of finger lime offered up a tart contrast. There was also a savory element present that recalled dashi. The crux here, though, were the included crackers, which imparted both crunch and a lingering earthiness. One of my dining companions even likened this dish to "saline avocado toast."


Shiitake Dirty to Me [$16.00] | Amontillado Sherry, Islay Scotch, Mushroom, Squash, Honey, Angostura Bitters
I was drawn to this cocktail not only for its ingredients, but for its pun-y name. It smelled intense, with sugary, honeyed, maple-like notes paired with a mushroom-fueled funk. In terms of taste: quite sweet, but never cloying thanks to the sherry-scotch combo and woodsiness provided by the shiitakes. Super long-lasting finish dominated by honey. Note also the ultra-clear ice cube, imprinted with the NoMad logo.


Hamachi [$27.00] | Marinated with Citrus, Daikon & Agretti
Yellowtail arrived properly fatty, its lusciousness offset by the acidity of citrus and crunch of daikon while the agretti provided a lingering astringency.


Gingered-Ale [$10.00] | Ginger, Lime, Demerara Sugar, Sparkling Mineral Water
Here was our sole non-alcoholic cocktail of the night. I found it a fun, fizzy, refreshing take on ginger ale that had a great bite on the back end.


Foie Gras [$34.00] | Torchon with Pears, Red Walnuts & Black Onion
Unsurprisingly, the torchon was on point, a smooth, supple preparation with a refined, yet unmistakably livery taste. There was a slight, but ever-present sweetness from the pear that worked, though the key for me was the use of black onion, which imparted a bitterness that counteracted the foie. Brioche, meanwhile, served as a natural accompaniment, though it was a touch drier than I'd prefer.


Nod to Nothing [$16.00] | London Dry Gin, Lemon, Cocchi Americano, Jasmine Pearl Green Tea, Apricot Liqueur, Yuzu, Sage
We decided to go with lighter spirits for our second round of three cocktails. This was definitely on the easier-drinking side, displaying herbaceous, citric, and bitter elements that led to strong notes of sugary apricot and a finish emphasizing the botanical nature of the gin.



Celery Root [$29.00] | Tortelloni with Black Truffle & Parmesan
The tortelloni managed to be a favorite of ours with its wonderful consistency and spot on interplay between truffle, cheese, and moderating celery root. The course was accompanied by a smoky, woodsy roasted mushroom flatbread, which was delicious in its own right and also worked as a vessel with which to mop up the remaining liquid in the bowl.


El Rey [$17.00] | Highland Blanco Tequila, Fino Sherry, Falernum, Vanilla, Lemon, Blackberry
This was a standout among the lighter cocktails we tasted. I got a tropical, fruity, almost coconut-esque sweetness here, one that was joined by some delightfully nutty notes and the dry, oxidative bent of the Fino. There was even a slight herbaceousness (from the tequila?) that worked, too. Very well integrated--one of my dining companions even commented that he could drink this all day.


Black Cod [$42.00] | Seared with Red Kale, Pears & Horseradish
At this point we moved on to the main courses. Black cod arrived perfectly flaky, its soft, well-seared flesh giving up a delicate, ocean-y sort of savoriness. The fish was a joy to eat, and paired seamlessly with the accompanying kale. I didn't get too much from the horseradish, however.


Dr. Feelgood [$18.00] | Mezcal, Fino Sherry, Suze, Genepy, Avocado, Lime, Cucumber, Aleppo Chili
Our lone mezcal cocktail was relatively subdued. In terms of aroma, I got a blend of vegetal and avocado-like notes, layered over a distinct savory and spicy element. Taste-wise, again that vegetal/herbal character was at the fore (perhaps from the génépi), tempered by avocado and the bittersweetness of Suze while the mezcal was in the background. The rim, of course, imparted a sharp, spicy finish to the drink.


Scallops [$38.00] | Seared with Hen of the Woods, Amaranth & Sorrel
Scallops were superb, coming out well-caramelized and with a wonderfully soft-yet-substantial bite. Their brine just made sense with the contrasting flavors of nutty amaranth and tangy sorrel, all while maitakes offered up an unmistakable earthiness.


Pandan Express [$17.00] | Scotch, Aged Cachaça, Pale Cream Sherry, Brown Butter, Tuaca, Pandan, Orgeat, Lemon, Coconut Water
Our third cocktail round brought us back to the heavier side of things. This first drink had a nose filled with sweet spice and an almost pear-like fruitiness. The palate was on the thin side, with more of that sweetness mixed with light astringency and a palpable nutty character.


Suckling Pig [$42.00] | Confit with Persimmons, Wild Spinach & Bacon Marmalade
A well-defined block of suckling pig confit was perhaps a touch drier than I'd prefer, but definitely delivered in the taste department with its unabashedly rich, porky flavors set against a layer of crispy skin. I wasn't crazy about the persimmons, but the spinach really worked for me.


Detox-Retox [$18.00] | Blended Scotch, Venezuelan Rum, Pineapple Rum, Aged Cachaça, Coconut Water, Angostura
This cocktail featured a blend of four spirits. It smelled great, with dark fruit and brown sugar taking center stage. Taste-wise, there was a cherried, candied sweetness that grabbed our attention, mainly because more than one of us found it reminiscent of Otter Pops (a childhood treat of ours) for some reason.


Beef [$45.00] | Bone Marrow-Crusted with English Peas, Potato Purée & Green Garlic
Filet was used in our beef course, so flavors weren't as robust as I typically prefer; I also would've liked more sear going on. Nevertheless, I did appreciate the tenderness of the cut, as well as the additional texture and richness imparted by the bone marrow. Nice contrasting brightness from the peas and green garlic, too.


En Maison [$18.00] | Japanese Whisky, Rye Whiskey, Amontillado Sherry, Benedictine, Maple Syrup, Verjus, Coffee-Infused Angostura
Here was my favorite cocktail of the third round. It had a nose rife with dark fruit, maple, and coffee, while the palate highlighted the mixing of sherry and scotch, along with more dark fruit, coffee, and an oxidative character on a long-lasting finish.


We ended our savories with NoMad's signature roasted chicken. The bird ended up being presented tableside (it smelled amazingly buttery, by the way) before being taken back into the kitchen for plating.


To go with the chicken, we opted for a bottle of wine, the Balgera, Rosso Di Valtellina 1999 [$85], a Nebbiolo with a good bit of age on it. In terms of bouquet, I found it quite tannic, zippy, with a distinct strawberry quality. Taste-wise, I got lots more berry, along with a strong spice and pepperiness, a bit of heat, and more tannins and acidity on the dry finish. Actually a surprisingly good pairing.



Roast Chicken for Two [$98.00] | Black Truffle & Brioche Stuffing with Baby Turnips & Sesame
We began with the white meat, which had a stuffing of brioche, foie gras, and truffle underneath the crispy skin. It was one of the stronger chicken breasts I've had in recent times, eating tender and moist, with just enough truffle in there. In addition, I enjoyed the counterbalance provided by the accompanying turnip mash with sesame. As for the dark meat, it was pulled and tossed in a brown butter sabayon, and served topped with crisped and crumbled skin. Not surprisingly, this was a much richer, more aggressive presentation, the chicken coming out velvety and imbued with an almost pot pie-like coziness.


Curiously, NoMad partnered with Long Beach's Beachwood Brewing to create Il Pollastro [$9], a Belgian brown ale specifically designed to pair with the chicken. I got a dry nose showcasing some malty, nutty influences and light toffee. The taste leaned toward the roasty, dry side, with again a pronounced nuttiness and restrained bitterness.


Desserts were a must of course, and here they're crafted by Executive Pastry Chef Mark Welker, who handles the sweet stuff at both EMP and NoMad. Click for larger versions.


Milk & Honey [$16.00] | Shortbread, Brittle & Ice Cream
Naturally we had to try NoMad's signature dessert. The time-tested combo of milk and honey made absolute sense here, and I especially loved the crunchy, caramel-y honey brittle and airy shards of dehydrated milk foam, as well as the dish's salty pops. Excellent textural variation to boot.


Little Dragon [$18.00] | Cocoa Nib-Infused Cognac, Genever, Pineau Des Charentes, Aged Aquavit, Plum Vinegar
The penultimate cocktail featured aromas that were on the sour and savory side--very intriguing. Flavors were raisin-y at first blush, while more savory, puckering notes came in on the mid-palate before a booziness appeared on the back end.


Orange [$16.00] | Pudding Cake with Marinated Citrus & Macadamia Nuts
This next dessert tasted as creamy and citrusy and bright as it looked, and was slightly reminiscent of Thrifty Ice Cream's Rainbow sherbet.


Espresso [$16.00] | Granita with Vanilla Ice Cream & Cocoa Nibs
A good combination of sweet chocolate and bitter, roasty coffee, rendered in disparate textures.


Manhattan Milk Punch [$17.00] | Rye Whiskey, Jamaican Rum, Sweet Vermouth, Foro Amaro, Spiced Squash, Pineapple, Lemon, Clarified Milk
Our final cocktail was, appropriately, on the more dessert-y side. It smelled appealing to be sure, with lots of smooth, sweet spice--appropriate for the season. The taste followed, displaying an apple-like sensation along with more winter-y spices and bit of burn.





Baked Alaska for Two [$32.00] | Meyer Lemon, Strawberries, Vanilla & Rum
The baked Alaska was flambéed tableside, which was nice to see. It was also probably the best version of the dessert I've had, the lusciousness of the berries working especially well with the torched meringue, ice cream, and slight booziness present.

The NoMad's been in the works for years now, and it looks like the wait was worth it. The food was, for the most part, quite good, and I'm only expecting it to get better as time goes on. Perhaps even more exciting, though, was the cocktail program, which is probably already among the City's best--I see this being a go-to imbibing spot of mine. At the same time, service was among the more polished examples I've encountered as of late, and definitely had a "New York" sort of vibe and formality to it that I appreciated. A great addition to the Downtown dining (and drinking) scene to be sure.

Modern Times DTLA Dankness Dojo
832 S Olive St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.878.7008
www.moderntimesbeer.com/tasting-room/los-angeles
Sat 02/10/2018, 02:05p-04:20p





Downtown's beer game got another boost with the debut of The Dankness Dojo, the newest project from Jacob McKean's Modern Times Beer. The South Park restaurant-slash-café-slash-pilot brewhouse opened on January 22nd, and I made it a point to stop by on a recent Saturday afternoon.


The Dojo is located on the ground floor of the long-vacant Southpark Hotel, just up the street from Mikkeller Bar. The front of the well-decorated space holds the cafe...


...While the bar is in the back.


The pilot brewing system, used for R&D type brews.


Beer-wise, you get about 30 selections on draft (mostly Modern Times, but also a couple guest taps) as well as a few bottled options. Click for larger versions.


Above we see the café offerings, the menu of vegan food (McKean is vegan), and the wine list. Click for larger versions.


There's also a wide-ranging array of merch on offer. Click for larger versions.


Banh Mi [$13.00] | Grilled 5 Spice Seitan, Pickled Carrot & Daikon, Cucumber, Sweet Jalapeño Spread, Sambal & Scallion Mayo, Fresh Herbs on House Made French Bread
Modern Times' take on bánh mì didn't quite work out. The main issue was that the seitan was just far too salty, distractingly so in fact. The pickled veggies didn't do enough to balance things out, and I didn't get much from the advertised jalapeño or mayo, either.


Now for some beer. First up was a tart saison, the Elemental Magic with Mexican and Brazilian Guava [$9.00]. It's nose was great, giving up super juicy citrus and tropical aromas, while the taste was decidedly guava-forward, with just enough sourness--I could drink this all day. We also had the Oblivion Ring with NOLA Coffee [$7.00], a barley wine with coffee, chicory, almond, and vanilla. This one had a surprisingly weak bouquet, with some dark fruit but really not much of the adjuncts. The taste was more satisfying however, with a base of malt and coffee astringency underpinning light hops and the sweetness of almond and vanilla.


Double Burger [$15.00] | Seared Beyond Meat Double Patty, Smoked Mushrooms, Shallot Jam, Roasted Tomato Spread, American Coconut Cheese, Pickles, House-Made Sesame Bun, Pickled Onion Rings
The burger ended up as my favorite dish of the day. The well-seared patties were much "meatier" than I thought they'd be, and really did serve as a good substitute for beef, meshing with the coconut cheese in gratifying fashion while pickles, onions, and lettuce completed the experience. I was a fan of those onions rings, too, which were rather "fluffy" I'll say.


Next was a duo of nitrogenated beers. The Nitro Bourbon Barrel-Aged Devil's Teeth with NOLA Coffee [$8.00] was a bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout with coffee, vanilla, almond, and chicory. It showed off an appealing nose filled with soft, sweet spice, while the taste was smoky and sweet, with a silky mouthfeel and almond undertones. It was joined by the Nitro Bourbon Barrel-Aged Monster's Park with Coffee [$8.00], another BBA stout. Aromas of sweet malt and lots of roast, while the taste brought oak, dark fruit, malt, and plenty more coffee character.


Devils on Horseback [$11.00] | Smoked Seitan, Cashew Cheese Stuffed Dates, Grilled Pineapple, Bourbon Barrel-Aged Maple Syrup
Devils on horseback are a classic sweet-savory appetizer traditionally comprising dates wrapped in bacon. The version here missed the mark, as the various elements just didn't come together cohesively--very disjointed.


Time for our next round of beer. On the left was a funky witbier, the Galactic Filaments with Chamomile [$9.00]. It had a floral, lemon-y nose that was rather refreshing, while taste-wise, I got lots of the claimed chamomile, along with a sharp, astringent quality and a urinal cake-esque element. In the middle was the One Million Tomorrows with Nectarines and Marionberries [$6.00], a red wine barrel-aged saison. This one smelled of light, candied fruit with a smidge of tartness--lovely. The palate displayed a definitely earthiness, along with subdued sourness, a touch of spice, oak, and lots of berry goodness bringing up the rear. Last up was the Sante Adairius/Jackie O's Lingering Spirits [$5.50], a bourbon barrel-aged Flanders red ale. Its aromas were classic for the style, giving up a distinctly vinous-yet-tangy vibe. The taste, meanwhile, showed off lots of acidity, dark stewed fruit, spice, grain, and oak.


Som Tum [$13.00] | Green Papaya, Rainbow Carrot, Tomato, Herbs, Peanut Lime Vinaigrette, Rice Cracker, Crispy Yuba, Braised Seitan
The reworked som tam was another highlight thanks to its balance of funk and spice, and I was pleasantly surprised at how deep and developed the flavors were. Great textures, too.


The Stencil Crew [$5.00] was a hazy double IPA dry-hopped primarily with Citra, along with Simcoe and Amarillo. The beer had a really bright nose, one highlighting notes of pine and stone fruit. The taste followed, with more robust, subtly dank hops backed by citrus and a palpable malty sweetness. Our final beer was the Worldtree [$8.00], a blend of a funky rye grisette and tart saison with second-use peaches and nectarines added. Aromas here were definitely on the sour, refreshing, juicy side, and I found the taste tart and funky and yeasty, with the stone fruit coming in toward the finish.


Marrow of the Earth [$10.00] | Roasted Parsnip, Mushroom Puree, Grilled House Bread, Garlic Confit, Herb Vinaigrette, Spicy Greens
Our final savory dish also disappointed. It was obviously an ode to bone marrow, but really didn't taste like it. Instead, flavors were muddled and dull, though the vinaigrette did help lift things. The greens weren't particularly spicy either, and came out underdressed.


To pair with dessert, we ordered a Cold Brew Horchata Slushie + Devils' Teeth w/ Raspberry & Coffee Float [$5.00+$1.00]. I got some nice coffee notes here, along with some nutty and spicy elements, while the raspberry really came through on the back end. Tasty.


Strawberry Shortcake [$9.00] | Blueberry Biscuit, Strawberry Compote, Candied Lemon, Honeycomb Ice Cream
I thought that this was a successful rendition of the classic dessert, one that wasn't obviously vegan. I got a good back-and-forth between the fruit and the biscuit, and the ice cream on the side made perfect sense, too.

Beer-wise, I was pretty pleased with this newest Modern Times location. There's diverse, interesting stuff on tap, and I can envision the Dojo being a go-to place of mine in the area (along with Mikkeller Bar). The food, however, was more hit-or-miss. I think the kitchen may be trying to get too "fancy" with the cooking, so I'm hoping they'll streamline/revamp the menu in the coming months. You can do great things with vegan food (e.g. Erven, Gadarene Swine), so I'll look forward to seeing more of that here.

Inko Nito Restaurant
225 S Garey St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
310.999.0476
www.inkonitorestaurant.com
Tue 02/20/2018, 08:05p-10:30p





My latest visit to the Arts District brought me to Inko Nito, which opened back on December 20th. The place comes to us from Azumi Limited, Arjun Waney and Rainer Becker's restaurant management group responsible for the likes of Zuma, Roka, and other worldwide brands. They're most known for Zuma, a chain of scene-y izakayas, but for Downtown, the company has embraced a more casual approach for their "unconventional Japanese robatayaki" joint, led by Chef Hamish Brown.

About the Chef: Brown was born and raised in Christchurch, New Zealand, and was first introduced to the business by his father, who was a chef. He got his first real restaurant job while he was in high school, and quickly fell in love with the craft. Following graduation, he stayed at said restaurant for about half a year, then moved to Australia to surf, but returned home after only for months, having run out of money. In 1995, Brown enrolled in the culinary program at the Christchurch Polytechnic Institute of Technology, and during this period, apprenticed at the nearby George Hotel. He finished his studies in 1998, and ended up working at the George for five years, taking charge of the property's 50 on Park restaurant.

Afterward, he cooked in the US for three months (via connections that his father had), then moved to England in 2004. Brown spent some time in the northern part of the country at first, then relocated to London to work at a gastropub called The Hole in the Wall over in Chiswick. He then landed a job at The Providores in Marylebone, cooking under Chef Peter Gordon for 18 months. In 2006, Brown left the restaurant for a position at Roka, Azumi's contemporary robata concept, and in 2012, became Group Executive Chef for all Roka restaurants.

Meanwhile, running the day-to-day here is Head Chef Oliver Lorenz (Josie), while sous duties are handled by Tom Watson (Crêpes & Grapes Café in Whittier).


Inko Nito's located right across the street from Manuela, in a spot penned by Studio Mai (Wolfdown, The Cannibal, Hinoki & the Bird, Gjelina). The space is centered, as per tradition, around a large charcoal grill, while seating capacity is around 120 across standard tables, high tops, counter spots, and communal seats. There's also a pretty decently sized patio area out front.


Food-wise, you'll find a variety of robata selections joined by just as many small plates, making for a more diverse eating experience. To drink, there's a half dozen cocktails along with a smattering of beer, sake, and California wine. On the back of the menu is an illustrated glossary of terms. Click for larger versions.


Inko Spritz [$10.00] | watermelon, aperol, yuzu, sparkling wine
This take on the classic aperitif cocktail showcased sweet, somewhat "candied" flavors of watermelon (think Jolly Ranchers), tempered by the bitterness of Aperol on the finish.


The cali [$9.00] | dungeness crab, avocado, wasabi tobiko, yuzu mayo
We made sure to try a couple of the restaurant's "nigaki," basically a sushi-esque creation featured roasted seaweed. This ostensibly California-inspired version featured dollops of cool, creamy, sweet crab, accented by a smidge of heat and the umami-rich goodness of that nori.


Fried shrimp [$14.00] | spicy Korean miso, sesame seeds, lime
Shrimp were well-textured and snappy, with relatively delicate battering and a detectable brine. They were tasty little morsels, and I did appreciate the spice imparted by what I believe was gochujang.


Prime beef short rib [$20.00] | peanut chili oil, scallions
Short rib came out toothsome and tender, and was made even more enjoyable by the heat and crunch of the peanut-infused chili oil.


Pineapple Shoga [$10.00] | vodka, buckwheat shochu, ginger, lime, pineapple
This next cocktail was definitely heavy on the advertised shoga (ginger), making for a zippy, zesty, somewhat bitter drink with surprisingly little pineapple.


Dungeness crab tartare [$14.00] | wasabi mayo, chicken skin, roasted nori
The crab tartar worked out, matching the sweet, creamy brine of Dungeness with the heat of wasabi and salty crunch of chicken skin, the nori once again serving as a great finishing touch.


Beef cheek [$22.00] | spicy Korean miso, pickled daikon, butter lettuce
Beef cheek was robustly flavored, pull-apart tender, and quite enjoyable alone. The key here though, of course, was to wrap it up with the earthy, spicy ssamjang and crunchy pickles to make for one utterly gratifying bite.


The hottie [$9.00] | fried shrimp, spicy Korean miso, sesame
This was basically a "nigaki" version of our fried shrimp dish above. It probably was even better, as the rice and nori really worked to balance out the potency of the shrimp.


Palomita [$10.00] | sakura tequila, lime, pink grapefruit, agave
A take on the paloma made sense. Think grapefruit-y, but with a boozy bite and a moderating bitterness on the back end.


Brussel sprouts [$6.00] | sesame furikake, wasabi mayo
Brussels were heavy on the char and bitterness, but fortunately that zippy, creamy mayo was actually pretty effective as a counterpoint.


Corn on the cob [$8.00] | smoked chili butter, shichimi
A Japanese-y take on elote largely hit the mark, the sweet kernels meshing well with all the buttery, smoky flavors at play.


Nori Old Fashioned [$10.00] | Suntory Toki, kokuto, nori
Inko Nito's twist on the most classic of cocktails showed off a nose rife with dark fruit and brown sugar (the kokuto), with a boozy backing. Taste-wise, I got a lot of the Toki at first, joined by more stewed fruit, toffee, and nori on the finish if you're looking for it.


Tofu kara-age [$6.00] | miso mayo, nori
Fried cubes of tofu were perfectly textured: crispy, light, and almost fluffy on the inside. I thoroughly enjoyed the garlickiness of the dish, and the miso-enriched mayo worked as a condiment, too.


Cauliflower [$8.00] | garlic soy aioli, parmesan panko
Cauliflower, fortunately, wasn't overcooked, and still had a nice crunch to it. Flavors, meanwhile, were rich, savory, smoky, satisfying--yum.


Baby back pork ribs [$15.00] | chili, Japanese whisky glaze
Pork ribs were properly tender, and tore cleanly, though not too easily off the bone, while the glaze gave 'em a sweet 'n' spicy taste with a creeping touch of heat.


Plum Highball [$10.00] | Suntory Toki, plum, soda
The highball displayed plenty of the claimed plum initially, but this quickly transitioned to the scotch-y sensation of the Suntory, with the back end giving up a lingering bitterness.


Sweet potato in husk [$8.00] | chili nori butter, chives
This was a surprise standout for me, and probably one of the best preparations of sweet potato I've ever had. The crux here was that it wasn't overly sugary, but instead had more of a floral character, with contrasting spicy and savory notes for balance.


Panko fried chicken [$10.00] | chili garlic yogurt
Fried chicken arrived crispy, juicy, and tender, but also underseasoned. Fortunately, the yogurt on the side did help amp up the flavors.


Yellowtail collar [$22.00] | brown butter ponzu, lemon
Rare-cooked hamachi collar was aggressively briny, with some lovely accents of smoke and citrus.


Kyuri [$10.00] | shiso shochu, gin, sake
Kyuri is Japanese for "cucumber," and indeed the vegetable was highlighted here, set against the botanicals of the gin and pervasive notes of minty shiso.



Kimchi rice [$10.00] | Korean miso, scallions, sesame, egg yolk
Our final savory dish instantly reminded me of the yennal dosirak at Kang Hodong. Sadly, the version tonight wasn't nearly as effective. It lacked any sort of ferment-y depth or funk, and instead showed off a prickly heat, but with nothing behind it. There was also an omnipresent bitterness that we weren't keen on, either. In addition to wanting more kimchi character, we also thought that some gim or furikake sprinkled on top would've been nice, and perhaps a fried egg should've been used instead.


Charred coconut soft serve [$7.00] | soy, pocky, Japanese granola
There's but one dessert at Inko Nito, so naturally we had to give it a shot. It did not disappoint. The soft serve itself was commendable, but what made this special was the umami element from the soy, which I found surprisingly effective. I also liked the crunchiness and nuttiness of the dessert, as well as the bitterness from the green tea Pocky.

I actually enjoyed this place more than I was expecting to. It's a fun concept, and the food was by and large quite good, drawing upon Japanese and Korean traditions in a sort of not-too-serious manner, but one that works. I think this is a welcomed add to the Arts District, and interestingly enough, apparently Azumi's actually importing Inko Nito back to London, and opening up an outpost in the Soho district sometime this year.

Matsumoto Restaurant
8385 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.653.0470
www.matsumoto-restaurant.com
Sat 02/24/2018, 06:00p-10:00p





It'd been a while since I'd done a kaiseki-style meal, and I was recently made aware of such a menu at Matsumoto, which came highly recommended by an acquaintance of mine. The place is basically an evolution of the old Hirozen in Beverly Grove, now run by its former head chef Naruki Matsumoto.

Matsumoto was born in Osaka, and relocated to the US in 1999. He soon secured a position at the Valley's iconic Sushi Nozawa, working under none other than Kazunori Nozawa himself. In 2001, he began cooking at Hirozen Gourmet, a longstanding Japanese eatery that was opened in 1989 by Chef Hiroji Obayashi. He was quickly promoted to head sushi chef, and stayed at that position for 15 years before purchasing the restaurant from Tuk Son Kwak (who'd apparently bought the place in 2010) and re-opening it as Matsumoto in June 2016.


Matsumoto takes over Hirozen's old corner location inside the unassuming Orlando Center strip mall. The decor hasn't changed all that much.


The staff printed out our sushi kaiseki omakase menus ahead of our arrival, which was a nice touch. It normally starts at $160pp, though we'd requested a price point of $250. In hindsight, we probably should've just stuck with the $160, since it didn't seem like the restaurant was quite comfortable with the higher cost. We were also presented with a brief list of sakes and wines, while corkage was $25 a pop. Click for larger versions.


One of my dining companions had brought along three bottles of sparkling wine, which we drank over the course of the meal. Up first was the 2010 En Tirage Blanc de Blancs, composed of 100% Chardonnay from Carneros. On the nose I got a strong toastiness, along with nutty, funky elements and a fruity layer underneath it all. Taste-wise, I found it again bready, nutty, with an oxidative quality, light citrus, and plenty of acidity to boot.



1: {Appetizer/Zensai}
Our first course consisted of a sextet of zensai:

• Mekyabetsu Nametake | Boiled Brussel Sprouts topped w/ Nametake (Enoki mushroom) - Brussels had a satisfying crunch and bite, along with a restrained bitterness and a particularly apparent sweetness. Tasty alone, but even better with a dab of that umami-rich nametake.
• Ginnan | Lightly fried Ginko Nuts - The ginkgo nuts were perhaps the best I've had, with a wonderfully light texture and perfect pops of salt.
• Namako-su | Lightly boiled Sea Cucumber in Sweet Vinegar - Texturally these were firm, almost crunchy, yet yielding at the same time. Flavors veered sweet and tangy, with a definite brine in the background.
• Hotaru Ika Sumiso | Boiled Firefly Squid (seasonal) w/ Miso Vinegar - Firefly squid was well accented by a sweet, savory miso sauce while sheets of seaweed worked as a natural accompaniment.
• Hotate Ceviche | Fresh diced Scallop mixed w/ House special Salsa - Scallops were meaty and fresh, their ocean-y taste working superbly with the acidity and tingling heat from the "pico de gallo."
• Kumiage Yuba | Fresh Yuba (Tofu Skin) from Kyoto, Japan - Bean curd skin was refreshing and mild, with a slight nuttiness, while its silky consistency was almost burrata-like.

2: {Soup/Suimono} Awabi no Mizore Jiru | Steamed Abalone w/ Daikon Radish & Carrots in Clear Soup
Slivers of abalone arrived delightfully tender, their mild brine heightened by strands of seaweed and the dish's mild broth. An appropriate cold weather soup.


3: {Sashimi/Otsukuri} Mirugai, Aoyagi, Tairagai, Sumi Ika, Hotate | Jumbo Clam, Orange Clam, Pen Shell Scallop, Squid w/ Bottarga, Fresh Scallop
Our sashimi moriawase, curiously enough, was comprised solely of shellfish:

• Aoyagi - Soft and spongy, with a mild relish that really called for a dab of wasabi.
• Mirugai - Geoduck came out firm and slightly crunchy, with a definite sweetness to it that opened up with a brush of soy.
• Sumi Ika - This one showed off a persistent dankness due to the application of bottarga.
• Hotate - Beautifully textured and oh-so sweet.
• Tairagai - The pen-shell clam had a crisper consistency and a milder flavor that worked well with the 'sabi.

4: {Grilled/Yakimono} Tachi Uo Shiokoji Yaki | Grilled Beltfish w/ Special Shiokoji Seasoning
A meaty cut of beltfish was excellent, with a balance of brine, char, and sweetness from the shio koji. The preparation actually recalled the ubiquitous dish of saikyo-yaki cod, and I appreciated the counterpoint provided by the tangy, salty hajikami (pickled ginger shoot). The candied kumquat was unexpected, though, and I'm not quite sure it needed to be there.


We also had some sake from Matsumoto's list, starting with the Yamatoshizuku [$80], a junmai daiginjo-class brew from producer Akita Seishu. This one smelled sweet and ricey, with a good amount of floral, fruity character. On the palate I found it soft and smooth, with a vibrant, off-dry quality and slight tinge of heat. Quite nice overall.


5: {Side Dish/Kawari-Zara} Uni Zanmai | ~Three kinds of Sea Urchin
Here was a fun tasting of three varieties of uni, all from Hokkaido from what I understood:

• Ensui Uni - Preserved in sea water without any additives. The most savory of the bunch, with a cool brine and fantastically creamy consistency.
• Shiro Uni - A type of murasaki uni. Slightly more austere I'd say, with a more apparent bitterness.
• Bafun Uni - The sweetest, softest of the threesome for sure.

6: {Fried/Agemono} Shirako, Shira Uo, and Wakasagi Tempura | Deep fried Cod Milt w/ Green Tea Sea Salt, Deep Fried Icefish and Smelt Fish w/ Sansho pepper & Sea Salt
Three types of tempura were presented, garnished with a shishito pepper:

• Shirako - Crispy, but wonderfully creamy on the inside, almost like an egg prepared over hard. Excellent contribution from the green tea salt as well. My favorite of the trio.
• Wakasagi - Well-textured and surprisingly restrained. Great with a dip into the provided salt.
• Shira Uo - Mildly flavored, with a delightful blast of umami from the nori wrapper. Again, great with the salt.

7: {Side Dish/Naka-Zara} Sautéed Awabi | Sautéed Abalone & Mushrooms w/ Special Liver Soy in Shell
Chewy cuts of abalone were enhanced by the savoriness of shiitakes and soy while the greenery on the side offered up a zesty counterweight.


8: {Grilled/Yakimono} Kani Miso Koura Yaki | Hair Crab Miso mixed w/ crab meat, egg & scallions topped w/ Sea Urchin & Melted Cheese in Shell
I was looking forward to the kanimiso kourayaki, given that a version I had at Urasawa was probably the best crab dish I'd ever tasted. Matsumoto's interpretation didn't reach such lofty heights however. Rather, it blended the sweetness of crab with some salty, almost buttery elements, making it a bit clunkier than I would've liked, though the Hokkaido uni on top did offer up a contrast.


9: {Steamed/Mushimono} Kasukodai no Chiri Mushi | Steamed Baby Snapper & Veges served w/ Ponzu & Green Onions
Young snapper had an satisfyingly meaty consistency, along with a refined brine that really linked up well with the ponzu. I also appreciated the zestiness of the onions here, and the veggies made sense, too.


Next to imbibe was the 2010 En Tirage Blanc de Noirs, a 100% Pinot Noir sparkler that's the sister wine to the BdB above. The nose here was very different, coming across to me as musty and tannic, with far less toast and more red fruit. The palate was definitely more feminine, rounder, softer, with less bite and more lusciousness.


10a: {Sushi/Shokuji} Shiro Ebi, Kegani | Glass Shrimp, Hair Crab
Here came our parade of nigirizushi. I will say that I would've preferred that each piece come out by itself, but that's a relatively minor nit. In any case, Hokkaido hairy crab was wonderfully sweet and briny, and conveyed additional depth courtesy of a rich sauce comprised of what I believe was the crustacean's innards. White shrimp were particularly sweet this evening, and took well to complementary flavors of wasabi and soy, and I especially appreciated the textural variation of the rice.


10b: {Sushi/Shokuji} Hon Maguro, Buri | Blue Fin Tuna, Wild Adult Yellowtail
Tuna from Spain was lean and clean tasting, and gave up a lingering prick of wasabi heat on the finish. Wild yellowtail, meanwhile, was less fatty, "crunchier" that what you typically find, and matched swimmingly with a brush of soy sauce. And again, good counterpoint from the rice.


10c: {Sushi/Shokuji} Kinme, Nodoguro | Golden Eye Snapper, Black Throat Perch
Kinmedai was certainly a highlight, its sear and savor working beautifully with the fish's inherent salinity. At the same time, lightly torched akamutsu from Japan was also a joy to eat, and definitely had a softer bite to it.


10d: {Sushi/Shokuji} Toro | Supreme Toro
Chef Matsumoto informed us that this was actually kamatoro, a relatively hard-to-find cut that comes from the jaw of the tuna. As expected, this was almost ridiculously fatty, with a melt-in-your-mouth luxuriousness that was really evened out by the soy and rice.


Our second sake was the Tatenokawa 33 [$76], a junmai daiginjo from Yamagata's Tatenokawa Shuzo. Compared to the Yamatoshizuku above, this one had a decidedly less assertive bouquet, but I still got a good amount of ripe melon and sweet rice. On the palate, this was definitely on the smooth, easy-drinking side, though not as expressive with its round, soft character and smidge of heat on the back end.


At this point, we decided to add on a number of items from Matsumoto's extensive à la carte menu, which features a good number of more uncommon nigiri. Click for larger versions.


Tasmanian Sea Trout [$4.50] | w/ Ponzu & Green Onions
Loup De Mer [$4.50] | French Sea Bass w/ Citrus, Sea Salt, Yuzu
Masu was leaner than your usual salmon, and had its clean, straightforward taste nicely accented by green onion. The European bass ate firm, and had a relatively mild flavor that was kicked up a notch by the salty-sour blast of yuzukosho.


Shima Aji [$5.00] | Striped Jack
Kohada [$4.50] | Japanese Gizzard Shad
Striped jack made sense with its brushing of soy, and had a satisfying snap to it that contrasted well with its base of shari. The soft cut of gizzard shad, on the other hand, had an aggressive, yet never overbearing brininess to it. Note also the braiding effect going on.


Iwashi [$5.00] | Fresh Sardine
Ama Ebi [$8.50] | Sweet Shrimp from Hokkaido w/ Shrimp Roe
The sardine was on the fishier end of the spectrum, just as you'd expect, but the ginger and rice worked to even things out. Hokkaido sweet shrimp showed off a fantastic brine, and I really appreciated the added complexity from the roe sauce on top. We were also served the lightly-fried heads later on, which were damn tasty.


Sumi Ika [$5.50] | Fresh Squid w/ Shiso Leaf, Citrus & Sea Salt
Sayori [$6.00] | Japanese Halfbeak w/ Ponzu & Green Onions
Cuttlefish was both firm and supple, and had its mild flavors underlined by minty shiso and pops of sea salt. More robust was the needlefish, which displayed a considerable brine as well as citric and wasabi accents.


Our final tipple was the 1990 En Tirage Extra Brut, a recently disgorged, 100% Pinot Meunier sparkling wine from the Russian River Valley. Intense, mature nose filled with caramel and toffee, along with an oxidative edge. The palate displayed more aged, oxidative qualities, as well as a distinct breadiness, some fruit, and a honeyed sweetness.


Ni Anago [$6.00] | Boiled Sea Eel w/ Eel sauce
A lean cut of Japanese sea eel meshed in classic fashion with its sweet-ish sauce, while a touch of wasabi on the back end served as an accentuating element.


Kan Sawara [$5.50] | Seared King Mackerel w/ Miso vinegar
Kisu Kobujime [$5.50] | Sillago marinated w/ Kelp
A special type of "cold" Spanish mackerel arrived fatty and assertive, with the miso vinegar providing a sweet-savory exclamation point. Kelp-cured shirogisu had a strong sensation of wasabi at first, but that quickly faded, and the kombu really made itself known.


Shira Uo [$5.50] | Fresh Icefish w/ Miso vinegar
We ended with an uncommon neta that I don't think I'd ever had Stateside. A number of these tiny icefish were bundled into one bite. Texturally I'd say they were on the slimier side, and taste-wise they were definitely ocean-y, but well-tempered by the almost fruity sweetness of that miso sauce.


11: {Dessert/Mizugashi} Purple Yam Yokan w/ Coconut Tapioca & Fruits
Dessert was lovely. I got a great back-and-forth between the yokan and tart citrus, while the mild sweetness of the coconut helped bring it all together. Nice and refreshing, especially after all the seafood we just had.

Matsumoto looks to be another strong addition to LA's spectrum of Japanese restaurants. I really appreciated the depth and breadth of the cooking, and you can definitely find things here that you won't encounter at most other establishments. I think it compares quite well with a place like Shunji, and if you come, I'd go for the standard sushi kaiseki omakase, with perhaps a couple supplements.

Hinoki and the Bird Restaurant
10 W Century Dr, Century City, CA 90067
310.552.1200
www.hinokiandthebird.com
Sat 03/03/2018, 08:00p-11:10p



Hinoki & the Bird debuted with considerable anticipation back in January 2013. The restaurant was supposed to be a return to the fine dining scene for David Myers, and he installed his protégé (and purported girlfriend) Kuniko Yagi as Executive Chef. I visited shortly after the opening, and was pretty happy with the place. However, things quickly fell apart. In June 2014, Myers left his eponymous David Myers Group (formed in '09 with Walter Schild after the collapse of his previous company FoodArt), which was subsequently renamed Culinary Lab. Unsurprisingly, Yagi was out by that December, and the team began a search for a new Exec Chef, finally deciding on Brandon Kida in June 2015.

About the Chef: Kida grew up in Koreatown, the son of a fourth-generation Japanese-American mother and a first generation Japanese-American father (from Tokyo). As a child, he got interested in food after watching his parents cook: his dad prepared more traditional Japanese cuisine, while mom incorporated a lot more multicultural influence. In his teenage years, he worked at a pizza joint and at a Farmers Market food stall, then decided to enroll at the Culinary Institute of America (Hyde Park). After graduating in 2001, Kida moved back to LA, finding employment at famed French eatery L'Orangerie under none other than Ludovic Lefebvre.

He then relocated to New York and began cooking at Lutèce, one of the grand dames of French cuisine in the City, where he started out as fish cook and eventually became sous. He also performed a number of stages at other top restaurants during this period. In 2003, Kida took on the role of an opening chef de partie at Asiate, working under Noriyuki Sugie. He was subsequently promoted to sous in 2005, and in 2009, became CdC. The Chef left Asiate in 2012 to head up the culinary side of Blenheim Hill Farm in upstate New York (and its associated restaurant in the West Village). Following, Kida opened Clement at The Peninsula Hotel in October 2013, a role he stayed at until leaving in 2015 for Hinoki & the Bird.


Located on the ground floor of The Century condo tower, Hinoki's indoor-outdoor space is just how I remember it.


As far as the menu goes, it's been condensed and focused and simplified, though it still does retain its Asian-inflected, Cal-modern vibe. The cocktail list has been similarly abbreviated (note: Brandyn Tepper and Sam Ross are no longer involved), the wine list too, while corkage is $25 a pop. Click for larger versions.


miyagi mule [$14.00] | lemongrass & ginger steeped vodka, cucumber wasabi boba
We ended up making our way through most of the cocktail list. This mule variation certainly wasn't shy about the ginger, making it a bright, bracing drink with a boozy finish and subdued nuances of cucumber. I didn't get too much heat from the wasabi, though there was a distinct savory element.


uni baguette [$16.00] | housemade ricotta, local honey
The baguette made for the most intriguing dish of the night. The sweetness of the urchin meshed surprisingly well with the honey and charred bread, while the richness of ricotta really brought it all together. I also liked the lingering smokiness present, as well as a tinge of what tasted like horseradish.


salmon tataki [$14.00] | perilla, brown butter soy
Salmon arrived fatty and flavorful, with a great depth from the brown butter-infused soy. The herbs up topped worked as a contrast, and be sure to wrap up your last piece of fish in the kkaennip, ssam style.


century [$14.00] | duck fat washed bourbon, bitters, carpano antica
As expected, this was the headiest cocktail of the bunch. It had an appealing nose blending dark fruit, citrus, and alcoholic heat. The drink was thick on the palate, with a boozy spice at first that led to a decidedly bitter finish with only a trace of the advertised duck fat.


wild boar ribs [$18.00] | szechuan peppercorn, kaffir lime
Boar ribs were superb, coming out crispy-skinned, with a delightfully "Chinese-y" sort of flavor profile. Even better when taken with the herbs and chili sauce on the side.


dungeness crab dumplings [$17.00] | black pepper sauce
The dumplings did an admirable job showcasing the sweet brine of the Dungeness, and played especially well with the herbs. Nice depth in that black pepper sauce, too.


son of a bee sting [$14.00] | gin, ginger, lemon, rose water
Our next cocktail balanced a sort of honeyed sweetness with contrasting notes of ginger and lemon, though I didn't detect much from the rose water.


tsukune sausage [$14.00] | shiso, egg yolk
Sausages displayed a gritty, meatball-like texture and really did recall your classic tsukune, perhaps with a bit of chorizo inspiration in there. Flavors were rich, smoky, even a bit "liver-y," and I appreciated the cool counterpoint provided by the yogurt.


crispy marinated chicken [$16.00] | yuzu kosho
Fried chicken came out juicy and crisp, a super flavorful preparation that really sang with that yuzukosho-infused dipping sauce.


s.o.s [$14.00] | scotch, strawberry, orgeat, black pepper
Our sole long drink combined the fruitiness of strawberry and orgeat, and effectively balanced that against the zing of black pepper.


hinoki scented black cod [$32.00] | dashi
The signature cod was as rich and buttery and flaky as I remembered. The dashi and mushrooms contributed plenty of umami to the dish, and the herbs on top just made sense.


xo fried rice [$16.00] | pickled eggplant
The fried rice also delivered. I was a fan of the dish's robust, peppery sauce and fried onions, as well as the creeping heat I detected. Perhaps my favorite things, though, were the bean sprouts and pickled eggplant, which imparted both texture and lightness to the mix.


hinoki negroni [$14.00] | islay gin, salers, bianco vermouth, grapefruit twist
The restaurant's take on the negroni featured clean, refreshing flavors of citrus and botanicals at the forefront, with subtle undertones of gentian.


Desserts follow the same theme as the rest of the menu. Click for a larger version.


honey mochi [$4.00] | honeycomb, bee pollen
The mochi was heavy on the honey, which wasn't a bad thing, and I quite liked the crunchy bits on the bottom.


matcha affogato [$10.00] | vanilla and green tea ice creams, black sesame shortbread, matcha pourover
Our next dessert effectively conveyed the bitterness of green tea, set against a number of sweet, floral elements. Some excellent textures here to boot.


unfernetable #2 [$14.00] | vodka, branca menta, espresso, vanilla bean, orange
The evening's final cocktail was on the dessert-y side to be sure. Nose of sweet chocolate and coffee, while the taste was mint-forward at first, but also roasty and smoky, with a persistent sweetness from the vanilla.


ice cream [$4.00] | burnt tahitian vanilla bean
Last up were two scoops of not-too-sweet vanilla ice cream.

We were quite happy with our meal at Hinoki, and Kida looks to be doing a fine job leading the kitchen. The cooking's just as good, if not better than before, and blends Asian and Cal cuisine influences in a way that's fusion without being too "fusion-y." I'm glad I finally made it back here.

Apothéke Bar
1746 N Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
323.844.0717
www.apothekela.com
Fri 03/09/2018, 08:05p-09:15p





We were finally able to get a reservation to Majordomo, but it was a late one, 9:15, so we made it a point to stop by the new apothecary-inspired cocktail bar Apotheke for some pre-dinner drinks. The original Apotheke debuted in September 2008 in New York, and is the work of siblings Heather and Christopher Tierney. This LA outpost, meanwhile, opened on January 11th in a former warehouse in an out-of-the-way location in the north-eastern part of Chinatown, a stone's throw from the Los Angeles River.


Aesthetically, the space is very similar to that of the first Apotheke; note the intentional lack of seating at the bar. We arrived right at opening, so we were easily able to snag a corner table. Otherwise, you'll probably want to try for a reservation.


New for LA is an outdoor area with its own bar and patio seating.


The cocktail menu is called a "prescription list," keeping with the place's theme. Curiously, no prices are listed, but I will tell you that all the drinks are priced at $16 (the new normal for LA it seems). No food is served. Click for a larger version.


Nuvem de Terra [$16.00] | Bourbon, Zaya, Blackberry-Acai Puree, Lime, Ginger, Laphroaig Mist
We began with this colorful cocktail. Unsurprisingly, I found it fruit-forward at first, but with astringent, vegetal notes creeping in later. The drink also displayed a cool, herbaceous quality that I enjoyed.


High Plains Drifter [$16.00] | Barley and Sarsaparilla Infused Rye, Ango bitters, Saffron Agave, Absinthe Rinse
This cocktail had an unexpectedly muted scent, with light vanilla and heat. The taste, though, was much more assertive, with an overall savoriness joined by boozy rye spice, medicinal and grassy nuances, not to mention a sort of nutty character.


Land War in Asia [$16.00] | Vodka, Matcha, Gun Powder Tea, Pandan Leaf Extract, Aquafaba, Lime, Rosemary
Rosemary was all up in your nose with this next cocktail. However, the drink had a sweet, tangy, fruity palate that belied the sheer herbaceousness of the aroma, as well as a subtle touch of tea astringency on the close.


Miracle of Mazunte [$16.00] | Basil Infused Mezcal, Beet Mamey Puree, Lime, Habanero Bitters, Topped with Club Soda
The bouquet on this one was dominated by basil and sweet mamey. Taste-wise, think smoky and fruity, with a hint of heat from the habaneros and a refreshingly fizzy mouth feel.


Catcher in the Rye [$16.00] | Rye Whiskey, Amaro Nonino, Honey Cordial, House Chamomile Bitters, Peated Scotch Mist
Here we had perhaps the booziest cocktail of the night. It smelled heavily of rye spice, along with citrus and herb. The palate was definitely spirit-centric, but also displayed a lovely toffee element as well as more spice and a smidge of chamomile. I will say that I didn't detect much from the advertised scotch though.


Apple a Day [$16.00] | Zubrowka, Grannysmith Apple, Arugula Juice, Lime, Topped with Tonic Water
This was a fun one. Think juicy apple mixed with the zippiness of arugula, with nary a hint of booze. Goes down easy.


Hollywood Antoinette [$16.00] | Pisco, Strawberry, Cactus Pear, Egg White, Lime, Angostura Bitters
Up next was another easy-drinker. I definitely got the sweetness of the strawberry and tuna, but fortunately this was countered by the frothiness of egg white as well as a persistent-but-restrained savoriness.


Good for the Gander [$16.00] | Thyme Infused Rum, Cantaloupe/Banana Puree, Lime, Muddled Cape Gooseberry
We ended with a table favorite. It did a nice job conveying the character of the fruit, and I especially appreciated the tartness from the gooseberry. The thyme-enriched rum served as a counterbalance to it all, and really, this is something I could drink all day.

Apotheke's a worthy add to the City's imbibing scene set in an unlikely location. I appreciated the breadth of the cocktails, and the strong emphasis on herbs, botanicals, and fruit made for a drinking experience that was more interesting than many. I also liked the chill vibe of the place, though that was probably due to the fact that we arrived early. Overall a good spot, and I imagine that this'll go on my regular rotation of cocktail bars.

Majordomo Restaurant
1725 Naud St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
323.545.4880
www.majordomo.la
Sat 03/09/2018, 09:20p-01:00a





The restaurant formerly known as North Spring was officially announced back in July last year, and ever since then, we Angelenos have been champing at the bit, waiting for the David Chang spot to drop. The Chinatown-but-not-really eatery finally opened on January 23rd, and I think it's safe to say that it's the most hyped debut of 2018. In fact, I'd say that Majordomo has supplanted Bestia as the toughest reservation in town--no easy feat. According to Chang, he'd been wanting to open a restaurant in LA for years now, and the timing of the pan-Asian-inspired place is certainly fortuitous, coinciding with the Chef's work as a Winter Olympics reporter for NBC, the premiere of his Netflix series Ugly Delicious, and perhaps most importantly, the launch of his multimedia entertainment company Majordomo Media (in partnership with Christopher Chen and Scott Dadich).

About the Chef: Chang was born in 1977 in Northern Virginia, the youngest son (he has a sister and two brothers) of a mother from South Korea and a father from North Korea, both of whom had immigrated to the US in the 1960s. His dad started out at the bottom in the food service biz in New York, and eventually owned two delis in NOVA, but had sold them and started a golfing supply business by late 70s. Chang excelled in golf and also dabbled in football as a youngster; he actually didn't have a super strong interest in food, though his mom and grandmother were both good cooks, and he developed a taste for Japanese cuisine from his grandfather (Japanese occupation and all...). He went to high school at Georgetown Preparatory in North Bethesda, Maryland (not exactly a model student), and then made his way to Trinity College in Hartford, Connecticut, where he studied religion for four years. During his time at Trinity, he spent a semester abroad in London, and had a life-changing meal at Alan Yau's Wagamama (a Japanese noodle joint) that really made him consider cooking professionally.

Following graduation, Chang taught English in Wakayama, Japan, and ate his fair share of ramen in the process. Upon returning Stateside, he moved to New York, worked as a busser, dabbled in finance, and, in 2000, finally enrolled at the French Culinary Institute. He didn't particularly enjoy the educational aspect of FCI, but while attending, he cooked at Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Mercer Kitchen and got his foot in the door at Tom Colicchio's Craft after agreeing to answer phones for month. This led to Chang doing free prep work in the morning, and eventually a paid cook position under CdC Marco Canora. After finishing culinary school (he was only there for six months), he stayed at Craft for two years, but wound up returning to Japan again. A family friend, Reverend Paul Hwang, ran a hostel-slash-homeless shelter in Tokyo, and allowed him to live there while working at a ramen shop on the ground floor. Unfortunately, the ramen chef was of questionable sanity, and Chang lasted only a few days there before switching over to the building's izakaya, where he worked for a few weeks.

Soon after, another family friend hooked him up with an apprenticeship at Fuyu-Rin, a soba shop run by one Akio Hosaga. Even though he was more into ramen than soba, he studied diligently, but was dismissed four months in after Hosaga discovered that what he really wanted was to open a ramen-ya. Through some connections from Craft, Chang then went on to cook at the Tokyo Park Hyatt, first at its steakhouse New York Grill (where he saw sous vide cooking for the first time) and then at its Japanese spot Kozue. After eight months in Tokyo, he moved back to the US, turned down a chance to work at Sushi Yasuda, tried to get a job at Chipotle (he was already formulating his "Asian burrito" concept), and in the end landed at Café Boulud, under Andrew Carmellini. He worked as a line cook there for under a year, and was forced to return to Virginia due to his mom's cancer diagnosis and drama over the fate of the family business. Things eventually got better though, and Chang's father later lent him just under $200,000 to start his first restaurant.

He ended up taking over a tiny chicken wing spot in the East Village, and recruited Joaquin Baca to run the place with him. Momofuku Noodle Bar thus opened in August 2004, named after both the Japanese term for "lucky peach" and Momofuku Ando, the inventor of instant ramen. Business was slow at first, but picked drastically as the duo started expanding the menu and cooking more interesting food. In 2006, Chang garnered a "Rising Star Chef of the Year" nomination from James Beard for his work, and was also named one of "America's Best New Chefs" by Food & Wine. In August that year, his sophomore effort Momofuku Ssam Bar dropped, also in the East Village. The place was originally an Asian-y "burrito bar," but the idea never caught on, and the Chef wound up turning it into a more serious small plates restaurant. Sales improved dramatically, and Chang subsequently won Beard's "Rising Star Chef of the Year" award in 2007, along with "Chef of the Year" from both Bon Appetit and GQ. 2007 also saw the shutter of the original Noodle Bar, which moved to larger digs just a few doors down.

The space was transformed into Momofuku Ko, a 12-seat tasting menu spot that opened in March 2008. Ko is easily the Chef's highest-end location, and was quickly awarded two Michelin stars (which it has continuously retained) as well as a "Best New Restaurant" win from Beard. In 2008, Beard also deemed Chang "Best Chef: New York City," and we saw the debut of Momofuku Milk Bar that November. The casual dessert destination sat next door to Ssam Bar, and was run in partnership with Pastry Chef Christina Tosi. Milk Bar has since expanded to nine location just in NYC: East Village (2008), Midtown at the Chambers Hotel (2009), Williamsburg (2011), Upper West Side (2011), Carroll Gardens (2012), Chelsea (2016), Nolita (2016), West Village (2017), and Financial District (2017); note that the original closed in 2011, and a SoHo outpost shuttered in June 2015. There are also Milk Bars in Toronto (2013), Las Vegas at the Cosmopolitan (2016), and two in Washington DC (2015 at CityCenterDC and 2018 at the Wharf).

In October 2009, Clarkson Potter published the Momofuku cookbook, written by Chang and Peter Meehan. The Chef debuted Má Pêche in May 2010, situated in the Chambers Hotel in Midtown (a temporary operation was set up in the property's mezzanine the previous year). The food leaned French-Vietnamese, the work of Chef/Partner Tien Ho, though the cooking changed to modern American when Paul Carmichael took over in '11. Heather Machovec became Exec Chef in 2015 after Carmichael moved to another position within the company, though keep in mind that the restaurant is slated to close this June. Chang dropped the first issue of Lucky Peach in summer 2011, and the food magazine ran until May 2017. October 2011 witnessed the debut of Chang's first outpost outside the US, with Momofuku Seiobo opening at the Star City Casino in Pyrmont, a suburb of Sydney. In January 2012, Booker & Dax bowed in the original Milk Bar space next to Ssam Bar; the progressive cocktail bar was run by Dave Arnold, but ended up closing in October 2016.

In September 2012, a quartet of restaurants landed in Toronto, all set in a glassy three-level edifice: Momofuku Noodle Bar, bar-lounge Momofuku Nikai, the fancier Momofuku Daisho, and Momofuku Shoto, a dining counter inside Daisho. However, the latter two closed this February, and are being reworked into a new Momofuku-branded eatery. Milk Bar Toronto opened in 2013, also in the same building. Chang's next move was to PBS' series The Mind of a Chef, which he hosted for its first season, starting in November 2012. Beard's "Outstanding Chef" award came in 2013, and in 2014, Momofuku Ko moved to a new, larger location further south, but still in the East Village. In June 2015, Chang launched Fuku, a chain of fast casual fried chicken restaurants, and the first one was placed in the original home of Noodle Bar/Ko. Further locations have since opened in Financial District, Battery Park City, Madison Square Garden, Citi Field, and Hard Rock Stadium in Miami Gardens, FL. There's also a Fuku+ in Midtown's Chambers Hotel with an expanded menu, but that's slated to shutter along with Má Pêche.

We saw the premiere of Momofuku CCDC and Milk Bar inside Washington's CityCenterDC mixed-use development in October 2015. January 2016 had the introduction of Momofuku Nishi, an Italian-Korean hybrid that was poorly received. It closed for renovations in fall 2017, and has since reopened as a more focused Italian eatery. Chang launched Ando in May 2016 (named, once again, after Momofuku Ando), a delivery-only concept that eventually spawned a brick-and-mortar location in September 2017, but both efforts were shut down this January. Lastly, the massive Momofuku Las Vegas (situated inside The Cosmopolitan) dropped at the start of 2017, replete with a $7 million construction budget and Michael Chen installed as Executive Chef (though he only last two months). With Vegas done, Majordomo was next, so here we are.

Given the size of his business (annual revenues are in the tens of millions), Chang's obviously not going to be around all the time, so steering the ship at Majordomo day-to-day is Executive Chef Jude Parra-Sickels, an LA native born in 1979. After studying at the University of Wisconsin, he attended the French Culinary Institute in New York (Chang's alma mater). Following, the Chef worked as a line cook at Momofuku Ssam Bar, and later served as sous at Momofuku Noodle Bar. In 2010, Parra-Sickels moved back to the Southland and began working with Roy Choi, first at A-Frame, then at Sunny Spot, and eventually at Pot, where he was Exec Chef. Most recently, he opened The Cannibal in Culver City in May 2016 (the place shuttered at the end of January this year).

The front-of-the-house, meanwhile, is run by General Manager Christine Larroucau. She first made a name for herself over at Osteria Mozza, where she worked as a manager for a year starting in October 2012. In June 2014, she moved to Pedalers Fork in Calabasas, serving as the restaurant's AGM and wine buyer. She left the following August and returned to the Mozza family, this time becoming GM at the Pizzeria, a position she stayed at until August last year, when she decamped to start at Majordomo.



Majordomo sports a large-ish dining area, flanked on one side by the bar/kitchen, while the other opens out to the patio seating area outside. There's certainly a nod to the restaurant's previous life as an industrial space, but overall it's a warm, lively environment. Total capacity is around 180 apparently.


Majordomo's menu features dishes running the gamut in size, style, format, and inspiration. Fortunately, it looks like Chang and company have designed it specifically for us Angelenos, and it doesn't read as merely a listing of Momofuku's greatest hits. The gua bao won't be missed, at least by this diner. Click for a larger version.




Drink-wise, Majordomo sports a dozen or so cocktails, a better-than-expected wine list with some compelling selections, a small array of beer, and sake/shochu/etcetera to round things out. Corkage is $30 a pop for the first two bottles ($50 after that), though we were charged only once. Click for larger versions.


Pacific 75 [$13.00] | yuzu sake, gin, honey, sparkling wine
We ended up going through about half the cocktail list, starting with this lightweight, French 75-inspired concoction that blended tart yuzu and sweet honey with the botanicals of gin and a noticeable bitterness on the back end.


Fried Butterball Potatoes [$10.00] | salsa seca, peanuts
I wanted more actual potato in this potato dish, but I will say that it was damn tasty overall. What little potato there was paired beautifully with the heat present, and I thoroughly enjoyed the contrast provided by the puffed rice and pepitas. Some marvelous textures, too.


Coppa, Benton's Reserve Ham, Pork Shoulder Bing [$25.00]
Next was plancha-grilled Chinese-style flatbread (delicious just by itself), served with three preparations of pig. On the left we had coppa, which I found wonderfully porky, with a great smokiness and brightness from the fennel and chives. In the middle was Benton's ham, aged 24-28 months specifically for the restaurant--think fatty, nutty, and slick, with a great depth. Last up was pork shoulder cured in katsuobushi. Unfortunately I didn't get to try this one, as my dining companions ate it all.


Scorched Earth [$13.00] | mescal, cynar, vermouth rosso
The first of two mezcal-centric cocktails showed off a nose brimming with toffee and light fruit. The taste was definitely smoky, but again filled with dark fruit as well as a bevy of bitter, herby nuances. Not bad.


Pickles [$10.00] | kimchi, brined, cured
The pickle plate included your good ol'baechu kimchi, an interesting chicory, bitter mustard greens, sweet carrot, and a super crunchy mu jangajji.


Eggs & Smoked Roe Bing [$18.00]
This seems to be the most popular of the bing, and for good reason. The key is to mix up everything in the bowl, and then spread it on the bread. Do that, and you'll encounter some superb egg-on-egg action meshing lush and smoky with a pop of greenery and the salty crunch of those chips. And the flatbread? The perfect vessel. A favorite of mine.


Bright Eyes [$13.00] | gin, muscat & orange blossom, rio red grapefruit, tonic
Here we have the most quaffable of our cocktails, one with a super fruity, almost candied sort of flavor profile tempered only just by the gin.


Stuffed Peppers [$14.00] | Benton's sack sausage, buttermilk
Next was one of Majordomo's most talked about dishes, and also a standout for me as well. A sort of rejiggered gochu jeon-meets-chile relleno, it married moderately-spiced, just-crispy-enough peppers with an utterly homey, savory filling to make for a very familiar, yet fascinating eating experience. Lovely either with or without the buttermilk.


Raw Sugar Snaps [$10.00] | horseradish, lemon, shallot
I'm a big fan of peas, so this was a must-order. The sugar snaps came out properly crunchy, their bright, green flavors well-accompanied by the zing of horseradish and a squirt of lemon, all while the fried shallots imparted some savoriness to the mix.


Kaleidoscope [$13.00] | cognac, rhubarb amaro, raspberry, hibiscus
Here was a fun cocktail, one that blended loads of sweet berry 'n' hibiscus with the moderating effect of amaro and cognac.



Jumeokbap [$12.00] | seaweed, avocado, sesame
Chang's riff on jumeok bap managed to be another favorite of mine. This do-it-yourself dish was super satisfying, with a great blast of umami from the gim and an interesting element from the avocado, the rice bringing it all together.


Marinated Mushroom [$17.00] | pistachio, radish, mizuna
Mushrooms arrived as woodsy and earthy as you'd want, and I especially appreciated the incorporation of enokitakes. The various elements in the dish made for smart contrasts in both taste and texture, though again, some more actual 'shroom would've been nice (why so stingy with it?).


Thriller [$13.00] | mescal, strega, passionfruit, cardamom, ginger beer
This tiki-ish cocktail went heavy on the fruit and spice, with counterbalancing bitterness, smoke, and herbaceousness from the Strega, as well as a persistent element of cardamom. And yes, that's Boba Fett.


Kombu Cured Diver Scallop [$14.00] | Pink Lady apple dashi
Scallops were clean-tasting, with a focused hit of umami from the kobujime curing process and a tart accent in the form of that apple-infused dashi.


Smoked Cabbage [$12.00] | brown butter, macadamia, chervil
I'm a sucker for cabbage, and this preparation mostly hit the mark with its bitter, smoky astringency playing off of the richness of brown butter. Nice textures here to boot.


Cloak and Dagger [$13.00] | scotch, smoked tea, cherry, drambuie, vermouth, lemon
Our final "savory" cocktail showed off aromas of dark fruit and herb, with a bitter backing. Taste-wise, I got lots of cherry up front, along with some tea-like, astringent notes and a prick of lemon on the back end.


Sliced Kanpachi [$16.00] | citrus, Bonji
Amberjack ate clean and lean, with a nice snap and pops of salt. Lemon worked to accentuate, but more interesting was that Bonji, a soy-sauce like condiment made from fermented grain, one with absolutely massive amounts of umami.


Rice Cakes [$16.00] | spinach, seaweed, anchovy
The tteok dish was to my liking, and I'm generally not super into tteok. I was a fan of the texture on those rice cakes, and really appreciated the depth of flavor provided by the anchovy, while spinach helped moderate things.


Next to drink was some beer, the wine barrel-aged 2015 de Garde Cherry Gose. Nose of sweet, warm, cherried spice, along with a pinch of salinity and a big helping of funk. In terms of taste, think sweet 'n' sour mostly, but with a savory edge and light barnyard layered on top.


Macaroni & Chickpea [$52.00] | black pepper, black truffle
Macaroni was well-textured, and had a particular sweetness to it (from the chickpea Hozon?) that I found interesting, and which made sense with the truffle. That truffle, though, really could've been more assertive, and almost seemed forgettable here.


Tapioca Lo Mein [$15.00] | rapini, garlic, krill
The lao mian was more successful. The noodles had the perfect consistency, and I loved the garlickiness of it all. Krill (saeu jeot?) added a pointed brine to the mix, and the rapini a bitterness, and there was even a sprinkling of heat that worked.


Coincidentally, we happened to be seated next to the inimitable Charlie Fu--local lawyer and well-known Burgundy fiend--and he shared some of the wine that his party had brought: a 2002 Mommessin Clos de Tart, and the 2001 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Romanée St. Vivant.


Onion Rings [$8.00]
Onions rings were lightly-battered, with a crisp, "shatter-y" consistency, and ate beautifully either alone or with the provided dip.




Whole Plate Short Rib (4-6 people) [$190.00] | Smoked bone-in APL-style ribs. Served with beef rice, shiso rice paper, ssamjang & condiments.
No doubt, tonight's pièce de résistance came in the form of short rib, carved tableside, apparently the last order available this particular evening. I don't know what Adam Perry Lang taught the Majordomo team about smoking, but whatever he told 'em, the end product is remarkable. What we got was pretty much a perfect example of short rib: perfect texture, perfect smoke, perfect fattiness, perfect flavor. I'm very tempted to deem this BBQ-KBBQ mash-up the best short rib I've ever had, and that's even without any of the accompaniments (that ssamjang was mighty fine). If that wasn't enough, the meat from the bones was removed and added to rice, then topped with horseradish, scallion, and orange zest, a technique I've encountered (in less fancy form) at a number of Korean eateries throughout the years. The result was perhaps the most satisfyingly decadent bowl of rice I'd ever experienced--a stunner, especially with the heat of that horseradish.


Along with the meat, we opened a bottle of the 2017 AleSmith Rye Whiskey Barrel Aged Vietnamese Coffee Speedway Stout. It smelled great, with aromas of sweet chocolate and roasty coffee all over the place. The palate was thick and rich--notes of oak and spice at the forefront, giving way to more fragrant coffee and chocolate, with vanilla appearing toward the close.


There are but three desserts on offer, so we just ordered 'em all. Click for a larger version.


Strawberry Trifle [$10.00] | buttermilk panna cotta, chiffon cake
This modernized trifle featured the time-tested combination of strawberries and cream, with a smart complementary note from what I believe was pandan on the bottom.


Horchata Kakigori [$15.00] | coffee, rice, dulce de leche
Majordomo's version of Japanese shaved ice worked well enough, though I wish they would've been more heavy-handed with the coffee. The dulce de leche did help, though.


Cocoa Old Fashioned [$14.00] | bourbon, crème de cacao, vermouth, chocolate bitters
Time for a dessert cocktail. Aromas here were toffee-esque, with citrus interspersed. In terms of taste, I found things boozy and quite spicy, with dark fruit, nuts, and cocoa coming in later.


Hotteok [$8.00] | dates, pistachio, sesame
Chang's play on hotteok, a sort of Korean stuffed pancake, was probably my fav of the desserts thanks to its spot on blend of nutty-sweet flavors.


This was a birthday dinner, and a fellow diner made this delightfully bittersweet green tea cake (there's a cake cutting fee of $3 per head), one that wouldn't have seemed terribly out of place on the restaurant's menu.

Majordomo has been hyped to hell, but it looks like most of that is justified. The place fits LA, and works because it's not just a Momofuku rehash. The cooking's kinda-sorta fusion, but doesn't really look like it, and seems specifically designed for an audience that's ostensibly already deeply familiar with the "Asian" cuisines from which Chang draws from. It just works, and in fact, a number of my dining companions have already booked a reservation for a return visit in the near future--that almost never happens with them. As for next steps, I don't know what's in store for Chang with regard to LA (other than another Milk Bar), but personally, I'd love to see a smaller, more intimate, tasting menu-focused spot, a "Majordomo Ko" if you will.

Himitsu Restaurant
828 Upshur St NW, Washington, DC 20011
www.himitsudc.com
Tue 03/13/2018, 08:10p-10:15p





I had time for three dinners on my latest visit to DC, and the first place I hit up was Himitsu, which came highly-recommended by just about every industry person I talked to on my last trip here. The Petworth restaurant is named after the Japanese word for "secret," and is the work of Executive Chef Kevin Tien and Beverage Director Carlie Steiner. The two partners opened the place in November 2016 as a contemporary Japanese-inspired eatery with doses of Latin American, Southeast Asian, Korean, and American Southern influence.

About the Chef: Tien was born in 1987 in Louisiana. His Vietnamese family ran a restaurant, and he started working there around the age of 13. During high school, he was a part-timer at a local Japanese spot, and following graduation, continued on to work as a sushi chef at Tsunami in Baton Rouge to help finance his studies. In 2005, Tien started his undergrad business degree at the University of Louisiana, finishing in 2009, and in 2011, began his M.S. degree in business analytics at Louisiana State University, completing that degree the following year. After a brief stop at Tyson Cole's Uchi in Houston, he moved to DC in 2012. Here, Tien landed a position at José Andrés'Oyamel, which is where he first met his future business partner.

Steiner was born in 1991 and grew up in Virginia Beach. She started working in the industry at the age of 14, and originally wanted to become a chef. After graduating from Frank W. Cox High School in 2009 and completing her culinary arts certificate at VB Tech Center, she enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America. Steiner attained her AOS in 2010 and her BPS in 2012, and while attending school, cooked at both American Bounty (the CIA's in-house restaurant) and the nearby Mashomack Preserve Club. Following, she relocated to the District and worked temporarily at Oyamel while preparing for the opening of Barmini, which debuted in January 2013. She fell in love with bartending, and continued her work there and at Minibar for two years before leaving at the start of 2015. In June that year, Steiner founded her own cocktail catering and consulting company, Stir Bartending Co, which was responsible for the "Variations on a Theme" events held at local bar Petworth Citizen.

Getting back to Tien, in addition to his time at Oyamel, he also cooked at Farmers Fishers Bakers in Georgetown and Kaz Sushi Bistro in Downtown. Following, from 2013 to 2015, he tried to work a desk job at software provider hCentive and insurer GEICO. In October 2015, he became sous chef at David Chang's Momofuku CCDC, a position he held until the following June. At that time, Tien teamed up with local attorney (and neighbor) Logan Hollers and operated Poke Pop, a poke pop-up held at the Prequel event space-slash-incubator. Poke Pop eventually made its way to the in-work Himitsu space and Petworth Citizen for "Variations on a Theme," and at the end of that June, the Chef also cooked a one-night-only Vietnamese pop-up called Xin Chao. He later became a morning line cook at the widely-lauded Pineapple & Pearls.

With some help from crowd funding platform EquityEats, the two partners opened Himitsu in the former home of Paul Ruppert's Crane & Turtle and its temporary successor Cappy's Crabs (which had Johnny Spero at the helm). The restaurant had only 24 seats (eight of which are at the bar) and no reservations, but quickly became one of the hottest spots in town. People outside of DC began to notice, too. In February 2017, Tien was deemed a "Rising Star Chef of the Year" semifinalist by James Beard, while August saw Himitsu get an "America's Best New Restaurants" finalist nod from Bon Appetit. That fall, Washingtonian deemed the place one of "The 10 Best New Restaurants Around DC," and The Washington Post's Tom Sietsema gave it the #3 spot on his "2017 Fall Dining Guide." Most recently, in February, Washingtonian placed Himitsu fourth on its list of "The 100 Very Best Restaurants in Washington." If that wasn't enough, Tien is currently competing on season two of Food Network's Iron Chef Gauntlet (alongside LA's David LeFevre).


Himitsu's oft-changing menu is refreshingly compact, with only a dozen or so shareable small plates (apparently there's also an "omakase" option). Note that the sushi/sashimi options that were here when the restaurant opened have since been removed. To drink, you get a small-but-interesting wine list with a particular focus on Sherry (Steiner developed a taste for Jerez as a member of the RedEye Menus supper club), as well as a smattering of beer and fun cocktails. Click for larger versions.


rosebud;!;!;!;! [$15.00] | green tea gin, grapefruit, honey + rosewater
I'm not sure what all the extraneous punctuation was all about with this cocktail, but it worked well enough. The bitterness of the tea was right in your face, but also evened out by the the sweetness of grapefruit and honey to make for a pretty balanced drink. I would've liked to have tasted more from the rosewater, though.


Kurodai Crudo [$16.00] | local black bass, daikon-garlic sauce, french breakfast radish, tempura shiso
The kuro dai was excellent, one of the best preparations of the snapper I've had no doubt, and my favorite dish of the evening. The fish ate clean and lean, with a snappy bite, and paired beautifully with the depth of that garlic sauce, which had an almost truffle-like headiness to it. I also appreciated the slight heat present, and the crunch of that tempura was spot on.


Oyster+Kimchi [$13.00] | louisiana gold band oysters, scallion, fresno chili, sesame, nori
Oysters were plump and briny, and showed off a wonderful back-and-forth with the spice and crunch of baechu kimchi. Also key were the seaweed and sesame, which imparted a great nutty-savoriness on the back end. Another winner.


gin-tonic [$12.00] | rujero singani, tonic, citrus + herbs
I had my first taste of singani (basically a Bolivian brandy) at Himitsu, and rather enjoyed it neat. Thus, I asked to have it in a cocktail as well, and ended up getting a gin and tonic with singani replacing the namesake gin. You could really taste the grapiness of the spirit, and it actually meshed really well with the tonic and citrusy, herbaceous nature of the drink.


Nasu Dengaku [$12.00] | eggplant, yuzu-miso, chili-lime vinaigrette, scallions + sesame + candied pumpkin seeds
The perfectly-textured miso-glazed eggplant was another standout, and one of the strongest preparations of nasu I've had. There was a really fine balance of sweet and savory here, along with just the right amount of tempering smoke. The scallions provided a bright, zippy accent to the dish, and I loved the crunchiness and nuttiness of those pepitas.


Buffalo "Wings" [$18.00] | cornmeal fried quail breast, chili kosho buffalo sauce, shiso buttermilk ranch, pickled carrots
The quail was a fun one, and came out with a gritty, crunchy crust and tender, juicy insides. I was a fan of the zestiness of the ranch, while the Buffalo sauce on the bottom added a good measure of heat and tartness.


ambidextrous [$15.00] | aged rum, sweet vermouth, cacao nibs, bruto americano
My final cocktail was described as an "aromatic Negroni," though the resemblance wasn't that strong by my estimation. Nevertheless, it was a solid drink. Loads of vermouth on the nose, punctuated by citrus. The palate was bittersweet at first blush, but then showcased the rum and chocolate, with again more citrus as an accent.


Walu Walu [$22.00] | pan-seared escolar, kumquat marmalade, yuzu-ponzu, scallion + myoga
Waloo arrived meaty and flaky, with a definite fattiness to it as expected. Flavors were savory and saline, but with a counterpoint from the sweetness of kumquat. A bit heavy, but the greenery up top worked to lighten the dish.


Osso Bucco Congee [$27.00] | braised pork shank, rice porridge, crispy shallots
I ended with the "ossobuco." The pork came out super tender, near falling-apart, and was loaded with rich, dark, homey flavors and just the right amount of sweetness. That cozy porridge made total sense as a pairing, though I really wanted more of it. Nice tang on those onions, too.


Unfortunately, no dessert is served at Himitsu, so I had to make do with a couple shards of sticky cayenne-laced sesame brittle that arrived with the plastic dinosaur-presented bill.

Himitsu's been getting a lot of attention ever since it opened, but I can understand why. You can clearly see the Japanese base in the cooking, but even more important is that Tien's not bound by it. The food instead incorporates a hodgepodge of global influences that really jibe without drawing too much attention to themselves. Combined with the lighthearted but precise service, and you get a dinner that's inviting-yet-warm, refined-yet-unquestionably fun. A welcomed development for DC dining for sure.

---

Monte Carlo [$12.00] | Rye, Angostura Bitters, Benedictine
Given that Himitsu doesn't take reservations, I ended up having to wait about 40 minutes, and thus moseyed on over to Petworth Citizen across the street for some drinks. My first cocktail was definitely on the spirit-forward side of things. It had a nose that was slightly fruity at first, but also teeming with bitter, herbaceous nuances. On the palate, I got a lot of medicinal, botanical notes leading to rye-fueled spice and a touch of fruitiness on the finish.


Daily Punch Bowl [$7.00] | Gin, Ginger, Citrus, Sparkling Wine, Campari
I wanted to go with something lighter for my second cocktail, and the evening's special punch tickled my fancy. It was an easy-drinker for sure, with lots of citrus and ginger and overarching bittersweet notes from the Campari.

Kith/Kin Restaurant
801 Wharf St SW, Washington, DC 20024
202.878.8566
www.kithandkindc.com
Wed 03/14/2018, 07:30p-10:15p





Over the past few years, one of the District restaurants that I was most excited about was Kwame Onwuachi's Shaw Bijou. Unfortunately, the decidedly upmarket, tasting menu-centric joint managed to last about 10 weeks before it closed (these days, the Chef humorously refers to it as a "pop-up"). Onwuachi didn't let that indignity deter him though, and he's back on the scene with Kith and Kin ("friends and family"), which opened on October 12th last year. Situated at The Wharf development, the spot serves Afro-Caribbean cuisine inspired by the Chef's multicultural heritage, presented in a more casual, approachable format that's already allowed the place to outlast its predecessor.

About the Chef: Onwuachi was born in 1990 on Long Island to a Creole-Trinidadian mother and a Jamaican-Nigerian father. Dad worked in construction while mom was an accountant, but the pair divorced when the Chef was two years old. Afterward, he and older sister Tatiana moved with mother Jewel Robinson to an apartment in the Bronx. In order to spend more time at home, Robinson quit her 9-5 and started a craft service catering company called Jewels, and he and Tatiana were forced to help out. Onwuachi attended the gifted program at P.S. 153 and got good grades, but was also a troublemaker. He got a stepfather at age nine, but that didn't help, and when he was 12, mom ended up sending him to live in a village in Nigeria with his paternal grandfather, Patrick Chike Onwuachi (a former professor at Howard). The point of this was to teach the young man "respect," and during his time there, Onwuachi lived a tough life, even having to catch and kill his own food.

After two years, he returned to the US with an enlightened outlook, and later graduated from the Bronx Leadership Academy in 2007. He went on to study business at the University of Bridgeport in Connecticut, but dropped out after his sophomore year. He then moved to Louisiana to live with his mother, who had become a hotel chef in Baton Rouge. The Deepwater Horizon disaster occurred in April 2010, and Onwuachi ended up landing a gig on one of BP's clean-up ships, eventually becoming head cook for the 40-person vessel. He moved back to New York later that year and started working as a waiter at Craft, but quickly grew dissatisfied being in the FOH. Somewhat randomly, he offered to cater a grand opening for a small retail shop in SoHo, free of charge no less. The opening went well, and he was inspired to start his own catering company.

He quit Craft and, interestingly enough, started hawking candy on the subway to raise funds. Purchasing wholesale from BJ's and reselling, he managed to raise $20,000 in two months, which allowed him to secure a spot at the Hot Bread Kitchen incubator. Coterie Catering was thus born at the start of 2011, and operated for about a year-and-a-half, providing food services for events big and small. Onwuachi wanted to learn more though, and so in 2012, he enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America. He still catered on the side briefly during this period, and even offered jobs to his fellow students. He also staged at John Besh's Restaurant August (where he met mentor Marcus Samuelsson) and Per Se, and cooked on the line at Eleven Madison Park. After graduating in summer 2014, Onwuachi joined Dinner Lab, a roving pop-up competition for up-and-coming cooks (he won), and ended up being introduced to Kelly Gorsuch and Glenn Paik at a stop in DC.

The two businessmen agreed to fund a restaurant with virtually no restrictions (apparently $2 million was raised). The Shaw Bijou (an homage to mom, as "bijou" translates to "jewel" in French) was thus born at the start of 2015, with Greg Vakiner joining the team as GM. The two longtime friends were sent around the globe for R&D, and later that year, Onwuachi participated in Top Chef: California, which started airing in December. He finished 6th among a field that included SoCal chefs Amar Santana, Phillip Frankland Lee, and Giselle Wellman. In March 2016, he cooked at the White House Easter Egg Roll, and that August, landed a book deal with Knopf for a memoir with the cringe-inducing title of Chasing Happiness. November 1st, 2016 saw the debut of Shaw Bijou in Gorsuch's former residence, and the restaurant was quickly attacked for its high price point: $185 for food, another $185 for wine, tax and tip not included. Two months in, the menu was changed to seven courses for $95, and the planned members-only upstairs lounge was turned into a bar with à la carte ordering.

That wasn't enough though, and the place shuttered shortly after, in January 2017, having not even made it three months. After this humiliation, Onwuachi considered getting out of the restaurant biz, but wound up doing some traveling in Latin America, and bounced back quickly. In May that year, he was contacted by the InterContinental hotel and started work on Kith and Kin, which opened in October serving food that's much more accessible compared to that of his previous venture. Top Chef: Colorado premiered in December, and he reappeared as a returning contestant, competing (along with Marcel Vigneron) in Last Chance Kitchen for the opportunity to enter the main competition (which featured the likes of Bruce Kalman and Joe Sasto III). He got close, but didn't quite make the cut, eliminated in the last round.



Kith and Kin sits on the ground floor of the InterContinental Washington D.C., facing the water. The dining room, swathed in golden and neutral tones, is actually quite luxe, and offers seating for 96 guests.


The menu draws inspiration from the Chef's background, featuring updated versions of African, Caribbean, and Creole dishes. There's also an abbreviated bar menu, and given that this is a hotel restaurant, breakfast and lunch are also options (though the breakfast fare is pretty typical). Click for larger versions.


Beverage-wise, you get a surprisingly appealing, rum-heavy cocktail list from lead barman Zachary Hoffman, a Shaw Bijou alum who most recently tended bar at Mirabelle (which is on my list to try). If that's not your thing, there's also a small, humdrum wine list and a pretty pedestrian selection of beer. Click for larger versions.


Vieux Carribe [$16.00] | Woodford Reserve Rye, Plantation Pineapple, Cocchi di Torino, Peychaud, Angostura, Alomo bitters
My first cocktail was a Caribbean-ish take on the classic Vieux Carré, with rum in place of cognac (among other changes). I got a wonderfully aromatic nose filled with spice and citrus, with a hint of booziness underneath. The taste brought fruit flavors at first, with bittersweet notes coming in later, the whole thing finishing with lingering spice, rye, and overtones of vanilla. Nice!


Dry Aged Beef Suya Skewers [$6.00] | Shitto honey glaze, white onion, parsley
Up first was the Chef's interpretation of the suya skewer, one of the national foods of Nigeria. This polished version of the street snack showed off a lovely smoke and char, along with a robust, building spice and a blast of savory funk from the dry-aged meat. The onions proved to be a zesty counterpoint, and there was even this undercurrent of sweetness that worked. A fun, easy start.


Bread duties were handled by this housemade coco, a Caribbean staple. Think soft, buttery, just sweet enough, with some well-placed pricks of salt for balance. Pretty addictive, so be sure not to fill up on it.


Brussels Suya [$12.00] | Suya spice, roasted tomato soubise, lime
Given my penchant for Brussels, I had to get this, and wasn't disappointed. I loved the satisfyingly firm-but-yielding texture on the sprouts, while the smoke and sear was just to my liking. The key here, though, was that suya spice blend, which provided a creeping heat as well as complementary savory-sweet notes that meshed beautifully with the veggies. Excellent brightness from the combination of lime, onion, and tomato, too.


Smoked Redfish and Andouille Toast [$12.00] | Red drum rillette, andouille sausage, shaved radish, pistachio
Rillettes of red drum ate creamy and mild, with a restrained sweetness, and worked better than I expected with the super flavorful, snappy andouille while all the greenery offered up a light, zippy contrast.


Papa Bois [$15.00] | Bulleit Rye, Pyrat XO Rum, coconut water, pineapple shrub pineapple juice, Angostura bitters
For my next cocktail, I moved on to the punch section of the list. The drink smelled of sweet spice and citrus, while the taste brought more of that tropical spice, along with a healthy dosing of pineapple and light coconut toward the back end. Quaffable.


Beef Patties [$10.00] | Calypso sauce
Here were the Chef's reworked versions of the iconic Jamaican patty. A soft, flaky, crumbly pastry crust was filled with a well-spiced, almost curry-ish preparation of ground beef, and the zippy sauce on the side helped lift the dish.


Spicy Red Lentils [$13.00] | Shiro, marinated tomatoes, baby kale
This Ethiopian-ish dish was one of my favorites. There was just this great depth and coziness to the lentils that was perfect for DC's cold, blustery weather. The kale proved to be a wonderful counterbalance for the stew, and the tomatoes added just a smidge of lightness to things. Excellent crunch from the fried injera bits, too.


Torched Mackerel [$18.00] | Jollof rice, pearl onion petals, parsley
Mackerel arrived soft and characteristically briny, and was tasty in its own right, but the star here was that jollof rice, which I'll describe as somewhat reminiscent of Spanish rice, with some jambalaya-esque elements. Its taste was definitely homey, yet multifaceted and subtly spiced, and I quite enjoyed eating it just by itself. Great tanginess and crunch from the onions to boot.


Goat Roti [$22.00] | Curried goat, crispy potatoes, dahl puri roti
The goat was another standout, arriving tender, toothsome, and well-accompanied by chunks of potato. The Trinidadian-inspired green curry packed a punch for sure, but was never overwhelming, and always deeply satisfyingly. Veggies up top offered just a smidge of lightness, and I loved the fluffiness of that roti--a perfect pairing.


Caribbean Belt [$16.00] | El Silencio Mezcal, pineapple, lime, ginger/chili/coconut crème
My final cocktail smelled of coconut and pineapple, with a slight heat. Taste-wise though, things were much more assertive. I got lots of tropical sweetness up front, leading to smoky mezcal and a strong, long-lasting, in-your-face heat.


Gumbo [$24.00] | Grilled quail, smoked andouille sausage, long grain rice
The last savory dish of the night was a gumbo inspired by what the Chef's mother used to prepare back in the day in the Bronx. I found the quail juicy and tender, with a great smoke to it, while the andouille was just as good as you'd expect. The hero here, however, was the gumbo stock. Its flavors were super well-developed, with an earthiness, a grassiness, a funkiness, a brininess to it that really sang.


Desserts are the work of Pastry Chef Michael Brown. Click for a larger version.


Puff Puff [$11.00] | Fried dough, vanilla sorghum anglaise, cashew granola
My first dessert was puff-puff, a decidedly beignet-like creation common in Nigeria. The fritters were soft, light, and fluffy, with a slightly sweet-spicy nature and a cool, creamy counterpoint in the form of that vanilla-scented crème anglaise. The granola, meanwhile, worked to provide a contrasting crunch and nuttiness to the dish.


Habanero Peppers [$11.00] | White grape, sudachi, habanada
The second dessert was much more intriguing. Rest assured, these were not your typical habaneros. Rather, we had a heatless strain called the habanada ("nada"=nothing, get it?), which are cooked, puréed, and mixed with white grape. The resultant mousse is then frozen in molds, glazed with white chocolate and colored gelatin, and served in an elderflower and sudachi granita. Tasting a "pepper," I got the fruity, floral nature of the habanero, intermixed with grape, while the "snow" functioned as a tangy, refreshing contrast. Unique for sure.

Sadly, I never got to try The Shaw Bijou, so I can't compare Kith and Kin to it, but I can say that I definitely enjoyed this meal. I've never had cooking quite like this before. Flavors are big, bold, but never clumsy, always precise, and the food really is Onwuachi on a plate, so to speak. Afro-Caribbean cuisine isn't very well represented in general, and I think that this place can function as a worthy introduction for many diners. As for what's next, I'm told that ideally the Chef would like to venture into the high-end again with a more intimate, more personal restaurant with a West African focus, but I think we might have to wait a while for that to materialize.

Crumbs & Whiskers Cat Cafe
7924 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.879.9389
www.crumbsandwhiskers.com
Sat 03/03/2018, 06:20p-07:40p





The first cat cafe opened in Taipei in 1998, but the concept really took off when it was introduced to Tokyo in 2005. In the US, Oakland's Cat Town was the first on the scene, back in October 2014 (we Americans were super late to the game, apparently). Crumbs & Whiskers, meanwhile, opened in Washington DC in June 2015, the brainchild of Kanchan Singh and brother Chetan. This second LA outpost bowed in September 2016 (the first permanent cat cafe in the Southland), and like the original, offers boarding space for over a dozen cats, all of which are of course available for adoption.

I was always a bit curious about the place (having never been to a cat cafe), but the impetus to come here was actually a friend of mine. She mentioned that she had not even once played with a cat before (hard to believe I know), so I figured a visit was definitely in order.


At our session start, we were given a quick introduction to the place by the staff, then were set free to interact with the cats.












Pictured above is the back two-thirds of the space.












You're prompted to place your order upon checking in. Your food/drink is then prepared by the nearby Open Space Cafe & Theater and delivered. Click for a larger version.












Arriving about halfway through our session, our tea and cookies were perfectly serviceable.

Kinship Restaurant
1015 7th St NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.737.7700
www.kinshipdc.com
Thu 03/15/2018, 09:00p-12:05a



I started coming to DC for business over 10 years ago, and Eric Ziebold's CityZen was the second or third restaurant I ever dined at (the first was Zaytinya I think). The place closed a while back though, and when I found out that he'd opened a new spot, I had to prioritize a visit. Created in partnership with Célia Laurent (his wife), Kinship offers up the Chef's take on modern American cuisine (a nebulous term I know, but appropriate in this case) in a more relaxed setting compared to CityZen.

About the Chef: Ziebold was born in 1972 in Iowa. To make some extra cash, he began working at a place called Cafe Maude in his early teens, learning under mentor Matt Nichols. Following high school, he enrolled at the University of Northern Iowa for finance, and continued cooking while attending classes. After two years, Ziebold realized that his calling was in the kitchen, quit UNI, and enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America. While attending the CIA, he externed at the old Spago on Sunset, since Nichols had become Exec Chef there. He graduated in 1994, cooked briefly on the line at Jeffrey Buben's Vidalia, and also staged in France at Taillevent, L'Aubergade, and La Bastide Saint Antoine.

In March 1996, Ziebold landed a position at The French Laundry, where he worked closely with mentor Thomas Keller (things were a lot more low key back in the 90s) and became the restaurant's first Chef de Cuisine. He stayed at TFL for eight years, and during the end of his tenure, even assisted with the opening of Per Se. He left for DC in early 2004, and in September, opened CityZen (the somewhat cringey name was not the Chef's choice) at the new Mandarin Oriental. The place received significant praise right from the start and racked up a number of awards: "America's Best New Chefs" from Food & Wine in 2005, "Best New Restaurant" from the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington in 2005, "Best New Restaurants" from Esquire in 2005, "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" from James Beard in 2008, "Chef of the Year" from the RAMW in 2008.

In September 2009, Ziebold opened Sou'Wester at the Mandarin Oriental, a more casual, American Southern eatery replacing the former Café MoZU. The place suffered from poor reviews however, and was replaced by Muze in April 2014. In August 2014, the Chef signed a lease for his first solo restaurant, and left CityZen that December; the restaurant shut down immediately afterward. Kinship soft-opened almost exactly a year later, and grand-opened on January 4th, 2016 to considerable anticipation. Métier, Ziebold's higher-end, tasting menu-only restaurant debuted in April that year.



Kinship's located in an 1887-era building in Mount Vernon Square, the former home of the longstanding Alperstein's Furniture Company. The interior was redone by Darryl Carter in a mostly neutral color palette. There's room for around five dozen diners in the main dining area, with additional capacity in the bar/lounge. A private dining room seats 20 more.


The menu's interestingly formatted, divvied up into sections for Craft (showcasing a particular a cooking technique), History (classics revisited), Ingredients (highlighting a specific product), Indulgence (featuring more luxurious items), and For the Table (larger format choices). Click for a larger version.


Drink-wise, you get eight cocktails, a handful of beers, and a compact wines by the glass selection. Note, however, that there's also a much more extensive wine list (not pictured) from Sommelier Chase DuBay (The Modern, Momofuku, Eleven Madison Park, Cyrus, CityZen), one featuring mostly French and American bottlings, some at quite reasonable prices (a magnum of 2000 Latour for $3400?). Corkage is $50 a bottle, with a limit of one per every two diners. Click for larger versions.


Devil Tree [$14.00] | Calvados, Amaro Montenegro, Falernum, Lemon, Black Walnut
My first cocktail had a base of calvados, a relatively uncommon sight. I got lots of citrus on the nose, along with a marked astringent quality. The taste was tart, earthy, even a bit funky at first, with nutty and chocolate-y notes appearing in the middle.


Corned Beef and Cabbage [$16.00] | Cabbage Confit Agnolotti, Corned Beef Short Ribs, Shaved Carrots and Coriander Emulsion
I began with a reinvented version of the classic pairing of corned beef and cabbage. It was a homey sort of combination, the sweet, vegetal, almost buttery pasta playing well with the aggressively-seasoned beef while carrots added a pop of brightness.


Two varieties of bread were offered. The Italian was fairly typical, with a slight sourness. I much preferred the multigrain, which conveyed an excellent nuttiness and roast, along with a savoriness that almost recalled Japanese rice crackers (senbei). A demisphere of butter, meanwhile, was just as soft and sweet as I wanted.


Scallop Mulligawtawny [$24.00] | with Fairytale Pumpkin, Green Lentils and Madras Curry
Scallops were well-caramelized, yet still supple and rare on the inside, and showed off a forceful brine that worked surprisingly well with the dish's curried, coconut-y, mulligatawny-inspired broth. I especially appreciated the incorporation of lentils.


Path Valley Soft Boiled Egg [$30.00] | Pomme Rösti and Périgord Truffle Coulis
A perfectly cooked runny egg came dressed in a coulis with some of the most concentrated truffle flavor that I'd ever experienced. That super funky, barnyard-y character worked beautifully with the comparatively mild taste of the egg, and I loved the contrast provided by the hash brown-like potatoes. As delicious and decadent as you'd expect--a favorite of mine.


The American Quarter [$14.00] | Bourbon, Nardini Amaro Bassano, Gran Classico, Dry Curaçao, Orange Bitters
This next cocktail showcased a thoroughly aromatic nose filled with bittersweet dark fruit, herbs, and citrus. The taste brought a fruitiness at first, which led to more bitter, medicinal nuances and the heat of the whiskey, while the finish has a surprising mintiness that lingered.


Grilled Shenandoah Valley Beef Heart [$15.00] | Tater Tots, Chive Blossoms, Pistachio and Parsley Pesto
Beef hearts had a snap to 'em, along with some really deep, earthy flavors. The paired pesto worked perfectly as a bright, zippy contrast, and I loved the counterpoint provided by the tots, too.


Baked Potato Chowder [$13.00] | with Heirloom Potatoes, Scallions, Bacon and Biscuits
The chowder was as advertised, tasting just like a baked potato. It was comfy, hearty, and very apropos for the cold weather we were having. I especially enjoyed the cheesiness of the dish, as well as the zestiness of the scallions.


Chicken Fried Path Valley Sunchokes [$14.00] | with Preserved Clementines and Cannelle Braised Pea Shoots
Fried sunchokes had a light, crisp batter that linked up great with the sort of fibrous texture of the root vegetable. Flavors were subtly sweet, nutty, vegetal, and worked well with the pea shoots, all while the citrus imparted a bit of astringency to the mix.


Eternal Sunshine [$14.00] | Aged Rum, Amaro Angostura, Cinnamon, Allspice, Lemon
The evening's third and final cocktail displayed a marriage of dark fruit, rum spice, and herbaceousness from the Angostura, set against cinnamon and lemon on the mid-palate, while the finish was all about that allspice.


Parker House Rolls [$10.00]
I was a big fan of the Parker House rolls over at CityZen, and the ones tonight might've been even better: super soft, airy, fluffy, with a subdued sweetness punctuated by pops of salt. Delish.


Sautéed Virginia Black Bass [$25.00] | with Baby Bok Choy, Shiitake Mushroom and Yuzu Kosho Broth
This was another standout for me. The bass came out perfectly cooked, with its crispy, flavorful skin working as a foil to the fish's moist, meaty flesh. The mushrooms contributed an additional hit of umami, and I definitely liked the contrast provided by the bok choy. However, my favorite element here was that yuzukosho, which gave the dish a wonderful creeping, building heat.


Desserts are the work of Pastry Chef Anne Specker, a CityZen vet. I was quite full at this point, so I only ordered one, the lightest by my server's estimation. Click for larger versions.


Chilled Greek Yogurt Sabayon [$12.00] | Yuzu Curd, Olive Oil Cake, Candied Kumquats and Yuzu-Yogurt Sherbet
As mentioned above, I was looking for a lighter dessert, and this fit the bill. There was just a superb mix of citrusy and lactic flavors here that made for an almost Creamsicle-like sensation. I got some great textures too, especially from the olive oil cake.

It was nice to see Ziebold back in action after all these years. The food was executed beautifully, and I appreciated the diversity of the cooking, with its multitude of influences, balancing familiarity with creativity. I almost think of the place as a more casual, more playful version of CityZen, which isn't a bad thing at all. By the same token, I envision Métier as a more formal, more intimate incarnation, and hopefully I'll get to visit it on my next trip out here.

Vacation Bar
204 W 4th St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
657.266.0855
www.vacationdtsa.com
Sat 03/24/2018, 07:10p-09:20p





Downtown Santa Ana has established itself as one of the hippest locales in Orange County over the past few years, and the area just got another feather in its cap with the debut of Vacation. The cocktail bar opened in August 2017 after being in the works for three years (its original name: Spurgeon Social). It's the creation of Harrison "Harry" Kho (Harry's Deli in Irvine) and Chris Parker, and features cocktails ostensibly inspired by world travels.

As to who came up with those cocktails, it's none other than Gabriella Mlynarczyk, whom we've seen at the likes of Accomplice, Birch, Cadet, ink, and Eva. Food-wise, things are the work of Chef Aron Habiger, who returns to DTSA after a stint at Petit Trois. Before that, he cooked at The North Left and The Crosby, which were both just up the street from Vacation (at the current site of Irenia).


Vacation resides on the ground floor of the 1913-era W.H. Spurgeon Building (Spurgeon was the founder of Santa Ana), a designated historical landmark. The spot previously housed a fragrance retailer (Fragrance House), and before that, a jeweler (Joyeria Valencia), but has been completely revamped by Parker himself, with help from locals Desanka Fasiska and George Bernal (who did the custom furniture). It's a pretty large, spread-out space, and has a vacation-y, tropical hotel lobby-ish feel.


The bar sports a compact list of Mlynarczyk's cocktails, along with a few beers and the requisite wines. The food menu, meanwhile, features fancy bar fare, also with a bit of an international bent. Click for larger versions.


New York, USA [$13.00] | cinnamon, bourbon, red wine, apple lemon, aquafaba
We commenced with this cinnamon-boosted variation of the New York Sour cocktail. I got an astringent, eggy nose, with a pinch of spice. The taste leaned tart, fruity, and showed off more sweet spice along with a red wine element in the background. A good start.


Beef Tartare [$12.00] | fresh cut daily steak / capers / parsley / shallots / cornichons / house sauce / quail yolk / rusty's island chips
This was definitely a favorite of ours, and one the tastier tartars I've had recently. The beef was perfectly textured, and paired in classic fashion with its various accompaniments, the creamy, tangy "house sauce" tying it all together. Superb crunch and salt on those chips as well.


Chorizo Potatoes [$9.00] | baby yukon / chorizo mornay sauce / oaxaca cheese / fresno chile
Next was a cheesy combination of chorizo and potatoes that needed a couple tweaks. I didn't get much spice from the advertised chorizo, and the dish overall could've used more acidity to counter the heavy, slightly sweet flavors at play. I would've liked a firmer consistency on the taters, too.


Tokyo, Japan [$13.00] | matcha green tea, pear eau de vie, sake, peach calpico, aquafaba
This was the first time I'd encountered an LED light in a cocktail, but it made sense I suppose as a reference to the plethora of neon dotting Tokyo's thoroughfares. The nose here was super fruity, but with a moderating acerbic quality. The taste went in a sweet, fruit-forward direction, but had more of those tart, sharp flavors for balance. I also got loads of pear on the back end of this Ramos gin fizz-like concoction.


Quesadilla [$14.00] | blue corn tortilla / burnt manchego / oaxaca cheese / avocado / tomatillo salsa / tapatio crema / lettuce
The 'dilla was another standout. I loved its sheer cheesiness, as well as the smokiness from the charred manchego. The tortilla worked to ground the dish, and I definitely appreciated the contrast provided by the various greenery.


Pork Belly Lollipops [$12.00] | pork belly / soy lemongrass & ginger caramel / parsnip purée
Pork belly was richly flavored, with a marked sweetness and an almost funky quality evened out by the presence of parsnip. However, I really wanted more tenderness, more juiciness to the meat.


Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, France [$13.00] | raspberry eau de vie, orgeat, lemon, absinthe, lacroix berry
Next was a drink taking inspiration from Cap Ferrat's Villa La Mauresque and the traditional Mauresque, a cocktail popular in the south of France. I found it fruity for sure, but never cloying thanks to the somewhat oxidative flavors present, as well as its pervasive-but-delicate notes of anise.


Seasonal Vegetable [$10.00] | Globally inspired and always changing / ask your server
The evening's special veggie dish was a combo of beets and burrata. It's a classic marriage for sure, and it definitely worked. I got a firm texture on the beets, which I appreciated, and the cheese functioned as a cool, creamy counterpoint. Great savoriness and crunch from the fried shallots too.


Hot Chicken [$9.00] | boneless chicken thigh / honey habanero buffalo-ish sauce / toast + pickles
Fried chicken was a must-try for us. The bird came out well-textured and pretty juicy, with a flavor profile that was a balance between spicy and sweet. The scallions provided a welcomed zippiness, while toast and pickles worked as traditional companions.


Andalusia, Spain [$13.00] | strawberry, manzanilla sherry, rosewater, lemon, strawberry ale, pink peppercorn
Our final libation draws from the Andalusian beverage of manzanilla (a type of chamomile tea) as well as the Rebujito cocktail (sherry and soda). I got plenty of rich, fruity, floral flavors on the front end. This was joined by tempering bitter, saline, and oxidative notes, while the finish again showed off the fruit.


Apple Pie a la Mode [$7.00] | pie crust crumble / brandy flambéed apple / vanilla bean ice cream
The dessert ended up being gratis, and was this sort of deconstructed apple pie. There was a nice back-and-forth between the ice cream and richness of the crust, which had a butteriness that recalled Danish biscuits. The apples, meanwhile, had an almost minty quality, probably from what they were flambéed in.

If I'm in OC, I tend to gravitate toward Downtown Santa Ana pretty often, so I'm glad to have another worthwhile drinking option there. The cocktails were interesting and well-made, but there was also a playfulness, a whimsy to them that I appreciated, while the food lived up to expectations for the most part despite some misfires. I can sorta see Vacation being one of my go-to spots in the area.

Izakaya Hachi
1880 W Carson St, Torrance, CA 90501
310.618.8357
www.manpuku.co/en/shoplist/hachi/
Sun 04/01/2018, 08:35p-10:30p





We were recently in the South Bay in search of a good izakaya, and Hachi was pretty much the first place that came to mind. I'd never tried it before, but the restaurant had been on my to-eat list for a while now. The place is part of the Manpuku family of restaurants (known for their eponymous yakiniku joints), and opened in June 2013. There's also another outpost in Costa Mesa (in the same strip mall as Anjin), which debuted in May 2016.


Hachi takes over the address that was once home to Shin Okinawa Izakaya, and Housenka before that. The decor's pretty traditional, with lots of dark wood and a cozy sort of feel. There's room for about 44 diners, spread out between tables, a couple booths, and of course the counter (where we were seated).


Hachi's menu features an array of your typical izakaya dishes, and there's also a supplemental list of specials that you'll want to order off of. Click for larger versions.


To drink, Hachi has a decent sake list, and also offers shochu, the usual beers, and a smattering of wine (some of it pretty well-priced). Corkage is $25. Click for larger versions.



Chef's Special Appetizer [$12.00]
We began with a trio of sakizuke:

• Monkfish Liver ANKIMO with Ponzu - Supple but sturdy in consistency, with that classic, liver-y richness and an undercurrent of brine. Not surprisingly, momiji oroshi and kyuri worked to smooth out the strong flavors at play.
• Salmon Roe Ikura with Ground Radish - Ikura was smoky and saline, and had a palpable heat from the wasabi. Grated daikon served as a welcomed moderating element.
• Squid with Mentai Spicy cod - Slivers of squid were soft and slightly chewy, while a light coating of mentaiko imparted a sharp, focused salinity to the dish.

Beef Tongue Stew [$10.50]
A stew of gyutan delivered. The meat had a tender, hearty, braise-y consistency that I enjoyed, while flavors were deep and earthy, just as you'd expect from tongue. A cozy sort of dish, brightened up just enough by the greens.


Assorted Beef Sashimi [$14.50]
Raw beef arrived in three forms. From left to right:

• Short Rib - Firm to the bite, with some well integrated marbling. Especially tasty when taken with the negi and a dab of soy.
• Tongue - Chewy and snappy, this cut really called for some 'sabi.
• Zabuton - Taken from the shoulder (chuck), this one was on the leaner side, with a restrained flavor profile and a touch of sweetness to it.

To drink, we had a bottle of the 2013 Perennial La Boheme, a Flanders Red ale fermented in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels with Pedio, Lacto, Brett, and Michigan sour cherries. Nose of dark cherry and semi-sweet spice, with a layer of funk. The taste brought oak, cherry, stewed dark fruit, yeast, and of course a marked tartness, all in a well-balanced package. The beer had aged quite nicely, and still had plenty of life left in it.


Special KAMAMESHI (Sea Eel ANAGO) [$18.00]
The kamameshi was a homey presentation, the rice working as a natural complement to the soft, sweet 'n' savory eel while the scallions lifted the dish. I also appreciated the kinshi tamago (shredded egg) in there, while a sprinkle of the provided nori was the perfect finishing touch.


Jidori Chicken Thigh "Negima" [$3.50]
Our first of two yakitori items was the ubiquitous negima. Think nicely charred and smoky, yet juicy and flavorful, the spring onions adding a well-placed zestiness.


Jidori Chicken Nankotsu [$6.50]
Cartilage came out delightfully crunchy, with a just-light-enough batter. The creamy sauce on the side worked as an accompaniment, as did a squirt of lemon.


Jidori Chicken Meat Ball "Tsukune" [$3.00]
A soft, juicy meatball showed off a delicious combination of smoky, sweet, and savory flavors, and had some scallion mixed in there for contrast.


Pork Cheek [$10.50] | w/ Yuzu sauce
Tontoro displayed its signature texture, which combined crunchy, tender, and fatty into one thoroughly satisfying package. I also appreciated the smokiness imbued in the pork, while the yuzukosho gave up blasts of sour and spicy and salty that made for the perfect accent.


Jidori Omelet [$8.00]
We ended with the tamagoyaki, a soft, fluffy preparation with a definite sweetness to it, as well as a noticeable brine. Be sure to make use of the provided daikon oroshi.

We were in search of an izakaya experience, and Hachi delivered pretty much just what we were looking for. I found it hard to find too much fault with the food, and had no complaints with the service either. The place is often considered the prototypical example of its kind in the Torrance area, and I can see why. A very solid choice if you're seeking izakaya fare.

LASA Restaurant
727 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.443.6163
www.lasa-la.com
Sun 04/08/2018, 11:10a-01:30p



Chad and Chase Valencia's LASA is no doubt one of the restaurants leading the charge in LA's recent Filipino cuisine renaissance. I'd visited the Chinatown eatery a couple times before, and recently stopped by to check the place out for lunch.


While LASA's dinner menu features elevated Cal-Philippine fare, lunch is much more casual, focusing on rice and noodle bowl type dishes. Click for larger versions.


Our Chicken Adobo [$10.00 + $1.50] | Vinegar Braised Chicken Leg & Thigh. Crispy Garlic. Adobo Jus. Jasmine Rice. Radish & Scallions. + Soft Egg
Chicken arrived flavorful and pretty juicy, and was tasty just by itself, though the garlicky rice made sense as an accompaniment. I especially appreciated the crunch and acidity provided by the cubes of radish.


O.G. Pancit [$10.00 + $1.50] | Egg Noodles. Calamansi Butter. Patis Cured Egg Yolk. Scallions. + Soft Egg
Noodles were chewy and substantial, accented by tart, citric notes and a bit of funk from the patis, while scallions added a zestiness to the fray. The runny egg was a welcomed addition, since the yolk contributed a luxuriousness to the otherwise unfussy dish.


Fresh Lumpia Salad [$10.00] | Brown Rice Crepe. Roasted Seasonal Vegetables. Black Kale. Shaved Cabbage. Peanut-Soy Vin.
The salad was a surprise standout. The veggies were bright, bitter, crunchy, and beautifully bound together by that creamy, nutty vinaigrette. Fried shallots added a crunch and savoriness to the mix, and the crêpe on top made for a hearty, satisfying complement. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


Lechon Kawali [$10.00 + $1.50] | Crispy Pork Belly. Yu Choy. Sweet Pickled Red Onions. Crispy Garlic. Jasmine Rice. + Soft Egg
Pork belly came out super crispy, with a nice balance of lean and fat. Pickled onions and yu choy sum worked effectively for contrast, and I certainly didn't mind that soft boiled egg, either.


Fried Lumpia [$5.50] | Traditional Filipino Pork Egg Rolls (6 pieces).
Lumpia were delightfully crisp, and displayed a classic, porky savoriness that just made sense with the included sweet 'n' sour condiment.


Bistek Fried Rice [$11.00] | Toyomansi Braised Beef Cheeks. Stewed Onions. Sunny Egg.
The fried rice was a special today, as well as another table favorite. The beef itself was rich and well-spiced, with a pervasive tanginess from the toyomansi and some lovely crispy bits for texture. The rice, meanwhile, was on point, and you certainly can't go too wrong with that sunny side up egg.


Drunken Pancit [$10.00 + $1.50] | Egg Noodles. Chinese Pork Sausage. Bagoong XO. Greens. Pickled Fresno Chiles. Crispy Shallots. + Soft Egg
Our final savory was a reworked version of pancit. I liked its building, growing heat, as well as the sweet, gingery notes that pervaded the dish. The use of bagoong added an "oomph" to things, and kale definitely worked as a counterpoint. The egg, finally, actually served to temper the flavors at play.


Coco Mama [$3.50] | Coconut Cream + Guava Sauce
Dessert duties were handled by these "empanadas" of sorts, made of blue cornmeal. Sadly, I really didn't taste much coconut, and overall the pastry was a touch dry.


Ube Bae [$3.50] | Creamy Ube + Condensed Milk
Our second dessert fared better thanks to the more assertive flavors of ube here. Note, also, that the paired sauces (guava vs. condensed milk) seem to have been switched.

Certainly, compared to what's available at dinner, the daytime menu's not nearly as ambitious. That being said, the place is still a worthwhile option for lunch, and if I worked in the area, I could see myself stopping by every so often.

Highland Park Brewery Chinatown
1220 N Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.878.9017
www.hpb.la
Sat 04/14/2018, 02:50p-04:40p





The Chinatown drinking scene just keeps getting hotter and hotter, this time with the debut of Highland Park Brewery in mid-March. Robert "Bob" Kunz started HPB back in '14 in the back of The Hermosillo, and since then, has garnered considerable attention for his brews. He and partner Ross Stephenson have apparently been working on this expansion since at least 2016, which will allow the brewery to realize an expanded barrel program for more funky and sour beers.



HPB's new home is located in a northern stretch of Chinatown, across the street from Nick's Cafe and the Los Angeles State Historic Park. The structure previously sported signage for "B.C. Food Inc" and the "Yan Ping Friendship Asso," but has been totally reworked by Raveled Studio (Mikkeller Bar, Birds & Bees), Knowhow Shop, and CLTVT.


~30 taps are available, split between 18 or so house brews, about six guest beers, as well as wine and whatnot. The draft list is quite dynamic, as during our time here, we saw the addition of America's Preference (a hoppy pilsner) and Saison Bernice (see below), while the cider was switched out for another.


In addition, you get the option of growler/crowler fills, as well as beer to-go. Food-wise, there's a small selection of brew-friendly eats created by Ken Concepcion (Now Serving, CUT) and executed by Michael Ruiz (Epic Taco Shop, Preux & Proper). Click for larger versions.


We began with the Good Smooth [$5/6oz], a hazy double IPA hopped with Citra, Ekuanot, and Vic Secret. It smelled pretty great, the hops really coming through with a mix of piney, juicy, citrusy, and slightly tropical notes. The palate was as thick and as smooth as expected, with a relatively subdued fruitiness and more of that hop bitterness coming through. Nicely balanced.


Chicken Tinga Tacos (2) [$9.00] | with queso fresco & avocado
Food-wise, up first were the tinga de pollo tacos, which were surprisingly delicious. I found the meat tender, juicy, and well-spiced, while pickled onions offered up a crunch and acidity. The creaminess of the avocados sort of tied everything together, and the tortillas were satisfying and substantial. Definitely our favorite food item that we tried.


Next to drink was the Athletic Susan [$6/6oz], a Lacto-, Pedio-, Saccharo-, and Brett-fermented farmhouse wheat beer aged in barrels that previously held another beer called Lazier Susan (a saison with Masumoto peaches and nectarines). Its nose showed off a light stone fruit sweetness, joined by a mild acidity. The taste was somewhat tart, with a bit of an earthy, funky character and traces of the advertised fruit. Enjoyable, but actually a touch uninteresting.


Created in collaboration with Long Beach's Beachwood Brewing, Why We're Here [$6/6oz] was a lambic-inspired sour ale with black limes. This one smelled super sour, with a citrusy, almost urinal cake-like element. The taste went in a similar direction: really tangy at first, astringent, with a lingering acidity and bitterness.


Elote Salad [$8.00] | little gem lettuce, buttermilk dressing, roasted corn, radish, jalapeno
This elote-inspired salad worked. The lettuce ate bright and crunchy, and was well accompanied by the heat in the dish, as well as those pickle-y onions and crumbles of cotija. The buttermilk dressing was key in bringing everything together, and I quite liked the crunchy, nutty bits here too.


The High Hopes [$5/9oz] was a hoppy pale ale made with Seville oranges. I got huge, appealing aromas of citrus, while the taste was similarly orange-centric, but with a bit of a bite. Refreshing, and perfect for the hot weather we were having that day.


Sausage Plate [$10.00] | Chorizo, Salsa Verde, Focaccia
Chorizo was tasty, a sort of gritty, rustic preparation with a delectable chili-fueled spice and savor. Onions and bell peppers worked as accompaniments, while the pickles added crunch and, more importantly, acidity, as did the zippy sauce on the side. However, since this was supposed to be a sausage plate, I really wanted more than one link. Some variety would be appreciated--more sausage less bread I say.


Here was the On Leaves [$5/6oz], a rustic saison fermented in oak with forest leaves (lemon balm, mugwort, eucalyptus, and more) added. The beer smelled rather juicy, with a tart, fruity character that I liked. Taste-wise, things were earthy, grainy, with light stone fruit and an herbaceous, floral quality that really came through on the back end. Nice!


Our sole dark beer, the Late Night [$6/6oz] was an imperial stout with Trystero Pacamara coffee and roasted coconut. The bouquet was all about fruity, bitter coffee and coconut all up in your face. On the palate, I got a wonderfully sweet, roasty coffee complexity at first, which then transitioned to a super long, lingering finish filled with true-to-life coconut. Easily one of the best non-barrel aged stouts I've had in recent times.


Crispy Cauliflower Tacos (2) [$8.00] | salsa roja, chipotle aioli, pickled onions (vegan option)
The cauliflower tacos weren't as good as the chicken versions, but I supposed that's to be expected. The veggies were nicely textured--meaty, with a light, crisp batter--but were underseasoned. Meanwhile, the salsa on top added a bit of smoke and spice, but lacked oomph, and we were actually forced to make use of the sauce from the sausage plate above.


Our last beer was a guest tap, the Sante Adairius Saison Bernice [$5/6oz], a sort of a prototypical example of the American saison style. Its nose was delightful: juicy, yeasty, funky, and with a definite stone fruit sweetness. In terms of taste, think tart and puckering at first blush, but with some Brett-y, earthy notes on the mid-palate and a finish filled with bright, refreshing fruit.

We were quite happy with how this place turned out, and it was great seeing how HPB's beers have progressed. Food-wise, things were pretty good, and given that there's a full kitchen here, hopefully the team will be able to evolve the menu in due time. I'm sure I'll be back.

Breva Restaurant at Hotel Figueroa
939 S Figueroa St, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213.660.3006
www.brevadtla.com
Fri 04/20/2018, 08:45p-11:45p





It's been a while since we caught up with Casey Lane. The last time was over at The Parish, the Chef's gastropub in Downtown, back in August 2012. Since then, he's cancelled his plans for Itri, an Italian joint that was supposed to take over the old Angeli Caffe, and ended up closing The Parish at the end of September 2013 (the space is now home to Preux & Proper). It hasn't been all bad news though. In July 2016, he launched Casa Apicii in New York's Greenwich Village. Lane also got tapped to open an Italian restaurant at the La Peer Hotel in West Hollywood, and the resultant Viale dei Romani debuted back in January. More importantly, he was hired to run the entire culinary program at the newly revamped Hotel Figueroa. Breva, a Basque- and Mediterranean-inspired eatery, dropped on February 19th, the first concept to open in the hotel. He's joined here by none other than Dushan Zaric (Employees Only, Macao Trading Company), who's his counterpart on the beverage side of things.



Upon entering, you'll find yourself in the lobby/lounge area, which, along with the entire property, has been redesigned by local firm Studio Collective (Westbound, Estrella, Chi Lin, Crossroads Kitchen). It's home to Bar Figueroa, where you can get drinks and a light meal.


Off to the side of the bar is the formal dining space for Breva.


As for the menu, it's mostly composed of smaller plates meant for sharing. Given that this is the main restaurant for the hotel, breakfast and lunch are also served. Drink-wise, you get a proper selection of cocktails, a few beers, and your requisite wines by the glass. Note that there's also a much larger wine list available if you're interested. Click for larger versions.


Mi Tierra [$14.00] | Del Maguey Mezcal, Tapatio Tequila Blanco, Green Chartreuse infused with Jalapeno, Lime, Agave
Given who was behind the bar program here, we of course made our way through several of the cocktails. First was this duo of agave spirits, a smoky, vegetal sort of concoction with a sweetness to it as well as a bit of heat on the back end.


Raw Oysters - Kumiai. Baja California. Mignonette. [$18.00]
Pacific oysters were fresh and clean, showing off a focused brine that matched up well with a squirt of lemon.


Ham & Cheese Croquettes [$12.00]
Croquetas were lovely, coming out creamy and crisp, with a gratifying filling of ham and cheese.


Old Harbor [$15.00] | San Miguel Cucumber, Cilantro Flower, Key Lime, Three Cents Aegean Tonic
The cocktail menu features several variations on gin tonic, so we sampled a couple of 'em. Our first showed off lots of cucumber, as well as an herbaceous element from the cilantro and a pervasive bitter quality. Definitely more robustly flavored that your usual G&T I'd say.


Grilled Oysters - Patriot Bay. Washington. Maitre'd Butter. [$18.00]
Meaty, grilled ostras conveyed plenty of buttery, herby notes that paired well with oysters' natural saltiness. Tasty, though the included bread was pretty ho-hum.


Tomato Gazpacho. Toast [$14.00]
A cup of gazpacho was definitely on the bright, tangy side, and had an almost salsa-like character. And of course, the toasty, smoky bread on the side made sense too.


Figueroa [$14.00] | Aylesbury Duck Vodka, Lemon, Fig, Mango Honey & Ginger Beer
The hotel's namesake cocktail wasn't shy about the ginger, making this a zesty, astringent drink, but one with a general fruity sweetness as well.


Snap Peas. Turnips. Horseradish [$10.00]
Peas were as snappy as advertised, with light, refreshing flavors and just a smidge of horseradish heat, which was probably a good thing. I was a fan of the radishes here as well.


Crispy Fried Potatoes. Romesco Aioli [$8.00]
Potatoes were hearty and homey, with an herbaceous accent from what I believe was sage. The chickpeas were a welcomed addition, and of course the tangy romesco worked as a pairing.


Grilled Asparagus. Pistachio Aillade [$18.00]
Firm, substantial stalks of asparagus made for our favorite veggie dish of the night. The key was its excellent use of smoke and char, and I certainly didn't mind the lemon and zippy aillade, either.


Tanqueray 10 [$15.00] | Lemon Leaf, Long Pepper, Seville Orange, Fever Tree Tonic
Our second gin and tonic wasn't quite as interesting. It was easy drinking though, and very citrusy, with a light floral quality. One of my dining companions even likened it to "boozy Sprite."


Blistered Shishito Peppers. Labneh. Cipollini. Shaved Mojama [$15.00]
Shishitos came out pleasantly smoky, their subdued heat well matched to the cool creaminess of yogurt while mojama imparted an extra punch to the dish.


Sauteed Pea Tendrils. Lemon Breadcrumbs [$9.00]
I found the pea tendrils bright and fresh, with a garlickiness that reminded us of the preparations you often find at Chinese restaurants.


Sweet Pea Fix [$14.00] | Spring 44 Gin, Yuste "La Kika" Manzanilla Sherry, Green Chartreuse, Lime, Sugar Snap Peas, Mint
This was probably the most intriguing of the cocktails. I found it heavy on the peas, with a vegetal sweetness giving way to Chartreuse and a nutty salinity from the sherry.


Roasted Mushrooms. Pedro Ximenez + Foie Gras [$15.00 + $20.00]
Mushrooms had a meaty, rubbery consistency, their woodsiness matched by the PX's decidedly sweet 'n' sour flavors. We also added foie gras to the dish, a classically seared preparation that actually worked surprisingly well as a complement.


Broccolini. Chili Vinegar. Harissa. Bone Marrow Breadcrumbs [$13.00]
Crunchy stalks of broccolini were bitter at first, but also had a palpable sweetness to them. The veggie took well to the heady flavors of chili and harissa, and one of my fellow diners was even reminded of Chili Cheese Fritos.


For our wine, we went with the rather well-known Tempranillo blend that is the 2005 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia [$88]. It had an appealing nose filled with rich, fresh red fruit and a touch of earth. The palate was thick, with a distinctly savory, almost meaty quality, some rusticity, and plenty of dry herbs bringing up the rear.


Sweetbreads. Honey Gastrique. Almond [$15.00]
Sweetbreads were well textured, though I found the honey here a bit much, and overall the dish ate sweet. Fortunately, the acidity of the onions helped, as did the bitterness of the salad on the side.



Flatiron. Pea Tendrils. Green Garlic Butter. Fries [$28.00]
The flat iron served as our first of two mains. The steak was a tad dry, though pretty tender, and certainly delivered in the taste department, while the tendrils worked for contrast. As for the fries, they were pretty much just what I wanted, coming out thin, crisp, and really nicely herby.


Nightingale [$14.00] | Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Campari, Lemon, Chamomile & Peppercorn
This was likely my favorite cocktail of the bunch. It had a creaminess on the palate, while flavors were anise-like, with a bitterness in the background from the Campari. My favorite part? The spice and crunch from the peppercorns.



Fried Chicken. Catalan Greens. Jamon & Jalapeno Potato Salad [$29.00]
According to our server, the fried chicken is one of the most popular items on the menu, and with good reason it seems. The bird was spot on, arriving juicy and tender, even the white meat, while flavors were robust without overwhelming the inherent taste of the meat. The skin was pretty great too, while the greens imparted an earthiness and a bitterness to things. The potato salad, meanwhile, was unlike any other I've had, though still very tasty with its copious amounts of cheese and pork.


With only three desserts offered, we just got 'em all. Click for a larger version.


Crostata [$9.00] | Rhubarb, Salted Pistachios, Cardamom Creme Fraiche
The fruit tart was nice enough, the tangy, sweet rhubarb having a back-and-forth with what I believe was rosemary. Pistachios provided some textural contrast, while the crème fraîche definitely conveyed a savoriness that I appreciated.


Ibiza Sunset [$14.00] | Avua Amburana Cachaca, Rutte Genever, Aperol, PX Sherry, Lime, Pineapple, Angostura
Our final cocktail was on the quaffable side. I got lots of berried sweetness, but balanced by the bitterness of Aperol and a bit of an earthiness.


Chocolate Cake [$10.00] | Curls & Pearls
The chocolate cake was as rich and dense and sweet as it looked, but fortunately was never cloying.


Mille Feuille [$9.00] | Phyllo, Mascarpone, Rose Jam
The Napoleon ended up being my favorite of the desserts. I loved the crispness of the puff pastry here, and how it all melded with the floral, fruity jam and creamy, lactic nature of the mascarpone.

We had a solid meal at Breva. I had no major issues with the food, and the drinks were quite good too, though at the same time, I'd like to see Lane and the team do more, since there's a lot to explore given this place's Basque inspiration. As for what's next, Veranda, the hotel's poolside Italian restaurant, opened on April 24th. More interesting is Bar Alta, Zaric's high-end cocktail bar that's slated for the mezzanine level--that one's definitely on my list to check out.

Kashiwa Japanese Cuisine
2201 E Willow St, Signal Hill, CA 90755
562.989.5615
Sat 04/21/2018, 06:50p-09:35p





If you're looking for legit sushi in the Long Beach area, there aren't really many viable options. We ended up at Kashiwa, which actually had been recommended to me previously by a number of people. The place opened in August 2011, and is the work of Chef/Owner Keiichi "Kei" Nakai and his wife Saki. Nakai hails from Hirakata, Osaka, and interestingly enough, was the man behind LBC's long-running Kinokawa, located just a few blocks north. He started that restaurant all the way back in 1977, but ended up selling it to a Yong Hoon Lee in 2003.


Kashiwa resides at the address that was formerly home to the middling Koyo Japanese Restaurant. It's a decently-sized space, and above we see that the sushi bar occupies one side of the room.


Menu-wise, Kashiwa features your typical selection of starters/sides, along with an extensive à la carte listing of nigiri, sashimi, and rolls. We were specifically here, however, for omakase, of which there are various levels (we went with the $80). There's not much to speak of in terms of beverages, so you'll probably want to bring your own. Corkage was a reasonable $10. Click for larger versions.


Speaking of beverages, we had a bottle of the 2015 de Garde Citrus Desay, a blend of tart oak-aged farmhouse ales with citrus zest added. This one smelled funky and super lemon-y, with a definite yeasty character. Its taste was sour, acidic, astringent, with more sharp lemon and barnyard all over the place, making for a rather bracing drinking experience.


To start, we were given a couple bites of sake nanbanzuke, or room temperature fried salmon in a soy-heavy, vinegary marinade.


1: Tako Su
The sunomono course comprised a refreshing salad of meaty, tender octopus, seaweed, and bright, crunchy cucumber, all bound together by a sweet-nutty dressing and a sprinkle of sesame seeds.


2: Maguro to Hamachi Sashimi
A couple types of sashimi were presented: supple cuts of mildly briny tuna; and two pieces of yellowtail that were definitely on the fattier side.


3: Ika Mentaiko Ae
Aemono duties were fulfilled by soft, snappy strands of squid paired with a spicy, saline, almost funky coating of mentaiko.


4: Tara Saikyo Yaki
The ubiquitous preparation of miso cod served as our yakimono dish. Think soft and buttery, with a pronounced sweetness and pleasant touch of char.


5: Age Kaki
Fried oysters made for a fitting agemono course. They were spot on, arriving juicy and briny on the inside, with a crispy, light batter. They really opened up with a squirt of lemon, and the zippy sauce on the side wasn't bad, either.


6: Chawanmushi
The chawanmushi was nice, a cozy sort of dish with a welcomed dashi-fueled savoriness as well as a multitude of textures from the shrimp, ginkgo, mushrooms, and kamaboko.


Above we see the evening's sushi selection. I will say that all the pieces really shouldn't have been presented simultaneously, especially since we were sitting at the bar.


7a: Shima Aji
Going from left to right, up first was striped jack, a relatively mild-tasting fish with a touch of spicy heat and a fruity, lingering brine that matched up well with the nigiri's cool, sticky rice.


7b: Tai
A bright, "crunchy" cut of snapper definitely had a sweetness that pervaded it, along with a palpable tanginess from the dab of yuzukosho on top.


7c: Hotate
Scallop was cool and creamy, its sweet brine working well with the yuzukosho once again.


7d: Otoro
Tuna belly made for the most luxurious bite of the night. I found it properly fatty and robustly flavored, with a sort of melt-in-your-mouth consistency.


7e: Aji
Spanish mackerel was superbly balanced, with a great counterpoint from the application of ginger and scallion.


7f: Hirame
Halibut was tasty, the restrained flavors of the fish complemented, but never overwhelmed by its accompaniments of negi and momiji oroshi.


7g: Toro Tataki
Chopped tuna was a treat, since it's not something I see all that often. The scallion really worked to even out the heft of the fish and shoyu, and the rice functioned as a further moderating element.


Kei-san served up a bonus course of shima aji kama (striped jack collar), a fatty and super flavorful cut with lots of umami going on.


8: Misoshiru
A classic miso soup was up next.


The orange was seemingly sweeter and juicier than most.


To close: a toasty, roasty cup of hojicha.

I'd been wanting to try out Kashiwa for a few years now, and I'm happy that I finally went. I think it's safe to say that it's the best sushi in the area (admittedly, there's not much competition), and pretty decently priced to boot. I'm actually a bit curious to try out more of Nakai's nigiri, so I may give that a go in the future.

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The lone orange above didn't quite satisfy in terms of dessert, so following the meal, we also enjoyed this Taro Snow Cake from 85°C Bakery Cafe.

Pizza Supreme Restaurant
19070 La Puente Rd, West Covina, CA 91792
626.965.1683
www.eatpizzasupreme.com
Sun 04/22/2018, 06:35p-09:25p





I'm well aware that this is somewhat of a random spot to visit. Quite frankly, the reason we ended up here was that we were looking for a BYOB-friendly restaurant to drink some beer, and one of my dining companions happened to know the owner and was thus able to secure free corkage. Said owner is one Steve Trinh (he also operates Dim Sum Co in Westminster), who bought the business in October 2017. The place was originally opened by John and Monica Lo all the way back in 1983.


The interior certainly looks the part, reminding me of the pizza joints that I used to frequent as a kid in the 80's.


As far as the menu goes, you have your various varieties of pizza, joined by sandwiches, salads, and more. For beverages, you'll probably want to go with beer, and according to Trinh, he's actively trying to improve the selection (as evinced by the inclusion of Mango Cart and 805).


Beer-wise, we got things going with the 2018 Modern Times Dinosaur World, a hazy double IPA hopped with Citra, Amarillo, and Mosaic. I detected a super appealing nose of juicy, sweet tropical fruit, with pineapple at the forefront. The taste was more bitter, more resinous, more bite-y, but I still got plenty of citrus character for balance. A nice start.


Supreme Pizza (Medium) [$15.89] | Pepperoni, Italian Sausage, Canadian Bacon, Salami, Onions, Black Olives, Bell Peppers, Mushrooms
We had to go with the restaurant's namesake pizza of course, and it didn't disappoint. In fact, I'd say that it was one of the tastiest supreme pizza's I've had. The combination of meats ate savory and salty, and was well matched by the veggies, making for a balanced, super satisfying flavor profile. The crust was notable too, coming out just thin enough, but still substantial, with a lovely crispness to it. Yum.


Created in collaboration with Florida's Civil Society Brewing, the 2018 Modern Times Super Compiler was an IPA made with Grenache grape must, dragon fruit, hibiscus, and guava, then hopped with Mosaic, Citra, and Huell Melon. Nice floral, fruit-forward aromas, but with hops underneath. The taste was heavy on the tropical fruit and grapes, though there was a bitterness and bright, almost tannic quality that made for some contrast.


Next came the 2018 Modern Times Tortuga, a Berliner Weisse with tangerines and soursops. The beer smelled of sweet malt and wheat, with fruit mixed in. Taste-wise, I found it sour, acidic, with a definite "wheat-y" character. Refreshing, though lacking in complexity.


Spaghetti + Meatballs [$5.99 + $1.00] | Spaghetti w/ our homemade meat and mushroom sauce. Served with garlic bread
Soft-ish strands of spaghetti made for a customary pairing with the copious amounts of tangy tomato sauce, while meatballs were pretty much what you'd expect. Nostalgic.


The 2015 Cantillon Cuvée Saint-Gilloise was a two-year-old lambic that was dry-hopped and refermented in the bottle. Wonderfully intense, delightful bouquet filled with stone fruit and funk. This led to a palate bursting with lemon and a hoppy astringency, with more barnyard and some graininess. Very nice.


Our first dark beer was the 2017 Bottle Logic Backwards Compatibility, an imperial stout aged in ruby port barrels and finished with cacao nibs and both sweet and tart cherries. Rich, chocolate-y nose with tart fruit and slight soy sauce. The palate was smooth, and again heavy on the chocolate, which was joined by a sweet-n-sour element from the cherries as well as oak, while the finish was all about port wine and cocoa. Better than I expected.


Garlic Chicken Deluxe Pizza (Medium) [$15.89] | Chicken, Fresh Garlic, Onions, Mushrooms
Our second pizza met the mark as well. The chicken itself was pretty tasty, but the key here was how delightfully garlicky the pie was. Great use of the onions for contrast, too.


The 2018 Modern Times Moonsilver was a Berliner Weisse with strawberry, kiwi, and guava added. Huge strawberry and funk on the nose led to some refreshingly tart, grainy flavors, but again with massive strawberry in yo' face. Quite tasty, though the kiwi and guava were overshadowed.


Next was the 2015 Goose Island Bourbon County Brand Barleywine Ale, a barley wine aged in third-use bourbon barrels. I detected lots of dark fruit and malty, chocolate notes in the aroma. The taste was quite oaky at first, with flavors of caramel, prunes, bourbon, and nuts coming in later.


You can also get your pizza on a French bread base. I didn't prefer it though, as I found the standard pizza crust much more gratifying.


The 2018 Modern Times Wizard & Graf: Chapter Two was something a bit different, a saison brewed with both cider and culinary apples, aged in a clay amphora and French oak, created in collaboration with Shacksbury Cider in Vermont. I got a super floral, fruity bouquet intertwined with funk and sourness. The taste was super bright, and had a base of barnyard, a touch of stone, and layers of sweet-tart apple, making for a crisp, delicious beer-cider hybrid.


Our third IPA was the 2018 Modern Times Outside Worlds, a double with Citra, Simcoe, Centennial, and Idaho 7 hops. This one smelled bright and piney, with a good amount of juiciness to boot. Its taste was sweet and malty, with some tropical fruit, a soft hop bite, and a lingering bitterness.


Seafood Pizza (Medium) [$15.89] | Shrimp plus one topping of your choice
We felt compelled to order the seafood pizza--since you don't see shrimp all that often--and ended up going half-n-half with the additional topping. The garlic did a great job complementing the brininess of the shrimp, but even better was the chorizo with its sharp, piquant spice.


The oldest beer of the bunch was the 2010 De Dolle Stille Nacht Reserva, a Belgian golden ale aged for 25 months in Bordeaux casks. Its nose was boozy, and heavy on the barrel, with sweet fruit in the background. Taste-wise, I got more booziness, but also a mature, nutty, oxidative quality joined by an almost candied fruitiness.


The 2014 Bullfrog Le Roar Grrrz Kriek was a kriek-style ale aged with cherries and refermented with Belgian candi sugar. It smelled decidedly funky, earthy, with very little fruit. In terms of taste, I got a bit of sweet spice from the advertised cherry, but I wanted more, while the funkiness was also subdued.



We were given a taste of the off-menu calzone that's currently in the works. I found it cheesy as hell, with a classic pairing of pepperoni that made for a very familiar eating experience.


Next came a Scottish stout, the Cairngorm Black Gold. Appealing nose of chocolate, roast, and nuts. The palate was on the lighter, smoother side, and displayed more nuts, malt, light fruit, minerals, and caramel, with a touch of astringency.


On the other hand, the 2016 Port Churchill's Finest Hour, an imperial stout aged in oak bourbon barrels, was much more assertive. It smelled of chocolate, tart fruit, and barrel, while the taste highlighted oak, bourbon, cocoa, and spice.


Cheesesteak Pizza (Large) [$21.49] | Sliced Steak, Bell Peppers, Onions, Mushrooms, Cheese Sauce
The restaurant ended up gifting us this last pizza. It was as cheesy and beefy as you'd expect, with a welcomed counterpoint from the peppers and onions. Actually a surprisingly good rendition of a cheese steak in pizza form.


Our penultimate beer was the 2018 Modern Times Pescespada, a Brett'd, Lacto'd, Saccharo'd ale brewed with pineapple, coconut, mango, and HBC 462 hops that was created in collabo with San Francisco's Almanac Beer Company. It displayed a wonderfully floral aroma laced with coconut and tart fruit. Flavors were tropical and heavy on the coconut, and I got plenty of juicy mango and sourness too, making for a fun, refreshing drink. The beer was actually designed as an homage to tiki cocktails, and it worked quite well in that regard.


We ended with a BBA imperial stout, the 2018 Modern Times Modem Tones Aged in Bourbon Barrels with Vanilla. The beer smelled strongly of rich vanilla, cocoa, and dark fruit. On the tongue, I got massive amounts of fragrant vanilla balanced by oak, bourbon, and chocolate, while the finish had more long-lasting vanilla. A worthy beer to end the evening.

Well this was a fun meal, not surprisingly. Beers aside, the pizzas were actually pretty great, no doubt some of the best "non-fancy" pies I've had, and I'd definitely frequent this place if I lived nearby. Pizza Supreme's an old school sort of pizza parlor, and a mighty fine one at that.