Sushi Ginza Onodera (West Hollywood, CA)

November 16, 2018, 8:35 pm

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Sushi Ginza Onodera Los Angeles
609 La Cienega Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.433.4817
www.onodera-group.com/sushi-la
Fri 11/16/2018, 08:35p-11:40p





The Los Angeles sushi scene got a big boost with the launch of Ginza Onodera in December 2016. The edomae-style spot is part of the Onodera Group, a family of Japanese restaurants sporting various concepts in various cities: Tokyo-Ginza (sushi, teppanyaki, tempura), Shanghai (sushi, teppanyaki, tempura), Honolulu (sushi, teppanyaki), New York (sushi), Paris (teppanyaki), London (varied). There used to be a sushi outpost in Hong Kong as well, but it's since closed, and the company even runs a sushi academy. Onodera Group, meanwhile, is part of the larger LEOC, which was founded in 1983 and mainly focuses on the institutional catering market. The business is run by Hiroshi Onodera (the founder's son), and is actually affiliated with the Mitsubishi family of companies as well as Sodexo (the French food services giant), interestingly enough.

In any case, the kitchen here in LA is run by Executive Chef Yohei Matsuki, who apparently spent 13 years working at a sushi-ya at Tsukiji fish market before joining the Ginza Onodera team in both Shanghai and NYC. Our itamae tonight, however, was Shunpei Takizawa, who works on Matsuki's far-left and also spent time at the NYC location. There are two seatings a night--6:00 and 8:30--while the cost of the meal is set at $300, which includes service but not tax. This gets you a roughly two dozen-course meal consisting of a variety of zensai followed of course by multiple servings of nigiri.


Ginza Onodera resides in a newly-constructed building that also houses E.P. & L.P., basically right across the street from Rosaliné. The interior is sparse, and consists mainly of a 16-seater sushi bar constructed from 200-year-old Japanese cypress (hinoki) sourced from Mie Prefecture.


There's not much to say regarding the menu: it's $300, end of story. Drink-wise, you'll find a pricey selection of sakes, a small but also pricey wine list, a handful of beers, and a couple shochus. Corkage is advertised at $50 a bottle. Click for larger versions.

The corkage situation, unfortunately, wasn't so simple. In fact it was off-putting, and ended up marring our experience. The problem was that they don't allow you to bring bottles that are on their list, regardless of vintage, which goes against everything we'd encountered at any restaurant before (the same wine can vary greatly in quality and price depending on the vintage). We had a bottle of Cristal that was a different year than the one on the wine list, and, after some back-and-forth, the staff decided to charge us a $100/bottle corkage fee, which we refused. The whole situation was exacerbated by the ridiculous pricing of their wine list, which often hovers around 4x retail (that $740 bottle of Cristal on the list can be purchased for $190). Their sake list is only slightly less offensive. Case in point: the Dassai Beyond sold here at an insulting $1600 is literally half the price at Manpuku (where I'd dined just days earlier).


1: Buri Toro
The corkage quarrel made for an uneasy start to the meal, but fortunately these two cuts of yellowtail belly helped smooth things over. The fish was every bit as fatty as your standard toro, but with a more pronounced brine and a rich, soy-fueled depth accented by the pungent heat of karashi on the finish.


2: Uni Chawanmushi
Our chawanmushi course was a cozy one, and featured a slippery egg custard doused with plenty of umami and enhanced by the saline sweetness of Hokkaido uni. My favorite part? The pops of salt bringing up the rear, courtesy of all that Italian caviar.


3: Kue Shabu-Shabu
Here we had something I rarely see on menus in LA: kelp grouper, prepared shabu-shabu style (or poached). The fish was delightfully textured, coming out supple, substantial, with a definite "rareness" to it. The tartness of the paired ponzu was a great match, as was the acidity, spice, and brine of all the other elements on the plate.


4: Tako Ashi
These were tender slices of hojicha-roasted octopus. I loved the sheer savoriness of the legs, and you could really taste the toastiness of the tea. Excellent counterpoint from the yuzukosho, too.


We ended up being able to open only a single bottle of wine, the 2006 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne, and paid the standard $50 for the privilege. It had very appealing aromas of vibrant yellow fruit and honey, alongside a slight tinge of bread. The nose, though, belied the palate, which was dry and toasty and mineral-forward, with far less fruit character, a bit of booziness, and a smidge of citrus zest on the close. This one still has plenty of years to go.


5: Tsubugai
This was another rarity: irizake-marinated whelk. The roasted sake really made itself known at first, but this quickly led to the unmistakable oceany funk of the sea snail along with a well-placed heat from the wasabi. One of my dining companions stated that this was the best tsubugai he'd ever had, and I'm inclined to agree with him.


6: Shirako
This odd-looking fellow was cod milt. It had a robustly savory, smoky, charred taste that matched perfectly with its creamy, almost "eggy" insides. It was pretty wonderful, and probably the best soft roe I've experienced thus far in all my years.


7: Kegani
Hokkaido hairy crab was super, super sweet, yet delicate at the same time, and took on the flavors of kanimiso (a heady condiment made from the innards of the crab) and yuzu zest beautifully.


8: Amadai Tempura
Tilefish was served in lightly battered tempura form. The interaction between the lemon and salt worked effortlessly over the savoriness of the fish, all while the mintiness of shiso came through on the finish. Very nice.


9: Tairagai
The pen-shell clam was another standout. I found the meat almost "juicy," with a healthy dosing of salt, char, and spice, all counteracted by the umami notes of its seaweed wrapper. A marvelous little bite.


10: Ankimo
Massive chunks of monkfish liver were braised in red wine, which is apparently a signature preparation of the restaurant's. Texturally, it was super creamy and definitely softer than usual--an almost tofu-like consistency I'll say. Flavors, meanwhile, were deep and oceany, but joined by a marked sweetness and fruitiness, which I'm guessing comes from the wine.


With the wine dispensed with, we went for a bottle of daiginjo sake, the Tedorigawa "Ikina Onna", Ishikawa [$128]. The nose on this one was something else, giving up massive notes of banana all over the place. The palate I found thick, smooth, round, with more sweet fruit (melon?) and rice backed by some alcoholic heat.


11: Kinmedai Kobujime
Our parade of sushi began with one of my favorites: golden eye snapper. It had a delightfully meaty bite, and the brush of soy made total sense with the lingering umami flavors from the fish's kelp treatment. I also appreciated the temperature contrast from the somewhat warm, semi-loose, not-that-sticky rice, as well as the counterpoint from the shari's slight acidic, sour twang.


12: Aji
Here was line-fished mackerel from Hyogo Prefecture's Awaji Island. The fish was slicker, oilier than usual, but also more clean-tasting, and had its signature brine going great with that bit of ginger up top.


13: Kuromaguro-Zuke
11-day aged bluefin from Boston really took on the richness and savoriness of its soy marinade, so the rice was absolutely crucial for balance.


14: Ikura
Salmon roe was as smoky and salty as we expected, and went great with its accompaniment of yuzu zest.


15: Kasugo Dai
Young sea bream was given a kohada-style vinegar treatment. The result was a tender neta, one with a super intense sweetness finishing with a palpable, but finessed brine.


16: Nodoguro
Also known as akamutsu, the blackthroat seaperch was another favorite. It had a lush, creamy consistency, while flavors were wonderfully smoky and savory, yet refined and well-balanced by the rice.


Next to drink was the Kagua Blanc [$18], a Belgian-style golden ale with yuzu and sansho. It had loads of citrus on the nose, along with some tea-like aromatics. The taste was again citrusy and spicy and yeasty, and quite true to its Belgian inspiration.


17: Kuruma Ebi
Meaty, snappy tiger shrimp from Kagoshima displayed an almost corn-like sweetness, one evened out by the soy and wasabi.


18: Sanma Maki
Mackerel pike made for an excellent makizushi filling, its super oily, smoky savor working great alongside the tartness of myoga and the brightness of shiso.


19: Miso Shiru
The requisite miso soup was headier than usual, with more pronounced umami notes and a particularly intense sweetness.


20: Hokkaido Bafun Ensui Uni
Salt water-stored sea urchin from Hokkaido ate super sweet and creamy, and had a somewhat medicinal finish that linked up well with the rice.


21: Chutoro
Tuna belly was a perfect marriage of fish, fat, and soy, all moderated by the rice. Wonderfully balanced, and one of the richest-tasting chutoros I've had for sure.


A complimentary serving of hojicha signaled that the meal was coming to an end.


22: Anago
Sea eel from Tsushima Island conveyed a restrained sweetness and a nearly melt-in-your-mouth consistency.


23: Kamatoro
Tuna cheek/collar was a treat, and something you really don't see all that often. I found it perhaps the sweetest of all the fish we had tonight, as well as the fattiest. A luxurious, over-the-top cut that made for a fitting conclusion.


24: Tamago
Made with shrimp and yam, a castella-style tamago had a relatively airy consistency, and ate sweet and briny.


25: Matcha Blancmange
Dessert comprised a blanc-manger, one with a coconut-y character that went quite well with the bitterness of the matcha sauce, all while the black bean contributed a sugary exclamation point to it all.

The cooking at Ginza Onodera, I have to say, was excellent--some of the best sushi in the Southland no doubt. Ingredients were top-notch, and I really have trouble finding much fault at all with the food. As good as the fish was, perhaps the most notable thing here was the rice. I'm told that they use lots of two year-aged akazu (red vinegar) in the shari-making process, which gives the rice a noticeable brownish tint. It also gives it a stronger, sweet-n-sour sort of flavor profile that caught my attention more than most. The rice also seemed slightly more "al dente" than many other examples, which I also didn't mind. My only concern was the inhospitable corkage policy mentioned above and the way it was handled, which left a bad taste in my mouth and would give me pause about returning.

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KyungBokKung (Buena Park, CA)

December 5, 2018, 7:50 pm

≫ Next: Superfine Pizza (Los Angeles, CA)

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Kyung Bok Kung Korean BBQ Restaurant
7801 Beach Blvd, Buena Park, CA 90620
714.888.4948
www.kyungbokkungusa.com
Wed 12/05/2018, 07:50p-10:10p





Although K-town remains the de facto epicenter of Korean dining in Southern California, the city of Buena Park is definitely making inroads, as evinced by the debut of KyungBokKung. Launched in mid-August, it is, as far as I know, the fanciest Korean restaurant to open in recent times. Named after Gyeongbokgung, a key royal palace built during the Joseon era, KyungBokKung offers diners high-end Korean BBQ, and more interestingly, hanjeongsik, a style of multi-course dining you don't see very often around these parts. The restaurant occupies a 6,800ft² building that was previously home to KBBQ-slash-sushi joint Sagan (2005-2014) and Spoons California Grill & Bar (1985-2004), and which was originally constructed as a Red Lobster back in 1975. Thus, it is not a new construction, as some people seem to believe. Total dining area is around 3,400ft², and over 180 guests can be accommodated.

The restaurant is part of Entas America, an entity that also operates Sapporo Sushi & Grill up the street (opened March 2015). That entity, meanwhile, is owned by Entas Group, a Korean-based company that was established in 1991 with the first KyungBokKung. Entas currently operates 19 brands with over 100 locations in Korea (and one in Shanghai), and they've even expanded into complementary businesses such as meat processing, distribution, and duty free shops.



The menu reads (and is priced) fairly similarly to that of other high-end gogi-gui places, but with the addition of the aforementioned han-jeongsik selections. That's what we were here for, and we ended up going with the "Premium" option at $75 a head. Click for larger versions.


To drink, you get a small wine list, Korean liquors and beers, sake, and a handful of spirits. Corkage is a reasonable $20 per bottle, or $50 if you're thinking hard liquor. Click for larger versions.


We had couple bottles, and first was the 2002 Lanson Champagne Brut Noble Cuvée de Lanson. The wine smelled of rich apple intermixed with lemon and light brioche. On the palate I got pronounced toast, joined by more of that robust fruit, minerals, and a touch of oxidation. I think this one still has more to show off as it matures.



1: Porridge & Water Kimchi / Juggwa Dongchimi
We commenced with a small serving of jeonbok-juk, a homey abalone rice porridge that had a bit more depth than usual, along with a welcomed peppery kick on the back end. Along with it came a refreshing bowl of dongchimi with its super crunchy chunks of mu radish.


2: Broiled Sliced Beef with Vegetables / Roseupyeonchae
Here we see the restaurant's version of roseupyeonchae (a dish of veggies wrapped in beef). Think sweet and tangy and crunchy, but all moderated by the relative heft of the meat.



3: Tomato Seafood Salad / Tongtomato Haemul Saelleodeu
Next were two salads. The first featured seafood in an acidic-yet-savory broth, topped with a bevy of light, bright veggies. The second was more interesting thanks to its crab-stuffed tomato, which actually did a pretty good job marrying the sweetness of the crustacean with the tartness of the berry. Overall, these two plates functioned as a foil to some of the heavier flavors on the table.


4: Korean Beef Tartare / Yukhoe
The yukhoe was on point. It had a great balance of savoriness and sweetness--especially with the juicy crunch of the bae--and I was a fan of the creeping gochujang spice on the back end.


5: Premium Assorted Sashimi / Teugseon Modeumhoe
Our sashimi course was certainly fancily-presented, and was composed of five selections. Clockwise from top-left we had:

• Seared Yellowtail Belly - Heavy on the smoke and fat, this one really needed to be offset by the wasabi.
• Salmon - Fatty and luscious, and nice with a dab of soy.
• Red Snapper - I found this soft and creamy and mild; it really perked up with a bit of wasabi.
• Sea Bass - Very light and delicate. Curiously, the soy seemed to draw out a metallic flavor in the fish.
• Yellowtail - A pretty prototypical presentation, this was fatty as expected, with a persistent brine as well.

6: Gujeolpan
KyungBokKung's gujeolpan arrived on a surprisingly weighty metal gujeolpan. Clockwise from left, items included (I think): dried anchovies (myeolchi-bokkeum), carrots (danggeun namul), soybean sprouts (kongnamul), cucumbers (oi), beef (bulgogi), shrimp (saeu), egg strips (al-gomyeong), and scallion (pa). The key was to wrap everything up with the included pancake, which made for an array of textures and tastes that melded well.


7: Yukjeon
The yukjeon were satisfying in a straightforward manner, and displayed a pronounced beefiness that paired well with that tangy dip on the side.


8: White Kimchi / Bae Baeggimchi
A rolled presentation of baek-kimchi ate crunchy and clean, with a not unwelcomed undercurrent of sweetness.


9: Braised Beef Short Ribs with Abalone / Jeonbog Galbijjim
Our main course was the galbi-jjim, which definitely hit the mark. The ribs arrived as tender as I wanted, but still substantial, while taste-wise I found 'em super beefy, with a great balance of savory and sweet flavors. The use of jeonbok, meanwhile, made for some textural contrast and an additional point of interest in the dish. I didn't need the danhobak in there, but didn't mind it either.


The evening's second bottle was the 2002 Mailly Champagne Grand Cru Exception Blanche, a blanc de blancs expression. The nose conveyed fresh bread alongside rich pome fruit and a slight astringency. Taste-wise, the wine showed off more of the same in a surprisingly soft, smooth package that could perhaps use a bit more vibrancy to it.


10: Grilled Fresh Water Eel / Minmuljangeo Gui
Grilled eel was dressed in a thick, sweet-savory sauce that made for a natural accompaniment for the fish. My favorite thing here were actually the stalks of asparagus underneath, which imparted an offsetting crunch and bitterness.


11: Grilled Scallops (Fried Fish) / Gwanjagui Yoli
The menu advertised "grilled scallops," but this obviously wasn't that (as the menu ostensibly changes seasonally). That being said, the fish worked it out, coming out properly crunchy, its mild taste supplemented by the sweet 'n' spicy nature of that sauce. I appreciated the contrast provided by all that greenery up top, too.


12: Boiled Clam Soup / Baeghab Nabetang
I'm not sure if the soup had the advertised clam, but I quite enjoyed it nevertheless. The crab imparted a cozy brine, and I was quite fond of the soup's growing heat as well.



13: Side Dish Vegetables / Gyeotdeulim Yachae
Next we were served what our server described as "nurungji-fermented kimchi boiled in stock." I don't think I'd ever had anything quite like this before, as it tasted extra funky, with a nutty, almost "muddy" quality to it. Along with the kimchi came a romaine lettuce salad, which was simple enough, and had some pleasant spicy and sesame notes.






14: Ban-sang / Gaeinsigsa Bansang
Bansang basically refers to a main dish accompanied by rice and banchan, and tonight we were served doenjang-jjigae to close out our meal. The soybean paste stew hit the spot, and had seemingly more potency than usual.


15: Dessert / Husig
Dessert comprised a glass of sujeonggwa, a sweet-n-spicy cinnamon punch. Note the pine nuts tossed in there.

I was generally satisfied with the evening's dinner. It's pretty rare to encounter han jeongsik-style food at restaurants these days, so I'm glad that KyungBokKung is attempting it. We enjoyed a wide variety of dishes, some of which are not often seen, and the meal seemed like a good value too--we couldn't even finish all the food and ended up taking some home. Overall, given the level of the meal tonight, I'm actually curious about going back and trying the barbeque here.

Superfine Pizza (Los Angeles, CA)

December 9, 2018, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Free Play (Los Angeles, CA)

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Superfine Pizza
1101 San Pedro St, Los Angeles, CA 90015
323.698.5677
www.superfinepizza.com
Sun 12/09/2018, 08:00p-09:30p





A desire for a quick 'n' easy Downtown dinner prior to a movie at L.A. Live made for a good excuse to check out the Fashion District's Superfine Pizza, the newest project from Chef Steve Samson. The place opened in the middle of July, and takes over the old Bernie's Sandwich Stand space at City Market South, a stone's throw from Rossoblu. Stylistically, Samson seems to blend the Neapolitan aesthetic he's known for with some decidedly New York qualities, and bakes the thin-crusted pizzas in electric ovens.


The menu's straightforward enough, and features a variety of pizzas available by the slice or by the (18") pie. There's also salad, if you must, while delivery is apparently offered via Caviar, Postmates, and Uber Eats. Click for a larger version.


Simply Cheese [$3.00/slice] | Tomato, Cheese
We began with the most basic of the pizzas. What stood out to me most was the crust, which I found thin and crisp throughout, but still a bit chewy. There was also a touch of smoke and bitterness that I appreciated as well. On top of that, the sweet-tangy tomato sauce was very apparent, and did a nice job offsetting the potency of the cheese.


Pepperoni [$4.00/slice] | Tomato, Cheese, Pepperoni
Our second pizza showed off all the qualities of the slice above, but with the addition of some delectably spicy 'n' savory, charred-crispy rounds of pepperoni.


Beer is a natural pairing with pizza, and our first was the New Glarus R&D Vintage 2015, an American-style geuze comprising spontaneously-fermented sour ales brewed in 2012 and 2014, then bottled in 2015. The nose here was filled with sweet fruit commingled with farmyard funk. Taste-wise, I got a pleasant tartness and citric character along with a wonderfully earthy, barnyard element and a trace of oak. Dry and well balanced.


Es-Ca-Role [$4.00/slice] | Escarole, Red Onion, Salt-Cured Olives, Chilies, Mozzarella, Smoked Provolone
The escarole was the star of the show on this slice, which ate bitter and salty, with a palpable richness and smoke from the provolone. There was also this smidge of heat that I liked, while I would've preferred even more red onion for contrast.


Veganissima [$3.00/slice] | Tomato, Garlic, Rapini, Capers, Oregano, Chilies, Mint, Parsley, Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Superfine's vegan pizza was a surprise standout. The hero here was that full-flavored rapini, which meshed seamlessly with all the other ingredients at play. I was especially appreciative of the strong garlickiness on the finish.


The 2018 Bottle Logic Roll for Initiative was a cinnamon roll-inspired bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout finished with Madagascar vanilla and cassia bark. The beer smelled strongly of chocolate-y malt laced with cinnamon; there was less vanilla than anticipated. Its palate was thick and boozy, showcasing more chocolate, vanilla, oak, bourbon, and lots of the advertised cassia on the back end.


Spinach on White [$4.00/slice] | Four Cheeses, Spinach
Here, the marriage of bright, bitter spinach and a lush, creamy combination of cheeses really worked, with the crust again serving as a moderating force.


Salami Honey [$4.00/slice] | Spicy Salami, Grana Padano, Provolone, Buckwheat Honey
I was afraid that this would be overly sugary, but it wasn't. Instead, the honey just plain made sense with the salami, forming a sweet-savory interplay that I found pretty gratifying.


With all six by-the-slice options exhausted, we opted to go half-and-half on a whole pie.


Our final beer was the 2015 Wicked Weed Golden Angel, a sour ale aged eight months in red wine barrels with apricots, then aged another month in stainless steel with even more apricots. The resulting brew smelled of sweet, rich stone fruit with a touch of funk--very appealing. On the palate, I got more vibrant, true-to-life apricot flavor evened out by a lovely sourness and a hint of oak.


Eggplant Special [$25.00/pie] | Eggplant, Crushed Tomatoes, Basil, Mozzarella, Ricotta, Grana Padano
The eggplant was the focal point here, its richness and smoke pairing well with the weight of the three cheeses while the tomato imparted a necessary tartness. I could've used a bit more basil though.


Queen Margherita [$23.00/pie] | Fresh Mozzarella, Tomato, Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
We ended with a sort of reworked Margherita. What stood out was the boldness of the tomato, and how that was contrasted by the bitterness inherent in the crust, all while the basil served as a fragrant accent piece.

It's rare that I go to a walk-up, by-the-slice pizza joint, but I'm glad I made the effort tonight. Samson's pies have this sort of old school-new school mash-up going on, and the results are pretty tasty. Superfine seems like a replicable concept, so I'm curious whether or not we'll see more locations springing up in the future--I wouldn't mind it.

Free Play (Los Angeles, CA)

December 20, 2018, 7:30 pm

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FreePlay DTLA at The Fields LA
3939 S Figueroa St, Los Angeles, CA 90037
213.419.9481
www.freeplaydtla.com
Thu 12/20/2018, 07:30p-10:00p





Exposition Park's newly-constructed Banc of California Stadium debuted on April 18th this year, hosting a game between the Los Angeles Football Club and the Seattle Sounders (LAFC won, 1-0). The adjacent Fields LA food hall, meanwhile, bowed in August, and is home to a number of vendors including Tim Hollingsworth's fried chicken concept, C.J. Boyd's. That, however, was only the tip of the iceberg for the Otium Chef. His second, much larger project Free Play opened on October 26th on the second floor of The Fields. It's a casual, expansive, barcade-ish eatery with a kitchen run by Chef de Cuisine Lynne Tolentino, whom we last saw over at Partido in Highland Park.




Free Play occupies a pretty massive space that has room for nearly 500 guests. The restaurant is divided into the main dining/bar area (up to 275 seated), The Arcade (100 standing), and The Den (a living room-like environment accommodating 40 standing). There's also a patio for up to 50 guests, as well as a 14-seater Chef's Table located right in the kitchen. Games include vintage (and not-so-vintage) arcade uprights, foosball, pinball, pool, shuffleboard, and board games.


As for the menu, you get updated American bar fare with a dash of multicultural influence. Drink-wise, there are 15 beers on tap and a few more in cans/bottles, a brief wine list, and a small array of cocktails joined by shandies and shooters (the work of Julian Cox and Nick Meyer, apparently). Corkage was a not-too-bad $25, and we were charged only once.


Pork Rinds [$7.00]
The pork rinds were right on the money: airy, crunchy, well-spiced, and with a lovely sour finish.


Michelada [$9.00] | House Clamato. Smoked Salt. Citrus. Mexican Lager.
I'm actually not a huge michelada fan, but this was more palatable than most I've had. I found it light and refreshing, with a restrained tomato character finished by a punch of spice and salt. Citrus, meanwhile, served as an effective counterpoint.


French Fries [$5.00]
Fries were almost McDonald's-esque in nature (which isn't necessarily a bad thing), though somewhat crispier I'd say.


Melon Dollar Baby [$10.00] | Gin. Sake. Watermelon. Hibiscus. Lime
This rose-hued cocktail displayed juicy, fragrant watermelon at first while the sweet, floral nature of the hibiscus came in later, joined by just a trace of alcoholic heat.


Deviled Eggs [$6.00]
Regular readers will know that I'm quite the deviled egg slut, and I must say that the ones we had tonight were superb. The key was the pickle-y tartness present, and how that played with the spices and the inherently lush, creamy nature of the eggs.


Stiegl Rock [$9.00] | Bourbon. Citrus. Honey. Grapefruit Beer.
This Radler riff definitely went in a bracing, astringent direction, and came loaded with plenty of citrus and spice.


Fried Pickles [$7.00]
Pickles were tasty, and actually reminded me of a tangier version of the fried zucchini at Carl's Jr. Accompanying them, meanwhile, was what seemed like a blue cheese-ranch dip.


Paloma [$10.00] | Tequila + Mezcal. Grapefruit. Lime. Agave. Soda. Salt.
The standard Paloma cocktail was given a boost by the incorporation of mezcal, which gave the drink a woodier, smokier quality to go along with its classically refreshing citrus notes. There was a definite spiciness on the finish that I didn't mind, either.


Frito Pie [$11.00] | Chili, Cheese, Pickled Fresnos, Sour Cream
Free Play's gourmet-trashy take on Frito pie worked it out. The chili stood out to me, and just made sense with all the other toppings, while the salty, crunchy chips served as an appropriate base.


El Trafico Old Fashioned [$10.00] | Bourbon + Mezcal. Roasted Pineapple. Barrel-Aged Bitters.
This version of the most classic of cocktails had a nose filled with citrusy spice and heat. In terms of taste, the smokiness of the mezcal definitely came through, and was complemented by the sweetness of that pineapple.


Bar Nuts w/ bacon [$4.00 + $1.00]
Nuts were well spiced, but I really didn't get much from the bacon.


Macho Man Shandy Savage [$9.00] | Mezcal. Chipotle Pepper. Yellow Peach. Pilsner. Slim Jim.
If we're talking about punny drink names, this was probably one of the best I've heard. It tasted pretty good, too, with loads of sweet citrus commingled with contrasting notes of bitterness and spice. Unfortunately, the advertised Slim Jim was missing, as apparently the bar had run out of the mechanically separated meat snacks.


Taco Salad [$14.00] | Grilled Tri-Tip, Beans, Cotija Cheese, Cilantro, Salsa Roja
Here we have perhaps the most whimsically-presented salad I'd ever seen, one that came in the form of a super-sized taco (measuring a good 16 inches from end-to-end I'd wager). I found it heavy on the beans, and while I did enjoy the bright crunch of the lettuce and the crispness of the taco shell, I really wanted more acidity and more heat in the dish.


With the cocktails all drunk up, we moved on to beer, and first was the 2016 Beachwood Blendery Propagation Series: No. 256, a saison-style ale aged in oak barrels with Brettanomyces and long peppercorn. It had a nose of subdued sourness and funk commixed with citrus. The palate I found tart, spicy, and earthy, with juicy stone fruit but only a smidgen of long pepper. Quite nice.


Flat Iron Steak [$21.00] | Grilled Flat Iron Steak with Charred Onions
Unfortunately, things went awry with the steak. The first flat iron received was overcooked (we requested med-rare but it was closer to well), and had to be sent back. The kitchen's second attempt was much better in terms of temperature, but was far too salty/savory (jarringly so), though the onions did help somewhat in that regard.


Cauliflower [$10.00] | Roasted cauliflower with Coconut, Lime, and Toasted Peanuts
The cauliflower also disappointed. My first issue was that the vegetable was way too soft, on the borderline of becoming mushy in fact. If that wasn't enough, flavor-wise the dish was muddled, overly sweet, and lacking in acidity.


Above we see the 2018 Modern Times Analog, a saison brewed with Riesling grape must and fermented for two months in a clay amphora with Brett, Lacto, and Saccharo. Expressive nose filled with sour, yeasty notes and fruity funk. On the palate, I got some nice wine-y qualities along with a marked minerality, more barnyard, and lots of juicy stone fruit.


Pork Shank [$21.00] | Braised Pork Shank with Mashed Potatoes and Love Sauce
An impressive looking shank was falling-part tender, its dark, rich flavors boosted by a healthy dose of sweet spice while the taters helped moderate everything.


Charred Broccolini [$10.00] | Toasted Breadcrumbs, Garlic, Pecorino Cheese, Olive Oil and Red Chili Flakes
Broccolini arrived delightfully crunchy, its bitter flavors complemented by the right amount of garlic and chili heat.


Next to drink was the 2017 Modern Times Delectable Mountains, a red wine barrel-aged sour blonde with kumquats added. Aromas here were wonderfully multifaceted, with tons of citrus all over. The taste conveyed more kumquat in your face, along with an almost bracing "green" character and a restrained sourness.


Harissa Chicken [$19.00] | Roasted chicken with Grilled Toast, Pearl Onions, and Garlic Confit
The chicken was a surprise standout, and probably my favorite dish of the evening. I just found it super juicy, tender, and a great match with all the spicy, zippy flavors from the harissa.


Shishito Peppers [$10.00] | Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sesame, Yuzu, and Bonito Flakes
Shishitos were also on point with their perfect marriage of smoke and heat, the katsuobushi adding an extra layer of interest to the dish.


To go with dessert, we opened a bottle of Sauternes, the 2014 Château Guiraud. The wine smelled musky and sugary, with a distinct pineapple cake character and a touch of citrus. Its palate was rich and viscous, yet vivacious, and loaded with more pineapple, honey, orange, and stone fruit, while the finish just went on and on. This one will age quite well.


Since this was a birthday dinner, one of my dining companions baked an Asian Pear Frangipane Tart with Guava-Passion Fruit Glaze. The tart did an admirable job showcasing the pear, while the flaky crust reminded me of butter cookies. A fantastic pairing with the wine above.


Actually, as this was a dual birthday, we also had a Sweet Lady Jane Triple Berry Shortcake. This one also delivered with its balance of tart berry and light, airy, creamy butter cake. Note that we were not charged a cake cutting fee, which was appreciated.


Julius Peppers [$4.00] | Chile Vodka. Fresh Poblano. Lime. Pineapple.
Young Grasshopper [$4.00] | Banana. Cacao. Menthe. Cream.
We ended with a couple shooters for the birthday girls. The one on the left wasn't exactly to my liking, as I found it quite vegetal and astringent. A fellow diner likened it to something one would drink as part of a juice cleanse. Our other shooter was much more enjoyable, recalling a mash-up of mint-chocolate chip ice cream and horchata.

Obviously we weren't going to get an Otium-like experience here, and so given the concept and location behind Free Play, things went pretty well this evening. There were a couple misfires to be sure, but the group seemed generally happy with the restaurant. I'm actually curious now about checking out all the other places downstairs at The Fields.

HATCH Yakitori + Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

December 22, 2018, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Boston Lobster (San Gabriel, CA)

≪ Previous: Free Play (Los Angeles, CA)

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HATCH Yakitori + Bar
700 W 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90017
213.282.9070
www.hatchyakitori.com
Sat 12/22/2018, 08:00p-10:45p





If you've been paying attention to Downtown LA development, you'll know that the old Macy's Plaza had its top lopped off back in 2015, thus converting it into an open-air affair named The Bloc. The Bloc is still in the process of filling up with tenants, but one of the earlier leases signed was that of Hatch, which ended up opening in April this year. The place is the work of Daniel Shemtob, and can be described as an izakaya-style restaurant centered on kushiyaki (skewered and grilled food).

About the Chef: Daniel Eliyahu Shemtob was born in July 1988 to a Persian Jewish family, the younger of two brothers. His mother was a homeopathic practitioner while his father was a small business owner. He grew up in the Newport Beach area and, surrounded by a strong food culture, began cooking at an early age. Shemtob was always an entrepreneur, and apparently started his first venture when he was a tween: he would get people to pay him to perform errands, then outsource the actual tasks to older kids. He attended Irvine's University High School, and during his senior year, worked in the fashion industry (as a buyer for jewelry and shoes) and also started a personal shopping business. Profits from these activities were pooled with funds from his mom/brother and used to purchase real estate, but the investments ended up being a bust due to the Great Recession. Following high school, Shemtob skipped college and instead moved to LA to join a mortgage sales team. Given the aforementioned Recession, it was a bad time for that industry, and he ended up toiling for a year for barely any pay, though he did gain valuable experience in sales. He later worked for a loan modification firm started by a former coworker, where he excelled and quickly got promoted to managing a team. Shemtob used his profits from that job to start his own real estate services company. Things went well initially, but the business ended up closing after just six months, leaving him in debt.

After having a panic attack, he moved from his Hollywood Hills pad back to his mom's house. Realizing that he didn't really care for real estate, he decided to get into something he was passionate about: food. At first, Shemtob wanted to start a brick-and-mortar restaurant, but quickly realized that he didn't have the finances for such a project. Thus, he partnered up with high school friend Jason Quinn (of Playground fame) and started a food truck instead. The Lime Truck bowed in June 2010, in the midst of the food truck frenzy ignited by Kogi. It was a huge hit, and was evened deemed "Best New Restaurant" by OC Weekly that year. In 2011, Shemtob and Quinn appeared on Season 2 of The Great Food Truck Race and ended up winning the competition and the $100,000 grand prize. Quinn was bought out shortly after the win (the two partners never saw eye to eye and Quinn actually wanted to be bought out after just three months) and used his proceeds to launch Playground, while Shemtob continued to expand his business to more trucks and more cities. However, the Lime Truck didn't make nearly as much money as it could have during this period, as costs were way out of control, resulting in a paltry 3% profit margin.

Shemtob's next move was to finally go brick-and-mortar. He partnered with Murray Wishengrad, who had launched a burger concept called The Stand back in 2003. The Stand's location in Westwood Village wasn't doing well, and so it was decided to convert it into the first TLT Food, a fast casual eatery based on dishes from the truck. There were minimal out-of-pocket expenses to get started, and the restaurant eventually opened in October 2012. TLT proved to be pretty popular, and a second location dropped in September 2013, in the former home of Downtown's Silo Slider Bar; it ended up closing not too long afterward however, in August 2014. In November 2014, TLT Food debuted at the Irvine Spectrum, while it was also announced that another location would open at The Bloc. Shemtob also appeared on NBC's show Food Fighters around this time, and in addition, started working (along with Dr. Jason Snibbe) on Snibbs Shoes, a company focused on orthopedic work shoes. August 2016 saw TLT Food open at both The Bluffs in Newport Beach and Playhouse Plaza in Pasadena, though both locations have since shuttered (in August 2017 and February 2017, respectively) and been converted into The Stand. Shemtob began working on Hatch around autumn 2016, and, after traveling to Japan for research, opened the restaurant in The Bloc spot previously reserved for TLT.

Joining Shemtob here at Hatch are partners Nara Latip and Akarad Tachavatcharapa. Latip is an ArtCenter College of Design and Pepperdine MBA grad with a background in marketing and design. Tachavatcharapa, meanwhile, is also an ArtCenter alum and a former Saatchi & Saatchi intern, and comes with an advertising background. The three are collectively known by the somewhat cringey moniker of "The Yakitori Boyz."


Hatch is situated in a roughly 2,300ft² space on The Bloc's Plaza Level. It's quite unlike most other yakitori joints out there, and instead sports a clean, minimalist design that was ostensibly conceptualized by Latip.


As expected, the menu's centered on skewered morsels (grilled over binchotan we're told), though there are actually surprisingly few chicken parts on offer. You also get a minimal selection of small plates. To drink, you'll find an array of sakes, a beer list mostly focused on the usual Japanese labels, a smattering of wine, and a handful of spirits. Corkage was a refreshingly reasonable $15. Click for larger versions.


Herb Lamb [$8.00] | garlic oil, herb mix
The meal began with a bang thanks to this wonderfully tender, juicy, flavorful lamb chop imbued with the perfect amount of peppery kick. One of my favorites of the night for sure.


Bacon Broccolini [$4.50] | mustard tare
Here I got loads of smoky and sweet at first from the bacon-tare combo, but the bitterness of the broccolini came through in spades on the back end. Nice.


We had a bottle of bubbly to drink, the 1999 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas-François Billecart. Heady, heady nose rife with toasty funk along with hints of nuts, pome fruit, and oxidation. On the palate, I got concentrated yeasty notes joined by citrus, apple, a smidge of caramel, and a lively acidity. Definitely a mature sparkler, but it's still got some good years ahead.


Sauteed Bok Choy [$4.00] | soy sake, garlic chips
The boy choy was another winner thanks to its juicy, crunchy, savory 'n' bitter qualities accented by a deft touch of garlic.


Pork Belly [$4.00] | yuzu kosho
Tonbara arrived properly charred, its heft and potency evened out by the spicy-sour punch of yuzukosho.


Oyster Mushroom [$5.00] | mustard lime glaze
Soft 'shrooms were sweet and woodsy, but also in possession of a strong spicy element on the back end.


Chicken Heart [$4.00]
Hatsu showed off a pleasantly springy texture, while its potent, earthy flavors were complemented by the heat of togarashi.


Breast & Shiso [$3.00]
Breast, unfortunately, was on the dry side, though I did find it well-charred. Great minty finish from the shiso, too.


Bacon Enoki [$3.50]
Sweet, smoky bacon worked as an effective pair to the crunchy strands of enokitake.


Pee Wee Potato [$2.50] | yuzu kosho aioli, scallion
Potatoes were firm and hearty, and went well with the aioli, which provided both a creamy, lemony accent as well as a building spice.


Thigh & Green Onion [$3.00]
The negima was a crowd pleaser, as the soft, succulent, savory cuts of thigh just made sense with the bite of negi.


Brussels Sprouts [$2.50]
Brussels were satisfyingly-textured, and their bitterness and char were definitely on point to boot.


Corn Tempura [$8.00] | sweet corn fritters, jalapeno, green onion, brown sugar, assorted dips
At this point we moved on to a few non-skewered dishes. The corn fritters had a lovely crunch to 'em, as well as a sweetness that paired with the various condiments provided, the gochujang especially. This actually reminded me a bit of the corn perkedel over at Kasih.


Red Snapper [$12.00] | avocado, green onion, finger lime, house chili ponzu
Snapper was accompanied by the sour, savory nature of ponzu, all while avocado served as a cool, creamy counterpoint. The best part? Those pops of acidity from the finger lime vesicles.


Black Karaage [$12.00] | two day brined chicken thighs, squid ink, house pickles, grilled lime, black ranch dip
Kara-age was spot on in terms of texture, though I felt the pieces could've used more aggressive seasoning. However, the chicken did open up with a dab of that charcoal-garlic ranch and a squirt of lime.


With the wine dispensed with, we moved on into a carafe of the Ryujin "Dragon God" [$26], a namachozo ginjo class, single-pasteurized sake produced by Gunma Prefecture's Ryujin Shuzo. I got a super aromatic bouquet filled with sweet, almost candied melon. Taste-wise, there was even more vibrant melon finishing soft and smooth with a touch of heat.


Chicken Meatball [$4.50] | egg yolk & tare dip
I enjoyed the tsukune as well, largely due to its delectable marriage of sweetness and smoke, moderated by a healthy dosing of spring onion.


Seared Ahi [$4.00] | scallion, house togarashi
A dense block of ahi tuna was cooked more than I would've liked unfortunately, though I did have a proper mix of acidity, brine, and spice.


Mushroom Party [$3.00]
It wasn't much of a "party," but the mushrooms worked things out well enough, coming out soft and sweet, with their signature umami notes conveyed.


Okra [$2.50]
Okra was as mucilaginous as expected, but also satisfactorily seared and rather tasty.


Gizzard [$3.00] | house togarashi
We ended with the sunagimo, which was both crunchy and pliant at the same time, just like I wanted. Taste-wise, I found the gizzard sweet-n-savory, and better with a dab of that togarashi.


Binchotan Brownie [$10.00] | grilled brownie, matcha frosting, black sesame ice cream
Dessert ended up being complimentary, presumably because we ordered so much. In any case, the brownie was a hit. I appreciated how its smoke balanced out the richness of the chocolate, and there was a pervasive savoriness that made me think of olive oil. The sesame ice cream, meanwhile, was a perfect pairing.

I was a bit skeptical coming into here, but the team pulled it off for the most part. Hatch is a fairly untraditional take on yakitori, but manages to stay true to the ethos of the traditional Japanese preparations. I think the most successful dishes here are actually the more unconventional ones. At the same time though, the classic items deliver too, and in fact, I'd actually like to have a larger variety of chicken parts (e.g. tail, cartilage, skin) represented on the menu. I'm curious to see if Shemtob and company decide to replicate the Hatch concept elsewhere--I could see it working.

Boston Lobster (San Gabriel, CA)

December 28, 2018, 7:50 pm

≫ Next: Sushi Go 55 (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: HATCH Yakitori + Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

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Boston Lobster Tôm Hùm Restaurant
727 E Valley Blvd, San Gabriel, CA 91776
626.288.4388
Fri 12/28/2018, 07:50p-09:30p





I'd been wanting to try Boston Lobster (Yue Wei Xian in Chinese) for a while now, and was finally able to check it out recently for an end-of-year dinner. The place opened in June 2014, and according to local lore, was started by a former chef from the nearby Newport Seafood, though I can't really find any "official" sources to corroborate this. The Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control lists the owners as Li-Shou Ma and Zhen-Bao Xiang, for what it's worth. In any case, the restaurant is essentially a clone of Newport, and serves a very similar Chinese-Vietnamese menu, which of course includes the namesake lobster.


Boston Lobster takes over the address that was previously home to J.Z. Restaurant, Oriental Pearl, and Clark Ho's G.C. River. The decor is about what you'd expect.



The menu's pretty large, and lists pretty much all the Chinese-Vietnamese favorites you'd find at Newport. Drink-wise, there's a small selection of wines, beers, and soft drinks. Corkage, meanwhile, is supposed to be $15 a bottle, though we ended up getting charged $20 in total, which wasn't bad at all. Click for larger versions.


Clam with Black Bean Sauce [$12.98]
Clams arrived springy and soft, with an apparent brine that linked up well with the potent douchi sauce. Onions and bell peppers provided further contrast, though I wanted a crisper texture on the veggies.


We began with a bottle of 2009 Dom Perignon Champagne, which was fitting for the festive mood. Its bouquet was actually fairly understated and conveyed a fine toasty quality with yellow pome fruit and citrus. The palate was bright and acidic, but also a bit restrained, giving up lime, apple, stone, and a subtle nuttiness along with a trace of heat. The wine was drinking very young this evening, and could definitely benefit from at least several more years of aging.


Ma Po Tofu [$10.98]
The mapo doufu was decent. I appreciated the silky texture of the tofu here, though I felt like there could've been more depth of spice to the dish, as well as more mala.


French Style Beef Cube [$13.98]
The restaurant's rendition of bo luc lac was a crowd pleaser thanks to its tender, perfectly seasoned cuts of beef, which were well matched with the onions in the dish. You can't go wrong with this.


Yang Chow Fried Rice [$8.98]
The Yangzhou fried rice hit the mark. What surprised me most was how well the shrimp were cooked, and I was a fan of the texture on the rice, too. The char siu pork imparted a wonderful sweet-savoriness to things, making for a well balanced dish overall.


Next to drink came the 2015 Királyudvar Furmint Tokaji Sec. This one smelled of honey and sugary tropical fruit, but also displayed a somewhat funky character that was key for balance. Taste-wise, I got acidity and astringency mixed with plenty of vibrant yellow fruit and more honey, alongside a smidge of mustiness. A fun wine for sure.


Boston House Special Lobster + Add Garlic Noodle (x2) [$75.96 + $6.00x2]
And here we see the signature Chiuchow-style Atlantic lobster, which was a touch tougher than I'd prefer. It was on point taste-wise though, with its buttery, black pepper-infused flavors joined by the potency of green onion and jalapeño in classic, gratifying fashion. The noodles were a welcomed addition as well, providing a savory, cozy quality to the course.


Sea Cucumber with Black Mushroom [$20.98]
Haishen arrived slick and slippery. It didn't taste like much on its own, but was complemented by the umami notes from the mushrooms and accompanying sauce. I also enjoyed the contrast provided by the lettuce and bamboo.


Kung Pao Squid [$11.98]
Squid was generally quite tender, though unfortunately certain parts did veer rubbery. There was a very palpable salinity in the dish that stood up to the usual Kung Pao ingredients (especially the leeks and peanuts), though overall I think the flavors could've been a tad more aggressive.


We moved on to some beer at this point, starting with the 2017 Modern Times Palace of Cracked Heads, a nectarine-boosted red wine barrel-aged oud bruin with Lacto, Pedio, and Brett. It smelled quite nice, with lots of funky, sour notes intermixed with heady stone fruit. In terms of taste, I got super rich, spicy nectarine flavors along with a persistent tartness and earthy, yeasty quality in the background.


Sautéed Pea Sprout [$15.98]
The dou miao were beautifully textured, though far too bland, and definitely needed more garlic and salt.


Fried Pork Chop with Salt & Pepper [$11.98]
Crunchy jiaoyan pork chops had just the right amount of S&P seasoning, and worked great with the green onion and garlic, too.


Shrimp with Walnut [$15.98]
The hetao xia was another winner. The shrimp had a lovely texture: just crisp enough on the outside, yet soft and supple on the inside. There was a noticeable sweetness to the dish, but it was never domineering, and still let the inherent nature of the shrimp shine.


Our final beverage was the 2016 Beachwood Blendery Propagation Series: No. Omega, a tart farmhouse ale aged in oak barrels with Brett, Lacto, and Pedio. Designed to be a sort of Brett saison and lambic hybrid, the beer smelled great, with boatloads of juicy orange moderated by a potent earthiness. On the palate, I found it super funky, and there was this rubbery, astringent, barnyard-y quality to it that was superbly moderated by more of that succulent citrus fruit. This was arguably the most complex, interesting beer of the entire Propagation series.


House Special Crispy Fried Sole Fish [$21.98]
We'd initially wanted the "House Special Black Cod Whole Fish," but the restaurant ran out of cod, so we ended up having the same sauce with the "Crispy Fried Sole Fish." In any case, I found the fish tender and juicy, delicate in consistency and well matched to the crunchiness of its skin. The included sauce, meanwhile, went in a sweet and funky direction, with a pleasant heat and distinct notes of basil.


For dessert we had oranges.

It's been a long time since I've dined at Newport, but from what I can recall, I think I'd give it a slight edge food-wise. That being said, we were still generally happy with our meal tonight, despite a couple nits and the long wait to get in. Actually, this has gotten me somewhat curious about 626 Lobster and New Century Lobster, two more Newport clones that have opened up nearby--my guess is that they're all pretty similar.

Sushi Go 55 (Los Angeles, CA)

January 4, 2019, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: B.S. Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Sushi Go 55
333 S Alameda St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.687.0777
www.sushigola.com
Fri 01/04/2019, 08:00p-10:05p





Situated on the third floor of the Little Tokyo Galleria, Sushi Go 55 is actually one of the more storied sushi spots in SoCal. The restaurant traces its history to 1929, when the Morishita family launched their first Japanese restaurant in LA. That eatery ran for about a decade, and the family ended up moving back to Japan during World War II to avoid internment. Following the end of the conflict, Roy Morishita returned to the US and re-launched Eigiku Cafe at 314 East 1st St in 1957. In ~1966, Eigiku added what's often considered America's second sushi bar (the first was installed at the nearby Kawafuku about six months earlier, while the third was at Tokyo Kaikan, where the California Roll was ostensibly invented). In the 1980s, a second location called Seafood-Sushi Eigiku debuted in Santa Monica Place, while the original Eigiku closed in 1987. Sushi Go 55, meanwhile, was opened in September 2004 by Tomoko Morishita in the spot previously occupied by Kawacho, Tsukara Sushi, and Shibucho. Morishita debuted Izakaya Haru Ulala in 2005 at the former address of Haruki/Furaibo, but the place closed at the end of 2014, and was subsequently replaced by ramen shop Hakata Ikkousha.


Go 55's menu features your usual sushi selections as well as a number of appetizers/cooked dishes. There are also two omakase options, at $80 and $120 a head. We ended up going with the higher-end option, prepared this evening by Oki-san, who claims over 40 years of cooking experience (including 1.5 years here). To drink, you get an array of sakes, shochus, and beers. Corkage is a sensible $20 per bottle. Click for larger versions.


1: Ankimo
A starter of monkfish liver was pretty textbook: lush and dense and briny, but evened out by the sour-savory ponzu and zesty scallions.


2: Sashimi Moriawase
Our sashimi course featured five different selections:

• Kanpachi - A delicate fish, accented but not overwhelmed by the salty-spicy-sour smack of yuzukosho.
• Kuromaguro - A classic cut for sure, one that really opened up with a dab of 'sabi and soy.
• Hotate to Uni - A marriage of two different interpretations of sweetness and brine, finished by an unmistakable wasabi heat.
• Amaebi - Creamy yet snappy at the same time, just as I'd expect, and great with a dab of wasabi.
• Kuromaguro Toro - Soft to the bite and super oily, this one really called for wasabi and soy for balance.

3: Toro with Uni and Ikura
Toro was imbued with heady flavors of shoyu and truffle, on top of which we had a back-and-forth between salmon roe and sea urchin. Seaweed served as a counterpoint, but the best part were those delightfully zippy bits of wasabi mixed in with the tuna.


4a: Hirame
At this point we began with the nigiri, which were served two-to-three at a time (I'd prefer individually of course). Halibut was accompanied by a tart, fruity topping, while the back end really showed off the mintiness of shiso.


4b: Tai
Red seabream conveyed an interplay between salinity and shiso, with the tartness of the umeboshi(?) sauce functioning as an accent piece.


4c: Sake
Wild salmon arrived distinctly savory and smoky, while the sheet of tangy pickled kelp imparted an offsetting sourness that worked.


We had a bottle of 2006 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut La Grande Dame to go along with the sushi. The wine smelled quite nice, giving up notes of juicy apple, yeast, and light lemon; I found it somewhat reminiscent of apple cider in fact. The palate was very balanced, yielding subtle toast, citrus, apple, minerals, flowers, and a bright acidity. A tasty sparkler overall, though it'd improve with more age.


5a: Zuwaigani
Snow crab ate savory and almost truffle-y at first, but had a super sweet brine that came through on the finish and lasted long.


5b: Hotate
Scallop came out slightly seared, and thus had a great smokiness and astringency to go along with its inherent sweetness. Nice hit of wasabi here, too.


6: Ebi no Atama
The fried shrimp head from the ama ebi above was as enjoyable as always.


7a: Ika
Squid was sweet and sticky, its mild flavors enhanced by judicious applications of 'sabi and shiso.


7b: Awabi
Abalone was almost crunchy to the bite, with a strong ocean-y taste that was balanced out by the wasabi and rice.


7c: Mirugai
Texturally, geoduck had a satisfyingly firm yet pliant consistency, along with a definite sweetness joined by lots of wasabi and a touch of yuzukosho.


8: Yaki Kinki
Next up was grilled, marinated idiot fish (or shortspine thornyhead), which you don't see that often on menus. I found it super rich, I'd say buttery in fact, and it also had a truffle-like funk to it. The included purée (parsnip?) worked as a counterweight, and I didn't mind the salty pops from the salmon eggs, either.


9: Asari no Misoshiru
The miso soup was extra saline thanks to the incorporation of clam.


10a: Kuromaguro
A glistening cut of bluefin tuna was slick and soft, and really sang with that dollop of wasabi.


10b: Binnagamaguro
Albacore showed off flavors of soy and truffle, with the onions up top providing a well-placed tartness and crunch.


10c: Kuromaguro Toro
Bluefin belly was nearly melt-in-your-mouth, its sheer fattiness and oiliness matched by just enough wasabi and soy.


11: Foie Gras with Tuna
Here we had perhaps the most interesting bite of the night. The seared foie was as rich and luxurious as one would want, but also had a nice smoky sear to it. It actually meshed well with the comparatively delicate tuna, while the rice effectively moderated it all. Surprisingly balanced I have to say.


12: Zuwaigani Temaki
A baked snow crab hand roll signaled the end of the meal. The actual crab was rather intensely flavored, and had an almost buttery quality to it. Given its heft, the rice was absolutely key, as was the dish's hint of wasabi heat. I also appreciated the nuttiness from the bits of sesame on the roll's mamenori (soy paper) wrapper.


13: Pineapple
The pineapple seemed much sweeter than usual, and worked as a refreshing counterpoint to all the hefty flavors we'd been having.

I'd actually been to Go 55 previously, but I'm glad I finally made it back here and documented the experience, as this was certainly one of the better sushi meals I've had in Little Tokyo. The food was mostly traditional, but there were definitely a number of more unexpected flourishes that I didn't mind. However, it appears that the restaurant might be closing in the near future, so if you want to try this place, I'd visit sooner rather than later.

If you look at the exterior photo above, you'll notice a "Public Notice of Application for Ownership Change" posted on the window. After checking the Alcoholic Beverage Control web site, I saw that Go 55's liquor license was transferred to Takayama Group Inc back in December. That entity is owned by one Ken Peter Takayama, which makes me wonder: is this the same Ken Takayama that's Chef de Cuisine at Melisse? We know that Melisse is shuttering at the start of March, so could Takayama be striking out on his own and opening up shop in Little Tokyo? Time will tell.

B.S. Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

January 6, 2019, 7:50 pm

≫ Next: Rappahannock Oyster Bar (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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BS Taqueria
514 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.622.3744
www.bstaqueria.com
Sun 01/06/2018, 07:50p-09:45p



I recently found myself in search of a place to have dinner in Downtown after previously made plans fell through, and wound up at Ray Garcia's new wave taco joint B.S. Taqueria. I'd reported on the place shortly after it'd opened nearly four years ago, and I figured that a revisit wouldn't be a bad idea.


Eggplant [$5.00] | Cannellini bean, pepita gremolata, hibiscus-pickled onions, feta
Eggplant came out smoky and savory, its hefty flavors countered just a touch by the pickled onions while feta added a creamy, lactic element to the mix.


Drink for a Good Thyme [$13.00] | Thyme-infused tequila, yellow chartreuse, habanero, lime, bell pepper
This vibrantly-hued cocktail smelled quite sweet, but in a sort of herbaceous manner (thanks to the Chartreuse), and had just a hint of heat peeking through. In terms of taste, I got spice up front, leading to unmistakable notes of aromatic thyme while the finish once again showed off the sweetness of the liqueur.


Bay Scallop [$9.00] | Cauliflower, romesco, olive, caper, serrano
Our second taco ate decidedly sweet and nutty at first blush, but this soon gave way to the brine of the scallops and the sharp, lingering heat from the serranos.


Birria Quesadilla [$9.00]
The quesadilla's a relatively new menu item I believe, but was one of my favorites tonight. I got a really gratifying back-and-forth between the lamb and the cheese here, all backed up by the crunch of the tortilla. The paired salsa was also welcomed, as was the zestiness of those raw onions.


La Diosa Verde [$13.00] | Ancho verde, tequila anejo, housemade tajin, lemon, cucumber, mint
Our next cocktail conveyed plenty of cucumber and citrus in a surprisingly soft-drinking package. Mint and a healthy dose of anise-y spice appeared on the back end and lasted long.


Chorizo & Papas [$5.00] | Housemade chorizo, queso oaxaca, fingerling potatoes, salsa tatemada
The time-tested combo of potatoes and sausage didn't fail us tonight. There was just this lovely spice from the chorizo that meshed perfectly with the papas, all while the cheese tied it all together. Cozy and homey.


Aguachile [$14.00] | Seasonal catch, cucumber, avocado, caper, habanero, tomatillo
BST's take on aguachile hit the mark thanks to its sharp, prickly heat moderated by lush avocado and bits of cucumber, which made for a natural pairing with the seafood. Nice crunch from the included tortilla chips, too.


Blood Meridian [$14.00] | Lime, hibiscus, cinnamon, domingo mezcal, angostura
This was probably my favorite cocktail tonight. I found it smoky on the nose, with a touch of sweetness in the background. Taste-wise, think fruity, floral, smoky, and a smidge cinnamon-y. Well balanced.


Baja Fish [$6.00] | Beer batter, tomatillo, cabbage, cilantro crema
We have here a fairly straightforward rendition of the Baja taco staple. The fish itself was spot on: creamy and moist on the inside, but still crispy on the outside. The cilantro sauce worked as a creamy counterpoint, and I was a fan of the zesty tomatillo here as well.


Mushroom [$5.00] | Queso panela, black beans, garlic, chile de arbol
The earthy, woodsy quality of the mushrooms was the focal point of this taco, and was joined by the right amount of heat and plenty of pungent garlic.


Aperol de Taqueria [$13.00] | Tequila blanco, elderflower liqueur, peach shrub, prosecco, lemon, aperol
Our final cocktail was as quaffable as cocktails served in wine glasses tend to be. I found it refreshing for sure, with the sweetness of the elderflower and peach evened out by the Aperol's bitterness.


Nachos [$13.00] | Chorizo, cheese, avocado salsa, frijoles, escabeche
Nachos were pretty delicious, its marriage of chorizo and cheese satisfying in a comforting sort of manner. The salsa functioned as a bright counterpoint, and I appreciated the sheer crunchiness of the chips too. A refined version of nachos, but still just trashy enough.


Carne Asada [$5.00] | Flank steak, nopales, avocado salsa
The classic carne asada taco was given a revamp in our last dish. The meat itself I found fatty, juicy, peppery, and rather deeply-flavored, with a welcomed touch of smoke. It was quite tasty just by itself, but the various other components here made for a balanced bite indeed.

Almost four years in, B.S. Taqueria appears to be holding up pretty well. I really didn't have much to complain about regarding the food--which we'll say is purposefully inauthentic--and the overall experience was pleasant. It's nice to see that this place is still going strong.

---

Rappahannock Oyster Bar (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

January 13, 2019, 12:00 pm

≫ Next: Saemaeul (Buena Park, CA)

≪ Previous: B.S. Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Rappahannock Oyster Bar at ROW DTLA
787 S Alameda St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
323.435.4004
www.rappbardtla.com / www.rroysters.com/restaurants/rappoysterbardtla
Sun 01/13/2019, 12:00p-02:15p





I was recently in search of a Downtown spot for a working Sunday brunch, and after considering the likes of The Exchange and Manuela, decided upon Rappahannock Oyster Bar, where I'd enjoyed a dinner before.


As far as the menu goes, it's still largely the work of Nick Erven, though the Chef left the restaurant last August if you recall. To drink: a brunch-appropriate selection of beers, wines selected by Jonathan Hood, and cocktails by Hope Ewing (I believe). Click for larger versions.


Lillet Cup [$14.00] | Lillet, lime, cucumber, vanilla syrup
First to drink was this aperitif cocktail. Strong notes of cucumber and lime on the nose led to a palate filled with sweet 'n' sour spice along with some oxidative, aromatic elements. Refreshing, yet surprisingly multifaceted--a lovely start.


Bay Scallops [$16.00] | yuzu, burnt orange, poppy seed, tarragon
Scallops were just supple enough, and had their clean, fresh flavors accented by vibrant citrus and a wonderful herbaceousness from the tarragon.


Hamachi [$17.00] | persimmons, shiso, serrano, radish, garlic-ponzu vinaigrette
Yellowtail was a hit as well. We were fans of the savory, tart vinaigrette utilized here, and how the played with the brine of the fish. There was also a surprisingly stout heat from the serranos that stayed with you.


Rapp Toddy [$13.00] | Lemon, fortified wine, Byrrh Grand Quinquina, bitters
A take on the hot toddy was appropriate for the chilly weather we were having. I found it decidedly vinous, but with plenty of bittersweet spice and lemon for balance.


Rapp Steak & Eggs [$29.00] | pineapple bbq, brussels slaw, masa "fries", egg your way
I believe this was hanger steak. It was a flavorful cut, with a nice char and a marked sweetness from the advertised pineapple, while texturally I found the meat slightly chewy. The corn-based fries were a hit with the group, and there were no complaints concerning the over medium egg, either.


Avocado Toast [$15.00] | soft scramble, jalapeño, chives, raw onion
Creamy, herby eggs melded beautifully with the lushness of avocado, the toast offering up a crunchy counterpoint. My favorite part, though, was the offsetting pungency from the bits of raw onion.


Külade [$14.00] | prickly pear & tarragon shrub, Cocchi Rosa, watermelon beer
This ruby-hued cocktail was definitely on the quaffable side. Refreshing and effervescent, it displayed a mix of watermelon and wine at first blush, leading to the robust sweetness of prickly pear on the finish.


Lobster Benedict [$21.00] | fried green tomato, hollandaise, smashed fingerlings
A riff on Eggs Benedict worked it out. Lobster was sweet and well-cooked, and made sense with the lushness of poached egg and hollandaise, while the tomato provided a contrasting tartness and crunch. We enjoyed the hearty, herby potatoes on the side, too.



Breakfast Burrito [$15.00] | crispy potato, cheddar, chorizo, scrambled egg, piquillo hot sauce, lime crema
Curiously, this was one of the few times I've actually had a breakfast burrito anywhere near breakfast time. In any case, what we had was a fairly classic interpretation of the dish. I especially liked the spicy-savoriness of the chorizo and how that meshed with the eggs and taters, just like you'd expect. There was also a definite sweet-heat in the burrito that I didn't mind.


Hot Buttered Bitters [$14.00] | Madeira, angostura bitters, smoked maple butter, hot H2O
We ended with another hot cocktail. Many of us commented that this "tasted like Christmas," due to its plethora of sweet 'n' spicy notes layered over a base of potent Madeira.


Kimchi-Cheddar Biscuits [$10.00] | smoked apple butter - baked to order - allow 20 minutes
Biscuits were a touch dry, but otherwise spot on, showing off a cong you bing-like, onion-y zestiness that married perfectly with that sweet-smoky butter.


Shrimp & Grits [$21.00] | bacon, maque choux, fermented chili butter, sunny side egg
The shrimp 'n' grits largely delivered. The actual shrimp had a proper cook on 'em, and still conveyed a salinity that linked up well with the spicy, somewhat nutty, bacon-enhanced grits.

I'm actually not much of a brunch person myself, but ended up enjoying our meal at Rappahannock. The place seems to be holding up rather well in Erven's absence, though from what I hear, the restaurant is indeed searching for a new Chef. As for Erven, word on the street is that he'd like to return to LA (he went to Detroit to open a new spot called Antihero), so we'll see.

Saemaeul (Buena Park, CA)

January 14, 2019, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: OmG Omakase by Gino (Santa Ana, CA)

≪ Previous: Rappahannock Oyster Bar (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Saemaeul Sikdang Restaurant: The Original Korean BBQ
5471 Beach Blvd, Buena Park, CA 90621
714.562.0900
www.newmaul.com / www.theborn.co.kr
Mon 01/14/2019, 07:45p-09:20p





The Buena Park gogi-gui scene got a boost last May with the debut of Saemaeul, the brainchild of Korean celebrity chef Baek Jong-won. Baek is the head of The Born, a restaurant franchising company he founded in 1993 that currently boasts over 1300 locations across South Korea, other parts of Asia, and right here in the United States. Among The Born's over two dozen brands, we've already had iterations of Korean-Chinese eateries Hong Kong Banjum and Paik's Noodle in the Los Angeles area for years. Saemaeul, however, is arguably The Born's flagship brand, initially launched in October 2005 and now boasting 145 outposts. It's named after the South Korean Saemaul Undong initiative of the 1970s, a "New Village Movement" created by President Park Chung-hee that was designed to modernize the country's rural economy.


Saemaeul takes over the address previously held by M Pizza and Grill (i.e. Mr. Pizza sans franchise license), Mr. Pizza (opened September 2015), and the longstanding (ca. 1995) King’s Garden Chinese Restaurant. From what I understand, the decor is ostensibly inspired by gogijib of the 1970s.



Saemaeul's menu, not surprisingly, is centered on its selection of meats, which includes a couple more uncommon varieties. Various combos are offered, as are a number of other Korean staple dishes. Drink-wise, you get your typical beers and sojus and such, as well as flavored makgeolli. Corkage is not available. Click for larger versions.


Miyeok-guk (seaweed soup) showed off cozy, umami-laden flavors, and just seemed apropos for the chilly weather we were having.


A hefty goblet of Peach Makgeolli [$11.99] wasn't overly sweet thankfully, though the booze was still well hidden.



Yeoltan Bulgogi [$17.99] | Charcoal Grilled Thinly Sliced Pork
Beef Special Combo [$52.99] | Kkotsal + Sogalbisal + Chadolbagi + Kimchi Jjigae
We ended up ordering a beef combo, with Saemaeul's signature pork tacked on.


The myeolchi bokkeum (anchovy) was as briny as expected, but also displayed a pervasive sweetness.


Jangajji pickles ate crunchy and just acidic enough.




The usual starter of chadol (brisket) was both fattier and more flavorful than usual, as well as somewhat chewier.


Salt-and-pepper was primed for the application of sesame oil, while the chadol sauce contained cabbage, which I don't think I've seen before.


Ssam wrappers of sangchu (lettuce) and kkaenip (perilla), along with a couple of delightfully crunchy, not-too-spicy gochu. Try the peppers simply with a dip in the ssamjang.




The kkotsal (boneless short ribs) I found juicy and tender, as well as super clean tasting, with a hint of smoke.


The gamjachae bokkeum was my favorite of the banchan, as I loved the crunchiness of the potatoes here.


Pajeori also hit the mark with its sweet 'n' spicy notes layered over the astringency of green onion.




The sogalbisal (beef finger rib) was the most austere meat of the night due to its tougher consistency and relatively restrained flavor profile.


A pretty classic rendition of baechu kimchi.


The requisite salad was on the underdressed side, and rather bitter.




We ended with Saemaeul's signature yeoltan bulgogi, which came slathered in a gochujang-based sauce. It was quite spicy (I was glistening), but the meat did display this undercurrent of sweetness to it as well. Texturally, the pork had a meaty, satisfying chew that was different than what you find in your typical bulgogi.


Haemul Pajeon [$14.99] | Seafood and Green Onion Pancake
Saemaeul's haemul pajeon was one of the better ones I've eaten in recent times. I especially appreciated the pancake's almost "fluffy" consistency, not to mention how well the seafood was incorporated.


Last up was the restaurant's signature chilbun dwaeji kimchi jjigae, a preparation of the stew in which it's apparently boiled for only seven minutes (a relatively short time from what I hear). In any case, it was a solid rendition of the dish for sure. I definitely found it meatier than usual, with a stronger sour component from the kimchi.

Saemaeul is another worthwhile addition to Buena Park's Korean cuisine landscape. The barbeque was solid, while the non-BBQ dishes delivered too, and overall the menu here just seems ever so subtly different than those of competing KBBQ places. I'll be curious to see if they expand to more locations throughout SoCal.

OmG Omakase by Gino (Santa Ana, CA)

January 17, 2019, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Fuss & Feathers at Hatchet Hall (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Saemaeul (Buena Park, CA)

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OmG Omakase by Gino
304 N Main St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
657.231.6008
www.facebook.com/OmakaseByGino
Thu 01/17/2019, 08:00p-10:30p





I actually stumbled onto one of OC's most notable new sushi openings almost by accident. What happened was that I was looking for a good sushi spot in the Fullerton area (spoiler: there's not much), and found this place called Kaori. Upon delving further into Kaori, I soon discovered that its Chef/Owner Gino Choi had left and opened a much more intimate omakase-focused spot at the end of December. After being intrigued by what little information I could find about OmG, I decided to go ahead and make a reservation.

About the Chef: Choi Jin-ho was born in Seoul and spent the bulk of his childhood there. He didn't get along with his father, a strongheaded former pro rugby player who operated an Argentinean chicken restaurant (dad used to live in Argentina). His grandfather, meanwhile, was raised in Japan, and took his grandson to live in Tokyo on-and-off, months at a time. He began cooking when he was seven, learning from his great-grandmother, though curiously enough, he never really liked Korean food growing up. Choi's first professional kitchen gig came at age 13, when he started working part-time at an Italian restaurant in Seoul. He continued cooking during his teenage years in order to make money, and also started getting attracted to the art of sushi during this period. He graduated high school in 1998, and later went to college for music, guitar specifically. In addition to cooking, he also worked as a motorcycle mechanic in college.

Choi moved to the US permanently in 2002, at the age of 22, and settled in California (fittingly, since he enjoys surfing). His first job was at a place called Onoya(sp?) in Huntington Beach, but he soon quit when it turned into an all-you-can-eat joint. He then found a mentor in Hideaki Kikuchi, of the late Kikusui Hillside Village in Torrance, and honed his traditional sushi skills under him. In 2003, Choi opened his first restaurant in Tustin, which he had for about four years. This was followed by the debut of the aforementioned Kaori in Fullerton in mid-2007. The original restaurant was located at 500 N Harbor, but later moved to a new site a short distance away in 2011. The Chef ended up selling his stake in the business in the middle of last year to focus his energies on OmG.


OmG occupies a space just a couple doors down from Ross Pangilinan's Mix Mix. It used to be home to the likes of Gu Ramen, Paninoteca Maggio, Yoky's Pollo a la Brasa, and Rostizeria La Gloria, and now sports a decor that blends traditional Japanese sushi bar aesthetics with some more eclectic, whimsical touches.


Above is the view from one end of the 10-seater bar.


There's only one menu option at OmG: a 20-ish course omakase priced at a reasonable $105 a head that comprises a few sakizuke starters followed by sashimi and a parade of nigiri. In terms of beverages, you get a small selection of sakes and beers, as well as a couple wines. Corkage is $30 a pop, with apparently no limit as to number of bottles. Click for larger versions.


1: Tomato to Umibudo
In our first bite, the sweet-tartness of tomato was joined by the oceany sea grapes and a zingy sauce that featured what I believe was nashi pear and ground sesame.




2: Kusshi Kaki
A creamy Kusshi oyster had its brine augmented by Siberian caviar while the yuzu tobiko offered up a citrusy contrast. I also appreciated the sort of "crunchy" texture imparted by the flying fish roe.


3: Ankimo
Monkfish liver showed off a delicate, almost chicken-like savoriness to it that worked beautifully with the prickly heat of the paired jalapeño ponzu.




4: Chutoro no Tataki
Spanish tuna arrived lightly seared, making for an unabashedly fatty, oily, smoky bite that was smartly offset by the sweet-n-tangy nature of the shishito sumiso sauce. I got a nice herby counterpoint from the microgreens, too.


To drink, we began with a bottle of the 1998 Henriot Champagne Cuvée des Enchanteleurs Brut. This was a mature sparkler, one giving aromas of mushroom-y funk, toast, oxidation, caramel, and light pome fruit. On the palate, I got more oxidative notes and more breadiness, alongside an earthy, barnyard-y character, all while the finish showed off lively citric qualities.


5: Chawanmushi
The chawanmushi seemed appropriate for the chilly weather we were having. It was a cozy, umami-laden egg custard, one containing briny bits of shrimp and crisp shards of bamboo.


6: Sashimi Moriawase
The evening's sashimi plate brought out six selections. Counter-clockwise from top, we had:

• Akami - A soft, mild presentation of bluefin, with a slight bitterness.
• Chutoro - A definite step up in terms of fattiness and sweetness.
• Otoro - Super savory and luscious, this one had a trace of sesame oil I believe, which actually worked as an effective foil to the fish.
• Niji Masu - Ocean trout from Scotland--I found this lean and wonderfully smoky.
• Hirame no Kobujime - Kombu-marinated halibut, heightened by the application of yuzukosho.
• Hon Hamachi - Last up was yellowtail, which was firm and crisp, with a persistent brine and somewhat less fat than usual.

7: Uni Pasta
Here we had the Chef's signature uni pasta, one featuring udon, Santa Barbara sea urchin, white truffle, black truffle, and mentaiko. The noodles were thick and slick, but still picked up the essence of truffle, while the combination of urchin and pollock roe made for a sweet and spicy finish to the dish.


8: Hon Maguro Akami
Kicking things off nigiri-style was the bluefin tuna, a soft, sweet fish that actually could've melded a bit better with the shari, which seemed particularly cool here.


9: Kanpachi
Amberjack was delightfully textured, conveying a very gratifying snap, while flavors were mild and delicate.


10: Tai
Japanese snapper was just right thanks to its squirt of citrus and pinch of salt.


11: Niji Masu
Ocean trout was a balance between lush and lean, and had a nice citrusy kick evened out by a persistent sweetness on the back end.


12: Shima Aji
Striped jack from Japan had a gorgeous consistency, while the punch of the yuzukosho on top worked as a great accent piece.


13: Hotate to Uni
Japanese scallop and Santa Barbara urchin represented a marriage of sweetness and brine, further bonded together by a fruity sauce featuring what I believe was berry and garlic. I was also a fan of the smoky sear present, as well as the burn of wasabi on the finish.


14: Sakana no Supu
A break from the sushi came in the form of a fish broth, made from Japanese snapper, striped jack, and halibut (boiled for eight hours), along with shiitake and katsuobushi. The soup tasted strongly of the ocean, so the astringency of the green onion here was absolutely key.


15: Hon Maguro Otoro
Bluefin toro was a treat, coming out almost unbelievably sweet, with plenty of fat and oil to boot. The rice was crucial here as a counterweight.


With the wine gone, we enjoyed the Horin Junmai Daiginjo [$25] from producer Gekkeikan out of Fushimi, Kyoto. The sake had a delicate nose of sweet honeydew and light booze. I found the palate soft and sweet, bringing more vibrant fruit and a bit of creaminess, all finished by a touch of heat.


16: Kurodai
Black sea bream was super balanced, and had a particularly savory quality to it evened out by the tartness of citrus zest.


17: Shime Saba
Lightly cured mackerel was slightly tangy, with a refined brine offset by notes of fresh shiso.


18: Ikura
Salmon roe showed off the sweet-ish notes of its sake marinade, while the bite's nori wrapper worked beautifully for contrast.


Kohada [$5.00]
A supplemental piece, the gizzard shad had a marked salinity that was countered by a pickle-y tartness and minty notes of shiso.


19: Tamago
Incorporating Japanese sea bream and shrimp, Choi's traditional closer of egg was a pleasant surprise, and one of the tastier renditions of tamagoyaki I've had. What really worked for me was the sweet, caramelized crust of the egg, and how that played with the brine of the bream/shrimp combination.


20: Panna Cotta
Dessert came in the form of a housemade panna cotta. Think milky and sweet, with a touch of acidity from the berries.

Despite the somewhat cringey name, OmG is indeed a welcomed addition to the Orange County sushi scene. Choi may take liberties with some of his food, though I think he stays true to the ethos of the cuisine, and I'm excited to taste more from him. Our dinner was a good value too, considering the length of the meal, its intimacy, and the ingredients utilized. Do note that the Chef's shari leans toward the sweet side, so keep that in mind if you're sensitive to it. I'm looking forward to seeing how this place evolves.

Fuss & Feathers at Hatchet Hall (Los Angeles, CA)

January 24, 2019, 8:05 pm

≫ Next: Gangnam House (Buena Park, CA)

≪ Previous: OmG Omakase by Gino (Santa Ana, CA)

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Fuss and Feathers at Hatchet Hall
12517 Washington Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90066
310.391.4222
www.hatchethallla.com/fuss-feathers
Thu 01/24/2019, 08:05p-12:30a





Since opening in 2015, Brian Dunsmoor and Jonathan Strader's Culver City-adjacent restaurant Hatchet Hall has firmly established itself as a go-to spot for American Southern cooking in LA. Now we all have a fair idea of what "Southern" cooking is, but what exactly is "American" cooking? The answer isn't as clear, so that's what Dunsmoor and company began exploring. The result of their research has culminated in Fuss & Feathers, a seasonal dinner series named after Winfield Scott, the longest-serving Army general in US history as well as a noted gourmand. The supper club of sorts began on July 19th last year, then returned on October 11th. This third iteration, meanwhile, kicked off on January 24th, and ran until February 28th, Thursdays only, inside Hatchet Hall's cozy Family Room.


Above we see Fuss & Feathers' menu, inspired by the cuisine of early America and ostensibly created solely on a wood-burning hearth without the assistance of any modern kitchen technology (exception: boiling water). The price is $150 a head, or $225 with booze, and there's room for up to a dozen diners at a time for a single 8:00 seating. Click for larger versions.


The evening's welcome cocktail was a version of the Schuylkill Fishing Company's venerable Fish House Punch, comprised of cognac, Jamaican rum, peach brandy, oleo saccharum, and black tea. I found it an appropriate apéritif, with its flavors of sweet tea, spice, citrus, and counterbalancing bitterness doing an admirable job in perking up the palate.


1: RABBIT SCHNITZLE | Santa Barbara sea urchin
marc hebrart, champagne premier cru, 'cuvee de reserve' NV
Serving as a sort of amuse bouche, our first course brought out rabbit schnitzel, fried in beef fat and topped with Santa Barbara uni, chive, lemon zest, caraway, dill, and a little bit of crème fraîche. It was meant as an ode to the many Jewish flavors found in American cookery, and was quite tasty to boot, the crunchy, savory fritter meshing well with its lush, creamy, citrusy accompaniments. Note also the handmade pottery, sourced from Idyllwild and Pioneertown out in the California desert. In the heart-shaped vessel we had our wine pairing, a robust, full-bodied Champagne with healthy amounts of toast and yellow fruit along with some heat and a bit of oxidation on the nose.




2: WINTER IN THE RAW
patrice colin, chenin blanc, 'pierre a feu', coteaux de vendomois 2017
Next came a selection of three raw seafood preparations. We were instructed to consume in the following order:

• Ridgeback Prawns - From Santa Barbara, done up with serrano oil and blood orange. I found the shrimp super creamy and clean, and well accompanied by that citrusy sauce with its growing, lingering heat.
• Dungeness Crab - Dressed with crab back butter and benne seeds. Excellent sweet, luscious brine here, perfectly accented by the nuttiness of sesame.
• Spanish Mackerel - Line caught off the coast of North Carolina, garnished with a young ginger vinaigrette and chives. My favorite of the threesome, the fish was soft, delicate, and worked great with the zestiness of ginger. I loved those crispy, savory bits on top (fried garlic?), too.

To pair with the course, we had a fresh-tasting Loire Valley Chenin Blanc, one with some saline, astringent, vegetal flavors evened out by a bouquet of rich fruit notes.


3: LIVE SCALLOP | new england clam chowder, caviar
domaine danjou-banessy, macabeo, 'coste', cotes catalanes 2017
This course was inspired by the bountiful amounts of seafood available in North America prior to commercial overfishing. We had freshly-shucked scallop, set in a boiled down chowder and crowned with Passmore Ranch sturgeon caviar. The scallop itself was wonderfully caramelized, and had a permeating sweetness that linked up with the umami notes from the chowder. Accenting it all, meanwhile, were the salty pops of that caviar. To drink, we had a Macabeu (typically used to make cava). I found it stone-y, saline, and mineral-driven on the nose, while the palate was surprisingly full-bodied, with bright, fresh grassy flavors joined by caramel and just a smidge of oxidation.


4: CORNMEAL DUMPLING | leather britches, pot likker
valentin morel, trousseau, cotes de jura 2016
Here we had a dish inspired by corn preparation techniques that early European settlers gleaned from Native Americans: a dumpling made from Anson Mills cornmeal, served with a pinch of sea salt and Appalachian-style preserved green beans stewed down with ham hocks. It smelled great, and conveyed a plethora of heady, hammy, bitter, vegetal flavors that married seamlessly with that gritty-yet-delicate fritter--super cozy. As for the wine, it was sort of a polarizing one. The nose went in a decidedly meaty, savory direction, and some of my dining companions likened the aroma to that of dried blood. The taste, though, was something altogether different, and I got a good amount of bright red fruit, some flowers, and a marked peppery component.


5: OYSTER ROASTED IN TINDER | cured mullet roe
weszeli, gruner veltliner, 'langenlois', kamptal 2017
A lone Wellfleet was topped with a cured mullet roe butter (sourced from Cortez Bottarga out of Florida's Gulf Coast), which was subsequently melted by burning plum wood chips. The end result was a super rich, super buttery presentation of oyster, but one also smartly balanced out by the astringency and smoke from the tinder. As for the paired Grüner Veltliner, it was fresh and fruit-forward on the nose, with a trace of crisp minerality. The palate, meanwhile, showed off a bracing acidity and a somewhat effervescent character, along with succulent fruit, grass, and stone.



6: MAPLE PRESERVED CRANBERRIES | shrub, cider
A palate cleanser course was inspired by Native American techniques for preserving fresh cranberries in maple. It was a superb respite from the heavier flavors we were having thanks to its robust sweet-tart berry flavors, augmented by the sugariness of a maple shrub while the Shacksbury cider offered up an effervescent contrast.


7: MAINE LOBSTER | carolina gold rice middlins
brezza, nebbiolo rosato, langhe 2017
Hearty chunks of Maine lobster were cooked in a brandy stock with veal and copious amounts of boiled down shell. This just might've been the most robustly-flavored preparation of lobster I've ever encountered, with the crustacean coming out almost unimaginably earthy and briny and buttery. Thus, the middlins (broken rice created as byproduct of grit production) were absolutely crucial for contrast, and actually had a light, "fluffy" consistency that I enjoyed. The accompany rosé wine was a fun one, giving up floral, fruity, almost candied notes layered over a boozy astringency.



8: BEEF TEA | winter bouquet
Apparently, beef tea functioned as a sort of 18th century cure-all. We were instructed to let the tea steep for a minute, to really draw out the flavors of hon-shimeji and the bouquet garni. It was an invigorating drinking experience to be sure, with an in-your-face beefiness and depth accented by strong thyme notes and an undercurrent of woodsy 'shrooms.


9: THREADFIN SOLE MEUNIER AMANDINE | roasted on the bone, to be eaten by hand
kabaj, ribolla gialla, goriska brda 2014
A meunière amandine preparation of sole was meant to reference early America's reverence for French cuisine. Served bone-in, the fish featured soft, meaty, buttery flesh enrobed in a nutty, gritty, slightly bitter crust incorporating roasted and ground almonds. This was even better with a squirt of the included lemon. As for the paired wine, it was arguably the most interesting of the night, showing off an almost cider-like quality with lots of funky, earthy notes alongside tannic and acidic elements.


10: VEAL OLIVE | sweetbread, dungeness crab, madeira
bodegas barbadillo, oloroso sherry, 'cuco' NV
Here was a variation on a recipe ostensibly cribbed from Martha Washington's cookbook, one describing thin-pounded veal stuffed with crab or oysters, formed into an olive then roasted. F&F's version comprised roasted veal sweetbreads finished on the grill, layered on top of a crab salad lightly dressed with citrus. The sweetbreads were among the most delicate and nuanced I've ever tasted, and I appreciated the brightness imparted by the crab, all while the slightly sweet Madeira sauce helped bind everything together. And the accompanying sherry? Think funky, musty, salty, nutty, with a touch of caramel and dark fruit.


11: LIBATION
Here was an intermezzo of sorts, designed to brighten up the palate prior to the main course. A combination of white port, tonic, and grapefruit oil, the drink has a super intense aroma of citrus, one that I smelled immediately when the glasses were brought into the dining room. Its palate, meanwhile, was refreshing and effervescent, displaying a welcomed port complexity accented by lively pricks of grapefruit.


To go along with our main course, we were each provided spoonbread, a sort of cornmeal soufflé that I found light and airy, though substantially salty.



12: ROAST BEEF | root cellar vegetables
eladio piñeiro, tempranillo, 'la coartada', alentejo 2007
The evening's pièce de résistance was the English staple of roasted beef. It was an impressive looking specimen, and ate soft and succulent, with a lovely char character to boot. We definitely didn't leave hungry after this. Along with the meat came a glass of Tempranillo. I got a distinct vegetal aroma on the nose, along with some savory and anise-y elements. The palate, meanwhile, gave up a berry-fueled sweetness with more fennel-like and herbaceous notes.


Accompaniments to the beef included a rich beef jus, Maldon salt flakes, and a fantastic housemade prepared horseradish.


Above we see root vegetables that had been stored underground for a month, naturally curing. I found 'em hearty and substantial, with lots of what I believe was thyme.


The creamed mashed potatoes were some of the best I've had in a long while.


13: ORANGE CITRUS | sweet cream
domaine bordenave, gros manseng, 'le copains de'abord', jurançon 2013
Dessert paired bright, juicy citrus with a base of sweet cream, and the resulting combination was almost Creamsicle-like. It matched up swimmingly with the paired Gros Manseng, which featured sweet, honeyed tropical fruit notes balanced by a persistent acidity--a fun one.


14: CONFECTION
Rich, sugary dates with brown butter served as our mignardise course.


With dinner done with, we headed over to the Old Man Bar for a nightcap.


We were provided with a complimentary pour of Old Forester Single Barrel bourbon, which came from a barrel exclusively selected for Hatchet Hall. I got a sweet nose of caramelized stone fruit joined by a hint of vanilla. The palate was pretty viscous, and showed off more candied fruit on top of barrel notes and heat, while the finish conveyed a bit of oaky astringency.

Fuss & Feathers managed to be one of the more intriguing, more cerebral dining experiences I've had in recent times. Prior to this, I hadn't really thought deeply about the origins of "American" food--where it came from, and why it's the way it is--so it was great to have a bit of a history lesson with each course. I have to say that I wasn't feeling all that well during dinner, and so I think I would've enjoyed the meal even more had I been at 100%. I suppose that gives me an excuse to return. And speaking of returning, apparently Dunsmoor and company want to transform the Fuss & Feathers dinner series into a standalone restaurant, one that will feature a tasting bar wrapped around an exhibition hearth. I'll be looking forward to that if it ever comes to fruition.

Gangnam House (Buena Park, CA)

February 4, 2019, 8:05 pm

≫ Next: Ham Ji Park (Buena Park, CA)

≪ Previous: Fuss & Feathers at Hatchet Hall (Los Angeles, CA)

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Gangnam House at The Source
6950 Beach Blvd, Buena Park, CA 90621
714.523.1010
www.gangnam-house.com
Mon 02/04/2019, 08:05p-10:25p





Driving along Beach Blvd north of the 91 freeway, I'd passed by The Source numerous times, but only made it a point to check it out recently. Launched at the start of 2017, the half-a-million square foot dining-slash-entertainment destination features a variety of retailers and restaurants, as well as an eight-screen 4DX CGV Cinemas, office space, and a seven-story Hilton hotel (coming soon). After exploring the complex for a bit, we made our way up to the third floor to dine at Gangnam House, a Korean BBQ spot that opened in September 2017.


Inside, things are clean, contemporary, and quite gray.


As for the menu, Gangnam House tends toward higher-end KBBQ cuts, while a limited selection of non-BBQ staples is also available. We ended up going with a combo, and one thing I really appreciated was the ability to add on smaller portions of meat to supplement (which I'm not sure if I've ever seen before). Drink-wise, there are your typical Korean beverages, as well as spirits and wine. Corkage is offered at $35. Click for larger versions.


Three dipping sauces...


...Are joined by two types of salt. The darker one was infused with jalapeño I believe.


Sinsa-Dong Combination (Small) [$59.99] | Aged Boneless Short Rib, Marinated Boneless Short Rib, and Thinly Sliced Brisket
We began with one of the combos, all of which are named after neighborhoods in Seoul's tony Gangnam District.


The salad was par for the course.




Tonight's chadol seemed fattier and more flavorful that what you typically get, while texturally I found the meat somewhat chewier (but not in a bad way). A good start.


The ubiquitous baechu kimchi worked as advertised.


To drink, we had a bottle of the 2014 Achával-Ferrer Malbec Finca Altamira. I got a heady nose filled with aromatic berry fruit, flowers, and smoke, while the palate was concentrated, displaying spice, herb, more dark fruit, and tobacco notes alongside a lively acidity. The wine was quite enjoyable overall, and really did stand up to all the meat we were having.


The yangpa muchim ate crunchy and astringent, and served as an effective counterpoint to the BBQ.


You'll want to try wrapping the meat in the provided ssam mu (pickled radish).




The kkotsal was the most tender, most succulent cut we had tonight. Its flavors were delicate and clean, and matched surprisingly well with a dab of that aforementioned jalapeño salt.


Gosu kimchi (cilantro) was super bright and zesty, and worked beautifully as an accent to the beef.


I found the doenjang jjigae extra meaty, though more toned down in terms of the actual soybean paste.


Slivers of potato were delightfully crunchy, while flavors were on the creamier side, almost recalling potato salad.




The jumulleok was less marinated than most preparations I've encountered, with the sesame oil serving more of a supporting role here. Not quite what I was expecting, but still not bad.


Tomatoes were properly juicy, and came dressed in a sauce that I believe combined gochujang with ketchup. Nice lingering spice on this one, too.


Sukjunamul showed off vibrantly vegetal flavors against a background of sesame oil.




Beef Tongue [$15.99]
We ended up tacking on an order of hyeo mit gui. The tongue ate a bit tougher than I'd prefer, though flavor-wise it was what I was looking for.


The japchae incorporated soft, slick strands of dangmyeon and plenty of soy sauce.


The complimentary dessert takes the form of a nougat ice cream bar (limit one per person). A fun ending.

Though the meal wasn't without its flaws, we were generally pretty satisfied with Gangnam House, and I'm somewhat curious about trying a few of the other cuts of meat on offer. Service wasn't bad, either (and yes, this is one of those places where the servers cook for you). In the end, I can't complain about having another solid Korean BBQ option in the area.

Ham Ji Park (Buena Park, CA)

February 5, 2019, 8:20 pm

≫ Next: Cevichería Nais (Santa Ana, CA)

≪ Previous: Gangnam House (Buena Park, CA)

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HamJiPark Restaurant
5350 Beach Blvd, Buena Park, CA 90621
714.521.8945
Tue 02/05/2019, 08:20p-09:50p





If we're talking about Koreatown restaurants, Ham Ji Park has got to be one of the most iconic of the bunch. From what I gather, the original Arlington Heights location (4135 W Pico) was founded in 1993 by Chef Kim Hwa-shin and her husband Kim Young-sun, while the second, more popular West 6th outpost was opened in 2002 by Kim and her daughters Eunji Kim and Mimi Cho (née Kim). Given the success of those restaurants, I'm surprised that it took until May 2016 for the third Ham Ji Park to debut in Buena Park, one of the two epicenters of Korean activity in Orange County (the other being Garden Grove). The owners here are Mimi and her husband Won Dae "Adam" Cho. The couple later expanded to Rowland Heights in June 2017, though that location has since closed.


The restaurant takes over an address that was previously home to Mr.6 Tabletop Grill, an AYCE KBBQ joint that featured gimmicky translucent stone grilling surfaces; before that, the building housed a Denny's, which opened circa 1994. Decor-wise, things haven't really changed since the Mr.6 days, which isn't a bad thing. It's a pretty attractive space, and pictured above is one of the two main dining areas (the one closer to the street).


As far as the menu goes, it's pretty much identical to that of the K-town location, though I do notice the addition of Sea Salt Pork Spare Ribs, which I'm mildly curious about. The beverage situation is about the same as well, while corkage is offered at $25. Click for larger versions.


Our first of six banchan was the baek-kimchi, which came out bright and crunchy, with a subdued spice as expected.


The cucumber-based oi kimchi showed off a pliant-yet-crisp consistency along with a relatively restrained heat.


To drink, we had the NV Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Demi-Sec. The wine smelled of ripe apple and honey, alongside a hint of biscuit. Meanwhile, it tasted lush and sweet, with brown sugar and vanilla notes joined by a touch of tropical fruit--pretty tasty overall. I don't encounter demi-secs all that often these days, so this was a welcomed change of pace, and stood up well to the aggressive flavors of the food we were having.


I had no complaints with the kongnamul muchim (soybean), which was super well-seasoned, with a nice chew to boot.


Kkakdugi (cubed radish) was softer and sourer than usual.


Pork Spare Ribs [$24.99]
Naturally, we had to get Ham Ji Park's signature dwaeji galbi, and the dish was right on the money tonight. As regular readers will know, I'm quite sensitive to sweet in my savories, so I'm always impressed at how the sweetness of the pork ribs is so balanced. It's a great combination of that aforementioned sweetness, along with porky funk, a touch of heat, and the bitterness of all those charred bits. Texturally, I found the meat generally tender, but with just enough chew to make things interesting.


Pickled carrot, onion, and broccoli were paired with a gochujang dressing.


The hobak muchim conveyed a subdued sweetness from the squash, as well as a persistent earthiness that I appreciated.



Pork Neck Stew with Potato [$24.99]
Next up was Ham Ji Park's other signature dish: gamjatang. Long-cooked pork was falling-apart tender, and worked hand-in-hand with the more gelatinous, cartilaginous parts of the meat. In terms of taste, the amount of heat was just right for me, and kept my focus squarely on the pork. Also key was the use of what I believe was ginger, which imparted a superb zestiness to the dish, one augmented by the application of green onion. Add to that the heartiness of potato, and you have a very tasty soup indeed.


The salad was well-dressed and better than many that I encounter. A good foil to all the heady flavors we were enjoying this evening.

Our meal tonight was pretty much spot on--I had no complaints. A lot of people say that this Ham Ji Park's not quite as good as the one in K-town. Maybe it isn't, but it's close enough that I would have a hard time telling the difference, and the reduced waits are an added bonus. In any case, while writing this post, I actually discovered that Mimi and Adam, in partnership with one John Lee, opened up a fifth Ham Ji Park back in October last year, this one in Honolulu's Koreamoku neighborhood. The couple seems to have growth on the mind, so it'll be interesting to see where they expand to next (the South Bay comes to mind).

Cevichería Nais (Santa Ana, CA)

February 8, 2019, 8:20 pm

≫ Next: Accomplice Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

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Cevicheria Nais
224 E 3rd St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
657.231.6005
Fri 02/08/2019, 08:20p-11:40p





I first found out about Cevichería Nais a few months ago, while I was walking around Downtown Santa Ana after dining at a nearby restaurant. After checking out their menu online, I decided to pay the place a visit. Nais opened in May 2018, and was originally the brainchild of Daniel Godinez, an OC Chef who first made a name for himself over at modern Mexican eatery Anepalco in Orange. He later went on to open El Mercado Modern Cuisine in Santa Ana (Sep 2016) and Maestro in Pasadena (Jan 2017), though he has since left both establishments and is currently involved in a lawsuit with his partners at El Mercado. Now that didn't deter me from trying out Nais, but while at dinner, I discovered that Godinez has since been bought out by one of his partners, and is no longer part of this business either. He still does own both locations of Anepalco though.


Cevicheria Nais occupies a space in the Festival Hall building that was previously home to the likes of Diego's Rock-n-Roll Bar & Eats, Diego's, and Cafe Azteca. There's a lot of blue inside, which makes sense given the place's seafood focus. On a related note, the underground bar/lounge next door is also owned by the folks behind Nais.


As for the menu, you'll find a good selection of mariscos standbys, along with Nais' take on sushi, which was more unexpected. Drink-wise, we opted for cocktails, though beer is also offered of course. Click for larger versions.


Strawberry-Mango Margarita [$12.00]
Our first cocktail was an off-the-menu drink comprising three ounces of tequila along with mango and strawberry. I found it as fruity as it looked, with the booze well hidden--this one could be dangerous.


Tortilla chips arrived with a decidedly smoky salsa.


Pulpo Tostada [$12.00] | tomato/chile serrano/cilantro/puya oil
Our first dish was a standout. The octopus ate tender, yet substantial, and I got a great back-and-forth between the chilies and the creaminess of avocado. Very well put together overall.


Calamari al Mojo de Ajo [$11.00] | Fried/squid/garlic butter/chile de arbol oil
Fried squid showed off a pleasantly light batter along with some sour, salty, cheesy flavors and a hint of heat for good measure.


Del Jefe [$13.00] | Union Mezcal, olmeca reposado y liquor 42, peach bitters
Our next cocktail displayed a nose of smoke and herb, along with an undercurrent of fruit. Taste-wise, I found it warm and sweet at its base, while some bitter, boozy, medicinal notes came in later, the whole thing finishing sweet again.


Ceviche Mixto [$14.00] | Includes: tomato/cilantro/cucumber/oregano/onion
The ceviche ate fresh 'n' clean, with a strong cilantro component. However, I wanted more heat, more acidity in the dish to really make it pop.


Tostadas served as a much appreciated accompaniment for both the ceviche and the aguachile below.


Shrimp Aguachile [$12.00] | Includes: jalapeno/lime/cucumber/red onion/avocado
The aguachile featured plump shrimp, along with plenty of bright, acidic flavors, though less heat than I was expecting (which I didn't necessarily mind).


Raspberry Cosmo [$10.00] | Ketel One vodka, fresh raspberry, lime juice, berry liqueur
Nais' take on the cosmopolitan featured boatloads of sweet berry, but the cocktail also had plenty of potency from the vodka to make for some semblance of balance.


Now normally, you get three tacos of the same type for $11, though the kitchen was kind enough to provide a three taco sampler for the same price this evening.


Pescado del Dia | Baja Style/avocado/cabbage/cream
The classic fish taco worked it out for the most part. The pescado was spot on texturally, and the combination of crema and cabbage certainly delivered. I would've preferred some slightly more aggressive seasoning on the actual fish, though.



Piña Tatemada [$11.00] | Union mescal, piña rostisada, juice de caña, lemon juice
This next cocktail came with some theatrics, as we see in the photos above. Fire and flame aside, the drink delivered, displaying smoky and spicy nuances alongside plenty of tropical pineapple flavors.


Shrimp a la Mexicana | Pico de gallo/micro cilantro
Fortunately, the actual shrimp here weren't overcooked as I'd feared, but instead conveyed an apparent brine that made sense with the brightness of the paired salsa.


Calamari Frito | Manchego cheese/cilantro
The squid tasted very similar to that of the Calamari al Mojo de Ajo above. I found it a somewhat unusual taco filling, but it was still pretty tasty nevertheless, with a definite richness from the Manchego.


The kitchen had closed by this point, so we tried a few items from Nais' late night menu, which is apparently available on Fridays and Saturdays only. Click for a larger version.


Borracho Loco [$12.00] | Don Julio blanco, mango purée, lime juice, dulce de tamarindo
The tequila was again well hidden in this next cocktail. Instead I got lots of fruity mango all over the place, along with a hit of sweet-tartness from the tamarind.


Barbacoa Taco [$1.50]
The barbacoa was super tender, and had a sweet-savory flavor profile that was almost mole-like. Quite nice with the zestiness of the onions and cilantro.


Pastor Mulita [$2.50]
I was a fan of the mulita as well. The combo of spicy al pastor and cheese really hit the spot, and again, the onion worked great as an accent piece.


Cochinita Pibil Taco [$1.50]
The pork was even more tender than the barbacoa above, while its taste veered more in a tart, acidic direction.



Dessert Cocktail [$12.00]
We concluded with an off-menu dessert cocktail. Unfortunately, I don't recall what was in here, but I do know that it incorporated Licor 43. Flavors were almost horchata-like I'll say, and I loved the warm spiciness imparted by the liqueur.

Though there were quibbles with some of the dishes, I did enjoy my meal here for the most part, and I'm glad to have Nais as another dining option in DTSA, which is quickly becoming one of my favorite eating neighborhoods in Orange County. Curiously though, I was chatting with one of the partners over the course of dinner, and he mentioned that he was planning on streamlining the menu and adding meat, resulting in a new restaurant he called "La Santa." However, from what I've seen so far, La Santa opened at the start of March, and appears to be a "cantina" type concept located upstairs. Thus, it seems like Cevichería Nais will be sticking around, at least for now.

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Accomplice Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

February 20, 2019, 7:50 pm

≫ Next: Blackship (West Hollywood, CA)

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Accomplice Bar + Food
3811 Grand View Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90066
310.574.7610
www.accomplicebar.com
Wed 02/20/2019, 07:50p-09:35p



I was looking for somewhere to have dinner in the Mar Vista area recently, and ended up at Accomplice. If you recall, the place opened in July 2016 as an addendum to Chef David Kuo's newly-revamped restaurant Status Kuo (the space was a real estate/insurance/income tax place previously). However, in November that year, Status Kuo morphed into "Taiwanese soul food" spot Little Fatty, and Accomplice was spun off as its own thing, though the two entities are still attached to one another.



Drink-wise, you'll want to stick with the cocktails, which are definitely the main attractions here. A small amount of beer and wine is also offered. As for the food menu, it's pretty much exactly what you get at Little Fatty next door, i.e. Kuo's version of staple Chinese and Taiwanese dishes. Click for larger versions.


Wontons (8pc) [$13.00] | shrimp, pork, chili vinaigrette
We began with what seemed to be the Chef's take on the Sichuan classic hong you chao shou. The actual filling of shrimp/pork skewed underseasoned unfortunately, though the sweet heat and depth from the chili vin definitely made up for any semblance of blandness. Texturally, the wonton skins were properly thin, and I also got a welcome brightness and freshness from the herbs up top.


Squid Ink Xiao Long Bao [$13.00] | shrimp, pork, ginger
The xiaolongbao didn't quite meet expectations. I had the same issue as above with the filling being rather nondescript, while the squid-ink infused skins had an almost sweet sesame-like taste that didn't really work for me. The included dipping sauce, meanwhile, was lacking in the acidity you typically find with your traditional vinegar-based condiment.


the matchmaker [$16.00] | rice washed kikori - yuzu liqueur - coconut rum - matcha - aguafaba
Our first cocktail was a riff on the whiskey sour. I definitely got the advertised ricey notes from the Kikori, especially on the nose, and it seemed to mellow out the whiskey a bit, while the pairing of tart yuzu and tropical coconut made sense. Lovely lingering bitterness on the finish from the green tea, too.


Asian Greens [$11.00] | garlic, ginger, fried shallots
An unidentified hodgepodge of greens satisfied for sure, the bitterness of the veggies beautifully matched by savory notes of garlic. I got a nice crunch from the bok choy as well, and didn't mind those fried shallots, either.


Mapo Tofu [$13.00] | shimeji mushrooms, meiji tofu
We returned to Sichuan with the mapo doufu. I appreciated the texture of the tofu here, but found the paired sauce far too sweet. It was also lacking in heat, and I couldn't detect any mala at all.


randall's milk punch [$14.00] | scotch - soy milk - creme de banane - demerara - nutmeg
I can't seem to resist ordering the milk punch when I see one on a cocktail list, so here we are. Accomplice's was very good, especially with its super silky mouthfeel, while flavors were sweet and spicy (and vaguely reminiscent of coffee liqueur), with the unmistakable earthiness of the whisky making itself known on the back end.


XO Fatty Noodles [$13.00] | rolled chow fun, XO sauce, bean sprouts, garlic chives
This next dish incorporated zhu chang fen, which was a bit unexpected, but I really enjoyed the noodles' soft, delicate, yet substantial texture. In terms of taste, there was this healthy dose of umami from what I believe were dried shrimp that really hit the spot, while at the same time, the bean sprouts provided an offsetting freshness and crunch.


Sizzling Black Pepper Beef [$19.00] | filet mignon, fried egg, onions, market greens
The black pepper beef missed the mark. There was surprisingly little of the actual black pepper, and more concerningly, the kitchen was heavy-handed with the salt/soy; the actual taste of the meat was pretty much masked. I will say that the salad did help provide a modicum of balance.


down under [$13.00] | underberg - red bean orgeat - diplomatico reserva - lemon
Described on the menu as an "herbal sour," this next cocktail has this invigorating sort of character to it that I appreciated. The main flavors I got were medicinal, licorice-like, with some root beer-esque elements, and these worked handily when layered over a base of that dark rum and red bean orgeat.


Kung Pao Chicken [$13.00] | squash, dobujang sauce, peanuts
The gongbao jiding was enjoyable. Texturally, the chicken was on point, as were the peanuts, and I didn't mind the use of squash here, either. I appreciated the depth and savoriness from the doubanjiang, though again, I wanted that mala numbness.


Sweet & Sour Pork Chop [$17.00] | sesame seeds, scallion, sweet house glaze
Our final savory dish was listed under the "snacks" section of the menu, which I don't quite understand given its substantial size. In any case, the pork came out fairly tender, with a pretty crisp batter, while flavors were very familiar--not too sweet, not too sour--but also a bit one-note and monotonous unfortunately.


i miss us [$14.00] | tullamore dew - ahus akvavit - gran classico - genepy - lemon - orange - yuzu sparkling sake
Last to drink was this tiki-inspired cocktail. I got lots of mint and citrus at first blush, while flavors in general were very soft, with a smidge of bitterness in the background. I was certainly a fan of the caraway notes from the aquavit, which lingered on the close.


Taro Ice Cream with Sesame Seed Balls [$8.00]
We made sure to try the sole dessert option. The actual jian dui were chewy-yet-crisp, and worked great with their filling of red bean, while I was even a bigger fan of that taro ice cream. A winning combination for sure.

I had no complaints with the cocktails tonight (in fact, I wish we could've sampled more of 'em), and Accomplice remains one of my favorite places to drink on the Westside. We weren't as enamored with the food though, which seems to have devolved since my last visit. It's almost like the kitchen has decided to tone down the intensity of the cooking, which is a shame. In any case, whatever they're doing, it seems to be working for them, as Little Fatty/Accomplice is expanding to the 98 Cents Plus Discount Store next door. In fact, they've already cut a doorway between the two buildings, and you should be able to expect an opening within the next few months. This should hopefully alleviate the almost inevitable wait times here.

Blackship (West Hollywood, CA)

February 22, 2019, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Mélisse (Santa Monica, CA) [3]

≪ Previous: Accomplice Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

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Blackship Restaurant
8512 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
310.734.7553
www.blackshipla.com
Fri 02/22/2019, 08:15p-10:45p





Opened on December 12th, Blackship has certainly been one of the buzzier WeHo debuts of the past year. The restaurant is part of Culinary Lab, the group responsible for the likes of Hinoki & the Bird and Rosaliné, as well as Pizzeria Ortica in Costa Mesa, Hollywood's Lost Property, and sports bar 33 Taps. Running the kitchen here is Chef Keiichi Kurobe, formerly of Hinoki, and his goal is to blend Italian and Japanese cuisines in a progressive manner. In fact, the restaurant's name is derived from kurofune ("black ship"), a term for Western ships arriving in Japan for the purposes of trade, which later led to the incorporation of Western ingredients and techniques in Japanese cuisine.

About the Chef: Keiichiro Kurobe was born in July 1985 in the United States, though he moved to Yokohama as a child, and attended Tokyo's Nishimachi International School. He returned Stateside in his teens, and from 2001 to 2004, went to New York's now-shuttered Park West, a high school built in 1978 that was actually known for its culinary arts program. He got his first real restaurant job at the start of 2002, working as a garde manger at BiCE, an Italian joint in the Shiodome area of Tokyo. Kurobe secured a position at San Francisco's Campton Place in March 2004, where he toiled under Daniel Humm and developed his passion for pasta. In July 2006, he transitioned to Hiro Sone's Ame at The St. Regis, and worked the line there until the end of the following year.

At the start of 2008, he went to Carme Ruscalleda's Sant Pau in Tokyo and served as a line cook and bread baker for two years. Kurobe's next move came in January 2010 when he became executive sous chef at Luce at The InterContinental San Francisco, where he met mentor Dominique Crenn. In July 2014, he secured his first Executive Chef position when he took over the kitchen at Chanson Restaurant at the Royal Blues Hotel in Deerfield Beach, Florida. That gig lasted under a year, and he subsequently relocated to Los Angeles to serve as exec sous for Brandon Kida at Hinoki & the Bird. Kurobe left the Century City eatery last year to start work on Blackship.



Located next to LA's first Shake Shack, the Knibb Design-penned restaurant features a well-vegetated patio area out front, which then leads to a cozy dining room and bar in the back; total capacity is around 100. Curiously, in the early 1970s the building was known as The Doors Workshop, and was where the band recorded L.A. Woman. Sometime later, it was home to Benvenuto Cafe (1992-2008), Mexico Restaurante y Barra (2009-2010), Tradition Tapas Kitchen/Forbidden Bar & Lounge (2011-2013), and L'Scorpion West (2013-2014).


Blackship's menu is pleasingly compact, divvied up simply into sections for sea/land/meat. To drink, you get a relatively brief wine list along with a smattering of beers and a mere four cocktails. Click for larger versions.


Japanese Riff [$15.00] | Orgeat, Cognac, Lemon, Bitters
As the name indicates, our first cocktail was a riff on what I believe was the classic sidecar. I found it quite citrusy and somewhat astringent, with the fruitiness of the orgeat coming in toward the back end.



Winter Squash Croquette [$5.00] | tomago, fontina, tonkatsu sauce
This schmancy looking fritter made for a solid start to the meal. I was afraid it'd be overly sweet, but it wasn't, instead showing off a base of spicy, autumnal flavors augmented by the bite of that sosu while the greenery on top worked to lift the dish. Superb contrast in textures here, too.


Rising Sun [$15.00] | Vodka, Lemon, Maple, Fig, Blood Orange, Orange Bitters, Soda
Our next cocktail was on the refreshing, effervescent side, with subdued fruity and bitter notes. What I found interesting here was the drink's almost savory character, probably from the maple I'm guessing.



Yellowtail Tuna Namerou [$18.00] | avocado, pickled wasabi, quail yolk, nori rice chicharron, trout roe
This tartare-like dish of namero featured umami-packed cubes of tuna married to the stinging heat of wasabi, all while the trout roe contributed pops of salinity and textural contrast. Avocado, meanwhile, moderated the interaction. As for that chicharrón, I found it almost impossibly light and fragile, the seaweed powder adding an unexpected depth.


Niku-Jaga Meatballs [$18.00] | "meat and potato", niman ranch beef, roasted baby carrots, nuka pickles
Here was the Chef's take on traditional nikujaga stew. The meatballs were hefty, and had this savory-sweet flavor profile going on that worked with the herbaceousness of Thai basil. Also key were the potatoes, which veered buttery, and I didn't mind the crunch and acidity from the nukazuke pickles, either. The most surprising thing here was that I swear I detected a little bit of mala-esque numbing in the dish.


Toki's Miracle [$15.00] | Campari, Sweet Vermouth, Japanese Whiskey
This reworked Negroni showed off the unmistakable bittersweetness of Campari for sure, and despite the substitution of Toki for gin, actually tasted really quite similar to the classic cocktail, but with perhaps a touch more booziness and weight.


Shungiku Gnocchi [$22.00] | brussels sprouts, brown butter dashi, pecorino
Texturally, the gnocchi were quite nice, coming out properly supple, and substantial but never heavy. The dumplings made sense with that brown butter-enriched dashi, as well as the additional oomph from the pecorino. Unfortunately, the char and bitterness from the Brussels were too strong for my liking, and tended to dominate the dish.



T.K.G. Arancini [$5.00] | umami soy
Here we had a thoroughly reimagined version of tamago kake gohan, a dish of rice topped with raw egg. I really enjoyed the crispness of the arancino, as well as the texture of the rice, while the egg imparted a much-needed lushness to the fold. However, there was this pervasive bitterness that was unexpected, and somewhat off-putting.


Commodore Perry [$15.00] | Gin, Pear Liqueur, Lime, Matcha, Simple Syrup
This cocktail was named after Commodore Matthew C. Perry, who was in command of the kurofune that opened up Japan for trade in the 1850s; in addition, "perry" also refers to pear cider. In any case, the drink conveyed a nose rife with green tea, lime, and pear, while the taste brought more of that pear to the forefront, along with a good amount of citrus, all while the back end was all about the botanicals of the gin.


Japanese Little Neck Tonjiru [$22.00] | miso brodo, kurobuta sausage, tuscan kale, nori garlic bread
Clams were pretty much spot on, arriving juicy and plump and saline, a smart pairing with the savory-salty nature of the sausage. Thai basil made another appearance here, and once again worked to brighten and lighten the dish. As for that toasty, garlicky bread, it was a treat as well (especially when soaked in that tonjiru broth), and we even took some home.


Hamachi Bolognese [$26.00] | casarecce, shiso, grana padano
Bolognese was given the Japanese treatment here, and the result was a version of the meat sauce that was thoroughly imbued with the oceany flavors of yellowtail. It was much more intense than any classic version of Bolognese I've had before, so the shiso was absolutely crucial. As for the pasta itself, it definitely had a gratifying bite, and functioned effectively as a base to the dish.


With all four cocktails sampled, we went for a glass of the NV Deutz, Brut Classic, Champagne, France [$24]. As the name states, this was a classic presentation of Champagne. I got appealing aromas of brioche and green apple, while flavors were again toasty, citrusy, with a mixture of sweetness and booze hiding underneath.


Kara-age Tortellini [$25.00] | crispy chicken, jidori chicken brodo, ricotta, green garlic
Tortellini were unfortunately on the tough side, and I didn't get too much from their ricotta filling either. The karaage, meanwhile, were well-textured, though slightly underseasoned. The combination of the two elements didn't quite work for me, though the earthy brodo did help things coalesce, and I was a big fan of that green garlic.


Hisho Caramel Miso Budino [$12.00] | Toasted Hazelnuts, Chocolate Pearls
The budino was pretty much as good as any I've had thanks to its rich, heady flavors of caramel and dark fruit that were perfectly matched by the toasty hazelnuts. A great ending.

Kurobe is fusing Italian and Japanese cooking in a way that I'm not sure I've seen before. The former cuisine tends to be heartier, more robust while the latter is oft known for its subtlety and finesse, so I think it can be tricky to meld the two. From what we ate tonight, it's clear that some mash-ups work better than others, which isn't surprising. I don't think the restaurant has quite hit its stride completely yet, but things are looking promising.

Mélisse (Santa Monica, CA) [3]

February 28, 2019, 8:10 pm

≫ Next: Irenia (Santa Ana, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Blackship (West Hollywood, CA)

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Melisse Restaurant
1104 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.395.0881
www.melisse.com
Thu 02/28/2019, 08:10p-12:00a





I didn't know quite what to think when it was announced late last year that Mélisse would be closing. Opened in July 1999 by Josiah Citrin, the contemporary French spot was one of the few bastions of fine dining left in Los Angeles, and seemed to be doing quite well. At the same time though, LA has been moving further and further away from traditional fine dining, so I understand if Citrin and his Chef de Cuisine Ken Takayama felt the need for a change. In any case, I made sure to pay the restaurant one more visit before its final night of service on March 2nd.


One last look at the main dining room, which was last remodeled in 2009.


For Mélisse's ultimate week of service, there was but one menu option: a seven-course selection of "greatest hits" priced at $175, plus $150 for wine pairing. We ended up skipping the pairing and getting bottles instead. Corkage is $50, but is waived if you buy off their list. Click for a larger version.


Our meal commenced with a palate cleansing amuse bouche: a blood orange-pomegranate soda infused with the restaurant's namesake mélisse. It was a fun little shot, with its refreshingly bright, sweet-tart flavors of citrus perked up by a mintiness from the lemon balm.


We had some Champagne to start, the Louis Roederer - "Cristal" - Reims, 2008. It smelled superb, giving up aromas of toast, chalk, lemon, and stone in perfect harmony. On the palate I got lots of brioche, along with pome fruit, some nuttiness, and a pleasant acidity, while the finish was all about elements of candied lemon with a tinge of minerality. This wine is drinking wonderfully now, and is more concentrated than most young Cristal I've tasted, but still has many great years ahead of it I'd wager.


The second amuse was a bigeye tuna tartare wrapped in avocado, with sorrel panna cotta and a yuzu vinaigrette. The course wasn't completely successful, as I felt that the fish was overpowered, first by the lushness of the avocado, then by the plethora of strong, onion-y notes present.


1: Egg Caviar | Soft Poached Egg, Smoked Lemon Crème Fraîche, Golden Osetra Caviar
Mélisse's well-known egg caviar dish certainly delivered. The key for me was the luxurious of that runny egg, and how it served as a stage for a back-and-forth between tart citrus, smoke, and salty caviar in particular, the cauliflower cream moderating everything. Loved that super flaky brioche on the side, too.



2: Mandarin Tomato Soup | Strawberry Sorbet
This was a study in contrasts, first in temperature, then in taste between the sweet-tartness of the strawberry and the cozy, savory, familiar nature of the soup.


At this point we began a progression of half-bottles, and first was the Chablis Grand Cru "Vaudesir" - Domaine Louis Michel et Fils, 2013 [$85]. Nose of grass, apricot, lemon, stone, and oak. Taste-wise, I got fresh, fruity flavors up front, commingled with some minerals, a bit of barnyard, and a persistent acidity. The wine was a bit more robust than I was expecting, and actually got quite buttery as it warmed.




Five types of bread were offered this evening: a classic ciabatta, a subtly smoky olive ciabatta, an unmistakably herbaceous basil brioche (great with that salty butter), a soft 'n' sweet brioche, and a wheat French roll.


3a: Stonington Maine Scallop | Salsify, Winter Peas, Morel Mushrooms, Green Garlic and Parsley
A lone scallop arrived perfectly cooked and caramelized, its brine well accented by the brightness of pea and zesty notes of green garlic, all while the morels provided an extra oomph to the dish. This was even better when taken with the wine above.


3b: Lobster Bolognese | Fresh Capellini, Sweet Basil, Truffle Froth
The pasta course was a crowd pleaser. Texturally, the capellini was on the softer side, which I didn't mind in this application, and the pasta worked swimmingly as a vessel for the tart, herby bolognese, which was punctuated by meaty bits of lobster and the overarching earthiness of truffle. This was also great with the Chablis, and in fact tended to emphasize the wine's sweeter notes.


Our next wine was the Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Chaumees" - Domaine Jean-Marc Morey, 2013 [$90]. I found the nose here somewhat astringent at first sniff, but with a fruit backing and touches of minerality. On the palate we had some lovely spicy notes, more fruit, some vegetal elements, stone, and a distinct grassiness.


4a: Almond Crusted Dover Sole | Corn, Chanterelles, Brown Butter and Scallion
Sole came out beautifully textured, with a definite springiness to its flesh, while the taste went in a delicately sweet direction, amplified by the brown butter. I was afraid that the combo of corn and chanterelle might be too much, but it actually served as an appropriate foil to the fish.



4b: Black Perigord Truffles [$50 Supplement] | Truffle Egg
Next came a duo of truffle courses. Our first was described by our server as a "soft-baked egg white cloud," with truffle sauce, brown butter-truffle froth, and shaved black Périgord truffle. As expected, the actual "cloud" was super light, almost airy, while flavors highlighted the timeless interplay between truffle and egg.


4c: Black Perigord Truffles [$50 Supplement] | Truffle Risotto
Here we had an aged Arborio rice risotto, with mascarpone, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and more of that brown butter-truffle froth. It's hard to go wrong with this set of ingredients, and indeed, the dish was just as gratifying as I'd imagined. I also appreciated the substantial, somewhat chewy consistency of the rice, which provided some textural interest.


For our final wine, we again stayed in Burgundy and went for the Nuits-Saint-Georges "Les Chaliots" - Domaine Michel Gros, 2015 [$100]. With this, I detected aromas that were on the medicinal, herbal-spicy, somewhat rustic side, with just a smidgen of fruit. The palate, however, was quite another story, and displayed elements of smoke, spice, game, and roast meat, perked up by pervasive tannins.


5a: California Lamb | Braised Lamb Ravioli, Tokyo Turnip and Porcini
And now we get into the heartier courses. Lamb was a standout, and one of the better preparations of the meat I've had in recent times. I just found it super tender, super juicy, and super flavorful, with a wonderful herby character to boot. I got a nice bitterness from the turnips, too.


5b: Snake River Farms Beef Coulotte | Braised Beef Cheek, Potato Galette, Carrot and Celeriac
In our final savory course, supple cuts of top sirloin showed off an unexpected sweetness, which actually matched up well with the pepperiness of the beef. As for the cheek, it had your usual dark, savory flavors, while the somewhat crunchy potato worked as an effective counterpoint in the dish. I also liked what I believe was horseradish here.


6: Chocolate | Coffee, Ricotta Cremeux and Hazelnut
Our first dessert featured a moist chocolate cake contained in a spherical shell, which meshed in classic fashion with flavors of hazelnut, caramel, and coffee, all while the ricotta worked to lighten the dish.


7: Moro Blood Orange | Heilala Vanilla Yogurt
The chocolate was followed up by a much lighter dessert, this one featuring familiar Creamsicle-like flavors, but with added tartness.


Finally, we have the evening's mignardises selection: thickly caramelized canelés, fruity macarons, salty-sweet bonbons, and tangy pâtes de fruits.

I was glad to make it out for one final meal at Mélisse. The food was by and large quite good, though admittedly, it's not the type of cooking that's exactly on trend these days. As for what the future holds, the staff informed us that the goal is to re-open in the fall with a completely new concept, though apparently the name will remain. While the updated Mélisse will certainly be a more casual affair, from what we were told, the team is also planning a more intimate, "chef's counter" sort of dining experience. So overall, there's a lot to look out for in the coming months.

Irenia (Santa Ana, CA) [2]

March 2, 2019, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Pasta Sisters (Culver City, CA)

≪ Previous: Mélisse (Santa Monica, CA) [3]

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Irenia Restaurant
400 N Broadway, Santa Ana, CA 92701
657.245.3466
www.ireniarestaurant.com
Sat 03/02/2019, 08:30p-11:00p



Since opening in mid-2016, Ryan Garlitos' modern Filipino spot Irenia has quickly become one of my go-to restaurants in Downtown Santa Ana, and in fact Orange County in general. I've been back here a number of times since my initial report on the place, so I figured that it might be time for another post.


The menu has been in pretty much continuous evolution since Irenia opened, though there are a few standby dishes that have never left. Drink-wise, we have Philippine-inspired cocktails, some beer, and an abbreviated wine list. Click for larger versions.


Buko Pandan [$12.00] | lambanog, pandan, lemon, coconut milk
We began with a vibrantly-hued cocktail ostensibly inspired by the Filipino dessert buko pandan. Though based on a potent distilled coconut spirit called lambanóg, this was easy-drinking, displaying a tropical, coconut-y sweetness married with grassy, aromatic notes of pandan.


Arroz Caldo [$7.00] | Rice porridge, fried garlic, chicharron, chile oil, ginger
The aroskaldo was a must-try for me, and didn't disappoint. It was a super cozy sort of dish, savory and gingery at its core, but with a delightful funk (patis perhaps?) and underlying heat. The salt and crunch of the chicharrones was much appreciated too, as was the brightness provided by the veggies. A superb start.


Lumpia [$4.00] | Ground pork, carrots, daikon, sweet chile sauce
Irenia's lumpia were just about perfect, and featured a savory, satisfying, familiar filling of pork and vegetables, all encased in a thin, crisp wrapper. They were delicious alone, but even better with a dab of that sour, vinegar-based dipping sauce on the side.


Purple Drank [$12.00] | gin, coconut rum, ube, pineapple
Our next cocktail conveyed the familiar sweetness of ube in concert with coconut, with the tartness of pineapple serving as a counterpoint.


Kinilaw [$17.00] | Ridgeback prawns, Hope Ranch mussels, avocado cream, winter citrus, radish, calamansi vinaigrette
The ceviche-esque kinilaw featured fresh, snappy prawns and mussels, set in an avocado cream sauce. Unfortunately, said sauce was a bit much, and tended to overwhelm the delicate flavors of the seafood. I did appreciate the zesty slivers of red onion here, as well as the juicy cuts of citrus, both of which helped lift the dish.


Nilagang Baboy [$7.00] | Pork bone broth, thumbelina carrots, turnips, napa cabbage
The pork stew definitely delivered, thanks to its homey, deep-yet-delicate broth, one smartly matched to the bitterness of the various veggies.


Emerald City [$11.00] | green guava infused vodka, lemon, basil
Taking its name from the city of Muntinlupa, this next cocktail was definitely on the refreshing side. I got loads of basil up front, along with sweet, "green" flavors cut by tart citrus.


Kamote [$14.00] | Fried Japanese sweet potato, pears, arugula, coconut cream, spicy peanuts, sorrel
Here was the most intriguing course of the evening. Coated in a rich, sticky, savory dressing, the kamote was tempered in its sweetness. It actually paired really well with the zestiness of arugula, while the pears imparted a juicy, tangy element. The coconut cream emphasized the sweeter notes in the dish, but even it wasn't domineering.


Adobo [$18.00] | Roasted pork belly, adobo jus, monggo, braised greens, spring onion
The adobo has been on the menu since pretty much day one, and for good reason. The belly arrived fork-tender, and showed off a bevy of dark, savory flavors, evened out by a touch of tartness. Bitter braised greens served as an effective foil to the meat, and I was a big fan of the moderating effect of those mung beans, too. Be sure to make use of the included rice as well.


Manila Mule [$12.00] | lambanog, lime, ginger beer, bitters
This riff on a classic mule cocktail showed off the potency of lambanóg, offset by the spiciness of ginger and a bit of bitterness on the back end.


Chicken Sa Gata [$17.00] | Chicken confit, coconut curry, yuchoy, pea tendrils, chile
We ended with the sa gatâ, effectively a coconut-y variation of adobo. The chicken was immensely, immensely flavorful, with a supple consistency and a wonderfully light, crispy, flavorful skin. It matched well with the included coconut curry, while the greenery imparted a necessary brightness to the mix. My only concern was that the bird was a touch dry in places.



Churron [$8.00] | Brûlée banana eggroll, jackfruit, cinnamon & sugar, lemon cream
Dessert duties were handled by this churro-turon hybrid. It was a fun combination for sure, with plenty of sweet spice working hand-in-hand with the banana, all while the jackfruit provided a textural element. Great crispness on the spring roll wrapper here, too.

I enjoyed yet another strong meal at Irenia this evening--just the latest in a long line--and that's the reason why I keep coming back here. I've enjoyed seeing how Garlitos' cooking has grown since the restaurant opened, and I hope that the place sticks around for a long time so I can keep on comin' back. An essential spot for OC I'd say.

Pasta Sisters (Culver City, CA)

March 11, 2019, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Ronan (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Irenia (Santa Ana, CA) [2]

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Pasta Sisters Restaurant
3280 Helms Ave, Culver City, CA 90232
424.603.4503
www.pastasisters.com
Mon 03/11/2019, 08:15p-10:10p





The Pasta Sisters story begins in Padova, a city in the Veneto region of northern Italy. Along with brother Carlo and older sisters Luisa and Patrizia (hence the restaurant's name), Executive Chef Paola Da Re spent considerable time helping their mother Maria Giovanna in the kitchen. Mom's recipes were captured in two diaries, and they formed the basis for many of the dishes at Pasta Sisters. Da Re, however, sort of stumbled into the restaurant business by accident. She moved to the US at the tail end of 2012 (sister Luisa was already here) to help care for the new child of her son Francesco Sinatra, who initially relocated to California to pursue a journalistic career. Now in Los Angeles, Da Re began private cheffing, then started making gnocchi for a restaurant in West LA. In 2013, on his way back from work one night (he boasts experience at Angelini Osteria, Madeo, and Factory Kitchen), Francesco happened upon a vacant strip mall storefront at 3343 W Pico in his Arlington Heights/Country Club Park neighborhood, and had the idea to start a pasta-focused eatery at the location.

The idea for Pasta Sisters was thus born, and the casual, take-out focused deli ended up opening in September 2015, with Francesco as CEO and Da Re's daughter Giorgia Sinatra as Creative Director. The Chef's sister Luisa also helped out, especially with desserts, and her other daughter Francesca assisted when necessary. Things were slow at first, but business boomed once the food media got a hold of the place. A second Pasta Sisters outpost was desperately needed, and in May 2017, it was announced that they'd be taking over the former Bucato building in the Helms Bakery complex (the Union team was supposed to occupy the space initially). After a relatively quick build-out, Pasta Sisters 2.0 ended up debuting on March 4th, 2018.



The old Bucato has been given a makeover by local firm Legaspi Courts Design and now sports a homier aesthetic. The restaurant spans 3,400ft², and there's seating for around 90 between the indoor space and two patios.


Menu-wise, you get the restaurant's signature mix-n-match pastas and sauces, along with a number of other non-pasta dishes. Alcohol is a new addition to this location, and your choices are limited to a small, all-Italian wine list and a couple beers. Click for larger versions.


To pair with the pasta, we opted for something sparkling to start, the Prosecco, Acinum, Veneto, Italy, nv [$8.50]. The wine showed off an appealing nose filled with green apple, lemon, and toast. Its palate was on the bright, crisp, acidic side, with a pear-like fruitiness to it, some minerality, and an apparent boozy backbone.


The bread arrived with a proper crustiness, and was surprisingly addicting.


Bottarga (Homemade Gnocchi) [$16.50] | dry Sardinian mullet roe, garlic, olive oil
The Chef is known for her gnocchi, and the dumplings didn't disappoint, coming out supple, light, and about as airy as you could reasonably expect, yet still robust. They matched swimmingly with the combination of herbs, garlic, and olive oil here, but the star was that bottarga, since it had a wonderful brine to it that really lifted the dish. In fact, I wish there were more of it sprinkled on the plate.


Bolognese (Fresh Tagliatelle) + Fresh Burrata [$12.50 + $4.99] | ground beef and aromatic vegetables slowly cooked in red wine and tomato sauce
The bolognese made for a cozy, familiar flavor profile, one blending rich, savory bits of meat with the tartness of tomato. It just made sense with its paired pasta, and I certainly appreciated the cool, lush contrast provided by the optional burrata. Great accent from the basil, too.


Clams (Fresh Spaghetti) [$15.75] | manila clams, olive oil, garlic, parsley
Spaghetti was decidedly firm, and in fact could be a bit too much for some diners. It wasn't a problem for me though, as the pasta served as a fitting foil to the salinity of those well-textured clams, in concert with plenty of herb, garlic, and olive oil of course.


Pesto (Penne) [$12.25] | pine nuts, basil, parmigiano reggiano, pecorino romano, garlic, olive oil
Penne was on the softer, stickier side, and worked as a suitable vessel for the bright, herbaceous, pleasantly nutty flavors of pesto.


Next to drink was the Organic Rosato - Terre Siciliane, Purato, Sicilia, Italy, 2017 [$7.25], a quaffable, refreshing wine brimming with lovely strawberry notes. It was accompanied by a glass of the Viognier, Feudo di Santa Tresa, Sicilia, Italy, 2017 [$8.95]. This one I found somewhat funky on the nose, with some citrus and stone fruit mixed in, while its palate showcased more of that fruit, along with a definite vegetal, grassy character.


Porcini Mushroom (Fresh Pappardelle) [$15.95] | fresh Italian porcini, cream, parsley
Wide ribbons of pappardelle were substantial and satisfying to the bite, with a marked "eggy" quality to them. They served as an apt stage for that creamy, woodsy mushroom sauce, perked up by bright bits of parsley.


Meat Lasagna [$13.25] | homemade pasta sheets, bolognese sauce, silky besciamella, parmigiano reggiano
The lasagna ate as homey and hearty as it looked, a rather hefty combination of beefy and tart tomato flavors, tied together by the richness of cheese and béchamel.


Hand Made Ravioli [$15.95] | filled with stracchino cheese in a butter sauce and fresh basil
A special dish for the week, ravioli were loaded with bountiful amounts of salt, butter, and cheese, making for a surprisingly decadent eating experience, one punctuated by zesty notes of basil.


Nutella Pie [$4.50]
Time for dessert. Our Nutella pie conveyed a balance of salty and sweet flavors, though I didn't really get much hazelnut, unfortunately.


Chocolate & Ricotta Pie [$4.50]
I preferred the ricotta pie, which I found light and subtly sweet, with a savory edge. This was basically an Italian version of cheesecake.

Pasta Sisters claims to serve a more authentic, more homemade style of pasta, and indeed, the plates they're putting out are probably not what you'll find at the majority of Italian restaurants here in the States. I'd say that the preparations are on the unfussy, unadorned side, and have a certain modesty to them. That straightforwardness, though, is what makes this place stand out, if that's something you're ok with.