Kyirisan (Washington, DC)

July 26, 2018, 8:10 pm

≫ Next: Plate by Plate 2018 (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: The Dabney (Washington, DC)

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Kyirisan Restaurant
1924 8th St NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.525.2383
www.kyirisandc.com
Thu 07/26/2018, 08:10p-11:20p





For the third and final dinner of my latest DC visit, I chose a lesser known restaurant that sounded interesting to me. Kyirisan was opened in March 2016 by Chef Tim Ma and wife Joey Hernandez and serves Asian-French fare in the northern portion of Shaw. A note about the name: it's formed from a combination of "Kun" (the generational name of the couple's three children) and the numbers 1-2-3 (yi-er-san) in Chinese.

About the Chef: Ma was born in 1978 to parents who immigrated to the US from Taiwan in the 1970s, and he grew up in the midst of their Chinese restaurant in Maumelle, Arkansas. The family eventually moved to New York in the 80s, where his uncle ran the well-regarded Paul Ma's China Kitchen in Yorktown Heights. Later on, they relocated to northern Virginia, and Ma attended Centreville High School in Fairfax County, where he excelled in math and science. Following, he chose to attend the Georgia Institute of Technology, majoring in electrical and computer engineering, and graduated from Georgia Tech in 2000 after spending five years there; he later went on to attain a master's degree as well. He then became a government contractor, working in engineering for Raytheon in Falls Church.

However, Ma was always drawn to the kitchen, and, after a sushi meal with his sister and brother-in-law in LA in 2006, declared that he wanted to have his own restaurant. His family was not pleased, but he pushed forward, moved to New York with Hernandez, and enrolled at the French Culinary Institute in 2008. During this period, he externed at David Chang's acclaimed Momofuku Ko, and upon graduating, cooked briefly in Saint Thomas. Ma and his now-fiancée subsequently returned to NoVa and opened their first restaurant in August 2009: Maple Ave in Vienna. Located in a former donut shop in a somewhat odd part of town, the spot started out slow, but eventually made a name for itself for its Asian-inflected new American cuisine. After leaving the day-to-day running of Maple Ave to CdC Nyi Nyi Myint, the couple followed up with Water & Wall in Virginia Square, Arlington. The restaurant bowed in November 2013, and was named after the NYC intersection where the two lived while the Chef was attending culinary school.

In 2014, the Mas began looking for a home for Kyirisan, and after passing on the location where The Dabney now resides, signed on for a space in the yet-to-be-built Shay apartment complex. February 2015 saw the duo leave Maple Ave (as did Myint, who joined Water & Wall), while the Chef kicked off the Gather + Feast supper club on Kickstarter a month later. In November that year, Ma teamed up with Michael Amouri of Caffe Amouri and launched Chase the Submarine (a sandwich shop named after his son) in Vienna. As for Kyirisan (its original name Freehand was nixed by the Sydell Group), it ended up debuting in March 2016 with Myint once again on board. Not long after, the place drew a 2.5 star review from The Washington Post's Tom Sietsema, while Michelin bestowed a Bib Gourmand in October 2016. Shortly after the Michelin nod, it was announced that Ma would be consulting on the menu for the upcoming Ten Tigers Parlor, a bar with Asian-y fare that ended up opening in December that year with Myint at the helm yet again.

Some bad news came in February 2017 with the shutter of Water & Wall, though that same month saw Kyirisan on Washingtonian's "100 Very Best Restaurants" list. In June 2017, Ma and company decamped from Ten Tigers, replaced by none other than Erik Bruner-Yang. Meanwhile, in November it was announced that Ma and Derek Brown (who's no longer involved, sadly) would be opening concepts inside the upcoming Eaton, a hotel project from Katherine Lo (daughter of Langham Hospitality Group chairman Ka Shui Lo). Chase the Submarine ended up closing the same month, while Michelin once again deemed Kyirisan Bib Gourmand worthy in October.


Kyirisan is located on the ground floor of The Shay apartment building and was penned by Grizform Design Architects, a local firm that was also responsible for Doi Moi, Estadio, and Fiola, among other projects. The space is supposed to have a homey sort of feel, with blue being the dominant hue it seems. Note also the "Cook Nook" in the photo above, a communal table that can accommodate up to a dozen diners.


Kyirisan's fusion-y menu is refreshingly brief, which I'm appreciating more and more these days. In addition to dinner, the restaurant also serves brunch on weekends, and has happy hour at the bar every day except Saturday. Drink-wise, you get a small array of cocktails along with a handful of beers/ciders, not to mention a compact wine list featuring smaller producers from France and the West Coast US. Corkage, meanwhile, is $25 a pop, with no limit on the number of bottles, which is nice. Click for larger versions.


Way Off Base [$15.00] | Mezcal, Scotch, Falernum, Lime, Bitters
The evening's first cocktail was a winner. I definitely got a smokiness on the nose, joined by plenty of contrasting citrus. Taste-wise, things were fruity from the falernum at first, but then the spicy, boozy nature of the mezcal-whisky combo made itself known on the finish.


Chinese Smashed Cucumbers [$7.00] | Crispy Garlic, Benne Seed, Fresno Chilies
Cucumbers were delightfully crunchy, their tart, refreshing flavors well matched by a smidgen of heat and the nuttiness of those sesame seeds. A fun, promising start.


Fried Okra [$12.00] | Cauliflower, Feuilletine, Cilantro Fish Sauce
Okra and cauliflower were doused with a heavy helping of fish sauce, which gave the dish a decidedly salty, savory funk. It was pretty intense, so I could've used some additional herbs or something to balance things out more. I also would've liked less cook and more crunch on the veggies.


Whiskey & Weird [$13.00] | Rye, Becherovka Herbal Liqueur, Sage Shrub
The next cocktail showed off a somewhat "eggy" aroma, with notes of sweet citrus and sage as well. Its taste was definitely on the sweet side, and not boozy at all, with some herbaceous notes providing a modicum of balance to the drink.


Tuna Carpaccio [$19.00] | Kabosu Shoyu, Thai Chilies, Ground Cherries, Avocado
Slightly gristly cuts of tuna certainly took on some umami notes from the shoyu, while the cherries added a surprisingly floral touch. I did get the citrusy character of the kabosu on the finish, but did feel that the dish needed some more acidity, more brightness to really make it pop.


Golden Tilefish [$22.00] | Bacon & Chive Dashi, Savoy Cabbage, Green Tomato
Tilefish was cooked just right, coming out properly flaky and flavorful, with a wonderfully crisp skin to boot. The dashi worked swimmingly as a complement, but the tomato, I will say, did seem a bit out of place.


Manhattan [$11.00]
The classic Manhattan cocktail made a worthwhile showing tonight. I got lots of bitters on the nose, along with moderating elements of dark fruit. In terms of taste, think spirit-forward, and quite spicy from the rye, the vermouth peeking through just a bit.


Hanger Steak [$23.00] | Green Tomato Salsa Verde, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Mint
Hanger steak was quite tasty, and made sense with the zippiness of its paired salsa verde. However, I wasn't as keen on the kohlrabi-turnip combination, as the root veggies just seemed bland here.


Duck Confit [$22.00] | Brussels Sprouts, Black Truffle Aioli, Apple Cider Gastrique
A duck confit was as rich as you'd expect, with lots of salty, savory flavors amped up even further by the char of Brussels and a restrained muskiness from the truffle. The cider gastrique did provided a touch of tartness to the mix, but overall the dish felt heavy and could've really used something to brighten it up.


"Unnamed Cocktail #1" | Rum, Tawny Port, Amaretto, Kalamansi
At this point, I asked my server (who was also a bartender) to whip up something on the fly, and this is what he came up with (which ended up being comped). It was a combination of Smith & Cross rum, ¼oz amaretto, and ½oz tawny port, along with kalamansi purée. Its aromas were citric and bitter, the richness of the port showing through. Taste-wise, I got the deep, caramel-y notes of the rum at first, joined by a bevy of sweet, nutty flavors that worked out surprisingly well.


I made sure to save room for the desserts, which basically follow the same theme as the savory menu. Click for a larger version.


Kabosu Lime Pie [$11.00] | Pistachio, Thai Basil, Gooseberry
This citrusy pie delivered. The tartness of kabosu was front and center, linking up beautifully with the pistachios while the crumbly crust served as a moderating element.


Cherry Sundae [$9.00] | Black Cherry Ice Cream, Puffed Buckwheat, Chocolate
The reimagined sundae was even better, and actually one of the stronger desserts I've had in DC. The ice cream was pretty marvelous by itself, but was even better when paired with the Nestlé Crunch-esque shards of chocolate. Excellent use of the buckwheat too as a nutty, crunchy component.


"Unnamed Cocktail #2" | Fernet, Arrack, Sweet Vermouth, Hopped Grapefruit Bitters
We ended with another complimentary cocktail from my server, and for this one I requested something that would work as a digestif. It was a combination of 1½oz Fernet Francisco, ½oz Batavia arrack, <½oz Carpano Antica, and Bittermens Hopped Grapefruit bitters. This one smelled enticingly spicy, but with a citrusy edge. On the palate, I definitely got the cola-like nature of the amaro, which was joined by other spicy, savory, herby flavors, making it a very suitable ending to the meal.

I had a lot of mixed feelings about my meal here. I feel like there were some good ideas, some intriguing ideas, but many of the dishes just fell short. Perhaps the kitchen simply wasn't in top form given the impending opening of Ma's restaurant inside the Eaton, which should be dropping in the coming weeks. The spot, called American Son, will be an all-day affair featuring the Chef's take on "comfort food," but informed by his immigrant background. It sounds pretty promising, and I may have to give the place a go on a future trip despite any misgivings I have about Kyirisan.

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Plate by Plate 2018 (Los Angeles, CA)

August 4, 2018, 6:00 pm

≫ Next: Kabob Palace 2 (Arlington, VA)

≪ Previous: Kyirisan (Washington, DC)

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Plate by Plate 2018 at City Market Social House
1145 San Pedro St, Los Angeles, CA 90015
www.platebyplate.org/la/
Sat 08/04/2018, 06:00p-10:00p





Project by Project recently hosted its 16th annual Plate by Plate charity tasting benefit at the brand spanking new City Market Social House. If you're not familiar with the organization, Project by Project is a 501(c)(3) non-profit centered on issues related to the Asian-American community. This year's theme was immigration (very timely given recent events), and proceeds from the event went toward OCA-GLA's Mentored Path to Citizenship Grant program, which assists people on their path to US citizenship. As always, Plate by Plate showcased the talents of some of LA's top restaurants as well as beverages from a number of purveyors, so without further ado...

Hint: Mouseover for bonus photos.


Executive Chef Andreas Roller of Patina threw me off a bit with that new, manly beard of his, but definitely scored some presentation points with his Aguachile of Hokkaido Scallop, Yellowtail, and Octopus.


L: Casey Chiu was one of the first to get her hands on a KazuNori hand roll. Pro tip: KazuNori usually sports the longest line at Plate by Plate, so try to hit up their station early.
R: Old school PbP alumna-slash-Board Member Michelle Ko with hubby Quan Phung.


Jason Tsai and Emily Lien's Macchiato won Best Drink honors with their trio of beverages: the intriguingly-hued and boozy Beauty and the East (Vodka, Butterfly Pea Flower Tea, Lychee, Mint), a fanciful Potted Plant Milk Tea, and a prototypical Cold Brew.


L: The power threesome: PbP National President Nirendran Kathirithamby, PbP LA Legal Counsel Tuyet Nguyen, and PbP Co-Founder Liliana Chen (a.k.a. the O.G).
R: PbP Events Teams Member Tiffany Tai channeling her inner ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.


Vivian Ku's new Joy in Highland Park is an offshoot of her wildly successful Pine & Crane in Silver Lake. Tonight the restaurant was doling out Hakka Mochi Served Warm with Peanut and Sesame Powders, as well as Pineapple Slushies.


The South Bay was in the house thanks to Gabi James. Chef Chris Feldmeier (ex-Moruno) was joined by owners Sara Gabriele and Adam Aro, and the team served up Gildas of various persuasions: regular, chorizo, and manchego.


L: Takashi Endo (SoCal Market Manager at Craft Imports) was on hand pouring Coedo's Marihana Session IPA and Shikkoku black lager.
R: The Pacific International Liquor/Silkroad station was manned by the always-tall Michael Russell, who had a pretty impressive array of sakes available. I like how they gave him a volunteer of comparable height this year.


A sneak peek at the VIP area.


Starry Kitchen's Nguyen Tran cooked up his signature Crispy Tofu Balls with Spicy Sriracha Aioli and donned his signature banana suit. And apparently, PbP Manager of Public Outreach Winnie Fong couldn't resist the B.


The Fruit Tomato Kimchi, Saikyo Miso Tofu Cream was the handiwork of Courtney Kaplan and Charles Namba from Echo Park darling Tsubaki.


Perennial Plate by Plate fixture Susan Hirasuna was all shy at first, but eventually capitulated.


Alexander's Steakhouse had a very non-steaky Summer Albacore Poke, Yuzu Soy Dressing, Cucumber, Myoga, Hijiki, Nori Goma, Wasabi going on, which was apropos for the hot weather we were having (don't mind the banana in the background). Anyone else bothered by the one missing fork?


L: Danielle Lew from Kikori Whiskey and her two tasty bartenders offered up two tasty cocktails this evening: The Balancing Act (Kikori, Yuzuri liqueur, Yakult, yuzu juice, simple syrup, egg white, garnished with a Japanese rice candy) and the Old Fashioned (Kikori, simple syrup, Angostura, cucumber & lime bitters, garnished with a Japanese cucumber & a shiso leaf).
R: No one I talked to at the event even knew that Monster Energy made a coffee drink called Caffé Monster, so I guess it's good for them to get their name out there.


Nick Erven without hair doesn't look like Nick Erven. That being said, he and GM Anthony Ko did a fine job repping the new Rappahannock Oyster Bar at ROW DTLA with their freshly-shucked Rappahannock River Oysters with Kimchi Mignonette and Awesome Sauce (a Vietnamese-style ceviche sauce). This was actually the first time I've seen an oyster bar type of setup at Plate by Plate, and hopefully not the last.


PbP volunteer William Truong got assigned to the funnest station, evidently.


Helmed by Nikki Reginaldo, the Kato station had a delightfully unconventional Smoked Duck and Leek Salad on offer, which is just what I'd expect from Jon Yao's team. And if that wasn't enough, I'm sort of digging that fist-to-the-chin pose.


Eric Bost's restaurant has been in the works for some time now, and still doesn't have a name. What he did have, though, was his Dungeness Crab, Tomato Seeds & Gelée, Seaweed Granité, one of the more progressive plates of the night and the runner-up in Plate by Plate's Best Dish contest (they lost by one vote!).


L: Here are Amy Ling and Paul Lee, whom we first encountered all the way back at 2012's Plate by Plate at the Vibiana.
R: Some more repeat customers: Konica Minolta Business Solutions' Charles Turner and wife Linda, who first came to Plate by Plate back in 2016.


L:Drake's Brewing Company made their first appearance at Plate by Plate, and I actually think it was my first time having their beer as well.
R:Riboli Family Wine Estates either had a tall volunteer or some short reps.


Executive Chef Brandon Kida is doing an admirable job steering the ship at Hinoki & the Bird these days, and this was his first time participating at Plate by Plate. He decided to serve dessert in the form of Miso Donuts with Honey Caramel.


The California Watermelon and Scallop from Morgan's in the Desert at La Quinta Resort & Club (part of the Waldorf Astoria family) may not have won Best Dish, but Executive Chef Andrew Cooper wins Best Smile in my book. He'd also win my "Longest Distance Travelled to Attend Plate by Plate for the First Time" award, if I had one.


L: PbP veteran Patrick Lee has moved on to greener pastures and is now the National Director of Volunteer Management. Also pictured (with new hairstyle): Michelle Chen.
R: On the flip side, we have here newbie Lisa Inouye, PbP Events Team Member & CASES Team Member.


Manned by Regional Manager Michael Lee, KazuNori once again sported the lengthiest queue at Plate by Plate. On the menu: Toro/Yellowtail/Crab/Salmon/Scallop/Cucumber Hand Rolls, all made to order (hence the wait), as well as Salmon Sashimi.


L: Yeekai Lim's Cognoscenti Coffee won runner-up in the Best Drink category with their Affogato (Brazil Yellow Diamond Espresso poured over Straus Creamery Ice Cream).
R:Labobatory founder Elton Keung was serving up some Taro Mezcal alcoholic boba. Their shirts also proved that Starry Kitchen doesn't have a lock on ball-themed slogans.


L: PbP Director of Marketing Lisa Xu with PbP Manager of Event Production Lilian Hwang.
R: More steering committee members: PbP Manager of Team Development Kent Chen (in a suit that looks slightly too large) with PbP Marketing Team Member Zuma Khan.


Otium was actually supposed to attend last year, but ended up having to pull out unfortunately. It was great to see them at Plate by Plate for the first time, and Chef Timothy Hollingsworth presented a dish of Falafel, Pickled Peppers, Sumac Onions, Labne (and if you've been to the restaurant, you'll know that he makes a mean falafel).


Chef Barbara Batiste and Assistant Malyssa Bernas from B Sweet Dessert Bar/Big Boi had a savory/sweet thing happening with their duo of Chicken Adobo and Steamed Rice with Atchara and Pan de Sal Bread Pudding with Ube Drizzle.


Some big news to come out of Plate by Plate: Michael Hung is back in as Chef at Faith & Flower (which I'm glad to see). He was joined by GM Jeff Kirshenbaum (from Alimento and Manhattan House), Catering and Events Director Grace Yoo, and Events Manager Natalie Diaz, and they served up bright plates of Smoked New Zealand King Salmon and Sorrel Broth.


L:Porsche Downtown LA was a major sponsor of the event and brought in this schmancy Sapphire Blue Metallic Macan GTS.
R: I went inside to check out the vehicle, and for some reason people immediately began taking photos of me.


L:Shochu is one of the more overlooked distilled spirits, so it was nice to see it promoted by Nankai Shochu's Robert Morita for the first time at Plate by Plate.
R:Honest Tea gets props for having the most straightforward shirts of the evening.


Michael Hung was pulling double duty. In addition to working the F&F station, he was also repping Chilola's, a Filipino concept he's been working on with partner Abby Gavino (am I the only one getting a prom pose vibe from the pic?). This evening they had Shrimp Tostaditas with Almond Satay paired with Cassava Cake with Dulce de Leche and Toasted Coconut.


The main event space at City Market Social House.


Another surprising bit of news for me was that Chef Shirley Chung (of Top Chef fame) was teaming up with none other than Stephane Bombet for the upcoming Ms Chi Cafe, to be located in the former home of Hanjip in Culver City. Her husband Jimmy Lee was actually behind the station, doling out Chicken Pot Stickers served with a Spicy Aioli. They also teased Madam Chi, a more formal restaurant to be located in the Arts District.


Last year's Best Dish winner, Marcel Vigneron's Wolf, pulled out all the stops with their Wolf Bite (Chicken Liver Cicchetti, Black Truffle, Red Onion Marmalade, Five Spice, Nasturtium); I don't think I've ever seen this much truffle at the event. I'm not sure what's going on with the other guy in the photo--looks like he just got a mouthful of nasturtium or something.


L: Andrew Chiu and Andrew Wong's Peking Tavern has sort of become the unofficial ambassador for baijiu cocktails in LA.
R:Karl Strauss Brewing Company made an appearance for the first time at Plate by Plate, their station helmed by Johnny Au Yeung and Kristy Jetsupphasala.


L: Former PbP LA President Vickie Chan with her soon-to-be husband Jason Su (the only person I saw in here wearing a tux).
R: Marilyn Tran and Andrew Le: another couple and another couple of PbP alums.


Melissa Wenke and Pastry Chef Ivan Marquez were behind the Broken Spanish station and managed to win Best Dish honors with their Chicharron Biscuit Sandwich. I have to give the team props for really working it, as apparently they were walking the floor and handing out their dish to guests, trolling for votes. Note also the aprons, donated by local firm BlueCut.


Sotto remains one of my fav Italian joints in town, and Chef de Cuisine Craig Towe was serving up cozy bowls of Squid Ink Fusilli, Shrimp and Seppia Ragu, Chili, Basil.


L: I swear I see Amy Lew at pretty much every Asian-y event out there. She's pictured above with Paul Dateh.
R: Here's Jennifer Quan, one of the winners of my ticket giveaway, with her hubby--see, people really do win these things.


Restauration was the sole representative from the LBC, and just might be the best resto in that City. Chef Phil Pretty couldn't make it, but his girlfriend Danielle could, and prepared a Seared Pork Belly with Watermelon Relish.


Matt Bostick and Tina Greene had one of the more ambitious beverage setups, promoting Bostick's new pre-batched cocktail company B&K Classic Cocktails. Their B&K Old Fashioned was pretty damn legit.


Metropole at Hotel Indigo had one of the heartier dishes of the night with its Crispy Duck Meatball Slider with Duck Fat House Chips.


L: The girl on the right was the DJ. No idea who the other is.
R: PbP Director of Outreach Michelle Li with mouth-agape PbP Manager of Publicity & Promotions Martin Kwok.


Umi by Hamasaku's Jesse Duron and Yoya Takahashi have been longtime Plate by Plate supporters. Tonight they had a whole lotta Nigiri Sushi, but it ran out quick.


Another busy station was Bavel's (unsurprisingly). Their Lamb Tartare with Fried Laffa proved to be extremely popular with guests, and according to Chef Ori Menashe, people were coming back for seconds and even thirds.



I was skeptical at first, but the flower wall was turned out to be more popular than I'd anticipated.


L: Shushu Cai and Joyce Chuk paired Ballast Point's Sour Wench and Aloha Sculpin beers with an accompaniment of side eye.
R: Head Bartender Matthew Young from 18 Social at Hotel Indigo had the enticingly titled Would You Like Cilantro and Onions? cocktail with Montelebos Mezcal, Chareau Aloe Liqueur, Jalapeno Infused Dry Vermouth and Cilantro & Pearl Onions.


L: Manager of CASES Summer Project Team & PbP Events Team Member Tram Tran sort of blends in with the wall.
R: PbP National Director of Volunteer Management Patrick Lee did a fine job pressuring his coworkers at Science 37 to attend.


L: The Hubert's Lemonade team seemed almost too happy.
R: Zen Vuong couldn't quite hack it as a PbP Steering Committee member, but was back as a volunteer at the Lagunitas station.


L: PbP Manager of Information Technology Kelly Kwan and PbP Operations Team Member Stefanie Cheng both chose floral-themed dresses.
R: PbP Director of Outreach Michelle Li, PbP alumnus John Wirfs, and PbP LA Legal Counsel Tuyet Nguyen pose in front of the flower-angel wings-Instagram decal thingy.


L: This was my first time encountering Hard Frescos, which combines two of my favorite things to drink: aguas frescas and alcohol.
R:Kawaba Beer brought their Snow Weizen and Sunrise Ale, which I believe are the only two beers they market currently.


L: I don't think Sapporo's been at Plate by Plate since 2010, which sort of surprised me.
R:Boomtown Brewery was a newcomer that I was glad to see attend. They were pouring their Mic Czech Pils, Ingenue Belgian White, and Limelight IPA.


Time to step inside VIP...



VIP guests were treated to sit-down mini-tasting menus. At the first VIP station, Walter and Margarita Manzke served a five-course mash-up of the couple's three restaurants: Republique, Petty Cash, Sari Sari Store. Their colorful menu included Chips and Salsa (Peach Sangrita, Mezcal), Imperial Kaluga Caviar (Smoked Tomato, Tuna), Corn Agnolotti (Australian Black Winter Truffles), Kimchi Fried Rice, and Halo Halo for dessert.


L: Meanwhile, Wolfgang Puck Catering was serving passed hors d'oeuvre throughout the evening.
R: VIP bar duties were handled by Don Tahara's new Sake Dojo in Little Tokyo. Bar Manager Phil Collins had a trio of cocktails on offer: the Little Tokyo (Akashi Ume, One Ten Purple Sake), the Kyoto Negroni (Iwai Mars Whisky, Asahi Amber Beer Syrup), and Blood From a Stone (Kinobi Gin, Fruit, Tonic).



Not to be outdone, Rossoblu's Steve Samson helmed his own VIP station and served an ambitious four-course tasting menu comprising: Marinated Tuna Panzanella (Heirloom Beans, Crushed Tomato, Herbed Bread Crumbs), Beet and Mascarpone Triangoli (Brown Butter, Sage, Poppy Seeds), Roasted Beef Short Rib (Red Wine Jus, Gremolata, Cauliflower Purée), and Fior Di Latte Gelato (Candied Pine Nuts, Pine Syrup). Very nice.

Finally, guests were provided with voting tickets, one for Best Dish and one for Best Drink, and were able to vote via ballot boxes at each station. Here are the final results:
1st Place	Broken Spanish	Macchiato
2nd Place	Chef Eric Bost (restaurant coming soon)	Cognoscenti Coffee
3rd Place	Chefs Walter & Margarita Manzke (Republique/Petty Cash/Sari Sari Store)	Peking Tavern

Kabob Palace 2 (Arlington, VA)

August 5, 2018, 2:00 pm

≫ Next: Lono (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Plate by Plate 2018 (Los Angeles, CA)

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Kabob Palace 2 Restaurant
2333 S Eads St, Arlington, VA 22202
703.979.3000
Fri 07/27/2018, 02:00p-03:30p





I needed a quick 'n' easy lunch place for the final day of my latest visit to Washington, as I was flying out from DCA in the afternoon. One of my Lyft drivers had raved about Kabob Palace in Crystal City, and I figured I'd give it a try since driver/cabbie types usually know about these sort of things. Coincidentally, the place happened to be located right across the street from my hotel, so that certainly helped.



Inside, things are cheery and rather pink.


The menu's ostensibly Afghan, and you'll see a number of similarities with the cuisines of India, Iran, and Pakistan. In addition to the à la carte selections above, there's also a lunch buffet offered (which I didn't go for, since I wanted to get my food at optimal freshness). Click for larger versions.


We began with the complimentary salad, which I found a tad underdressed. I did appreciate the zippiness of the bell peppers though, and the chickpeas were a welcomed addition.


The Mango Lassi [$2.99] was about what you'd expect.


Lamb Chop [$15.91] | Lamb chop marinated in our special seasonings
I opted for the lamb chops, and while I enjoyed their char and smokiness, I did find the meat on the overdone, gristly side.


Accompanying the plate was what I believe was a mint-yogurt sauce.


Spinach arrived soft and bitter, while the chunks of potato hidden in there worked as a contrast, both in terms of taste and texture. The rice was quite nice as well.


Meanwhile, the pita/naan was chewier, tougher, and denser than I'd prefer.


Chicken Kabob (Boneless) [$10.00] | Skinless fat-free chunks of chicken marinated in our special seasonings
Next was the chicken kebab, which was not unlike your typical tikka version. I enjoyed the sear, smoke, and seasoning here, but unfortunately numerous parts of the bird veered dry, rubbery, and almost "crunchy" in spots.


Kabob-E Kubideh [$4.00] | Ground sirloin and grated onion with house seasonings
Last up was the koobideh. I found loosely-packed yet substantial, with aggressive spicing and plenty of green onion for balance.

My lunch here was decent, though not as good as I'd hoped for given how much my Lyft guy was gushing about the place. I really don't see what all the ballyhoo is about--this is pretty standard stuff...

...So after I had my meal here, I discovered that I didn't go to the right Kabob Palace. Rather, the "real" one is actually three doors up the street, and this was just an offshoot, and really quite confusing. I guess I'll have to check out the O.G. on a future visit.

Lono (Los Angeles, CA)

August 6, 2018, 7:15 pm

≫ Next: Copycat Co. (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Kabob Palace 2 (Arlington, VA)

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Lono Hollywood Lounge, Bar & Restaurant
6611 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90028
323.848.4475
www.lonohollywood.com
Sat 07/28/2018, 07:15p-11:30p



It's been a while since I've dined this deep into Hollywood, but what brought be back was a birthday party at Lono, a new-ish tiki bar situated right on the Walk of Fame (and a stone's throw away from the location of the original Don the Beachcomber, coincidentally). Named after a Hawaiian deity of sorts, the place was opened in June 2017 by Austin Melrose and Zach Patterson, the guys behind Umbrella Hospitality Group (Melrose Umbrella Company, The Corner Door). Heading up the kitchen is Executive Chef David Lespron (SBE-Katsuya, The Dolce Group) and Chef de Cuisine Sam Hoke (Idle Hour, Harlowe). Michael Lay, of Broken Spanish and Faith & Flower fame, served as opening GM and Beverage Director, but left in September last year for Hotel Figueroa.



Lono resides in the address once home to David Judaken's short-lived East, which closed in August 2010 and was actually taken over by SBE and used as an event venue. The spot was revamped by M. Winter Design (Jaffa, Manuela, Gjusta, Bardonna, The Lincoln), with assistance from Melrose. Lono definitely has that tiki bar vibe going on, at least in the front part of the space.


Meanwhile, the back area, known as the Green Room Patio, has a noticeably airier feel. It's only open on Fridays and Saturdays apparently, and actually gets a little clubby later into the night.


Lono features a lengthy list of tiki-inspired cocktails, along with a smattering of beer and wine, while the food program fits the theme with its decidedly Asian-y bent. Corkage is $30 per bottle, limit two per table. Click for larger versions.


Banana Boo Loo [$14.00] | Engineered by Helena Olsen, with our friend Bryan Davis' Lost Spirits Navy Rum, fresh lime, pineapple, banana, & demerara
The first thing I have to say about our first cocktail was that there was actually surprisingly little banana, but that doesn't mean I didn't enjoy it. It was probably more spirit-forward than I expected, really showing off notes of dark fruit and brown sugar contrasted by a tart, acerbic character that sort of stays with you.


A complementary serving of Lono's signature coconut popcorn with furikake. It was definitely less coconut-y than anticipated, and in fact, almost "cheesy."


Several of my dining companions ordered these Lono-branded coconuts, which were filled with coconut water. From what I was told, once you finished it, you could request unlimited refills of piña colada, which seems like a good deal?


Tiki Tots [$10.00] | Ao nori, banana ketchup
I'm a bit of a sucker for tater tots, and these were as perfect as any I've encountered, with some extra oomph from the aonori and a great sweet-tart counterpoint from that ketchup.


Painkiller [$14.00] | Pusser's Rum, pineapple, Cara Cara orange & coconut cream
The classic Painkiller cocktail went down super smooth, with lots of coconut-y sweetness evened out by tart fruit, nutmeg spice, and a touch of herbaceousness.


Chips 'n Dip [$12.00] | Fresh avocado-yuzu crème fraiche, cilantro, California olive oil, serrano pepper, rice crackers
An unconventional take on chips and dip worked. The salty, crunchy crackers were enjoyable just by themselves, but really sang with a dab of that airy, silky crème fraîche.


Pearl Diver [$16.00] | Overproof dark Jamaican & aged Puerto Rico rums, fresh lime, Cara Cara orange & Don's Gardenia mix
Served in a snifter, this classic tiki cocktail from Don the Beachcomber drank sweet and fruity, but also conveyed contrasting nutty, bitter, boozy notes with a trace of warm spice on top.


Shrimp Shack [$15.00] | Pineapple popcorn shrimp, yuzu, walnuts, ichiimi
This was a highlight. I was afraid that the shrimp would be overcooked, but they actually came out perfectly textured, with a spot on balance of sweetness and salinity.


King Kamehameha [$14.00] | Many fine Rums from many fine places, Aperol, fresh lime, Cara Cara orange, pineapple, passion fruit, honey
Our third and final cocktail to be served in a hurricane glass, this showcased flavors of tart citrus, passion fruit, and honey in a very drinkable package with only a smidgen of rum. Sweet and easy, but also dangerous.


El Pollo LONO [$40.00] | A 10 piece bucket of Jidori free range organic chicken, potato-mac salad
It's hard to be led too astray with fried chicken, and tonight's was no exception. I opted for the drumstick (my preferred part), and found it super juicy and flavorful, with a lovely contrast between the tender flesh and the delicate crispness of the skin.


Mai Tai [$12.00] | Jamaican and Guyanese Rums, fresh lime, macadamia, Orgeat, and vanilla demerara
Lono's take on perhaps the most iconic of tiki cocktails was surprisingly brisk at first blush, with an astringency that made itself known against a backdrop of rum. The mid-palate displayed more of the orgeat character of the drink, while I got a lot of vanilla on the back end.



Along with the chicken above came a tangy, well-textured potato-mac salad, a sweet-spicy dipping sauce, and white rice, which I really appreciated as a foil to all the strong flavors at play.


Missionary's Downfall [$13.00] | LONO light Rum blend, Crème de Peche, pineapple, honey, and mint
This green-hued cocktail from Don the Beachcomber was more interesting than I was expecting, and also quite quaffable. They key here was the mint, which gave the drink a bright, herbaceous element that really worked hand in hand with the sweetness and rum potency present.



Ota Ika [$17.00] | Tahitian style ceviche, wild caught yellowfin tuna, cucumber, tomato, coconut milk, passion fruit, topped with a black sesame cracker
This Polynesian ceviche was a bit of a miss for me, as I found the dish overly sweet from the coconut, and lacking in acidity. The cracker on top added some textural contrast, but also more sugar, which wasn't needed.



Scorpion Bowl [$50.00] | Built for 4... or a brave 2 / A collection of Rums with a hint of Cognac, lemon, orange & orgeat
Served in the classic volcano bowl, this quintessential multi-person tiki cocktail definitely brought the fire, as well as plenty of sweet, fruity flavors backed by a dosing of alcoholic heat. We actually had some difficulty finishing it all, despite the number of straws you see.


Musubi Bowl [$13.00] | Teriyaki glazed spam, seasoned rice, amazu pickled cucumber, toasted nori
This was another favorite of mine. I really enjoyed the super savory, comforting, familiar nature of the Spam, and how that worked against the tanginess of those pickles, all while the rice moderated everything.


Suffering Bastard [$14.00] | Cairo's favorite hangover cure during the war... Ford's Gin, Bourbon, ginger, Angostura, soda & mint
Our next cocktail was ostensibly created by Joe Scialom at Cairo's Shepheard's Hotel, designed to be a hair of the dog. What struck me first was the zesty, zippy nature of the ginger, but this was evened out by the other ingredients at play, making for a pretty easy-drinking beverage overall.



Pork Belly 2 Ways [$100.00] | Heritage Berkshire pork grilled with hoisin over the charcoal & glazed, chilled pickled salad
Pork was cooked to a superb consistency, with a good mix of lean and fat. However, it veered sweet for me, though the included lettuce (for making your own ssam) and pickles did make for some semblance of balance.


Saturn [$12.00] | Bombay Sapphire East, passionfruit, lemon, Orgeat & Falernum
This was the only gin-focused cocktail of the evening, and turned out quite well. I found it tart at first, almost bracingly so, but then I got a healthy serving of tropical fruit and spice that made the drink oh-so tiki-ish.



Since this was a birthday, one of my fellow revelers prepared a lovely (and theme-appropriate) mango-coconut tres leches cake. It used coconut milk in place of the usual evaporated milk, and featured two layers with a homemade mango jam, mango whipped cream, and diced mango in between, while the topping was more mango whipped cream, diced mango, and toasted coconut. Note that there was a cake cutting fee of $30.


Curse of LONO [$16.00] | As tradition dictates, this recipe has been entrusted only to the proprietors. They'll only say that it is a special blend of exotic juices, intense spices and intoxicating spirits served in a fiery chalice...
We concluded with Lono's signature cocktail, which featured its fair share of pyrotechnics. I got loads of cinnamon on the nose, while the palate was sweet, creamy, the booze well-hidden. The finish, meanwhile, showed off more warm spice commingled with tart, tropical, pineapple-like notes.

Apparently there's hope for Hollywood after all, since this was some of the most memorable dining/drinking that I've had in the area in a while. Lono really is a preeminent tiki experience for LA, with a strong library of cocktails and unexpectedly tasty food, all served in fun, convivial atmosphere. It's one of the most pleasant surprises of the year for me.

Copycat Co. (Washington, DC)

August 6, 2018, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Rappahannock Oyster Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Lono (Los Angeles, CA)

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Copycat Company Bar
1110 H St NE, Washington, DC 20002
202.241.1952
www.copycatcompany.com
Mon 08/06/2018, 08:30p-11:00p





I was just in DC for work a couple weeks ago, but yes, I had to return once again on another business trip. This time around, I made sure to hit up the Atlas District's Copycat Co, which was actually recommended by several of the industry folks I talked on my last visit. It's the work of Devin Gong, a class of 2008 Maryland Institute College of Art graduate in painting (he named the bar after the Copycat Building, which was nearby his school). Gong boasts experience at DC spots Napa 1015, Ping Pong Dim Sum, Founding Farmers, as well as at Barmini, where he tended bar until April 2014. Situated in H Street Corridor's Hubert Newsom Real Estate building, Copycat opened its door in November 2014, and actually took over an address that was supposed to be home to another bar called Newsom.


The lower level of Copycat is where Gong's Northern Chinese street fare is prepared, and there's seating for about a dozen guests in the casual, easy-going space. A cat-themed mural on the wall lists the various offerings. Click for a larger version.


The upper level, however, is where the action is. Designed by CORE's Allison Cooke (who also worked on Barmini) in collaboration with Gong, the upstairs seats about two dozen, and features a much darker, opium den-ish aesthetic.


The printed menu boasts a straightforward food selection centered on potstickers and skewers, and also lists an assemblage of classic cocktails available. There's beer and wine too, if you must. Click for larger versions.


However, I was drawn to Copycat's chalkboard menu and its oft-changing, oft-thematic collection of cocktails. Click for a larger version.


Here we have Copycat's complimentary Goldfish crackers.


Ironranger [$13.00] | Ango, Lemon, Falernum, Pine, Bourbon
I was in a tiki cocktail mood at the start of the evening and ordered accordingly. Tasting this, I actually didn't get much at first. But soon enough, a wave a sweet, tropical flavors arrived, moderated by the creaminess of falernum, before the drink finished with notes of bitterness and bourbon.


I ordered in rounds, each of which came on its own metal tray.


Triple Delight (Pork & Shrimp) Potstickers [$5.00]
My first order of guotie hit the spot. The brine of the shrimp really came through, while the pork added a satisfying savoriness to the mix. At the same time, notes of chive and ginger on the back end worked as a counterpoint.


Jane's Special (Chicken) Skewer [$4.50]
The chicken skewer was a winner, coming out juicy, tender, and teeming with just the right amount of char and smoke. There was even this creeping spice that I really appreciated.


Pork Bao [$1.50]
My first baozi wasn't bad, with a nice porkiness evened out by what I believe was chive, though I would've liked a juicier filling. Meanwhile, the bun itself was properly fluffy, with a good bite to it.


Gerry Mulligan [$13.00] | Honey, Yellow Chartreuse, Brugal, Ango, Orange Peel
The next cocktail was definitely on the boozier side. Nose of citrus and cola, along with spice and berries. The palate was viscous, while the rum's heat, dark fruit, and caramel flavors were joined by grassy, medicinal elements and a strongly bitter finish.


The second platter, with a similar mix of food to the first.


Chicken & Mushroom Potstickers [$5.00]
These jiaozi displayed a delicious marriage of juicy, flavorful chicken and earthy mushroom, all with a delightful touch of growing heat. Texturally, these were better than my first order thanks to the heightened contrast between the soft, thick, steamed part of the wrapper and the crispier fried portion.


Beef Ribeye Skewer [$4.50]
The rib eye arrived more tender, more succulent than I was expecting, with a lovely pepperiness to boot. I will say, though, that I would've liked the skewer cooked a touch rarer.


Veggie Bao [$1.50]
The veggie bao once again conveyed a good texture bun-wise, while its filling was definitely more austere with its use of bitter greens.


Harvest Buck [$13.00] | Strawberry, Ginger, Applejack, Rye
Cocktail #3 meshed very apparent ginger notes with a candied, almost Lifesaver-esque sweetness, with the strawberry peeking through just a touch. The finish, meanwhile, had a lingering astringency that made sense.


The third round mixed things up with some soup.


Beef & Celery Potstickers [$5.00]
Here, the zestiness of celery did an admirable job offsetting the heft of the meat. And again, nice texture and sear on the dumplings.


Lemongrass Porkcheeks Skewer [$4.50]
Pork cheek was undoubtedly on the fattier, richer side, with the char and lime working effectively for balance.


Sober Soup [$3.50] | Pork neck stock with pulled pork neck and cilantro
The soup was decent enough, but I seriously doubt if this would actually help sober me up. Flavors were light and clean, with lots of cilantro but surprisingly little pork.


Plantation Smash [$13.00] | Plantation Pineapple Rum Smash with Strawberry
We ended with this decidedly fruit-forward cocktail. Think lots of mint and spice and berry at first, leading to more in-your-face fruit, tempered just enough by the rum.


Veggie Potstickers [$5.00]
If you have to go vegetarian, I'd stick with the potstickers, since the dough here tends to stand up better to the astringency of the greens.

This place wasn't even on my radar until I heard about it on my last DC trip, but I'm glad I found out about it. I was certainly a fan of the cocktail selection, and I really wish I was able to try more of the drinks. As for the food, it was pretty legit, and better than I thought it'd be for sure. Overall, a fun concept than I could see myself going back to if I lived in the area. So given the success of Copycat, Gong is planning on opening a second spot, this one located right in Dupont Circle, not far from Sushi Taro. It'll be called Astoria, and will be more of a restaurant than a bar. I'll be keeping an eye out for sure.

Rappahannock Oyster Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

August 12, 2018, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Métier (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Copycat Co. (Washington, DC)

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Rappahannock Oyster Bar at ROW DTLA
787 S Alameda St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
323.435.4004
www.rappbardtla.com / www.rroysters.com/restaurants/rappoysterbardtla
Sun 08/12/2018, 07:30p-10:15p



[Note: Nick Erven has apparently left the restaurant since the writing of this entry.]



We last reported on Nick Erven back in August 2016, shortly after he'd opened Erven, his eponymous vegan joint in Santa Monica. People really seemed to enjoy it, but the spot just couldn't survive, and ended up closing at the start of this year, not long after the Chef started consulting for The Venue in Koreatown. Following the shutter, it was announced that Erven would be leading the team at the upcoming Rappahannock Oyster Bar at ROW DTLA, and the restaurant eventually opened at the start of May for lunch, with dinner coming a month later. We recently paid the place a visit for a birthday celebration.

A bit of history: Rappahannock actually traces its history back to 1899, when James Arthur Croxton Jr. (the current owners' great-grandfather) started an oyster business. He ran the company with son William Arthur Croxton Sr. until he passed away in 1961, while William himself passed in 1991. In 2001, cousins Ryan Croxton and Travis Croxton decided to revive the family business, and renewed their grandfather's oyster bed leases. Following, they began experimenting with oyster farming, and were able to starting selling product in 2005. The two were key in putting Virginia oysters on the culinary map, and in the process, they also helped revive and restore the Chesapeake Bay ecosystem.

The Croxtons' next step was to get into the restaurant business. They teamed up with Scott Croxton (another cousin) and the three purchased a property near their oyster beds, which they turned into Merroir in 2011. The "tasting room" was a success, and was followed up by the first Rappahannock Oyster Bar in DC's Union Market in September 2012. Rappahannock Restaurant in Richmond, VA arrived in December that year with Jonathan Staples--husband of Hilda Staples (Volt, Family Meal, Rogue 24, Graffiato, Aggio)--on board as a minority partner. The adjacent Rapp Session opened in February 2016, while Charleston's Rappahannock Oyster Bar dropped in March 2017. There's another Oyster Bar in the works for DC's Wharf as well, slated to debut later this year.

Travis has also expanded (sans cousins) into non-Rappahannock restaurants, collaborating with Derek Brown in 2013 on Eat the Rich (and oyster-slash-cocktail bar) and Southern Efficiency (a whiskey bar) in DC's Shaw district. He also got a piece of Graffito's (now-closed) Richmond expansion and opened two Rocksalts: one in Charlottesville, VA in September 2014 and one in Charlotte, NC in February 2015. Also in his portfolio is GWARbar in Richmond, VA (January 2015) and Brine in Fairfax, VA (May 2015).


Rappahannock DTLA was penned by Studio Unltd (Bavel, Dominique Ansel, The Rose Cafe, Otium, Chianina, MessHall, Bestia), and shows off a contemporary maritime sort of aesthetic. The open kitchen and concomitant Carrara marble dining counter dominate the room, and there's considerable patio square footage out front as well.


Erven was given free rein on the menu, and as a result, the food turned out much more interesting than I was anticipating. Beverage-wise, we have a compact wine list and a decent array of beers too. Corkage is $25, and we were charged twice. Click for larger versions.


uni-corn [$17.00] | sea urchin, corn, piquillo hot sauce, cotija, smoky mayo
The name "uni-corn" is utterly obvious now that I think about it, so I'm surprised that this was the first time seeing it on a menu. Moniker aside, the elote-esque dish worked things out, presenting a mash-up of corn and urchin sweetness with an omnipresent, lingering smoke and a touch of heat.


pork belly lettuce wraps [$9.00] | pineapple bbq, shishito, benne
We ended up getting comped a couple dishes (birthday boy was a regular at Saint Martha), and the first was this ssam-like preparation of pork belly. I certainly didn't mind it, finding the heavy, hearty flavors of the meat surprisingly well-matched to the sweet-tangy BBQ sauce while the veggies provided the needed contrast.


blue corn hush puppies [$8.00] | smoked maple butter, lime
The complimentary hushpuppies turned out to be some of the best I've had. They highlighted the actual corn really well, and worked beautifully with the sweetness of the paired butter. I appreciated the acidity provided by the pickled onions, too.


deviled eggs [$8.00] | smoked trout, house hot sauce
Being the egg fiend that I am, this was a must-try for me. The eggs were on point texturally, and the yolk matched like clockwork with the smokiness from the trout roe. I would've liked more heat from the advertised hot sauce, however.


Our first beverage was the 2018 Modern Times Wizard & Graf: Chapter 2 with Cherries, a saison-apple cider hybrid aged in both clay amphoras and French oak with Montmorency and Balaton cherries, created in collaboration with Shacksbury Cider out of Vermont. Its nose was barnyard-y and sour, but with a distinct cherry note. Taste-wise, I got more tartness and funk commingled with a soft acidity, minerality, and a sweet cherried spice on the mid-palate.


large tower [$150.00] | 12 oyster, 6 scallop, 6 clam, 6 shrimp, hamachi, uni guac, caviar, lobster salad
Given the number of people we had, we opted for the restaurant's large seafood tower. We'll start with the tower's lower level; clock-wise from left we had:

• Rappahannock River Oysters - These were among the easiest-eating oysters I've had: soft, sweet, mild, with surprisingly little salt.
• Rochambeau Oysters - I didn't get to try these, but from what I heard, they were clean and subtly briny, and went down pretty easy as well.
• Olde Salts Oysters - I found these creamy at first, but this quickly transitioned to a strong, focused salinity that really stayed with me.
• Peruvian Bay Scallops - With tarragon, poppy seed, yuzu juice, and burnt orange oil. Again, I wasn't able to try one due to the number of people we had in our party.
• Clams - Super clean, with a sharp, oceany taste.
• Shrimp - Fresh tasting for sure, but also just briny enough, with a citrusy tartness and an herbaceous, astringent character.

Accoutrements, meanwhile, included horseradish cream, maple-black pepper mignonette, kimchi mignonette, and "awesome sauce" (a Vietnamese-style ceviche sauce if I'm not mistaken).


And of course here's the upper level of the tower; clock-wise from left we had:

• Hamachi, Sliced Plums, Watermelon Radishes, Serranos, Garlic Ponzu, Shiso - I got a nice depth from the soy here, along with a persistent heat on the finish thanks to those serranos. The other elements contributed a bevy of contrasting tart, tangy notes that I appreciated as well.
• Caviar, Crema, Toast - I was a fan of how in-your-face salty the caviar was, and how that was tempered by the lushness of the cream and the bit of toast on the bottom.
• Uni Guacamole with Masa Fries - Fries were crispy and wonderfully corn-forward, and went swimmingly with that zippy guac.
• Lobster Salad - Typically found in the lobster roll at lunch, this was delightfully sweet, creamy, and clean.

crispy brussels sprouts [$14.00] | dill-tofu ranch, trout roe, "everything spice"
The Brussels delivered, no doubt. All the smoke and char and crunch and bitterness that I wanted was there in spades, evened out by that "ranch" while the red onions provided a welcomed sharpness to things.


grilled octopus [$19.00] | lobster rice, chili pepper, sauce nero
I had to get the octo of course, which I did not regret. It was super savory, but also super tender, with a lovely hit of citrus that served as a great accent piece. The lobster rice was unexpected, but worked as a rich, creamy, cozy complement.


Our next beer was the 2017 Modern Times Swift Midday Brilliance, a sour blonde-sour saison blend, fermented with Saccharo/Brett/Lacto, then aged in white wine barrels with mangoes. It smelled tart and Bretty for sure, but with the sweetness of the fruit peeking through. On the palate I found sourness and acidity initially, along with rich, true-to-life mango flavors coming through toward the back end.


"loaded" potato latke [$16.00] | bacon, scallion, crispy cheddar, crème fraiche, caviar
Here was a mash-up of a latke and Waffle House hash browns, a wondrous mélange of potato, pork, cheese, cream, and salt that I found utterly gratifying. A favorite of mine.


cheddar biscuits [$9.00] | kimchi, smoked apple butter
Erven's biscuits were ostensibly inspired by Red Lobster's Cheddar Bay examples. They were soft yet crispy, and buttery certainly, and had a flavor profile that reminded me of Chinese cong you bing, which I loved. Delish alone, but even better with a dab of that sweet 'n' smoky butter on the side.


burrata [$15.00] | heirloom tomato, cucumber, crispy pita, olives, red wine vinaigrette
This panzanella-ish salad was a pleasant surprise. The burrata was as cool and creamy as you'd expect, and really worked as a foil to the potency of the olives. The veggies provided further contrast to the dish, and I was a big fan of those crunchy shards of pita, too.


lambs and clams [$24.00] | fennel, fingerlings, poached egg, grilled bread
Erven's take on a Rappahannock staple was a monochromatic affair, but fortunately it tasted better than it looked. The crux was the balancing act between the brine of the clams and the savory depth of the lamb, with the potato serving as a moderating element. The fennel, meanwhile, added a welcomed zinginess to the dish.


The evening's final beverage was the 2017 Modern Times Expulsion of the Princes, a blended, red wine barrel-aged, Lacto/Pedio/Brett-fermented dark sour ale with blueberries and blackberries. Aromas were on the vinous side, with dark berry fruit, leather, and light grain. In terms of taste, I got more of that rich, jammy berry alongside light smoke, light acidity, and a crisp-drying character.


eggplant [$15.00] | chili-hoisin, lettuce, cucumber, radish
Here was the most overtly Asian-y dish of the night. We had what seemed like an entire eggplant, a meaty, satisfying specimen doused with the familiar, dark-toned savoriness of hoisin. It was some pretty heady stuff, so the veggies on top were crucial as a counterweight.


shrimp and grits [$22.00] | anson mills grits, benton's bacon, corn succotash, chili butter, sunny egg
Last up was the Chef's version of a Lowcountry classic. It was a homey, comforting dish, the well-spiced grits meshing well with the sweetness of corn and the considerable brine of the shrimp (which, I will say, were a touch over).



Since this was a birthday dinner, one of my dining companions ended up preparing a coconut cheesecake with passion fruit. It was actually one of the best cheesecakes I've had in a while. I found it relatively airy, with a good back-and-forth between sweet and tart, while the crumbly crust was thoroughly enjoyable. The key, though, was the subtlety and finesse of the coconut, which served as the perfect accent to the classically rich, creamy nature of the cake. Note that the circular depressions on the surface of the cake were due to non-edible, succulent-themed decorations that were removed.

Given my preconceived notions of Rappahannock, I was expecting some fairly prototypical East Coast seafood from this place. However, I should have known better with Erven in command of the kitchen. Even though Rappahannock's sort of a chain restaurant, the place felt distinct, unique, "LA" if you will. Certainly, the food is centered on the classics, with a lot of Southern influence to be sure, but you'll also find plenty of contemporary details and multicultural leanings that touch upon the diversity of Los Angeles. This was my first meal at the new ROW development, and it's a promising start.

Métier (Washington, DC)

August 13, 2018, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Chateau Hanare (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Rappahannock Oyster Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

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Metier Restaurant
1015 7th St NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.737.7500
www.metierdc.com
Wed 08/08/2018, 07:30p-10:35p



Given how much I enjoyed Kinship, I think it was pretty much a given that I'd eventually try Métier. Named after the French word for trade or occupation, the restaurant opened in April 2016 and is again the work of Chef Eric Ziebold and partner Célia Lauren. However, compared to Kinship, it's a tasting menu-only sort of place, one serving Ziebold's vision for elevated, contemporary American cuisine. Métier was awarded a Michelin star in October 2017 (which it has retained), and perhaps more importantly, was deemed the best restaurant in the DC area by Washingtonian at the start of this year.


Métier is located underground, underneath Kinship, and is accessed via a private elevator. Upon stepping out of said elevator, you're invited to relax in the salon, where you can partake in an hors d'oeuvre and apéritif.


Tonight's welcome cocktail was an anise hyssop-melon spritz, a lively, invigorating concoction showcasing a deft balance between fruitiness and herbaceousness.


To munch on, we received a dish of egg white bavarois with marinated caviar and Yukon Gold chips, which was pretty amazing. The custard melded the perfect creaminess of egg with a touch of sweetness, while the onion and caviar adding wonderfully contrasting hits of zestiness and salt. Think of this as the best sour cream and onion potato chips you've ever had.


La Ultima [$17.00] | Mezcal, Amaro Montenegro, Green Chartreuse, Lemon
Given that we were in here for about 20 minutes, I went ahead and ordered a cocktail from the upstairs bar. The drink smelled strongly smoky from the mezcal, with a distinct vegetal character and traces of citrus. Taste-wise, I got more smoke up front, leading to a marked savoriness and an interesting herbal-astringent element that I couldn't quite put my finger on--it was almost like a "hot" radish, if that makes sense.


After some time, we were called into the main dining room. Penned by Darryl Carter (who also did Kinship), the space is a blend of the modern and the antique, and seats about three dozen. Note the 14-seater private dining room in the back.


Above we see the evening's menu, comprising seven courses at $200 a head, inclusive of service but not tax or beverages. And speaking of libations, I opted for the wine pairing ($145), though of course there's a pretty extensive bottle list if you'd prefer, with prices ranging from "reasonable" to "used car." The menu notes were a nice touch I have to say. Click for larger versions.


1: Iced L'Abeille Garden Ratatouille
Leo Steen, Jurassic Park, Chenin Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley, CA, 2012
Given the hot weather we were having, it felt appropriate to begin with such a bright, refreshing course. An unconventional ratatouille of sorts, the vibrancy of the veggies was on display--unmitigated, yet bound together by the potency of olive oil. The paired Chenin Blanc fit the bill nicely too, smelling fruity and earthy while the palate went in a sweet 'n' savory direction, with a steely minerality and agreeable acidity.


The dish was accompanied by lángos, a type of Hungarian fried bread. Airy and light, it had a sweet-salty thing going and actually reminded me of Chinese you tiao.


2: L'Abeille Garden La Ratte Potato Fondant | Sautéed Chive Blossom, Lobster Coral Emulsion and Australian Black Truffle
Château Latour-Martillac Blanc, Pessac Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2005
Next was as decadent of a preparation of potato as I'd ever seen. The Rattes themselves were pleasantly firm to the bite, and showed off a restrained richness that matched up beautifully with the luxuriousness and brine of that lobster sauce, all while the truffles imparted a further muskiness to it all. The dish stood up well to the paired wine. A Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend, it displayed a sweet, oxidative nose and a palate rich and rife with nutty, buttery, oaky, vegetal nuances. Interestingly, it actually became much more fruit-forward when taken with the food.


For course #2, bread duties were handled by airy, chewy, subtly tart slices of pane francese, which I eagerly used to sop up the remaining liquid on the plate above.


3: Madras Curry Poached Atlantic Halibut | Coconut Creamed Corn with Compressed Mango and Cilantro
Alzinger, Loibenberg, Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria, 2016
Halibut arrived flawlessly cooked--it was about as perfect as it gets. The fish possessed just the right amount of curry spice, which was smoothed out by the sweetness of corn and coconut while the cilantro offered up a citrusy accent. Along with the halibut came an Austrian Riesling, one brimming with rich fruit and stone on the nose. Its taste was super fresh, vibrant, with more fruit and minerals alongside a pleasing tartness and acidity--it did a great job linking up with the sweetness in the dish.


4: Sautéed Moulard Duck Foie Gras | Duck Confit-Stuffed Savoy Cabbage and Peach BBQ Sauce
Domaine Raspail-Ay, Gigondas, Rhône Valley, France, 2015
I was a bit scared of this next course. First off, I'm very wary of sweet foie gras preparations, and this had peach. Secondly, there's duck confit, and that just sounds like heavy on heavy. Fortunately, the dish actually worked, very well in fact. The foie itself was spot on in its sear, and had all the classic flavors you'd expect, while the cabbage worked beautifully for contrast. The surprise here was the confit, which ate as you'd expect, but somehow managed to not be overwhelming; I could say the same about the peach. Obviously, we had to have a wine that could stand up to the heft of the course, and the GSM blend made sense with its generous helping of (tannic) red fruit, pepper, and spice.


5: Martin Farms Minute Steak | Grilled Onions, Morel Mushrooms, Okra Croutons with Garden Herb Vinaigrette and Roquefort Dressing
Château Latour-Martillac, Pessac Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2009
I rarely see minute steak on menus these days, which I suppose makes sense given that it's typically not the sexiest cut out there. Ziebold's version, however, was a winner no doubt. It was tender, sure, but also one of the most flavorful steaks I've had in a while, and I absolutely loved the zippiness and acidity from that herb vinaigrette, while the onions and 'shrooms imparted further complexity to the dish. The meat called for a powerful red wine, and the matched Bordeaux met the mark. Comprised mostly of Cabernet Sauvignon, it was pretty prototypical of the region with its soft, velvety palate of robust berry fruit commingled with some almost meaty notes and a touch of heat.


The steak came with a serving of the Chef's famous Parker House rolls, which were oh-so buttery and airy and salty and just as good as I remember from the CityZen days. And yes, I made sure to mop up the remaining liquid above with 'em.


6: Key Lime Meringue | Crème Fraîche Cake, Granny Smith Apple, Cucumber and Shiso-Lime Granité
Château Rieussec, Sauternes, France, 1988
With the savories done with, it was time for Pastry Chef Anne Specker (a CityZen alum) to shine. Our first dessert really did recall the essence of a classic key lime, playing the tartness of citrus against the sweetness of meringue while the granita added a bracing, herbaceous component. Going along with the course was a Sauternes with some nice age on it. It was just what I wanted, displaying loads of honeyed, stone fruit-esque sweetness balanced out by a fresh acidity and a touch of nuttiness.


7: Nut 'n' Honey | Ochoa Farms Tomato Confit, Peanut Butter Cream, Honeycomb and Yellow Tomato Sorbet
Kelt, Tour du Monde, VSOP, Grande Champagne, Cognac, France
The humble tomato was the hero in our final (proper) course, its slightly savory disposition making itself known for sure against a backdrop of peanut--very neat. To drink, we moved away from wine and into cognac, specifically an ocean-matured example filled with warmth, sweetness, and spice, along with notes of wood and mature grapes.


At this point, I was provided a shot glass of milk granita and instructed to construct my own milk shake, choosing from flavors of chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry-verbena. I think it's obvious from the color which option I picked. In hindsight, I should've gone with Neapolitan.


Next came some wonderfully crisp, buttery, freshly baked malted vanilla shortbread cookies.


Rum Old Fashioned [$17.00] | Santa Teresa 1796, Bitters, Simple Syrup, Lemon Zest
I requested a digestif and was brought this rum-based cocktail. It had a nose of warming spice and caramel mixed with citrus. The taste was sweet and fruity and chocolatey from the rum, with a smidge of bitterness and a long-lasting finish filled with brown sugar.


Guests were provided a vial of Old Bay olive oil to take home. And fortunately, I had no issues taking this in my carry-on luggage.

Tonight's meal effectively confirmed Ziebold's position as one of the top toques in DC. His food isn't necessarily flashy, but it is pretty much flawless (as was the service). There's a familiarity to the dishes, yet I still find myself pleasantly surprised at every turn. I get a restrained playfulness in the cooking, as well as a sort of quiet confidence that must, I imagine, stem from years and years in the biz. I think it's safe to say that Métier's got to be one of the premier dining experiences in DC.

Chateau Hanare (Los Angeles, CA)

August 13, 2018, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Kabob Palace (Arlington, VA)

≪ Previous: Métier (Washington, DC)

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Chateau Hanare Restaurant
8097 Selma Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90046
323.963.5269
www.hanarela.com
Mon 08/13/2018, 07:30p-10:25p





One of LA's newest Japanese spots is situated, oddly enough, in a former cottage on the grounds of Hollywood's iconic Chateau Marmont. Named after the Japanese word for "separate," Chateau Hanare grand-opened back in July this year. It's the work of Reika Alexander (née Yo), who's most known for opening New York hotspot EN Japanese Brasserie in the West Village back in 2004. Running the kitchen here, meanwhile, is Chef Abe Hiroki, who was EN's opening CdC and later Executive Chef.



The restaurant's divided into a front dining area with the bar and a darker toned space in the back. There are also two private tatami rooms, not to mention the patio out front. Total seating capacity is reported as 135.


Menu-wise, Chateau Hanare features a pricey, wide-ranging array of dishes, both traditional and not so much. There are also two kaiseki-inspired menus offered (one of 'em being vegan) at $115 a head, though they're merely composed of dishes available à la carte. Click for larger versions.



There is no dearth of things to drink: cocktails, Japanese beers, loftily-priced sakes, shochu, wines, and a nice Japanese whisky selection to boot. Corkage is $35. Click for larger versions.


Our first beverage was the 2010 En Tirage Recently Disgorged Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, a sparkling wine from Carneros. Acidic, oxidative, citrusy nose with a well-defined nuttiness. The taste went in the same direction, but also had a marked toast character and a sweetness underpinning everything.


Hotate [$26.00] | raw scallop & seasonal truffles in a truffle-sauce with oba
Scallops conveyed a cool, sweet brine, one layered with earthy truffle notes and the minty finish of oba.


Ebi [$12.00] | raw spotted shrimp with yuzu-soymilk foam & ikura
A single shrimp arrived super sweet, with a great snap to it, and worked well with the smokiness of the salmon roe. However, I wasn't a fan of the foam, which was almost disconcertingly thick, though it did impart a not unwelcomed fruitiness to the finish.




Uni Toast [$18.00] | toasted japanese shokupan, topped with cherry blossom smoked uni seasoned with soy
There were some theatrics with this next course. I got plenty of smoky, pungent flavors up front, which quickly led to the signature sweetness of the sea urchin. The bread was absolutely key, providing a counterpoint both in terms of taste and texture.


Mikko [$16.00] | gem & bolt mezcal, hebess cool, yuzu juice, hibiscus syrup, fragola
We made sure to try a few of the cocktails as well. Our first smelled strongly of strawberry and smoke--not unexpected given the ingredients at play. The palate, meanwhile, displayed more mezcal notes commingled with lots of sweet, fruity nuances.


Oshinko [$8.00] | house-made nukazuke pickled vegetables
We were curious about the pickle plate. The cucumbers were pleasantly crunchy, with a marked sweetness leading to a tart finish, while the carrots were even sweeter, and not very pickle-y at all. The radishes, finally, were hot and bitter, but again, not particularly pickle-y.


Ohitashi [$11.00] | organic vegetables in a chilled rosemary-kombu broth
Here we had what I believe was cool, bitter, boiled spinach, set in an unmistakably floral broth. Sorta neat.


Uni Ice-Cream [$20.00] | savory house-made uni ice cream with fresh sea urchin
This course did a commendable job balancing the classic character of ice cream with the oceany sweetness of the urchin, and I much appreciated the pops of salt here as well. A table favorite.


Gari [$16.00] | mura shochu, lime juice, ginger syrup, club soda
Our next cocktail was ostensibly ginger-focused, though I actually got very little gari. Instead, I found this sweet-ish, soft, and very easy-drinking.


Daily Special Chawanmushi [$24.00] | steamed egg custard served with seasonal truffles
The chawanmushi was another favorite thanks to its cozy flavors amped up by the unmistakable funk of truffle.


Tomato & Truffled Burrata [$28.00] | topped with dashi gelée, sumiso, plum, kaiware and oba
Tomato and burrata combined in classic fashion, and I quite liked the interaction, especially when paired with the umami notes of that dashi jelly. Su-miso imparted a burst of acidity, while the truffle again made its earthy self known.


Ten Pieces Sashimi [$52.00] | chef's fresh market selection 2 slices, 5 kinds of fish
Our moriawase featured cuts of classically dense, rich tuna that went great with a dab of wasabi; soft, clean snapper; slightly chewy kinmedai; sweet, unctuous salmon; and firm, crunchy, fatty amberjack.


Kyoto [$16.00] | ki no bi gin, galliano l'aperitivo, osborne px sherry, wasabi salt water
Next was perhaps the most interesting cocktail of the bunch. I got a bitter, herbaceous nose that was somehow very familiar, while the palate was sweet from the PX, but also a touch astringent, and quite floral.


Tofu Ganmodoki [$15.00] | tofu and mushroom fritter with seasonal vegetables in a mushroom sauce
Ganmodoki isn't something I encounter all that often, so it was nice to see it here. The fritter definitely had a hearty, substantial consistency, with plenty of woodsy flavors that were amplified even more by the included sauce.




Truffle Rice Pot [$60.00] | slow cooked rice in a clay pot with seasonal ingredients
Not surprisingly, we found the rice pot a very homey, comforting, gratifying sort of dish. Mushrooms provided a base of umami, while the truffles made things all the better.


Chicken Nanban [$18.00] | lightly fried organic chicken, garlic-carrot-ginger marinade topped with japanese tartar sauce
The fried chicken was so good that we had to get two orders. The bird came out delicately fried, and had a lovely tartness to it that married beautifully with the creaminess of the tartar sauce. Nice zestiness from the scallions, too.


Mukashi [$16.00] | akashi ume whisky, ginger syrup, shiso leaf, whisky vanilla soaked cherry
Our fourth and final cocktail smelled of fragrant vanilla and berry fruit--not bad at all. Taste-wise, it was much softer and much sweeter than I'd anticipated, with a lot of vanilla, and I definitely wanted to get more of the actual whisky.


Yasai Tempura [$20.00] | organic vegetables, lightly fried, served with yuzu and wasabi infused salts
I was quite fond of the tempura, which came out hot and crispy. The frying was on the lighter side, so the veggies were really able to shine, and the salt on the side worked great as an accent.


Saikyo Miso Cod [$26.00] | broiled alaskan black cod marinated in saikyo miso
This is the ubiquitous miso cod preparation that you see everywhere, and Hanare's was a pretty decent example. Think rich and buttery, with light char and a tart contrast from the hajikami (pickled ginger shoot).



Miyazaki Wagyu A5 [$145.00] | 8 oz selection of A5 grade japanese beef seasoned with rokusuke salt
A5 beef from Miyazaki Prefecture was fatty and flavorful, as one would imagine, and made sense with simple seasonings of salt and pepper. However, perhaps because it was cut so thin, I didn't find the meat as satisfying as I'd hoped for.


The 1995 Kalin Cellars Chardonnay Cuvée W was our second wine of the evening, and a quite interesting one at that. Its nose was definitely on the mature side, with nutty, sherry-like notes joined by a noticeable oxidative quality. On the palate, I found it savory and nutty once again, while there was also this tart acidity and traces of fruit for good measure.


Foie Gras Temaki [$25.00] | build your own handroll with foie gras sauteed in butter soy
Foie came out as rich as you'd expect, but also with a considerable smokiness that I didn't mind. It was actually quite nicely balanced when taken with the included rice and seaweed.


Yaki Shabu Sushi [$20.00] | seared washugyu ribeye shabu sushi with garlic soy
A sort of rejiggered beef sushi was tasty enough, the potency of the rib eye tempered by a combination of soy, scallion, and shari.


As for the sweet stuff, Chateau Hanare's got an assortment of desserts that follows the feel of the rest of the menu. Click for a larger version.


Hoji-Cha Panna Cotta [$12.00] | Japanese roasted green tea panna cotta with seasonal sorbet & hoji-cha crisp
A hojicha panna cotta certainly conveyed the bitter, roasty notes of the tea, while the sorbet imparted a necessary sweetness to the mix.


Digestif duties were handled by a glass of Komagatake Tsunuki Aged [$41]. Hot nose filled with caramel, honey, and apple. On the palate, this was spicy and somewhat smoky, with a sweetness resembling brown sugar and vanilla.


Chocolate Tart with Yamazaki Whisky Ice Cream [$16.00] | Warm chocolate tart, with Yamazaki whisky & kokutou ice cream
A puck-shaped chocolate tart worked out well enough, but the star for me was the ice cream, which actually did a nice job conveying the essence of the advertised whisky.


Soba Tea Brûlée [$9.00] | Buckwheat tea brûlée with buckwheat shortbread
Hanare's take on crème brûlée ate pretty true to the classic dessert, as the soba wasn't immediately obvious.


Strawberry Kiwi [$12.00] | Lavender-marinated seasonal fruits with a soymilk sorbet
Fresh fruit was accompanied by some intensely floral flavors, which I didn't mind, though the sorbet didn't really come into play for me.


To close: meringues dusted with matcha.

This stretch of Sunset isn't home to all that many Japanese joints, so it's nice to have Chateau Hanare as another offering. That being said, I'm not sure the place is doing enough to stand out from the myriad of Japanese options in LA. There wasn't anything particularly wrong per se, however for some reason the restaurant just didn't leave much of an impression. But then again, that's just me, and maybe the Hollywood set will dig it.

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Kabob Palace (Arlington, VA)

August 14, 2018, 2:20 pm

≫ Next: The Hearth & Hound (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Chateau Hanare (Los Angeles, CA)

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Kabob Palace Restaurant
2315 S Eads St, Arlington, VA 22202
703.486.3535
www.kabobpalaceusa.com
Thu 08/09/2018, 02:20p-03:15p





You might recall that I went to Crystal City's famous Kabob Palace back in July. I wasn't particularly enamored with it, but I later found out that I'd actually gone to the "wrong" spot, that is, not the original Kabob Palace. Well, I wanted to make sure to give the original a proper go. Confusingly, the O.G. restaurant is actually located just 50 feet up the street, and was opened back in 1992 by Habib Akbar and his older brother Mohammad Akbar, both of whom hail from Afghanistan. The joint quickly established itself as a standby for local cabbies (in part because it's open 24 hours), and to this day Lyft/Uber drivers still talk highly of the place (which I how I found out about it to begin with). Given how busy they were, the Akbars decided to open up a second location in mid-2004, a full-service eatery designed to appeal to families (which is where I went last time). Interestingly, they even launched a food truck in December 2012, but it proved to be short-lived.



Inside, things are about what I expected. Note all the award plaques adorning the walls.


The Afghan-meets-Pakistani menu reads very similarly to that of the other restaurant, though prices, curiously, seem to be slightly higher here. Click for larger versions.


Lamb Chop [$16.35] | Lamb chop marinated in our special house seasoning
To keep the comparison with the second location as fair as possible, I ordered the same thing this go around. The presentation is fairly similar, and as always, you get a serving of that zippy mint-yogurt condiment for your dipping pleasure.



The lamb chops were perhaps slightly less gristly, and perhaps seasoned slightly better, but the differences weren't major. Hell, any perceived improvements may not even be real at all--maybe it's just my mind believing what it wants to believe.


I will say that the salad was certainly less ambitious here, and was also underdressed. I didn't mind it too much though, since the veggies did work as a contrast to all the meat.


I'd actually say that there was more of an appreciable variation in the Mango Lassi [$3.18], which seemed to have a more robust, truer mango taste.


The spinach was arguably the best thing on the plate, its classically bitter-savory flavors matching up well with the hearty chunks of potato while the slick, long-grained rice worked to moderate it all.


The pita/naan, unfortunately, was still denser and chewier than I'd like. It was almost difficult to tear apart.


Chicken Boneless Kabob [$10.00]
I made sure to try the chicken kabobs as well. Again, there was good char, good seasoning here, but I still found the bird overdone, dry, and "crunchy" in spots.

I wanted to love Kabob Palace, but I just can't. Is the food better than at the other location? Maybe a touch, or maybe that's just my imagination. I was really looking for more, and I have to say that I just don't understand the hype surrounding this place.

The Hearth & Hound (Los Angeles, CA)

August 24, 2018, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Hayato (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Kabob Palace (Arlington, VA)

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The Hearth and Hound Restaurant
6530 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90028
323.320.4022
www.thehearthandhound.com
Fri 08/24/2018, 08:15p-11:10p



As of late I seem to be doing more than my usual share of dining in Hollywood--which is surprising even to me--and my latest meal brought me to April Bloomfield's beleaguered Hearth & Hound. The restaurant sits in the former home of Cat & Fiddle, an English-style pub that was originally opened in Laurel Canyon in 1982 by British musician Kim Gardner (at the site of the current Pace). Cat & Fiddle moved to its Sunset location in 1985, where it remained for almost 30 years before closing in December 2014 due to lease issues (it ended up relocating to the former home of Mud Hen Tavern). Meanwhile, the space was acquired by Bloomfield and business partner Ken Friedman (with Bill Chait in the mix, curiously), and they opened the place up for business last December.

About the Chef: Bloomfield was born in 1974 in Birmingham, England. Her mother worked at home painting porcelain bomboniere for Halcyon Days Ltd, while stepdad was an engineer; neither were foodie types. She initially wanted to become a police officer, but ended up missing the application deadline for the cadet program. With that option off the table, she decided to follow in her sister's footsteps and go to catering college. Bloomfield ended up enrolling at the Birmingham College of Food, Tourism and Creative Studies (now University College Birmingham), and quickly fell in love with the craft. Her first industry gig was that of a dishwasher at a local joint called The Mill, and after graduation, she started working at a nearby Holiday Inn. Six months later, she left for London and secured a commis position at Rowley Leigh's Kensington Place, a role she stayed at until 1993. Bloomfield's next job was at the Michelin House's Bibendum, under Simon Hopkinson.

From there, she relocated to Northern Ireland and worked at Paul Rankin's Roscoff in Belfast, the first restaurant in the country to be awarded a Michelin star. She eventually returned to London, cooked for a bit at Kensington Place again, then went over to The Brackenbury. In 1999, a friend got Bloomfield a position at the iconic The River Café, where she served as sous for co-owners Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers. Four years later, upon Jamie Oliver's recommendation, she was recruited by Mario Batali to open a restaurant in New York with him and music industry veteran Ken Friedman. She thus moved to the US, and to familiarize herself with American ingredients, worked for a few months at the illustrious Chez Panisse (who knows, maybe she cooked for me during my first visit to the restaurant in 2003).

The Spotted Pig opened in the West Village in February 2004; it was a smashing success, and would help kick start the gastropub movement Stateside. The restaurant secured a Michelin star in the first NYC edition of the guide in 2005, and managed to keep it until 2016. Bloomfield was named one of "America's Best New Chefs" by Food & Wine in 2007, and was deemed a "Best Chef: New York City" semifinalist by James Beard from 2008 to 2010. She was then a "Best Chef: New York City" nominee from 2011 to 2013 before finally winning in 2014 (Friedman, meanwhile, was awarded "Outstanding Restaurateur" honors by Beard in 2016). Given how well The Spotted Pig was doing, expansion was a must. She, Friedman, Batali, and Joe Bastianich opened The John Dory at the end of November 2008, though the place would prove to be short-lived, shuttering the next year. Bloomfield and Friedman then teamed up to open The Breslin at the Breslin Hotel (now Ace Hotel) in 2009; the steakhouse was Michelin-starred the next year. This was followed by The John Dory Oyster Bar in 2010, in the same hotel.

The Chef released her first cookbook, A Girl and Her Pig with JJ Goode, in March 2012. Bloomfield/Friedman also began working with the Pod 39 Hotel in 2012, and launched Salvation Taco at the property in December that year. The pair then expanded their business to the West Coast, and, along with Chef/Partner Josh Even, took over the longstanding Tosca Cafe in San Francisco. They renovated the storied place (founded in 1919) and reopened in October 2013 to considerable fanfare. A second cookbook, A Girl and Her Greens, dropped in April 2015, while February 2016 had the opening of Salvation Burger inside the Pod 51 Hotel (it didn't last long, closing the next July). In April 2016, Bloomfield (sans Friedman) teamed up with Chef Tom Adams and purchased Coombeshead Farm in Lewannick, Cornwall, England, which remains her only project in the UK. Meanwhile, that October, she and Friedman debuted White Gold Butchers with partners Jocelyn Guest and Erika Nakamura (ex-Lindy & Grundy). The two then focused their efforts on LA, and would open The Hearth & Hound in December 2017.

However, in an unfortunate bit of timing, just days later news broke that Friedman had a history of sexually harassing his employees (and that Bloomfield didn't do enough to curb his behavior). He soon took a leave of absence, but that didn't stop a wave of departures from the restaurant group, which included three key chefs: The Spotted Pig's Katharine Marsh, The Breslin's Christina Lecki, The John Dory's Charlene Santiago. The Hearth & Hound, meanwhile, lost its head and pastry chefs as well as its wine director. In March 2018, Guest and Nakamura decamped from White Gold, while Bloomfield and Friedman would relinquish their role in Salvation Taco in May. Tosca Cafe's Josh Even and Business Manager Dana Katzakian also departed in May, after unsuccessfully trying to purchase the restaurant from the two principal partners.

It took until mid-2018 for Bloomfield and Friedman to unravel their holdings. The former took over Tosca Cafe and Hearth & Hound here in California, and remained chef at the two restaurants inside the Ace Hotel. Meanwhile, Friedman was given The Spotted Pig and White Gold (White Gold, however, ended up closing just two months later). And in an interesting twist, in June it was announced that Prune's Gabrielle Hamilton and Ashley Merriman would be joining the team at The Spotted Pig. However, this was met with a good amount of outrage, and the deal was eventually nixed after the parties couldn't agree to financial terms. Currently, Friedman is supposedly being investigated by the New York attorney general and sued by the owners of the Ace for financial shenanigans, while word is that The Spotted Pig isn't doing nearly the numbers it did in happier times.



The 1927-era building was redone by Roman and Williams, the firm behind The Breslin/John Dory as well as The Exchange here in LA. The dining room is a warm, homey space, centered around an open kitchen and the namesake hearth, and there's also the private Casablanca Room for 18. Out front is the charming courtyard patio, replete with its own fountain and olive tree.


Hearth & Hound's menu is of moderate length, and shows off a Cal-Med slant with an emphasis on vegetables and wood-fired cookery. Libation-wise, you get an appealing cocktail list, a smattering of beer, and a mostly Old World wine list. Click for larger versions.


Beef Tartare with Harissa + Sprouted Lentils [$16.00]
I've had my fair share of beef tartars, and I'll say that this was one of the more venturesome examples I've had. The meat itself ate springy and substantial, and I loved the back-and-forth between the zesty, almost astringent sprouts and the nuttiness of the pinoli, while a persistent harissa-fueled spice bound it all together. Excellent contrast in texture from the crackers, too. A promising start.


Patatas Bravas with Aioli [$13.00]
Next was Bloomfield's take on papas bravas. The potatoes came out well-textured, though the (tomato-based?) sauce they were covered in was a bit too heavy-handed. Fortunately, the included aioli did provide a much-needed balance, and I liked the citrusy kick from the sprinkles of cilantro.


Apollo's Boar [$10.00] | Sweet Vermouth, Sherry, Suze, Orange Bitters, Prosecco
To drink, I began with the evening's featured cocktail, which was definitely on the apéritif-y side. It smelled great: bright, citrusy, super refreshing. The palate was fizzy, and showcased more citrus up front, joined by dark fruit notes from the vermouth and the sherry's dry, nutty, oxidized nuances. Lovely.


Pork Terrine with Mustard + Chive [$9.00]
A rustic pork pâté was fatty and flavorful, its considerable heft cut by the zippy combination of mustard and chive. My favorite thing, though, just might've been that bread, with its perfect smokiness, toastiness, and drizzles of oil.


Grilled Peach with Mint + Goat Cheese [$16.00]
Now this was a pleasant surprise. I was a fan of the stone fruit and its perfect marriage of sweetness and smoke, while the creamy, tangy character of the cheese and that crunchy, nutty tuile(?) served as effective counterpoints. Nice peppery accent from the arugula, too.


El Tri [$12.00] | Mezcal, Yellow Chartreuse, Passion Fruit, Lime, Espelette
Our next cocktail was a fun one. I got massive notes of sweet-tart passion fruit, but this was evened out by the herbaceous nature of the Chartreuse, while the smoky mezcal showed up just a bit. I didn't taste much from the espelette, however.


Grilled Octopus with Melon + Chili Jam [$18.00]
As you probably know, I'm a bit of an octo fiend, so this was a must-order. It turned out to be a winner, and actually one of the more intriguing preparations I've had lately. The octopus was as tender as I wanted, with a great char to boot. What was surprising was the melon, which contributed a refreshing fruitiness that actually made a lot of sense. The finishing touch? A superb pinch of heat from the chili jam.


Chicken with Cornichon, Shallot + Trumpet Royale [$28.00]
The chicken came out tender and pretty juicy too. It was an aggressively seasoned bird (probably too much so), while the cornichons gave the dish a persistent tartness. The king trumpets, meanwhile, added further oomph and umami, not to mention a bit of textural variation that I appreciated.


Tributary [$14.00] | Scotch and Japanese Whisky, Smoked White Blossom Earl Grey
I pretty much enjoy Earl Grey in all its forms, so this next cocktail was a no-brainer. Aromas were appealing, with sweet, vibrant, apple-like notes dominating. The palate displayed fruity, floral flavors from the tea, commingled with smoke and the unmistakable punch and burn of the whiskies.


Mixed Peppers with Charred Onion + Cilantro [$14.00]
This was another pleasant surprise, and no doubt of the best pepper-centric dishes I've had. The key was how there was a sweetness present that perfectly tempered the prickly heat and char of the chilies. It was a super smart combination, and one made even better by the generous helping of cilantro up top.


Pork Chop with Rhubarb + Pork Jus [$25.00]
The pork was just about as soft and succulent as any I've had. It was also unabashedly fatty, and very assertively flavored. The dollop of rhubarb provided a tartness, but I actually could've done without it.


Cold Snap [$15.00] | Tequila Blanco, Pear, Ginger, Cinnamon Bark, Lemon
The evening's final cocktail was this Penicillin-ish number. There was a sharp bite from the ginger and lemon, but this married well with the tequila, with all the various elements mellowing each other out. I also detected hints of overarching cinnamon, which was appreciated.


There's a small, straightforward dessert selection that pretty much follows the theme of the rest of the menu. Click for larger versions.


Plum Crostata [$8.00] | with Salted Pistachios + Buttermilk Ice Cream
A crusty, rustic crostata deftly showed off the stone fruit in concert with savory bits of pistachio. The ice cream, meanwhile, was superb, and I wouldn't have minded more of it.


Banana Bread [$8.00] | with Rum + Kefir Cream
The banana bread made for a fitting end to our meal. Flavors were dark, heady, fruity, with the additional depth and complexity of rum and a persistent, contrasting bitterness. I quite liked the crunchiness of those banana chips, too.

I came into Hearth & Hound trying to focus just on the food, and left pretty satisfied. The cooking sort of blends Bloomfield's brand of gastropubby cooking that she's known for with a decidedly Californian feel: "a little bit of fresh, a little bit of fat" in the Chef's own words. The end result is some robust cuisine that doesn't hold back and works most of the time. All controversy aside, this is a solid addition to the Hollywood dining scene, and LA overall.

Hayato (Los Angeles, CA)

September 12, 2018, 6:40 pm

≫ Next: Koi Japanese Cuisine (Seal Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: The Hearth & Hound (Los Angeles, CA)

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Hayato Restaurant at ROW DTLA
1320 E 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.395.0607
www.hayatorestaurant.com
Wed 09/12/2018, 06:40p-11:20p





For me, the most exciting opening at Downtown's new ROW complex is no doubt Hayato, Brandon Go's ode to kappo ryori cooking. The place debuted in January, but only serving the Chef's highly curated bento boxes, which are available Wednesdays through Saturdays at $46 an order. Only 16 boxes are prepared a day--all for takeout--and must be paid for in advance. However, we were here for one of Hayato's kaiseki-style dinners, which commenced at the end of July. The roughly 10-course menu is priced at $200 a head, not inclusive of tax or a 16% service charge, and requires a $100 pre-paid deposit. Reservations are available up to four weeks in advance, and there's only one seating a night: 7:00p.

About the Chef: Brandon Hayato Go was born in Santa Monica and grew up in the restaurant business. His father Kunio Go owns Koi in Seal Beach, a Japanese eatery that he opened back in 1980, and which has been in continous operation ever since. The younger Go began working there in June 1993, when he was just 15 years old. After finishing high school, he went to UCLA and studied biology (mom wanted him to become a doctor), and kept manning the sushi bar throughout his college years. He graduated in 2000, and continued working at the family business, eventually becoming General Manager in 2003. In October that year, Go went to Tokyo and apprenticed at Yakushi Izakaya for four months, where he began to really explore the breadth of Japanese cuisine beyond sushi. Meanwhile, 2009 saw the Chef gain certifications in sake and soba from the Sake Education Council and the Tsukiji Soba Academy, respectively, all while he still was running Koi.

In October 2012, he interned for two months at Shiro in Omotesando under Chef Takeshi Kubo (of the new Goryu Kubo in Nishi-Azabu), who subsequently became an important friend and mentor (Kubo apparently supplied roughly a third of Hayato's tableware). The following May, Go spent five weeks staging at Kagurazaka Ishikawa, under Chef Hideki Ishikawa. He returned for further training in October 2013, March 2014, and December 2016 (for osechi), and was also able to cook at Ishikawa's other restaurants: Kohaku (headed by Kouji Koizumi) and Ren. Having worked in Japanese restaurants since his teenage years, Go had always wanted to have his own place, and thus started constructing Hayato at the end of 2016. He left his post at Koi in October 2017 in preparation for the restaurant's 2018 opening.


Hidden behind koshi latticework is a small space centered on Go's seven-seater Port Orford cedar (the closest we can get to hinoki in the US) counter facing an open kitchen (note the glowing binchotan). There's also a six-person tatami seating area that should be constructed in the coming months.



To drink, you get a compact, reasonably-priced sake list, a handful of Japanese beers, and a surprisingly lengthy wine list. Corkage is $40 a bottle, limit one, and sake is not permitted. Click for larger versions.


Upon being seated, we were welcomed with some Dassai 39 Junmai Daiginjo, Yamaguchi, served in a surprisingly hefty metallic ochoko. The sake featured aromas that were decidedly sweet, floral, almost candied in fact. Taste-wise, I found it nutty and sweet and soft, with lots of fruit and a touch of alcoholic heat creeping in on the back end.


We'd brought along a bottle of NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée 165eme Edition, which was based on the 2009 vintage and apparently the smallest batch of the cuvée ever produced. The wine smelled of racy apple and citrus, along with toast, stone, and barnyard in the background. The palate was zesty, vivacious, crisp, almost bracing, and showed off more breadiness, lemon, and green apple peel. The wine's still young, and has a long life ahead of it.


1: Santa Barbara Ebi
We commenced with the sakizuke course, which featured live Santa Barbara spot prawns, seared rare over binchotan, with okra, mozuku, fava beans, and a tosazu jelly, all garnished with shiso blossoms. It was a strong start to be sure, and I especially appreciated the shrimp's semi-cooked texture, which straddled the line between creamy and crunchy. Taste-wise, I detected a light brine, on top of which was layered the tartness of the rice vinegar and the brightness of the crisp-yet-mucilaginous okra pods and favas, all while the shiso contributed a floral note to the dish.


2: Kakiage Tempura
Agemono duties were handled by a light, delicate kakiage of corn, Hokkaido scallop, and mitsuba. The interplay between the sweet corn and the otherwise savory nature of the course definitely worked here, with the mitsuba serving as a crucial counterpoint. Excellent exclamation point from the salt, too.


At this point, assistant James (who worked at Mori Sushi for over a year before this) offered us our choice of ochoko. My strategy for choosing sake cups is practical: pick the largest one so I don't have to refill as often.


3: Saba Sushi
Next came Go's version of Kyoto-style sabazushi, incorporating cured Nagasaki mackerel. The fish was vibrant: super fresh and super clean, with a fine-spun salinity and focused flavors of vinegar perfectly paired with rice, crisp nori seaweed, and the nuttiness of sesame. I'm not sure if I've ever tasted saba quite like this--this was probably one of the most memorable pieces of sushi I've ever had.


The Daishichi "Minowamon" Junmai Daiginjo [$104] was our next beverage. The sake had an intense, heady nose filled with sweet, floral, ricey nuances. On the palate, I found it soft, sweet, and smooth, with creamy, melon-like characteristics and a slightly boozy undertone.



4: Kani Owan
Here was the owan, or lidded course. The lacquered bowl contained a suimono (like a very light dashi broth), along with live Dungeness crab and yuzu skin (from the first yuzus they bought for this year). The crab ate sweet, soft, and substantial, and displayed a refined brine that married perfectly with the subtle-but-savory broth, all while the yuzu imparted a wonderful citric sharpness to the mix. This was a favorite of mine, and one of the best Dungeness preparations I've had for sure.


5: Tai Sashimi
Sea bream from Ibaraki Prefecture was accompanied by myoga, shiso, wasabi (freshly grated on a shark skin oroshigane right in front of us), soy sauce, and salt. The fish was a prime example, coming out clean and creamy, with a soft, subdued flavor profile that really took well to a dab of shoyu and a dollop of the especially intense 'sabi. The salt was an interesting addition as well, as according to the Chef, it's meant for wine drinkers (since it doesn't interfere as much as soy) and tends to draw out more of the flavors of the wasabi. Meanwhile, the myoga worked beautifully as a sort of palate cleanser.


6: Awabi Mushi
Above we see abalone, steamed in sake, mirin, and soy sauce, accompanied by cubes of abalone stock, wasabi, and a sauce made from the diluted innards of the sea snail. The texture of the awabi was flawless, a mix of pliant and firm, while its taste showed off plenty of umami, which was amplified even further by the solidified stock, all while the innards sauce imparted an additional depth and complexity.


Next to imbibe was a glass of the Mizubasho Ginjo, Gunma [$15], served from a magnum. Aromas here were relatively mild; I got a tropical sweetness commingled with wood and funk. The taste had more of those rustic, earthy notes, as well as more fruit, salinity, and a light alcoholic burn.


7: Yaki Nodoguro
The yakimono course comprised blackthroat seaperch, which I'd had raw and seared before, but never fully cooked. Chef Go believes that grilling the fish is the way to go, and he was right on the money. The akamutsu (another name for it) was wonderfully flaky and light (almost crab-like, I thought), but also fatty and rich at the same time, with an intensity that matched flawlessly with the char and smoke present. On the side, meanwhile, were cuts of grilled gobo (burdock) with a bit of soy sauce. One of my dining companions commented that this was the best piece of grilled fish he'd ever eaten. I think I may have to agree with him.


8: Hamo Karaage
Karaage of pike conger was set in gin-ankake (thickened dashi with light soy and sake) and topped with shiso and the traditional accoutrement of ume. The eel was a delight texturally, and I found the small shards of bone present especially intriguing (the fish has many small bones that are impossible to completely remove, so they must be chopped up using a special hamokiri knife). Taste-wise, the hamo conveyed a subdued-yet-satisfying savoriness that matched up well with the piquancy of the plum sauce.


Our final sake was the Born "Nihon no Tsubasa" (Wing of Japan) [$172.50]. It had a dainty nose displaying flowers, some red fruit, and a savory, almost "meaty" quality. Taste-wise, I found it soft, with a marked fruitiness, a mature complexity, and a touch of heat on the finish.


9: Aka Amadai
Prized in Kyoto cookery, red amadai was served with bamboo shoots, chrysanthemum greens, and shiitakes, all cooked in the dish's dashi broth (which was simmered longer to draw out more flavor). The fish was properly flaky and very clean tasting, a harmonious blend of finesse and potency, and I especially appreciated the tanginess of those greens, too.



10: Kamasu Kamameshi
Our final savory course was a kamameshi of barracuda, which made for a superb end to the meal. I loved the salinity of the fish here, and how that meshed with the zippiness of mitsuba, the rice serving as a homey base to it all. And yes, we ate the whole thing (I think I took down four bowls just by myself).


Along with the kamameshi came a cup of bitter, roasty hojicha.



Further kamameshi accompaniments included tsukemono (pickles) and a hearty, cozy miso soup.


A cup of sencha marked the arrival of dessert.



11: Momo
For dessert, the Chef brought out a heaping bowl of Blossom Bluff Orchards peaches encased in sake jelly. Think sweet and tart and juicy and utterly refreshing. Yum.


With our sake all drunk up, we moved on to a couple beers to close out the evening. Our first was the Yo-Ho Sorry Umami IPA [$10], which is brewed with bonito flakes. I really didn't taste much from the katsuobushi though (it was slightly more apparent on the nose). Instead, I found the beer zippy and herbaceous, with a floral bent and clear notes of citrus.



We were given a bonus course of sweet, briny tamago, which is typically included in Hayato's bentos.


Last up was the Kiuchi Hitachino Nest Yuzu Lager [$10], which I'll say definitely wasn't shy about the yuzu. An invigorating finish to the night.

Hayato is an exceptional additional to the LA dining scene, and the meal tonight was surely one of my best of 2018. There's a purity to the cooking here. The food isn't showy or particularly groundbreaking, but rather, the precision and polish involved is what should get you eager and excited. Go's ingredients are top notch, and he lets them "do the work" so to speak, with relatively minimal manipulation, which results in a certain clarity, a robustness of flavor, a complexity derived from simplicity if you will. This is refreshingly "old school" stuff, real-deal washoku cooking that you don't see all that often, so I'm hoping Angelenos will respond positively to it.

Koi Japanese Cuisine (Seal Beach, CA)

October 8, 2018, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Simone (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Hayato (Los Angeles, CA)

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Koi Restaurant
600 Pacific Coast Hwy, Seal Beach, CA 90740
562.431.1186
www.koisealbeach.com / www.koisushi.com
Mon 10/08/2018, 07:00p-08:55p





I had an excellent meal at Brandon Go's new Hayato not long ago, and that experience inspired me to report on Koi Japanese Cuisine, which I'd actually been meaning to do for years. If you recall, Koi is the restaurant owned by Brandon's father, Kunio Go. The place was opened all the way back in 1980, and is where the younger Go cut his teeth and first got interested in Japanese cooking. Do note that the restaurant is absolutely not affiliated with the scene-y Koi on La Cienega.


1: Sashimi Moriawase
We sat at the bar in front of Chef Shim-san and opted for omakase, which came out to a not unreasonable $90 a head. Our first course was an impressive-looking sashimi platter comprising:

• Otoro - Coming from Croatia, the tuna possessed a melt-in-your-mouth richness that called out for a dab of wasabi for balance.
• Uni - Luscious texturally, the sea urchin ate clean and sweet, with a tempering bitterness on the finish.
• Hamachi Hara - Cuts of yellowtail belly were dense and fatty, and really sang with a brush of soy sauce.
• Mirugai - Geoduck showed off a great crunch, while flavors were both sweet and saline.
• Hotate - Live scallop was utterly fresh and clean, with a restrained, fruity brine.
• Amaebi - The sweet shrimp was spot on with its pure, focused flavors and snappy consistency.
• Awabi - Abalone had a thick, satisfying chew to it, while its taste was more on the delicate side.
• Aji - Spanish mackerel was super clean-tasting, and worked beautifully with its classic trappings of ginger and scallion.

2: Matsutake Dobinmushi
This is one of the dishes I always look forward to at Japanese restaurants come matsutake season, and Koi's version didn't disappoint. I loved the hot, cozy broth, which was well-imbued with the woodsy essence of the mushroom. A squirt of sudachi, meanwhile, added an offsetting tartness that worked great as a exclamation point. Perfect for the autumn.


To drink, we went with some beer, the 2018 Monkish Drip with Sunset, a wild ale aged in oak barrels with Masumoto Family Farm Suncrest peaches. I found it tart, acidic, and quite dry, with bright stone fruit flavors and earthiness commingled with plenty of the advertised oak. Do note that corkage is $18.50 a bottle.


3: Hotate
The innards from the live scallop above were combined with mushrooms and asparagus and turned into this hefty, gratifying dish. A nice contrast to the lighter flavors we were having earlier.


4: Ebi No Atama
Naturally, the heads from the sweet shrimp we had were subsequently fried. You can bet that this was just as crunchy and savory and tasty as I expected.


5: Lamb Chops
Now this was a surprise. Lamb was treated to a sweet 'n' savory marinade, making for some tender, juicy, delicious chops that were even better when paired with that bright, vibrant basil sauce on the side. I enjoyed the herby, homey potatoes, too.



At this point we moved on into the evening's sushi assortment, which was composed of nine selections. It was a nice looking plate, though I do wish that each piece of nigiri were served individually.


6a: Toro
The tuna belly was oh-so indulgent, and really hit the spot with a dab of soy. Yum.

6b: Kanpachi
Amberjack was a delight, and really paired well with its dollop of yuzukosho up top. Note that I forgot to take individual photos of the next few courses, as apparently I was having too good of a time eating.

6c: Hiramasa
The yellowtail amberjack was a firm, fatty fish that really opened up with a brush of soy.

6d: Tai
Wild Japanese snapper was accompanied by a topping of smoky shishito, which actually didn't overwhelm the delicate flavors of the fish, much to my surprise.

6e: Mirugai
Geoduck clam was satisfyingly crunchy, and conveyed an aggressive salinity that matched up well with the included nori and wasabi.

6f: Uni
Sea urchin was soft and sweet, with an "eggy" sort of quality and a strong minerality on the back end.


6g: Negitori Maki
Here we had fatty tuna and scallion in perfect harmony, moderated by the rice and a thin layer of seaweed. Classic and always enjoyable.


6h: Toro Tataki
The searing of the toro seemed to amplify its potency, so an accompaniment of marinated, grated radish served as an effective counterpoint.


6i: Gyusashi
Last up was the wagyu sushi. I got a lot of wasabi up front, but this quickly transitioned to the unmistakable, lingering richness of the fatty beef.



7: Ice Cream
For dessert we had a super sweet, fruity lychee ice cream and a pretty prototypical chocolate ice cream.

I grew up in the Seal Beach area, so I'd been aware of Koi for over 20 years, but never reported on the restaurant until now. That's a damn shame, because the place is a gem, a local favorite, a real mainstay in the community. Go-san is there most nights, and is an affable host to boot. I guess there's a reason why the place has been going strong for 38 years.

Simone (Los Angeles, CA)

October 12, 2018, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Alta Adams (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Koi Japanese Cuisine (Seal Beach, CA)

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Simone Restaurant
449 S Hewitt St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
424.433.3000
www.simoneartsdistrict.com
Fri 10/12/2018, 08:00p-12:15a





The Arts District landed another notable eatery with the debut of Simone on September 20th. Named after singer Nina Simone, the restaurant serves up plant-focused Cal-cuisine fare and comes to us from Chef/Owner Jessica Largey, who's most known for her work at David Kinch's seminal Manresa up in Los Gatos. Joining Largey on the team is Managing Partner Bruno Bagbeni, who started his FOH career in New York but also spent time at Fig & Olive, Fraiche, and Bastide (with Alain Giraud) here in LA. Director Joe Russo (of the recent Avengers: Infinity War, among others) is an investor as well, as is comedian Joel McHale (The Soup, Community).

About the Chef: Largey hails from Fillmore, a small agricultural town in California's Ventura County. She grew up surrounded by plenty of farmland, and, influenced by both her mom and grandmother, began cooking at the age of 5, apparently starting with a dish of scrambled eggs. After high school, she enrolled at the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena, and was able to land an internship at Michael Cimarusti's widely-lauded Providence in 2005, when she was 19. She continued to work at Providence following culinary school, and stayed there until she left to stage at Heston Blumenthal's celebrated restaurant The Fat Duck in England in December 2007. Largey returned to LA in January 2008 and became opening chef at LAMILL Coffee, which had a menu created by the Providence team; she was there until May that year. It was also in May 2008 that she met David Kinch for the first time. Kinch was in town for a 5x5 Chef's Collaborative dinner at Providence (I was actually there that fateful night), and she was assigned to assist him with his mussel dish. She kept in touch with Kinch, and eventually secured a stage at Manresa that fall. In July 2008, Largey became a poissonnier at the storied Bastide in West Hollywood, which was run by Paul Shoemaker at the time (another Providence alum).

She left Bastide in December that year, and started working as a chef de partie at Manresa in March 2009. In March 2011, she was promoted to sous, while CdC status was achieved in May 2012. Largey received a number of accolades during this period, including: StarChefs' San Francisco Bay Area Rising Stars (May 2013), Zagat's 30 Under 30 in the Bay Area (July 2013), James Beard's Rising Star Chef of the Year nominee (March 2014), and San Francisco Chronicle's Rising Star Chefs (March 2014). She was able to win Rising Star Chef of the Year in May 2015, but would leave Manresa shortly after (replaced by Mitch Lienhard of Saison). She took some time off to travel, then returned to cooking in February 2016 as a rotating guest chef at Rich Melman's Intro in Chicago. Following the completion of her residency that May, she relocated to Los Angeles and started planning for Simone. She also did a number of pop-ups while working on the restaurant: at Simbal in August 2016, at Plant Food + Wine in March 2017, at Winsome in July 2017, and at Esters in February 2018. Recently, in May, Largey was deemed one of Robb Report's "7 Best Young Chefs in America."

Chef de Cuisine duties at Simone are handled by Jason Beberman, a New Yorker who was last serving as Director of Culinary Operations for Alex Stupak's Empellon. Before that, he cooked at numerous NYC spots including Miller's Tavern, Dressler, Diner, Gramercy Tavern, Marlow & Sons, Veritas, and Geoffrey Zakarian's Town. Meanwhile, native Angeleno Crystal Espinoza is Simone's Sous Chef; we last saw her over at Knead & Co and Union with Bruce Kalman.




Simone is housed in a 1920s-era building next to Urth Caffé, one supposedly used as a photography studio for the past 35 years and which has been redone by local firm Deirdre Doherty Interiors. Up front is Duello, a moody 25-seater bar, and beyond that are the open kitchen and its concomitant six-seater walnut chef's counter, while the 75-seat main dining room is situated in the rear. The overall vibe is sort of opulent-industrial, hard-soft, and ostensibly takes some inspiration from the Art Deco movement. There are also two private dining rooms: one for up to a dozen guests (where we sat) and another for two dozen.


Above we see Simone's menu, which features a particular focus on vegetables. Note that, in lieu of ordering à la carte, we had the Chef build a menu for us, priced at $100 a head. Also shown is the beverage list, with its cocktails, beer, and wines by the glass. The cocktails deserve special attention, and are the work of Bar Director Iain McPherson (owner of Panda & Sons, Hoot The Redeemer, and Nauticus in Edinburgh), who was personally recruited by Russo while the director was in Scotland helping his daughter get settled in at St. Andrew's. His drinks are based on the history of the Arts District, divided into four eras: Wine Influenced, Citrus Led, Artist Inspired, and Current Times. There are 16 cocktails in total, though apparently only 12 are available in the dining room; for the remaining four you'll have to visit Duello I guess (at Duello you'll also get to see the fancier, illustrated cocktail list). Click for larger versions.


Next we have the full wine list, which is fairly extensive and features some somewhat esoteric selections, with a focus on the Old World. It's all managed by Beverage Director Jordan Egan, a Chicago native who previously worked for The NoMad in New York, Chi-town's Boka Restaurant Group, and Ria at the Waldorf Astoria Chicago. Click for larger versions.


Egan is also in charge of Simone/Duello's selection of spirits. Click for larger versions.


After being seated, we were presented with complimentary glasses of Fitz-Ritter, Sekt, Extra Trocken, Pfalz, Germany NV. The wine smelled of fresh fruit with a hint of toastiness, while taste-wise, I got more toast, acidity, light fruit, and an unexpected touch of savoriness. A fitting apéritif.


Sesame Sourdough, House Cultured Butter [$10.00]
The bread was superb. Delightfully crusty, it showcased the nuttiness of the sesame up front, while the tanginess inherent in sourdough was evident later on. The butter was also on point, and when paired with the bread, the combination recalled what I'll describe as smoky popcorn.


Sage Against the Machine [$14.00] | Rye, Kefir Soft Cider, Ginger, Sage
I appreciate a punny cocktail name, so I naturally felt inclined to begin here. The drink smelled great, displaying lots of fresh, juicy apple. Taste-wise, I got a definite bitterness at first, one that led to a mixture of sweet fruit and rye booziness, punctuated by traces of aromatic sage.


Seasonal Pickles [$8.00]
The pickle plate had six varieties on offer. My favorites were the potatoes (I don't think I'd ever had 'em pickled before), the okra (the pickling process seemed to temper its mucilaginous character), and the hot, tangy radishes.


Red Lentil Hummus, Smashed Cucumbers, Nasturtium [$8.00] + Grilled Focaccia [$8.00]
I found the hummus pleasantly nutty, with a refreshing brightness from the various veggies, though I could've used a touch more acidity to really give the dish some oomph. It was a perfect pairing with the sheer smokiness of the accompanying focaccia.


Firing Blancs [$14.00] | Gin, Sauvignon Blanc, Salted Citrus Oleo, Pineapple, Lemon, Bitters
Given the vessel it was served in, I have to assume that this next cocktail was meant to be tiki-inspired. It certainly tasted the part, giving up loads of tropical fruit flavors layered over just a smidgen of botanicals. Soft and easy.


Burrata, Plum Confit, Nigella, Purslane, Mint [$16.00]
Burrata arrived as lush and luscious as I wanted, its richness matching up well with the tartness of plum. What was key, though, was the herbaceousness of the purslane and mint here, not to mention the pinch of spice from the nigella seeds.


Rose Derby [$15.00] | Bourbon, Pink Grapefruit, Honey, Mint, Rose Wine
This was another easy-drinking cocktail, one featuring a balance between floral and honeyed flavors, all backed by the heft of bourbon and accented by refreshing notes of mint.


Grilled Brassicas Caesar, Torn Lemon Croutons [$15.00]
The Chef's take on the classic Caesar worked it out. I was a fan of the bitterness and crunch and smoke present in the salad, augmented by the salt from the cheese and contrasted by the juicy, tangy nature of the included citrus.


Water of Youth [$15.00] | Amontillado Sherry, Chamomile, Green Chili Liqueur, Orgeat, Pineapple Bitters
This was likely my favorite of the cocktails. Aromatic nose brimming with fruity notes and the nuttiness of sherry. The palate, meanwhile, was sweet and tart, with appealing notes of leather, nuts, and oak, all joined by an oxidative character.


Pole Beans, Urfa Chili Creme Fraiche, Purple Tomatillo, Almond [$15.00]
A variation on the classic dish of green beans amandine was interesting. The beans had an almost "leathery" texture that I was sort of ambivalent about--I think I would've preferred 'em firmer, crisper. Taste-wise, I definitely got a zippiness from the tomatillo broth, a nutty crunch from those almonds, and a healthy dose of umami courtesy of the included shiitakes, but the urfas didn't register particularly strongly. Overall, I just felt that there was something missing here.


Botta Secreta [$14.00] | Peach Aperitif, Rose Vermouth, Dry Vermouth, Orange & Grapefruit Oleo, Peated Whiskey, Lemon, Orange Bitters
I quite enjoyed this next cocktail as well. It had powerful aromas of smoky, vegetal peat combined with a sherry-like element. In terms of taste, I got more of that peated whiskey, balanced by a plethora of sweet, fruity flavors that actually made the drink surprisingly soft and smooth.


Brown Butter Maitake Mushroom, Turnip, Shallot-Miso [$24.00]
Meaty chunks of hen of the woods showed off plenty of savory, earthy flavors that were kicked up a notch by the included miso. Turnip served as a counterpoint, though I feel like some more herbaceousness or acidity could've been incorporated to help lift the dish.


Kimchi Gibson [$18.00] | Gin, Kimchi, Dry Vermouth
This was a fun little cocktail, ostensibly inspired by artist Po Kim. Its nose was surprisingly light on the advertised kimchi. Taste-wise, I got more of the botanical nature of the gin at first, but this quickly transitioned to a growing, kimchi-fueled spice that was pretty neat.


Ricotta Gnudi, Grated Tomato, Guanciale, Basil [$20.00]
The gnudi were uncommonly creamy and lush, and matched up swimmingly with the salty pork and tangy tomato, all while the basil served as a well-placed accent.


Pork Collar, Baby Bok Choy, Braised Fresh Peanuts, Lovage [$36.00]
Pork collar displayed a lovely smokiness, and the richness of the meat matched up beautifully with the bright, crunchy shards of bok choy present. I didn't mind the peanuts either.


Totto [$14.00] | Vodka, Hibiscus, Herbal Liqueur, Sparkling Wine
Here came another quaffable cocktail, one featuring a bevy of sweet, floral notes alongside a crucial counterbalancing bitterness. And if you're wondering about the stuff smeared on the glass, that's some "rose paint" (keep in mind this is a Georgia O'Keeffe-inspired libation).


Hoja Santa Sturgeon, Roasted Corn, Blistered Shishitos [$38.00]
Sturgeon arrived soft but meaty, its delicate-yet-savory flavors inextricably married to the tangy, spicy nuances of its yerba santa wrapper. Shishitos added an extra kick to the dish, and the sauce an additional point of interest. Quite nice.


California Calling [$14.00] | Reposado Tequila, Coconut Oil, Fino Sherry, Sugar, Lemon Juice, Bitters
This cocktail had loads of coconut on the nose, and the taste followed, giving up more coconut and citrus (tanning lotion?) on top of some sherried notes and just a trace of tequila.


Dry Aged Flannery "Jorge" Ribeye with All of the Things... [$180.00]
Tonight's pièce de résistance was this impressive-looking bone-in rib eye from celebrated NorCal purveyor Bryan Flannery. The meat came well-seared, and had that rich, concentrated, unmistakable dry-aged flavor and funk that I was looking for.


Cabot Cocktail [$15.00] | White Rum, Amaro, Falernum, Italian Aperitif, Lime Juice, Xylitol, Egg White
Eggy and citrusy on the nose, the Cabot went down smooth, but had a decidedly bittersweet edge to keep things interesting.


The steak above came with numerous accoutrements, including a super smoky 'n' spicy mole negro, beef stock-braised rutabaga, and tomatillo jam.


Lost & Found [$15.00] | Blended Rum, Bramble, Mandarin, Sweet Beetroot Vinegar, Lemon, Egg White
This red-wine-tinted cocktail smelled strongly of dark berry fruit, while its taste displayed more of the beet, along with citrus and plenty of bitter, astringent notes.


Another side dish was this grilled broccolini with celery root and macadamia nut salsa macha. I really enjoyed the bitterness and crunch of the vegetable here, and how it matched up with all the spicy, nutty, and creamy elements present.


Smoky black radish was served with garlic chive kimchi and pear.


The Naked Maja [$17.00] | Vodka, Hemp Oil, Vermouth di Torino, Manzanilla Sherry, Celery Bitters, Umami Oil
Named after Francisco Goya's painting of the same name, this cocktail had an aroma of celery mixed with something I found reminiscent of curry. Its palate was on the boozier side, with again more celery, more curry, and a very oily finish from what I'm assuming was the umami oil.


Here we had pickled radish, fermented celtuce, and passion fruit-fermented turnip in the back.


Mamacita Mole [$17.00] | Blanco Tequila, Mole Grenadine, Lime Oleo
The evening's final cocktail was a thick, viscous concoction, one with loads of sweet spice and chocolate and a pinch of lime acidity for contrast.


Here we had more of the Chef's pickled potatoes, but this time in fried form.


We moved into some wine at this point, specifically the Salomon Undhof, Ultra Brut, Rosé, Österreichischer 2012 [$60]. The sparkling rosé had a nose that was surprisingly funky, savory, and saline, with the expected berry notes taking a back seat. On the palate, it went in a similar direction, showcasing meaty, earthy, dry flavors intertwined with just enough fruit.


Here was pickled cucumber with ume. Think sour, vegetal, and slightly acerbic.


The smashed cucumbers with nasturtium pesto had a brightness and crunch that worked as an offset to the steak above. Curiously, it also had a bit of heat to it that made me think of wasabi.


Dessert comes courtesy of Pastry Chef Nina Subhas, a New Jersey native who was last at Roberta's in Brooklyn, and Eleven Madison Park before that. Click for larger versions.


Mezcal-Guava Sabayon, Almond, Jujube, Hibiscus [$12.00]
Our first dessert featured a lemony Torta de Santiago (a sort of almond cake), along with a refreshingly fruity jujube-hibiscus sorbet and a pleasantly boozy mezcal-guava sabayon. Great nuttiness from the candied pecans as well.


Chocolate Ganache, Blackberries, Oat Milk [$12.00]
The chocolate dessert delivered too, and had some lovely tart, herbaceous flavors to pair with the bittersweet ganache.



Since this was a birthday dinner, one of my dining companions prepared a lemon cake with lemon cream cheese frosting and "all of the things" on top. It was an impressive-looking creation that was rather tasty to boot.

I'm glad to have Largey back in action here in LA once again, and it was fun to see her eclectic take on Cal cuisine, which was very inspired at times. On the other hand, I felt that she was holding back in a number of the dishes we were served. They seemed a bit tentative, a bit restrained. It's still early on, and the kitchen seems like it's still finding its footing, thus there's more to come I feel. In addition, the Chef and company are planning to launch their six-seat, kitchen-facing chef's counter in the coming months. This is where the team will reportedly serve special long-form tasting menus, so I'll be on the lookout for that.

Alta Adams (Los Angeles, CA)

October 13, 2018, 8:20 pm

≫ Next: Bistro Na's (Temple City, CA)

≪ Previous: Simone (Los Angeles, CA)

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Alta West Adams Restaurant
5359 W Adams Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016
323.571.4999
www.altaadams.com
Sat 10/13/2018, 08:20p-11:10p





We have here one of the more anticipated, as well as more curious debuts of the year. The original Alta was opened by Daniel Patterson back in 2013 on San Francisco's Market Street as a sort of casual Cal-cuisine cafe. The place was generally well-received, but shuttered last year (the address is now home to Nigel Jones' Caribbean restaurant Kaya), with plans to re-open inside the nearby Yotel hotel. There was also a second location in SF's Minnesota Street Project development that debuted in 2016 but closed in May (it was transformed into Heena Patel's Indian spot Besharam). A third Alta was previously slated to take over the old Haven space in Oakland, but that ended up turning into Dyafa, a Mideast cuisine place by Reem Assil. That brings us to Alta Adams, which officially bowed on October 11th, about a week after its daytime component Adams Coffee Shop.

Unlike the previous incarnations of Alta, this South LA iteration serves up modern soul food, which comes to us courtesy of Chef Keith Corbin, a Watts native who first starting cooking with his grandmother. After a stint in prison, he wound up getting a job at Patterson and Roy Choi's new-wave fast food spot Locol in 2016, where he was able to work his way up the line. Patterson also had him assist in the opening of Locol up in Oakland, and Corbin also staged at Coi and Dyafa during that period.


Alta Adams occupies a building that once housed three separate retail businesses, and the space was redone by David Irvin's firm Folklor. The first thing you see when you walk in is the bar area and its associated booth seating.


Pass by the open kitchen and its concomitant chef's counter to get to the second dining area.


There's also a patio out back.


And here's the attached Adams Coffee Shop, a daytime-only spot serving breakfast and lunch.


Menu-wise, you get Corbin's take on Californian soul food, which ostensibly focuses on local produce and healthier cooking. To drink, Alta Group Beverage Director Aaron Paul has got a rather appealing cocktail list on offer, as well as not-your-usual beers and a nice wine list. Click for larger versions.


Pigs foot & vegetable salad [$12.00]
We commenced with fatty, flavorful slices of pied de cochon terrine, which were quite tasty on their own but also matched up well against the bright, tangy elements in the salad.


Bikini Bottom [$13.00] | mezcal, tequila, pineapple, agave, cilantro, fresno chile
Our first cocktail was lovely. I found it delightfully zippy and herbaceous up front, but with a fruitiness and booziness coming in later, the drink finishing with a touch of heat.


Deviled eggs [$6.00]
I'm quite the deviled egg fan, and Alta's were pretty much spot on, coming out lush and creamy, with just the right amount of spicing and a lingering tartness on the back end.


Fuyu America [$13.00] | capurro pisco, persimmon, cucumber, black pepper, egg white
The evening's next cocktail was this take on a pisco sour. It smelled great, giving up notes of sweet, autumnal spice. The palate was expectedly luscious due to the egg white, and showed off more warm, baking spice notes joined by a fruity, juicy, apple-like element.


Shrimp & grits [$18.00]
This Lowcountry staple was something that caught my attention right off the bat. The shrimp were quite nice, and not overcooked as I'd feared, and had a great spice going on, with good depth. The grits, meanwhile, were well-textured, though I would've like some more aggressive seasoning on 'em.


Lunchbox [$13.00] | butter-washed bourbon, peanuts, aperol, huckleberry picpoul, ruby port
This cocktail was probably my favorite of the bunch. It smelled delicious, with tons of sweet fruit all over the place. Taste-wise, think lots of juicy berries up front leading to very apparent flavors of peanut butter and chocolate. It really did recall the childhood staple of PB&J--super neat.


Black eye pea fritters, herb dipping sauce [$7.00]
Here we had my favorite dish of the evening. I loved the nutty, hearty flavors of the fritters, which also had scallion-like zestiness that really made 'em sing. They were tasty alone to be sure, but even better with a dip into that wonderfully piquant, herby sauce on the side. Way better than any hushpuppy I've had.


Fallen Fruit [$13.00] | gin, pear, honey, amaretto, star anise
I got boatloads of star anise on the nose of this cocktail. In terms of taste, you had fruity, true-to-life pear commingled with more autumnal spice, the anise coming through again on a long-lasting finish.


Green beans simmered in spicy tomato sauce [$6.00]
Green beans were too soft for my liking, and really could've been crisper, firmer. The sauce, however, worked, with its tartness and smidge of heat making sense with the haricots.


Swing Thyme [$13.00] | blended rum, pomegranate, thyme, fresno chile
This garnet-hued cocktail smelled appealing for sure, with lots of the advertised thyme and a good amount of pomegranate. Tasting it, I got a subdued floral character, joined by pome tartness and the heat of the Fresnos on the back end.


BBQ Cauliflower [$16.00]
The cauliflower wasn't nearly as good as I was hoping for, as it lacked any sort of char or smoke, which is part of what makes BBQ great. Instead, what we got was your standard cauliflower, drizzled with an overly-sweet barbeque sauce. I did appreciate the acidity from the onions, though.


Over & Done (but the heartache lives on, inside...) [$13.00] | jm rhum xo, huana, dolin blanc, grand poppy
Here we had the booziest and probably the most complex of the cocktails. It had aromas that were citrusy and bittersweet, while its palate was viscous, showcasing a chocolate-y richness tempered by more bitterness, sweet spice, and some apple-like nuances.


Rice & Beans [$6.00]
A classic marriage of rice and beans was quite good, a homey sort of dish with lots of ham-like smoke happening.


Through the Grapevine [$13.00] | vodka, concord grape, tarragon, burma tonic
Our last cocktail ended up being complimentary on account of the kitchen running out of things. It turned out to be quite good, with boatloads of grapey sweetness evened out by a marked astringency, some herbiness, and a bit of a savory quality.


Oxtails & rice [$23.00]
Last up was the oxtail, which was super fatty and almost ridiculously rich. It was actually too much, though the rice did help moderate things. I really wanted more acidity, more brightness, more lightness for any semblance of balance.

I appreciate the premise of the cooking here, this sort of Cal-soul mash-up, but there were certainly some kinks to be worked out with some of the food; cocktail were outstanding though. In addition, the kitchen ran out of many of the dishes (in fact, all the dishes eventually at the end of the night), and service was uneven. However, given that I went on the third day of service, I'm willing to cut them some slack, since I do see promise in the place. It's obvious that Alta is still finding its footing, so I may need to revisit once they get in the groove of things.

Bistro Na's (Temple City, CA)

October 16, 2018, 7:50 pm

≫ Next: Tempura Endo (Beverly Hills, CA)

≪ Previous: Alta Adams (Los Angeles, CA)

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Bistro Na's Restaurant
9055 E Las Tunas Dr, Temple City, CA 91780
626.286.1999
www.bistronas.com
Tue 10/16/2018, 07:50p-10:10p





Los Angeles' upscale Chinese cuisine scene got a shot in the arm in November 2016 with the debut of Bistro Na's, also known as Najia Xiaoguan ("Na family's little eatery"). The restaurant is the first US outpost of a very popular mini-chain based in Beijing, one serving dishes inspired by the Manchu imperial court cuisine of the Qing Dynasty. The (somewhat apocryphal) story behind this place is that a member of the Na family was the royal physician for the Qing emperor, and was able to compile a number of imperial recipes into a so-called Golden Soup Bible (ca. 1748). Said Bible eventually wound up in the hands of one of his grandsons, who went on to open the original Na Jia Xiao Guan on Xiangshan Road in Beijing's Haidian District based off the recipes contained within.

This US location is the work of owner Xianyi Kong, while the kitchen is helmed by Chef Tian Yong. Yong hails from Beijing, and boasts over two decades of experience cooking in some of the City's better hotels and restaurants, including time spent as head chef for the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing and the 2010 Asian Games in Guangzhou.


Bistro Na's is located inside Temple City's new-ish Camellia Square development, which opened in October 2016 on the site of a former empty field. It's a large space, spanning approximately 7,100 square-feet with seating for a reported 177. The decor is decidedly grandiose, with lots of wood and fancy touches, a nod to the original restaurant's aesthetic.


There are also five private dining rooms, one of which we used (at a $500 minimum charge).





Bistro Na's menu is no doubt one of the schmanciest I've seen, an inch-thick tome with colorful illustrations of pretty much every available item. The food seems to be a mix between the more uncommon royal Manchu cuisine items and your more prosaic dishes. I will say that things appear to be more toned down compared to what you can get at the restaurant's Chinese locations (no deer penis to be had here). There's also a lunch special menu with many of the same dishes, but at lower price points. Click for larger versions.


And here are Bistro Na's' many banquet menu options, if you're interested. Click for larger versions.


To drink, there's some sake, pedestrian beers, and a wine list that's not too shabby for a Chinese restaurant. Given that this was a beer-focused dinner though, we brought our own bottles at a corkage fee of $20 each. Click for larger versions.


We began with a lighter beer, a New England-style IPA in the form of the 2018 Hill Farmstead Susan. It smelled just as you'd expect: aromatic, juicy grapefruit with a touch of aromatic pine. Taste-wise, it was citrusy and tropical at first, but had a definite hop bitterness and herbaceousness bringing up the rear.


Chili Tofu Skin Salad (Regular) [$8.95] | Cilantro, Bean Curd Sheets, Dry Chili Peppers
This was as good of a doufu pi as I've ever had. Texturally I found it pleasingly soft, yet with some rubberiness, while its mild flavors were joined by the perfect amount of chili heat and cilantro zestiness. A very promising start.


Na's Sliced Pork with Sweet Chili Sauce (Regular) [$11.95] | Sliced Pork belly, Cucumber Slices, Sweet Chili Sauce
Sheets of thin-cut pork were fatty and funky, their potency well-matched by the piquancy of the chili sauce and the crunchy brightness of the accompanying pickle slices.


The oldest beer this evening was the 1999 Cantillon Grand Cru Bruocsella, an unblended lambic that was aged for three years in oak. Its nose was as mature as expected, and had some decidedly earthy, oxidative nuances along with a backbone of acidity. On the palate, I found minimal carbonation but plenty of sour, barnyard-y, somewhat balsamic-like notes along with citrus. What was interesting was that it was quite sharp tasting, yet somehow soft and velvety at the same time.


Na's Secret Tofu (Regular) [$12.95] | Egg, Soy Bean, Bok Choy Leaves
These crispy cuboids of tofu were another favorite of mine. There was a great contrast in texture going on, while taste-wise they had an "egginess" to 'em that I really appreciated, as well as some bitter notes from the layer of bok choy on one side. Tasty alone, and even better with a dab of the accompanying umami-packed sauce.



Baked Golden Dungeness Crab with Pumpkin (3.5 lbs) [$26.95/lb]
Dungeness was expertly prepared. The crab's inherent sweetness was well-conveyed, and linked up with its gritty coating, which was like a combination of pumpkin sweetness with pops of salt.


Our next beer also had a good amount of age on it, the 2005 3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze Vintage, a "reserve" gueuze that the brewery holds back for extended aging. Appealing nose of stone fruit sweetness, barnyard, and lemon. I found it quite soft and round on the palate; there was a fruity funk and sourness up front that led to musty, oak nuances with a pinch of sherry.


Salted Golden Corn Canadian Scallop (Regular) [$36.95] | Salted Egg Yolk, Corn, Canadian Scallops, Beet Leaves
Scallops were plump, supple, their natural sweetness enhanced by the incorporation of corn while the salted egg seemed to amplify their brininess on the back end. There was too much corn for the number of scallops present, however.


Crispy Shrimp (Regular) [$16.95] | South American Jumbo Shrimps, Dried Chili Peppers, Shrimp Sauce, Red Potato Slices
Of course we had to try the signature shrimp, and the dish for sure didn't let us down. The key was the sheer crispiness of the skin--it almost shattered upon mastication, tail and all--and how that played with the firm-yet-pliant nature of the meat. Meanwhile, flavors were a contrast between an omnipresent but never overwhelming sweetness and a smidge of heat.


Next to drink was the 2015 Alpine Kiwi Herman, a sour blonde ale with kiwi and strawberry aged in wine barrels. Aromas of rich tropical fruit, sourness, and funk--nice. The taste was tart and heavy on the strawberries at first, with the kiwi in the background, while the close showcased some dry, earthy elements.


Shrimp Fried Rice with Bonito [$12.95] | Rice, Shrimp, Asparagus, Mushrooms, Eggs, Scallions, Bonito
The requisite fried rice was a rather refined preparation, and had a base of umami from the mushrooms and bonito set against your more classic egg-scallion flavors. Note: the photo above depicts only a bowl of the rice, which was served from a larger platter.


Beijing Pork Bone Stew [$29.95] | Pork Bone, Napa Cabbage, Tofu
Visually, our soup course had a turbidity that recalled seolleongtang. It didn't really taste like it though. Rather, the stew had a rich, heady, unmistakable porkiness to it evened out by the presence of cabbage and tofu.


Here was the 2018 de Garde The Peach, a spontaneously-fermented wild ale aged in oak cognac barrels with peaches added. Big aromas of stone fruit and earth along with strong barrel. In terms of taste, I found it super acidic initially, with the peaches coming in on the mid-palate before the oaky funk of the cognac casks made itself known on the close.


Stir Fried Pea Sprouts with Mushrooms (Regular) [$11.95] | Garlic, White Beech Mushrooms, Pea Sprouts
Dou miao were bright and garlicky, just like I wanted, while the incorporation of bunapi shimejis was a welcomed addition. Note: a couple of my dining companions got into this before I could photograph, so a good third of the dish is missing.


Na's Braised Pork Belly (Small) [$16.95] | Pork Belly, Bamboo Shoots, Black Mushrooms
The hong shao rou was almost like pig candy. The meat was gelatinous to the bite, and had a marked sweetness to it that was balanced out just enough by the spicy and savory components in the dish.


Speaking of candy, our next drink was the 2016 Voodoo ManBearPig, which was definitely on the dessert-y side. This was an imperial stout with apple- and hickory-smoked Munich malt aged in bourbon barrels that had previously held honey and maple syrup. It smelled great, with sweet chocolate and maple all over the place, tinged with barrel. On the palate, I found the beer super smooth and silky, with almost no booziness; instead, there was loads of honey and somewhat less maple alongside sugary chocolate and a touch of oak.


Na's Prime Angus Rib [$46.95] | Angus Beef Ribs, Lotus Leaves, Black Pepper Sauce, Thai Sweet Chili Sauce
These were beef ribs, wrapped in lotus leaves, then brined and roasted. The end result was an utterly tender, almost melt-in-your-mouth cut of meat, one that matched up beautifully with that delightful black pepper sauce on the side.


Crispy Shrimp (Medium) [$24.95] | South American Jumbo Shrimps, Dried Chili Peppers, Shrimp Sauce, Red Potato Slices
Na's cuipi xia was so good that we actually had to get another order, a larger serving at that.


A blended Belgian-style ale aged in wine barrels with white peaches and apricots, the 2013 Alpine Chez Monus is oft considered the prime example of an American stone fruit sour, and it lived up to the hype. It smelled amazing, giving up super intense aromas of sugary, candied fruit that recalled peach rings, Jolly Ranchers, or canned peaches (rumor is that they actually used canned fruit!). Tasting the beer, I got a perfect marriage of stone fruit, sourness, acid, and yeasty funk leading to a long-lasting finish rife with more peach. This one's showing very well, even after five years.


Scallion Pancakes [$6.95] | Flour, Scallions
Cong you bing were fine, though I would've liked 'em crispier, with more scallion.


Na's Crispy Lamb Brisket (Regular) [$14.95] | Lamb, Fry Batter
Shards of lamb were super crispy, and had a somewhat "doughnut-y" sweetness from the batter that actually linked up well with the dry spices on the side.


Our final beer was the 2017 de Garde Baies & Arbres, which was created in collaboration with Missouri's vaunted Side Project Brewing. It's a spontaneously-fermented golden wild ale, hopped with four-year-old warm-aged whole leaf hops and a small amount of pellet hops, then aged in oak red wine barrels and blended. Following, the beer was refermented in secondary oak with fresh black and red raspberries for two months, blended with a bit of 1/2/3-year-old beer, then conditioned on foraged spruce tips. The nose here was almost straight jam, with just the slightest bit of spruce and wood. The palate was soft and smooth, and brought massive amounts of berry fruit and red wine along with just enough sourness and a finish highlighting the herbal, refreshing nature of the spruce. One of my dining companions even described it as "mead-y."


Na's Assorted Eight [$36.95] | Includes: Red Date Crisp, Yin Yang Sesame Roll, Red Bean Cake, Sweet Rice Roll, Crispy Rice Treats, Cranberry Walnut Sweet Rice Ball, Red Bean Roll, Na's White Crisp (4 each)
We made sure to try an assortment of the restaurant's desserts (clockwise from upper-left):

• Red Date Crisp - This was my favorite of the bunch, thanks to its rich jujube notes and firm, slightly crunchy texture.
• Sweet Rice Roll - Soft and gummy to the bite, with classic red bean flavors.
• Crispy Rice Treats - Dense and crunchy, these had a ricey sweetness along with a touch of tartness from the cranberry.
• Na's White Crisp - These cookie-like creations actually didn't taste like much, and only had a bit of sweetness from the hong dou.
• Red Bean Roll - Cylinders of red bean were soft and gelatinous--pretty nice.
• Cranberry Walnut Sweet Rice Ball - I found these nutty and grainy from the walnut, while the red bean offered up a bit of contrast.
• Red Bean Cake - Delightfully flaky, with again more of that classic red bean sweetness on display.
• Yin Yang Sesame Roll - These soft 'n' sticky morsels made for my second favorite dessert thanks to their tangyuan-like nutty sweetness.

To end: a complimentary platter of watermelon and what I believe was hami gua (which was ridiculously sweet, almost honeyed).

We actually tried to do a beer dinner at Bistro Na's last December, but a too-small-for-our-party table here made us go to Chuan's across the street instead. I'm really glad we made it back after 10 months though, since this meal was very good, and no doubt one of the most memorable Chinese experiences I've had in the Southland. You get to sample a good number of dishes here that you just don't find all that often, and there's a subtlety and refinement in the cuisine that's hard to describe. The service and ambiance are top-notch for a Chinese place, too, so this really should be an "essential" spot for the SGV.

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Tempura Endo (Beverly Hills, CA)

October 17, 2018, 7:40 pm

≫ Next: Imperial Western Beer Company (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Bistro Na's (Temple City, CA)

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Tempura Endo Restaurant
9777 S Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.274.2201
www.beverlyhills-endo.com
Wed 10/17/2018, 07:40p-10:15p





I've often bemoaned the lack of specialist tempura restaurants in the Los Angeles area, so I was delighted to hear about Tempura Endo. The Kyoto-style spot opened in January 2016, and comes to us courtesy of Chef/Owner Koichi Endo. It's actually part of a family of restaurants dating back to 1885, which is when tea house Ochaya Omie opened in Kyoto's Gion district. In 1991, Tempura Yasaka Endo debuted, which was followed up in subsequent years by further additions to the group.

Running the day-to-day here is Head Chef Satoshi Masuda. Born in 1970 in Kyoto Prefecture, he began cooking at age 20, and claims 28 years experience, including 13 years at the original Tempura Endo. He headed up the kitchen there before moving to the US in December 2015, settling in the South Bay.


Endo takes over an address that was previously home to Nobu Shishido's Sushi Dokoro Ki Ra La (2006-2015) and Tomi Harase's Café Blanc (1993-2003). Designed by Kouji Sugimoto, the space is swathed in Kitayama cedar and gives you the sort of calm, serene vibe expected for a restaurant like this. You'll probably want to dine at the eight-seater tempura bar, but there's also a room off to the side that accommodates another eight guests.


Menu-wise, you can choose from three prix fixe options: the Yasaka at $150, the Kiyomizu at $200, and the Higashiyama at $280 (which is what we went for). Note that à la carte ordering is also permitted, though there's a $150pp minimum before 9:00pm (and $50pp after). Click for larger versions.



To drink, Endo offers up a small selection of sakes and wines, as well as a couple beers and shochu; pricing is on the expensive side. We ended up bringing our own bottles, paying a corkage fee of $50 a pop. Click for larger versions.


Above we see the place setting. Note the bib in the corner, which hid the dipping salts (regular and green tea).


We commenced with a bottle of the 2008 Pol Roger Champagne Blanc de Blancs. The wine smelled quite nice, with a marked fruitiness recalling apple juice and a hint of booziness and yeast. This nose, however, belied the palate, which was definitely on the toasty side, and rather sharp and dry to boot.


1: Warm Vegetables
For our sakizuke course, an array of vegetables was accompanied by a dollop of yuzu-miso sauce. The veggies didn't taste like much on their own, so that super viscous, savory-sweet condiment was a must.


We were then provided some daikon oroshi to place in our tentsuyu sauce.


2: Endo Special Salad
The salad was actually a pleasant surprise, thanks to its mish-mash of crunchy, bright, tangy, and nutty elements, all tied together by some delightful herbal and floral notes from the plum dressing.


3a: Corn Tempura
Our first piece of tempura was Endo's signature corn variety (which I initially mistook for fish). Here, I appreciated the distinct nature of the individual kernels, and how their inherent sweetness played against the savoriness and crunch of the batter.


3b: Shrimp Toast Tempura
A tempura of shrimp toast was something I'd never seen before, but it was pretty magnificent. I loved how well the sweetness and brine of the ebi was conveyed, and how that went back-and-forth with the saltiness and crunch of the bread.


At this point, we were provided accompaniments for our upcoming sashimi course.


4: Sashimi Moriawase
Our sashimi plate comprised three selections:

• Hamachi - Fatty for sure, this one definitely opened up with a brush of soy and wasabi.
• Kuromaguro Toro - Bluefin toro had a melt-in-your-mouth richness that stood up to the smokiness of the paired seaweed.
• Tai - Clean cuts of snapper were matched with a citrusy roasted sake sauce (reffered to as an irizake I believe).

5a: Live Scampi Tempura
Our second stage of tempura began with a superb kuruma ebi. The shrimp had an almost creamy consistency that worked great as a contrast against the fine-spun crispness of the batter, while the salty fried head just might've been the best I've ever had.


5b: King Crab Tempura
The tarabagani was another standout, coming out super sweet and perfectly fried. Even better with a pinch of salt.


5c: Sea Urchin Tempura
Uni came wrapped in a layer of seaweed, and had a truffle-like funk at first leading to the umami flavors of the nori while the sweet, creamy nature of the roe made itself known on the finish. Delish.


Next to drink was the 2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas-François Billecart, which was very different than the preceding wine. Its nose was definitely more floral, and had hints of lemon and pome fruit. Meanwhile, the palate was softer, more feminine, more fruit forward, with a hint of toast on the end and an almost beer-like finish.


6: Wagyu Carpaccio
The Miyazaki wagyu was expectedly rich, its healthy amount of fat moderated by the considerable smokiness in the dish, while there was also a touch of truffle here that I didn't mind either.


5d: Matsutake Mushroom Tempura
We were in the midst of matsutake season, so I was definitely looking forward to this. Coming from Oregon, the mushrooms were lightly-battered, and showcased a refined earthiness that linked up swimmingly with a squirt of sudachi and a dab of salt.


5e: Golden Eye Snapper with Shiso Tempura
A savory, satisfying cut of kinmedai made total sense with its counterpoint of minty shiso. Nice!


5f: Abalone Tempura
The awabi was perfect texturally, with its firm, yet somehow supple consistency working hand-in-hand with the tempura batter. Taste-wise, I got boatloads of oceany-umami flavors that really popped with a sprinkle of green tea salt.


5g: Lobster Tempura
The isebi was another favorite of ours. The lobster tail was delicately fried, and had a sweetness that just worked beautifully with the batter. It was marvelous with just a squirt of lemon, and so the buttered soy sauce on the side wasn't even truly necessary.


7a: Broccoli Soup
A special broccoli soup was cool and creamy, the bright flavors of the vegetable really working as a sort of palate cleanser. Nice tartness from the goji berries here, too.


5h: Scallop with Caviar Tempura
Here was a decidedly non-traditional presentation of tempura: a firm, plump, super sweet hotategai, stuffed with Ossetra. The key here was really the caviar, which provided a salinity that almost seemed to emphasize the sweetness of the scallop. A touch of lemon did wonders in opening up the flavors as well.


7b: Sesame Tofu
Agedashi gomadofu was utterly creamy, its lusciousness working great against the crispness of its fried skin, while its relatively mild flavors were perked up by the savory, tangy ponzu and scallion.


8a: Ten-Cha
We ended up trying all three of Endo's closing courses. The chazuke was a cozy preparation, setting the bitterness of the sencha against a savory shrimp tempura. However, I would've liked some citrus or wasabi or something to lift the dish a bit.


Accompanying the ten-cha were some crunchy pickles, which did provide a welcomed hit of acidity.


Our final beverage was the 1995 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut La Grande Dame. This one certainly smelled more mature, and had a nutty quality on the nose along with notes of honey, biscuit, and minerals. Taste-wise, I found it tart and acidic and crisp, but also sherry-like, with some oxidation. The wine has aged pretty well, and still has some years left on it I'd say.


8b: Ten-Soba
The combination of tempura and soba was super comforting, and I especially appreciated the contrast in texture between the two elements.


Some green tea to finish the meal with.



8c: Ten-Don
More tempura arrived, this time with a fried egg and $50 worth of French white truffle. It was as gratifying as expected, and the interplay between the sweet-briny shrimp, runny egg, and musky truffle certainly worked for me.


Next came a selection of desserts.



9a: Flambéed Candied Sweet Potato
The satsumaimo was a delight. Arriving with a pleasantly crisp exterior, its sweetness matched up perfectly with the smoky, boozy qualities of its Hennessy flambé.



9b: Yuzu Sherbet & Green Tea Mochi
Here we see a super refreshing yuzu sorbet, and the softest green tea mochi I've ever encountered.


9c: Matcha
We ended with a thick, frothy presentation of matcha, which was probably the most bitter and astringent I've had. Do note that there was no accompanying tea ceremony, as unfortunately the restaurant appears to have done away with that nicety.

My dining companions commented that this was the best tempura they'd ever had, and I'd probably agree with them. There was certainly this level of precision and finesse in the frying that, while it may be common in Japan, is rarely found Stateside. I'm glad to finally have a dedicated tempura-ya that we can call our own, though admittedly it comes at a steep cost. Actually, I'd be curious about going back to Endo and ordering à la carte, so I can sample all the various items of tempura (and there are many) that I didn't get to try this go around.

Imperial Western Beer Company (Los Angeles, CA)

October 23, 2018, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: Atrium (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Tempura Endo (Beverly Hills, CA)

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Imperial Western Beer Company at Union Station
800 N Alameda St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.270.0035
www.imperialwestern.com
Tue 10/23/2018, 07:45p-09:10p





The year's most anticipated beer-related debut just might be that of Imperial Western, which opened on October 4th. Ostensibly named after a Southern Pacific train from the 1930s, the brewery-slash-restaurant is situated in LA's historic Union Station and was actually announced all the way back in 2014. It's the work of Cedd Moses (213 Hospitality), Eric Needleman (The Spirited Group), and Brian Lenzo (Blue Palms Brewhouse), the same team behind Arts District Brewing.



Imperial Western takes over the Fred Harvey Room, which was the site of the old Harvey House. That restaurant--part of a chain--opened in 1939 and closed in 1967, and the space has only sporadically been used since then. The Art Deco-meets-Native American room was originally penned by Mary Colter, and was refreshed by New York's AvroKO. Fortunately, much of the original detailing has been left intact, while games such as shuffleboard and pool have been added. There's a patio space as well, with its own adjacent bar to boot.


To drink, you get a fairly wide selection of house beers courtesy of head brewer Devon Randall (also in charge of ADB), while cocktails are available at the attached Streamliner bar, which is run by the team behind The Varnish. Food-wise, you'll find classically-leaning seafood selections from Chef David Lentz of The Hungry Cat. Click for larger versions.


Our first beer was the Calliope [$8], a New England-style hazy IPA. It had an appealing nose that was more classically hoppy than juicy. On the palate, I got some sweet, creamy notes up front, leading to more hop bitterness and a decidedly dank character on the back end. Not bad.


Cauliflower [$7.00] | gremolata, parmesan breadcrumbs
As you all know, I'm quite the cauliflower fiend, but tonight's version was a letdown. It was nice texturally, but definitely on the bland side. I really didn't get much from the advertised gremolata, though there was a marked saltiness from the cheese.


My favorite beer of the evening was the Bells & Whistles [$9], an American sour ale with peaches that was brewed in collaboration with Placentia's Bruery Terreux. It smelled great, with loads of rich peach intertwined with barnyard, while the taste showed off sweet spice and stone fruit along with plenty of sourness and funk.


French Fries [$5.00]
Fries were just crispy enough, with a healthy dosing of salt and herb. Tasty.


Next to drink was a Kristallweizen (i.e. a filtered Hefeweizen), the Harvey [$6.50]. It didn't smell like much, with just a smidge of sweetness and metallic character. The taste was pretty straightforward and was all about that malty sweetness.


Crispy Fried Chicken [$12.00] | chipotle, buttermilk, chili vinegar
The chicken tasted better than it looked for sure, and was a standout tonight. The chili vinegar gave the bird a rich, almost Asian-y type of spicing, while texturally, I found a good balance between tenderness and crunch.


A gose, the Travel Bug [$6.50] had aromas that were bright, citrusy, and tart, with some graininess to boot. In terms of taste, it actually wasn't all that sour and had a subtle salinity and spice--a touch too restrained for me, actually.


Ceviche of the Day [$12.00]
Today's ceviche featured mahi-mahi, and was a fairly prototypical version of the dish. Unfortunately it was a touch warmer than I'd prefer, and I wanted more acidity, more citrus, less avocado.


Our first dark beer, the Fordie [$7] was a mild ale made with Stumptown coffee, served on nitro. Soft, sweet bouquet rife with nutty, aromatic coffee--very nice. The palate, meanwhile, was thin, light, and had plenty more floral coffee notes commingled with nutty roast.


Chorizo & Mussels [$16.00] | spanish chorizo, romesco, sofrito, grilled bread
A classic combo of chorizo and mussels worked it out. The mussels were well-cooked, plump, and briny, and just made sense against the spice and savor of chorizo and romesco, all while the sofrito added an extra dimension. Nice smoke on the bread, too.


Here was a Brett saison, the Flores Solis [$8], brewed in collaboration with Arts District Brewing. The beer smelled lovely with its fruity, sweet 'n' tart nuances. Taste-wise, I got funk, bitterness, and herbs, with a lingering metallic note on the finish.


Peruvian Scallop Aguachile [$10.00]
An aguachile of scallop ate fresh and clean, and showcased bright cucumber notes up front leading to a sharp, long-lasting heat.


The Pullman [$7] was a sweet stout brewed with lactose. The beer had a surprisingly subdued nose, with just light coffee and roast. In terms of taste, I found more roast, more bitterness, along with some chocolate and a funky, almost blue-cheese like quality.


Imperial Western Burger [$16.00] | caramelized onions, bacon, gruyere, spicy dijon
The signature burger was borderline trashy, but also damn delicious. The beef came out beautifully charred, with lots of juiciness and salt that meshed with the cheese in utterly gratifying fashion, all while the mustard imparted a touch of offsetting piquancy.


Our final beer was another ADBC collab, the Flores Minimae [$7], a petite farmhouse ale. It smelled quite nice, with some sweet, apple-y notes joined by a moderate tartness. The palate was funky and dry, and had an almost apple cider-like quality that I certainly didn't mind.

The general consensus among us was that the beer was actually a bit better and more interesting than we expected, which I'm glad to report, especially this early on. As for the food, it's nothing to write home about, but fits the bill and mostly gets the job done. Meanwhile, word is that Randall is planning on implementing a sour program at this site, so we might be interested in coming back just for that. Overall we were pretty satisfied with how this turned out.

Atrium (Los Angeles, CA)

November 6, 2018, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: Manpuku (Torrance, CA)

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Atrium Restaurant
1816 N Vermont Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90027
323.607.6944
www.atriumlosfeliz.com
Tue 11/06/2018, 07:45p-09:55p





I guess I'm not terribly interested in the Los Feliz dining scene, as I haven't reported on anything in the area since MessHall in 2012(!). What brought me back was a friend's request to try out Atrium, which had just grand-opened on October 25th. The place is the work of Beau Laughlin and Jay Milliken, the guys behind Silver Lake's Kettle Black and Sawyer, among others. This time, they've partnered with Executive Chef Robert Hunter Pritchett, who aims to serve up his own brand of eclectic, LA-inspired contemporary American cuisine.

About the Chef: Pritchett was born in Miami, and spent his younger years in various locales--including Malaysia, the Philippines, and Las Vegas--before settling in Burlington, VT around age 16. He got his first restaurant job a couple years earlier, working the fry station at a Long John Silver's, and continued in this direction in Vermont, where he found employment frying seafood at a sandwich shop. The Chef later headed kitchens at an Italian spot and a bistro in his hometown, and also attended Champlain College from 2003 to 2005. To expand his culinary horizons, he moved to Las Vegas in 2006, where he worked at André Rochat's eponymous old-school French restaurant in Downtown for a year, where he endured regular abuse from the CdC. Pritchett later cooked at Rochat's Alizé at the Palms, but decided to leave for Denver in 2008.

He didn't have a job offer in hand when he arrived, and thus spent time staging at Black Pearl, Duo, and Z Cuisine. He then tried to get a job at Frank Bonanno's Osteria Marco, but wound up at Bonanno's Luca d'Italia instead. Pritchett started at the contemporary Italian spot in June 2009 as a line cook, working the fish and meat stations before finally becoming Exec Chef. While there, he participated in Denver's Cochon 555 in 2011, as well as Aspen's Grand Cochon in 2012. More importantly, he also met his wife Katie O'Byrne (herself a FOH professional who's worked at the likes of Providence, Gwen, Faith & Flower, and Otium) during this period (they married in 2015), and the two would eventually pack up and leave for LA in January 2013.

Pritchett started working as sous at Son of a Gun that February. It was here where he first met his future business partner Adam Midkiff, who would later go on to cook at Red Medicine, The Corner Door, and Sambar. Pritchett left SoaG in April 2013 to become Chef de Cuisine at Brendan Collins'Waterloo & City, where he stayed for five months. In October 2013, he took on the exec sous chef role at Fifty Seven (another Beau Laughlin project), but left the following March, before the restaurant actually opened. He then started consulting, and one of his first clients was the short-lived Downtown bistro Coco Laurent, and its even shorter-lived follow-up, the nebulously-named Project X. He also became a corporate R&D chef for Mendocino Farms around this time, and ran the company's higher-end Blue Cow Kitchen in DTLA as well; this gig lasted until the end of 2015.

In November 2015, Pritchett began consulting for the Chicago-based Protein Bar & Kitchen, while February 2016 saw him consulting at Pizza Studio, a local fast-casual custom pizza chain. That May, he worked with Playa Vista's breakfast-focused The Chicken or the Egg, but also began preparations for the launch of GoldenBoys, a "guerilla Chinese" pop-up concept that he created with Midkiff. The duo would appear at multiple locations through the year: Spread (May, June), Sambar (June), Unit 120 (July), RiNo Yacht Club at The Source in Denver (July, December), Daw Yee Myanmar Corner (September), Secret Chinese Delivery (September, December), Plan Check (November), and Birch (March 2017). From there, Pritchett joined the team at Virgil Village newcomer Melody, a "lazy French" spot that debuted in November 2017. He was out by May 2018 though, replaced by Justin Abram (who was last at the now-shuttered Girasol).



Apparently penned by Laughlin himself, (the bulk of) Atrium occupies an exposed brick-swathed, bow-truss-ceiling'd space in the same structure as the Skylight Theater. Curiously, the restaurant also spills out into the walkway connecting the street to the main dining space, which creates a cozy sort of patio area.


Food-wise, Pritchett's got a menu that takes inspiration from a variety of culinary traditions--it's all very "LA." To drink, there's the requisite wine, some beer on tap, and a diverse array of cocktails from Beverage Director Jordan Young (Harbor House, Kettle Black, Sawyer, 71Above, Cliff's Edge, Osso, East Borough). Click for larger versions.


Rum Diaries [$14.00] | plantation pineapple, smith and cross, pedro ximenez, oolong tea, clarified milk, lemon oleo
We ended up trying all the cocktails, and first was Atrium's take on the now-popular clarified milk punch. It smelled great, with aromas that went toward a floral and citrusy direction. The palate, meanwhile, was soft and silky, and displayed a sweet 'n' spicy flavor profile backed by the weight of the rums.


Beef Carpaccio Carne Asada [$16.00] | salsa macha, avocado crema, crispy potatoes
Our first plate was this thoroughly rejiggered version of carne asada fries. I got a lot of onion and garlicky flavors up front, punctuated by tart, herbaceous notes, but with the heft of the beef shining through. Nice crunch from the potatoes (which reminded us of Pik-Niks), too.


Grilled Focaccia [$7.00] | kimchi butter, buckwheat honey
The key to the focaccia was its crust, which was super crisp, and teeming with honeyed, nutty flavors. The butter, meanwhile, was on the light, aerated side, with relatively restrained kimchi spice and funk.


Ace High [$14.00] | pear brandy, bourbon, guava cinnamon cordial, banane du bresil, disaronno, lemon
Our next cocktail was on the tall, tiki-ish side. Think loads of sweet fruit, mixed with a touch of cinnamon spice and citrus, then backed up by a firm booziness from the bourbon-brandy combo.


Hawaiian Hamachi Crudo [$16.00] | passion fruit nuoc cham, chiles, onion, viet herbs
The crudo just might've been my favorite item of the night. The yellowtail itself arrived fatty and briny, and was taken up a notch by the funk of the included nuoc cham. At the same time, the marriage of chili-onion-cilantro provided just the right amount of heat and brightness to make for a balanced dish.


Octopus Al Pastor Tostada [$16.00] | salsa taquero, charred pineapple, shredded cabbage
This was another standout for me. Texturally, the octo struck the right balance between suppleness and substantialness, while its flavors were savory and spicy, with a lingering salinity to boot. The various accompaniments all made for a very well-integrated dish, and of course I appreciated the sheer crunchiness of the tostada, too.


Shift Drink [$14.00] | szechuan infused tequila, pineapple cordial, amontillado, ginger, lime
The nose on this cocktail was heavy on the pineapple, but also conveyed tempering notes of smoke and what was almost like butter. The palate, meanwhile, was surprisingly spicy and sharp, but had a sweetness to it that provided a modicum of moderation.



Grilled Cauliflower Shawarma [$24.00] | pistachio zhoug, armenian salad, pickled dates, lavash
We were all very curious about this dish, so we just had to try it. The cauliflower itself was beautifully-textured, though I would've preferred more aggressive seasoning on it. However, the key was really to wrap it up with that bright, minty salad, and some of that spicy, super zesty zhug. Taken all together, the experience was actually quite gratifying.


Always On Time [$14.00] | mezcal, wray and nephew, frangelico, blue curacao, passion fruit honey, lime
Our next cocktail was rather strikingly green-hued. Taste-wise, I found it expectedly tropical and fruity, but it also showed off a tempering bitterness and smoke that I liked, while the finish was all about that honey.


Crispy Oyster Mushrooms [$14.00] | eel sauce glaze, smashed cucumbers, sesame, cilantro
Oyster mushrooms were as crispy as advertised, actually too much so for my liking, as I wanted a meatier, more substantial consistency on 'em. Taste-wise, the dish had this sweet 'n' spicy, nutty, familiar sort of Asian-y flavor profile, one that some of my dining companions actually found reminiscent of General Tso's chicken. I did appreciate the counterpoint offered up by the cucumbers, chilies, and herbs here.


Pachamama Pork Chop Katsu [$34.00] | burnt apple bulldog sauce, cabbage slaw, dijonnaise, brioche
Our pièce de résistance was supposed to be this reworked version of tonkatsu. The pork was as succulent and tender as I wanted, with a proper crunch from its panko breading. The Bulldog sauce was there to give the dish some extra oomph and complexity, while the slaw imparted a lightness and brightness, and the katsuobushi an extra hit of umami. Overall it was pretty tasty, though we felt that it didn't come together quite as well as we were hoping for.


Main Squeeze or Mistress [$14.00] | vodka, yuzuri, falernum, lychee cordial, plum tea cordial, lemon
The meal's penultimate cocktail had a surprisingly strong bouquet filled with sweet licorice-like notes. The palate displayed boatloads of fruity lychee up front, leading to bitter and floral nuances on the back end.


We made sure to save room for dessert, especially since they come courtesy of Executive Pastry Chef Gregory Baumgartner (71Above, Spring, E.P. & L.P., Bourbon Steak). Click for a larger version.


White Sesame [$14.00] | tahini sorbet, peanut brittle, candied pistachio, yogurt foam, lemon, brioche
Our first dessert was a pretty great pairing of savory and sweet flavors, all punctuated by the proper amount of nuttiness and crunch. My favorite part? The sorbet, which had an almost tangyuan-like sweetness to it.


LA Nights [$14.00] | singani, bruto americano, watermelon cinnamon cordial, galliano, citrus
The final cocktail we tried was this easy-drinking number, with its balance of fruity, bitter, boozy flavors finishing strong with a decidedly floral element. One of my dining companions was even reminded of watermelon Jolly Ranchers.


Milk Chocolate [$14.00] | honey tangerine sorbet, brown butter caramel, candied kumquats, mint moss, meringue
This was fun. We had super rich chocolate paired with a runny, sugary caramel--it sort of reminded me of a candy bar. The citrus provided a much needed counterpoint to it all, and I liked the texture contrast and lightness from the meringues, too.


Lemongrass Custard [$14.00] | lime leaf sorbet, passion fruit gelee, candied cashews
Our third dessert was another winner. The back-and-forth between the sweet-tart passion fruit and the citrusy, herbaceous nature of the custard was spot on, and I was a big fan of the nuttiness and crunch from those cashews as well.

Despite some minor concerns about a couple of the plates, I think we were all pretty satisfied with Atrium. The menu's a bit all over the place, but that's sort of the point of it. You'll find fun and whimsy to the food, but at the same time, there's a purpose to it all. The cocktails, meanwhile, were worthwhile too, and we didn't have complaints about the service, either. All in all, a quality addition to the area.

Manpuku (Torrance, CA)

November 10, 2018, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Hock + Hoof (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Atrium (Los Angeles, CA)

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Manpuku Tokyo BBQ Dining
1870 W Carson St, Torrance, CA 90501
424.271.7830
www.manpukuus.com / www.manpuku.co/en/shoplist/torrance/
Sat 11/10/2018, 08:00p-10:35p





My latest yakiniku experience brought me to Torrance's Manpuku, which opened back in December 2014. Part of the Take Five Co group, the place was apparently founded over 60 years ago in Japan. It's part of a mini-chain of restaurants, one that has locations in Tokyo, here in the Southland (Sawtelle, Costa Mesa, Beverly Grove), and Myanmar, curiously. Izakaya Hachi is also part of the same family.



Manpuku resides in the former home of mediocre Italian joint Cafe Luna, and the space has been totally redone to a fairly contemporary aesthetic. Total capacity is around 64.


The menu presents a wide array of yakiniku meats along with the usual Korean-inspired appetizers and sides. Click for larger versions.


To drink, you get some sake, beer (I'm glad to see at least a couple local brews), shochu, and a smattering of wine. Corkage is a reasonable $20 per bottle. Click for larger versions.


Prime Rib Eye "Yukke" Tartar [$10.50]
Manpuku's version of yukhoe delivered thanks to its balance of soy-fueled umami and onion-y zing, all while the julienned apples imparted a juiciness and crunch to the mix.



Premium Tongue "Tongue Shio" [$14.00]
Our first BBQ item was Manpuku's signature negi- and salt-treated tan, a dish that was apparently created back in the day as a way to make subpar tongue more palatable. It was a great start, the meat cooking up nice and succulent, with a firm-yet-pliant chew and plenty of zesty onion for contrast.



Kobe Toro Tongue [$19.50]
For comparison purposes, we also sampled the American wagyu tongue back-to-back. I found it fattier, softer, and juicier, and the straightforward salt-n-pepper notes here really sang.



Heart [$7.50]
A somewhat chewy cut, beef hatsu developed a welcomed char and sear, and showed off some decidedly earthy, mineral-driven flavors.


To drink, I brought along a bottle of the 2015 Williams Selyem Zinfandel Bacigalupi Vineyard, from California's Russian River Valley. The wine smelled of fragrant flowers and dark berry, with an underpinning of heat and a "meatiness" peeking through. Taste-wise, I got berries and plum initially, leading to notes of chocolate and tobacco spice later on. A potent wine that certainly stood up to all the meat we were having.



Prime Ribeye "Rosu" [$13.50]
Our first of two rib eye presentations ate juicy and tender, and definitely had a sweetness to it.



Kobe Rib Eye [$32.50]
The American wagyu version conveyed deeper, beefier, fattier flavors, and was more on the savory side.




Selected Special Wagyu Chuck Flap [$15.00]
The chuck flap was the only item that was cooked for us by our server, I'm guessing because it requires a bit more finesse. Interestingly, after being seared, the meat was mixed with egg yolk, then wrapped around a rice ball. The end result was quite tasty, with a mixture of sweet, beefy, fatty flavors evened out by the rice.



Prime Short Rib "Kalbi Shio" [$14.50]
Short rib arrived properly tender, and went great with the back-and-forth between onion and salt.



Kobe Short Rib [$24.50]
The American wagyu version of karubi, meanwhile, was even more supple, but had a substantially sweeter flavor profile.



Pork Cheek - Yuzu [$9.50]
Our sole pork item tonight was the tontoro, which had a delightfully gratifying chew to it. In terms of taste, I got lots of citrus and a touch of spice that worked well as a foil to the sheer porkiness of the cut.



Garlic Asparagus [$5.50]
Crunchy stalks of asparagus worked almost as a palate cleanser due to the bittersweet flavors at play. I have to say that I didn't get much of the advertised garlic, though.


Assorted Mushroom [$7.00]
Last up was a mushroom medley, which cooked up sweet 'n' woodsy.


There aren't too many options for dessert, unsurprisingly. Click for a larger version.


Pumpkin Zenzai [$5.00] | Zenzai is a traditional Japanese dessert. Vanilla ice cream with special sauce based on pumpkin, Japanese red bean, and mochi balls.
Dessert worked it out. I really appreciated the sort of restrained sweetness of the pumpkin here, and how that was augmented by the overt sugariness of azuki. Nice textural contrast from the mochi, too.

I'd been meaning to report on Manpuku for a couple years now, so I'm glad I was able to finally do so. I don't really have too much to complain about here, though I do wish the place offered real Japanese wagyu beef instead of just the American stuff. Overall, this is another solid yakiniku option for the South Bay.

Hock + Hoof (Los Angeles, CA)

November 14, 2018, 7:55 pm

≫ Next: Sushi Ginza Onodera (West Hollywood, CA)

≪ Previous: Manpuku (Torrance, CA)

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Hock and Hoof Restaurant
517 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.279.9983
www.hockandhoof.com
Wed 11/14/2018, 07:55p-10:10p





I recently paid a visit to Hock+Hoof, which I'd been mildly curious about for the better part of this year. The place is the work of Chefs/Owners Miao "Kat" Hu and Justin Yi, and grand-opened on May 7th. The partners both have a classical background, and aim to meld that with the many culinary traditions found in LA, with a particular focus on meaty, Asian-inspired creations.

About the Chefs: Hu grew up in Nanjing, China, where she first began cooking alongside her grandmothers. She eventually immigrated to the US and settled in the San Gabriel Valley, where she attended Arcadia High School and later the CSCA/Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena. After graduation, Hu managed to land a job at the Ritz-Carlton/JW Marriott at L.A. Live, where she cooked at Kerry Simon's LA Market from 2011 to the end of 2013. In January 2014, she relocated the Bay Area to become sous chef at Chris Yeo's Straits, a Singaporean-ish eatery in San Jose's Santana Row district, but would spend fewer than nine months there. She moved back to SoCal at the end of September that year and secured a sous position at the Arts District's seminal French bistro Church & State. However, Hu transitioned over to Café Pinot the following February. Then, in September 2015, she went back up north to serve as Chef de Cuisine at Roots & Rye (replacing Jason Hahn), another Chris Yeo project at Santana Row focusing on American cuisine and whiskey; that gig lasted until October 2016.

Yi, meanwhile, grew up in Las Vegas, where he was exposed to Korean cooking at home and Mexican cooking at his parents' swap meet food court. He graduated from Green Valley High School in 2010, and from there, went on to the Culinary Institute of America, where he attained an AA degree in 2012. While at the CIA, he interned at Bouchon at The Venetian back in his hometown. In March 2013, Yi began working at David Chang's Má Pêche as a line cook, but only stayed for about four months. In the early part of 2014, he started private cheffing, then made his way to LA and became sous for Patina Restaurant Group's operations at LACMA. At PRG, he was responsible for working the Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival, which took place at the end of August 2015, and it was here where he would meet his future business partner. Yi left PRG soon after, and spent that September consulting at Propiedad Pública, an Italian restaurant in La Paz, Bolivia. In November 2015, he moved up to NorCal to work as sous chef for Hu at Roots & Rye.

The pair left Roots & Rye in October 2016 and went traveling together the next month, hitting up Nanjing, Chengdu, and Shanghai in China, as well as Cambodia, Vietnam, and Hong Kong. They were back in the Southland by the start of 2017, and, inspired by their travels, began planning for Hock+Hoof. Curiously, the restaurant appeared on LA Weekly's 99 Essentials list in March 2018, which caused a minor controversy and called into question the paper's journalistic integrity given that the place wasn't even open at that point.


Hock + Hoof resides on the ground floor of Hotel Alexandra, specifically the twelve-story addition built in 1911. It occupies the former home of Tabachines Cocina, Ensenada Restaurant, and Mariscos Ensenada, which has been transformed into a cozy, casual space, replete with a green wall, white tile, and plenty of string lighting. Total dining capacity is around 75, including the patio out front.


The menu's fairly diverse, but definitely has a meat-centric, Asian-y inclination as expected. There's a separate weekend brunch menu that looks rather appealing, and happy hour is also an option here. To drink, you get a compact wine list, six local beers on tap plus more in the can/bottle, and a soju-based cocktail list (since they don't have a full liquor license apparently). Click for larger versions.


Smoking Section [$14.00] | Juniper Soju + Carpano Antica + Orange Bitters + White Oak Smoke
I was drawn to this first cocktail due to its use of smoke. Said smoke came through in spades on the nose, where it was joined by sugary, almost maple-like notes. Taste-wise, I found the drink sweet, fruity, and really not very smoky at all, while the soju came through on the mid-palate.


Fall vegetables, scallion creme, dashi potatoes, guajillo salsa [$9.00]
The veggies were enjoyable, each one coming out bright and unique, the zesty crema helping to bind everything together. My favorite part here was the savory crunch of what I believe was potato (or garlic?), and the herbs up top worked for contrast too.


pork toro nigiri, doubanjiang, crispy rice, shiso, young ginger [$12.00]
These were fun little bites. The tontoro showed off a sweet 'n' savory flavor profile at first thanks to the douban, with some heat and the sheer porkiness of the jowl coming in later. The rice did a commendable job moderating everything, and I was a fan of all the crispy bits here to boot.


Petit Pea [$12.00] | Soju + Lemon + Elderflower + Butterfly Pea Flower + Lemon Bitters
This vibrantly-hued cocktail tasted like it looked: sweet-and-sour for the most part, but with a marked floral character bringing up the rear.


Waffle fries, chive aioli [$7.00]
Criss-cross fries had a light, crisp texture, though they could've used more salt when taken on their own. However, things did come together when the fries were dipped in that wonderfully zippy chive aioli.


Bone marrow, lap cheong panko, egg crepe, scallion slaw, house pickles [$19.00]
We were instructed to scrape the bone marrow off onto the crêpe and eat everything together, which made for a unique presentation. The richness of the marrow really called for the acidity of the pickles for balance, while the pancake worked as a backdrop for it all. Interesting crunch from the panko breadcrumbs, too.


Reyes Especial [$13.00] | Toasted Spice Soju + Lime + Tamarind + Blackberry + Demerara + Ango Bitters
Served in a collins glass, this cocktail went down easy with its strong fruity notes evened out by a nice touch of sweet spice on the back end.


cod tempura, nori, black vinegar, pepper salt [$16.00]
Upon tasting this, I was instantly reminded of the Shanghainese staple tai tiao huangyu, and it turns out that it was indeed the inspiration behind the dish. It was actually my favorite item of the night. The fish was perfectly fried, coming out soft and flaky and juicy, with a wonderfully crisp batter laced with the salinity of sea moss. I found it delicious alone, but didn't mind a dab of S&P, either.


Squid, forbidden rice, squid ink, wild mushrooms [$17.00]
Squid arrived soft but snappy, with a light brine that was kicked up a notch by the heavy dosing of squid ink present. Mushrooms further amplified the oomph of the dish, so the herbs (of which I would've preferred more) were crucial as a counterpoint.


Buzzcut [$13.00] | Juniper Soju + Lemon + Osmanthus Honey + Egg White
This cocktail showed off a super flowery foam that tickled our noses, while the taste was similarly soft, smooth, and floral, with a honeyed finish. Note that the drink was garnished with a chewy housemade granola, which quickly sank to the bottom of the coupe.


Wild mushrooms, rice cakes, wok egg, soy, cilantro, thai chili [$15.00]
I'm not sure, but ganjang tteokbokki might have been the inspiration behind this next dish. It was, unfortunately, the weakest item that we tried this evening. I simply found it overly salty/savory (like I needed to put it over rice), though the cilantro and egg did help temper things. Another positive was that the garae tteok and 'shrooms were on point texturally.


Baby octopus, hummus, lollipop kale, harissa, leeks, garlic [$21.00]
Our final savory was a another memorable one. I liked the contrast in texture between the firm-but-supple jukkumi and the smooth hummus. In addition, the garlickiness of the dish appealed to me, as did the bitterness from the kale (though I could've used less of it). Sort of an unusual combination, but it worked.


Wake Up Warrior [$13.00] | Duck Fat Washed Soju + Tomato + Kimchi + Ponzu + Sesame + Togarashi
Here we had a take on the classic Bloody Mary cocktail. I'm actually not a huge fan of the traditional drink, but this was pretty good given that caveat. There was a finessed spiciness and savoriness present, but with a sweetness peeking through that was absolutely key. We actually found it somewhat reminiscent of kimchi gukmul.


The dessert menu's definitely one of the more abbreviated I've seen, but that makes sense given that there's no dedicated pastry chef on the team (the owners do it all). Click for a larger version.


Tres leches cake, strawberries, horchata whipped cream [$9.00]
Tres leches is one of my favorite cakes, and this was a solid example. What made it more interesting was the horchata cream, which had a cinnamon-y spice to it that I was fond of.


Salted egg panna cotta, matcha frosted flakes [$9.00]
The key in this dessert was the interaction between the salty, savory egg and the bitterness of green tea. I have to say that it was really neat, as I don't think I've ever had these flavors combined before. I got a great contrast in texture from the flakes, too.


The Digestif [$13.00] | Banana All-Spice Soju + Carpano Antica + Punt E Mes + Orange Bitters + Orange Oil
Our final cocktail was meant to be a sort of digestif, as you'd expect given the name. I detected loads of fruity banana up front, but this was countered by a distinct bitterness and a bit of a baking spice element.

This was a pretty interesting meal. There's definitely a casualness to it all, but you can tell that there's a serious intent behind the cuisine. We had some unexpected, inventive dishes this evening, so hats off to the team for that. At the same time though, there were a couple things that made me think that some tweaking of the cooking is called for. I'm curious to see where this all goes since there's certainly some talent in the kitchen.