Quantcast
Channel: kevinEats
Viewing all 1450 articles
Browse latest View live

Inn Ann (Los Angeles, CA)

$
0
0
Inn Ann at Japan House
6801 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90028
323.677.5557
www.japanhouse.jp/losangeles/restaurant/
Thu 06/13/2019, 08:30p-12:15a




Inn Ann Exterior For nearly two decades, Mori Sushi has stood as a standard-bearer in the LA sushi scene. Morihiro "Mori" Onodera opened the spot on May 8, 2000 in the former home of longstanding Thai eatery Siam Hut, and soon cemented the place as one of our City's top sushi-ya. However, in March 2011, at the age of 46, the Chef announced that he was selling the restaurant, and the buyer was none other than Masanori "Maru" Nagano--who'd been at the restaurant since day one--and his wife Miyuki Hayashi. The transaction closed that May, and the stated reason for the sale was that Mori-san wanted to take some time off to pursue other ventures (though he did remain as an itamae at his namesake restaurant for some time after).

Onodera began focusing on his pottery (working out of Pasadena's Xiem Clay Center), and would go on to create pieces for local restaurants such as Barbershop, Capo, Il Grano, La Botte, Marino, Melisse, Orsa & Winston, Providence, and Wally's, not to mention celebrated places like Manresa and Meadowood up in NorCal. In addition, he started growing and importing koshihikari rice from Uruguay (under the Satsuki brand), a project he started with Ichiro Tamaki, the farmer that grew Mori Sushi's California Delta rice from back in the day.

These ventures continued on for a few years, but in November 2017, it was revealed that the Chef had returned to cooking, as was now slinging sushi at Shiki in Beverly Hills, coaxed out of retirement by longtime friend and fellow chef Nao Sugiyama (who had recently relocated from New York). I never made it out to Shiki in time to experience Mori-san there, so I was elated to hear that he'd be taking over the kitchen at Japan House's Inn Ann, situated on the fifth floor of the Hollywood & Highland Center.

Opened on November 27th, Japan House is the work of the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and is meant to increase awareness of Japanese culture around the globe. Inn Ann ("hidden retreat") is the facility's in-house restaurant, and was originally designed as a place for Japanese chefs to hold multi-month residencies in the kitchen. First to take the helm was Taro Araki, Executive Chef for the Consulate-General of Japan, but once his short stint was over, Onodera was tapped to become a permanent fixture, with the transition happening right at the start of this year. His work at Inn Ann has been well-received, securing four stars from Time Out's Simon Majumdar and a glowing review from Bill Addison of the LA Times.

Inn Ann Interior
Inn Ann sports a soft, subdued, calming aesthetic. As you can see above, there are some pretty nice views of Hollywood, but I'd recommend that you sit at the bar and focus your attention squarely on the food. Total capacity is around 35.

Inn Ann MenuInn Ann Sake ListInn Ann Shochu, Beer, and Wine List
This is a tasting menu-focused restaurant, and you get your choice of five omakase options. We opted for the flagship Biwa (Japanese for "loquat"), which ended up being $270 a head, though pricing can vary depending on the ingredients used on a particular night. To drink, you'll find an array of sake and shochu, along with a small amount of whisky, beer, and wine. Corkage was $30 a bottle. Click for larger versions.

Sudachi Shochu
1: Sudachi Shochu
Our meal commenced with a welcome drink of sorts, one comprising shochu, sudachi juice, and lotus root brine. It was pretty delicious, and an effective apéritif, its refreshing, vibrant citrus flavors giving way to a light, lingering salinity.

Jikasei Tofu
2: Jikasei Tofu
Here we had the Chef's homemade tofu, which I found mildly nutty. The dollop of wasabi on top provided a contrasting zing to the dish, but even more crucial was the smokiness from the shoyu dashi.

Zensai Moriawase
3: Zensai Moriawase
Next came a septet of small bites. Clockwise from bottom, we had:
  • Mozuku - Long, thin strands of Japanese seaweed were paired with tart, vinegar-y flavors and zesty bits of ginger.
  • Yamaimo - I'd never had Japanese mountain yam quite like this before. It came fried and then boiled in broth, which resulted in increased depth and a much more gratifying, non-slimy consistency. My favorite item here.
  • Oshinko - Tart pickled radish and crisp lotus root.
  • Kinkan - A poached baby kumquat was sugary, almost candied in its presentation.
  • Yamamomo - Baby mountain peach suspended in jelly. Think fresh, fruity and utterly delightful.
  • Atsu-Age - A crispy, fried block of tofu had considerable depth to it, as well as a contrast in textures.
  • Kinpira Gobo - Thin, nutty strands of burdock root.
2004 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill
In terms of libations, we began with a sparkler, the 2004 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. It had a heady, robust nose filled with brown butter, oxidative, and caramel aromas, along with a trace of berry fruit. The palate was similarly full-flavored, delivering both orchard fruit and brioche notes, along with a persistent acidity and a backbone of minerals. As it warmed, the wine became noticeably toastier, with one of my dining companions deeming it Krug-like. Overall I found this assertive yet youthful, with plenty of life left in it still.

Morihiro Onodera
Mori-san hard at work on our next course...

Akagai Sunomono
4: Akagai Sunomono
...And what a course! A favorite of mine, it was a red clam sunomono, with tosazu, kinome miso, and pickled myoga. The clam ate super clean, its delicate taste meshing gorgeously with that wonderfully gusty, vibrant sansho leaf-infused miso. I didn't mind the tart crunch of the included pickles, either. Note also the unique plate utilized here, one of many tonight handmade by the Chef himself.

Botan Ebi Sashimi
5: Botan Ebi Sashimi
Fresh, snappy Santa Barbara sweet shrimp was sliced two ways--thick and thin--so we could enjoy both textures. Taste-wise, it really opened up with a dab of the freshly-grated Japanese wasabi and a dip of Ibaraki-sourced soy. Also great was the grilled, smoky, super oceany head of the shrimp.

Kinmedai Tataki
6: Kinmedai Tataki
Seared golden eye snapper from Japan was great when taken with more of that fresh wasabi, and I loved the crispy, flavorful skin of the fish and how that contrasted its dense, meaty flesh. There was also quite a temperature contrast here that I wasn't quite expecting.

Hamo Owan
7: Hamo Owan
Dagger-tooth pike conger arrived in soup form, its soft, mild meat punctuated as always by tiny bits of bone. The traditional pairing of ume imparted a tartness that moderated the somewhat smoky flavors present. Meanwhile, we also had the junsai, which imparted a slippery textural variation to the dish.

Meso Anago Tempura
8: Meso Anago Tempura
Our tempura course featured young eel from Hokkaido as well as shishito peppers, paired with a classic tentsuyu-plus-daikon, as well as matcha salt and fresh lemon. I was smitten with the tempura, which was pretty flawless, and didn't even need any of the condiments. However, I did prefer the combo of salt and lemon, though that smoky, piquant tentsuyu certainly wasn't bad, either.

Tarabagani
9: Tarabagani
King crab was sweet and unabashedly saline, its potency tempered by a dip into the included tosazu. I also got a lovely char character here as well.

2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots
Our second wine was the 2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots, which I'd actually had nearly six years ago at Opus Sushi in Arcadia. The nose on this one went in a vegetal, seaweed-y, marine direction, with a tinge of citrus. On the palate, I found this round and rich, its initial grassy, mineral-driven notes leading to lingering fruit on the back end. Definitely better than I remember from Opus.

Kagoshima Wagyu
10: Kagoshima Wagyu
A5 wagyu from Kagoshima displayed all the char, fat, and flavor you'd expect and want, and was served two ways: wrapped around Santa Barbara sea urchin then topped with wasabi, and yaki-shabu style. In the former preparation, the uni actually worked to soften the potency of the beef, while in the latter, I really appreciated the levity imparted by the combination of turnip, zucchini, shiitake, and watercress. If that wasn't enough, the one year-aged housemade yuzukosho on the side was excellent, too.

Gari
Time for sushi, which was served on the largest plate I'd ever seen used for this purpose (made by Mori-san, natch). As for the ginger, we were served two varieties. In the rear was your standard gari, while the pieces in the front were marinated whole in salt and vinegar, boiled, then marinated in vinegar again.

Ishidai
11: Ishidai
We began our nigiri portion of the meal with an uncommon selection: Japanese knifejaw (a.k.a. striped beakfish), which I think I'd only encountered once before at I-Naba, and even then, it wasn't in sushi form. In any case, it was a delicately flavored neta, but one with an uncommonly dense, meaty consistency that I found very satisfying. Interestingly, the fish had a very subtle nuttiness at first, which quickly transitioned to a back-and-forth between brine and wasabi. As for the shari, the Chef told us that it came from Ibaraki Prefecture, and is thus not the California or Uruguayan rice that he's known for, which wasn't a problem at all.

Shima Aji
12: Shima Aji
Wild striped jack was beautifully balanced, showing off a particularly harmonious interaction between rice and fish, finished by the unmistakable heat of wasabi. Just about perfect.

Mebachi
13: Mebachi
Next up was the harashi (short for harashida, or "under the belly") cut of New Zealand bigeye tuna. I don't think I'd ever had this before, which is a shame, because it was pretty special. I found the fish super soft, almost pillow-y in fact, with no sinew whatsoever. Really neat.

Kohada
14: Kohada
Following was a trio of hikarimono. Gizzard shad had a firm bite as always, its considerable salinity and touch of sweetness deftly counteracted by the combo of rice and 'sabi.

Aji
15: Aji
Spanish mackerel was delightfully textured, and had a refined oceanic taste to it that grew and lingered. Curiously, when this course was served, we asked Mori-san about the distinction between aji and sawara, and he fell squarely into the aji=Spanish mackerel camp, and stated that sawara=king mackerel. Now, this goes against what some other chefs would say. I recently asked I-Naba's Yasu-san the same question, and he was adamant that sawara=Spanish mackerel and aji=horse mackerel. I've been eating sushi for a pretty long time, and I still can't get a final answer on this.

2018 Daishichi Horeki Junmai Daiginjo Kimoto
Our next beverage was the 2018 Daishichi Horeki Junmai Daiginjo Kimoto, a "free run"shizuku-zake produced by Daishichi Shuzo out of Fukushima. It had an amazingly sweet, rich aroma, one brimming with both banana and bubblegum. The palate was similarly saccharine, almost creamy in fact, with loads of fruity melon finished by a bit of heat on the back end.

Iwashi
16: Iwashi
Last of the silver-skinned fishes was sardine. I found this especially meaty, while flavors were aggressive, with tartness and brine all over the place, moderated just enough by the presence of rice.

Akagai
17: Akagai
Ark shell (a.k.a. blood clam) was a treat, coming out supple and springy, with a polished brine that was well matched to a bit of wasabi.

Ikura
18: Ikura
Globules of salmon roe tasted of the sea, just as expected, and worked hand-in-hand with their seaweed wrapper, also just as expected.

Santa Barbara Uni
19: Santa Barbara Uni
Sea urchin from Santa Barbara ate super juicy this evening, and seemed especially sweet. As always, I really appreciated the contrast provided by the nori.

Misoshiru
20: Misoshiru
The miso soup displayed plenty of the classic umami flavors I was expecting, offset just a smidge by the zestiness of those scallions.

Hokkaido Uni
21: Hokkaido Uni
To compare and contrast with the urchin above, we also had some sourced from Hokkaido. Unsurprisingly, this was a more contemplative presentation, with less sweetness and a more pronounced minerality. And once again, the seaweed was key.

Anago
22: Anago
Soft cuts of salt water eel arrived in a cozy sort of preparation, replete with a sweet-ish sauce and long-lasting salinity.

Ginga Kogen Plateau of the Galaxy
Next to drink was a beer from Iwate Prefecture, the Ginga Kogen Plateau of the Galaxy [$13]. This one had a fruity nose, with hints of funk, grassy spice, and grain. Taste-wise, I found it soft, sweet, and easy-drinking, its fruit-forward nature evened out by nuances of citrus, spice, and more grain.

Tamago
23: Tamago
Tamagoyaki was one of the better versions I've sampled in recent times. I found it dense and substantial, yet never heavy, while taste-wise, it conveyed a great balance between sweet and savory.

Mirugai
24: Mirugai
We specifically requested this snappy cut geoduck, I'm glad we did. What struck me was the nori, which was actually placed underneath the neta, a presentation that I'd never seen before. Location aside, the seaweed worked superbly in concert with the rice and clam, effectively evening out all the flavors at play.

Akagai Himo-Kyuri Hosomaki
25: Akagai Himo-Kyuri Hosomaki
Here we had a cut roll featuring the himoki, or crunchy mantle/muscle/fringe of akagai. It was great to see another side of the clam here, and I especially enjoyed the interaction between it and the light, bright nature of the cucumber.

Yamamomo Granita
26: Yamamomo Granita
Closing out the meal was a sole dessert of mountain peach granité, paired with local Gaviota strawberries and shiso. I found the sorbet super fruity, especially when taken with the berries, so the shiso actually worked as a great accent piece here. Fun, refreshing, and a good palate cleanser.

When I first heard of Inn Ann, I have to say that I was a tad skeptical, but with Mori-san installed in the kitchen, this is definitely the real deal. The Chef seems particularly comfortable behind the bar. He has a certain ease to him, perhaps because of all the time off he's had, or perhaps it's just a confidence that comes with age. In any case, the end result was a pretty much flawless meal that managed to both surprise and delight. If you're an old fan of Mori or a fan of sushi in general, you should be visiting this place. This has definitely been one of my top meals of the year so far.

Scala Stonegrill (Alhambra, CA)

$
0
0
Scala Stone Grill Restaurant
1411 S Garfield Ave, Alhambra, CA 91801
626.782.7898
www.scalastonegrill.com
Fri 06/14/2019, 08:00p-10:10p




[Note: Scala looks to have closed up for good as of late July, so I suppose this post will just be for historical curiosity.]

I recently attended a birthday dinner at Scala Stonegrill, which was chosen largely due to its proximity to Energy Karaoke (where we headed afterward). The restaurant opened last August in the newly constructed Regent Plaza complex, situated on the site of the old Regent Cafe (and later, Harbor Kitchen). The kitchen is headed by Chef Ben Tam, reportedly of The Peninsula Hotels, and the conceit here is that diners grill their own food on super-heated stones (sourced from this Australian firm).

Scala Stonegrill Interior
The decor isn't the most understated.

Scala Stonegrill Menu: Lunch Special, Salad, Noodle Soup, Soups, TapasScala Stonegrill Menu: Main, Basil & Meat Dishes, StonegrillScala Stonegrill Beer, Sake, Soju, Wine, and Cocktail ListScala Stonegrill Beverage ListScala Stonegrill Beef Instructions
As far as the menu goes, it really is all over the place ("fusion"). In addition to the proteins intended for Scala's namesake stone grill, you get starters ranging from takowasa to truffle fries, mains running the gamut from baked pasta to bò lúc lăc, and strangely enough, an entire section dedicated to basil dishes. Drink-wise, you'll find a few beers, sake, a smattering of soju, some wine, and the cheapest cocktails I've ever seen (only $6!). There's also a large array of flavored teas if you're not into the alcoholic stuff. Corkage was advertised at $15 a bottle. Click for larger versions.

2019 de Garde The Broken Truck
We ended up bringing our own booze, beginning with the 2019 de Garde The Broken Truck, a four-year blend of spontaneous wild ale aged in oak barrels. The beer smelled fantastic; think tart and aromatic at first sniff, but with layers of sugary stone fruit underneath. Flavors, meanwhile, were acidic and funky up front, while peach appeared on the mid-palate and transitioned to a dry finish with a bitter, herbaceous edge. Excellent.

Spicy Crispy Chicken
Spicy Crispy Chicken [$6.00]
Our meal commenced with some chicken, which was indeed as crispy as advertised, but sadly, not very spicy at all, verging on underseasoned in fact. There was also this undercurrent of sweetness in the bird that didn't need to be there.

Japanese Fried Squid Legs
Japanese Fried Squid Legs [$7.00]
The ika geso age was a letdown as well. Again, there was this distracting sweetness present that didn't sit well with me, but more worrisome was the staleness I could taste in the batter. The limp veggies on the side didn't help things, nor did that disconcertingly green-hued wasabi sauce.

Angus RibEye
Angus RibEye (Cooking)
Angus RibEye (Fully Cooked and Cut)
Angus RibEye [$21.00]
Time to get grilling. First up was the rib eye, which was decent texturally, but didn't really deliver much in the flavor department; think of it as your basic supermarket steak (and I'm talking Safeway, not Whole Foods). As far as the veggies went, I enjoyed the onions, and didn't mind the corn, but the broccoli and carrots appeared to be devoid of any seasoning whatsoever. And to add insult to injury, the carrots managed to be super mushy.

2018 Modern Times Monsters' Park Aged in Bourbon & Rum Barrels with Cocoa Nibs, Coffee, & Vanilla
The evening's second beer was a blended stout, the 2018 Modern Times Monsters' Park Aged in Bourbon & Rum Barrels with Cocoa Nibs, Coffee, & Vanilla. I got tons of dark fruit on the nose (from the rum barrels I'm guessing), which was joined by distinct cocoa notes. On the palate, there was lots of oak, lots of barrel up front, giving way to sweet chocolate and fruit flavors laced with bitter Black House coffee, while the back end really showcased the fragrance of the Madagascar/Ghanaian vanilla beans.

Steak Condiments
Given that the steak above was far from flavorful, we made sure to make use of the provided condiments: seasoning powder, garlic butter, and barbeque sauce.

Black Truffle French Fries
Black Truffle French Fries [$6.00]
Fries were textbook for the most part, but the truffle here was very, very, very subtle. Not worth the 50% premium over your standard fries.

Basil Shrimp Stir Fry
Basil Shrimp Stir Fry [$16.00]
This was my favorite dish of the night. The shrimp were cooked properly, still sweet and saline, and not overdone, and meshed superbly with the unmistakable pungency of basil. Really tasty.

2017 Modern Times Wizard & Graf
Next to drink was the 2017 Modern Times Wizard & Graf. Created in collaboration with Wandering Aengus Ciderworks, this was a blend of grisette and apple juice, fermented and then aged in a clay amphora, then finished by months of bottle-conditioning. The nose here showed off a sweetness that recalled candied fruit, along with notes of sour plum. In terms of taste, I found the beer on the dry, mineral-y side, with both pome fruit and stone fruit commingling with a marked funky element. Pretty delish.

Atlantic Lobster
Atlantic Lobster (Cooking)
Atlantic Lobster (Fully Cooked)
Atlantic Lobster [$23.00]
Lobster tails cooked up fairly well, and were on point texturally. However, in contrast to the preceding steak, I actually found these overly salty, to the point that you had a hard time discerning the actual lobster.

Garlic Butter Crispy Chicken
Garlic Butter Crispy Chicken [$6.00]
Our second order of chicken wasn't as crispy as our first, but was certainly more aggressive in terms of seasoning. There was a proper garlickiness present, and I definitely got the butter. Unfortunately, the butter actually made the bird taste worse.

Shrimp XO Sauce - Fried Rice
Shrimp XO Sauce - Fried Rice [$13.00]
We originally ordered the abalone and shrimp fried rice, but the kitchen was out of abalone, so shrimp-only it was. I didn't really care for the gimmicky square frustum shape here, but this was a solid fried rice, and my second favorite dish tonight. The brine of the shrimp was well conveyed, but also amplified by the depth and complexity of the XO.

2015 Evil Twin Double Barrel Jesus
Our final beer was the 2015 Evil Twin Double Barrel Jesus, a blend of different bourbon barrel-aged imperial stouts. Appealing nose rife with sweet coconut and actual nuts. Taste-wise, I got a base of sweet smoke and chocolate, with further layers of dark fruit, brown sugar, and oak. A great no-adjunct stout.

Pacific Scallops
Pacific Scallops (Cooking)
Pacific Scallops [$18.00]
Scallops looked the part, though they were a tad sandy and lacking in the sweetness department. That being said, they still cooked up pretty decently, and were my preferred protein of the three.

Birthday Cake
Given that this was a birthday, we were able to enjoy a cake at the end of the meal (sans cake cutting fee, which was nice).

I think it's pretty apparent that I didn't particularly care for my meal at Scala, as the restaurant seems to be focused more on the novelty of grilling on a hot rock than the quality of its food. There were a couple standouts, but by and large, I get the sense that the kitchen doesn't really give a damn (I mean, they couldn't even get popcorn chicken right). I don't see myself ever coming back here again.

Masakazu (Los Angeles, CA)

$
0
0
Masakazu Sushi
1911 Westwood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
310.421.9779
Sun 06/16/2019, 07:55p-11:35p




Masakazu Exterior

One of LA's newest (notable) sushi debuts is Masakazu, which I'd been hearing some good things about recently. The place is located in the Tehrangeles stretch of Westwood, and opened at the start of the year, taking over the former home of Sushi Masu. The restaurant is helmed by Chef/Owner Shinichi "Shin" Akazawa, who serves an almost exclusively nigiri-centered menu.

About the Chef: Akazawa hails from Japan's Okayama Prefecture, and came to the United States in 1996, at the age of 23. To find his first job, he went to a local Japanese restaurant (the old Kyushu Ramen in Panorama City) and started asking customers for work. Interestingly enough, one customer allowed him to sleep on his sofa and taught him gardening. The Chef also dabbled in pet supplies around this time, apparently trying to establish a US outpost for a company that produced odor control products using ionized water. Akazawa, however, felt that the best way to get a green card was to work at a restaurant, so he left his gardening gig and began waiting tables at the now-closed Ueru-Ka-Mu in Tarzana. Due to its late closing time, the izakaya was a frequent haunt for local Japanese eatery owners, and he eventually landed multiple job offers from these patrons.

He ended up working in the kitchen for the first time at Masanobu Shibuya's eponymous Shibuya in Calabasas. Akazawa stayed seven years there making sushi, and was finally able to secure his green card. Afterward, he spent time at another restaurant, learning other facets of Japanese cuisine from an eventual mentor of his, then moved over to Gonpachi inside Torrance's Miyako Hybrid Hotel. From there, the Chef partnered with friend Takashi Mura and took over Northridge noodle shop Futaba, and then served a brief stint at Sushi Sushi in Beverly Hills. This was followed by tenures at Sawtelle's Echigo (where he met Yuko, our server tonight) and Sushi Masu. He specifically wanted to work at Masu given what he'd heard about the skills of owner Hiroshi Masuko (especially regarding rice), who'd started in sushi at the age of 15 before coming Stateside when he was 30, first cooking at the Bonaventure before opening up Tasuki in Downtown in the early 1990s (at the site of Mumford Brewing).

Akazawa then moved to Mammoth Lakes at the behest of Mura, who wanted to open another branch of his Sawtelle eatery Ramenya there. The Chef spent three years in the mountains, even running an informal sushi bar ("Sushi Akazawa") at the back of the restaurant. However, in early 2018, he was informed by Masuko that Sushi Masu would be closing. Akazawa made the decision to take over the place, borrowing the necessary funds from friend Hiroaki Suzuki, owner of Mon Atelier, a bistro-like spot in Tokyo's fashionable Shibuya ward.

Masakazu Interior
The room has been revamped from the Sushi Masu days (it's quite a bit more minimal), though the basic layout remains. The bar seats 11, and I believe there are also a couple tables.

Masakazu MenuMasakazu Sake ListMasakazu Beer & Sake ListMasakazu Wine & Beverage List
Masakazu's menu is straightforward enough: two levels of omakase (we went for the $120) and a small à la carte selection. Do note that they charge $5 per person for hon wasabi, which I sort of feel should be included at this price point. On the beverage side of things, you get a small sake list, just a single beer option, and a mere three wines. Corkage was $30 a bottle. Click for larger versions.

Sakana no Supu
1: Sakana no Supu
Our meal commenced, unusually, with a shot of whitefish broth. I found it hot and heady, imbued with the essence of the ocean and a healthy dose of umami.

Zensai
2: Zensai
The appetizer course was also unexpected, and featured a mix of slow-simmered yellowtail and albacore. The hodgepodge didn't look very appealing, but fortunately it tasted better, with the robust savory notes in the fish evened out by a marked sweetness from what I'm guessing was the (miso-based?) sauce on top. The arugula salad wasn't particularly interesting, though its peppery, piquant notes did add some levity to the dish. Much better was that crunchy kinpira renkon.

2011 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Belle Epoque
To pair with the food, we opened up a bottle of the 2011 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Belle Epoque. It had a fresh, racy nose dominated by tart apple and citrus. The palate, meanwhile, was surprisingly rich and full-bodied, with prominent flavors of pome fruit commixed with a light toasty character and traces of minerality. The wine was actually drinking better than I'd anticipated, and wasn't nearly as immature as I feared, though I think it'll get even better with time.

Kuromaguro Akami
3: Kuromaguro Akami
Our parade of sushi began with Spanish bluefin. This was a particularly soft, almost pillow-y example, one with an intriguing fruitiness to it and plenty of shoyu savor.

Toro Tataki
4: Toro Tataki
Seared Spanish bluefin was a delicious bite, its richness and abundance of fat and salinity making for a worthy counterpoint to the depth of the fish's miso dressing. Great zestiness from the scallions up top, too.

Hamachi
5: Hamachi
The yellowtail was one of the fattiest, briniest examples I've eaten, so the contrast provided by the soy and rice were absolutely crucial.

Sake
6: Sake
Salmon was lean and clean, with a superb accent in the form of that nutty goma.

Tai
7: Tai
The sea bream showed off an especially focused, fine-spun flavor, one beautifully augmented, but never overwhelmed by the yuzukosho.

Trio of Nigiri
Next came the "ponzu family" of fishes, which were served together given the common sauce. I would've preferred these presented separately though.

Binnaga Maguro
8: Binnaga Maguro
The albacore was a mild-tasting neta, so it really functioned as a canvas for the classic, complementary flavors of ponzu and green onion.

Sawara
9: Sawara
King mackerel was one of the more satisfying bites texturally, and had a subtle smoky character to it that matched well with the ponzu's tartness.

Tai
10: Tai
Our second piece of bream really highlighted the citrus-y nature of ponzu, and how that interacted with the pristine flavors of the fish.

Trio of Sakizuke
Next came another trio of bites.

Awabi
11a: Awabi
Dense-yet-supple slivers of abalone displayed an almost seaweed-esque marine quality.

Ankimo
11b: Ankimo
Monkfish liver conveyed a lovely bit of smoke, its richness cut by a plethora of tart, tangy notes.

Kurodai
11c: Kurodai
The black sea bream was my favorite of the bunch, coming out with a soft, nearly squishy consistency and flavors that balanced a ponzu-esque acidity with a bit of char bitterness.

2018 de Garde Muscat Première
Our second beverage was the 2018 de Garde Muscat Première, a spontaneous wild ale aged in oak barrels, refermented with Oregon Muscat grapes. The beer smelled tart, citrusy, yeasty, with a metallic overtone and perhaps a hint of oak. On the palate, I got more sourness, along with grain-y notes, earth, lemon, and the fruitiness of the grapes. This was pretty tasty, though I wanted the Muscat to be more apparent.

Hotate
12: Hotate
Scallop was super soft, its mixture of sweetness and brine meshing well with what I believe were notes of truffle.

Kurodai
13: Kurodai
Truffle made another appearance with the black sea bream, where it was joined by the nuttiness of sesame seeds and a finish redolent of shiso.

Kohada
14: Kohada
Shin-san stated that uses less vinegar treatment for his gizzard shad, which resulted in a more aggressive, fishier flavor profile here.

Tai no Atama
15a: Tai no Atama
At this point, the head of the sea bream above was presented, its tender flesh giving up a mixture of sweet and savory flavors.

Sawara no Atama
15b: Sawara no Atama
The head of the king mackerel also made an appearance. It had a firmer, rougher consistency, while the taste was, unsurprisingly, more assertive in terms of salinity.

Ankimo
16: Ankimo
A creamy dollop of monkfish liver had a very palpable sweetness to it, one that was fortunately moderated by the presence of nori.

Ikura
17: Ikura
I found this an especially sweet presentation of salmon roe, which wasn't a bad thing. Nice touch of wasabi here to boot.

Gindara
17: Gindara
The butter fish was definitely one of the more luxurious bites of the night, and showcased a pronounced brine to it that really matched up well with the sesame.

Uni
Uni [$12.50]
Santa Barbara sea urchin was more mineral-driven than usual, and again, that seaweed was great for balance.

Unagi Shirayaki
Unagi Shirayaki [$15.00]
Shin-san's presentation of grilled freshwater eel was more austere (and bonier) than most, which just a smidge of sweetness from the tare.

Tamago
Tamago [$4.00]
The tamagoykai signaled the end of the meal, and this particular example was fluffy in terms of texture, while flavors were mostly savory, but with a pleasantly sweet edge.

Kokuto Donut-Bo, Tamanegi Arare
There was no dessert, but I was instead provided a brown sugar doughnut stick and an onion rice cracker to take home.

I'm glad I made it out here. We enjoyed the meal, and the service, coordinated by Yuko-san (a 13-year Mori alum who left in 2014 and now also works at Sushi Sushi and Echigo), was excellent. I'd place Masakazu a notch below the top sushi spots in LA. It didn't quite have the finesse and polish you find at the really high-end spots around town, and I'd also prefer a wider/more interesting range of neta. As for the rice, I found it very "neutral," so to speak, and at a very nice temperature. It never got in the way, never drew attention to itself, yet was always there as a crucial moderating force. The restaurant is still young, and I think the Chef will keep growing and evolving. This is one to watch.

Kass (Los Angeles, CA)

$
0
0
Kass Wine Bar + Restaurant
320 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.413.2299
www.kassrestaurant.com
Tue 06/18/2019, 08:35p-11:10p




[Note: Unfortunately, Christophe Émé has stepped away from Kass after a mere six months. Apparently his last day in the kitchen was August 24th.]

Kass Wine Bar + Restaurant Exterior Christophe Eme is back, and it's about damn time. More seasoned diners might remember him from the highfalutin Ortolan in Beverly Grove, which closed over eight years ago. The Chef pretty much fell off the radar until relatively recently, when word of Kass began to surface. Situated at the confluence of Hancock Park and Miracle Mile, Eme's more casual spot grand-opened on February 1st, and I definitely wanted to pay him a long overdue visit.

About the Chef: Born in June 1969, Christophe Paul Gaston Émé hails from Angers, a city in France's Loire Valley, and started helping out in the kitchen at a young age. By 16, he knew he wanted to become a chef, and thus started an apprenticeship at the Hôtel de France in nearby Contres. From there, he worked chef de partie positions at a number of well regarded eateries: the three-star Le Pont De Brent in Brent, Switzerland under Gerard Rabaey; the three-star Auberge De l'Eridan in Veyrier-du-Lac in the French Alps under Marc Veyrat; Michel Rostang's eponymous two-star restaurant in Paris; the two-star Laurent in Paris under Philippe Braun; and Paris' legendary three-star Taillevent under Philippe Legendre.

At the start of 1997, Taillevent owner Jean-Claude Vrinat inked a two-year deal to operate Le Normandie at The Oriental hotel in Bangkok, and sent Émé to run the kitchen there (his first CdC gig). While cooking in Thailand, he met a manger from Daniel in New York, who subsequently gave him the idea of moving to the US. The Chef wouldn't come Stateside just yet though. From Bangkok, he transitioned over to the one-star Harlekin in Berlin, then served as CdC at the two-star Auberge Des Templiers in Boismorand, France. Émé eventually did relocate to NYC in the fall of 2001 and worked various jobs there, but couldn't gain any traction.

In 2003, he was scouted to replace none other than Ludovic Lefebvre at the iconic L'Orangerie, and subsequently moved to Southern California. He began making a name for himself there thanks to his more nuanced approach to French cuisine, and not long after starting, met his future wife: actress Jeri Ryan. In August 2004, it was announced that the couple would be taking over the old Linq space on West Third, and Ortolan would debut in February the following year. Soon he was deemed one of Food & Wine's "Best New Chefs," while 2006 saw him compete on Season 3 of Iron Chef America, where he lost a lobster battle to Masaharu Morimoto.

In June 2007, Émé and Ryan got married in the Vallée de la Loire, and in November that year, Ortolan received a one star rating in Michelin's first ever SoCal guide. The Chef's daughter Gisele Émé was born next March, but the 2008 financial crisis took a huge toll on the restaurant. Brunch service started in May 2009, but it wasn't enough to save Ortolan, which shuttered in December 2010 (the building remained vacant for years before becoming Bianconi, and then a second outpost of Inko Nito, now also closed). After Ortolan folded, Émé began focusing his energies on private cheffing, though in January 2012, it was reported that he was thinking about taking over the old Tradition by Pascal in Newport Beach; that never happened.

Thanks to his wife's many contacts, he did pretty well with his private dinners, and ended up meeting one David Saetia, who agreed to finance a new restaurant with the Chef. Said restaurant was originally going to be called Le Pull-Over Bleu, but the name was changed to Kass shortly before the place was announced in January 2018. Kass debuted the following February with Kyley Jacoby (Gjelina, Terroni) installed as Sommelier-slash-Manager (she's since moved to Margot) and Taylor Parsons (most known for his work at Republique and his recent gig at The Manufactory) doing the wine list.

Kass Wine Bar + Restaurant Waiting Area
There's a quaint little covered sitting area up front. I'm not sure if they actually serve food here though.

Kass Wine Bar + Restaurant Interior
Peeking Into Kass Wine Bar + Restaurant Dining Room
Kass takes over the former home of Wilde Wine Bar & Restaurant, and 3Twenty Wine Lounge and Louvre Gallery before that. The room's been redone by Annie May of local firm Kuskin / May, with significant input from the Chef himself. It has a homey sort of feel, which was Émé's intent, and diners also get to peer into the restaurant's semi-open kitchen. Total capacity is listed as 40, which includes the bar.

Kass Wine Bar + Restaurant Menu
Kass' menu is pleasingly compact, divvied up simply into smaller and larger plates. Click for a larger version.

Scrambled Eggs
Scrambled Eggs [$28.00] | kaluga caviar
The meal got off to a superb start with this classic (the Chef was making this back in the L'Orangerie days I believe) pairing of lush, creamy egg with a dollop of oh-so salty caviar. This combo pretty much never disappoints, and was made even better by the zestiness of what I believe were chives here.

Georges Laval, Extra Brut Garennes | NV
To drink, we opted for a bottle of Champagne, the Georges Laval, Extra Brut Garennes | NV [$155]. The wine smelled great, giving us notes of racy apple mixed with a smidge of funk, some minerals, and a touch of brioche. It delivered in terms of taste, too, its pome fruit flavors transitioning to a delightfully toasty character, with bits of bitterness and herb as accents. Overall, this was way better than I thought it'd be, especially for a non-vintage bottling.

California Morels
California Morels [$26.00] | gnocchi, asparagus & pea coulis
This just might've been my favorite course of the night. Brown butter gnocchi delivered on all fronts, beautifully augmented by the woodsy funk of the mushrooms. That combination was delicious just by itself, but what took this over the top was the sheer vividness of that pea-asparagus, which did a fantastic job lifting and brightening the dish. This was no doubt one of the best preparations of gnocchi I've ever had.

Dungeness Crab
Dungeness Crab [$23.00] | ratatouille, avocado, parmesan tuile
I'd never experienced crab quite like this before, but I'm glad I did, because this was another standout. Taken alone, the crab was sweet and saline, just as you'd expect, but perked up a bit by the presence of espelette. The ratatouille actually worked surprisingly well as a sort of vegetal contrast, but my favorite element here was that tuile, which gave the dish a rich, cheesy, salty finish that just satisfied in a base sort of fashion.

basil mashed potatoes, red pepper coulis
Grilled Octopus
Grilled Octopus [$23.00] | basil mashed potatoes, red pepper coulis
Arriving on a shichirin hida konro, the octo generated quite a bit of smoke--it felt like we were at KBBQ! That being said, I loved the char character that the grill imparted, though the meat could've been a touch juicier. It was tender though, and tasty, and worked great with the heady aromatics of basil.

Pierre et Rodolphe Gauthier, Bourgueil Jour de Soif | Loire Valley 2018
To pair with the mains, we were given a complimentary pour of Cabernet Franc, the Pierre et Rodolphe Gauthier, Bourgueil Jour de Soif | Loire Valley 2018. I got a wonderfully fruity nose absolutely brimming with strawberries, along with a peppery spice. The palate showcased more of that sweet-tart berry, which grew and lingered long, joined by just a trace of minerality. An eminently fun, gluggable wine, one meant to be drunk young and fresh.

Roasted Squab
Roasted Squab [$38.00] | english pea ravioli
Time for some main courses. Squab ate tender and juicy, with that almost funkiness you expect from the bird. Given its potency, the peas and radishes here were crucial for balance, and I was a fan of that ravioli as well.

Veal Sweetbreads
Veal Sweetbreads [$35.00] | spring vegetable risotto
Sweetbreads were delicate, yet earthy and luxurious at the same time. The risotto, meanwhile, was a textbook presentation that functioned near flawlessly as a counterpoint to the ris de veau, and I loved the presence of all the veggies, which provided further contrast. And of course I can't forget about those morels, either.

Kass Wine Bar + Restaurant Dessert Menu
A small array of sweets and fromage is joined by a handful of after-dinner drinks. Click for a larger version.

Château Roumieu-Lacoste, Sauternes 2016
Dessert wine duties were handled by the Château Roumieu-Lacoste, Sauternes 2016 [$15]. The wine smelled fantastic, with pineapple and honey all up in my face. The palate was super thick, viscous, giving up soft, round flavors of marmalade, stone fruit, and caramel, all offset by nuances of spice and acidity. Delicious, and a great pairing with the tart below. Note that this ended up being complimentary, as the wine poured was actually of a different vintage than the one listed on the menu.

vanilla ice cream
Tarte aux Pommes for Two
Tarte aux Pommes for Two [$18.00] | vanilla ice cream
At the beginning of the meal, we pre-ordered the Chef's signature dessert, which apparently takes 45 minutes to prepare. The tart was spot on, delivering classic, delectable flavors of apple, which made perfect sense when taken in concert with the provided vanilla ice cream. The star here, though, was that ultra thin pastry, and how flaky and interesting it was with its multitude of layers.

I'd been anticipating Émé's return for what seems like forever, but I'm happy to report that the wait was worth it. Compared to what he was putting out over at Ortolan, the food here is more relaxed for sure, but still has enough of a gastronomic edge to keep things interesting. It's unmistakably French at its core, but the Chef has imbued his cooking with a healthy dose of California and our focus on seasonality and easy-breeziness. Émé has sort of reinvented himself at Kass, and he appears to be much more comfortable, more content in this environment. I hope he sticks around.

Yours Truly (Los Angeles, CA)

$
0
0
Yours Truly Restaurant
1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90291
310.396.9333
www.ytvenice.com
Sun 06/30/2019, 08:10p-10:20p




We last caught up with Vartan Abgaryan at 71Above, not too long after it opened back in 2016. The place soon established itself as one of the more notable dining destinations in Downtown, and things seemed to be going well by most accounts. However, in February this year, it was announced, somewhat surprisingly, that the Chef would be leaving the restaurant, to be replaced by his CdC and longtime colleague Javier Lopez. Not long after, we found out that Abgaryan was going to be running things at Venice's new Yours Truly, and the eatery ended up dropping on March 21st.

Yours Truly is located in the former home of Salt Air, which shuttered at the start of February. Salt Air was spearheaded by David Reiss, and Reiss remains on board as a partner, as do Moise and Carol Ann Emquies. New to the mix is Paul Pruit, the founder of hospitality consulting group New School, who's also a partner in Roy Choi's Best Friend at the Park MGM in Las Vegas (in addition, he was a F&B partner at The Line Hotel and helped out with both A-Frame and Salt Air). Running the FOH, meanwhile, is General Manager Michael Abruscato, a Salt Air alum.

Yours Truly MenuYours Truly Cocktail & Wine by the Glass ListYours Truly Wine & Beer List
Abgaryan refers to his cooking here as "Modern Californian," which I guess it means it draws from all over the place (not necessarily a bad thing). To drink, you'll find low-proof cocktails from Brian Butler, beverage director for Reiss Co, about a half dozen beers, and a fairly diverse wine list. Click for larger versions.

Avocado Hummus
Avocado Hummus [$16.00] | salsa macha, peanut, lime, za'atar flatbread
Our meal got off to a fantastic start. The "hummus" blended the smooth, savory, and surprisingly complex nature of avocado with a delightfully nutty, multifaceted spice from the salsa, while the cilantro imparted a striking brightness. It was a perfect pairing with the flatbread, a supple, heavily spiced, sesame-forward example that was reminiscent of manakish bi za'atar. Really fun, really smart.

Adonis
Adonis [$13.00] | fino, vino chinato, dopo teatro, orange & aromatic bitters
The evening's first cocktail was a doozy. It smelled great thanks to its aromas of citrus and dark fruit, while the sherry gave things an oxidative slant. On the palate, I got more intense Fino character, with tons of nuts, fruit, and chocolate joined by citrus and herb on the drink's long-lasting finish. Very cool.

Chicken Liver Mille Crêpe
Chicken Liver Mille Crêpe [$15.00] | rye crêpe, kumquat, artichoke persillade, currant mostarda
The most unconventional dish we had was this savory take on a mille crêpes cake. What was intriguing here was how the airy rye pancakes moderated the potency of the liver; it was almost like having it spread over a piece of bread. However, the dish wasn't complete without is three accompaniments, which provided contrasting sweetness, acidity, and mustard-y zing.

BBQ Octopus
BBQ Octopus [$26.00] | peach bbq, lebni, mustard seeds, watercress, aleppo pepper, lemon
I was pretty impressed with the octo as well, which I found tender enough, with a proper level of smoke and char. The barbeque sauce was a bit of a concern for me, but fortunately its sweetness was tempered, and instead I got a nice amount of heat from it. Great tanginess from the mustard here, too.

Dante's Inferno
Dante's Inferno [$13.00] | cappelletti, orange, pineapple, coconut, nutmeg
Given the name of our second cocktail, I was expecting something a bit more challenging, but this was super quaffable. In fact, it almost had some Creamsicle-like flavors, its notes of tart pineapple and citrus well-accented by the warming spice of nutmeg on the back end.

Fingerling Potato
Fingerling Potato [$14.00] | cacio e pepe, black peppercorn, egg yolk, pecorino, parmesan
A rejiggered cacio e pepe was a winner, and really did recall the classic dish. I got a healthy dose of black pepper, which worked seamlessly with the saltiness of the Parm, all while the egg imparted further richness to the fray. What made this really work, though, were those silky, creamy potatoes, which functioned beautifully as a stage where all these strong flavors could sing.

Nashville Hot Shrimp
Nashville Hot Shrimp [$29.00] | japanese milk bread, cabbage, pickle juice vinaigrette, mustard
Thankfully, the hot shrimp weren't too hot, but instead showed off an aggressive level of seasoning that was much more contemplative. It linked up pretty well with the strong salinity of the prawns, and I appreciated the levity provided by the slaw. As for the milk bread, it was perhaps a touch dry, but did serve to even out the heady flavors at play here.

Yours Truly Tonic
Yours Truly Tonic [$11.00] | white port, juniper, lavender, cucumber, citrus
I found this super fruity, which I guess you can sort of expect from cocktails served in a wine glass. Refreshing flavors of peach and sour plum contributed to a very familiar sort of tartness that I couldn't quite put my finger on. The lavender, meanwhile, was more of a factor on the nose, while the juniper was fairly subdued as well, peeking through just enough.

Kanpachi
Kanpachi
Kanpachi [$18.00] | rhubarb, daikon, verjus, lime, green tea, basil, mint
Here, the fattiness and brine of amberjack was mellowed out by a rather tart rhubarb-based broth. The dish was a bit one-note though, as I really didn't get much from the advertised mint or basil, which I think would've helped lift and balance the dish. I couldn't really taste the green tea, either.

'Carbonara'
"Carbonara" [$32.00] | squid ink shells, uni, trout roe, bottarga, chipotle butter
Squid ink-infused conchiglie were set in a buttery, chili-infused sauce. It had this type of heat that builds up, that sneaks up on you a little bit. The sea urchin actually smoothed out the considerable heat and salt in the dish, making for a more interesting than expected eating experience.

Gold 75
Gold 75 [$14.00] | lillet, passionfruit, habanero, citrus, prosecco
Our final cocktail was a fun one. Thanks to the use of Prosecco, I found it not unlike a fruited sour beer (think Berliner Weisse), while I also detected a touch of heat from the habanero bringing up the rear.

Coconut Macaroon
Coconut Macaroon [$10.00] | coconut ice cream, shaved pineapple, lime
Dessert comprised a crunchy, coconut-y macaroon, draped with multiple layers of tart pineapple and sprinkled with lime zest. I wasn't in love with this, but I did enjoy the almost floral notes present.

Lemon-Basil Pâtes de Fruits
Lemon-basil pâtes de fruits had this sort of generic sweetness up front, with the basil coming in on the mid-palate, joined later by sour citrus.

Yours Truly describes itself as an "earnest neighborhood restaurant," and I do sort of get that. Despite a couple hiccups, I think Abgaryan is doing some pretty commendable work in the kitchen, taking inspiration from myriad sources and combining them into food that seemingly makes more sense than it should. The cooking's bold, maybe even brazen, but also approachable and often whimsical at the same time. I was a bit bummed to see the Chef depart 71 Above, but he seems to have found a good home here, so we'll see how long he can stay.

Torigoya (Los Angeles, CA)

$
0
0
Torigoya Restaurant
123 Astronaut Ellison S Onizuka St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.687.0690
www.torigoyala.com
Mon 07/01/2019, 08:05p-10:40p




Torigoya Exterior

If we're talking about Torigoya, it might make sense to first mention Kokekokko. Opened circa 1988 by Tomohiro "Tomo" Sakata, the Little Tokyo eatery had long been the standard-bearer for yakitori-ya in LA. However, the original Central Avenue restaurant closed on January 24th, 2015 due to lease issues, but ended up re-opening the following month a short distance away, in the former Weller Court home of Koshiji. This new iteration of Kokekokko didn't even last a year though, closing in January 2016.

It was replaced the next month by Torigoya, which was under new ownership, but retained much of the same staff. In fact, I believe Tomo-san even stuck around to mentor the new team, led by Kokekokko alum Kyota Morita. Morita seemed to be doing well, but would eventually leave the spot at the end of December 2017 to work at the likes of Rossoblu and Kinjiro. January 2018 saw the re-opening of Torigoya, now under the watch of Tomoki Sugaya, a native of Inashiki, Ibaraki who was sent to take over the place by the restaurant's Tokyo-based owner. Sugaya has been in the States since late 2017, and crucially, has never cooked at Kokekokko.

Torigoya Interior
Located on the second floor of Weller Court, Torigoya retains pretty much the same decor from the Kokekokko days. That's not a bad thing, as I find all the wood rather charming.

Torigoya Yakitori ListTorigoya Menu: Appetizer, Side Dishes, SaladsTorigoya Menu: YakitoriTorigoya Menu: Rice and NoodlesTorigoya Specials MenuTorigoya Beer, Wine & Shochu ListTorigoya Sake List
Menu-wise, the focus at Torigoya is clearly on the various skewered chicken parts, though there are numerous appetizers, bowls, and sides available as well. To drink, you get a small-ish selection of sake, shochu, beer, and wine. Corkage was advertised as $20 for wine and $8.50 for beer (750mL), with no hard alcohol allowed, though we ended up getting charged only $15 for our two bottles. Click for larger versions.

Hatsu (Tare)
Hatsu (Tare) [$2.99]
Our parade of chicken began with heart, a supple-yet-chewy presentation that was a real treat texturally. However, I wanted a bit more smoke, more char to really even out the earthiness of the organ.

NV Moët & Chandon Champagne Nectar Imperial
Our first beverage was the NV Moët & Chandon Champagne Nectar Imperial, a demi-sec style sparkler. The wine had a rich, heady nose rife with ripe apple and a touch of stone fruit. The palate was creamy and luxuriant, showing off loads of melon and more stone fruit, along with lots of sugary, honeyed notes. Interestingly, this was actually the Champagne that helped get me into Champagne back in the early 2000s. I don't drink many demi-secs these days, so it was nice to revisit this bottling, which was as fun as ever.

Sunagimo
Sunagimo [$2.99]
Gizzard was as crunchy as expected, its gritty, sandy consistency giving way to a superb saltiness on the back end. Great with a dab of zingy karashi.

Momo (Shio)
Momo (Shio) [$2.99]
Thigh ate tender and succulent, and was filled with all the cozy, classic flavors you'd want. Can't go wrong with this.

Sunagimo Kawa
Sunagimo Kawa [$3.50]
Gizzard skin was something that I don't think I'd ever encountered before. I got lots of sweet char up front, which led to a definite earthiness, while texturally it was on the tough, rough side.

Tsukune (Shio)
Tsukune (Shio) [$3.80]
I enjoyed the meatballs' rustic consistency and how the green onion was incorporated, though I felt that they could've used more seasoning.

Kubi
Kubi [$4.20]
Neck (also called seseri) was a standout. It had a delightful bite to it, and I found it super flavorful, with the essence of the grill well conveyed.

Nankotsu
Nankotsu [$4.20]
Yagen-type cartilage from the breast was crunchy but yielding, and just really gratifying texturally. I liked the robustness of the sear here, and the cut was great with a dab of mustard, too.

Kawa (Shio)
Kawa (Shio) [$???]
The chicken skin was a favorite, with its abundance of fat and char on proud display. Excellent crunchiness here as well.

Toku Hatsu
Toku Hatsu [$4.20]
Compared with the standard preparation, the special heart was even better texturally, with a more refined, more delicate flavor profile to boot.

2018 Drie Fonteinen Hommage
Next to drink was a beer, the 2018 Drie Fonteinen Hommage, created by macerating sour cherries and raspberries in young lambic for six months, then blending the resultant liquid with old lambic to obtain the desired effect. On the nose I got a base of tartness and funk, with bright fruit notes layered on top and a touch of metallic character. Taste-wise, I found the beer sour and acetic as expected, while some barnyard came in on the mid-palate, joined by flavors of raspberry, sharp lemon, and then strong, lingering cherry.

Momo Kaburi
Momo Kaburi [$4.20]
I believe the "soft thigh" may have been the same thing as soriresu (chicken oyster). In any case, I found it as soft as advertised, and much more interesting texturally compared to regular thigh, while flavors were decidedly more contemplative.

Sasami
Sasami [$2.99]
The breast was one of the better versions I've tried, coming out supple and not-too-dry, and imbued with a commendable amount of smoke. I didn't mind the punch of that wasabi on top, either.

Harami
Harami [$???]
Another unusual, off-menu cut was this diaphragm meat. It had a lovely chew, and showed off a deft blend of savoriness and smoke that certainly satisfied. Delish.

Bonjiri
Bonjiri [$???]
The chicken tail was another off-menu selection. I often call bonjiri my favorite yakitori cut, and once again it delivered in spades. I just loved its perfect mix of fat, lean, char, crunch, and in-your-face chicken-iness. Definitely try to order this if you can.

Nasu
Nasu [$2.80]
Eggplant had a proper smoke to it, while its consistency went in a soft, spongy direction.

Shiitake
Shiitake [$2.80]
Squishy cuts of mushrooms were savory and sweet, their woodsiness punctuated by pops of salt.

Ue Hatsu
Ue Hatsu [$4.50]
Special special heart was very different compared to the two preceding examples. I found it sweet, but not overwhelmingly so thanks to the cut's smokiness, while texturally it was almost springy.

Kin-Niku
Kin-Niku [$???]
Near the conclusion of the meal, when I asked my server if I was missing anything, he mentioned this, though he couldn't articulate exactly which part of the chicken it was. Meanwhile, Chef Sugaya seemed to refer to it as "kaimatsu" when he served the cut, though I may have misheard him. I really don't know what this is, but no matter, it was a favorite of mine, and a great one to end with: think super tender, super juicy, super flavorful.

I was a bit bummed when I heard that Kokekokko was closing. In the world of yakitori in LA, that place was as close to an institution as you could get. However, all is not lost, as Torigoya, under the watch of Tomoki-san, looks to be a worthy replacement. Save for a few quibbles, the food was pretty much spot on, and the kitchen had a number of out-of-the-ordinary cuts that I appreciated as well. If you're into yakitori, this place certainly needs to be on your list.

Ceviche Project (Los Angeles, CA)

$
0
0
Ceviche Project Restaurant
2524 1/2 Hyperion Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90027
323.522.6744
www.cevicheproject.com
Tue 07/09/2019, 08:35p-11:05p




Ceviche Project Exterior In the world of LA pop-ups, Ceviche Project has got to be one of the longest-running of them all, first launching all the way back in 2011. The work of Chef Octavio Olivas Benitez (with help from wife Shannon Olivas), the pop-up became pretty well-regarded over the years for its Mexico City-style raw seafood preps, claiming to never serve the same dish twice. Fortunately for the Chef's many fans, Ceviche Project has found a permanent home, and opened on April 3rd this year in the former digs of Silver Lake's Pazzaz Sushi.

About the Chef: Olivas was born and raised in Mexico City. He got interested in raw seafood during fishing trips with his father, and had his first taste of ceviche (made using sierra mackerel) at El Tecuán beach in Jalisco at the age of four. In 1998, he enrolled at the Universidad Autónoma de San Luis Potosí to study law, but was burned out by his fourth year (he'd been working at a law firm since starting school), and thus decided to study abroad in the UK in order to party and learn English. In London, he very quickly exhausted the money he'd saved up, and had to get jobs dishwashing at a bakery (mornings) and bartending (nights) to pay the bills. Olivas was even homeless for a couple weeks, but eventually managed to befriend a guy in Chelsea and live with him. It was at a Chelsea bartending gig in 2003 that he would meet his future wife, Shannon Provost, who was also studying abroad in England (from Syracuse University).

Following the Chef's graduation in 2004, the couple lived in Manhattan, which is where he first started hosting ceviche-themed dinner parties, and the two eventually got married in June 2006. Shannon worked at communications firm Citigate Sard Verbinnen during this period, while Olivas attended law school and toiled as a legal assistant at the Portela Law Firm. In 2007, the newlyweds relocated to LA (Los Feliz), since Shannon had landed a sweet corporate communications and investor relations gig at DreamWorks. After getting rejected by UCLA and waitlisted by USC, Olivas eventually enrolled in the LL.M program at Pepperdine (with a focus on dispute resolution), and graduated in 2008 after enduring that hellish commute for a year (interestingly, at the time he was driving a Golf GTI, which he ended up selling for $4000).

At the end of 2009, he started working as a mediation program coordinator for the Center for Civic Mediation, but quickly realized that his true calling wasn't in law, but in raw fish. Thus, he began testing recipes at home, then held the first Ceviche Project dinner on November 11th, 2011. The location was the private Sidebar room inside Silver Lake's Bar Covell, a spot that just happened to be owned by friend Dustin Lancaster. Numerous other pop-ups followed, including: December 2011 at Palate Food + Wine, April 2012 at L&E Oyster Bar, April 2013 at Dominick's, May 2013 at Soho House, and September 2013 at Barsha Wines and Spirits. The Olivas' welcomed daughter Victoria in January 2014, and not long after, the Chef left his mediation job. The couple actually had plans to open a brick-and-mortar Ceviche Project location by the end of the year, somewhere on the East Side.

Plans ultimately fell through though, and more pop-ups followed: September 2014 at MessHall, June 2015 in New York, July 2015 once more at MessHall, August 2015 at Skybar at Mondrian, and October 2015 again at the Mondrian. In January 2016, Olivas teamed up with Freddy Vargas (Scarpetta) and Brandyn Tepper (Cocktail Academy, Hinoki & the Bird) to take over Los Feliz's El Chavo, which had closed the past November. However, Vargas left that May, replaced by Phillip Frankland Lee and his associate Alex Carrasco. Olivas, meanwhile, stayed there until July, and then brought Ceviche Project to Mexico (CDMX, Cabo San Lucas, Tulum, Puerto Vallarta). Further pop-ups came in September 2016 at Peska Cocina Latina in Houston, April 2017 at Bar Bandini, and February 2018 at Bar Angeles. Finally, in September 2018, it was announced that Ceviche Project had found a permanent home (thanks in part to a partnership with Alejandro Marin's Grupo Palmares), while in November, Olivas helped launch Buen Provecho CDMX, a version of DineLA for Mexico City.

Ceviche Project MenuCeviche Project Specials Menu
Ceviche Project's menu is tight and focused, which I like, while to drink, you get a few interesting wines, Mexican beer, and perhaps a cocktail or two. Corkage is not offered unfortunately. Click for larger versions.

Caviar Accompaniments
Caviar
Caviar [$40.00]
Our meal kicked off with the caviar service, which was one of the specials offered this evening. We were provided tins of private batch Californian Sturgeon caviar and trout roe, along with a silky avocado mousse, micro cilantro, and corn tostadas, and encouraged to play around with various combinations. I tried the trout first, and found it sweeter than I was expecting (not a bad thing), with less overt brine than most ikura. The caviar, meanwhile, was potent yet refined, and showcased a salinity that sort of creeps up on you. I found that the best way to eat this was to take everything in together, since I loved how the bright, herbaceous, citrusy notes from the avocado/cilantro really offset the salt inherent in the roe. At the same time, the super crunchy, gritty, Fritos-esque tostadas provided a welcomed textural element.

Aperol Spritz
The evening's first cocktail was the Aperol Spritz [$14], a classic apéritif that was easy and refreshing with its bittersweet, citrusy disposition.

Hawaiian Kanpachi Tostada
Hawaiian Kanpachi Tostada [$16.00] | with tosazu, grapefruit, avocado mousse, ruby radish sprout, trout roe, nasturtium
Almaco jack belly ate firm and fatty, its richness enhanced by the umami-packed nature of tosazu and salty trout roe, while the combination of juicy grapefruit suprêmes, avocado, and zesty sprouts evened things out. Great crunch here from the tostada, too.

Scallop on the Half Shell + Add Uni
Scallop on the Half Shell + Add Uni [$4.00/each + $7.00/each] | with tangerine, pomegranate, serrano, cilantro, lava salt
Scallop "shooters" arrived in both regular and sea urchin-enhanced forms. I tried the regular first, and got lots of olive oil richness up front, which then led to the tartness of the fruit, with the sweetness of the scallop moderating everything. On the other hand, the uni really came through on the mid-palate, where it added a robust, lingering brine that definitely made a difference.

Sake Cocktail
The generically-monikered Sake Cocktail [$13] displayed plenty of tart yuzu up front, set against some bitter, vegetal flavors from the sake that came through more on the back end.

Striped Sea Bass Ceviche
Striped Sea Bass Ceviche [$16.00] | with xni-pek, watermelon radish, tomato, cucumber, onion, fresno, tostadas
Cubes of sea bass were infused with a delightful, intriguing spice that must've come from the use of habanero-infused xni-pec salsa. The veggies, meanwhile, offered up some contrast and made the dish somewhat gazpacho-like I'll say, while I enjoyed the herbaceousness bringing up the rear here. And again, I made good use of those wonderfully crispy tostadas.

Snow Crab Claws
Snow Crab Claws [$16.00] | with chile de arbol salsa
The snow crab was excellent, some of the best I've ever had in fact. Taken by themselves, the claws were juicy and remarkably sweet, and worked great with a squeeze of lime. Fortunately, the included salsa managed to not overwhelm the inherent goodness of the crab, and instead provided just enough of a long-lasting, multifaceted heat.

Chiltepin
The Chef provided us with dried chiltepin peppers in a mini mortar and pestle setup.

Tai Snapper Ceviche
Tai Snapper Ceviche [$17.00] | with pineapple, cancha, heirloom carrots, jicama, jalapeño, plantain chips
The snapper ceviche had a very prominent fruitiness and freshness to it, which was counterbalanced by the crunch and salt provided by the cancha. The plantain chips, meanwhile, were light and crisp, with just a smidge of sweetness, though I would've preferred a more traditional tostada.

Oyster on the Half Shell
Oyster on the Half Shell [$21.00] | with bespoke mignonette
Presented with Fresno chili, cucumber, cilantro, and a white wine vinegar mignonette, Kusshis were small but superb. I loved how sweet and creamy they were, and how well the piquancy of the mignonette came through on the mid-palate, while the finish was all brine.

Paramo - Pale Ale
At this point we moved into a couple beers, starting with the Paramo - Pale Ale [$9] from Cervecería de Colima in El Trapiche. It smelled great, giving up lots of sweet, tropical, floral, fruity notes on the nose. On the palate I got stone fruit-like flavors and a lil' bit of banana, but tempered by a backbone of spice, grass, malt, and hop bitterness.

Yellowfin Tuna Tostada
Yellowfin Tuna Tostada [$13.00] | with yuzu-habanero sorbet, orange, celery, arare, micro-cilantro, olive oil
Clean cuts of yellowfin were accompanied by a palpably smoky, burnt character than I enjoyed, and there was this undertone of heat in the dish that also jibed. The rice crackers were an interesting addition, and even though I'm not a fan of celery, it worked well here as a counterweight to the fish.

Mushroom Carpaccio
Mushroom Carpaccio [$13.00] | lemon, arugula, parmesan, olive oil, sea salt
We decided to try one of the vegetarian options, and I can say that it didn't quite live up to the rest of the menu, mostly because I actually tasted very little mushroom here. Instead, I got a lot of cheese and a lot of olive oil, which made the dish surprisingly hefty, though the zippiness of the arugula did help lighten things up.

Piedra Lisa - Session IPA
From the same brewery as the beer above came the Piedra Lisa - Session IPA [$9]. It smelled of tart pineapple, mango, and subdued citrus. Taste-wise, I got hop bitterness right up front, blended with again more tropical fruit and a bit of pine. Pretty easy-drinking.

Mexican Sea Urchin
Mexican Uni
With the meal coming to a close, the Chef proceeded to give us a sampling of Mexican sea urchin. I found the roe exceptionally fruity at first blush, while a refined brine came through later on, joined by the tartness of lime and pinpricks of sea salt.

Peanut Butter Ball
Peanut Butter Ball [$3.00] | with dark chocolate and sea salt
Olivas has no time at the moment to do a dessert menu, but it's something he may attempt later on. Thus, for the time being, the restaurant is serving a dish from Speranza across the street, apparently created by the wife of one of the owners. This was a pretty classic pairing of chocolate and peanut butter, with the latter being relatively restrained. I will say that the shell was on the firm side.

Ceviche Project has been looking for place to call home for years now, and I'm glad to see that the team has settled in nicely here in Silver Lake. Olivas is doing some pretty neat things at his modern cevichería-slash-raw bar, pairing classic preparations with a bevy of outside-the-box influences. It's all very "LA" to be sure, but the key is that he does a good job in not letting that creativity overshadow the pristineness of his seafood.

Ototo (Los Angeles, CA)

$
0
0
Ototo Restaurant
1360 Allison Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90026
213.784.7930
www.ototo.la
Tue 07/16/2019, 08:30p-10:35p




Ototo Exterior

Chef Charles Namba and Courtney Kaplan's Tsubaki is probably my favorite Echo Park debut of the past couple years. The diminutive Californian izakaya opened in February 2017, and has no doubt established itself as one of the most popular restaurants in the area. Given the success of the place, Kaplan and Namba had expansion on their minds, and wanted to take over the spot next door and use it as a second dining room. However, plans changed, and the pair decided to launch Ototo ("younger brother") in the space instead. A casual sake bar concept, Ototo grand-opened on May 22nd, once again in concert with the backing of Sprout LA.

Ototo Interior
Ototo lands in the former home of the Novak hair salon. Like its bigger brother, it's a small, cozy space, centered around an 11-seater bar. There are some seats along the opposite wall, as well as a semi-private dining den further in the back that seats up to 10.

Ototo MenuOtoto Specials Menu
Ototo's menu is delightfully compact, and features the Chef's take on Japanese-y drinking food (a.k.a. sakana). Click for larger versions.

Ototo Sake List: Taiten Shiragiku TastingOtoto Sake List: Fruit + Flowers / Earth + UmamiOtoto Sake List: Rice + Minerals / Delicious WeirdosOtoto Sake List: Seasonal + NamaOtoto Sake List: Warm Sake / In CupOtoto Wine List: Bubbles / White / PinkOtoto Wine List: Red & Beer List
Ototo Sake List: Junmai + HonjozoOtoto Sake List: Junmai + HonjozoOtoto Sake List: Junmai + HonjozoOtoto Sake List: Ginjo + Junmai GinjoOtoto Sake List: Ginjo + Junmai GinjoOtoto Sake List: Ginjo + Junmai GinjoOtoto Sake List: Daiginjo + Junmai Daiginjo
Ototo Sake List: Daiginjo + Junmai DaiginjoOtoto Sake List: Old Fashioned TechniquesOtoto Sake List: Old Fashioned TechniquesOtoto Sake List: Nigori / Something SpecialOtoto Umeshu ListOtoto Shochu List
The beverage selection is pretty broad. Ototo just might have the best sake list in town, one with a particular focus on craft-brewed jizake. If that's not your thing, there's also a small, mostly New World wine list, a handful of exclusively Japanese beers, as well as an array of umeshu and shochu. Click for larger versions.

Goma-Ae
Goma-Ae [$9.00] | haricots verts, creamy sesame dressing, crunchy chili garlic.
Green beans weren't quite as crunchy as I'd prefer, though they were on point taste-wise thanks to the dish's smart combination of super nutty sesame and chili-fueled heat.

Hirame Crudo
Hirame Crudo [$19.00] | fluke, yuzu oil, rakkyo, scallions.
This was a somewhat unusual "clumped" presentation of crudo, though looks aside, it was a standout. Texturally, the flounder was firm, meaty, satisfying, and had its delicate flavor profile well complemented by the bright, acidic, zesty notes from the duo of citrus and scallion. If that wasn't enough, there was this slight heat in the dish that I appreciated as well.

Shuzo Watanabe with Sakeman crew (Nicholas T. Matsumoto)
President Shuzo WatanabeTaiten shiragiku 'miki nishiki' junmai / Taiten shiragiku 'shiragiku-mai' junmai
Paying a visit to Ototo this evening was Shuzo Watanabe, President of Okayama Prefecture's Shiragiku Shuzo brewery, who was joined by two members of the Sakeman crew (a masked team involved in sake import, distribution, and marketing). They were here to promote two limited production sakes, both made from heirloom strains of rice. The first we tried was the Taiten shiragiku 'miki nishiki' junmai. It smelled fantastic, with a base of fruity, floral, almost bubblegum-like notes layered over a touch of heat. On the palate, I got loads of sweet, ripe melon-like fruit tempered by a smidge of ricey savor--clean and easy drinking for sure. Next was the Taiten shiragiku 'shiragiku-mai' junmai, which differed in the variety of rice used (ostensibly revived from a mere 55 remaining seeds) and its two-year aging process. The nose on this one was candied, and actually reminded me a bit of meringue. Taste-wise though, it was quite a different story, as I got a much more pronounced "brown" grain character, along with grassiness, funk, and plenty of umami. It was definitely a more contemplative drinking experience.

Nasu Dengaku
Nasu Dengaku [$9.00] | grilled japanese eggplant, saikyo miso, shiso.
Smoky cylinders of eggplant were paired with the sweet-savoriness of saikyo miso, a surprisingly effective counterpoint. Nice nuttiness on the finish here as well.

Kara-Age
Kara-Age [$14.00] | japanese fried chicken, sweet 'n sour.
I've had a decent amount of karaage in my life, but never anything quite like this before. The chicken itself was properly tender, with a nice crispness to it, but the crux here was the "sweet 'n' sour." I'm not sure what it was (black vinegar?), but it imparted a lovely tanginess to the dish, one that linked up swimmingly with the zestiness of that green onion. There was a touch of heat in the dish that I didn't mind, either.

Aki shika 'bambi cup' / Kaika 'sanomaru cup'
Next up were two "cup" sakes, which we ordered quite simply because my dining companions were smitten by their cute designs. The Aki shika 'bambi cup' [$16] smelled great, giving up an abundance of floral, sweet nuances. Its taste was clean, straightforward, approachable, but never boring, with just enough rice hiding underneath. We also had the Kaika 'sanomaru cup' [$16]. This one was muted on the nose, and just a hint of fruitiness peeking through. Its taste was less fruit-driven, and instead showcased more rice and toastiness in a rather dry package.

Chicken Katsu Sando
Chicken Katsu Sando [$12.00] | fried chicken sandwich, snowy cabbage, tonkatsu sauce.
The restaurant's take on a fried chicken sandwich certainly hit the mark. The cutlet itself ate tender, moist, and had a crisp-but-not-too-crisp breaded crust that didn't get in the way. The key here, though, was Ototo's version of tonkatsu, a sweet-salty concoction that worked hand-in-hand with the creaminess of the cabbage to tie everything together.

Okonomiyaki - pork belly
Okonomiyaki - pork belly [$14.00] | savory Japanese cabbage pancakes, an Osaka classic. all served with okonomi-sauce, Kewpie mayo, pickled ginger, katsuo-bushi.
The okonomiyaki is advertised as one of Ototo's house specialties, and it didn't disappoint. In fact, it was no doubt of the best versions of the dish I've had. I just found it superbly balanced and well put together, I think due to the freshness and crunch of the cabbage utilized, and I loved the salt and savor imparted by the bits of pork belly. A must try.

Hitachino Nest 'saison du japon' koji and yuzu farmhouse ale
At this point we moved on to a beer, the Hitachino Nest 'saison du japon' koji and yuzu farmhouse ale [$13]. Nose was as expected, with notes of citrus joined by sweet malt and a touch of yeastiness. In terms of taste, I got boatloads of astringent citrus moderated by light spice and yeast.

Ode to MOS Burger
Ode to MOS Burger [$14.00] | japanese chili, shredded iceberg, yuzu thousand island, tomato.
I've never had the pleasure of tasting an O.G. MOS Burger, so I can't say how this compares, but I can say that it was pretty damn tasty. What made this really work for me was the chili, which provided a hominess, a heartiness that really hit the spot, all accented by the piquant nature of the yuzu-boosted Thousand Island.

Strawberries and Cream
Strawberries and Cream [$10.00] | harry's berries, yuzu, myoga, sake-ka-su whipped cream.
We ended with Ototo's lone dessert option, which married super sweet, super juicy strawberries with a delightful sake kasu-infused whipped cream.

I'm quite the fan of Tsubaki, and I have to say that Ototo is a fitting follow-up, sort of serving as a brasher, more rambunctious variant of its bigger brother. The place is worth checking out just for its booze selection alone, but the fun, festive food delivered as well. My only concern here would be the wait, which can get pretty long. We stood around for about 75 minutes (putting our name down at approximately 7:15), and keep in mind that this was a Tuesday.

Church & State (Los Angeles, CA) [4]

$
0
0
Church & State Restaurant
1850 Industrial St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.405.1434
www.churchandstatela.com
Fri 07/19/2019, 08:20p-11:50p




Church & State Exterior

We last checked in with Chef David Féau back in December 2015, shortly after he started cooking at Wally's in Beverly Hills. He was doing some great things in the kitchen there (and was also overseeing the company's Santa Monica location), but wound up leaving the restaurant in November 2018. His whereabouts remained unclear for a while, but at the end of May, it was revealed that he'd be taking the helm at Arts District mainstay Church & State.

Church & State, if you recall, was opened in September 2008 by Steven Arroyo, Yassmin Sarmadi, and Chef Greg Bernhardt, but really started making a name for itself when Walter Manzke was installed as top toque just three months after opening. Sarmadi eventually bought out Arroyo in September 2009, while Manzke decamped in March 2010. He was replaced by Joshua Smith, and not after, Jeremy Berlin, while Sarmadi's beau Tony Esnault became Executive Chef at the start of 2013. The restaurant actually filed for bankruptcy in July 2017 due to a longstanding labor lawsuit, but hung in there for quite a while before announcing its closure at the end of April this year.

Now of course we have to mention prolific LA restaurateur William "Bill" Chait (recently: Tartine, Tesse), who's apparently an acquaintance of Sarmadi's. He was able to reach an agreement with her to take over Church & State, and contacted Féau about coming on board as Chef. Féau jumped at the opportunity to revamp the restaurant, keeping the bistro vibe but making things a bit more fun and modern. Sarmadi and Esnault, meanwhile, have gone on to open upscale French eatery Knife Pleat at the old Marché Moderne space in South Coast Plaza (and remember, their other project Spring shuttered in August 2018).

After a surprisingly speedy month-or-so turnaround, the new Church & State re-opened on June 11th. Taylor Parsons (ex-Republique, among others) is on board as partner, as is Chait's new wife Clija de Oliveira (the two got hitched last August). CdC duties are handled by Brandon Mendoza, while the FOH is run by General Manager/Beverage Director Adam Ohler and AGM Brooke Silva.

Church & State Interior (from kitchen)
Church & State Interior (from entrance)
Inside, things aren't drastically different, and even the old tables and chairs remain. However, the former restaurant's red walls have been repainted in more neutral tones, the lighting has been redone, and overall the place is a bit less boisterous. The patio out front is still in place, though it's been beefed up.

Church & State 'Le Plats du Jour' MenuChurch & State MenuChurch & State Beverage List
Feau's bistronomie-inspired menu is pretty compact, which I like, and is augmented by a list of specials hand-written by the Chef himself. On the beverage side of things, there are cocktails by longtime Chait collaborator Nick Meyer, a couple beers, and a very French-leaning wine list curated by Ohler. Corkage is $35 a bottle. Click for larger versions.

Cherry Sling
Cherry Sling [$14.00] | cherry bounce, rye whiskey, benedictine, lemon
We went with a round of cocktails to start. This reworked Singapore Sling was light and toasty on the nose, with flavors that blended sweet, fruity notes of cherry with bitter, lingering herb.

French Baguette
French Baguette [$5.00] | Butter Rodolphe Le Meunier
I'm not sure if the baguette we had was made in-house, but either way, it was a pretty much textbook example thanks to its crisp, crusty exterior hiding soft, airy insides. The star here, though, was clearly Rudy Le Meunier's vaunted Beurre de Baratte from Normandy. It's an intense butter, salted to be sure, but with a particular depth to it. We even requested a couple extra loaves as to not let it go to waste.

Smoked Trout Puff
Smoked Trout Puff [$9.00/6 pc]
Feathery cubes of puff pastry nearly dissolved in the mouth, releasing a torrent of smoke and umami from the trout that was cut by a subtly acidic element. Yum.

Young Pope Vol. 2
Young Pope Vol. 2 [$11.00] | lime, riesling, finocchietto, seltzer
Our second cocktail married an intriguing citric tartness with a strong aromatic, herbal character from the fennel.

Doubled Truffle Duck Egg
Doubled Truffle Duck Egg [$27.00]
Here we had an altogether luxurious dish of poached-then-scrambled duck egg, augmented by chicken jus and the pervasive funk of summer truffle. Interestingly, the egg had a consistency that was simultaneously creamy and gritty, and of course the toast imparted further textural variation to the bowl.

Tuna Tartare 'Margarita'
Tuna Tartare "Margarita" [$8.00/2 pc]
A complimentary serving of tuna tartar wasn't what I was expecting, since the "Margarita" actually made me think of the pizza initially. In any case, it was certainly one of the most unique, fun versions of the dish I've experienced, especially given the tart, acidic, lime-forward finish that really did recall its namesake drink.

Sazerac Normand
Sazerac Normand [$14.00] | calvados domfrontais, cognac, rye whiskey, peychaud's, absinthe
A calvados-enriched version of one of the most classic of cocktails smelled, somewhat surprisingly, of sweet tropical fruit laced with citrus. The palate, meanwhile, was somewhat thick, with plenty of boozy, bitter, herbaceous notes finished by notes of apple.

Bacalao Croquette
Bacalao Croquette [$10.00/2 pc] | Salsa Verde
The bacalao was a standout for me. It was satisfyingly salty to be sure, but what made this special were the greens mixed in with the fish, as well as that bright, nutty salsa verde on the side, both of which perfectly balanced out the cod.

Mushroom, Truffle Flat Bread
Mushroom, Truffle Flat Bread [$19.00]
This crisp-crusted flatbread was easy to enjoy, mixing cheesiness and zesty notes of onion with the earthy, funky smack of truffle and mushroom.

Kitty
Kitty [$12.00] | beaujolais, rancio, lime, ginger, club soda
This ended up being perhaps the most interesting cocktail of the night. I found it strongly sweet 'n' spicy at first, with an almost bracing citrusy zest going on. The finish, meanwhile, showcased more fruit and spice, along with a growing, lingering oxidized character that I rather enjoyed.

pâté de lapin à la pistache
pâté de lapin à la pistache [$13.00] | rabbit and pork belly paté, pickled peach, pistachio
Pâté ate rustic and palpably porky, and had a peppery spice that really did a great job accenting the forcemeat. At the same time, I loved the delightfully piquant mustard on the side, and didn't mind that sugary cut of peach, either.

tartare de bœuf
tartare de bœuf [$16.00] | beef tartare, chicharrones, herb-mustard salad
The Chef's tartar was spot on, the beef coming out superbly textured and beautifully spiced; it matched swimmingly will all the herbs as well. Chicharrones were salty and smoky and savory and worked well for textural contrast. Unfortunately, a couple of the pieces were super hard, so hard in fact that some of my dining companions were concerned about tooth damage.

Sour
Sour [$14.00] | tequila reposado, lime, cinnamon, apricot eau de vie, egg white
Our final cocktail certainly showcased the apricot, meshing the sweet stone fruit with creamy egg white and wisps of cinnamon, while the booze gave the drink a base of astringency.

langue de bœuf
langue de bœuf [$12.00] | beef tongue, celery ravigote, croutons
Nuggets of beef tongue were soft and dense, their dark, savory flavors heightened by a very noticeable sweetness. The celery, meanwhile, worked as an effective contrast due to its refreshing crunch and brightness. The croutons, too, functioned as a moderating element.

tarte flambée
tarte flambée [$15.00] | leek tart, swiss cheese, green onions, grilled scamorza
Flammkuchen has been on the menu at Church & State since pretty much day one, so it was nice to see Feau's take on it. His version had a more substantial crust, which came out crisp and well-charred. The sweet-savory nature of the leeks was really highlighted, as was the heft of the two types of cheese.

2015 Chartron et Trébuchet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Blanchots Dessus
After cocktails, we moved into wine, starting with the 2015 Chartron et Trébuchet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Blanchots Dessus. Fruity, floral nose with a grassiness and minerality. The palate, meanwhile, was on the softer, rounder side, showing notes of fresh citrus, lemongrass, oak, and buttered toast--classic and subtle. We made sure to pour a glass for Chef Feau, but it turns out that we were completely outclassed by the DRC Montrachet given to him by former boss Joachim Splichal, who was in the dining room tonight (with his son I believe).

soupe à l'oignon
soupe à l'oignon [$12.00] | french onion soup, bone marrow, raclette, chopped parsley
Served in what appeared to be a Korean ttukbaegi, next up was an excellent rendition of French onion soup, one of the best I've had no doubt. The star of the show was the onion, naturally, and I appreciated how balanced it was in terms of sweet 'n' savory. The sheer cheesiness of the dish was also crucial, making for an utterly rich, homey, gratifying course. Great crunch here from the croutons, too.

spaghetti cacio e pepe
spaghetti cacio e pepe [$21.00] | garlic, black pepper, pecorino romano, grana padano
The Chef's version of cacio e pepe was a crowd-pleaser as well, with the dish's base of properly al dente pasta serving beautifully as a stage for an explosion of cheesy, peppery, salty, and almost briny flavors.

ragoût de lentilles
ragoût de lentilles [$18.00] | du puy lentils, english peas, shaved summer truffle
I've tasted Feau's stew of Le Puy lentils onmanyanoccasion, and I consider it almost a signature of his. As always, I loved how savory and nutty and earthy the lentils were, and how they meshed with the brightness and pop of those peas, all while the truffle imparted an enveloping musk to the dish. This is something that I could just eat a whole big bowl of, and was likely my favorite item of the night.

Pinot Noir Blend, d. henriet-bazin, brut grand cru | 2010 champagne, fra
We ordered a bottle from the restaurant's list to try to get corkage waived (success!), and settled on the Pinot Noir Blend, d. henriet-bazin, brut grand cru | 2010 champagne, fra [$88]. It ended up being a lovely pick. I was pretty smitten with the wine's intense, heady nose filled with apple-y fruit, funk, and toast. The palate, meanwhile, was bright and brioche-y, conveying plenty of acidity along with a sprinkling of nuts and a great mineral backing. A really nice showing overall.

agneau en casserole
agneau en casserole [$38.00] | stewed lamb, merguez, goat's milk ricotta, fava beans, summer squash, mint
At this point we got into our main courses. Up first was this rather refined, aromatic, subtle-tasting dish of lamb, one taken up a notch by the more aggressive seasoning and spice on the sausage. The greenery did an admirable job lightening things up, though I would've liked to have tasted more from the ricotta.

courgette provençale
courgette provençale [$9.00] | baked romano squash, sardine garlic butter, lemon juice, brioche crumbs
The zucchini was provided on the house, and was meant to go along with the steak below. I found it firm, substantial, with plenty of smoky, salty, briny flavors, though it could've used more acidity.

ballotine de poulet rôti
ballotine de poulet rôti [$38.00] | boneless roast chicken, pine nut purée, morel mushrooms
The chicken was delicious, coming out beautifully seasoned and juicy, the morels adding a rich, woodsy quality to the dish that definitely heightened the bird.

2004 Louis Jadot Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Barre
Our final beverage was the 2004 Louis Jadot Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Barre, en magnum. Appealing nose brimming with strawberries, along with flowers, stone, and some "green" qualities. On the palate, I found the wine tannic, with a noticeable heat, subdued fruit, and notes of herb, earth, and grass.

asperges
asperges [$9.00] | grilled asparagus, jamón serrano, pine nuts
Juicy stalks of asparagus were about what you'd expect, their bitterness going along well with the saltiness of that ham.

onglet à l'échalotte
onglet à l'échalotte [$38.00] | hanger steak, bone marrow, shallots, baby kale, blackberries
Cooked medium per the kitchen's recommendation, our hanger steak was pretty classic, a reasonably tender, flavorful cut that took well to the advertised shallots. I appreciated the kale as a counterweight here, though the marrow didn't make itself known as much as I thought it would.

pommes rattes
pommes rattes [$9.00] | smashed double-fried potatoes
Now this was certainly the most intriguing of our sides. One of my dining companions described it as being "like if a chocolate chip cookie and a French fry had sex." I'd tend to agree with that assessment, since this really did have a Chips Ahoy-esque sweetness to it along with the expected savoriness of potato.

Church & State Dessert Menu
Dessert duties are handled by Pastry Chef Stephan Carriere, who worked with Feau at Wally's (and also spent time at Le Petit Paris). Click for a larger version.

soufflé au grand marnier
soufflé au grand marnier [$15.00] | grand marnier soufflé, orange salad, vanilla ice cream
The soufflé was pretty much textbook, arriving supple and fluffy with flavors that blended egginess with a very obvious citrus-y tinge.

Domaine Roulot l'Abricot du Roulot
Ohler then poured us some Domaine Roulot l'Abricot du Roulot, a relatively rare bottling from the well-known Meursault producer. The liqueur smelled great, blending intoxicating notes of candied apricot with a boozy backing. On the palate, I got rich, round, thick flavors of stone fruit all over the place, accented by a medicinal, bitter edge that added a welcomed complexity.

tarte tatin
tarte tatin [$12.00] | roasted apple tart, peach sorbet, canela, chile
Here, the otherwise classic, cozy flavors of an apple tart were enhanced by the warming spice of cinnamon and chili.

Market Berries Pavlova
Market Berries Pavlova [$12.00]
The kitchen then sent out the evening's dessert special, which featured a spot on meringue topped with tart berries and tempering whipped cream.

truffes au chocolat maison
truffes au chocolat maison [$10.00/6 pc] | chocolate truffles
Along with the pavlova came these utterly dense, rich truffles, which were chocolate-y for sure, but also had this sort of piquancy to them.

I was saddened to hear about Féau leaving Wally's, and I was similarly bummed to hear about the closure of Church & State. However, with Féau in command here now, it looks like we have a happy ending after all. Church & State has been a longtime favorite in the Arts District, and fortunately, the new team has kept intact most of what made the place great to begin with. However, they've also freshened up the menu a bit, making it a bit more "LA" so to speak, but while keeping its French roots. Hopefully this updated approach will resonate with diners. That being said, I still yearn for the type of cooking the Chef was doing back in the Royce days, and it looks like I may be in luck. Apparently, new ownership has plans to place a special round table (6-8 seats) up in the front of the dining room, next to the kitchen. This'll be used for special dinners where Féau can serve more "gastronomic" cuisine; I'll be looking forward to it.

Bon Temps (Los Angeles, CA)

$
0
0
Bon Temps Restaurant
712 S Santa Fe Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.784.0044
www.bontempsla.com
Fri 08/02/2019, 07:50p-10:55p




Bon Temps Exterior

The most exciting Arts District debut of the year so far has to be Bon Temps ("good time"), which grand-opened on June 7th. The place comes to us from veteran Pastry Chef/Owner Lincoln Carson, in concert with prolific restaurant group Sprout LA, and is an all-day eatery describing itself as a "modern French brasserie with industrial roots," whatever that means.

About the Chef: Lincoln Bruce Carson was born in March 1969, in Beirut of all places, due to his parents' involvement in Middle East diplomacy. From Beirut, he moved to Saudi Arabia (Jeddah and Dhahran), then to the Northeastern United States, then back to Riyadh, then finally back to Boston, where he completed high school. Following graduation, he didn't expect to pursue a career in the kitchen, but got sucked in after visiting a couple friends who'd decided to go to culinary school. He eventually enrolled at Johnson & Wales University in 1988, figuring that it'd be a good way for him to explore his creative inclinations. Carson studied pastry arts, and during his time there, also worked at a bakery.

He graduated in 1990 and found employment at a seasonal hotel in Watch Hill, RI, but soon decided to move to New York City. His first job in NYC was that of a pastry cook at Le Pactole, where he stayed until transferring to Le Bernardin in 1991 (before Eric Ripert owned the place). There, he worked under the legendary François Payard, who mentored him for about two years. In 1992, Carson got his first Pastry Chef role at Peacock Alley at The Waldorf-Astoria, which was under the control of Laurent Manrique at the time. The following year, he became Pastry Chef at Restaurant Luxe, where he mentored Johnny Iuzzini and introduced him to Payard, who eventually got him a job at Daniel. 1994 saw Carson start working with Tom Valenti at Cascabel, which is where he really began to come into his own stylistically.

In May 1996, he took on the Executive Pastry Chef post at La Côte Basque, one of NY's longest standing temples of French cuisine. Following, he moved to California, and in August 1997, began cooking at The Highlands Inn in Carmel. April 1999 had him in Las Vegas, at Julian Serrano's Picasso at Bellagio. After that gig, he moved back to New York in August 2000 to take on the Executive Pastry Chef role at Todd English's Olives at the W Hotel in Union Square. That lasted until April 2003, when he became Corporate Pastry Chef for the BR Guest restaurant group. Carson returned to Vegas in February 2005 to open Daniel Boulud Brasserie at Wynn, and during his tenure there, he was introduced to none other than Michael Mina.

He began serving as Corporate Pastry Chef for the Mina Group in September 2006, and helped open StripSteak at Mandalay Bay almost immediately after. He spent nearly eight years in this position, and during that time, opened 18 restaurants, but decamped in April 2014. The Chef landed in LA, Venice specifically, at Superba Food + Bread, which was under the watch of Jason Travi. He left, however, in February 2015 to start his own consulting company, working with clients such as his former employer Mina Group, The Rose Venice, Marcel Vigneron's Wolf, Spartina, and Valrhona. Rumors of Bon Temps began trickling out in the spring of 2018, and the restaurant debuted about a year later. Meanwhile, handling much of the day-to-day for Carson here is Executive Chef Anthony DiRienzo, a Chicago native who also spent time with Mina Group.

Bon Temps Interior
Bon Temps Interior
Bon Temps takes over the Downtown digs of a former Heinz facility, and which was previously home to restaurants Petty Cash and Fifty Seven. It was redone by Klein Agency and NCA Studio, and the goal was to create a sort of balance between hard (e.g. sheet metal and white Carrara marble) and soft (e.g. Douglas fir and brown leather).

Bon Temps MenuBon Temps Cocktail & Beer ListBon Temps Wines by the Glass ListBon Temps Wine List: Sparkling, White, Rosé and OrangeBon Temps Wine List: Rosé and Orange, Red, Magnums
Divvied up into straightforward sections, the menu is tight, which I appreciate, and has a brasserie-ish, Cal-French feel to it, which I'm sure was intended. And though Bon Temps launched as a dinner-only destination, morning pastries and casual lunch items (i.e. sandwiches, tartines, and the like) are now offered as well. On the beverage side of things, we opted for an array of cocktails from Michael Lay, who'd just left Hotel Figueroa at the start of the year and who was previously at Lono, Broken Spanish, and Faith & Flower. If that's not your jam, you also get a handful of beers and a pretty interesting wine list from Wine Director Krystal Kleeman (The Hearth & Hound). Click for larger versions.

Galapagos
Galapagos [$15.00] | Pisco, Lime, Grapefruit, Makrut Lime Leaf, Lemongrass & Black Peppercorn
We ended up getting most of the cocktails, and our first featured refreshing, yet at the same time acerbic notes of citrus on the nose, while its palate was focused on the lemongrass, with the pisco making itself known on the back end. Pretty tasty, though I would've liked more from the peppercorn.

Steak Tartare
Steak Tartare [$18.00] | prime beef, dijonnaise, egg yolk
The tartar was a winner. I loved the creamy, zingy nature of the Dijonnaise and how that meshed with the meat, while the yolk contributed a noticeable heft to the dish, one that was lightened up a tad by the airiness of those rice crisps.

Heirloom Tomato
Heirloom Tomato [$16.00] | plums, black olive, green almond
This next course managed to be a surprise hit thanks to its wonderful back-and-forth between the savory depth of the tomato and the zestiness of those sprouts. Way better than expected.

Vieux Carre
Vieux Carre [$16.00] | Rye, Cognac, Benedictine, Italian Vermouth
Bon Temps' interpretation of this classic cocktail largely delivered. Though it didn't offer up much in terms of aroma, it had a masterful mix of bitterness, spice, and herb on the tongue, and was finished by an almost mala-esque lingering sensation that I quite enjoyed.

Spanish Mackerel
Spanish Mackerel [$16.00] | green garlic pesto, eggplant, marinated tomato
Mackerel came out juicy, firm, and flaky, its considerable brine evened out swimmingly by the acid from the tomatoes as well as a superb brightness from that pesto.

Dungeness Crab
Dungeness Crab [$24.00] | pain de mie, avocado, mustard beurre blanc
The sweet salinity of Dungeness was beautifully conveyed here, and married well with avocado, all while the beurre blanc offered up a creamy-yet-tangy contrast.

Kumquat Caipirinha
Kumquat Caipirinha [$14.00] | Avua Prata Cachaca, Fresh Kumquat, Lime, Tamarind
A kumquat-enhanced caipirinha was easy and refreshing, as expected, but also showed off much-more-pronounced-than-usual citrus notes and a smidge of nuttiness.

Delta Asparagus
Delta Asparagus [$16.00] | sweetbreads, brown butter, black trumpet
Crisp, bitter stalks of asparagus served as a great foil to the deliciously savory, peppery nature of those sweetbreads.

English Pea Ravioli
English Pea Ravioli [$18.00] | mushrooms, pecorino, black truffle
The ravioli did a wonderful job marrying the sweetness of the pea with the punchy taste of ramps, all while the mushrooms and truffles imparted an earthy funk to it all. A table favorite.

Casablanca
Casablanca [$15.00] | Cognac, Curacao, Lemon, Hibiscus, Clementine, Rose Hips, Faba
This next cocktail conveyed a bevy of fruity, floral, nearly candied flavors, all set against a counterbalancing, citrus-led sharpness.

Crispy Octopus
Crispy Octopus [$22.00] | warm potatoes, fava, vadouvan curry
A lone leg was a delight texturally, its crisp crust giving way to soft, slightly chewy insides. Taste-wise, it was all about pairing savoriness and spice with the inherent salinity of the octo, while at the same time, the favas and potatoes worked great for contrast.

Unleavened Bread
At this point we were served a complimentary loaf of housemade unleavened bread, with leeks, olive oil, and fleur de sel. Flavors here veered in a seaweed-y, citrus-y direction, though unfortunately the bread was a touch drier than I'd prefer.

Le Smoke
Le Smoke [$15.00] | Mezcal, Elderflower, Passion Fruit, Lime, Yuzu Kosho
This cocktail had an aroma brimming with pineapple-fueled sweetness, while its taste was more contemplative, blending tartness and astringency with a light heat and smoke.

Black Truffle Risotto
Black Truffle Risotto [$35.00] | abalone, bone marrow, preserved truffle
Given my penchant for risotto, this was a must-try for me. The rice itself was pretty textbook, being of the right texture and displaying a creaminess that transitioned nicely to the musk of black truffle--delish. The abalone, on the other hand, wasn't really necessary and was on the verge of being distracting.

Roasted Carrots
Roasted Carrots [$9.00] | buttermilk blue cheese, prunes, tarragon
Carrots were well-roasted, and had their natural sweetness smartly matched to the funk of the cheese here, while the pumpkin seeds offered up a welcomed nuttiness and crunch. I got lots of anise from the tarragon, too.

Normandy Tonique
Normandy Tonique [$14.00] | Calvados, Bianco Aperitif, Tonic
The evening's first long cocktail did a good job blending the apple notes from the calvados with the bitter, botanical nature of the Apéritif.

Black Bass
Black Bass [$36.00] | shellfish, fennel, saffron
This somewhat bouillabaisse-ish dish featured a beautifully-prepared cut of bass that I found eminently pleasurable just by itself. Further potency was imparted by the additional shellfish and aromatics, and I definitely appreciated the tempering effect of the potato.

Butter Ball Potatoes
Butter Ball Potatoes [$10.00] | buttermilk, bottarga, chive
Already buttery potatoes were taken up a notch thanks to the creaminess of that buttermilk dressing, all while the cured roe added a kick of salt to the fray. Nice herbiness from the chives for contrast, too.

Du Paradis
Du Paradis [$14.00] | Bimini Barrel Gin, Lillet, Lemon, Pineapple, Absinthe, Faba
There was a delightful creaminess, a frothiness to this next cocktail, one that moderated the omnipresent gin botanicals as well as the tartness of the fruit. Anise-y notes, meanwhile, made themselves known on the mid-palate.

Maine Scallops
Maine Scallops [$34.00] | morels, ramps, peas
Scallops were well-cooked and well-caramelized, their oceany flavors working hand-in-hand with the brightness of peas and green beans while the mushrooms imparted an earthy accent to the dish.

Broccoli
Broccoli [$9.00] | everything crunch, pickled pepper vinaigrette
The so-called "everything crunch" was pretty genius, contributing copious amounts of texture and seasoning that really paired perfectly with the bitterness of the broccoli. Meanwhile, the vinaigrette, along with a creamy, luscious element in the dish helped bind everything together.

Le Lapin
Le Lapin [$14.00] | Pimms, Carrot, Ginger & Parsnip Shrub, Seltzer
A rabbit-themed cocktail displayed loads of carrot-y sweetness, punctuated by hits of spicy ginger. This was a fun one.

Lamb Ribeye
Lamb Ribeye [$42.00] | summer squash, socca, aleppo pepper
Roundels of lamb were impeccably seasoned and super flavorful, yet made even better by the slight heat of Aleppo pepper. Also a hit was the lamb-enhanced socca, which showed off a considerable depth and was just plain cozy.

Pole Beans
Pole Beans [$12.00] | mojama, sungolds, basil
Pole beans arrived bright and crunchy, augmented by the tartness of tomato and the savory, hammy nature of the cured tuna.

Monaco Sunset
Monaco Sunset [$15.00] | Calvados, Aperitivo, Blood Orange, Strawberry, Pink Peppercorn
Our penultimate cocktail displayed appealing flavors of strawberry and citrus, cut by a touch of bitterness and acerbicness from the booze, while the finish was filled with the advertised peppercorn.

Ahi Tuna
Ahi Tuna [$20.00] | avocado, Weiser melon, black lime
A misstep in the service tonight resulted in us receiving our tuna appetizer at the end of the meal, though the restaurant did comp the dish as a result of the error. In any case, the ahi ate clean and lean, and actually meshed surprisingly well with the sweet, refreshing nature of the melon, while I got a slight heat on the back end that I certainly didn't mind.

S'mores
S'mores [$13.00] | milk chocolate, campfire marshmallows, oat gelato
Time for dessert. Our first definitely hit the mark with its rich, robust, yet refined flavors of chocolate, augmented by a smidgen of smoke and the sheer deliciousness of that ice cream. Great textural component from the "pop rocks" here, too.

Strawberry & Rhubarb Spritz
Strawberry & Rhubarb Spritz [$16.00] | Aperol, Fresh Strawberry, Rhubarb, Tonic, Sparkling Wine
Our final cocktail was easy and breezy, showcasing refreshing fruit flavors cut by a touch of herb and earth.

Gateaux Philadelphia
Gateaux Philadelphia [$12.00] | tahitian vanilla, hibiscus, strawberries
This cheesecake-esque dessert featured an airy, somewhat savory, somewhat sweet top layer, set atop a superbly crumbly, salty crust. At the same time, the various shards of berry and hibiscus on top gave the dish some beautifully-placed hits of fruity tartness. Yum.

St. Honore
St. Honore [$23.00] | pecan mousseline, chantilly, caramel; shareable for 2-4
We ended with my favorite of the desserts, and one of the best desserts I've had all year. This reimagined St. Honoré featured delicate layers of puff pastry at the bottom, which formed a perfect base for that utterly gratifying, sweet-nutty pecan mousseline. If that wasn't enough, cream puffs added further interest to the dish, while disks of caramel provided just the right amount of crunch, all while the cream help bind it all together. A must try.

Sweet Lady Jane Almond Roca Cake
Given that this was a birthday dinner, we also brought along a Sweet Lady Jane Almond Roca Cake. Comprised of dark chocolate cake, chocolate ganache, whipped cream, and caramelized almonds, it was quite tasty, though it didn't particularly recall its namesake toffee treat.

Although we had a few service issues tonight (the tuna as mentioned above, as well as a couple disappearing drink orders), our meal at Bon Temps was still a success. This was mostly due to the food, which was by and large strong across the board and pretty tough to find fault with. Carson's cooking has this palpable precision to it--I'm assuming stemming from his years spent in pastry--resulting in flavors that demonstrate a remarkable clarity and contrast. This is a worthwhile take on a modern brasserie, and I do sincerely hope that this place can stick around longer than its predecessors.

Chicas Tacos (Los Angeles, CA)

$
0
0
Chicas Tacos Restaurant
728 S Olive St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.896.0373
www.chicastacos.com
Wed 08/07/2019, 08:40p-10:30p




Chicas Tacos Exterior

I'd been mildly curious about trying Chicas ever since it opened at the end of May 2016, and recently had a reason to check it out after a failed attempt to dine at Alex Carrasco's new Bee Taqueria (the place was closed due to the unexpected early birth of the Chef's son on August 5th). Chicas is the work of partners Chris Blanchard, Jon Blanchard, and Nico Rusconi (the latter two of BLVD Hospitality), and the idea for Chicas supposedly came when the Blanchard brothers visited Valle de Guadalupe decades ago. In fact, the name "Chicas" was apparently the nickname of a woman (Carmela) that the two met down in Mexico. In any case, on the food side of things, the menu is the work of Eduardo Ruiz, Director of F&B for BLVD.

If you recall, Eddie Ruiz first made a name for himself when he opened Corazon y Miel in Bell back in March 2013. The place was largely well-received by Angelenos, and even got him a "Rising Star Chef" semifinalist nod from James Beard. The success of CyM allowed for the debut of his sausage spot Picnik and its concomitant bar Punch in Pasadena in 2014. However, those two establishments closed at the start of 2015 due to lease issues, and in January 2016, Ruiz ended up joining the team at BLVD. This was followed by the Chef taking on an ownership position in Long Beach's Public Beer Wine Shop in April that year. Corazon y Miel, meanwhile, shuttered in June 2016, while Public closed in September 2018 (replaced by The 4th Horseman).

Chicas Tacos Outdoor Seating Area
Chicas occupies a 700 square-foot building that previously held a series of unremarkable eateries: Medardo's Pinoy Fudtrip, Mama's Asian Cuisine, Korean BBQ & Tofu House, and Ichibang Teriyaki (a.k.a. Number One Teriyaki). However, most of the seating is outside: on the sidewalk, next to the structure (standing only), and on an artificially-turfed section of the parking lot next to a travel trailer (which is used for storage).

Chicas Tacos Menu: Tacos, Not TacosChicas Tacos Menu: Salads, Sides, Beverages
As for the menu, you get a pretty straightforward selection of tacos, joined by a number of related, but non-taco dishes. Click for larger versions.

Steak Taco
Steak Taco [$4.25] | Flour tortilla, peppered steak, queso, crispy potato, morita salsa, radish, scallion, cilantro
We began with Chicas' take on the classic asada, which turned out reasonably well. The queso imparted a creaminess to the taco that was unexpected, though not necessarily unwelcomed, but the key for me was the potato, which served as a contributor of both heartiness and crunch. Nice zing from the combo of scallion and cilantro, too.

Fish Taco
Fish Taco [$4.25] | Corn tortilla, beer battered fish, caesar salad, morita salsa, croutons, parmesan
The fish was on point texturally, coming out crispy on the outside, with soft, flaky, juicy flesh, while its flavors were pretty mild, taking well to the slight smoke of the morita. The Caesar salad on top made for a creamy, crunchy pairing that I certainly didn't mind, though I think I prefer the more traditional accoutrements of cabbage, pico, and dressing.

2016 Jester King Colour Five
To drink, we had a bottle of 2016 Jester King Colour Five, a barrel-aged sour ale refermented with Texas blueberries. It smelled tart and fruity as expected, with some yeasty, spicy, earthy notes in the background. Taste-wise, think more acidic fruit, but joined by tannic, leathery, drying qualities all leading to a surprisingly short finish. I will note that the beer got noticeably jammier as it warmed.

Shredded Beef Taco
Shredded Beef Taco [$4.25] | Flour tortilla, shredded beef barbacoa, radish, scallion, cilantro
Our next taco featured tender, juicy strands of beef imbued with a sweet 'n' spicy flavor profile. The veggies on top worked for contrast, and the tortilla meshed the best here out of all the tacos.

Chicken Taco
Chicken Taco [$3.95] | Corn tortilla, yogurt marinated chicken, cherry tomato pico de gallo, morita salsa, queso fresco, cilantro
The chicken was probably the most benign of the tacos we tried. I appreciated the light smoke on the bird, which functioned well enough with the duo of salsas here, and the additional oomph provided by the cheese made sense, too.

2017 Side Project SpontanFermier
Next to imbibe was the 2017 Side Project SpontanFermier, a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay barrel-fermented, seven-month oak barrel-aged Missouri spelt saison and Mikkeller lambic. The nose on the beer was surprisingly muted, but I did detect some plum, citrus, and yeasty funk. In terms of taste, it was more assertive, giving up tart, citric, barnyard-ish flavors alongside strong notes of stone fruit and vinegar.

Pork Taco
Pork Taco [$4.25] | Flour tortilla, chile verde braised pork, caramelized onion, chicharron, cilantro
Soft shards of pork were fairly mild, with just a touch of piquancy from the application of chile verde. The most prominent thing here was actually the onion, which was definitely on the sweeter side. My favorite part? The crunch imparted by the pork rinds.

Cauliflower & Mushroom Taco
Cauliflower & Mushroom Taco [$3.95] | Corn tortilla, chorizo spiced cauliflower, mushroom, avocado cashew crema, queso fresco, cilantro
I'm generally a big fan of both cauliflower and mushroom, but this managed to be my least favorite of the tacos. The issue for me was that the cauliflower, while being well-textured, had this acerbic sort of flavor profile that I found off-putting. The cheese did help temper things, and I liked the smokiness of the 'shrooms, but these weren't enough to save the taco.

2019 Modern Times Barrel-Aged Dragon Mask: Chocolate Churro Edition
Our final beer was the 2019 Modern Times Barrel-Aged Dragon Mask: Chocolate Churro Edition, an imperial stout aged in bourbon barrels with cinnamon, cocoa nibs, salt, and vanilla, created in collaboration with Casita Cerveceria. Loads of cinnamon, dark fruit, oak, and chocolate on the nose. The palate, meanwhile, was smooth and creamy, giving up more lingering cinnamon, along with cocoa, figs, bourbon, brown sugar, oak, and very palpable flavors of banana, somewhat surprisingly.

Nachos + Steak
Nachos + Steak [$8.00 + $5.00] | Three cheese blend, queso, morita salsa, scallion, radish, cilantro, chile blanco
I'm typically a big proponent of nachos, but this one fell short. The most prominent element here was very clearly the cheese, which had an unexpectedly strong funk to it. It was a bit domineering, but did marry well enough with the meat. However, overall the flavors didn't meld as much as I was hoping for, and things were just a bit too one-note. I wanted more brightness, more acidity, more spice.

Hawaiian Host Hello Kitty Surfer Milk Chocolate Covered Macadamia Nuts
There's no dessert served here as far as I know, so instead we enjoyed these Hawaiian Host Hello Kitty Surfer Milk Chocolate Covered Macadamia Nuts.

So most of the items we tried were tasty enough and generally enjoyable, though I felt that the kitchen should've been more aggressive with seasoning. I was really hoping for some bolder, gutsier flavors, but maybe I'm in the minority, as the status quo seems to be working out for Chicas: the team already has two stalls at Banc of California Stadium apparently, and a new location in Culver City is set to debut this year.

Journeyman's Food + Drink (Fullerton, CA)

$
0
0
Journeyman's Food & Drink at The Hotel Fullerton
1500 Raymond Ave, Fullerton, CA 92831
714.635.9025
www.journeymanfood.com
Sat 08/10/2019, 08:10p-11:30p




Journeyman's Food & Drink Exterior

One of OC's most interesting new restaurants is situated in an odd location, abutting the 91 Freeway and adjacent to abandoned railroad tracks. Journeyman's resides in Charles Yang's Hotel Fullerton, which, you might recall, was previously a Crowne Plaza and a Four Points by Sheraton before that. I heard about Chef Zach Geerson's experiments in progressive American cuisine here earlier this year, and made it a point to put it on my list to visit.

About the Chef: Zachary Geerson was born in November 1990 and grew up in Fort Myers, Florida. He graduated from Mariner High School in Cape Coral in 2008, and soon realized that he wanted to pursue a culinary career. In January 2009, he became a dishwasher at Harold Balink's Cru in Fort Myers, and subsequently worked his way up to the position of sous before leaving in March 2012. His next stop was the Culinary Institute of America, and during his tenure there, he cooked at the nearby Brasserie 292 in Poughkeepsie. Following graduation in June 2013, Geerson took on a "Manager in Training" position under mentor Gianni Scappin at the CIA's on-campus restaurant, Caterina de Medici. This lasted until July 2014, when he began cooking on the line at Scappin's Italian eatery Cucina, located in Woodstock. In October that year, he relocated to Miami Beach to become Executive Chef at the Pelican Hotel, but the gig lasted for about a week, as he quickly realized that the job wasn't what he was expecting.

Geerson then moved to Southern California in November to become Pastry Chef at Jorge Cueva's new Tempo Urban Kitchen in Brea. He was subsequently promoted to EC in less than two months, but would end up leaving the restaurant a year later. Through a connection from a colleague who worked at Tempo, he landed at The Hotel Fullerton as Exec Chef, and four months later, was promoted to F&B Director for the whole property. Here, he took over the existing hotel eatery Griswold Bar & Grill and turned it into Citizen Kitchen in 2016. In July 2017, Geerson got married to girlfriend Olivia Prachanpheng ("Prach" for short), who was actually the Pastry Chef at The Rose Venice. March 2018, meanwhile, saw the debut of Journeyman's, which was largely well-received. In fact, the place was deemed one of Gayot's "Best New Restaurants in the US," while Orange Coast chose it as "Restaurant of the Year" just this April.

Journeyman's Food & Drink Interior
Journeyman's occupies a part of the hotel that previous held a Chinese place called Red Restaurant. It's a fairly large room, with the most widely-spaced tables I've even encountered.

Journeyman's Food & Drink MenuJourneyman's Food & Drink Menu Description
As far as the menu goes, you get a choice of a four-course prix fixe at $75 (+$50 for pairing), or a six-course tasting at $115 (+$75 for pairing). Click for larger versions.

Journeyman's Food & Drink Cocktail List: Aperitif, 'Shaken Not Stirred'Journeyman's Food & Drink Cocktail List: Spirit Forward, Old Fashioned'sJourneyman's Food & Drink Beer ListJourneyman's Food & Drink Mocktail ListJourneyman's Food & Drink Wine List: Sparkling Wines, White Wine & Rosé

Journeyman's Food & Drink Wine List: White Wine & RoséJourneyman's Food & Drink Wine List: Red WineJourneyman's Food & Drink Wine List: Red WineJourneyman's Food & Drink Sake, Dessert Wine, and Cordial/Digestif ListJourneyman's Food & Drink Premium Spirits ListJourneyman's Food & Drink Water, Coffee, and Tea/Tisane List
Beverage-wise, this draw for me is clearly the cocktail list, which is the work of Bar Director Steven Hayden, who's been with Geerson over the past few years, both here and at Citizen Kitchen. The cocktail selection is no doubt one of the most appealing I've seen in Orange County, but if that's not your thing, you'll also find a reasonable array of beer and wine. Click for larger versions.

Crimson Criminal
Crimson Criminal [$15.00] | Cana Brava Rum, Golden Moon Genepi, Aperol, Clear Creek Loganberry, Fernet Branca, Grapefruit
We made our way through a number of Hayden's cocktails this evening, and our first was a promising start. It showcased plenty of fruit up front, while essential oil-like notes came in later, along with the bittersweetness of Aperol, all while the back end went in a minty, herby direction thanks to the fernet.

Pickled Fig
Our amuse bouche course comprised pickled figs, with burnt fig leaf oil, fresh thyme, and some sort of powdered substance that I unfortunately don't recall. I got the sweetness of the fruit initially, but then came enough savoriness and smoke to keep things interesting.

Rosemary-Thyme Bread and Basil-Mint-Parsley Butter
The housemade rosemary-thyme bread had a wonderfully crisp crust, and you could definitely taste plenty of the advertised herbs in the crumb. As for the compound butter, it was also produced in-house, and was delightfully light and bright thanks to its incorporation of basil, mint, and parsley.

Kilt-Ing Me Softly
Kilt-Ing Me Softly [$15.00] | Ardbeg 10yr Islay Scotch, St. George Absinthe, Mint, Lemon, Egg White
This next cocktail showed off plenty of peat from the whisky, which was cut by citrusy, herbaceous notes and the creaminess of egg. The finish, meanwhile, conveyed the anise-y taste of absinthe along with nuts and more smoke.

Heirloom Tomato & Herbs
Heirloom Tomato & Herbs (Aspic Showing)
1a: Heirloom Tomato & Herbs
Our first proper course was composed of a lace tuile topped with house-cultured crème fraîche, flowers, herbs, mint, and parsley, sitting atop a jiggly aspic of clarified tomato juice and Earl Grey, surrounded by a "snow" of tapioca starch and tomato oil roasted with rosemary, dill, and bay leaf. The star of the show for me was actually that aspic (though there was a bit too much of it), which did a nice job conveying the essence of tomato, but in an unconventional fashion. I also appreciated the crunch of the tuile, and how that meshed with the herby, floral nature of its various toppings.

Cucumber, Kinome, Lime
1b: Cucumber, Kinome, Lime
This was a multifaceted presentation of cucumber, one featuring cucumber ribbons compressed with lime leaf vinaigrette for a quick pickling, cucumber seed dressing, and cucumber rind "dust," along with finger lime vesicles on top and sansho leaves. I got plenty of acidity, sourness, and crunch here, with a touch of tingling pepper, while there was this lush, creamy element (unfortunately I forgot what it was) that worked nicely as a moderating force.

Stockholm Syndrome
Stockholm Syndrome [$17.00] | Hayman's Old Tom Gin, Cocoa Nib Infused Cocchi Americano, House Strawberry Liqueur, Cocoa
Next was one of my favorite cocktails of the bunch. It smelled of fruit punch interestingly enough, while the taste went from strawberry to smoke to herbs, making for a fascinating interplay of flavors all ending with lingering notes of smoky cacao.

Plum, Fresh Cheese, Rose, Almond
1c: Plum, Fresh Cheese, Rose, Almond
Black plums were poached in a rose gastrique, then combined with a housemade feta-like cheese (rested in fermented peach brine), toasted almonds, pickled/fresh/salted rose petals, and a rose water-infused almond milk. The end effect was a combination of super floral, super fruity flavors, evened out by the cheese while the almonds served as a nutty contrast.

'Avocado in a Mole of Itself'
2a: "Avocado in a Mole of Itself"
Here came what was no doubt one of the most ambitious avocado dishes I'd ever seen. What we had here was a base of torched avocado cubes, garlic, and onion, with a sauce of seared avocado pits blended with guajillo and cumin, covered by a granita of avocado-eucalyptus sorbet and a layer of sliced avocado with EVOO and coriander flower. It tasted like a more concentrated, more complex version of avocado, largely thanks to the "mole," and I especially appreciated the growing herbal notes from the eucalyptus.

Sweet Breads, Pickled Morel, Ramps, & Baby Corn
2b: Sweet Breads, Pickled Morel, Ramps, & Baby Corn
Veal thymus was poached in buttermilk, breaded slightly and seared, then set in a pickled morel beurre blanc with sautéed morels, while on top was pickled green garlic, poached baby corn, and julienned green onion. The sweetbread itself ate rich and savory and delicious, augmented by the woodsiness of those mushrooms. To offset that, we had the sharp pungency of the alliums, not to mention the soft, mild, crunchy nature of the corn.

To Whom It May Concern
To Whom It May Concern [$16.00] | Suntory Toki Japanese Whiskey, Golden Moon Dry Curacao, Chartreuse, Luxardo, Lemon
This brightly-hued cocktail featured somewhat bracing notes of citrus, commingled with sweet, chocolate-y nuances and plenty of sourness, all while the finish went in a decidedly nutty direction.

Smoked Alligator, Elderflower, Wild Purslane
2c: Smoked Alligator, Elderflower, Wild Purslane
Florida gator came brined, smoked, and braised, then chilled with a pickled elderflower vinaigrette. It was then wrapped in an alligator stock "veil," and garnished with wild purslane (from the restaurant's on-site herb garden) and pickled elderflower. The meat was firm and flaky, and had burnt, briny flavors that reminded me of smoked fish. The tartness of the purslane and elderflower, meanwhile, provided a necessary counterpoint.

Branzino 'sans Bearnaise,'& Asparagus
3a: Branzino "sans Bearnaise,"& Asparagus
Our first main course was steamed Mediterranean sea bass, accompanied by grated one week-cured egg yolk, espelette, fennel pollen, tarragon, crispy shallots, a jam of sous vide'd egg yolk emulsified with green garlic vinegar, asparagus ribbons, asparagus purée, and peeled lemon juice- and olive oil-blanched asparagus. The dish was then finished tableside with a fumé made from the reduced stock of the branzino, cooked down with shallots, tarragon, and peppercorn. I found the fish well-seasoned, yet subtle, working swimmingly as a base for the multitude of other elements on the plate. It all came together pretty well, giving up hints of Béarnaise without the actual heft and potency of the classic sauce.

See No Evil
See No Evil [$22.00] | Monkey 47 Gin, Fortify Amaro, Lavender, Cucumber
This rather pricey cocktail had an aroma that was not unlike that of a hard lemonade, curiously enough. Its taste, though, was more assertive, giving us boatloads of gin botanicals and a boozy burn, with additional complexity courtesy of the amaro, while the finish displayed lots of lingering lavender.

Herb Crusted Anderson Lamb, Courgette, White Lamb Jus
3b: Herb Crusted Anderson Lamb, Courgette, White Lamb Jus
Cascade Creek lamb rack was coated in mint, basil, and cilantro, then cooked sous vide, then rolled in panko with those same herbs, then finished in the oven to develop a nice crust. Accoutrements included zucchini, squash blossoms sautéed in housemade lamb bacon fat, squash blossom chips, white lamb jus, and white lamb jus-infused yogurt. The lamb was spot on, coming out at the perfect temperature, while flavors balanced the inherent game of the meat with the brightness of the herbs. At the same time, the veggies imparted a further levity to the dish that was very much appreciated.

Mary's Organic Duck, Black Berry, Parmigiano
3c: Mary's Organic Duck, Black Berry, Parmigiano
In our final savory, ten day in-house dry-aged duck breast was seared in cast iron, then coated with a layer of dehydrated duck and fennel flower. Also on the plate was a blackberry-infused, duck leg confit ragout-stuffed raviolo with Thai basil, espelette, and black berry jam; the pasta when then topped with the same jam, as well as Parmesan foam and parsley. The finishing sauce, meanwhile, was a blackberry duck gastrique, made with reduced duck stock and blackberry-infused vinegar. I went for the breast first, and found a bevy of savory, sweet, and smoky flavors, all intertwined with the palpably "ducky" nature of the meat. The raviolo, though, was even better, playing the heft of the bird against a very delicate presentation of cheese and the bright fragrance of parsley.

Strawberry, Black Sesame, Plumeria
4a: Strawberry, Black Sesame, Plumeria
Time for desserts, which are the work of Geerson himself. This was a slice of strawberry gelée with fresh strawberry, macerated strawberry, black sesame meringue chips, black sesame brittle, and plumeria petals, all dressed tableside with a strawberry consommé. I definitely got the strawberry here--in multiple tastes and textures--but what I found interesting was that there was this almost ham-like savoriness pervading the dish, which wasn't necessarily a bad thing. The meringue and brittle, meanwhile, offered up a much needed contrasting element, and overall the dish was a bit reminiscent of tanghulu (Chinese candied hawthorn).

Deuces Wild
Deuces Wild [$17.00] | Laphroaig 10yr Scotch, Ilegal Mezcal Joven, St. George Nola Coffee Liqueur, Aromatic
Our final cocktail was certainly on the campfire-y side, showing off plenty of peaty smoke from the combination of whisky and mezcal. Fortunately, this was balanced by notes of chocolate and roasty coffee, and overall it worked pretty well with dessert.

Lemon & Green Tea
4b: Lemon & Green Tea
Next was a puck of lemon curd, topped with matcha-infused whipped cream, dehydrated candied lemon chip, and jasmine flowers, surrounded by crumbled green tea cookies. The focal point here was clearly the sourness and acidity of the curd. It was fairly intense, so the calming, bittersweet notes of the matcha were crucial, especially those crumbles.

Milk Chocolate, Cherry, Black Garlic
4c: Milk Chocolate, Cherry, Black Garlic
Last up was a black garlic and milk chocolate gelato, atop an almond financier, encircled by roasted cherries and cherry gel, then topped with puffed rice and mint flowers. The hero here was that ice cream. I don't think I'd ever had chocolate and garlic combined, and it made for an interesting interplay that was sort of profound. At the same time, the cherries provided a moderating sweetness, and I loved the crunch of the rice, not to mention the crisp nature of that financier.

'Not Limoncello
This was "Not Limoncello" [$18], but instead a sort of housemade "yuzucello." I found it pretty bracing, with sweet citrusy notes up front leading to a bevy of herbaceous, boozy elements that lingered long and strong. A fitting digestif.

Branca Menta Meringues
Mignardise duties were handled by these Fernet Branca meringues, which really did recall the minty nature of the liqueur.

Strawberry Liqueur & Nectarine Cordial Gelatos (with Bottles)
Strawberry Liqueur & Nectarine Cordial Gelatos
With our meal completed, Hayden called us over to the bar for a free serving of gelato, created with his housemade liqueurs infused with strawberry and nectarine (the fruit was from his backyard). On the left was the strawberry ice cream, which had a nice booziness to it softened by the presence of white chocolate. The nectarine version, meanwhile, showed off the nature of the stone fruit in vibrant fashion, accented by nutty bits of pistachio. Also present here were zesty basil buds, also from Hayden's home, as well as icy spherifications of strawberry liqueur gelatin.

Journeyman's Food & Drink Thank You CardJourneyman's Food & Drink Thank You Card (Signatures)
At the end of the night, we were provided a thank you card signed by the whole staff, which was a nice touch. Click for larger versions.

Journeyman's was certainly one of the more intriguing meals I've enjoyed in Orange County. Geerson's pushing things culinarily, which I appreciate, even though not everything necessarily hits it out of the park. There are definitely flavor combinations and preparations and techniques that you just don't see much around these parts, resulting in plates that are fun, whimsical, modern-yet-familiar, and sometimes a bit contemplative. I also have to give credit to Hayden and his cocktail program; it's one of the best in OC, and is worth checking out just by itself.

Bee Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA)

$
0
0
Bee Taquería
5754 W Adams Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016
323.452.9575
www.beetaqueria.com
Thu 08/15/2019, 08:00p-12:00a




Bee Taqueria

If you recall, I actually tried to visit Alex Carrasco's Bee Taqueria at the start of August, but was thwarted due to the unexpected early birth of the Chef's son, which pushed out the restaurant's grand opening from the 6th to the 8th (though the place actually soft-opened at the end of July). Named after a beehive that was discovered while remodeling, the West Adams modern taco spot is the Chef's first solo project. Located in the old JNJ Burger & BBQ, the place seems liked it could be SoCal's "next great taqueria," so I was eager to pay it a visit.

About the Chef: Alejandro Carrasco was born in 1985 in Mexico City, the youngest of five children (he had two brothers and two sisters). He grew up in a poor family, and didn't have a father present, while his mom would work various jobs to make ends meet (e.g. selling books and yogurt drinks, or renting out the patio of the family home to a local body shop). He eventually got interested in skateboarding after meeting a skater from Canada, who later gifted him a free skateboard. After extensive practice, he got quite good at the sport, and at the age of 15, decided that he wanted to skate for a living. However, around this time, Carrasco also began helping his mother around the house: cleaning, doing the laundry, and cooking; he thus became interested in food almost inadvertently. He started out doing simple dishes, but eventually expanded his repertoire thanks to help from his grandmother and other relatives.

A wealthy cousin of his studied at Le Cordon Bleu Mexico, which got the budding cook curious about culinary school. Around this time, Carrasco seriously injured his leg while skating, and realizing that he could never skate professionally, decided that he wanted to go to Le Cordon Bleu and pursue a career in cooking. Thus, he made it a point to finish high school, and had to enroll at a Catholic school given that he was previously such a hooligan, having gotten involved in fighting and graffiti. His brother actually paid for this schooling, and this is when he really committed to bettering himself. Following graduation though, Carrasco realized that culinary school was still far too expensive, and subsequently started taking English classes in preparation for a move to the United States.

He thus came Stateside in 2001 along with his brother, who worked in radio in the LA area. The two lived in Torrance, and the Chef's initial goal was to make some money, go to culinary school, buy a car, and return to Mexico. It turned out that his brother knew a manager at California Pizza Kitchen, and was able to get Carrasco a busser job at the newly-opened CPK at Rolling Hills Plaza. However, he quickly realized that you don't actually need a culinary degree to cook, and after threatening to leave, was given a dishwashing position so he could be in the kitchen. Two months later, he was promoted to prep after two guys quit, and was thus really able to hone his knife skills. Following, he landed another prep gig at La Vecchia Cucina in Santa Monica, where he learned a lot. His brother then secured a job at the Viceroy hotel, and got him an interview with Chef Warren Schwartz, who'd taken over the property's Whist restaurant in September 2004. Due to his limited English skills, Carrasco was given a dishwasher job, but soon mastered a number of other tasks in the kitchen.

After five months, he wanted to leave, but Schwartz recognized his contributions and promoted him to a position on the line. Schwartz, though, ended up leaving the Viceroy in June 2008 to get ready for the opening of Westside Tavern that October. Carrasco was supposed to come along, but due to poaching allegations, he stayed at Whist for a while before moving over. He cooked on the line at Westside Tavern until 2013, but during that period, worked a number of second jobs, which allowed him to both learn more and make more money. These included Waterloo & City (which opened in May 2010), where Brendan Collins made him do pastry, as well as Osteria Mozza, where he was also on the line. He also helped open Bouchon and served as a sous at Joe's following the departure of Kris Tominaga in 2011. Other stints included City Tavern in Culver City and Jordan Kahn's Red Medicine.

With some help from his girlfriend, Carrasco was able to land a sous position at Ricardo Zarate's Paiche, which debuted in April 2013. Just a few months later, he moved to Santa Barbara to become Executive Chef at Blue Tavern inside Hotel Indigo, which bowed that November. However, Zarate's empire famously collapsed in the fall of 2014, and though Carrasco had already moved to Mo-Chica by September, even that restaurant eventually shuttered at the end of the year. Seeing the writing on the wall, the Chef became CdC at Manhattan Beach Country Club in November 2014, where he cooked until 2017. In May 2016, he joined forces with old friend Phillip Frankland Lee (the two had worked together at Whist and Westside Tavern) to take over El Chavo in Los Feliz, replacing Freddy Vargas (Brandyn Tepper and Octavio Olivas were also involved).

January 2017 saw Carrasco take on the Exec Chef role at Scratch Bar & Kitchen. During his tenure with Lee, he also ran Woodley Proper and headed up the company's projects up at Montecito Inn. However, the Thomas Fire put a hold on the Santa Barbara restaurants, and as a result, he wound up joining Zarate once again in July 2018, this time at Once at The Palazzo in Las Vegas. He served as EC there, but after realizing that he needed to have his own business, left in May this year. Carrasco partnered with none other than his old boss Ricardo Zarate for Bee Taqueria, along with a HaeJin Baek. They were initially considering a location in Sawtelle, but eventually settled on this quaint, backyard-y spot. The Chef largely built the place (tables and benches) using his own hands (he had a mere $25,000 to work with), and event painted the street art himself (with the help of a friend).

Bee Taqueria MenuBee Taqueria Menu (Printed)
Here we see Bee Taqueria's opening menu, which is fairly traditional, though with a few twists here and there. Expect things to get more progressive as time goes on. Drink-wise, all you get are a few soft drinks (including housemade agua fresca), but BYOB is also an option. Click for larger versions.

2015 New Glarus R&D Bramble Berry Bourbon Barrel
We took advantage of the BYO option and brought along some beer, the first of which was the 2015 New Glarus R&D Bramble Berry Bourbon Barrel, a spontaneously-fermented wild brown ale with bramble fruit. Appealing nose of tart, fresh berry with a backbone of oak and yeast. The palate brought more sweet fruit, along with more sourness, an undercurrent of barrel, and notes of leather, spice, earth, and bitterness, especially on the back end.

Arrachera Asada
Arrachera Asada [$4.00] | Skirt steak, avocado pipicha salsa
Up first was Carrasco's take on the classic asada. Cooked slightly rare, the beef was a big step up from most of the stuff you see in tacos, showing off a great char and smoke along with spot on seasoning. It was tasty alone, but even better when paired with that super bright pepicha-enhanced salsa. As for the tortilla, I found it thick, substantial, really highlighting the Chef's Boyle Heights-sourced masa and serving as an effective foil to the meat. A superb start.

Ceviche Frito
Ceviche Frito [$10.00] | Sea bass, sweet potato, onion, cilantro, rocoto leche
Next was a dish that could've come right out of the Ricardo Zarate playbook. Fried fish showed off an assertive brine, one evened out by the acidity of that pepper-infused leche de tigre. Onions provided a further zestiness that I really appreciated, but my favorite part was the salty crunch from the cancha.

2018 Beachwood Blendery Apricot Funk Yeah
Our next beer was the 2018 Beachwood Blendery Apricot Funk Yeah, a gueuze-inspired blend of one-, two-, and three-year-old oak barrel-aged sour ales, with apricots added. It smelled funky and acidic at first blush, and had the stone fruit coming in later. Taste-wise, I got more apricot, commingled with yeast, funk, oak, and plenty of sourness.

Cochinito
Cochinito [$3.00] | Slow braised pork, onions, jalapeno, cilantro, and serrano sauce
This carnitas-like preparation really conveyed the depth of the slow-cooked pork, and worked swimmingly with the zestiness of onions/cilantro and especially that serrano-based salsa. My only concern was that the meat was a touch dry in places.

Pickles
The tacos came with a side of escabeche-style pickles.

2016 Cycle Trademark Dispute: &+
The 2016 Cycle Trademark Dispute: &+ (Red Label) was a bourbon barrel-aged stout with vanilla, chilies, and cinnamon. The beer conveyed tasty aromas of sweet spice, along with chocolate and bourbon. In terms of taste, there was a base of barrel and chocolate and roast, along with a decent amount of cinnamon and overarching notes of fragrant vanilla, while the peppers came through more on the finish.

Sanguche Jamon
Sanguche Jamon [$7.00] | Beans, onion, tomato, chipotle, smoked ham, aioli
We had here what basically amounted to a torta, something that the Chef makes for his family. I loved how the sandwich's salty base of ham married with the creamy, cheesy combo of beans, queso, and avocado. At the same time, the onions provided a fantastic offsetting zing to the dish, and I was a big fan of the soft bread here. The flavors meshed perfectly, making this probably the best torta I've ever had.

Tinga Betabel
Tinga Betabel [$4.00] | Beets, onion, chile morita, tomato, avocado salsa, cilantro
Our second round of food ended up being comped by the Chef, since he felt bad about closing the restaurant unexpectedly last week after we drove all the way out. We started with a tinga-esque presentation of beet, which I imagine must be Carrasco's requisite vegetarian dish. Fortunately the sweetness of the betabel was subdued, and matched especially well with the cheese and cilantro. Also key here was the tortilla, which also functioned as a crucial contrast.

Fresh punch of the day
Bee's Fresh punch of the day [$2] featured kiwi and mint. It was a breezy, refreshing drink, with lots of the advertised mint but not enough kiwi.

Beans
The tacos also came with a complimentary side of black beans, which were brightened up nicely by the chopped cilantro on top.

Sanguche Quesillo
Sanguche Quesillo [$6.00] | Beans, onion, tomato, chipotle, queso fresco, lime aioli
Our second sandwich was pretty much the same as the one above, but without the additional heft and savoriness of the ham. Still a strong, delicious effort.

2019 Bottle Logic El Duende
The evening's final beer was the 2019 Bottle Logic El Duende, an horchata-inspired bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout with Saigon and Ceylon cinnamon, lactose, and Madagascar vanilla. Bouquet of spicy cinnamon layered over a base of roasty chocolate. As for the palate, I found it soft and smooth, with more hot-spicy notes mixed with chocolate, hints of vanilla, and light barrel. A fitting dessert beer.

Cordero BBQ
Cordero BBQ [$4.00] | Shredded lamb, beans, dried chipotle sauce, lamb broth
A barbacoa-inspired preparation of lamb displayed a wonderful spice and depth, and meshed beautifully with the beans while onions provided a touch of levity. Interestingly, the taco also came with a shot of hearty, homey lamb broth.

Media Luna
Media Luna (Cut Open)
Media Luna [$6.00] | Crispy taco, Shrimp, scallops, morita aioli, herbs, shrimp consomme
The meal ended with another favorite of mine. The taco really did a wonderful job conveying the sweetness and brine of the seafood, and I loved how well that played with the dish's herbs and smoky heat. Its sheer crunchiness was a joy, too. And if that wasn't enough, the taco also came with a small cup of super intense, spicy shrimp consommé.

Not only was our meal enjoyable, it showed a lot of promise as well. Carrasco's wide-ranging skills and experiences are evident in the food, which is rooted in Mexican culinary tradition, but also incorporates unexpected elements. I'm excited to see what's to come, and there's a lot. He hopes to expand the menu with more unconventional offerings such as tacos árabes from Puebla, and wants to add dessert in the form of housemade churros and ice cream. He's even thinking about implementing an all-you-can-eat "Taco Tuesday" offering as well. However, that all pales in comparison with the Chef's "taco omakase," a five-course, reservations-required degustation held in a special area of the restaurant near the kitchen. Think tacos with bone marrow, chapulines, epazote, even a combination of camembert/honey/guava. That experience commenced on September 10th, so I'll definitely plan to be back for it.

Herbs & Rye (Las Vegas, NV)

$
0
0
Herbs and Rye Steakhouse & Classic Cocktails
3713 W Sahara Ave, Las Vegas, NV 89102
702.982.8036
www.herbsandrye.com
Sat 08/24/2019, 10:30p-12:45a




Herbs & Rye Exterior

I recently found myself in Vegas, and my first stop after settling in at my hotel was the Westside's oft-touted Herbs & Rye. The restaurant-bar opened on December 15th, 2009, and is the brainchild of owner-slash-barman Nectaly Mendoza, who actually started his bar career at Todd English's recently-shuttered Olives at Bellagio. The early days of H&R were rough, with Mendoza even having to sell his car in order to pay his staff. However, the spot eventually began making a name for itself, and over the years, has racked up numerous awards and accolades, for example taking home wins for "Best American Bar Team" and "Best American High-Volume Cocktail Bar" at the 13th Annual Spirited Awards during this year's Tales of the Cocktail.

Meanwhile, helming the kitchen here is Executive Chef Mariano Ochoa, a Vegas local who actually started out as a dishwasher at Herbs & Rye two weeks after the place opened. After being promoted to kitchen manager and learning how to cook, he was made EC in 2011. He's also running the show at Cleaver - Butchered Meats, Seafood & Cocktails, Mendoza's new joint on the Eastside that replaces the old Toscano. That restaurant opened on September 9th last year, and is more of a classic steakhouse, though there's still a definite emphasis on mixology.

Herbs & Rye Interior
Inside, things are dark and moody, which is just what you'd want from a place like this. Pictured above is the bar area, but there's also a proper dining room.

Herbs & Rye Menu: Appetizers, Flatbreads, Soups & Salads, Pasta, Herbs & Rye FavoritesHerbs & Rye Menu: Meats & Methods, Sauces, Additions, Sides, Surf & TurfHerbs & Rye Cocktail List: Gothic Age, Golden Age, Old School, ProhibitionHerbs & Rye Cocktail List: Years of Reform, Rat Pack Era, Tiki BoomHerbs & Rye Wine & Beer ListHerbs & Rye Booze List
The menu here is clearly centered on the steaks, but of course these are joined by appropriate sides, starters, and other sundry dishes, many with tinges of Italy. An even bigger draw, however, is the cocktail list, comprising a large array of classic libations from various eras. There's also a selection of wines and beers, if you must. Click for larger versions.

Blood And Sand
Blood And Sand [$12.00] | Scotch, Luxardo Cherry, Sweet Vermouth, Orange
I began with a cocktail named after a bullfighting film of the same name, starring Rudolph Valentino. It smelled of super refreshing citrus with a tinge of sweet spice and smoke--very nice. Taste-wise, the main thrust of the drink was subdued berry fruit commixed with citrus, with the bitter, boozy nature of whisky peeking through on the mid-palate. A good start to the evening.

Carpaccio
Carpaccio [$18.00] | Sliced Beef, Capers, Balsamic Glaze, Cherry Pepper Aioli, Arugula, Truffle Vinaigrette, Parmesan
Appetizer duties were handled by this lovely rendition of a classic beef carpaccio. The meat ate soft and peppery, and meshed superbly with the tangy aioli and zestiness of arugula. The truffle vin, meanwhile, imparted an overarching funk to the dish, and I appreciated the additional heft and salt of the Parm, too.

Vieux Carr'e
Vieux Carr'e [$12.00] | Rye, Cognac, Benedictine, Sweet Vermouth, Angostura Bitters, Peychauds Bitters
Next was one of the most famous cocktails to ever come out of New Orleans. The nose blended citrus and dark fruit with the unmistakable punch of the bitters. On the palate: more bitters and more fruity vermouth led to nuts and chocolate on the back end, along with a trace of herby spice. Overall, one of the best (the best?) versions of the drink I've had.

14 oz New York Strip
14 oz New York Strip (Cut)
14 oz New York Strip [$44.00]
In addition to the drinks, the restaurant is also known for its steaks, so naturally I had to give one a shot. What I got was very tasty, and actually managed to exceed expectations. I found the meat properly juicy, with a good chew to it and copious amounts of sear and smoke, which I really appreciated. Seasoning was straightforward and effective, really allowing the inherent deliciousness of the steak to shine.

Blackthorne
Blackthorne [$13.00] | Sloe Gin, Pineapple Syrup, Lemon, Green Chartreuse
Next was a cocktail featuring sloe gin, which I really don't see much these days. The drink smelled rather nice, with notes of sweet, creamy spice all over the place. In terms of taste, there was pineapple right up front, transitioning to nuances of herb and bitterness, along with a touch of citrus bringing up the rear.

Whiskey Shallot Potatoes
Whiskey Shallot Potatoes [+$3.00]
The steaks do come with your choice of side, hence this. The potatoes were excellent, perhaps the best potato dish I've had all year in fact. I actually didn't get much of the advertised whiskey, but that was alright given how utterly good the garlickiness of the shallots was. The dish was perfect texturally as well, and I liked the bits of herb on top, too. This is the side to get.

Ramos Gin Fizz
Ramos Gin Fizz [$14.00] | Gin, Citrus, Orange Flower Water, Egg White, Cream, Soda
Last up was one of the most pain-in-the-ass cocktails to make, but it was a fairly slow night, so I didn't feel that I was burdening my bartender by ordering it. In any case, it was one of the strongest renditions I've tasted. Think soft and smooth on the palate, with a superb balance between citrus and the inherently creamy nature of the drink.

Bread Pudding
Bread Pudding [$9.50]
Dessert was an apple bread pudding. I found it a fairly traditional version, coming out rich and hefty, with a nice contribution from the caramelized apples. And of course, you gotta have the contrast from the ice cream.

Fernet Branca
To close: a complimentary serving of Fernet Branca.

It'd been a pretty long while since I'd been in Vegas, and Herbs & Rye served as a great welcome back. I wish I'd been able to try more cocktails, but the four I did sample were pretty much spot on and undoubtedly well-made. The food was also quite good, while I couldn't find fault with the service, either, which was friendly yet uncompromisingly efficient. I can totally see why H&R is a favorite for locals and industry folks alike.

Restaurant Guy Savoy (Las Vegas, NV) [4]

$
0
0
Restaurant Guy Savoy at Caesars Palace
3570 Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.731.7286
www.caesars.com/caesars-palace/restaurants/guy-savoy/
Sun 08/25/2019, 8:20p-12:05a




Restaurant Guy Savoy Entrance After dining at local favorite Herbs & Rye the previous night, I wanted to do something decidedly fancier this evening, and ended up picking Guy Savoy. I was last here in 2012, and back then this place was commanded by one Mathieu Chartron. Chartron, however, left in October 2015, returning to France to take the reins at his parents' restaurant. He was soon replaced by Julien Asseo, who'd been at Savoy since 2011, starting as a tournant before advancing to the position of Chef de Cuisine (interestingly, he was also opening sous at Rivera back in the day). Asseo, meanwhile, decamped himself in February this year to open Les Petites Canailles, a bistro-like spot in Paso Robles, and superseding him is new Executive Chef Nicolas Costagliola.

About the Chef: Nicola Costagliola was born in Paris, but grew up in Nice, and first got interested in food as a result of his grandmother's cooking. When he was 15, he enrolled in hotel school at Lycée Hôtelier Paul Augier in his hometown, and following graduation, worked his way through various restaurants in France. In 2007, he relocated to the US and soon began working as a commis at Downtown Vegas' longstanding Pamplemousse Le Restaurant. From there, Costagliola moved to Marché Bacchus in Summerlin, as well as Garfield's, situated just a few doors down. However, he left Garfield's in early 2010 and subsequently went back to the south of France, where he cooked on the line at Restaurant Alain Llorca in La Colle-sur-Loup until November 2011.

He then came back to Las Vegas to take on a chef de partie position at Guy Savoy--under Mathieu Chartron--before rising to sous; he also got married to Celine Imbach in August 2013. In October 2014, Costagliola became sous at Gordon Ramsay Steak at Paris, a gig that lasted a year. From there, he returned to Guy Savoy as CdC, working with Julien Asseo until June 2017, when he took over the Assistant Executive Chef position at Caesars' Bacchanal Buffet. During this period he also assisted in the opening of another Bacchanal at Caesars Bluewaters Dubai, as well as Gordon Ramsay Hell's Kitchen here at Caesars Palace. Finally, Costagliola was named Executive Chef of Savoy this May.

He's joined in the kitchen by Pastry Chef Sebastien Polycarpe, who's been at the restaurant since 2012 and also runs Brioche by Guy Savoy, a quick-service spot at Caesars that opened in 2016. Day-to-day pastry duties are handled by Pastry Sous Chef Joie Griego, while Alain Alpe remains in place as General Manager.

Restaurant Guy Savoy Dining Room
Guy Savoy resides on the second floor of the Augustus Tower, and above we see the main dining room, which is pretty much exactly how I remember it from before. There have, however, been a couple changes to the restaurant. First of all, the Krug Room is gone, replaced in 2013 by the Krug Chef's Table, a six-seater table situated inside the kitchen (which was there previously, but just not Krug-branded). Secondly, the old Bubbles & Bites Lounge in the front was replaced in February 2013 by the Cognac Room, a spot featuring numerous bottles of high-end brandy. However, the Cognac Room itself was replaced in 2017 by the Caviar Room, a spot featuring an all-caviar menu in both à la carte and tasting formats. The Caviar Room, though, has since been nixed, and now the front bar/lounge area serves no particular purpose.

Restaurant Guy Savoy Menu
As far as the menu goes, the one to get is the Prestige Tasting Menu, a 14-course dégustation of both new and classic dishes priced at $385 a head, plus $200 or $375 for wine pairing. On this evening, there was also a shorter six-course Forbes menu at $555pp, inclusive of wine pairing, and it is possible to order à la carte, but why? Corkage, I'm told, is not allowed, though I didn't attempt it myself. Click for a larger version.

Miniature French Sandwich
After being seated, I was quickly presented with a miniature sandwich of sorts. It married the flavors of foie gras and black truffle perfectly, while sea salt added pricks of salinity to the mix. However, I was a bit concerned with the bread, which was tougher than I'd prefer.

Miniature French Burger
The sammie was soon followed by a mini burger, one featuring seared beef tartare and tarragon mustard, on a Parmesan brioche bun. It was pretty great, the headiness of the meat meshing superbly with the tanginess of mustard, all while the sweet, soft bread moderated it all. I could pop a whole bunch of these.

R. & L. Legras, Guy Savoy Blanc de Blancs, Chouilly
At this point I was still feeling the after effects from the previous night, so I went easy on the alcohol, and just had a couple glasses of Champagne, the first of which was the private label R. & L. Legras, Guy Savoy Blanc de Blancs, Chouilly [$29]. Rich, heady nose filled with pome fruit and backed by a touch of oxidation. On the palate, think slightly oxidative, nutty, bitter, with restrained fruit. Overall, I found this rich and robust and a very pleasant surprise.

Bread Cart
Here we see Savoy's impressive bread spread. Varieties this evening included baguette, multigrain fennel baguette, rosemary fougasse, black olive, bacon-onion country, honey, sourdough, brioche, cherry-pecan, and classic pain de campagne.

Rosemary Fougasse, Multigrain Fennel Baguette
I had my server Adrien select his two favorites for me, and he picked the fougasse, which seemed to convey more rosemary the more I chewed, and the multigrain, which had a wonderfully zingy anise taste.

Butter & Olive Oil Cart
Provençal Olive Oil &Échiré Butter
I was then presented with the butter cart, which was new to me. Adrien proceeded to shave me off some soft, sweet, delicate unsalted Échiré butter, and also poured me some of that olive oil, a particularly intense, almost bracing example from Provence.

Kushi Oyster Concassée, Lemon and Seaweed Granité
1: Kushi Oyster Concassée, Lemon and Seaweed Granité
The first proper course comprised a Kusshi from British Columbia, with a concasse seasoned with olive oil and green scallion, then finished with a lemon and seaweed granita. The dish smelled strongly of the sea, while the oyster itself ate creamy and soft, its subtle salinity nicely matched by the sweet-tart nature of its accompaniments. Also of note was the somewhat dramatic temperature contrast here.

Dungeness Crab and Caviar
2: Dungeness Crab and Caviar
Next came a stout cylinder of Dungeness, crowned with a thin layer of avocado, as well as Royal Ossetra caviar and gold leaf, all sitting atop a base of watermelon radish gelée. Also present were bits of smoked crostini topped with finger lime, dots of fresh and torched avocado, as well as fresh mango and smoked mango purée. What struck me first here was the sweetness of the crab, and how clearly that was conveyed. Said sweetness worked swimmingly with the saltiness from the caviar, while the fruit and avocado came in later and moderated the interaction. Bringing up the rear, meanwhile, was a long, lingering brine from the Dungeness, which was somehow silent previously.

Octopus in Cold Steam, Flavors and Textures of a Béarnaise (Covered)
Octopus in Cold Steam, Flavors and Textures of a Béarnaise
3: Octopus in Cold Steam, Flavors and Textures of a Béarnaise
Here was a somewhat theatrical course featuring slow cooked octopus, thinly sliced, dotted with tarragon, egg yolk confit, and shallot puree, with crispy bits made from octo juice and tapioca. The whole shebang was then cold steamed with seaweed water in order to convey the essence of the ocean. The end result was arguably the most fine-spun presentation of octopus that I've had. I loved how the dish's subtle seasoning and spice enhanced its natural brine, while my favorite element here has to be the crunchy, savory bits of tapioca, which worked as a super smart, super effective counterpoint to everything.

Salmon Iceberg
4: Salmon Iceberg
This was Ora King salmon from New Zealand, placed on a block of red Himalayan salt for three minutes, then "cooked" atop dry ice. The fish was then served with a lemongrass bouillon, steamed bok choy, a mixture of lime-lemon-Meyer lemon-finger lime, and blocks of chervil gelée. Tasting the salmon alone, I found it smoky and saline and delicious, with a healthy amount of fat. Meanwhile, the dry ice treatment offered up contrasts in both texture and temperature, and I loved the amazing aroma of that lemongrass, not to mention the bitterness of bok choy. However, I found the citrus a bit too strong here, and its sourness tended to overwhelm the fish.

Black Olive Bread, Bacon-Onion Country Bread
With my previous two pieces of bread dispensed with, Adrien then selected the surprisingly restrained black olive varietal, as well as the bacon bread, replete with crispy, savory bits of the advertised pork.

Red Mullet, Fregula Sarda and Jus Corsé
5: Red Mullet, Fregula Sarda and Jus Corsé
Mediterranean red mullet featured a mouthwateringly intense salinity that I loved, along with a soft, supple consistency and a super crisp, delicate skin. The fish was delicious just by itself, but I also liked the bitterness of the braised spinach, while the pasta provided both texture and served to temper the strong flavors present. The finishing fumet, meanwhile, imparted further depth and umami to the dish. A favorite course of mine.

Seared Foie Gras, Sea Urchin and Pomegranate
6: Seared Foie Gras, Sea Urchin and Pomegranate
I'm generally not a huge fan of seared foie (much preferring it cold), but this managed to be a standout. The liver was presented on top of a disk of yamada nishiki rice along with roasted pomegranate seeds and celery root, then topped with sea urchin, pomegranate gastrique, and pomegranate rice cracker. The crux of the course was that rice, which tempered the richness, the luxuriousness of the foie while providing a crunchy contrast in texture. Uni imparted further depth to the dish, and the fruit a punch of tartness and acidity. I didn't mind the slight herbiness of the celeriac, either.

Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup, Toasted Mushroom Brioche, and Black Truffle Butter
7: Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup, Toasted Mushroom Brioche, and Black Truffle Butter
Next came arguably Savoy's most well-known dish. I've had this a couple times before, and from what I can remember, the vegetal nature of the artichoke was actually much more apparent this time around. It actually made for a lighter-than-expected soup, but one still dutifully imbued with the heady aromatics of truffle. On the side, meanwhile, was a soft, sweet toasted mushroom brioche, replete with truffle butter. Be sure to sop up the remaining liquid with it.

Roasted Sweetbread, Garlic Pinenut Purée, Veal and Mushroom Jus
8: Roasted Sweetbread, Garlic Pinenut Purée, Veal and Mushroom Jus
Pan-seared veal sweetbread arrived with a supple, almost creamy consistency and plenty of lush, earthy flavors, flavors that were taken up a notch by the sweet-savory nature of both porcini and mushroom jus. The garlicky pine nut purée, meanwhile, imparted a nuttiness to the dish that made it smell like the autumn, while the arugula provided a much-appreciated zestiness.

Doyard, Cuvée Vendémiaire, Blanc de Blancs, 1er Cru, Vertus
The second Champagne of the evening was the Doyard, Cuvée Vendémiaire, Blanc de Blancs, 1er Cru, Vertus [$40]. This was a much lighter wine compared to the first, and displayed crisp, fresh apple on the nose, along with a touch of toast. On the palate, I found it clean and fresh overall, though there were hints of oxidation alongside minerals, more pome fruit, lemon, and a bit of yeast.

Pluma de Bellota Iberico, Mediterranean Flavors
9: Pluma de Bellota Iberico, Mediterranean Flavors
Iberian pork shoulder loin made for probably my favorite course of the night. Taken alone, I found the cut super tender, yet still very satisfying, with immensely porcine, peppery flavors that were further augmented by the drizzles of jus. Accompaniments of tomato confit and tapenade certainly made sense, but the key here was that baby gem lettuce tempura, which functioned as a flawless contrast in both taste and texture. Superb.

Cheese Chart
Three Cheese Selection
At this point I requested the cheese cart, which actually isn't normally part of the Prestige Menu, though the staff was happy to provide it free of charge. Going from left to right, selections this evening included: Saint Angel, Brie, Pont-l'Évêque, Fourme d'Ambert, an unknown cheese (Gruyère-like, aged 36 months), Ossau-Iraty, another unknown cheese (a very runny one, made with sheep's milk), and Roquefort. I first opted for the Fourme, arguably my favorite blue, and found it sweet and salty and refined, with a bit of grass and funk mixed in. Also on my plate was the Pont-l'Évêque, which ate wonderfully herbaceous, but with a barnyard-y quality to it and an excellent rind. My third selection was the Gruyère-like unknown (the name was something like "la mer du Gironde"). This one was decidedly nutty, but what was most notable was the texture, which was sandy and crystalline on account of its considerable age. Note also the honeycomb, which I found unabashedly sugary, yet never cloying.

Cherry-Pecan Bread
Adrien suggested a cherry-pecan bread to pair with the cheese--a wise selection.

Fromage Frais, Cherry and Herbs
10: Fromage Frais, Cherry and Herbs
With the cheese cart done with, we got back into the set menu and its composed cheese course. Fresh housemade goat cheese was excellent, its soft, creamy nature meshing gorgeously with all the herbs that were incorporated. It was delicious alone, but even better when taken with that fruity cherry coulis, and I loved the crunch and salt of the crouton on top, too.

'From Beet to Sweet'
11: "From Beet to Sweet"
This course brought beet espuma, encased in a candied beet shell, along with pickled mustard seeds, chopped hazelnut, hazelnut powder, and mustard greens. As regular readers will know, I'm no fan of beets, but this was about as good as beet can be for me. Its earthy sweetness was well-conveyed, but also very polished, and worked particularly well with the nuts here. A smart transition of sorts from savory to sweet.

Peach and Saffron
12: Peach and Saffron
The first proper dessert comprised saffron-marinated peach, topped with a peach-saffron granité, sitting on a pile of white chocolate and buckwheat tossed in saffron. It was a winner, displaying intense, almost candied peach notes against a backdrop of nutty, crispy buckwheat, all while the saffron contributed a grassiness on the back end. Cool and refreshing and delicious.

Dry Age Pineapple, Baked in Clay, Scent of Lemongrass, Mellowest Aloe Vera (Pineapple)
Dry Age Pineapple, Baked in Clay, Scent of Lemongrass, Mellowest Aloe Vera (Pineapple Hammering by Pastry Sous Chef Joie Griego)
Dry Age Pineapple, Baked in Clay, Scent of Lemongrass, Mellowest Aloe Vera
13: Dry Age Pineapple, Baked in Clay, Scent of Lemongrass, Mellowest Aloe Vera
Next came perhaps the most fascinating presentation of pineapple I'd ever encountered. The process involves small West African pineapples, which are shaved upon receipt, tied with string and hung in a refrigerator for two-to-three weeks. With the aging complete, the resultant pineapples are cut into pieces, covered in clay, shaved, carved, and baked in an oven. The clay is then broken with a mallet tableside, and plated with lemongrass sorbet, fresh grapefruit, aloe vera soaked in hibiscus tea, tapioca soaked in the same hibiscus tea and fried, yuzu, and a coconut tuile. The end product of this whole ordeal was something pretty special. The pineapple had this wonderfully fragrant aroma that I loved, while its taste was super concentrated, with a depth of flavor that almost recalled caramel. It matched absolutely beautifully with the bracing nature of the lemongrass, and I enjoyed the floralness of the aloe vera as well, not to mention the crunch from the tuile.

Chocolate
14: Chocolate
Our final proper course was this Dulcey chocolate-banana cremeux, atop chocolate crumbles, topped with banana "paper" and silver foil, and dusted with coffee bean powder. The back-and-forth between the chocolate and the vibrant flavors of banana was spot on, and I was definitely into the bitter, roasty notes from the coffee on the back end.

Candy Cart
Mignardise Selection
Mignardise duties were handled by the restaurant's famed candy cart. Clockwise from upper-left, we have (my selections in bold): corn flakes balls with white chocolate and pineapple (sweet and nutty, though I didn't really get the pineapple), pandan marshmallows (classic marshmallow at first, with aromatic pandan coming in on the mid-palate), madeleines, lychee pâtes de fruits (subtle initially, then a good amount of vibrant fruit), peach pâtes de fruits, French vanilla rice pudding, mousse au chocolat, crème caramel (very eggy, with lots of sugary caramel on the bottom), dark chocolates with strawberry ganache, dark chocolate bars with nuts, chocolate brownies, chocolate tarts with cocoa nibs, cheesecake with raspberry jam, cream puffs with pistachio cream (my favorite, thanks to its amaretto-like sweetness and gritty, nutty bits), lemon meringue tartlet, and blueberry-blackberry clafoutis (like a blueberry muffin).

Espresso Service
Some Espresso [$6] to go along with the petits fours.

Earl Grey Tea Sorbet
The meal concluded with an Earl Grey tea sorbet with black pepper. I found this a refreshing palate cleanser, its great floral notes transitioning to an unexpectedly strong pepperiness on the finish.

Citrus Brioche
To take home: a citrus brioche of some sort. I had it the next day and it was pretty great.

It'd been a whopping seven years since my last meal at Guy Savoy, but I'm glad to report that the place seems to be holding up just fine with Costagliola at the helm now. The menu seems a bit more venturesome, which is nice to see, but of course the food still remains true to the ethos of what makes Guy Savoy, well Guy Savoy. I'm sure I'll make it back here on a future visit to Vegas.

Kabuto (Las Vegas, NV)

$
0
0
Kabuto Edomae Sushi
5040 W Spring Mountain Rd, Las Vegas, NV 89146
702.676.1044
www.kabutolv.com
Mon 08/26/2019, 08:30p-10:55p




Kabuto Exterior

After dining at Guy Savoy the previous night, I was in the mood for something completely different, and opted for sushi. And as far as sushi in Vegas goes, one name that I'd heard a lot about was Kabuto. Named after a type of helmet from Japanese antiquity, the spot is situated in Chinatown's Seoul Plaza (yes, so a Japanese eatery in a Korean shopping center in Chinatown), and soft-opened in April 2012. It's actually part of Takashi Segawa's Mon Restaurant Group, which also owns the likes of Monta, Monta Chaya, Sushi Mon, Goyemon, Ramen Kobo, and Chamon Matcha Salon in the Las Vegas area, not to mention Marugame Monzo in Downtown LA.

Kabuto was opened by Chef Gen Mizoguchi, a Tokyo native who moved to New York in 2005 to work at Megu under none other than Raku's Mitsuo Endo. The two quickly became friends, which is largely why Mizoguchi moved to Vegas in 2012 for the debut of Kabuto. The place soon established itself as one of the go-to spots for real-deal nigiri in the desert, and was even deemed one of Bon Appetit's "Best New Restaurants of 2012." However, Gen-san was out by the start of May 2014 (following a mysterious two week shutter for "renovations"), having left to work on his own restaurant, Yui Edomae Sushi, which bowed in November 2015.

Mizoguchi was replaced by Ken Hosoki, his former second-in-command. Ken-san actually lived in Southern California circa 2011, working at sushi places in both Huntington Beach and Venice; interestingly, he was also a fan of the late Kasen in Fountain Valley. My itamae tonight, meanwhile, was Toshi, who was manning the middle of the counter. Toshi-san has been here for about two years, and previously worked at sushi-ya in Yokohama and Tokyo before deciding that he wanted to venture outside of Japan. He apparently wound up at Kabuto after simply applying for a job here online. The third person behind the bar was Ishi-san, a larger man working to Toshi-san's right.

Kabuto Menu IntroductionKabuto Menu: Omakase CourseKabuto Menu: A La CarteKabuto Sake ListKabuto Sake ListKabuto Wine ListKabuto Beer & Soft Drink ListKabuto Sushi Menu
Kabuto is an omakase-focused place, and guests are encouraged to choose one of three different levels (I opted for the flagship "Kabuto" option at $120pp), though do note that à la carte ordering of sushi was allowed at the end of my set menu. Drink-wise, I went for the sake pairing offered at $52, but if that's not your jam, there's also a decent selection of sake by the bottle, a few wines, and your typical Japanese beers. When I inquired, corkage was $20, limit one bottle. Click for larger versions.

Shokuzenshu
1: Shokuzenshu
Apéritif duties were handled by this strawberry sake, which was aged four-to-six months I believe. Weighing in at just 2% alcohol, I tasted the sweet yet subdued flavors of the fruit, backed by the boozy, ricey character of the sake. A fun start.

Zensai
2: Zensai
Here was a duo of starters. I began with the soy-marinated bonito, which showed off a wonderful blend of smoke, umami, and fat, countered by the zestiness of what I believe was chopped onion, while the yamaimo offered up a mild, mucilaginous contrast. We also had some meaty-but-delicate cuts of octopus, paired with sweet shards of crabmeat. It was a tasty combination, one perked up by light, crunchy cucumber and the unmistakably tart, slimy nature of mozuku.

Aoki Kaku-Rei, Daiginjo, Niigata
The first of five sakes in the pairing was the Aoki Kaku-Rei, Daiginjo, Niigata, meant to go with the sashimi course below. It smelled great, giving up a super aromatic nose filled with fragrant fruit and rice. Meanwhile, I found its palate soft and smooth, with more pome fruit and light flowers leading to boozy spice on the back end.

O Zo
3: O Zo
The requisite sashimi moriawase featured five items, paired with a three year-aged daiginjo soy sauce. Counter-clockwise from upper-left:
  • Sawara - Spanish mackerel from Japan; this was excellent thanks to its refined brine, and I was pretty floored at how well the fish paired with ginger--my favorite of the fivesome.
  • Suzuki - Japanese sea bass ate delicate and clean, while the homemade seaweed paste on the side added an extra kick of smoke and savor.
  • Shigoku - Sourced from the Seattle area, the oyster showed off a long-lasting salinity that matched up swimmingly with the tanginess of ponzu and momiji oroshi.
  • Mirugai - Geoduck also came from Seattle, and conveyed strong oceanic flavors that were offset beautifully by the wasabi; I was also a fan of the texture of the giant clam, which was a mix between crunchy and yielding.
  • Botan Ebi - This Canadian-sourced shrimp display a deft balance between creamy and crispy consistencies, and really opened up gorgeously with a dab of sabi and soy.
Amabuki Himawari, Junmai Ginjo Nama, Saga
Next to imbibe came the Amabuki Himawari, Junmai Ginjo Nama, Saga, made with sunflower yeast. The sake smelled almost unbelievable funky, and had this savoriness to it that mellowed out with time. Taste-wise, it was more restrained, and showcased earthy flavors up front that led to sweet, ricey notes and dry, lingering alcoholic heat. This was an aggressive sake meant to stand up to the grill plate below.

Yakimono
4: Yakimono
Featuring grilled items, this was the most substantial course of the night. Clockwise from upper-right, we had:
  • Kinmedai Kama - Golden eye snapper collar just might've been the best kama I've ever had. I loved its firm, somewhat rubbery, yet pliant texture--which reminded me a bit of chicken oysters--while its flavors were uncompromisingly salty and savory and smoky and delicious, especially with a squirt of the included lemon.
  • Sake - King salmon arrived with a sweet-nutty orange clam-scallop sesame cream sauce, though unfortunately it was cooked more than I would've preferred.
  • Watarigani - Set in a mushroom dashi, blue crab ate fresh and juicy, though I wanted more aggressive seasoning on this one.
  • Toro - Grilled tuna belly was firm, fatty, and fishy, so its acidic condiment on top was much appreciated.
  • Shiromisakana - I found the whitefish soft and smoky, but its sweet miso sauce was actually a bit too sugary for my liking.
Sushi Geta
At this point Toshi-san brought out the geta, signaling the beginning of the nigirizushi phase of the meal. Note the two varieties of gari, with the ginger in front being homemade if I understood the Chef correctly.

Kikusui, Organic Junmai Ginjo, Niigata
To pair with the more lightly-flavored sushi, we had the Kikusui, Organic Junmai Ginjo, Niigata. It had a fantastic nose brimming with juicy stone fruit, while in terms of taste, I found it very balanced, the sake's base of sweet rice intermingling with tropical fruit and melon.

kasugo-tai
5: kasugo-tai
Spring baby snapper was a superb start to the sushi. I loved its wonderful pricks of sea salt and its citric freshness from its sprinkling of yuzu zest, while the fish itself ate lean and clean, with a hint of umami complexity.

inada
6: inada
Young yellowtail featured a noticeable, yet restrained and refined fattiness that matched superbly with the soy. What was really interesting here was how the warmness of the shari really made itself known.

akami
7: akami
A supple cut of lean tuna showed off a beautifully ruby red hue, while its relatively mild flavors were enhanced by a brushing of shoyu.

shin-ika
8: shin-ika
The baby ink squid was no doubt one of the best examples I've had. I was huge fan of its smooth, cushiony consistency, and how well the squid meshed with accompanying flavors of soy and subtle, creeping wasabi, all while the rice served an especially crucial role here for contrast.

ezo-bafun uni
9: ezo-bafun uni
Japanese sea urchin was a joy to eat. This particular serving had an especially thick, viscous consistency, as well as a spot on balance between sweet and mineral-driven flavors.

ikura
10: ikura
The salmon roe was one of the better examples I've tasted. The key was how the roe's robust brine married with a backbone of sweet, almost nutty flavors.

Kasumi Tsuru, Kimoto Extra Dry, Hyogo
The second sake pairing for sushi was the Kasumi Tsuru, Kimoto Extra Dry, Hyogo. It had a fairly strong nose of alcoholic sweetness and a trace of umami, while the taste blended distinct rich, ricey notes with an almost austere sort of fruitiness and a bit of earth.

karako ebi
11: karako ebi
Next was what must be the most unusual shrimp sushi I've ever had. The actual saimaki ebi was about what you'd expect, but what made this interesting was that egg yolk mixture, which added a definite heft to the bite that came through on the finish. I found the rice here especially crucial for balance.

ma-aji
12: ma-aji
The jack mackerel was another favorite. It was one of the cleanest, most elegant examples of the fish I'd ever had, and I was absolutely smitten by the brightness of that pesto-like condiment on top.

kamashita-toro
13: kamashita-toro
Another standout was the hard-to-find kamatoro. Cut from the collar of the tuna, it was wondrously marbled and oily and lush, so the soy was crucial here, serving as a link between the fish and the rice.

jabara-toro
14: jabara-toro
This underbelly cut of toro was also a treat. I found it super, super savory, while texturally it was softer, but also showed off more sinew. It was a stark difference compared to the kama--a much grittier, more rustic experience I'd say.

kogane anago
15: kogane anago
Golden sea eel was particularly subtle and exquisite, its sweet-savory dressing playing well with the tartness of yuzu zest. Very nice.

gyoku
16: gyoku
Tamago signaled the end of the sushi. It displayed a very gratifying "hammy" sort of savoriness, and in fact, was one of the least sweet examples I've had. What I found surprising was how hot (temperature-wise) the omelette was; it actually was painful to hold for more than a few seconds!

engawa
At this point in the meal I was offered the chance to order sushi à la carte, and started off with engawa. Unfortunately, there wasn't enough fluke muscle fin left, so Toshi-san ended up serving me the little piece he had remaining, free of charge. The appeal with this part of the fish is its crunchy, snappy texture, and that's exactly what I got.

itoyori
itoyori [$6.00]
Threadfin bream was perked up by pops of salt and citrus, while it also conveyed an unexpected funk on the finish.

akahata kobujime
akahata kobujime [$6.00]
Red rock cod was another uncommon selection. I found it meaty to the bite, with a concentrated flavor profile replete with lingering umami notes from its kelp treatment.

kohada
kohada [$6.00]
The gizzard shad revealed a robust yet refined brine, countered by the heat of wasabi, an undercurrent of sweetness, and of course the rice.

kisu
kisu [$7.00]
Sand borer (a.k.a. Japanese whiting) was a lean, clean fish, but one with more complexity than you'd expect, especially given its semi-sweet topping of kimizu (made with egg yolk and vinegar).

Temaki
17: Temaki
With the nigiri done with, we were served a tuna hand roll, which turned out to be one of the best I've had. I loved its straightforward yet undoubtedly effective marriage of tuna and wasabi, all moderated by the shari, but what struck me the most was the nori and how utterly crispy it was. Simple but sort of profound.

Wan Mono
18: Wan Mono
Miso soup was enhanced by the sweetness of shrimp, and I especially enjoyed all that scallion up top.

Yamamoto Honke Yuzu Omoi, Junmai, Kyoto
The evening's final beverage was the Yamamoto Honke Yuzu Omoi, Junmai, Kyoto, a sake with yuzu juice added. Think refreshing citrusy sweetness, but counterbalanced by acidity, some herbaceous notes, and a touch of alcoholic heat.

Sudachi Cheesecake
19: Sudachi Cheesecake
There were three options for dessert this evening: Japanese sudachi cheesecake topped with blueberry sauce, sesame panna cotta with black sesame caramel, and green tea ice cream with red bean paste. Obviously I went with the first option, and I was not disappointed. I found the cake surprisingly light, and was a big fan of the sourness imparted by the citrus and how that worked with the sweetness of the berries. Excellent crust here, too.

Agari
Along with dessert cake a piping hot cup of green tea.

Ishi-san, Toshi-san, Ken Hosoki
The bar team: Head Chef Ken Hosoki on the right, along with Toshi (center) and Ishi.

Kabuto was actually my first experience with off-Strip sushi, and I came out of the meal pretty impressed. I can't really find much fault with the sushi, and I definitely appreciate the wide variety of neta available here. The food stacks up well to the upper echelon places in Los Angeles. Service was commendable too, and the option of a sake pairing was a nice touch that I just don't see very often at all. A lot of people consider this place the best sushi in Las Vegas, and after eating here, I can certainly see why.

Sweets Raku (Las Vegas, NV)

$
0
0
Raku Sweets
5040 Spring Mountain Rd, Las Vegas, NV 89146
702.290.7181
www.raku-sweets.com
Mon 08/26/2019, 11:00p-12:00a




Sweets Raku Exterior

After a pretty stellar sushi meal at Kabuto, I went next door to Sweets Raku, a dessert-focused offshoot of Mitsuo Endo's game-changing Raku, which is located on the other end of the same Chinatown strip mall. The spot soft-opened at the end of July 2013, and running the kitchen here is pâtissière Mio Ogasawara, who hails from Japan's Ehime Prefecture. After finishing confectionery school in 1999, she worked as a pastry chef throughout Japan before moving to the US in 2013 at Endo's behest to open this place.

Sweets Raku Interior
Rendered almost completely in shades of white, the space is centered around a 13-seater dessert bar that affords diners a view of the pastry action.

Sweets Raku Wine List: Red, Dessert WineSweets Raku Wine List: White, Special Drink & Beer ListSweets Raku Tea ListSweets Raku Coffee & Soft Drink ListSweets Raku Savory MenuSweets Raku Savory MenuSweets Raku Dessert MenuSweets Raku Dessert Menu
The menu features desserts of various persuasions (some rather whimsical), and there's even a savory menu for lunch (weekends only I believe). Beverage-wise, you'll find a surprisingly lengthy wine list (focused on sweeter selections, natch), along with a couple ho-hum beers and selections of tea and coffee.

Seasonal Sorbet - Mango
Seasonal Sorbet - Mango [$5.00]
There were two sorbet options this evening--mango and raspberry--and I went with the former on account of my server's recommendation. I think he was right. I loved the super intense, juicy, true-to-life flavors of mango here, and how that all worked with the cool edge of the accompanying mint.

Ice wine Inniskillin Cabernet Franc, Canada
I requested a wine pairing with dessert, and was provided a small glass of the Ice wine Inniskillin Cabernet Franc, Canada [$7]. The nose here was as expected, displaying a sugary mix of raisin and cassis, cut by a touch of spicy tartness. Taste-wise, I got more rich, almost candied fruit, contrasted by an omnipresent acidity and sweet spice.

Ichigo
Ichigo [$20.00] | White Chocolate Cup With Pie Crust & Strawberry Mousse Served with Strawberry Candy Filled With Strawberry Sorbet & Condensed Milk Mousse
My first proper dessert was this exquisite composition of strawberry. Starting with the cup, the fruit made perfect sense with its pairing of pie crust, while that lush, buttery white chocolate shell served to fill in the blanks; there were some crispy bits in there for texture, too. As for the "candy," it was fun for sure, and its filling of strawberry sorbet imparted a brightness and levity that was much appreciated. Overall, an eminently balanced, almost subtle dessert.

Chambers Rutherglen Muscadelle, Napa
Next to drink was the Chambers Rutherglen Muscadelle, Napa [$7]. The wine featured robust aromas of rich, raisin-y grape and molasses. On the palate, I found it somewhat tart, with a pleasant acidity and notes of date cake, caramel, and sweet nutmeat.

Tango
Tango [$20.00] | White chocolate high heel With mascarpone & Illy Coffee Mousse, Chocolate Cookie inside Served with Fresh Fruits
I was pretty smitten by the fanciful plating and presentation here. Nonetheless, the dessert was tasty too. Delectable flavors of coffee and nuts meshed beautifully with creamy mascarpone and the acidity of berry fruit, all while the chocolate shoe actually served to temper the dish.

Sweets Raku BathroomSweets Raku Sink
I normally don't photograph restrooms, but this place probably has the most unusual sink I'd ever encountered.

I wish I could've tried more of the desserts here, but I was limited by both time and stomach capacity. That being said, I was quite happy with what I was able to sample. Ogasawara seems to have a knack for putting her own spin on what are some very European-inspired desserts, resulting in some really nuanced, balanced plates that show a certain restraint. If you're dining at Kabuto or any of the other places nearby, Sweets Raku would make for a lovely end to your evening.

é by José Andrés (Las Vegas, NV) [2]

$
0
0
é by José Andrés at The Cosmopolitan
3708 Las Vegas Blvd S, Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.698.7950
www.ebyjoseandres.com
Tue 08/27/2019, 05:30p-08:10p




I remember hearing about é by José Andrés back in late 2010, getting excited about the news, and then immediately making a reservation and booking travel. It turns out that I was actually one of the first to dine at the hidden nine-seater restaurant, and I loved my experience, deeming it "easily one of the top dining destinations in the City." That was over eight years ago, so on my latest trip to Vegas, I made it a point to return. Fortunately, it's a lot easier to dine here now. In place of the cryptic email system they had before, as of April 2017 all you have to do is purchase tickets on Tock, making for a substantially less stressful process. As expected, there's been significant turnover at the restaurant, and the kitchen is now run by Head Chef Eric Suniga.

About the Chef: Eric Joseph Suniga was born in January 1978, and grew up in Chico, CA, where he attended Pleasant Valley High School. Early on in his culinary career, he worked at Thomas Keller's seminal Bouchon in Yountville, as well as the bistro's outpost at The Venetian in Las Vegas (where he met his future wife, Jennifer Garcia). In 2006, Suniga moved to Portland and found employment at New American spot Ten 01; he stayed in the City for four years, but left in March 2010. From there, he returned to Vegas to work for Michael Mina's eponymous Mina Group, a position that involved quite a bit of travel to the company's various properties (including a several month stint at Stonehill Tavern). In late 2010, he was installed at SEABLUE at the MGM Grand, and by February 2011, was made Executive Chef there. After the place shuttered in August 2012, Suniga opened Culinary Dropout at the Hard Rock Hotel, staying there for just under a year. In September 2013, he joined José Andrés' ThinkFoodGroup and became Head Chef at China Poblano at The Cosmo. Following, he headed up Ku Noodle at the SLS, which opened in 2014 but closed in April 2016. This was followed by his current position here at é by José Andrés, which he's had since at least September 2015.

Assisting Suniga in the kitchen this evening were Javier, Kyle, Joel, Danny, and Isidro.

é by José Andrés Interior
The restaurant is located on the third floor of the Cosmo's Boulevard Tower, in the back of Jaleo. Above we see the current appearance of the space, which hasn't changed too much from how it looked when the place opened. However, it does seem that the bar has been updated from its original dark surface to its current shiny, metallic state, and I believe the lighting has been altered as well.

é by José Andrés Menu
Here we have the night's menu, which is presented to diners at the end of the meal. Pricing is $275 a head (compared to a mere $150pp when the place opened), plus $55 for service and $22.69 for tax, making for a total base cost of $352.69. Beverage pairings are offered at $150 (Spanish), $300 (José's), and $500 (Global) a person, though you can certainly order à la carte (see below). Click for a larger version.

é by José Andrés Wine Pairingsé by José Andrés Cocktail Listé by José Andrés Sangria, Sherry, Beer, and Soft Drink Listé by José Andrés Spirits ListJaleo Wines by the Glass ListJaleo Wine List: Generoso/Fortified, Espumoso/Sparkling
Jaleo Wine List: Blanco/WhiteJaleo Wine List: Blanco/White, Rosado/RoséJaleo Wine List: Tinto/RedJaleo Wine List: Tinto/RedJaleo Wine List: Tinto/RedJaleo Wine List: Tinto/RedJaleo Wine List: Global WinesJaleo Wine List: Dulce/Sweet
There's a wide variety of drink options available. é's beverage menu lists cocktails, sangria, beer, and spirits, and you also have access to Jaleo's entire Spanish-focused wine list. Click for larger versions.

Branches of the Desert
1: Branches of the Desert
Before venturing into the restaurant itself, diners were corralled into an area just outside of Jaleo (the "Terrace"). Here, we had an opportunity to mix and mingle for a bit before being served these "branches" of liquefied Kalamata, replete with "leaves" of edible flowers and piquillo pepper purée. The salty nature of the olive was pretty subdued at first, but grew and lingered, tempered just a tad by hints of floral.

Hand Towel
Not too long after, Chef Suniga came out and introduced himself, then took us inside to be seated. After sitting down, we were quickly presented with these warm towels, scented with Mediterranean herbs.

Morning Dew
2: Morning Dew
We then enjoyed a "welcome cocktail" of sorts in the form of these cava sangria spheres, with bits of melon and mint leaf floating around. Due to the spherifications' impossibly delicate skins, they had a wonderful pop to 'em, and conveyed a plethora of zesty, sharp, bitter, boozy notes that did a pretty admirable job imitating the classic beverage.

To drink, I opted for a bottle of wine (which I forgot to photograph) to start: the Blanc de Noirs Reserva, Avinyó, Pinot Noir 2012 [$80]. On the nose there was a huge amount of juicy apple, along with tart plum and a touch of oxidation--it was almost reminiscent of Mott's apple juice. The palate was pleasantly toasty, with a nice depth to it, and had rich notes of berry fruit coming in later. Delish.

Beet Rose
3: Beet Rose
Next up was a selection of three cheeses from Spain. Up first was beet and queso manchego, on a walnut-raisin cracker. Here, the earthy, sugary nature of beet was matched beautifully by the butteriness of the cheese, and I loved the sheer crunchiness of the cracker.

Stone
4: Stone
This was a nugget of queso Idiazábal, covered with jamón ibérico fat and rosemary. I found this soft, creamy, mild, and a bit nondescript actually; I wanted to taste more from the rosemary.

Pizza
5: Pizza
The standout of the threesome was the miniature "pizza," which combined sheep's milk cheese (I don't recall the name unfortunately) with basil and tomato. I was enamored with the savory, cheesy nature of the bite, and how that worked with the herbs and slight tanginess from the tomato. Excellent crunch, too.

Wonderbread
6: Wonderbread
A favorite of mine was this foie gras, strawberry, and apple "sandwich," encased in meringue "bread." I absolutely adored the amazingly airy, ethereal consistency of the meringue, and how it virtually dissolved in the mouth, bringing forth a jammy sweetness cut by the richness of the liver. Like a rarified PB&J.

Pan con Tomate
7: Pan con Tomate
This was another superb one-biter: air bread filled with a tomato-olive oil espuma, topped with jamón ibérico de bellota. I loved the feathery nature of the bread, as well as the manner in which it released that cool, lush espuma, which really captured the essence of the traditional dish. If that wasn't enough, the ham provided a much-appreciated hit of salt.

Uni & Lardo
8: Uni & Lardo
Here we had a sea urchin cracker with ibérico lardo and fresh Hokkaido sea urchin. The cracker itself was fun, imbued with just a whisper of the sweet salinity of uni. This was of course boosted substantially by the actual uni, while the fatback gave the bite another level of luxuriousness.

Pineapple Towel Holder
Pineapple Towel Holder (Uncovered)
Contained in one of those golden pineapple cups (which are all the rage these days) was a small towel with which to wipe our fingers. Said towel was also perfumed with kaffir lime leaf, so it smelled fantastic.

Vermut
9: Vermut
An escabeche preparation of mussel was accompanied by citrus and liquid black olives. What really worked here was how well the brine of the mussels meshed with the sweet-tart, acidic nature of its marinade, while the olives imparted pricks of piquancy to the mix.

Dry Ice Smoke
That's a whole lotta smoke for our next course.

Edible Sangria
10: Edible Sangria
Serving as a sweet interlude was a liquid nitrogen'd red sangria granita with watermelon, cherry spheres, and pineapple mint. It really did taste like the classic libation, and I was pretty smitten with the botanical, bitter, herby flavors here, and how they interacted with the fruit.

Esparragos en Escabeche
11: Esparragos en Escabeche
Another escabeche-inspired course married grated asparagus with Royal Ossetra caviar and egg yolk pearls. I'm a big fan of asparagus, and this was definitely one of the most ambitious preparations I've encountered. The veggie's bitterness and crunch were perfect, and paired gorgeously with the unabashed saltiness of the caviar, while the creaminess of the egg moderated everything.

Txangurro a la Donastiarra
12: Txangurro a la Donostiarra
A rejiggered version of a Basque staple combined king crab with sofrito, along with a vial of crab broth (made from deep-fried, pulverized shells) and a spoon of breadcrumbs. We were instructed to mix it all together, and the end result displayed a fantastic depth and brine and sweetness, while the crumbs provided a wonderful contrast in textures. Yum.

Único, Vega Sicilia, Tempranillo, (Cabernet) 2006 / Alión, Vega Sicilia, Tempranillo 2014
With the sparkling wine drunk up, I asked Robert (the sommelier) to pour a couple glasses of red. First up was the Alión, Vega Sicilia, Tempranillo 2014 [$25], which showed off big, almost jammy aromas of berry fruit, laced with a bit of spice box. On the palate, I found it surprisingly velvety, with unexpectedly subdued tannins, along with plenty more dark fruit, violet, wood, and spice, especially on the finish. The wine was drinking quite well despite its young age. I definitely wanted to try a glass of the Alión's bigger brother as well, the Único, Vega Sicilia, Tempranillo, (Cabernet) 2006 [$125], arguably the most famed Spanish wine of them all. The nose on this one was more restrained in terms of fruit; rather the main thrusts here were earth, mineral, and lots of dry herb. The palate was decidedly more tannic, and displayed more peppery spice, more herbaceous notes, some mushroom-y funk, and a healthy amount of delectable strawberry. This seems like a wine that will just last and last.

Foie Royal
13: Foie Royal
Foie gras was excellent, delivering its refined earthiness in flawless fashion, accompanied by sweet peaches and almonds. My favorite element here, though, was what I believe were fried cubes of potato, which contributed both salt and savor.

Platija
14: Platija
For our fish course, fluke was served with salsa tinta and "Mediterranean flavors" of almond and basil. The platija ate super juicy, with a particularly full-bodied savoriness that was further enhanced by the salinity of squid ink. It was all fairly intense, so the brightness imparted by the basil was much appreciated.

Fricando
15: Fricando
Our final savory course was this take on Catalonian fricandó, a dish of braised beef, made tonight with American wagyu cheek from Nebraska, along with chanterelles. I loved the meat's altogether tender, long-cooked consistency and homey, dark flavors, all perked up by those impossibly light "gnocchi" that just burst in my mouth at the slightest touch.

'Empanada'
16: "Empanada"
Time for dessert. First was the cotton candy "empanada," stuffed with foie gras and CornNuts (yes, the actual commercial product, which the kitchen subsequently toasted). This was a delight, and I especially enjoyed the sheer sugariness of the cotton candy, and how that linked up with the saltiness and crunch of the corn kernels.

Menjar Blanc
17: Menjar Blanc
Featuring a Marcona almond "cloud," elderflower toffee, and frozen cherries, this riff on manjar blanco was my favorite of the desserts. The most interesting thing here was how the cake virtually melted in my mouth, conveying a mix of sweet, nutty flavors in the process. Said flavors just made sense with the tartness of the cherries, and what was also smart was the richness from that toffee. Just make sure to get everything in one bite.

Winter in Vegas
18: Winter in Vegas
Next up was an airy-yet-creamy orange-olive oil sorbet, which was delicious just by itself, but made even better by the crunch of the yogurt snowflake on top.

Intxaursaltsa
19: Intxaursaltsa
Here was a thoroughly reimagined version of intxaursaltsa (a sort of nut-based custard from the Basque region), one incorporating walnut cream and strawberries. The interplay between the nuts and the sweetness in the dish was perfect, and what made this even more fascinating was the almost foie gras-esque richness on the finish.

Cherry Bomb
20: Cherry Bomb
The whimsical "cherry bomb" did indeed provide an explosion of liquid cherry and chocolate flavors, along with a touch of herb; just be sure to pull the fuse out. Along with it came a splendid almond nougat candy, made into an ice cream cup and topped, naturally, with 24 karat gold.

More Things....
21: More Things....
There were indeed more things to come. On the left was a surprisingly briny citrus custard in a thin sugar coat, which provided a bit of a crunch. Next to it was a super light raspberry bonbon, which dissolved easily, leaving a coating of tart berry flavors on the palate. Then we had a carajillo marshmallow, which was filled with spicy, savory coffee flavors.

After 8
22: After 8
Last up: a milk chocolate saffron tablet with Maldon sea salt and chocolate leaves, all set in chocolate soil. Intriguingly, the tablet had an almost crab-like salinity to it that sort of functioned as a foil to the lushness of the chocolate. And embarrassingly, I actually forgot to eat the leaves, since I was in a rush to catch a flight out of McCarran (which I almost missed!).

This place is known to be the spot to go if you're looking for avant garde fare in the City, and é by José Andrés does not disappoint in that regard. It's been over eight years since my last visit here, but the cooking still feels as fun and whimsical and quirky as ever, and I'm pretty sure I'll be back here by the time another eight years roll by. What we're looking at is no doubt one of the premier dining experiences (and I emphasize the experience part) in Las Vegas.

é by José Andrés Golden Ticket

Knife Pleat (Costa Mesa, CA)

$
0
0
Knife Pleat Restaurant at South Coast Plaza
3333 Bristol St, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714.852.3974
www.knifepleat.com
Fri 08/30/2019, 07:45p-11:30p




Knife Pleat Exterior

I last reported on Tony Esnault back in April 2017, when he was running the kitchen over at Church & State, and a lot has changed since then. Just three months after that visit, the restaurant filed for bankruptcy due to a labor lawsuit brought by a former employee. A month later, the Chef and his business partner/spouse Yassmin Sarmadi changed things up at their other spot, Spring, adding a more casual dining room called Springside meant to be used for weekday dinners. In May 2018, it was revealed that the couple would be setting up shop at South Coast Plaza with a new French restaurant called Knife Pleat, while Spring ended up closing that August (following a lease expiration). Then, in April, Church & State shuttered temporarily after being sold to a team that included Chef David Féau, Bill Chait, and Taylor Parsons, and the new C&S dropped in June after a quick revamp. Knife Pleat, meanwhile, bowed just a couple weeks after that, opening its doors on June 27th, and I was curious to check it out.

Knife Pleat Interior
Knife Pleat takes over a third-floor location that was previously home to Florent Marneau's Marché Moderne (which moved to Newport Coast), and Liza and Tim Goodell's Troquet before that. Occupying about 5,000 square-feet and seating around 90 diners, the space has been completely redone, and now sports a sleeker, chicer sort of ambiance.

Knife Pleat MenuKnife Pleat Tasting Menu
The menu features Esnault's take on contemporary French fare, and isn't too dissimilar to what he was putting out as Spring. There's a five-course tasting menu available, though given our large party, we just ended up ordering a bunch of dishes and sharing. Click for larger versions.

Knife Pleat Cocktail & Beer ListKnife Pleat Wines by the Glass & Half Bottles ListKnife Pleat Wine List: Champagne, White WineKnife Pleat Wine List: White WineKnife Pleat Wine List: Rosé, Orange, Red Wine
Knife Pleat Wine List: Red WineKnife Pleat Wine List: Red WineKnife Pleat Wine List: Red WineKnife Pleat Wine List: Red WineKnife Pleat Spirits List
To drink, you get a very French-leaning wine list, along with a half-dozen beers, and a brief cocktail selection that takes inspiration from various fashion labels. Corkage is $40 for each of the first two bottles, and $60 thereafter, though we were able to get one of our corkages comped by purchasing a bottle. Click for larger versions.

Bread
Bread [$2.00 x 3] | individually priced mini baguette, olive bread, or pretzel epi, served with "rodolphe le meunier" butter
The meal kicked off with a sampling of bread. I found the olive bread pleasantly intense, while I wish the baguette were crustier instead of tough. My favorite ended up being the pretzel, which paired up swimmingly with that wonderfully salty Normandy butter.

2002 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut
Beverage-wise, we started with some bubbly, the 2002 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut, which was disgorged in May 2017. It had a creamy, nearly sugary nose brimming with rich pome fruit, with a touch of nuttiness and oxidation underneath. On the palate, I got pleasant acidity and bitterness up front, joined by relatively muted fruit, minerals, and toast. A fitting pairing with the caviar below.

Tsar Nicoulai Reserve
oeuf brouillé
Tsar Nicoulai Reserve [$115.00] | 1 oz tawny brown to platinum hue, large bead, lingering creamy finish
The caviar service tonight was a treat. The roe itself did a great job blending its inherent salinity with an underlying sweetness before finishing long and strong and briny. It was enjoyable just by itself, but was even better when taken with that wonderfully lush, herby, chive-topped oeuf brouillé or those rectangular cuts of toasted brioche. Loved the salt and crunch from the pomme gaufrette, too.

Vegetable Mosaic
Vegetable Mosaic [$21.00] | tomato, eggplant, zucchini, watermelon radish, green bean, carrot, herb vinaigrette, rye chips
One of Esnault's signature dishes is his veggie mosaic, a version of which I'd had at Patina back in the day. The incarnation here, however, was much more rustic in presentation, while flavors were decidedly lighter, brighter.

Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta [$16.00] | brugal añejo rum, chinola, passion fruit, lemon
With the sparkler above dispensed with, we moved into a round of cocktails. Our first conveyed tons of citrus at first blush, when then led to robust fruit flavors that were on the verge of being candied, while a persistent spice occurred in the background and helped even things out.

Chilled Shellfish Salad
Chilled Shellfish Salad [$28.00] | manila clams, cuttlefish, prawns, monterey calamari, vegetable a la grecque, carabinero jus
Here, each item of seafood was distinct, yet everything melded together pretty well, partially thanks to the depth of the accompanying prawn jus, which help bind it all together. The veggies, meanwhile, served as a crisp, tangy counterpoint, and overall the dish had this sort of Mediterranean vibe going on.

Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto [$13.00] | gin, matcha, leche merengada, lemon
This next cocktail was one of the more polarizing ones we tried, but I rather liked it. The focus for me was the sweet, autumnal spiciness in the drink, and how that matched up with the bittersweet notes of green tea. It was a combo that worked for me, especially given the drink's soft, creamy nature.

Steak Tartare
Steak Tartare [$22.00] | cape grim ny strip, olive, celery, cured yolk, pomme gaufrette
The tartar was pretty much spot on. I loved how satisfying the beef was texturally, while the intrinsic savoriness of the meat was augmented by hints of sweet spice, which was a bit interesting. And again, the crispness and salt of the waffle fries were much appreciated.

Supreme
Supreme [$14.00] | mezcal or tequila, cassis, habanero, lime
Next came a cocktail that was a favorite for a couple of my dining companions. I suppose that make sense, given that it was a deft blend of fruit and smoke, perked up by hits of tart lime.

Tomato Salad
Tomato Salad [$18.00] | valdavia farms heirloom tomato, compressed cucumber, 7-herbs, scallion, crème fraiche
Tomatoes here were super juicy, while their flavors were a mixture of sweet and tart. The array of herbs imparted a well-placed brightness and complexity to the dish, while the crème fraîche added a necessary richness and heft that actually helped tie everything together.

Christian Dior
Christian Dior [$16.00] | calvados, pierre ferrand dry curaçao, lemon
This Dior-inspired cocktail certainly looked the fanciest, which I suppose is fitting. Taste-wise, I found it pleasantly fruity from the combination of calvados and triple sec, but cut by a pervasive bitterness and flavors of nuts.

Crudo
Crudo [$19.00] | hiramasa king fish, champagne & black muscat grapes, verjus, lemon puree, quinoa
Yellowtail amberjack made for a clean, lean presentation of crudo. Grapes added an unexpected but not unwelcomed juiciness and acidity, while the quinoa offered up a contrast in texture. My sole concern here was that the lemon was too strong, and tended to overwhelm the fish.

Jeanne Paquin
Jeanne Paquin [$15.00] | armagnac, floc de gascogne, egg white, lemon
The evening's final cocktail went in a boozy, tannic, astringent, drying direction, moderated just a touch by the relative mildness of the egg white.

Lobster Bisque
Lobster Bisque [$19.00] | butter poached maine lobster, organic corn, chanterelles, fennel, chives
The bisque showed off considerable brine and depth from the lobster, set against the sweetness of corn. It was all rather tasty, though I would've liked to have seen more from the advertised fennel and chives.

2012 Philippe Chavy Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
We got back into wine with the 2012 Philippe Chavy Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières. It smelled great, bringing aromas of juicy stone fruit, grass, and flint. On the palate the wine was somewhat weightier, with a pronounced oakiness along with robust pome fruit, some vegetal notes, and a zingy acidity. Nice.

Escargot Ravioli
Escargot Ravioli [$21.00] | wild burgundy escargot, porcini, black garlic, mushroom broth, watercress
Housemade ravioli were excellent, really conveying the richness and herbaceousness you get from a classic preparation of escargot. I liked the extra oomph provided by the mushroom here, but even better was the celery, which added a contrasting sharpness to the dish. Note that was this an individually presented portion, but I could've eaten a whole plate of the stuff!

Mushroom Risotto
Mushroom Risotto [$28.00] | acquarello aged carnaroli rice, chanterelle, black trumpet, lobster & hen of the wood mushrooms, parmesan
I found the risotto thoroughly agreeable. The creaminess and consistency of the parmesan-boosted rice was on point, and I loved the multitextured, multifaceted muskiness of the multiple mushrooms: black trumpet, chanterelle, honshimeji, maitake, and porcini. Chive oil, meanwhile, added just a touch of brightness to the dish. A favorite of mine.

Crescent Farm Duck
Crescent Farm Duck [$44.00] | breast, leg confit, swiss chard, tokyo turnip, amber jewel plums
The duck was also a standout. I started with the aged breast, finding it beautifully seasoned, with one of the best crispy skins I've ever had. Amplified by the use of duck jus, the confit delivered as well, showing off all the rich, deep flavors I wanted, all while the sautéed chard and turnip imparted an excellent bitter contrast. I didn't mind the plums (cooked, fresh, puréed) either, which offered up just a smidge of sweetness.

2001 Domaine Louis Remy Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Our first red was the 2001 Domaine Louis Remy Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru. Mature nose of soil, smoke, and dusty strawberry. I found the wine thin on the palate, and fairly tannic, with flavors of herb, earth, game, and faded berry. This sort of seemed to be on its last legs, so drink 'em if you got 'em.

Rabbit Pasta
Rabbit Pasta [$31.00] | house made strozzapreti, braised rabbit, piquillo peppers, pearl onion, mustard, tarragon, bacon
This pasta course was a crowd pleaser. The rabbit itself was fairly benign, though it did have a heft to it. What made this work was the balance between savory, sweet, and spicy, with the tarragon acting as an effective accent.

Grass Fed New Zealand Lamb Rack
Grass Fed New Zealand Lamb Rack [$46.00] | eggplant, zucchini, tomato, couscous, mint, lemon, harissa
Lamb rack arrived tender and well seared, though I found it somewhat lacking in the flavor department. I was expecting more umami, more seasoning from the meat, though the harissa did impart a punchy spice that I appreciated. Meanwhile, we also had a puff pastry stuffed with braised lamb shoulder, which certainly wasn't deficient in the depth I was looking for, and I was pretty fond of the carrot- and mint-studded couscous, too.

Mediterranean Sea Bass
Mediterranean Sea Bass [$34.00] | tomato, yellow bell peppers, fingerling potatoes, prosciutto, piperade jus
The sea bass was a delight. The fish came out expertly spiced, and I enjoyed its crispy skin and tender, flavorful flesh. Potatoes worked great as an accompaniment, as did the braised peppers, while fried parsley and dill flowers brightened things up.

Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Antonin Guyon 2013 'Les Cras'
Our final wine was the Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Antonin Guyon 2013 "Les Cras" [$150]. I found an engaging nose of robust berry fruit punctuated by herb and smoky soil. The palate was fresh and fairly tannic, and showed tart fruit laced with minerality.

Cape Grim Grassfed Beef Tenderloin
Cape Grim Grassfed Beef Tenderloin [$58.00] | potato boulangère, charred little gem lettuce, cherry tomato, pickled onion
And now we come to our last savory dish of the night. I usually shy away from filets, but this was one of the better ones I've had. I especially enjoyed the crust and seasoning on the steak, and simply how robust it was in the flavor department. Also a standout here was the potato, as well as the charred lettuce, laced with lemon crème fraîche.

Knife Pleat Dessert Menu
Above we see the dessert menu, which is the work of Brittany-born, Paris-trained Pastry Chef Germain Biotteau, an Alain Ducasse alum who's been with Esnault for about four years, since the inception of Spring. Click for a larger version.

Chocolate
Chocolate [$13.00] | chocolate cremeux, cocoa nib tuile, espelette, raspberry-bell pepper sorbet
We made sure to save room for dessert. Our first featured stout cylinders of chocolate cremeux, topped with cacao nib tuiles, and this duet of chocolate made perfect sense when taken with the raspberry (both fresh and coulis). However, the star of the show was that sorbet, which masterfully combined sweet and vegetal flavors, and which linked up surprisingly well with the chocolate.

Tropical
Tropical [$12.00] | vanilla panna cotta, passion fruit coulis, mango, caramelized coconut & sorbet
This next dessert was indeed as tropical as advertised. The panna cotta served as a creamy base to the dish, and I liked the sweet-tart flavors of the passion fruit and mango, while the coconut meringues imparted a great textural component. I got an overarching herbaceousness here that definitely worked, too.

Fig
Fig [$12.00] | orange meringue, fig cream, balsamic reduction, fig sorbet
This plate did a wonderful job showing off fig in different forms: fresh fig, fig cream, fig coulis. The fruit was tempered by the meringue, while the balsamic sorbet added a palpable zippiness to the dessert, as did the sprinkles of lemon and orange zest.

Caramel
Caramel [$14.00] | v.s.o.p. cognac mousse, almond cake & crumble, caramel cream & ice cream
Next was no doubt one of the best caramel-based desserts I've ever had. I just loved how well both the caramel cream and caramel ice cream married with the slight salt of the almond cake 'n' crumbles. The cognac, meanwhile, imparted a certain gravitas to things, while the tuile on top mixed things up texturally. This was our favorite of the desserts, and in fact, it was so good we actually ordered another!

Cherry
Cherry [$14.00] | pistachio cake & chantilly, bing cherry, cardamom ice cream
Our last dessert was a winner as well. Pistachio was conveyed in three ways--candied, chantilly, and cake--and the sheer nuttiness present just made sense with the sweetness of the cherries. My favorite part, though, was that ice cream, which did a fantastic job demonstrating the spicy and somewhat astringent nature of cardamom.

Meringues
To close: vanilla and raspberry meringues.

I was a bit bummed to learn about Esnault's departure from both Church & State and Spring, so it was good to see him back in action. In fact, the Chef seems happier, more confident than ever, and I think he's at a good place. He's doing some commendable work in the kitchen here, and in certain ways, the cooking reminds me of Spring's, which isn't a bad thing. Knife Pleat's a worthy addition to the Orange County dining scene, and really, the OC could use a place like this.

Bee Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

$
0
0
Bee Taquería
5754 W Adams Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016
323.452.9575
www.beetaqueria.com
Tue 09/17/2019, 08:00p-11:45p




Bee Taqueria Exterior

You might recall that I visited Alex Carrasco's Bee Taqueria back in August, shortly after the place opened. At the end of my previous post, I mentioned that the Chef would be instituting a "taco omakase" menu on September 10th, and somewhat surprisingly, such a thing actually came to fruition right on schedule. The experience is available via reservation only, and said reservations can be found on Resy. There are both 6:00pm and 8:00pm seatings--with up to four people per seating--and the cost is $50 a head.

Bee Taqueria Omakase Table
The "tacomakase" takes place at a special table situated right next to the kitchen.

Taco Placero
1: Taco Placero
Things commenced with what the Chef described as a "farmers' market" taco, one incorporating roasted pork belly, white bean purée, queso fresco, cilantro, pipicha, and pitiona, all on a white heirloom tomato tortilla. It was a great start. The pork was delicious alone, but what really made this work was how it meshed with the creamy, relatively mild nature of the white bean, all while the trio of herbs added the perfect amount of contrasting brightness. All the various elements here just came together beautifully, and I loved the moderating effect of the tortilla, too. Note also the accompanying charred salsa, which we used throughout the meal.

2016 New Glarus R&D Champ Du Blanc
We enjoyed a number of beers tonight, and first was the 2016 New Glarus R&D Champ Du Blanc, a blend of aged, spontaneously-fermented sour blonde ales with Chardonnay grapes. Nose here was tart and acidic, with vinous, earthy notes showing through. Palate was dry and effervescent, with flavors of funk, Chard, and hint of oak backed by a persistent sourness.

Yin Yang Taco
2: Yin Yang Taco
Next up was certainly one of the more whimsically-monikered tacos I've encountered. We had a squid ink tortilla topped with a "yin" comprising huitlacoche, bottarga, chile poblano, garlic, onion, cotija, cilantro, and epazote, while the "yang" was quesillo and camembert. It was a superb match, as I loved how the richness and smoke of the corn smut linked up with the cheesy, garlicky notes in the dish, the whole experience punctuated by hits of sourness and spice.

2018 Bottle Logic The Lost Colony
Created in collaboration with Safety Team Brewing out of Richmond, VA, the 2018 Bottle Logic The Lost Colony was an imperial porter brewed with pecans and walnuts, aged in rum and bourbon barrels with Madagascar vanilla, then finished with Fortunato cacao nibs and toasted pecans. The beer smelled of dark fruit, oak, nuts, light cocoa, a bit of toffee, and rum. In terms of taste, I got chocolate syrup, stewed fruit, bitter nuts, and tobacco-y spice, backed by boozy rum and layered with overarching vanilla, while the finish was all bourbon.

'Flowers of Every Day'
3: "Flowers of Every Day"
Here we had a taco inspired by the numerous bugambilia plants surrounding the restaurant. Carrasco made a pink mole out of the flowers (with white chocolate, white sesame seeds, and pink pecans), and paired it with marinated chicken breast, spinach, and garlic blossoms, all atop a bougainvillea tortilla. The mole was pretty spot on, giving up a multifaceted sweet 'n' savory flavor profile that matched up seamlessly with the spice and seasoning of the tinga-esque chicken. At the same time, I appreciated the slight tartness from the flowers, while the onions provided an even stronger accent.

2017 Jester King Spon 1
Inspired by Belgian lambic, the 2017 Jester King Spon 1 was a blend of spontaneously-fermented, oak-aged ales from three different vintages (2014-2016), refermented in the bottle for nine months. The beer smelled fantastic, giving up aromas of sour suanmei and stone fruit, with mango coming in later. Tasting it, I got fresh stone fruit flavors at first, leading to more tartness and funk, with a tinge of oak. Very nice.

Roasting Bone Marrow
At this point, the Chef brought out some bone marrow, which was subsequently roasted tableside with red onion and chile de árbol.

Rib Eye Taco
4: Rib Eye Taco
Said marrow was used in our next course, where it was combined with dry-aged rib eye, avocado purée, lime, and chapulines. The beef itself was spot on, and really showed off the depth and funk you get from dry-aging. The meat paired beautifully with the acidity in the taco, as well as the lushness of avocado, all while the grasshoppers imparted a sour, spicy accent to things. Yum.

2019 Bottle Logic Bastion of Reason
Next to imbibe came the 2019 Bottle Logic Bastion of Reason, an imperial stout aged in bourbon barrels and finished with roasted peanuts and Ghanaian and Ecuadorian cacao nibs, created in collaboration with San Diego's Pure Project Brewing. The nose on the beer was pretty stupendous, with boatloads of sweet nutmeat all over the place. Taste-wise, think much more of that sweet peanut butter, evened out by notes of cocoa, oak, and bourbon. Delish, and excellent with the dessert below.

'Tilarin and Marzipan'
5: "Tilarin and Marzipan"
Dessert was inspired by Carrasco's childhood memories of eating candy while watching television on the sofa. We had here a panna cotta with chocolate and a touch of coffee, marzipan cookies made with almonds and pork fat, as well as meringue-like crisps infused with beets and carrots. The panna cotta itself had a nice nuttiness to it, along with a trace of caramel, and worked hand-in-hand with the cookie crumbles. Also key was the greenery, which imparted a welcomed mintiness that really lifted the dish.

2017 The Bruery Terreux Bourgogne Noir
Our final beverage was the 2017 Bruery Terreux Bourgogne Noir, an ale co-fermented with Pinot Noir grape must as well as fresh grapes, then aged in French oak puncheons. It had a fairly subtle nose of tangy, vinous red fruit, with a bit of oak in there. The palate I found tart and tannic, showing off more of those fruity, wine-like notes along with a touch of herbaceousness.

Chilaquiles
Chilaquiles [$5.00]
We ended up adding on an order of chilaquiles, which were almost nacho-like here, and comprised the tortillas used in the Chef's "media luna" taco, along with an ancho-morita-tomatillo-garlic sauce, cheese, avocado, and onion. It was a very satisfying conclusion to our meal. The various flavors came together well, and I was especially fond of the salsa, the heft of the queso, and of course the zestiness of those onions.

I certainly enjoyed my last meal at Bee, but with this omakase experience, the Chef has really taken his cooking up a notch, and these could very well be the most ambitious tacos I've ever had. According to Carrasco, he aims to update the menu every month or so, and thus I could definitely see myself coming back to check out his new creations. Other than that, I believe he still plans to start serving housemade churros and institute a "Taco Tuesday" program, so plenty more to come.
Viewing all 1450 articles
Browse latest View live


Latest Images