Sushi Note (Sherman Oaks, CA)

September 27, 2019, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Maydan (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Bee Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

$

0

0

Sushi Note
13447 Ventura Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 91423
818.802.3443
www.sushinotela.com
Fri 09/27/2019, 08:30p-11:15p



The San Fernando Valley is home to a lot of sushi restaurants, but Sushi Note, which opened last July in the former home of the late Toshio Shikami's Bizen, stands out due to its unique focus on wine. That focus makes sense when you take a look at the owners.

The place is largely the work of David Gibbs, one of the partners behind Augustine (along with Matthew Kaner and Dustin Lancaster) and Mirabelle Wine Bar (with Nick Caballero), and part of the creative team behind Syd Norman’s Pour House, a bar concept onboard Norwegian Cruise Lines. Joining Gibbs in this venture is Silvia Gallo, head bartender at Augustine, as well as Andrew "Andy" Paxson, co-founder of the Simplethings fast casual mini-chain and The Bourbon Room in Hollywood.

To run the kitchen, the trio has brought on Head Chef Kiminobu Saito, former co-owner of the longstanding 4 on 6 in Encino, which had closed in May 2017. Meanwhile, joining Saito-san behind the bar is Takeshi Matsuzaki from the now-shuttered Tama Sushi in Studio City.



As for the menu, the restaurant has a fairly typical selection of dishes, and you can certainly order à la carte, but we were strictly here for the flagship omakase, which is priced at a reasonable $90 a head. Do pay attention to the specials on the blackboard, too. Drink-wise, you get probably the most impressive wine list I've seen at a sushi place. Curated by sommeliers Patrick Kimberlin (SLS Beverly Hills) and Andrew Pattison (NoMad, Wally's), it leans slightly French. There's even a wine pairing offered. And if wine's not your thing, you'll also find a small array of sakes and beers. Corkage is $25. Click for larger versions.


To drink, we started with some well-priced Champagne, the Louis Roederer 'Cristal', Brut, 1999 [$350]. The wine had an amazing nose featuring loads of barnyard and lactic funk, joined by touches of tropical fruit and toast--it smelled like a cheese plate, and I mean that in the best way possible. As for the palate, I found it deep, rich, concentrated, showing off sweet pome fruit, brioche, and minerals while the back end exhibited a distinct herbaceousness. This was delicious, vivacious, and very likely my favorite bottle of Cristal that I've had.


1: Miso Soup | green onion, tofu, dashi
Our meal commenced with some misoshiru, a pretty classic, cozy preparation with a particularly strong zestiness from the green onion.


2: Kuro Edamame | sea salt
The edamame was about what you'd expect, with a nice saltiness that I appreciated.


3: Goma Tofu | sesame, hacchou miso, gold leaf
A demisphere of housemade sesame tofu ate mild and nutty, while the dark-toned miso imparted an impressive sweet-savory depth to the dish.


Next came a bottle of Burgundy that we'd brought, the Paul Pernot, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, 2013. The wine smelled fantastic, giving up boatloads of ripe, juicy grapefruit and peach; in fact, one of my dining companions even likened it to a hazy IPA. In terms of taste, think grassy and lemony and spicy, with a tinge of oxidation on the back end. Superb--probably my favorite white wine of the year.


4: Tennentai | Wild Japanese Red Snapper
The parade of sushi began with a lovely rendition of snapper. The fish came out clean and mild at its core, but was punctuated by pops of salt and sour, while the zing of wasabi made itself known throughout the finish.


5: Isaki | Grunt
The chicken grunt was another fresh 'n' clean fish, and worked swimmingly with its accompaniment of sour-spicy yuzukosho, while the 'sabi once again brought up the rear.


6: Kinmedai | Alfonsino
Golden eye snapper had an excellent chew to it, along with strong soy-boosted flavors that really meshed well with the shari here.


At this point, we had Pattison pair some wines for us, and he kicked things off with the R. López de Heredia 'Viña Tondonia Reserva', White Blend, Rioja, Spain, 2005 [$???]. The wine had a decidedly mature nose, one that veered stone fruit-y, mineral-driven, and oxidative, but also showed off tons of mustard seed. The palate, meanwhile, was soft and round, with more mustard blending with prominent spice and some fruit 'n' nuts. If you're wondering about the "$???" above, we were charged a total of $80 for three pours of this and the 'Sensation' below, but the cost wasn't broken down on the bill.


7: Maguro | Bluefin Tuna, Spain
Akami had its considerable amount of umami countered by the heat of wasabi, while the coolness of the rice was especially apparent here.


8: Toro | Bluefin Fatty Tuna, Spain
Tuna belly was super soft to the bite, its unabashedly fatty, oily flavors complemented by a liberal dosing of soy.


Next came a glass of the Domaine du Pélican 'Trois Cepage', Red Blend, Jura, France, 2017 [$10], which went nicely with the tuna above. A blend of 65% Pinot Noir, 30% Trousseau, and 5% Poulsard, the wine had a decidedly gamy nose with lots of dry herb and traces of red fruit. In terms of taste, I found it softer than expected, with tart berry fruit up front and more of that herbaceousness coming in on the mid-palate and lingering long.


9: Buri | Wild Japanese Yellowtail
Wild yellowtail from Kyushu conveyed some lean, focused, almost austere flavors that were complemented by the application of soy and wasabi. Great texture on this one, too.


10: Hotate | Scallop, Japan
A silky sweet scallop was augmented by the application of lemon and earthy truffle salt. Excellent with the preceding Bâtard-Montrachet.


11: Gravlax | Cured Salmon, Scotland
And now we come to the most unconventional nigiri of the night, largely thanks to its marriage of sour cream and wasabi. Though unusual, it was also effective, as the combo really did work over a backdrop of the fish, and I especially enjoyed how the wasabi basically served as a replacement for the traditional pairing of dill.


12: Sanma | Pike Mackerel
Pike mackerel was a delight, its combination of brine and sweetness linking up beautifully with that dollop of ginger on top, all while the rice served as an especially crucial contrast.


13: Uni | Sea Urchin, Japan
Hokkaido sea urchin displayed its signature meshing of oceany brine and almost fruity sweetness, the soy serving as an accent.


Pattison then brought out a half bottle of Chateau Musar, Red Blend, Lebanon, 1998 [$85] to go with the heavier courses to follow. Aromas here were of bright red fruit with some rustic, meaty notes. The palate brought cherries and stewed fruit set against a backdrop of tartness, acidity, and earth.


Nasu Miso [$6.00] | fried eggplant with miso glaze
Eggplant came out well-textured, though overly sweet for my liking. In fact, one of my dining companions even described the taste here as being like an "eggplant-y churro."


14: Torotaku Roll | toro, pickled radish, wasabi
A temaki featuring toro and takuan was pretty great, since the crunch and acidity of the radish really worked wonders against the heft of the fish.


Kinoko Itame [$8.00] | assorted sautéed mushrooms, balsamic soy sauce
A hodge-podge of mushrooms resulted in multifaceted textures and flavors that, unfortunately, went overly sweet for me.


15: Itoyori | Threadfin Bream
In this rather sauce-y presentation of golden threadfin bream, tangy ponzu and zesty scallion gave way to the unmistakable heat of wasabi on the finish.


3oz A5 Wagyu Ribeye - Miyazaki [$55.00]
Miyazaki wagyu was as rich and fatty and supple as expected, but unfortunately the beef was a bit overshadowed by all the other elements on the plate.


Our final wine was another Champagne, the Vincent Couche 'Sensation', Extra Brut, 1999 [$???]. A 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, I believe this was just disgorged last year. The nose here was rife with yellow fruit, but with a trace of oxidation and just a smidge of honey. The palate was definitely on the rich, creamy side, and had flavors of sweet brioche joined by tropical fruit and a backbone of minerality. Very nice.


16: Amaebi | Sweet Shrimp, Japan
The sweet shrimp was just as lush and sweet as I wanted, but with zippy wasabi keeping things interesting.


Black Cod [$15.00] | soy sauce, mirin, sake, ginger, lemon
Gindara was pretty textbook, a luxurious, buttery fish with plenty of savory-sweet flavors to go around.


Kamasu [$7.00] | Barracuda
Kamasu was taken up a notch by the piquancy of the scallion, while the finish on the fish was simultaneously clean but spicy.


Kochi [$7.00] | Flathead
The flat-head was a lean, firm fish with a relatively subdued flavor profile that took well to its brushing of soy, while the wasabi added further interest to the bite.


Anago [$8.00] | Sea Eel, Japan
We ended with the sea eel, which was spot on texturally, and had a great citrusy accent to go along with its sweet-savory nature. A fitting closer.

Our meal tonight managed to be one of the most memorable sushi experiences I've had. Though the sushi itself was certainly commendable, what really made this special was the wine, and not only how good the wine was, but how well it actually paired with everything we ate. Wine is almost always overcooked in sushi bars, so it was great to see the team here try to change that.

---

Maydan (Washington, DC)

September 30, 2019, 6:55 pm

≫ Next: Rooster & Owl (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Sushi Note (Sherman Oaks, CA)

$

0

0

Maydān Restaurant
1346 Florida Ave NW, Washington, DC 20009
202.370.3696
www.maydandc.com
Mon 09/30/2019, 06:55p-09:00p





Yep, I'm back in DC once again. So during a meal at Reverie back in May, a couple sitting next to me recommended that I try out Maydan, but warned me that it'd be tough to secure a reservation. And indeed it was. I couldn't find any availability, but undeterred, decided to just walk in and sit at the bar, which worked out just swell. Situated in Cardozo, Maydan translates roughly to "gathering place" in a number of Mideast-area languages, and fittingly, the restaurant focuses on the live-fire cooking of the Middle East, North Africa, and the Caucasus. The spot opened on November 21, 2017 to considerable fanfare, and is the work of restaurateur Rose Previte and co-Executive Chefs Gerald Addison and Chris Morgan.

About the Owner: Born to a Lebanese-Sicilian family, Rose Michele Previte hails from Ada, Ohio, and grew up helping out at her mother's catering business and later restaurant, as well as her father's sausage cart. After finishing up at Lima Central Catholic High School, she attended Ohio Northern University, majoring in PR and Spanish (and studying abroad in Spain). During this period, she interned for a human rights organization in Washington, but also waitressed at Politiki, where she met future husband David Greene. Following graduation in 2003, she moved to DC to find employment in the public policy sphere, and also tended bar at Politiki's replacement, Pour House, for over six years.

Previte eventually enrolled at George Mason University, achieving a master's in public policy in 2007. Shortly thereafter, she got married to Greene, and began working at the Arlington County Manager's Office before moving with her new husband to New York for a short stint. In November 2009, the couple relocated to Moscow, as Greene (by this time an NPR journalist) was sent on assignment. The two traveled extensively while they were there, and she even documented her adventures in a blog: Rambling Rosa. They returned to DC in January 2012, and Previte soon linked up with Mike Schuster (her former boss at Pour House) to begin working on a business plan for Compass Rose; a lease was signed that October.

Focused on global street food, the restaurant opened on April 17, 2014 with Chef John Paul Damato at the helm, and was a success. Said success caught the eye of Douglas Development in 2016, and the developer offered them a spot inside Shaw's Manhattan Laundry building, an 1887-era warehouse that was being converted into mixed-use. She partnered up with Schuster again, as well as attorney Andy Lacy, but was in need of a chef. Turns out Previte had been talking about opening a restaurant with one Chris Morgan for years, and Morgan had wanted to open a place with his buddy Gerald Addison. The three then got together, and the team behind Maydan was thus formed.

About the Chefs: Gerald Addison grew up in Adams Morgan and Cleveland Park, the sons of parents who worked in the art world. He got his first real restaurant job in 2003, when he was 15, working a summer at Nora Pouillon's eponymous Restaurant Nora. From there, he moved to New York in 2007 to attend culinary school, then worked at both Alta and Geoffrey Zakarian's The National. In 2012, he went out to California and spent a couple years there before returning to DC to become sous at Derek Brown's Eat the Rich. Following, Addison opened A Baked Joint as head chef in June 2015, and later worked as CdC at Parts & Labor in Baltimore. He then cooked briefly at Jack Rose Dining Saloon, and ended up joining Previte at Compass Rose in January 2017.

Chris Morgan grew up in McClean, VA, and attended the University of Barcelona (c/o 2009) and the University of North Carolina at Wilmington (c/o 2010), majoring in economics. After realizing that he wanted to cook for a living, he spent time in Los Angeles, Portland, and San Francisco. Starting out at Judy Rogers' famed Zuni Cafe, he then opened Company in September 2012 with mentor Karen Hoffman, eventually working his way up to the position of sous before leaving to work under Melissa Perfit at Charles Phan's Hard Water. During this period, Morgan also attended the California Culinary Academy (August 2012 - May 2013), and took classes at the San Francisco Wine School. He returned to DC in 2013 and became exec sous for Ed Witt at The Partisan before joining Jeremiah Langhorne as part of the opening team at The Dabney. After a tenure as EC of McClellan's Retreat, he was invited by former employer Nathan Anda to become head chef for the Red Apron Group. Following a stint at Parts & Labor with Addison, Morgan joined his colleague as Co-Executive Chef of Compass Rose in June 2017.

Previte and her Chefs quickly decided that they wanted to pursue a live-fire Middle Eastern concept, and soon embarked on a research trip to Morocco, Tunisia, Georgia, Lebanon, and Turkey. They also learned under local Iranian cook Najmieh Batmanglij. Maydan bowed in November 2017, and was a success from pretty much the start. In February 2018, it was deemed a "Best New Restaurant" semifinalist by James Beard. April saw a "Restaurant of the Year" nod from Food & Wine and a "Best New Restaurants in America" award from GQ. Then, in August 2018, Maydan was named one of Bon Appetit's "Best New Restaurants." The next month, the restaurant received a Bib Gourmand from Michelin, then got a proper star the following year in the 2020 guide.


Maydan was penned by Michelle Bove, head of local firm designCASE. The space spans about 3,000 square-feet, and holds roughly 100 diners. I was at the 16-seater lower level bar, which is right in front of the restaurant's circular, wood-fired hearth (which uses both white oak and charcoal from what I understand).


Above we see Maydan's pan-Mideast menu, featuring the Chefs' takes on the region's staples. To go along, we have a small array of theme-appropriate cocktails, a handful of beers, and a wine list focused on the Mediterranean region. The beverage program was initially developed by Said Haddad, but he left in December 2018, so I'm actually not sure who's running things now. Corkage is advertised at $35 a pop. Click for larger versions.


Beiruti Hummus [$8.00] | Tomato, parsley, green pepper, scallion
I felt compelled to start with Maydan's take on hummus, a particularly smooth preparation that was brightened up by tart tomatoes and zesty greens. A smart variation of the more ubiquitous version of the dish.


Zahra [$14.00] | Joven Mezcal, Sumac, Lemon
The evening's first cocktail was sweet and refreshing, showing off overarching floral notes and barely a trace of booziness from the mezcal. The sumac, meanwhile, made its piquancy known on the back end, but in a delicate fashion.


The restaurant provides unlimited servings of its toné flatbread, ostensibly an amalgamation of various breads from the region that's cooked on the walls of a clay oven for around a minute. It had this very familiar sort of flavor profile to it, one that was almost reminiscent of saltines. It worked well as a vessel for the spread above, though I would've liked it softer and fluffier.


Cabbage [$6.00] | Dried mint, lemon, olive oil
The slaw was a winner. I loved the cabbage's bitter crunch and how it meshed with the almost sumac-like tartness present. A fitting foil to some of the heavier dishes to follow.


Azamara Club [$14.00] | Blanco Tequila, Sotol, Lime, Orange, Cucumber, Black Salt
This next cocktail displayed plenty of smoky, boozy, vegetal elements, all set against a healthy dosing of heat and spice. I also got a pervading citric sourness, while the finish had a palpable heat to it.


Swordfish Kebab [$18.00] | Orange, onion, butter, cilantro
This was probably my favorite dish of the night, and really one of the best preparations of swordfish I've had. The fish came out super juicy and way more supple than usual, while seasoning, smoke, spice were spot on. Delish.


Toum [$1.00] | Garlic, oil, lemon
Zhough [$1.00] | Parsley, cilantro, cumin, serrano
To accompany the food, I requested two of my favorite condiments. The toum seemed slightly creamier, slightly thicker than usual, and was fairly mild at first, but then the garlickiness definitely crept up on me, but in a good way. We also had the zhug, which had a wonderful brightness and vibrancy to it, along with considerable depth and a lingering heat.


My Religion Is Love [$14.00] | Aviation Gin, Watermelon, Lemon, Hops
The quaffable cocktail showed off the restrained fruitiness of watermelon, with gin botanicals peeking through. The hops, meanwhile, contributed a bitter, grassy, floral layer to the drink that helped keep things interesting.


Shrimp [$18.00] | Dried lime, tamarind, chile
Shrimp were well-cooked and well-textured, and had a robust brine that was cut by a proper amount of smoke and spice, as well as a permeating nutty element in the dish. Very nice.


Saffron Lamb [$13.00] | Yogurt, turmeric, citrus
Lamb had a superb char and sear to it, along with subdued saffron and a good amount of game, all while that minty salad on the side helped for contrast. My quibble here was that the meat could've been more tender.


MEA (Middle East Airlines) [$14.00] | Rye Whiskey, Brandy, Arak, Lemon, Grenadine
The night's final cocktail was the heftiest of the bunch. I found it citrusy and bittersweet on the nose, while the palate brought loads of anise, commingled with the sweetness of grenadine.


Aleppo [$12.00] | Ground lamb, pistachio
Our final savory brought an aggressively seasoned lamb kebab, one teeming with acerbic, spicy notes and the nuttiness of pistachio. It was an intriguing mish-mash of flavors, and went great with the herb salad on the side. However, my concern here was that the meat was too monolithic in terms of consistency; I wanted something grittier, more rustic.


Cheesecake [$10.00] | Oat cookie, blueberry sauce
There's no written dessert menu at Maydan, so my three options were presented verbally: almond milk pudding, namoura cake, and this "cheesecake" that I got, which was made with labneh that'd been cooked down and filtered. I found it a really smart interpretation of the traditional dish. The actual "cheese" part was super thick and creamy, with a sweet, nutty bent, and went beautifully with the saltiness of those crumbles. The fruit then contributed an offsetting tartness, and overall things just came together beautifully.



At the end of the meal, my bartender graciously provided a complimentary serving of El Massaya Arak, which served as a proper digestif. As expected, I got massive amounts of anise here, but also layers of sweetness and grapiness and heat underneath. Also note the cloudiness of the drink when combined with filtered water and/or ice, a result of the louche effect wherein essential oils are released.

There's been a lot of buzz surrounding Maydan, and after eating here, I can see why. The cooking's classic at its core, but the Chefs manage to mix things up just enough, and of course we can't forget about their measured application of smoke and char to the food, which adds its own unique charms. The space itself is worth noting as well, and I have to say that the service was totally on point to boot. It all comes together to make for a lovely experience, and I guess I'm not the only one who thinks so, as the restaurant ended up receiving its first Michelin star the very day after this meal.

Rooster & Owl (Washington, DC)

October 2, 2019, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Gravitas (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Maydan (Washington, DC)

$

0

0

Rooster and Owl Restaurant
2436 14th Street NW, Washington, DC 20009
202.813.3976
www.roosterowl.com
Wed 10/02/2019, 08:15p-10:15p





During my last visit to DC, the fine folks at Bresca named Rooster & Owl when I asked them for restaurant recommendations, so here I am. The Columbia Heights eatery is the work of Executive Chef/Owner Yuan Tang and his wife Carey Tang (née Russell), and apparently the name of the place was inspired by the duo's opposite work schedules (he works during the night and she during the day). R&O opened on February 7th this year, and serves vegetable-focused contemporary American fare drawing from a wide range of culinary influences.

About the Chef: Yuan Lung Tang was born in November 1982 in Hong Kong, but his family moved to Virginia after he turned 10. He grew up in Falls Church, and, along with his sister, spent considerable time at his parents' Chinese restaurant, where he started out answering phones before beginning to cook at age 14. Tang graduated from J.E.B. Stuart High School in 2000, then enrolled at George Mason University, where he achieved a B.S. in accounting in 2005. In January 2006, he began working as a federal auditor at Kearney & Company, and during his tenure there, was able to eat well on the company's dime when he went on business trips. This helped rekindle his interest in food, and he ended up leaving his job in 2009. Following, Tang moved to New York to attend culinary school, but those plans soon fell through, as he was quickly offered a position at Sohui Kim's The Good Fork in Brooklyn. He cooked there from June 2009 to May 2010, then moved to Danny Meyer's The Modern (May 2010-Feb 2011) and Jean-Georges (Feb 2011-Feb 2012) before becoming sous at John Fraser's Dovetail. Apparently, Tang also had side hustles in catering and wine sales during this period.

The Chef eventually relocated to Washington when Carey was offered a job in the area, and the move also made sense given that the two wanted to be closer to home, in case they planned to start a family. In August 2014, he began working as sous chef at Ashok Bajaj's longstanding 701 Restaurant in Penn Quarter, then cooked at RJ Cooper's ambitious Rogue 24 (where Carey also worked as a head waiter). Rogue ended up shuttering in January 2016, and the Tangs started the pop-up version of Rooster & Owl the following month, with assistance from Kickstarter. Held with Pastry Chef Corey Jamison (another 701 alum who also spent time at Fiola and Gramercy Tavern), these pop-ups ran for a couple years (during which time the Chef also catered and drove for Uber) before the couple was able to launch their brick-and-mortar location earlier this year.

GM duties at Rooster & Owl are handled by Carey, who also works for Children’s National Hospital during the day, while Ben Byron (Siren by RW) is on board as Manager. In the back-of-the-house, Tang is assisted by Sous Chef Sean Tew, a former construction worker and Art Institutes grad who previously cooked at Spike Gjerde's A Rake's Progress and Fig & Olive. Meanwhile, Olivia Green serves as Pastry Chef, and comes to the restaurant from Tosca, Kinship/Métier, Slipstream, and District Doughnut.


Rooster & Owl takes over the old home of Tegist Ayalew's Creme (Jul 2014-Jun 2018), which, curiously, also housed Daniel Labonne's La Bonne Bistro pop-up from June to December 2015. The space was redone by local firm HapstakDemetriou+, and features plenty of earthy tones, as well as bird-themed trinkets and the Chef's cookbook collection. Total capacity is around 50.


As for the menu, the conceit here is that diners are supposed to build their own four-course tasting menu, which is then shared amongst the table: a "social, shared dining experience" according to the restaurant. Pricing is $65 a head (with additional courses costing a very reasonable $10), plus $35/$55 for a beverage/wine pairing. I opted for cocktails this evening, and though the program here was initially designed by Jason Swaringen (Green Zone, McClellan's Retreat, Gypsy Soul, Rogue 24, Quill at The Jefferson), he ended up leaving in July. His replacement goes by the name of Edgar (an alum of Arroz at the Marriott Marquis as well as Jaleo Bethesda), and was the one serving me tonight for the most part. Corkage is $25. Click for larger versions.


Cider Aperitivo [$15.00] | The Botanist Gin, infused ciders, honey, bitters
My first cocktail was certainly on the apéritif-y side. It smelled earthy and vegetal, with an anise edge, but the taste was altogether different: tart and fruity and boozy, laced with gin botanicals and finished by sugary notes of honey.


In lieu of standard bread, you get the restaurant's take on boluo bao, or pineapple bun. Topped with a crisp, sugary crust, it really did recall the classic pastry, and paired gorgeously with a super funky housemade cultured butter (perhaps a nod to the boluo you variant of the bun).


1: Kanpachi | finger lime, elderflower, pecan
Dense shards of amberjack were enhanced by the application of a savory, woodsy, whiskey barrel-aged, elderflower-boosted white soy. If that wasn't enough, the pecans imparted a wondrous nuttiness to the dish, especially in terms of aroma, and I loved the sour pops from the finger lime vesicles. A superb start--really smart.


Sherry Rose [$15.00] | Manzanilla Sherry, cappelletti, lillet rose
This next cocktail was a winner. I got loads of juicy citrus on the nose, with a touch of oxidation. Taste-wise, think nutty and chocolate-y at first blush, but leading to a bitterness and vegetal character on the back end, all tarted up by a hint of suanmei-esque piquancy. Neat.


2a: Shiitake Larb | butter lettuce, puffed rice, apple
Served warm, shiitakes were complemented by roasted garlic and hazelnut oil, as well as the citric, herbaceous nuances you'd expect from a classic larb. Puffed rice, meanwhile, offered up a great change-up in texture, while sesame sauce-dressed apples worked for further contrast. It was a tasty dish, though I would've liked to have seen some more aggressive seasoning.


2b: Crispy Pig Ear [+$10.00] | kohlrabi, ranch, peanut
This almost seemed like a General Tso's-style preparation of pig ear due to its sweetness, and in fact the ear was overly sweet for my taste. Fortunately, the raw kohlrabi and celery did help rein things in, as did the peanut, while that creamy buttermilk ranch worked to bring everything together.


Laotian Lemonade [$15.00] | Absolut Elyx, galangal, manzanilla, cucumber, lemon
The lone long cocktail of the night, this was refreshing and tart initially, but had the spicy burn of galangal lingering long on the finish, joined by whispers of sherry. A good match with the Asian-y courses above.


2c: Duck Dirty Rice [+$10.00] | duck confit, scallion
The dirty rice was a favorite. The bird itself was near-falling-apart tender, with plenty of deep, earthy, ducky flavors, and I loved the brightness imparted by the onions. Just a really cozy, satisfying dish that I'd want to eat again and again.


3: 'Picio e Pepe' | XO sauce, anchovy bread crumb
Strands of pici were thick and substantial, with a definite chew. There was a very robust brine to the dish thanks to those breadcrumbs, as well as a marked nuttiness. Unfortunately, the pasta didn't really convey the deep, multifaceted umami notes you typically find with XO.


Peking Old Fashioned [$15.00]
At this point, Edgar proceeded to make me an off-menu cocktail (though it was supposedly slated to go on the menu the next day). What we had here was duck fat-washed rye with five spice syrup, black walnut bitters, and Angostura. It smelled of savory spice intertwined with citrus, while the palate was viscous, bringing forth the heft of the duck alongside notes of sweet spice, caramel, and toffee, the whole thing backed by plenty of boozy, bitter elements. A strong effort.


4: Coffee Cake | red kuri squash, chai, caramel
For dessert, we had one of the best coffee cakes I've tasted. The back-and-forth between the coffee caramel and the chai namelaka was spot on, and I also appreciated the sweetness of that squash sorbet. What was interesting was that, when I took it all in together, the overall effect reminded me of pumpkin pie, which was very apropos for the season.


A bittersweet raspberry-prosecco gummy served as the mignardise course.


"Unnamed Dessert Cocktail"
To close: a complimentary dessert cocktail (from the beverage pairing) comprising Martell VSOP Red Barrel, Pasubio Vino Amaro, Tempus Fugit crème de cacao, and citrus-spiced honey syrup. The nose here was sort of like a mix between red wine and cola (i.e. a kalimotxo), while the taste was tart red fruit along with subtle honey and touches of cocoa.

Tonight's meal at Rooster & Owl was pretty unlike any other I've enjoyed in the District. The way Tang's cooking presents itself as unconstrained by any one classification is unique, and exciting, and lends itself to creativity. That being said, there were certainly a couple missteps with some of the plates, but nothing that can't be fixed, especially given that the restaurant is still young. Service, meanwhile, was excellent, and I have to give credit to Edgar (and Ralph) for that. A solid showing overall.

Gravitas (Washington, DC)

October 3, 2019, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Mini Sushi Bar (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Rooster & Owl (Washington, DC)

$

0

0

Gravitas Restaurant
1401 Okie St NE, Washington, DC 20002
202.763.7942
www.gravitasdc.com
Thu 10/03/2019, 07:30p-11:45p





I was dining at Eric Ziebold's Métier back in August last year, and when I asked the manager there for restaurant recommendations, one of the first spots that he mentioned was Gravitas, which actually had just opened that July. The place had been on my "to-eat" list ever since, so I decided to give it a go. Situated in the small neighborhood of Ivy City, Gravitas is the work of Chef/Owner Matt Baker, and serves creative American fare with an emphasis on the Chesapeake Bay region.

About the Chef: Matthew Baker was born and raised in the Houston area, and started getting interested in food at an early age. This led to a culinary arts degree from Johnson & Wales (c/o 2008), which was followed by a stint learning hospitality management at Florida International University. After completing his studies there in 2009, he cooked briefly in South Beach, then relocated to Singapore to open Krish (a spot serving South Asian-inflected European fare) as Executive Chef. This gig lasted until February 2011, and following, he ended up moving to DC. Now in the District, Baker cooked for a short while at Minibar before transitioning to Robert Wiedmaier's Marcel's. In October 2011, he became executive sous at another one of Wiedmaier's spots, Brasserie Beck, working under Brian McBride. He then switched over to the longstanding Occidental Grill & Seafood in May 2012, where he functioned as CdC for EC Rodney Scruggs. It was also at this time where Baker started his own restaurant consulting company: Well Fed Hospitality Group (where wife Lindsay also worked).

He left Occidental in September 2014 to become opening Executive Chef at City Perch Kitchen + Bar at North Bethesda's Pike & Rose development; interestingly, one of the partners in the place was none other than LA's own Sherry Yard. However, he decamped in August 2015 to begin work on Gravitas, which actually started out as a series of pop-ups. The brick-and-mortar version, meanwhile, was announced in April 2016, while September 2016 saw the debut of Baker's French Exit sandwich concept, also in pop-up form (though it's slated to become a permanent fixture in the new Quarter Market in Ballston). In June 2017, he consulted on Franklin Hall, a beer spot in the historic Manhattan Laundry building, then launched a Kickstarter for Gravitas. Then, after considerable delay, the restaurant finally opened on July 1st, 2018.

Meanwhile, doing most of the heavy lifting for our menu this evening was Chef de Cuisine Vincent Badiee. Born to a Persian family, he grew up in rural Virginia near Fredericksburg and graduated from Courtland High School in 2006. Following, he attended Georgetown, but soon realized that he wanted to cook for a living. He thus moved to NYC at the start of 2007 and enrolled at the International Culinary Center, focusing on the school's Italian cuisine program. Because of that focus, he was able to live in Italy for one-and-a-half years, where he worked for the late Gualtiero Marchesi and staged at Oasis Sapori Antichi, in addition to studying at ALMA in Colorno. After graduating in January 2009, Badiee moved back home and worked on the line at Brock's Riverside Grill in Fredericksburg. The following September, he landed a gig at Robert Wiedmaier's Brabo in Alexandria, then transitioned to Frank Ruta's Palena at the beginning of 2013.

In January 2014, he returned to New York and became sous at Il Ristorante Rosi, which was run by ICC dean Cesare Casella. About a year later, he was promised a job at Daniel, but ended up working at Café Boulud instead, taking up residence at the pasta station. Badiee's next move came in November 2015, when he started a three month stint as sous at Lidia Bastianich's Felidia. Then, in February 2016, he secured the exec sous position at Maison Premiere, a Beard-winning cocktail/oyster bar in Brooklyn. A year later, he joined the team at Eleven Madison Park, where he ended up focusing on R&D. He decamped at the start of 2018 and was lured back to DC by José Andrés, who promised a position at Minibar. However, he never did work there, but instead was sent to cook at Zaytinya, where he stayed until last September. From there, Badiee served as CdC at Fiola before coming to Gravitas in February this year.

Pastry Chef duties are handled by DC native Jerry Zawacki, who studied at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. After graduating in 2006, he returned home and began working at 2941 Restaurant in Falls Church, VA. In February 2007, he moved to Addie's in Rockville, MD, and in August 2008, switched over to Todd Gray's Equinox. After a fire shuttered the restaurant in December 2009, he began cooking at Wolfgang Puck's The Source, under Scott Drewno. However, Zawacki didn't stay long before leaving to head up the kitchen at The Gibson cocktail bar in May 2010. In March 2011, he, interestingly enough, decided to work as a barista at Filter coffee shop, which lasted for about nine months; during this period, he also consulted for Big Bear Cafe. December 2011 saw him open Phillip Blane's Unum as both Pastry and Sous Chef, but he was out by the next July.

He then spent three months as EC at 1905 Bistro & Bar in Shaw, then cooked at Pesce in Dupont Circle before opening Derek Brown's sherry bar Mockingbird Hill. At the start of 2014, Zawacki began a six month tenure at Aaron Silverman's oft-lauded Rose's Luxury. That September, he moved to NYC to work pastry at the iconic Del Posto, but was back in DC the following June. In August 2015, he was named Exec Chef of Petworth Citizen, then became sous at Robert Curtis' Hazel in October 2016. Zawacki started his own company, Mottonai Consulting, in March 2017, and soon after, was hired to refresh the food program at U Street Corridor cocktail joint Service Bar. He left in March 2018 and spent some time baking at Little Pearl before joining Mirabelle as pastry sous that July. He stuck around for four months, did some work at a friend's bakery, then started at Gravitas in February this year.


Gravitas takes over a building that was once home to the Pappas Tomato Factory, and which was redone with assistance from Natalie Park Design Studio and The Lemon Collective. Many of the structure's industrial elements have been retained, though the space has been softened by large swaths of warm wood, cozy light fixtures, and pops of greenery. Capacity is around 65 in the main dining room, 20 in the mezzanine, and 16 on the patio; there's also a six-seater bar up front. The rooftop, meanwhile, is home to Conservatory at Ivy City, a bar/lounge area surrounded by an urban garden.


As for the menu, the main options are a five-course create-your-own tasting at $90 and a six-course Chef's Tasting Menu at $140, plus a three-course pre-theater menu at $56. You can also order à la carte at the bar/lounge/patio, and brunch is in play, too. However, we were here for the Chef's Counter, a multi-course experience that's available to only two diners a night. It's priced at $180pp (plus $36 for service and $24.48 for taxes and fees), with an optional $120 beverage pairing. Speaking of beverages, you get a mostly American and French wine list, a smattering of beer, and cocktails, all courtesy of Director of Operations David Kurka (who comes to us from Officina/Masseria, Inox, Brasserie Beck, Brabo, Cityzen, and Range). Click for larger versions.


The Gravitas Cocktail [$16.00] | Rye, Maurin Quina, Barolo Chinato, La Fée Absinthe
We opted for cocktails this evening, and I guess it just made sense to commence with the restaurant's namesake libation. It had a pleasing bouquet filled with citrus and dark berry fruit, while the taste brought chocolate and rich cherry perked up by sharp, anise-y notes from the absinthe. A nice start.


Our meal kicked off with a tower presenting a quintet of canapés.


1: Tuna Spoon | Black Vinegar Aioli
First up was the Chef's one-bite take on tuna tartar. Yellowfin ate clean, with a particular depth to it thanks to the use of soy and black vinegar, and I appreciated the piquancy imparted by what I believe was garlic and crispy shallot. I think this could be even better with some more heat to it.


Who Pulled the Fire Alarm? [$14.00] | Singani, House-Spiced Grenadine, Lemon
Our second cocktail had a nose of delicate sweet spice, but its taste was more assertive, giving up strongly astringent notes and lemon, along with a mid-palate displaying fruity, floral spice.


2: Saffron Arancini | Pesto
A saffron-laced arancino was hearty and substantial, its crisp exterior hiding rich insides enhanced by the incorporation of English pea. On top? A bright basil pesto.


3: Italian Tuna Tartare
A second tuna tartar featured basil aioli, red vein sorrel, chives, and shallots (I believe). It was altogether different than the one above thanks to its plethora of tart, sour nuances that counteracted the brine of the tuna.


Spanish Bijou [$14.00] | Kizakura Sake, Manzanilla Sherry, Bianco Vermouth, Green Chartreuse
This next cocktail was lovely, with aromas that were reminiscent of candied lemon. Taste-wise, I got this subdued funkiness at first, which led to decidedly nutty notes and a sour-salty element that was almost suanmei-like.


4: Shooting Point Salts Oyster | 'Chowder'
Here were Badiee's favorite type of oyster, done in a New England clam chowder style. It really did capture the essence of the traditional soup: think lush, salty, "hammy," with a nice touch of lightness from the herbs.


5: Chef's Salad
Our "salad" course was ostensibly based on the larger, seasonally-changing version on the regular menu. I got lots of crunch, lots of bitterness here, all tied together by a creamy dressing.


Fear of Flying [$14.00] | Tequila, Lime, Soda, Basil-Szechuan Peppercorn Syrup
This cocktail was certainly on the light, fizzy, refreshing side, though I wish I could've tasted more from the advertised Sichuan pepper.



6: 'Treasure Box' | Osetra Caviar, Tuna Tartare, Foie Gras, Parkerhouse Rolls, Accoutrement
The hero of this rather luxurious, Le Bernardin-inspired course was a foie gras mousse parfait, topped with tuna tartare (w/ chives, shallots), then further topped with a half-ounce of golden Osetra. I tried it alone first, and absolutely loved how the saltiness from the caviar was evened out by the light, herbaceous notes from the tuna, all while the refined earthiness of the liver came through on the finish. Meanwhile, accoutrements included egg yolks, egg whites, chopped shallots, and chive-topped crème fraîche, not to mention those soft, sweet Park House rolls, served in a brass(?) duck (charmingly named Feather Locklear by a another guest) that was discovered by Badiee in the basement of an antique shop in Fredericksburg. We made open-faced sandwiches with said rolls, and I especially appreciated the zestiness of those shallots, as well as how the egg white moderated everything. Overall a fun, interactive, and of course delicious course.


7: Orecchiette con Cinghiale | Rapini, Watercress Puree, Tuscan Olive Oil, Parmesan
Our pasta course comprised orecchiette, set in a Tuscan olive oil-enhanced watercress purée, with wild boar sausage, broccoli raab, lemon zest, lemon fluid gel, red pepper flakes, and bone marrow breadcrumbs. I found this classically Italian at its core, but definitely taken up a notch. I especially loved the zippiness of the cress, and how that balanced out the richness of the marrow, all while broccolini imparted a pervasive bitterness. Great textures, too--a favorite.


Fernet~Pineapple Daquiri [$16.00] | Plantation Pineapple Rum, Fernet Branca, Luxardo Maraschino, Lime
A reworked daiquiri was the standout cocktail of the night for me. It had a delightfully sharp, acerbic nose filled with fernet and cherry. The palate was similarly biting, bringing forth minty notes along with an undercurrent of sweetness. Really interesting, but in a good way; this could almost function as a digestif.


8: Steamed Swordfish | Chorizo, Sea Urchin, Black Rice
Here was bamboo-steamed swordfish, atop a base of black rice, celery, shallots, and carrots, surrounded by a foam of uni, red grape, and almond (which apparently froths up naturally), and crowned with a layer of Spanish chorizo and a scallion salad. Taking the fish alone, I found it nicely textured--firm, but still yielding--with a delicately savory flavor profile. It actually paired smartly with the chorizo, which had a level of spice that complemented the fish without overwhelming it. At the same time, the sweetness of the rice had a moderating effect, while the foam amped up the brine level and also imparted a delightful nuttiness to the mix.


9: Honey~Lavender Roasted Pheasant | Huckleberry, Szechuan Peppercorn Gastrique
In our final savory course, roast pheasant sat on top of dandelion purée, toasted spelt, and quick-roasted dandelion, while also on the plate were a ginger-boosted huckleberry gastrique and ginger cake crumbles with buckwheat. The bird was beautifully seasoned, while its consistency was firm, dense, and satisfying. A subtle sweetness pervaded the pheasant, and I really enjoyed the pepperiness from the dandelions. My favorite part, surprisingly, was the huckleberry and its tart, fruity contribution to the dish. Overall this was very apropos for autumn I felt.


Absinthe Swizzle [$14.00] | Le Fée Absinthe, Mint, Lime, Ginger Beer
Another long cocktail was also light and effervescent, showing off a healthy amount of anise alongside lighter touches of mint and ginger.


10: Ginger Semifreddo | Mulberry Granita, Sudachi
Serving as a sort of intermezzo was this creamy, relatively mild ginger custard that linked up gorgeously with the tartness of both sudachi and mulberry (a play on the classic combo of blackberry and lime).


11: Blu di Bufala | Kiwi-Vadouvan Jam, Candied Walnuts, Toasted Lavash
A blue from Lombardy ate grassy and funky and salty, but managed to be relatively fine-spun at the same time. It married in effective fashion with the spice and piquancy of the jam, which incorporated arctic kiwi and New York-sourced vadouvan.


Sazerac [$14.00] | Rye, Brandy, La Fée Absinthe, Peychaud's Bitters
Here was Gravitas' take on one of the oldest cocktails around. It had a really spicy nose that was simultaneously grassy and boozy. Tasting it, I got lots of sweetness and nuttiness right up front, joined by alcoholic heat, while the absinthe made itself known toward the mid-palate.


12: 'Tarte Tatin' | Caramel Roasted Apples, Puff Pastry, Cardamom Pudding, Calvados Ice Cream
This thoroughly reimagined tarte Tatin featured apples slow-roasted with caramel and calvados, raw apples compressed with apple syrup, green cardamom pudding, feuille de brick, caramelized puff pastry crumbles, and calvados ice cream, all drizzled with the apple syrup from the aforementioned roasting. The star was the apple, as it should be, and what really made this work for me was how the calvados really amped up the inherent nature of the fruit. I was also a fan of the crumbles, as well as the pastry, and liked the bitterness imparted by the cardamom, too.


13: Mignardise........
We were then provided five varieties of mignardise: tangy-sweet mirabelle plum pâtes de fruits (a reference to Zawacki's time spent at Mirabelle); eggless lychee marshmallows rolled in lime sugar, which I found somewhat minty; "sandy"alfajores with chewy dulce de leche; smoky, nutty, bitter chocolate mini-sandwiches made with cocoa nib brittle and dark chocolate cremeux; and some sort of lime confection--encased in a chocolate shell and rolled in what I believe were crushed sablé biscuits--that gushed in my mouth.


Bitter Giuseppe [$14.00] | Cynar, Sweet Vermouth, Lemon
The evening's last cocktail served as an appropriate digestif thanks to its decidedly vegetal, bittersweet nature, livened up by plenty of citrus.


14: Goodie Bags | Chocolate Chip Cookie, Gravitas Granola, Strawberry Hibiscus Jam
To take home: cookies, granola, and a jar of strawberry-hibiscus preserves.


Along with the goodie bag came a thank you card signed by the entire staff, which was a nice touch. Click for a larger version.

Coincidentally, Gravitas ended up receiving its first Michelin star just two days prior to this meal, and I can see why. The cooking's an effective blend of the contemporary and the classic, speaking to the seasons and showcasing ingredients in a thoughtful, deliberate manner. As for what's next, the Chef mentioned that he'd like to launch an ever higher-end restaurant in the future. He didn't have a name ready to go for it, but I suggested "Levity" (being the opposite of "Gravitas"), which he seemed to take a liking to. You can be sure that if "Levity" ever debuts, I'll be there.

Mini Sushi Bar (Washington, DC)

October 4, 2019, 12:15 pm

≫ Next: Birdie G's (Santa Monica, CA)

≪ Previous: Gravitas (Washington, DC)

$

0

0

Mini Sushi Bar at Mandarin Oriental
1330 Maryland Ave SW, Washington, DC 20024
202.643.1225
www.sushibardc.com
Fri 10/04/2019, 12:15p-01:50p





I last checked in with Chef Minoru Ogawa back in 2017, when I visited his namesake Sushi Ogawa in Kalorama. Since then, he helped open Zeppelin just this March, a multifaceted Japanese concept from Micah Wilder, Ari Wilder, and Adrian Williams (the latter two were colleagues from the Chef's Cafe Japone days). In addition, he's shuttered his more casual spot Mirai, which was situated in the former home of Seasonal Pantry. More worryingly, Ogawa has seemingly lost control of his first solo restaurant, Sushi Capitol, to business partner Can Yurdagul (who was once engaged to his daughter Nina), and even more worryingly, he's been slapped with a wage theft lawsuit by three former employees, including Yurdagul. On the bright side, the Chef was able to debut Mini Sushi Bar last October. Situated in the Mandarin Oriental (where Ogawa worked from 2006 to 2011), the spot is located just off the hotel's lobby and seats a mere eight diners.


The menu here is pretty straightforward: two omakase options at $100 and $50, as well as chirashi and à la carte selections (both nigiri and rolls). To drink, you get a handful of sakes, and even fewer beers. Click for a larger version.


Mini Sushi Bar's lone itamae Jin-san hails from Fuzhou, Fujian province, China. He moved with his family to the US in 2000, settling in the DC area. Following in his older brother's footsteps, he started making sushi part-time in 2002 at a place called Raku in Bethesda. In 2006, he began working full-time at Sakura Japanese Steakhouse in Waldorf, MD, where he stayed for nearly 12 years. Jin-san was poached by Ogawa around the start of the year, and helped open Zeppelin. After six months or so, he transferred over here to Mini Sushi Bar, replacing one Nakata-san, who's since returned to the main restaurant.


1: Maguro
You won't find any zensai to start the meal with here. Rather, you get right into the nigirizushi, beginning with this ruby-hued cut of akami. Think clean, lean, soy-enhanced flavors leading to a stronger-than-usual salinity, with a smidge of wasabi. I found the rice especially crucial here for contrast.


2: Iwana
Arctic char was superbly textured, and showed off rich, briny flavors finished with the heat of wasabi. This had much more character than your typical cut of salmon (which comes from the same family).


3: Hotate
Hokkaido scallop arrived supple and creamy, its sweetness cut by tart lemon and hits of black salt.


Jin-san then brought out a slab of otoro...


4: Otoro
...For use in the next course. Sourced from the Mediterranean, I found the tuna melt-in-your-mouth fatty, with a healthy dosing of soy and a slightly sinewy character. And again, the shari was absolutely key for balance.


5: Hirame
Korean flounder was much more flavorful than usual, which I appreciated. Also appreciated was the light touch of citrus present.


6: Kanpachi
Next came amberjack from Hawaii, which I found pleasantly "crunchy," while yuzu rind contributed a marked sourness to the bite.


7: Kurodai
Black snapper arrived supple and seared, and as a result, had this wonderful smoky savoriness to it. It was delicious just like that, but I also loved the tingling spice provided by the Yuzu-It (which is like a less intense version of yuzukosho).


8: Ibodai
Texturally, butterfish was soft and juicy, while in terms of taste, it had an especially powerful brine that lingered long and strong.


9: Otoro
Our second cut of otoro came from Spain, and was noticeably oiler and fattier than the version above, with a seemingly chewier consistency to boot.


To drink, just a half bottle of the robust Hakkaisan "Eight Peaks" Honjozo [$36], which stood up well to the more full-flavored fishes today.


10: Akaebi Tataki
South American red shrimp arrived chopped, resulting in flavors that were more aggressive than usual. It's sort of an uncommon preparation, but I was glad to see it utilized here. Even better with a squeeze of citrus.


11: Katsuo
Seared bonito had an excellent smoke to it, one that matched swimmingly with the fish's saline character and the spiciness from the yuzukosho.


12: Aji
Horse mackerel had a strong, yet refined brine to it, and paired perfectly with the included negi.


13: Tako
Octopus appeared doused in a sweet-savory dressing, and had a texture that was almost abalone-like, while the finish showed off umami notes from the seaweed. I'd never had anything quite like this at a sushi place before. Also on the plate was a bonus octo leg, which I found sweet and tender, though it could've used more sear and smoke.


14: Miyazaki Wagyu
A5 beef from Miyazaki ate as rich and fatty as you'd expect, while I found the rice particularly important here as a counterbalance.


15: Negitoro Temaki
The typical tuna-green onion hand roll was taken up a notch by the inclusion of kamatoro. This was definitely heavier and oiler than you typically get, so the negi was even more crucial.


16: "Sushi Shumai"
Jin-san was having some fun here. What we had was scraped kurodai tail mixed with a spicy sauce, wrapped with more of the snapper, then seared and dressed with ponzu. I actually quite enjoyed the heat in the dish, and how that interacted with the smoke present, all while the ponzu imparted a contrasting tartness to it all.


17: Ikura
Salmon roe was extra briny, as well as extra sweet. Even more surprising was how much the nori took a backseat here.


18: Anago
Sea eel displayed a lovely touch of char, as well as a subdued sweetness that made total sense with the weight of the fish.


19: Madai
We ended with a bonus piece that I requested. Sea bream ate super fresh, super clean, and was perked up by pricks of salt and an overarching citric sourness. This was almost like a palate cleanser.

Mini Sushi Bar is a strangely-monikered spot in a weird location, but it managed to deliver easily one of the better sushi experiences I've had in the District. I didn't have much to complain about with regard to the food, and I'm a big fan of the sheer intimacy of the place, which allows for ample one-on-one time with the Chef. Despite all the drama that's happening with Ogawa-san and his company, I'm happy to see that at least this place is going strong, and I do hope that it can manage to stick around.

Birdie G's (Santa Monica, CA)

October 6, 2019, 6:30 pm

≫ Next: Haewah Dal (Long Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: Mini Sushi Bar (Washington, DC)

$

0

0

Birdie G's Restaurant
2421 Michigan Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90404
310.310.3616
www.birdiegsla.com
Sun 10/06/2019, 06:30p-09:15p





I last reported on Jeremy Fox back in August 2015, shortly after the opening of Esters, and he's been fairly busy since then; I'll catch you up. In March 2016, he was nominated for the "Best Chef: West" award by James Beard, and the same happened the following March. In April 2017, it was announced that Fox would be teaming up with the folks behind Rustic Canyon (Josh Loeb, Zoe Nathan, Colby Goff) to launch Tallula's, a Mexican-ish spot in the old Marix Tex Mex space. This was followed quickly by the release of his first cookbook, On Vegetables: Modern Recipes for the Home Kitchen, replete with a foreword by David Chang. Tallula's, meanwhile, ended up debuting on May 9th that year, with the day-to-day run by Mario Alberto Orellana, an alum of Ysabel, Laurel Hardware, Freddy Smalls, Chimu, Lazy Ox Canteen, the O.G. Mo-Chica, and Gjelina. However, the place got off to a rocky start, and still to this day hasn't fully recovered.

In October 2017, Fox and friends signed the lease for Birdie G's, the Chef's most personal restaurant to date and one named after both his daughter Birdie and grandmother Gladys. Another "Best Chef: West" nod from Beard came in March 2018, and yet another just this past March (still no wins yet!). In May, he handed over control of the Rustic Canyon kitchen to new EC Andy Doubrava (Salt & Fat, The Spotted Pig, Reynard), and Birdie G's officially opened on June 21st. The restaurant has seemingly caused some consternation among diners, since the cuisine here is difficult to define. It's certainly an obvious departure from Fox's previous efforts at RC and elsewhere. Initially, the food was described as Midwestern American, speaking to the area where the Chef grew up, but in reality, the cooking has proved to be much more than that, as we'll see below.

Confusion aside, second-in-command here is Chef de Cuisine Brittany Cassidy. A San Diego native, she grew up surrounded by home cooking, but decided to pursue a career in dance. However, she eventually wandered back into food, and later enrolled at the Hollywood outpost of Le Cordon Bleu on Sunset. Following graduation in 2008, she went to work under mentor Matt Carpenter at Josie LeBalch's eponymous Josie, then followed him to open Momed in Beverly Hills. In 2011, she worked at both Public Kitchen & Bar (at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel) and at Michael Voltaggio's ink. Cassidy joined the team at Rustic Canyon in 2013 as a line cook, and she later worked her way up to the position of exec sous before becoming CdC there in 2015.

Meanwhile, assisting Cassidy and Fox are Sous Chefs Jeremiah Lacsamana (former chef de partie at Rustic Canyon), Matthew Schaler (Michael's, Fishing with Dynamite), and Joel Spadafore (a former line cook at Rustic Canyon and personal chef). The front-of-the-house, finally, is run by General Manager Charity Sanchez (Picca, Zoës Kitchen).



Birdie G's takes over the former home of the Santa Monica Museum of Art, which was apparently originally built as a train depot. Designed by local firm Montalba Architects (Cassia, Nobu Malibu, Milo + Olive, Huckleberry), the space spans roughly 5,000 square-feet and features a semi-industrial vibe that's to be expected. Note the 12-seater counter peering into the open kitchen, as well as the blue-and-white Nathan Van Hook mural along one wall.


Behind that Van Hook mural is the bar/lounge area, also known as The Bird's Nest, which accommodates around 30 or so patrons with its bar stools and trio of booths.


In the back is the 50-seat private dining room, named Al's Workshop after Fox's grandfather. Do also keep in mind that there's additional seating for another 50 or so out front in the patio/breezeway.


Above we see Birdie G's' menu, which is one of the physically largest I've encountered in a long while (think placemat). It lists a hodgepodge of dishes drawing from the South, the Midwest, California, classic Americana, Italian-Americana, and good ol' Ashkenazi Jewish fare. Click for a larger version.



The restaurant's rather lengthy beverage menu starts out with a listing of cocktails from Bar Manager Stephanie Reading (The Rose Venice, Otium) before getting into a page of beers and one of the most curiously-organized wine lists I've ever seen. Said wine list apparently features over 250 choices, and is the work of Rustic Canyon Family Wine Director Kathryn Coker and Birdie G's Wine Director Aaron Day (Nobu Malibu, Picca, Fifty Seven, L'Espalier and Picco in Boston). Click for larger versions.


Mums an Old Fashioned Gal [$16.00] | chrysanthemum, cane sugar, sazerac rye, barrel aged bitters, lemon twist
We drank exclusively cocktails tonight, and first up was this take on the most classic of them all. It was fairly true to the original, giving up loads of bitterness and spice, undergirded by a persistent sweetness while the citrus added an airy layer on top. I actually didn't get all that much from the advertised chrysanthemum though.


Chino Ranch Egg Salad Texas Toast [$24.00] | fresh burgundy truffles
It's hard to go too wrong by pairing egg and truffle, and indeed, this was a standout course. In fact, it was one of the best egg salads I've had (perhaps the best), thanks in part to all those zesty greens mixed in, and if that wasn't enough, the truffles added an enveloping musk to the dish that worked as the perfect finishing touch.


Dungeness Crab-Prawn Cake [$29.00] | potatoes o'brien, tartar sauce & Birdie Bay
Crab-prawn cake was well-textured, and I really appreciated how the celery was incorporated, which added a lightness to the mix. However, though the brine of the seafood was nicely conveyed, it was lacking in that sweetness you find in crab; I think this would've been better had the prawn been left out. As for the potatoes, think hearty, breakfast-y, and oh-so satisfying in a homey sort of way.


Not Your Grandma's Grasshopper [$16.00] | crème de menthe, crème de cacao, fernet mentha, vodka, Sweet Rose Creamery fresh mint chip ice cream, cookie
One of my dining companions decided to buck convention and order a dessert cocktail to start, and when I say dessert, I really mean it with this one. A devilishly thick concoction with nary a hint of booze, it was pretty much like drinking a mint-chocolate chip ice cream shake, and I mean that in the best way possible.


Hangtown Brei [$25.00] | soft scramble with matzo, wood-grilled pork belly, fried pacific oysters & hot sauce hollandaise
Naturally, we had to order what's become Birdie G's' signature dish: this over-the-top mash-up of a Hangtown fry (a sort of bacon-oyster omelette) and a matzah brei (fried matzo and eggs). What really worked here was how the matza added weight and texture to the soft, schmaltz-cooked eggs, all while the greens imparted a much-needed brightness. I was also a fan of the subtle, creamy heat in the dish, while the pork made for even further contrast. The oysters, though, were tougher and harsher than I would've liked.


Italian Sausage Ravioli [$23.00] | calabrian chili & fennel pollen
This revamped red sauce staple was super comforting. I was definitely into the downright meatiness and herbiness of the sausage, and how that married with the assertive spice of the chili oil-boosted sugo.


The Golden Rule [$16.00] | lemon, agave, prickly pear brandy, tequila, marigold oil
Next came probably the most fascinating cocktail we tried. The nose here was sugary and citrusy, and conveyed a light smoke to boot. As for the palate, I found it tart and pickle-y, with vegetal notes leading to a savory element on the back end.


Gnocchi Sardi with Pesto di Noce [$20.00] | sungold tomato, basil, parmesan & walnut
This was a treat. Gnocchi were beautifully textured, and I was quite smitten by the vibrancy of that pesto, as well as how well it incorporated the walnut. Tomatoes and basil, meanwhile, added a tad of levity that completed the experience.


Lamb "a la Saless" [$46.00] | persian spices, saffron yogurt & crispy dill rice
Next came these gorgeous cuts of lamb, which were imbued with a heady sweetness, as well as the unmistakably bitter, spicy smack of dill. The yogurt offered a respite from the strong flavors at play, while the tahdig-inspired crispy rice contributed plenty of crunch.


Sweet Tea & Summer Dreams [$17.00] | egg white, lemon, orgeat, muddled strawberry, xocalate mole bitters, black tea milk washed bourbon, vanilla
This next cocktail was also an interesting one, but in a good way. Aromas here were on the sugary side, and almost recalled an orange Creamsicle. As for the taste, I found the drink soft and sweet, with a touch of tartness and a finish that reminded me of the sweet-spicy notes from a scented candle.


40" Grilled Merguez Sausage [$28.00] | tahini, harissa & chickpea panisse
To be frank, we ordered this mostly for the sheer length of the sausage, which was impressive, though it wasn't as girthy as we were expecting. In any case, the Merguez had a pleasantly rustic consistency, while the spice level was fairly subdued. I was partial to the heartiness of the chickpea cakes here, as well as the zinginess from the salad, though the sweet potato was superfluous.


8oz Corned Brisket "Steak Frites" [$32.00] | beer mustard
In our final savory course, brisket arrived soft and flaky, the beef playing well with its Montreal-style seasoning as well as the superb sweet piquancy of the included mustard. As for the fries, they were excellent, sort of like a thicker, better, less-salty version of McDonald's'.


Liberty Bell Libations [$16.00] | cracked black pepper, red & orange bell pepper, lemon, honey, aviation american gin
Here was perhaps the most polarizing cocktail of the night. It was a pretty intense one, giving up loads of vegetal, sweet-peppery flavors evened out by the presence of booze and botanicals. According to one of my dining companions, it tasted "like a salad."


Above we see the dessert menu, which comes to us from Consulting Pastry Chef Deanie Hickox. Interestingly, she was once known as Deanie Fox, Jeremy's wife. The two met while they were working at the late Rubicon in San Francisco, and moved together to both Manresa and Ubuntu. However, they left the restaurant in early 2010 amidst a divorce, and Hickox eventually landed back at Manresa. From there, she moved over to Daniel Patterson's Coi, and then to his Plum in Oakland, and then to Covina in New York. Click for a larger version.


"World Famous" Rose Petal Pie [$14.00] | raspberry, strawberry, rose, hibiscus & pretzel crust
It was now time for the sweet stuff, and we started with Birdie G's' rather striking signature dessert. Featuring shards of hibiscus/rose/strawberry gelatin set in a raspberry mousse, it represented a delightful mish-mash of sweet, creamy, fruity, and floral, all contrasted against a wonderfully nutty, salty, gritty pretzel crust. A must try by my estimation.


Chilled Chocolate Cake [$12.00] | malted frosting
The chocolate cake was as rich as it looked, but underneath all that decadence was a layer of fruitiness, and almost booziness that made this more interesting than I expected. And the whipped cream on the side? Absolutely necessary.


Aperol Spritz [$15.00] | aperol, brute cava, soda, orange
Another dining companion ordered an Aperol Spritz, which from what I understand is having a bit of a moment now. It was a pretty faithful rendition of the easy-breezy cocktail, its classic bittersweet flavor profile satisfying in a familiar fashion.


Cheesecake in a Jar [$12.00] | concord grape preserves & graham cracker
Our jarred cheesecake definitely highlighted the lactic nature of the actual cheese utilized, while the preserves offered up just the right amount of fruity tang. My favorite part? That salty, crumbly crust of course.


Sticky Date Bundt Cake [$11.00] | whipped crème fraîche & salted caramel
This was a table favorite due to the cake's unabashedly rich flavors of dark, sugary fruit and caramel, all set against the much needed lightness of crème fraîche. Delish, and one of the best versions of sticky toffee pudding I've had.


Sky's the Limit [$16.00] | maraschino, crème de violette, dry vermouth, lavender bitters, aviation american gin, lavender
The final cocktail of the evening was this blue-tinted take on the classic Aviation. Due to the use of lavender, the drink had an almost "soapy" sort of flavor profile that wasn't to everyone's liking, though the booziness and bitterness present did offer a modicum of relief.

I wasn't quite sure what to expect from here, but walked out of the place feeling pretty content. While it's true that the menu is a bit all over the place, I guess that's actually the whole point of it. I get the feeling that the place is meant to be seen through an autobiographical lens; it's an "American restaurant" by Fox's own estimation, the culmination of his experiences, his roots, and just plain what he likes. Though Birdie G's may not neatly fit into a category, I will say that it does feel pretty pertinent for Los Angeles in this day and age.

Haewah Dal (Long Beach, CA)

October 13, 2019, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Pasjoli (Santa Monica, CA)

≪ Previous: Birdie G's (Santa Monica, CA)

$

0

0

Hae Wah Dal Restaurant
5020 E 2nd St, Long Beach, CA 90803
562.343.7749
www.haewahdal.com
Sun 10/13/2019, 07:00p-09:00p





If we're talking about types of restaurants I never expected to open in Belmont Shore, a modern Korean spot would pretty much be at the top of the list, but yet here we are. Haewahdal ("sun and moon") debuted, somewhat unceremoniously, on September 17th, and comes to us from the wife-and-husband team of Myung Hee Chung and Han Chung. The couple also owns Poke Pola next door, and apparently son Nicholas and daughter Irene (both of whom live in New York) are also involved. The restaurant takes over a spot that was previously home to Magic Lamp Lebanese Mediterranean Grill, and a Baja Fresh before that. The space was remodeled by Davis Owen (Irene's beau), taking inspiration from irworobongdo-style paintings, and total dining capacity is 36. As for the kitchen, the Chungs have brought on Chef Jake Jung to run the show.

About the Chef: Jake S. Jung was born in South Korea, and didn't start out pursuing a career in the culinary field. He studied at Korea Aerospace University, where he attained a bachelor's degree in 1998, and from there he went to Oklahoma State University–Stillwater, where he received his master's in aerospace engineering in 2000. However, realizing that he wanted to cook, his next step was to move to Paris, where he went to both Le Cordon Bleu and École Grégoire-Ferrandi. After finishing up his studies in 2001, he moved back to the States. In New York, Jung worked at Daniel and Picholine, as well as at Koji Imai's Megu. He also spent time in San Francisco at both Gary Danko and Michael Mina. In 2008, he became sous at Gordon Ramsay at The London in NYC, where he spent a year, and later cooked at Moon Jar, a wine bar in Fort Lee, NJ.

Around this time, Jung also began private cheffing, and apparently his clients included the likes of Hillary Clinton, George Clooney, Lady Gaga, and even Ban Ki-Moon, Secretary-General of the United Nations. At the start of 2014, he served as exec sous for the US Open, held at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center in Flushing, NY. This was followed by stints at Polaria, a private club of some sort, and ostensibly a place called Le Petit Etoile in New York. In November 2014, Jung landed the Executive Chef position at Saranda's on Broadway in Fountain Hill, PA, and in September 2016, he moved over to Crown Restaurant & Lounge, a Korean-American spot in Palisades Park, NJ (which shuttered at the end of 2018).

Rounding out the team in the kitchen are Joonho Noh, Sehwan Kim, Emily Kim, and Michael Romo, while the front-of-the-house is handled by Martin Forsy and Alexis Shubin.



Haewah Dal's menu features several tasting menus of varying lengths, but all items can be ordered à la carte as well. To drink, there's a compact wine list, soju and other sundry Korean libations, and a handful of beers. Corkage is $20, with no limit on the number of bottles I'm told. Click for larger versions.


Our meal commenced with an amuse bouche: a single heirloom tomato, peeled and dressed in a sweet-ish, somewhat boozy plum wine vinegar.


To drink, we had a bottle of the 2018 Sante Adairius Bridges Built, a multi-grain saison aged with peaches in French oak. The nose here brought the expected stone fruit, but joined by a yeasty funk, oak, and a light herby astringency. The palate was more subdued, showing off just enough tart peach skin alongside a pleasant earthiness, oak, acidity, and lemon, along with a marked bitterness on the close. Overall the beer was quite enjoyable, and stood up well to the food we were having.


secret garden [$18.00] | diver scallop, mushrooms, asparagus, roasted beets
Our first dish was named after Biwon (a garden inside Seoul's Changdeokgung Palace), I'm guessing due to its plating. In any case, the scallop arrived beautifully cooked, with a satisfying caramelization to it and plenty of sweetness and brine. Meanwhile, the veggies and 'shrooms worked as effective complements without taking away attention. Yum.


manduguk [$16.00] | lobster, korean perilla leaf oil, ox bone broth
Jung's take on mandu-guk featured delicate lobster dumplings married with pervasive-but-pleasant notes of ginger, while the gomguk-esque bone broth provided a homey, hearty depth to the dish. I also appreciated the touch of heat from the chili threads, but would've liked more texture from the lobster.


bossam [$18.00] | berkshire pork, seasoned mountain garlic, baek kimchi, artichoke purée
Pork belly was super tender and near melt-in-your-mouth fatty. Given the heft of the meat, the tanginess from the kimchi and the bitterness of myeongi was absolutely crucial, as was the moderating effect of the artichoke.


octopus [$16.00] | gochujang velouté, crispy apple, carrot, sorrel
Nakji came out delightfully supple, with a lovely amount of sear. Flavors here were pleasantly spicy, and even a bit nutty, while the brunoise of apple imparted a welcomed brightness.


crispy silken tofu [$16.00] | panko, silken tofu, vegetable demi-glace
The dubu twigim had a properly light, crisp crust, but really needed to be served in smaller pieces, since much of the tofu veered underseasoned. The veggies and demi-glace did help, though.


tuna tartar [$18.00] | tomato gochujang, trout roe, korean pear, seaweed cracker
Jung then sent out his take on yukhoe, which arrived enveloped in a cloud of applewood smoke and managed to be a favorite of mine. The tuna had an excellent balance of tartness and savory depth, while the trout roe added bursts of salinity. In addition, the dish was served with crispy gim chips, which gave the dish a wonderful crunch.


In addition to the beer above, I also brought the 2007 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Belle Epoque. The wine had a fantastic bouquet brimming with sweet, lactic funk; one of my dining companions even likened it to Uncle Tetsu's Cheesecake! Taste-wise, this was creamy and decadent, with notes of toast, citrus, and pome fruit layered over a decidedly sugary backbone. This was much better than I expected, actually.


chilean seabass [$36.00] | doenjang marinade, berry chutney, green beans, korean black raspberry wine reduction
At this point we moved into the main courses, and the nongeo was a crowd pleaser. The fish was just as buttery and rich and flaky as I wanted, while flavors leaned sweet. Fortunately, said sweetness was evened out by the well-placed bitterness and char from the green beans.


galbijjim [$32.00] | three-day processed braised beef short rib, gingko nut, daikon radish
Naturally, we had to try the galbi-jjim. The beef displayed a pretty classic blend of sweet 'n' savory flavors, all in balance, and I was a big fan of the garlicky bits on top, while the ginkgo nuts added further interest. However, my concern here was that the meat was overly tough in spots, which tempered enjoyment of the dish.


black cod [$32.00] | crispy potato, baek kimchi wrap, doenjangguk velouté
The daegu was another favorite. The fish was super juicy and beautifully textured, and paired superbly with the crunch and salt of its potato sheathing. At the same time, greens added a bitter finish to the cod, while the bits of white kimchi contributed a certain lightness.


bansang | small side dishes served alongside rice in traditional Korean cuisine
The mains all came with a bansang closer comprising doenjang-guk, gondeure-boosted rice, yangnyeom ganjang, more baek-kimchi, eomuk, and sigeumchi namul. My favorite thing on the platter was the fried fish cake, while the soybean paste soup offered up a cozy, funky, somewhat bitter slurping experience. Also, I ended up mixing in the seasoned soy sauce with the rice, which made for a rather satisfying combination.



dessert [$15.00] | assorted selection
For dessert, we had a plate containing sweet-n-herby glazed strawberries, gotgamssam (walnut wrapped in dried persimmon), and chocolate truffles (one of which tasted like it could've had a bokbunja filling). Also provided was a gyul sorbet, which was refreshing and actually pretty wonderful thanks to its super intense, true-to-life flavors of juicy tangerine.

I'm surprised, really surprised, that HaeWah Dal opened in Belmont Shore of all places. That being said, I'm glad to have it here as an option. There's really nothing quite like it in the area, or even greater Los Angeles for that matter. Jung aims to convey the spirit of Korean cookery in a manner befitting his classical training, and the end results are generally very enjoyable, though I would like to see the Chef get a bit more assertive with some facets of the food. This is one of the most fascinating restaurant openings of the year for me, and I'm really hoping that the spot can stick around.

Pasjoli (Santa Monica, CA)

October 17, 2019, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Toriki (Tokyo, Japan)

≪ Previous: Haewah Dal (Long Beach, CA)

$

0

0

Pasjoli Restaurant
2732 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405
424.330.0020
www.pasjoli.com
Thu 10/17/2019, 09:00p-12:10a





I last posted about Dave Beran back in September 2017, shortly after the debut of his first solo project, Dialogue. I had an excellent meal there, very possibly my best of that year, which reminds me: I need to go back. In any case, I wasn't the only one impressed with the place. Dialogue landed four stars from LA Weekly in November 2017, which was followed by a glowing review from Jonathan Gold shortly afterward. Time Out's Simon Majumdar gave the restaurant a full five stars, while Michelin doled out a single star just this past June (I felt it deserved at least two).

The whole time though, Beran was formulating his sophomore effort, an elevated-but-fun, bistro-y, Escoffier-inspired French eatery. Named Pasjoli because it's not Jolie (Jolie being the original name of what became Dialogue), the spot debuted on September 18th in the former home of Bareburger (and the longstanding Ocean Park Omelette Parlor before that) following a nine month build-out. Chef de Cuisine duties are being handled by Matthew Kim, a former sous at Dialogue.


There's no mistaking Pasjoli's menu for anything else but emphatically French, but at the same time, you won't find a lot of your usual tropes, either. Do note that the restaurant's signature pressed duck is available by reservation only, a fact that we sadly weren't aware of. Drinks are handled by Beverage Director Daniel Lovig (who relocated from Grand Rapids), and he's got a theme-appropriate cocktail selection joined by an almost exclusively French wine list. Corkage is $50, but was kindly waived tonight. Finally, keep in mind that all prices are inclusive of service, as this is a no-tipping restaurant. Click for larger versions.


Beverage-wise, things got started with a bottle of the 1997 Pio Cesare Barolo (brought by one of my dining companions), which was decanted pretty much right when we got there and enjoyed throughout the meal. The wine demonstrated a heady, perfume-y nose that I could smell from across the table, with dark fruit notes up front leading to dry herbs and meat. Tasting it, I got tannic berries leading the charge, backed by more herbaceousness and some spice, the finish showing off a pleasant heat. And as the wine warmed, I detected more and more lingering, unripe fruit flavors.


quenelle [$36.00] | scallop, caviar beurre blanc
Pasjoli's seafood quenelle was supple, delicate, yet effectively conveyed the sweetness of the scallop. What made the dish really work, though, was the incorporation of caviar, which imparted pops of salinity that were crucial for juxtaposition.



tartare de bœuf [$26.00] | traditional, nasturtium, country toast
Next came one of the prettiest beef tartars I've ever seen, and fortunately, its taste lived up to its appearance. The meat had a satisfyingly springy consistency, as well as a plethora of salty, beefy flavors that were dutifully offset by the presence of radish and that intriguingly zippy nasturtium pesto. Great textural component from the toasted bread, too.


un side-car [$18.00] | calvados, dry curaçao, buckwheat honey, lemon, walnut
We ended up ordering all of the cocktails, and first up was this take on the classic sidecar. The brandy made itself known right up front, delivering tasty notes of apple commixed with citrus. This then transitioned to nutty, almost chocolate-y flavors, the whole thing undergirded by a persistent dosing of sugar.


pâté en croûte [$22.00] | Madeira, pickled carrot, mustard
I was really looking forward to the pâté (comprised of veal, pork, chicken, and an aspic consommé), and it was pretty much perfect. I loved the rustic, yet subtly-spiced nature of the forcemeat, and how it matched up with its pastry crust. If that wasn't enough, accompanying the dish was an excellent Dijon mustard, one that I just kept going back to over and over.


crabe et chou-fleur [$26.00] | blue crab, cauliflower cream, sorrel
The sweet salinity of crabe bleu was on vibrant display here, though the key was that cauliflower, which offered up a wondrous crunch and contrast that managed to temper certain parts of the crab while emphasizing others. Really smart--I was actually surprised at how well this dish came together.


quarante vertus [$24.00] | armagnac, burnt sugar, Angostura bitters
This next cocktail featured a nose strong on the citrus, with a restrained backing of sweet spice. The palate, however, was surprisingly light, soft, even a bit watery, and gave up more of that sugary spice, countered by a subdued bitterness on the mid-palate, while the potency of the brandy was almost nowhere to be found.


foie de poulet à la Strasbourgeoise [$39.00] | chicken liver, brioche, truffle
This was a must-try for us, and didn't disappoint. I was a big fan of the richness of the Madeira-boosted liver, and how close it was to real-deal foie gras. The Burgundy truffle formed a natural pairing thanks to its muskiness, while the soft, sweet brioche moderated everything. To add icing on the cake, there was even a superb shallot-winter truffle jam included, one that a dining companion of mine wanted to take home. Another standout, and excellent when enjoyed with the wine above.


gratin dauphinois [$16.00] | potato gratin, gruyère
Given my penchant for potatoes, this was a no-brainer. The pommes here were a deft blend of creamy, cozy, and savory, while the incorporation of cheese lent even more heft and luxury. My favorite of the side dishes we tried.


lever et laver [$18.00] | gin, lavender, lemon, sparkling
As you can infer from the glassware used, this cocktail was on the quaffable side. I got a very strong floral element here, cut by citrus, with an undercurrent of sweetness permeating it all. The actual gin was fairly reticent.


champignons [$36.00] | roasted hen of the woods, white beans, buckwheat crêpe
Maitakes were beautifully textured, their inherent woodsiness well-matched to the liberal amount of rosemary present. White beans worked as a moderating force, as did the sweet, smoky nature of that crêpe.


The main courses all seemed to come with an accompanying side, and so here we had more mushrooms, with more rosemary.


melon de ferme [$17.00] | rhum blanc, cantaloupe, dry vermouth, lemon, mint
Our next beverage certainly takes the crown for most gluggable cocktail of the night. The drink showed off flavors of pure, sweet, utterly fruity cantaloupe, with nary a trace of booze, surprisingly.


omelette aux truffes [$39.00] | fines herbes, black truffle, Pierre Robert
The omelet I found thoroughly enjoyable, which you'd probably expect given the ingredients. Texturally, the egg was slightly firm, but yielding and pliant, and really worked hand-in-hand with the cheesy, herby elements present. However, we have to come back to that truffle again, which imparted a perfect amount of funk that really made the dish complete. Yum.


Some dressed greens turned up with the omelet.


boulevardier [$22.00] | whisky, cognac, Byrrh, white vermouth
Pasjoli's take on the classic boulevardier cocktail had a nose filled with sweet caramel, lemon, and the herbaceous nature of the drink's secret bay leaf tincture. On the palate, I found the drink surprisingly soft, with sweet, fruity notes dominating while the Corsican vermouth brought a little more interest.


turbot meunière [$46.00] | turbot, brown butter, lemon, French beans
The turbot managed to be another favorite of mine. The fish came perfectly cooked, with a springy, spongy texture and a delicate brine augmented by the richness of beurre noisette. I could've done without the fried parsley, though.


A side of haricots verts amandine displayed a wonderful bitterness and crunch, along with a complementary creaminess.


mitaine pour michel [$19.00] | pear eau de vie, lemon, yellow Chartreuse, gentiane, white vermouth
This cocktail featured a pear brandy, though I actually didn't get much from the fruit. Rather, I found the drink rather raisin-y, I'm guessing from the gentian, while the back end was on the bitter, herbaceous side.


crevettes et palourdes [$49.00] | spot prawns and clams, bloomsdale spinach, sauce Nantua
Shrimp were beautifully cooked, arriving snappy and sweet, their brine enhanced by the inclusion of clams. The Nantua sauce, meanwhile, contributed a lobster bisque-esque heft to the dish, and I was pretty enamored with the astringency from the spinach, too. However, my one quibble here was that the fried head of the shrimp tasted a bit "off."


A few slices of toasted bread were much appreciated.


arnaud [$18.00] | gin, crème de cassis, dry vermouth
Featuring equal parts of Citadelle gin, crème de cassis, and Dolin, this cocktail drank green and grapey, with a distinct medicinal bent.


carré d'agneau de Rhône [$52.00] | rack of lamb, olive and lamb jus, artichokes and grapes
Lamb came to the table in impressive fashion. Fatty and flavorful, the meat was augmented by the unmistakable piquancy of olive, while a healthy dosing of herbs (lots of rosemary if I recall) provided a very necessary contrast.


More greens, which worked as almost a palate cleanser of sorts.


au revoir olivier [$18.00] | Escubac, grapefruit, lemon, rosemary, génépy
The first of two long cocktails we had drank tropical and grassy at first, while robustly floral, nearly "soapy" flavors came in later. Overall, pretty refreshing and easy-going.


Pasjoli's dessert menu is short and (mostly) sweet. Click for a larger version.


tarte au citron [$16.00] | traditional
We were getting pretty full by this point, and only opted for three desserts. The first came recommended by one of our servers, and was a pretty classic rendition of a lemon pie. Think sour, almost bracing citrus, softened by the tart's firm, crumbly crust.


le sourcis [$19.00] | cognac, tangerine, lemon, thyme, egg white
Our penultimate libation was named after Jean-Paul Sartre's novel Le Sursis. Now I do appreciate a punny cocktail name, and this was perhaps the most high-brow example I'd ever encountered. In any case, this was basically a cognac sour, one that played the sweet-sour nature of the fruit against pungent thyme and the eggy nature of the drink's foamy head.


fruits du marché [$16.00] | whipped anglaise, lemon shortbread
Tart, vibrant fruit meshed perfectly with the greenery in the bowl, and we all really appreciated the sweet, creamy counterpoint provided by the crème anglaise.


merci henri [$17.00] | vodka, peach, armagnac, lemon, sparkling
Our last cocktail was a riff on the ubiquitous Bellini, one that utilized peach-infused Helix vodka and fruit from the local farmers' market. It was a more contemplative version of the classic drink, one that showed off a somewhat nuanced presentation of peach, along with additional complexity from the two spirits used.



baba au rhum [$16.00 + $35.00] | crème Chantilly, choice of rum
Finishing things off was the rum baba, which was prepared tableside (a rare sight to see these days) and incorporated a special truffle-infused rum we requested (at extra cost). The cake ate soft and saturated, its inherent sugariness evened out by boozy, bitter elements and the unabashedly earthy qualities of truffle.

Given Beran's background, I had high expectations going to Pasjoli, and was not let down. You might think of this place as a mere bistro, but that would be a bit reductive. The cooking's undoubtedly French at its core, but there's a noticeably contemporary, maybe even Californian je ne sais quoi to the food that makes it much, much more than meets the eye. This is one of the top Los Angeles area openings of 2019, and now I really want to go back for that duck.

---

Toriki (Tokyo, Japan)

October 26, 2019, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Mikawa Zezankyo (Tokyo, Japan)

≪ Previous: Pasjoli (Santa Monica, CA)

$

0

0

Toriki Kinshicho
Kosaka Building 1F, 1-8-13 Kinshi, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0013
03.3622.6202
Sat 10/26/2019, 09:00p-12:10a





I recently found myself in Japan for the first time in over a decade, and after landing at Haneda, the first thing I did was get on the Tokyo Monorail and make my way to dinner. Yakitori seemed like a good option, and I had a reservation at Yasuhito Sakai's Toriki, one of the top spots in the city (note: don't confuse this place with the identically-named restaurant in Shinagawa, which Anthony Bourdain visited in 2008).

About the Chef: Sakai Yasuhito was born in 1969, and wanted to be a chef ever since he was a child. After finishing school, he dabbled in software engineering before deciding that he wanted to pursue a culinary career. Thus, at age 21, he began working as a dishwasher at a yakitori joint, and was able to begin cooking when he was 29. After gaining a dozen years' experience in the business, he was able to open Toriki in 2001. The restaurant soon began making a name for itself, and even earned a Michelin star in the 2010 guide, which it's retained through 2019 (it seems to have been dropped from the 2020 guide however). Meanwhile, a branch of Toriki opened in Taipei in April 2017, and apparently the Chef travels regularly to Taiwan to oversee the spot.


Toriki features a set menu priced at ¥5,800 ($53.38) a head (not including 10% sales tax), and includes a dozen or so skewers (ostensibly made with "Akatori" birds sourced from Kagoshima) as well as a number of other small plates. À la carte is allowed following your course meal. Click for larger versions.



The beverage selection is actually pretty varied, with your choice of beer, cocktails, wine, shochu, sake, and sundry soft drinks. Do note that this was the English drink menu, so there may be slight differences in the Japanese version. Click for larger versions.


Beverage-wise, it felt appropriate to start with a bottle of Asahi Lager Beer [¥750 ($6.90)], which was pretty much exactly what you'd expect.


1: Oshinko
I was quickly provided a plate of vegetables pickled in salted rice bran paste, nukazuke-style. Coming out bitter and crunchy, the veggies were actually relatively lightly pickled, and I was especially a fan of those greens.


2: Chicken Salad
My salad featured savory, almost nutty shards of what I believe was chicken breast. Veggies worked well for contrast, especially that zesty red onion. Nice.


3: Sabiyaki
The evening's first skewer brought soft, slightly rare, delicately charred cuts of sasami (breast meat) that paired swimmingly with the intense burn of wasabi.


4: Sunagimo
Gizzard arrived properly crunchy, while flavors were much richer than usual, almost liver-y in fact. Great pops of salt here as well.


5: Daikon Oroshi
A juicy mound of grated daikon radish served as a palate cleanser of sorts.


6: Kata
Next was a cut that I don't think I'd ever encountered before. Taken from the shoulder of the chicken, the meat ate chewy, dense, and firm, while flavors blended a perfect amount of salt, savor, and sear. Superb--a favorite of mine. I wish more yakitori-ya would serve this.


With the beer dispensed with, I opted for a Sudachi Sour [¥480 ($4.42)]. A type of chuhai made with shochu, this sudachi hai was certainly fizzy and refreshing, though somewhat lacking in the advertised citrus.


7: Kashiwa
Thigh was super soft and super juicy, with a slight sweetness to it. It's not exactly clear to me how this differs from your usual momo.


8: Kotamanegi
The "petit onion" was another standout. I loved its wonderfully crisp, multilayered texture, while its char and pops of salt worked effortlessly with the veggie's intrinsic bittersweetness. I'd never seen kotamanegi used in yakitori before tonight, which is a damn shame given how great it was.


9: Chigimo
In another first for me, chicken liver was served rare, which completely changed the nature of the offal. The reba had a supple, almost pudding-like consistency, while flavors were expectedly earthy, but also markedly more delicate than usual. Again, I'm not sure why more places don't serve liver this way.


Random fowl figurines livened up the counter area.


10: Tsukune
Meatballs had a wonderfully gritty, rustic texture due to the incorporation of what I believe was cartilage, while the green onion mixed in gave the dish a nice zippiness.


My next beverage was the Cassis Soda [¥480 ($4.42)], which the restaurant actually forgot to charge me for. Made with crème de cassis, the drink had a subdued fruitiness to it that actually stood up well to all the yakitori.


11: Konasu
Miniature eggplants were a treat thanks to their firm, satisfying texture and marriage of sweet and smoky flavors. Again, I'd like to see this served at more places.


12: Chikinshichu
Here was a homey stew of sorts, one featuring savory-sweet cuts of chicken along with crunchy bamboo, shiitake, and slippery konnyaku.


13: Matsutake
My visit happened to coincide with matsutake season, and so I was happy to see the mushroom presented tonight. The well-charred 'shrooms had a fibrous, spongy, yet firm consistency, while flavors were intense, savory, almost briny in fact. Great with a squirt of sudachi.


14: Hiyashi Tomato
A single slice of tomato was seemingly extra tart, and functioned as a bit of a palate cleanser after the sheer headiness of the matsutake above.


15: Tebayaki
Tebasaki showed off a spot on combination of textures that I loved. Meanwhile, flavors were very, very robust, an explosion of salt and savor that utterly satisfied. Do note that the bones were actually removed for me by the staff.


16: Shiratama
The uzura (quail egg) featured a snappy outer layer and classic, cozy flavors that really opened up with a pinch of salt.


My final beverage was the Momo-Gokochi [¥750 ($6.90)], a thick, viscous juice that really showed off the true-to-life flavors of peach--delish.


17: Ginnan
Ginkgo nuts (which were in season) had a gratifyingly chewy texture to 'em, while flavors were on the bitter side.


18: Tamanegi Supu
The final course of the set menu was this light, bright onion soup that I enjoyed much more than I thought I would.


Hatsu [¥???]
At this point I was offered the opportunity to order additional items, and immediately requested the tail (called bonbochi here), which unfortunately the Chef had run out of. However, he instead directed me to the off-menu chicken heart, and I quickly obliged. What surprised me was how it was served rare, which totally changed the nature of the organ meat (as with the liver above). I found it supple and almost jiggly in terms of texture, while flavors blended the funk of the cut with healthy doses of salt and sear. Another first for me.


Yagen [¥???]
The yagen nankotsu represented a great back-and-forth between crunchy cartilage and delectable morsels of the bird. If you're wondering about the "¥???" listed for these last three courses, the reason is that I was charged ¥1,200 ($11.04) for them, but wasn't provided a cost breakdown on the bill.


Chochin [¥???]
I ended with the chochin ("lantern"), which comprised chicken uterus with two undeveloped yolks attached. I was instructed to eat it all in one bite, and it was a real treat, with the lush, runny nature of the egg working hand-in-hand with the charred, chewy meat. Yet another first for me.


Chef/Owner Sakai Yasuhito was an affable host.

Toriki served me a superb dinner, and also served as a great welcome back to Japan. This was very likely the best yakitori meal I've had, and I was especially appreciative of how many new things I was able to experience. What really struck me, though, was the relative subtlety of Sakai-san's cookery. I'd say that it's less smoke/charcoal-focused than most, tending to highlight more of the intrinsic nature of the bird, which is apparently a result of his higher heat cooking methods. In any case, Toriki is certainly worthy of consideration if you're seeking out yakitori in the Tokyo area.

Mikawa Zezankyo (Tokyo, Japan)

October 27, 2019, 7:40 pm

≫ Next: Kanda (Tokyo, Japan)

≪ Previous: Toriki (Tokyo, Japan)

$

0

0

Tempura Mikawa Zezankyo
1-3-1 Fukuzumi, Koto-ku, Tokyo 135-0032
03.3643.8383
mikawa-zezankyo.jimdo.com
Sun 10/27/2019, 07:40p-09:10p





I often bemoan the lack of tempura specialist spots here in the US, which I imagine is due to the lack of respect most Americans have for it (I think it's viewed as a cheap sort of food here in the States). Given that, I made it a point to visit such a place during my time in Japan, and ended up here at Tetsuya Saotome's Mikawa Zezankyo. The restaurant bills itself as an edomae-style tempura joint, which ostensibly means it primarily focuses on serving the style of tempura available in the Tokyo area during the Edo period.

About the Chef: Sometimes referred to as the "god of tempura,"shokunin Saotome Tetsuya was born in 1947 in the Nagoya area, and in fact, the restaurant is supposedly named after Mikawa Province, an old administrative division that encompassed his hometown. He initially wanted to pursue a career in sushi, but after being convinced otherwise by tempura chef Syotaro Uemura, he began training under him at the age of 15. After learning for 14 years, Saotome-san was finally ready to strike out on his own, and opened Tempura Mikawa Kayabacho in Tokyo's Nihonbashi neighborhood in April 1976, when he was 29. The place had a steady following, and its success allowed the Chef to launch his second restaurant, Tempura Mikawa Roppongi Hills Keyakizaka, in 2003, with his former second-in-command running the show.

Mikawa Zezankyo, meanwhile, debuted in April 2009 (I think he handed off the original eatery to his son), situated on a site near the Sumida River that he purchased circa 1982. The current building was reportedly constructed around 1997, and features five levels. The first holds the bulk of the restaurant, while the second and third floors are home to private dining rooms and art exhibition spaces; I've heard that Saotome actually lives on the higher floors. Zezankyo was largely well-received, and even landed a Michelin star in 2010, but evidently lost in back in 2015. An interesting note: the Chef is a friend of Jiro Ono (of Sukiyabashi Jiro Honten fame), and apparently made an appearance in David Gelb's seminal film Jiro Dreams of Sushi.


Above we see what sort of amounts to a menu, replete with Saotome's rather striking calligraphy/prawn drawing/stamp on the front cover (I asked for his signature at the end of the meal). As for the cost, we were charged ¥19,000 ($174.85) a head, plus 10% sales tax; there was also a ¥10,000 ($92.03) per person deposit required, which was of course applied to the bill. Click for larger versions.


1: Sakizuke San-ten-mori
The meal kicked off with a trio of small bites, already on the counter when we arrived. On the left was a small mound of zesty greens dusted with a nutty topping; I'm guessing this was mitsuba with some sort of sesame seed. This was followed by a dollop of super creamy tofu finished with what I believe was a miso-based condiment. Last up was what seemed like an aspic comprising fish (eel perhaps?) encased in gelatin.


2: Kuruma Ebi
Our parade of tempura began with Japanese tiger prawn. These were spot on texturally, and I loved their combination of softness and snap, while the cook on 'em was just the slightest bit rare. At the same time, their subtle sweetness made for a great contrast with the robust batter. A strong start.


3: Ebi no Atama
The shrimp heads were subsequently served, and might've been even better than the bodies thanks to their excellent crunch and brine, tempered just a smidge by the application of tentsuyu.


And speaking of tentsuyu, here we see it, replete with a mound of daikon oroshi and salt on the side.


4: Matsutake
We were in peak matsutake season, so it wasn't a surprise to see them here. The mushrooms had a decidedly meaty, fibrous consistency, along with a prodigiously woodsy funk that was duly contrasted by hits of shio and sudachi.


5: Kisu
Japanese whiting was super delicate, super finessed, and absolutely wonderful with just the slightest pinch of salt. I'd say that this was probably the best preparation of fish tempura I've had.


Bubbly usually pairs well with fried foods, so beverage-wise I went with a half-bottle of the NV Pommery Champagne Brut Royal [¥4,500 ($41.41)]. I found it well balanced, bringing forth stone fruit, citrus, nuts, toast, and oxidation in all the right quantities. The wine really did stand up to the tempura beautifully.


6: Ika
I believe this was sumi-ika, or ink squid. Whatever it was, it had an utterly satisfying texture that was simultaneously supple and substantial, and which paired swimmingly with the crispy batter going on. Meanwhile, flavors were a touch briny, a touch sweet, and certainly enhanced by the application of salt, which highlighted the inherent salinity of the squid.


7: Suimono
A clear soup showed off vibrant, focused flavors along with a great herbaceousness. Floating in the broth was a sweet ebi-shinjo dumpling and a fantastically-textured "crêpe" that I think was made of yuba. A welcomed respite from all the tempura.


8: Ginnan
Ginkgo nuts were crispy on the outside, but chewy on the inside, and had a slight bitterness to them that linked up nicely with a pinch of salt.



9: Uni Dai Hamaki
Next was what the Chef describes as a "cigar," one comprising lush, creamy, almost sugary sea urchin set in a minty shiso wrapper. A neat contrast.


10: Megochi
Big-eyed flathead had some surprisingly concentrated flavors that nonetheless represented an exercise in both subtlety and profundity.


Green tea did a respectable job taking over from the Champagne.


11: Anago
Next came the conger eel, which is arguably Saotome-san's signature dish. It arrived as an impressively large specimen (the single largest piece of tempura I've ever had), cut in half in one seamless motion by the Chef's chopsticks. I found it particularly crispy, but with soft, moist insides and a forceful brine. What was interesting was that some parts of the fish were noticeably more saline than others (I think getting near the tail end), so a dip in tentsuyu was key for moderation.


12: Satsumaimo
At this point, we arrived at the vegetable portion of our meal, and we even got to choose our own veggies. Up first was sweet potato, which fortunately wasn't overly sweet, and had a firm-ish, almost gritty texture that I rather liked.


13: Asupara
Asparagus was juicy and bittersweet, with an especially delicate battering to boot.


14: Shiitake
Shiitake mushroom had a wonderful textural contrast between supple and springy, while its classic umami flavors satisfied as always.


15: Nasu
Eggplant was soft and spongy, but still had a good chew to it, while flavors were surprisingly briny.



16: Tempura Chazuke
We closed things out with the shokuji portion of our dinner. We were given a choice between tendon and tencha, and I obviously went with the latter. The hashira kakiage served as a fitting, satisfying finish to the meal, especially when taken with rice and the heat of wasabi. Also crucial were the konomono (pickles), which included bitter daikon, cucumber two ways, and my favorite: the zesty suancai-like bangiku.


17: Hanamame
Dessert was composed of some disconcertingly large hana-mame (flower beans), which were sugary, nutty, and much better than I expected.

I made it a point to get tempura on this trip, and I'm glad to report that the tempura here was right up there with the best I've had. Saotome's batter is pretty pronounced I'd say, but at the same time elegant, and you certainly don't lose sight of the main ingredient. It's a fine balance--seemingly simple, maybe even a bit old school, yet uncompromisingly precise. They say that the beauty of tempura lies in appreciating subtleties, and I think you get that here.

Kanda (Tokyo, Japan)

October 28, 2019, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Narisawa (Tokyo, Japan)

≪ Previous: Mikawa Zezankyo (Tokyo, Japan)

$

0

0

Nihonryori Kanda
Calm Motoazabu 1F, 3-6-34 Motoazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0046
03.5786.0150
www.nihonryori-kanda.com/english
Mon 10/28/2019, 09:00p-12:20a





After enjoying delicious presentations of yakitori and tempura the two previous evenings, I went for something fancier tonight and opted for my first kaiseki-ish meal of this trip. The venue of choice was Hiroyuki Kanda's eponymous Kanda, which is situated in a sleepy residential neighborhood (I believe the Chef actually lives in the same apartment building as the restaurant) a stone's throw away from the tony Roppongi Hills development. In fact, I was checking out the view from Mori Tower right before dinner.

About the Chef: Kanda Hiroyuki was born on July 1st, 1963 in Tokushima City, the eldest son of a restaurant-owning family. He began working at his parents' place when he was eight, and they taught him the essentials of cooking. After graduating from Jonan High School, he began his formal training at Shoroku Kigawa in Osaka, where he spent four-and-a-half years. In 1986, at age 23, Kanda moved to France and headed up the kitchen at Tomo, a Japanese eatery in Paris. His cooking there was well-regarded, but he ended up returning to Japan in 1991. Now back home, he found employment at Hirohisa Koyama's longstanding Kokin Aoyagi in Tokushima, and the following year, started a ten year period of teaching at Heisei Culinary School, which was also founded by Koyama. By 1995, Kanda was second-in-command at Aoyagi, and in 1999, he was tasked with opening Basara in Tokyo's Akasaka district for Koyama.

He ended up leaving that post at the end of January 2004, and, instead of taking over the family business (which eventually closed in 2012), decided to go his own way, debuting Kanda on May 11th that year. The restaurant was well-received, and in 2007, even received three stars in Michelin's inaugural Tokyo guide, a rating that it's retained through the latest 2020 edition. In 2008, Kanda and five of his chef friends founded FUUDO, a food-focused non-profit that's still active today. He published a cookbook entitled Nihonryori no Zeitaku ("The Luxury of Japanese Cuisine") in September 2010, and in January the following year, launched Sushi Academy London, a spot offering classes in Japanese cookery located at Islington's Highbury Studios (the place shuttered after the 2011 Tohoku earthquake).


Above we see my view from leftmost portion of the counter, which seats eight diners in total. There's also a private dining room off to the side.


The wine list is one of the most unique I've seen, mostly due to how it's laid out. It's completely hand-written, and features one selection per page, replete with the actual label from the bottle--I've never seen anything quite like it before. Given that, I couldn't photograph the entire book, but examples are shown above. As for a printed food menu, there simply isn't one. We enjoyed a 14-course degustation priced at ¥42,350 ($388.64) a head, which is inclusive of a 10% service fee as well as a 10% sales tax. Click for larger versions.


The place setting was pretty straightforward. Note the fish-shaped hashioki (chopsticks holder).


Upon being seated, we were quickly poured a cup of nutty, smoky hojicha, which was refilled constantly throughout the night.


1: Benizuwaigani to Matsutake
Our starting sakizuke course was composed of shreds of both red snow crab and matsutake. Thanks to the way the intrinsic sweetness of the crab combined with the funk of the mushroom, the dish managed to be both austere and luxurious at the same time, which I found pretty neat.


2: Ankimo Toast
Next up was some "finger food" according to the Chef. The monkfish liver was unbelievably subtle at first, so what was interesting was how its earthiness and brine just grew and grew until it was evened out by that soft, sweet bread. Very cool, and no doubt one of the most memorable preparations of ankimo I've had.


To drink, I ordered a bottle of the restaurant's private label, Tokushima-sourced Kanda Junmai Daiginjo [¥12,000 ($110.12)], which just felt like the right thing to do, since I doubt it's available anywhere else. In any case, the sake smelled pretty amazing due to its bountiful amounts of sugary melon on the nose. Its palate, meanwhile, was eminently balanced, with more of that saccharine fruit counterbalanced by fragrant rice and a smidgen of alcoholic heat. Delish.


3: Ayu no Harumaki
We were coming up on the tail end of sweetfish season, so it was great to see this dish, which was ayu, replete with its roe, encased in a fried spring roll wrapper. What made this really work for me was the interaction between the brine of the fish and the overarching herbal, medicinal notes in the dish, while the inclusion of roe added a sandy, gritty textural component. Be sure to make use of included matcha shio (green tea salt) as well, since its bitterness served as a perfect accent to the fish. A standout for me, and probably the best (and most unique) ayu I've ever had.


4: Hirame no Otsukuri
Next came what was probably my favorite presentation of Japanese halibut sashimi ever. The flounder had a satisfyingly soft-yet-chewy consistency that I enjoyed, but the key here was how it married with the dish's ume-based dressing. That balance between sweet-n-sour, brine, and the zing of the shallots really appealed to me.


5: Kawahagi to Kimo Sashimi
Here we had an astonishingly simple-looking plate of sashimi, comprising the flesh and liver of thread-sail filefish (also known as "leather jacket"), which was just coming into season. I first tried the fish alone, and found the meat on the firm, mild side, while the liver was super delicate. Strangely enough, most of the flavor really came after I swallowed. The crux of this course really was the little saucer of kanzuri chili paste on the side. It had a wondrous combination of sweetness and spice that really lifted the dish, transforming something that could be viewed as stark into something altogether different, staggering even.


6: Kawahagi no Atama
We were then presented with the head of the kawahagi above, steamed with sake and kombu. Texturally the fish was tender and succulent, while flavors were subtle and contemplative, with a significant contribution from the kelp.


7: Ebi to Ginnan Manju no Owan
Kanda-san is somewhat known for his seasonal soups, and this particular example featured a shrimp and ginkgo dumpling alongside matsutake and mitsuba. What really struck me here was how well the sort of astringent nature of the ginnan meshed with the inherent sweetness of the shrimp; it was pretty tremendous. At the same time, the mushroom imparted an additional woodsy complexity, and I was a fan of the honewort's zestiness, too.


8: Toro Sushi no Toryufu
Two well-marbled pieces of nigiri appeared before me. I was about to dig in, but then the Chef--with a wide smile on his face--busted out a white truffle and started shaving (and I didn't tell him to stop!). I was actually a bit afraid that the truffle would mask the tuna, but it didn't. Instead, its penetrating musk had a superb back-and-forth with the sheer fattiness of the fish, all while the shari worked an effective contrast to both ingredients. This combo of power-on-power, rich-on-rich really did work.


9: Yaki Ibodai
Japanese butterfish showed off a flawless union of fat, char, savor, and sweetness, while the fried ginnan were delightfully acrid. The star of the show, though, was actually the chestnut, which I found wonderfully sweet, and with a fantastically crunchy exterior to boot.


10: Miyazaki Ushi Katsuretsu
There was no knife provided with the Miyazaki filet, and I quickly understood why. The meat was ridiculously tender, perhaps the most tender cut of steak I've had; in fact, texturally it almost didn't seem like beef. The breading on the cutlet worked to add further interest to the meat, and I liked the brightness of the greens on the side, too. However, what made this really deliver for me was the mustard, which had a slow burn to it that really heightened the wagyu.


My tea cup was swapped for a smaller one at this point, but I believe we were still being served hojicha.


11: Negitoro Maki
Here was definitely one of the most intense versions of negitoro I've had, due to the extra fatty, sinewy nature of the tuna and the uncommonly fresh nature of the onion--it was a great combination, especially with a dab of soy sauce. Along with the roll came two types of konomono (pickles): refreshing, finely-cut cucumber and intensely pungent, boozy narazuke made from uri (cucumber melon gourd).


12: Matsutake Suimono
The course above was quickly followed by a small cup of soup, one featuring heady shards of matsutake, bright twigs of mitsuba, and ultra creamy blocks of sesame tofu.


13: Budo no Zeri
We were in the midst of grape season, so here was a refreshing palate cleanser of sorts featuring the fruit, along with jelly and minty slivers of shiso.


Along with dessert came a cup of genmaicha (i.e. green tea with toasted brown rice), which had a lovely roastiness to it along with a drying bitterness on the back end.


14: Soba Cha Aisukurimu
We ended with an ice cream made with roasted buckwheat, which was simply the best ice cream I'd had in a long while. I loved its familiar savory, nutty flavors, as well as its creamy-yet-gritty consistency. I could've easily eaten a pint of the stuff.

This was a thoroughly enjoyable, yet also somewhat unexpected meal. What really surprised me was the apparent simplicity of Kanda-san's contemporary, kaiseki-inspired cooking. Some of what I witnessed was nearly jarring in that regard, which is sort of the beauty of it. There's a definite directness, a definite clarity, a definite elegance to the cuisine, and it's this amalgamation of straightforwardness, precision, and originality that makes Kanda's style his own.

Narisawa (Tokyo, Japan)

October 29, 2019, 12:35 pm

≫ Next: Oniku Karyu (Tokyo, Japan)

≪ Previous: Kanda (Tokyo, Japan)

$

0

0

Narisawa Restaurant
2-6-15 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0062
03.5785.0799
www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com
Tue 10/29/2019, 12:35p-03:55p





Of all the meals I had in Japan recently, Narisawa was perhaps the one I was most excited about given all the international praise it's garnered over the years. The creation of Yoshihiro Narisawa, the restaurant serves what it describes as "innovative satoyama cuisine."Satoyama refers to a zone of cultivable land situated along mountain foothills, an area where people are supposedly best suited to living and eating naturally, sustainably, and seasonally. This satoyama-inspired ethos pervades Narisawa's cooking, which straddles the line between Japanese tradition and the Chef's European training.

About the Chef: Narisawa Yoshihiro was born on April 11th, 1969 on Aichi Prefecture's Chita Peninsula. His grandfather ran a wagashi (Japanese sweets) shop, while his father operated a pâtisserie. He thus wanted to cook at an early age, and when he turned 19, decided to pursue his dreams in Europe. In France, Narisawa apprenticed with Paul Bocuse and Joël Robuchon, while in Switzerland, he cooked under Frédy Girardet, his most influential teacher. He even spent 1992 in Italy, where he worked with Gualtiero Marchesi as well as Ezio Santin at Antica Osteria del Ponte near Milan. After eight years abroad, he returned home to Japan and, in 1996, opened La Napoule in the seaside city of Odawara, Kanagawa Prefecture.

In 2003, the Chef and his wife Yuko decided to move their business to Tokyo, and Les Créations de Narisawa ended up debuting that November (it was renamed to simply "Narisawa" in 2011). The restaurant was largely well-received, and earned its first Michelin star in the maiden 2008 Tokyo guide. The following year, Narisawa made its first appearance in the "World's 50 Best Restaurants" list, at spot #20, and has remained in the list's upper ranks ever since, peaking at #8 in 2015/2016 (it's currently #22 for 2019). In 2010, the restaurant landed its second Michelin star (which it's kept through the 2020 edition), and in 2013, won the inaugural Sustainable Restaurant Award from Restaurant magazine. More recently, in 2018, Chef Narisawa appeared as a guest judge on the Netflix series The Final Table.


Narisawa is situated on the ground floor of an otherwise nondescript office building. The space is fairly spare, with lots of dark leather and dark wood keeping the dining room free of distraction.


Unsurprisingly, Narisawa is an omakase-only establishment, and our 13-course menu was priced at a not unreasonable ¥30,000 ($275.57) a head, plus 10% tax and 10% service. Note that there are two versions of the menu available--Japanese and English--both of which are pictured above. I guess the thought is: if you're not Japanese, you ought to be pretty cosmopolitan to be dining here, so you probably speak at least a bit of English. Click for larger versions.


The restaurant's place setting featured an engraved acrylic(?) base to start. Not long after we were seated, a sheet of handmade paper was placed on top, and we were presented with two welcome drink options: an uncommonly fine-spun, Kyoto-sourced green tea; and a sweet, boozy, super concentrated sake from Ishikawa's Sogen Shuzo. Both beverages were served in urushi lacquer hiki-sakazuki (flat cups traditionally used in tea ceremony) that, when combined with the aforementioned paper, were meant to evoke the visuals of the Japanese flag. Two minutes after being poured our drinks, Chef Narisawa came out to our table to greet us, which was a nice touch.


1: "Bread of the Forest 2010"• Moss
We were then presented with apple- and cinnamon-enriched bread dough, which was--aided by a small candle underneath--still in the process of fermenting. I'd never seen anything like this before.


2: Satoyama Scenery and Essence of the Forest
Our first proper course was Narisawa's signature satoyama no fukei, an edible terrain of sorts featuring seasonal ingredients arranged to evoke a natural landscape. Composed of a "soil" of okara (soybean pulp) and green tea powder laid over a base of fermented soy yogurt, it really did taste as woodsy and verdant as it looked, conveying a mish-mash of earthy, vegetal, astringent, and minty nuances, while the crispy fried burdock(?) gave up contrasting sweet-savory notes. Meanwhile, on the side was a cup filled with mori no essensu, or water infused with cedar and oak. It did an admirable job recalling the essence of a fresh forest spring, and duly enhanced the atmospheric nature of the course. I have to note that, curiously enough, we were encouraged to use our hands here, like we were foraging in the woods.


Getting back to the bread, after about nine minutes of fermentation, a server proceeded to scoop up the dough and place it in an ishinabe-style hot stone bowl, along with some chestnut powder, and the whole shebang was left to cook.


To drink, I opted for a bottle of bubbly, the NV Vin Mousseux "Spécial", Rue de Vin, Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, Rose, Nagano [¥22,000 ($202.08)]. The nose here was superb, and the wine smelled like fruit preserves on toast. Tasting it, I got more toastiness up front, leading to nutty, oxidative flavors undergirded by a layer of robust stone fruit. This was my first time have a Japanese sparkler, and I have to say that I was pretty impressed.



3: Sea Snake, Okinawa • Soft Shelled Turtle, Saga
Here was a soup featuring an irabu (black-banded sea krait, a type of venomous sea snake) broth, suppon, and kiku no hana (chrysanthemum flowers). I found the liquid heady, briny, and herbaceous, with a medicinal bent, while there was also this wonderfully dainty spice that grew and lingered. As for the turtle dumpling, I was definitely a fan, and could've used a few more of 'em. Note that we were also presented with a dried, smoked example of the snake to peer at while we were eating, which was an unusual touch.


At this point, the bread had been "baking" for 12 minutes at around 200°C and was finally revealed to us.



4: Japanese Yam, Saga • Caviar
A medallion of deep-fried jinenjo had a pillow-y consistency as well as an almost "cheesy" character to it. Caviar offered up an oceany juxtaposition, while the wild yam came back again on the finish with a noticeable sweetness. Fun.


Time to finally try the bread, which was excellent: soft, fluffy, and loaded with plenty of sweet autumnal spice. On the side, meanwhile, was a "moss butter" that came coated with black olive and spinach powder. It had a salty, earthy funk to it, and actually melded surprisingly well with the sweetness of the roll. Some of the best bread 'n' butter I've had, no question.


5: Amberjack, Hokkaido • Kabosu, Kagoshima / Salmon Roe, Hokkaido
Buri sashimi was wondrously fatty and lush and jam-packed with umami, yet somehow delicate and elegant at the same time. It was also unbelievably sweet. A kabosu-based ponzu imparted further citrusy, savory accents to the dish, while the Hokkaido ikura imparted pops of brine. Even better? The sheer zestiness from the slivers of ginger up top.



6: Winter Melon, Kanagawa • Tiger Prawn, Oita / Sea Urchin, Hokkaido / Kurakakoi Kombu, Rebun Island, Hokkaido
Kanagawa togan served both as an edible vessel and as a foil to the sweet brine of kuruma ebi and sea urchin. Matsutakes added an earthy, autumnal musk to the dish, and I loved the slight mintiness present. This was a dish that just tasted of the season, and felt very apropos for the rainy weather we were having.


7: Rosy Seabass, Ishikawa • Rice, Kyoto
Akamutsu (i.e. nodoguro) was charcoal-grilled with black vinegar, making for a supple, fatty, eminently luxurious fish with a perfectly crisp, salty skin. It was delicious just by itself, but what made things even better was the balance provided by the seaweed and especially the shari, which had just a touch of sweetness; it all made for a flawless conflux of flavors that I found immensely gratifying. This was my favorite course of the meal, and no doubt one of the best pieces of cooked fish I've ever had.


8: Conger Pike, Aichi • Sudachi, Tokushima
Matsutake was rolled in dagger-tooth pike conger, coated with panko, and deep-fried like a croquette. Now, hamo is known for its thousands of tiny bones that ostensibly can't be removed, and thus traditionally have to be cut into fine pieces using the hamo no honekiri method. What was shocking here was that I couldn't find a single bone, anywhere. This resulted in a smooth, springy, delicate-tasting flesh that was smartly perked up by the crunch and savor of bread crumbs, while the mushrooms added a palpable funk at the dish's core. Brightening things up, meanwhile, was the combination of red shiso and green sansho sauces, as well as a sudachi juice "foam." Probably the best version of the eel I've ever eaten.


9: Eel, Aichi
Time for more eel. On the right was soft, sticky steamed unagi with pricks of sansho pepper, which had all your classic kabayaki-esque sweet-n-savory flavors going on. The left was even better: charcoal-grilled eel, one with delectably juicy flesh underneath a wonderfully crisp, salty skin. It meshed superbly with the included wasabi, herbs, and sweet vinegar-marinated cucumbers.


10: "Life & Death" Yezo Shika Deer, Hokkaido
This seitoshi-inspired plate was centered on a smoky, full-flavored cut of yezoshika fawn, which I found tender yet satisfyingly chewy at the same time. The intensity of Alba white truffle melded beautifully with the gaminess of the meat, and I appreciated the pervasive astringency of sautéed onion, too. A wild berry sauce imparted just enough sweetness to the mix, while further interest was provided by ginkgo, beets, potato, pumpkin, as well as a carbonized maple leaf (momiji).


11: Melon, Kumamoto
Our first dessert worked as sort of a palate cleanser, and displayed melon in multiple forms: cream soda, juice, and sorbet, all with vanilla ice cream. Think fun and fruity, and even a bit boozy(?).




12: Chestnuts, Kyoto • Green Yuzu, Shizuoka
A traditional sweet made from Kyoto waguri arrived wrapped in leaves, and had this herbaceous, acerbic quality that I didn't mind. Along with it came a fantastically fruity, boozy rum ice cream, replete with arrowroot mochi (made from Kumamoto kuzu) for texture. It melded swimmingly with the accompanying chestnut sauce, and I also appreciated the overarching sourness contributed by that green yuzu.


13: Yame Matcha, Fukuoka
Mignardise duties were handled by monaka stuffed with matcha jelly, mochi, and adzuki. To me, the flavors seemed to alternate between grass jelly and red bean, with the rice cake wafers giving up a smoky, nutty taste.


We concluded with a complimentary coffee.

I had high hopes coming in here, and the restaurant didn't let me down. The cooking does a great job blending Narisawa's background in nouvelle cuisine with the intricacies, ingredients, and seasonality inherent in Japanese culinary tradition, while at the same time allowing for injections of whimsy, creativity, and the Chef's own personality, not to mention his immutable reverence for nature. Narisawa's helping to push things forward, and overall, there's just a lot here that should get you excited about the future of Japanese cuisine.

Oniku Karyu (Tokyo, Japan)

October 29, 2019, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Gion Suetomo (Kyoto, Japan)

≪ Previous: Narisawa (Tokyo, Japan)

$

0

0

Oniku Karyu Beef Restaurant
K Building 1F, 11-11 Nihonbashi Kobunacho, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 103-0024
03.3249.7776
www.karyu-tokyo.com
Tue 10/29/2019, 09:00p-11:45p



Following a pretty stellar lunch at Narisawa, we opted for something heartier for dinner and ended up at Haruka Katayanagi's Oniku Karyu. The restaurant adheres to the ethos and form of kaiseki, but with the twist that nearly every dish incorporates Japanese beef.

About the Chef: Katayanagi Haruka was born in 1978 in Okayama Prefecture, though he was raised in Tokyo, and had his first beef experience as a child when his father made a butter- and soy sauce-seasoned sirloin steak for him. He eventually developed an interest in music, and later left college to pursue employment as an orchestral percussionist. However, he was sidelined by an injury, and thus decided to get back into food. In 1998, Katayanagi began working at a major hotel in Tokyo, and stayed there for nearly six years learning the ins and outs of Western cookery before continuing his training at three beef-focused spots in the City.

He then decided to strike out on his own, and subsequently opened Wagyu Meisai Zen on February 14th, 2006 (at the site of the current restaurant). Zen was more of a straight yakiniku joint at the start, with overhead vents and all, but gradually became fancier and fancier as time went on. In fact, it was even awarded a Michelin star in 2015 (for the 2016 guide). However, Katayanagi wanted to challenge himself further, and thus shuttered the business. He then completely remodeled the space, reducing seating to a mere 16 (four at the counter and the rest in two private dining rooms), and re-opened in October 2016 as Oniku Karyu. The new spot garnered a Michelin star in the 2017 edition of the Tokyo book, which it has kept through the 2020 guide.


We enjoyed an omakase menu this evening that featured matsutake mushrooms in addition to the wagyu beef. The cost was ¥27,000 ($248.01) a head, plus 10% service and 10% tax. As you can see above, the menu's only available in Japanese, but do note the Chef's signature and hanko seal on it. Click for larger versions.


Drink-wise, there's a pretty decent wine list, and also available are sakes, shochus, beers, and various other alcoholic beverages. Corkage is ¥4,000 ($36.74) a bottle. Click for larger versions.


The restaurant's place setting was on the simpler side, but did include the menu pictured above, which was much appreciated.


To drink, I began with the namachu, a.k.a. a medium-sized glass of Yebisu [¥790 ($7.26)], on draught. It was about what you'd expect: sweet and malty and lightly hoppy, with a nice fluffy head to boot.


1: Sakizuke
Our seasonal appetizer course was a hot, gooey mass of nutty, smoky toryufu tofu (made with sesame I believe), topped off with a healthy amount of sweet Rihei chestnut shavings. Really intriguing--I don't think I'd ever had anything quite like this before.



2: Yutaka-mono
A cup of wagyu sune niku no shichu (beef shank stew) was super comforting. It smelled sort of like chili, and showed off some utterly deep, savory, homey flavors, along with a touch of sweetness from what I believe was carrot.


The Oolong Tea [¥720 ($6.61)] hit the spot, and was especially floral this evening.


3: Otsukuri
Next was a temakizushi-style hand roll with wagyu and ki-uni, along with a small saucer of soy sauce. The sea urchin melded beautifully with the beef, while the wasabi applied a heat that really helped bring everything together. My favorite part, though, just might've been the fantastic crunchiness and umami from the seaweed. Superb.



4: Agemono
This was one of the most gorgeous cuts of beef I've seen, a wagyu hire reakatsu (wagyu fillet rare cutlet). What was great here was the back-and-forth between the super tender meat and the crispy panko(?) breading. I found it particularly tasty when eaten with the included kabosu-wari sosu, while the heat of the wasabi was seemingly tempered by the beef. The ginnan, meanwhile, imparted a nice bitterness to the mix.


My next beverage was the Fuwatoro Pain [¥720 ($6.61)], a pineapple liquor from Fukuoka, served on the rocks. Thanks to its sweetness, it pretty much tasted like pineapple juice, with just barely a hint of booze.



5: Wanmono
Here was perhaps the most unusual dobin mushi I've had, one featuring wagyu tail meat, matsutake from Yamaguchi Prefecture, and a small portion of abalone. The oxtail itself ate as tender and as savory as you'd want, and was contrasted against the bitterness of those well-textured mushrooms. At the same time, the awabi was springy and chewy, but what stood out the most to me was the sheer richness and oiliness of the broth (which really called for a squirt of sudachi).


A glass of Cassis Oolong [¥750 ($6.89)] displayed fruity flavors up front that led to unmistakable notes of tea on the back end.


6: Shiizakana
A beautiful wagyu hire no tataki was surprisingly delicate and fine-spun, and married well with its bright, herby topping of hana hojiso (shiso flower). Accompaniments included a delightfully tangy ponzu sauce as well as tamanegi shoyu with a piquant dollop of karashi mustard.


The hojicha was seemingly darker-toned than usual, which wasn't necessarily a bad thing.



7: Yakimono
A cut of wagyu Chateaubriand looked awfully tasty, and it was, giving up a long-lingering richness matched by a smidge of sweetness from its sumibi teriyaki charcoal grilling. Concurrently, the matsutakes (sourced from Iwate Prefecture) contributed a medicinal tinge to the dish, and seemed to draw out the inherent sweetness of the beef. I didn't mind a squirt from the included sudachi, either.


The Aragoshi Obai [¥720 ($6.61)] was a plum liquor from Nara, and came mixed with water. I found it pretty restrained in terms of actual fruit, as well as ever so slightly astringent.





8: Shokuji
Tajimagyu sukiyaki conveyed a deft blend of sweetness and char, while its dip of ultra-rare Yatsugatake egg yolk (sourced from Yamanashi Prefecture's Nakamura Farm) contributed a near ridiculous amount of creaminess and luxury. If that wasn't enough, we also had a hearty matsutake gohan, which featured rice that was deeply imbued with the earthiness of the 'shrooms, while completing the course was a selection of konomono (seasonal pickles).


9: Tome-wan
Along with the items above came a cup of miso soup. Due to the incorporation of yet more beef, it was far richer and more potent than usual. It also contained gelatinous nameko mushrooms, as well as tofu, which helped even out the strong flavors present.


Green tea was a perfect pairing with the dessert to follow.


10: Mizugashi
Our dessert course was composed of two items. The first was a matcha purin, a smooth, wonderfully bittersweet green tea pudding layered with sugary kuromitsu (black honey). Even better, though, was the warabi mochi, which was super soft and jiggly, with a fantastic sweet nuttiness to it courtesy of the kinako (roasted soybean powder)--it was seriously some of the best mochi I've ever had.

Over the years I've had my share of kaiseki-inspired meals, but never one that was this utterly beef-centric. It was a welcomed change-up, and I took pleasure in seeing various the facets of wagyu presented. Katayanagi-san was able to showcase different textures, temperatures, and tastes, while also varying how much the meat was at the forefront, especially vis-à-vis the matsutake. You may want to consider this place if you're looking for something a bit more off the beaten path.

Gion Suetomo (Kyoto, Japan)

October 30, 2019, 6:00 pm

≫ Next: Kiyota (Tokyo, Japan)

≪ Previous: Oniku Karyu (Tokyo, Japan)

$

0

0

Gion Suetomo Restaurant
4-151-73 Komatsucho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto 605-0811
75.496.8799
gionsuetomo.kyoto
Wed 10/30/2019, 06:00p-08:00p



Though most of my time in Japan was spent in Tokyo on this visit, I did take the Shinkansen down to Kyoto for a day trip. After exploring the City for a few hours, we ended up having an early dinner at Hisashi Suetomo's eponymous Gion Suetomo, situated right across the street from the historic Kennin-ji temple. It's a traditional Kyoto-style kaiseki restaurant, which just felt appropriate given where we were.

About the Chef: Suetomo Hisashi was born ca. 1973 in Kyoto, and grew up in a family involved in the fishmonger business. He started cooking at an early age, and by the end of elementary school, already knew that he wanted to become a chef. He was able to get into college on the strength of his basketball skills, but ended up choosing culinary school instead. After graduation, Suetomo was able to find his way into the kitchen of Gion Maruyama (located just on other side of Kennin-ji), where he trained for eight years under Chef/Owner Yoshio Maruyama. Following, he cooked at the now-shuttered Gion Hanakasumi before striking out on his own in 2008.

Following a bit of searching, he found a sukiya-zukuri-style building suitable for his solo project, apparently chosen due to its ability to handle the construction of a well (the area's known for the quality of its groundwater). The Chef thus opened Gion Suetomo on February 11th, 2009, at the age of 35. The restaurant quickly scored a Michelin star in the inaugural 2010 Kyoto/Osaka guide, and was promoted to two stars the following year, a rating that it retained for the 2012 printing. However, the place was reduced to a single star in 2013, and was seemingly left out of the 2018 edition.


After making our way inside, we were seated in a small waiting area (replete with the water feature above) for a few minutes before being led to the main dining area and its eight-seater kitchen counter.


While waiting, we were provided a sweet 'n' spicy beverage composed of milk and ginger, which functioned as a surprisingly effective apéritif.


Our kaiseki-ryori menu was priced at ¥29,500 ($271.09) per person, inclusive of tax and service, though there are even pricier options available, not to mention supplemental courses (such as matsutake mushrooms and what I believe was spiny lobster this evening). As far as drinks go, you get a small selection of wine, as well as beer, sake, and shochu. Click for larger versions.



1: Sakizuke
Our appetizer course brought wonderfully soft, sweet, ultra refined-tasting morsels of zuwai-gani (snow crab), all set over big, sticky grains of rice. A seemingly simple, but very satisfying combination, and a lovely start to the meal.


We then enjoyed a complimentary welcome drink of robustly sweet, boozy sake, served in a traditional sakazuki saucer.


2: Hassun
The most visually striking of our courses, the hassun comprised a selection of small seasonal dishes:

• I began with the ika shiokara (salted squid), which I found intensely saline, slippery, and firm to the bite.
• Contained in some sort of citrus fruit (kabosu?), the salmon roe was pretty much just what you'd want and expect.
• Edamame were spot on, and paired beautifully with the bitterness of suizenjina greens and the zestiness of ginger vinegar.
• The kuri (chestnut) was perhaps the best I've had thanks to its wonderful sprinkling of salt and meaty, gratifying consistency.
• A kamasu tataki (seared barracuda) had a great smoke to it, and paired swimmingly with the brightness of daikon-oroshi (grated radish).
• Nametake mushrooms were expectedly mucilaginous, while their subdued woodsiness made sense with the floral character of chrysanthemum.
• Last up, and right in the middle of the plate: a singular sticky cured egg yolk.

3: Owan
Our soup course featured an uncommonly large, impossibly "fluffy" scallop dumpling with a subtle sweetness and brine. A large shimeji mushroom, meanwhile, contributed a mild earthiness, while the yuzu worked as a contrasting element.


Drink-wise, things started with a half bottle of the NV Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut [¥9,000 ($82.71)]. The wine had a fairly luxurious nose showcasing sweet-tart apple alongside light toast and lemon. The palate brought more pome fruit, as well as backing notes of citrus, nuts, minerals, and a slight spice. Pretty nice.


4: Mukozuke
The sashimi course was composed of cuts of tilefish, coated with its own roe, which added an intriguing textural element to the dish. The seaweed on the side had a definite funk to it, while the burn of that wasabi was absolutely key.


5: Oshinogi
Next came perhaps the cleanest cut of saba (mackerel) I'd ever had. It was pretty wonderful by itself, but was even better with a dip of the included karashi shoyu (mustard soy sauce), which also included a dollop of nashi oroshi, or grated pear.



6: Yakimono
For our grill course, the Chef cooked komochi ayu right before our eyes. The "parent" sweetfish was excellent, showing off a great combination of char and brine, while the fish roe made things much more interesting texturally. Yum.


At this point we moved on to sake, and were thus presented with our choice of glass.


The first sake was the Imanishi Shuzo Mimurosugi Tokubetsu Junmai [¥???] from Nara Prefecture. Served cold, I found it light and balanced, with a generally dry disposition and a persistent acidity that made it work with the food. As for the question marks in the price, I actually don't know what the cost of this was. Nothing was broken out separately on the final bill, which amounted to only ¥15,350 ($141.06), as we'd pre-paid for the meal itself.


7: Takiawase
Here was a mildly bitter portion of simmered kabura (turnip), one that really made sense with the zestiness of the accompanying turnip greens. The dish's thick broth contributed a nuanced floral element due to its use of pickled chrysanthemum, while yuzu gave things a much-appreciated brightness.


Roasty hojicha was provided to pair with the rice course.





8: Gohan
The mukago gohan was on point. I loved how well-imbued it was with the zippiness of mitsuba, while those supple taro propagules offered up an elegant richness that linked up with the nuttiness of white sesame. Along with the rice came a sweet potato-enhanced miso soup as well as a plate of konomono pickles, replete with kombu tsukudani.


We also had a warm sake, the Fumotoi Shuzo Madoka Kimoto Junmai Honkara [¥???] from Yamagata Prefecture. It was definitely the more aggressive of the two sakes. I found it harsher, boozier, with a much stronger rice character that was almost nutty and even a bit spicy.


9: Mizumono
Dessert brought sweet-yet-vegetal figs topped with a sugary honey jelly and a sprig of delightfully minty, anise-y chervil. Fun and refreshing.


To close: a frothy, unabashedly astringent preparation of matcha green tea that really hit the spot.


The extra rice was placed in a lovely wooden take-out box, which puts to shame anything I've seen at any restaurant in the States. The Japanese really are second to none when it comes to packaging.

I wish I could've lingered longer at the restaurant, perhaps having another drink or two, but I had a bullet train to catch, sadly, and the staff was kind enough to call for a taxi (which arrived very promptly). In any case, I have to say that my meal at Suetomo was pretty distinct compared to anything else I had on this visit. The cooking had a definite straightforwardness, a directness to it, qualities that lent a certain clarity to the way ingredients were conveyed. It all made for a worthy introduction to the ethos of Kyoto cuisine.

Kiyota (Tokyo, Japan)

October 31, 2019, 12:10 pm

≫ Next: Nihonryori Ryugin (Tokyo, Japan)

≪ Previous: Gion Suetomo (Kyoto, Japan)

$

0

0

Kiyota Sushi
6-3-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061
03.3572.4854
Thu 10/31/2019, 12:10p-02:25p





Naturally I had to fit in some sushi during my time in Japan, and ended up at Kiyota. One of Tokyo's most storied sushi-ya, Kiyota opened all the way back in 1963. The restaurant really began making a name for itself with second-generation Chef/Owner Takeaki Niitsu, who apparently was able to prepare sushi for the Emperor of Japan. Niitsu retired in 2000 and decided to pass the business on to Chiba native Masashi Kimura, who formally took over in 2001. In 2016, Kimura announced that his second-in-command Norihiko Yoshizawa (who worked under him for 15 years) would be succeeding him, though he soon changed his mind and instead picked Hiroshi Saeki.

Saeki was the head of the well-regarded Sushi Saeki in Osaka, and was supposed to spend a year in Kyoto before moving to Tokyo to take over Kiyota in the first half of 2019. However, Saeki seemed to have taken a liking to Kyoto, and eventually decided to stay, opening up the second iteration of his eponymous restaurant there in October 2018 (the original shuttered that June). With Saeki out of the picture, Kiyota was indeed handed off to Yoshizawa, the now fourth-generation taisho. Kimura, meanwhile, ended up opening the even higher-end Kiyota Hanare in December 2018. Also located in Ginza, that place was originally meant for loyal Kiyota customers, but is ostensibly open to the public now, though at a staggering price point of roughly $1,000 a person.

Kiyota has largely built its reputation on the quality of its bluefin tuna, which is sourced exclusively from renowned supplier Ishiji at Toyosu Market (formerly at Tsukiji). Giving its longstanding relationship with Ishiji, the restaurant is evidently able to secure the harakami-ichiban, the finest, and priciest cut of the belly. Top-notch tuna doesn't come cheap, and that's reflected in Kiyota's pricing. Our lunch here was ¥35,000 ($323.98) a person, while the cost at dinner rises to ¥50,000 ($462.83). Add on top of that a 10% sales tax, though there's no separate service charge.

A fun fact: See the bicycle in front of the restaurant? Apparently that's what the Chef rides to the fish market to pick up the day's seafood.


Upon entering, I was quickly seated at the nine-person bar, reputedly crafted out of 400-year-old hinoki cypress. I've read reports stating that this same wood has been in use since the restaurant opened nearly six decades ago, which is a bit surprising given that all of the sushi was served directly on the counter (the upper section), which I'd never seen before.


1: Ikura
Before the sushi, we were treated to a few otsumami courses. The first was this salmon roe, which was unlike any I've had before. I'm not sure what the Chef did differently here, but the eggs were much, much "stickier" than usual, with a heightened level of richness and brine.


2: Awabi
Abalone had a great texture, while its umami-laced flavors were enhanced by a topping of saline jelly, which I believe was made from a stock incorporating the innards of the gastropod.


3: Awabi Kimo
Next came the liver of the abalone, which ate as earthy and funky as it looked.


4: Honmaguro Sashimi
Here were two cuts of bluefin. I started with the akami, which was so much brinier than usual, and perfect with the zing of the included wasabi. The toro, meanwhile, was interesting in its own right, since it had an almost beef-like fattiness to it--very cool. I believe the restaurant uses Oma tuna (caught off the northern coast of Aomori Prefecture), oft regarded to be the best available, and which is in peak season during the fall.


5: Sashimi Moriawase
Yoshizawa-san then served three more varieties of sashimi. Kohada (gizzard shad) was firm to the bite, with an assertive brine that went great with a dab of wasabi. On the left was akagai no himo, or ark shell mantle, which I found mildly sweet, with a lovely crunch to it. The most interesting item was the kobashira, otherwise known as the adductor muscle of aoyagi. A surprisingly valuable part of the surf clam, it was super, super sweet, with a firm, "crisp" consistency reminiscent of tairagai (pen shell).


6: Madai Sashimi
Red sea bream displayed a snappy-yet-creamy consistency that I really enjoyed, while its flavors were ridiculously clean, and took well to hits of salt (in lieu of soy sauce).


7: Bafun Uni
The Hokkaido sea urchin was the best example I've ever had. It was just so much sweeter than what we get in the US, with no trace of bitterness or minerality, and matched perfectly with the accompanying rice (which had some unusually distinct grains).


8: Hamaguri no Ushiojiru
Here was a cozy clam soup to cleanse the palate before the parade of nigiri to follow.


The Chef's ginger was pretty intense, and quite a bit saltier than I'm accustomed to.


9: Shimofuri
Kiyota is famous for the quality of its tuna, so it made sense to start with it. Yoshizawa-san described this first cut as between otoro and chutoro, and texturally, the fish was very, very fine-spun. I found it delicate-tasting initially, but then this salinity hit me and lingered long on the finish, all while there was this pervasive sweetness encompassing everything. Delicious.


10: Otoro
An extremely well-marbled piece of otoro was perhaps the fattiest, oiliest example I've eaten, while its sweetness level was also a big, big step up from normal. I definitely appreciated the shari here for balance. Another showstopper.


11: Akami
This lean cut of bluefin showed off a permeating sort of brine that was simultaneously robust, yet refined, and I got a great hit of wasabi on the back end that served as the perfect finishing touch. Kiyota's tuna lives up to its reputation.


12: Kobashira Maki
With the tuna done with, clam adductor made another appearance, this time in roll form. The sweetness of the muscle was a good match with the salty, umami-laden smack of the seaweed, all while the rice effectively moderated it all.


To drink, I opted for some bubbly, specifically a bottle of the NV Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut [¥20,000 ($185.13)]. The wine had a surprisingly restrained nose with very light oxidation and just a hint of pome fruit. The palate brought a healthy amount of toast and oxidation, along with fruity, citrusy notes, some minerals, and a trace of honey. Overall I found this rather neutral, which is probably a good thing for sushi.


13: Kohada
The first of two hikarimono was the gizzard shad, which veered quite a bit sweeter than usual, though its signature brine was still there, dutifully evened out by the very distinct nature of the rice.


14: Hirame
Flounder was more full-flavored than I'm typically accustomed to (not a bad thing), while texturally, the fish had a rather sticky, chewy mouthfeel.


15: Ika
Ink squid had a pleasantly firm, creamy, gummy consistency, while its relatively subdued flavors matched up swimmingly with the light touch of wasabi present. And again, the rice really made itself known here for contrast.


16: Ikura
More restrained compared to the version I had earlier in the meal, the salmon roe was beautifully balanced by the sweet-savory nature of the seaweed here.


17: Hamaguri
Hard clam had a soft, spongy texture, while its surprisingly refined salinity was paired with a dollop of sweet-ish sauce.


Green tea was enjoyed throughout the lunch.


18: Akagai
The ark shell was a real treat. It was spot on texturally, and I was a big fan of its permeating sweetness and how that went back-and-forth between the clam's brine and the slight burn of wasabi.


19: Uni Maki
Our second roll did a great job playing the sugary, super creamy nature of sea urchin against counteracting forces from the seaweed and rice.


20: Saimaki Ebi
Young kuruma ebi was gorgeously textured, and was near ridiculously sweet, its finish bordering on sugary. I'm pretty sure this was the sweetest "sweet shrimp" I've ever had.


21: Saba
The mackerel was quite unlike what you typically find. In terms of feel, the neta was extraordinarily soft, pillow-y almost, while its taste was unbelievably fruity at first, with the fish's trademark salinity appearing only on the finish. This might be the best mackerel sushi I've tried.


22: Tamagoyaki
The gyoku here was more of the "cake" style, and its flavors leaned sweet and homey.


23: Tekkamaki
Our third hosomaki incorporated both toro and lean tuna, which actually made for a great juxtaposition of textures. Taste-wise, think utterly classic, just as you'd want.


24: Anago
The saltwater eel was one of the strongest examples I'd ever encountered. The key was its sear, which gave the fish a superb exterior crispness, while flavors represented a perfect balance between savory and sweet.


25: Kappamaki
Functioning almost as a palate cleanser, the cucumber roll conveyed the bright, crunchy nature of the veggie, countered by a noticeable wasabi burn.


26: Kanpyo Maki
Last up was the teppo maki, featuring crunchy, sweet-n-sour strips of dried gourd.


27: Kaki
I'm generally not a fan of persimmons, but I don't think I've had any better than this. Texturally the fruit straddled the line between crisp and supple, while its sweetness was far more elegant than usual.

This meal was pretty much flawless, and what sort of struck me was the unfussy, uncluttered nature of the food here. The various neta were really front and center, and the feeling I got was that Yoshizawa-san really wants to let the ingredients speak for themselves (as he didn't do much talking of his own!). Kiyota's famed tuna delivered for sure, but so did everything else, while the shari I found very neutral, making itself known when needed. I feel confident saying that this was easily among the finest sushi experiences I've ever had.

---

Nihonryori Ryugin (Tokyo, Japan)

October 31, 2019, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Kioicho Mitani (Tokyo, Japan)

≪ Previous: Kiyota (Tokyo, Japan)

$

0

0

Nihonryori Ryugin
Midtown Hibiya 7F, 1-1-2 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0006
03.6630.0007
www.nihonryori-ryugin.com
Thu 10/31/2019, 08:00p-11:25p



RyuGin was the setting for the final dinner of my visit to Japan. It's a restaurant that I really felt I needed to try, as I'd been curious about the place for at least a decade now. I think I first found out about it in the late 2000s after a friend dined there and was raving about his meal. The creation of Chef/Owner Seiji Yamamoto, RyuGin is named after part of a short Japanese poem describing a singing dragon, while the cooking here has been described as kaiseki-ryori imbued with influences from modernist cuisine.

About the Chef: Yamamoto Seiji was born in 1970 in Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture. At age 11, he learned to make a simple dish of rice with stewed beef and simmered veggies at elementary school. He then saved his money, went to the market to purchase ingredients, and recreated the dish for his mother; she was impressed, and this drove him to regularly help her with the cooking. However, this also meant that he didn't have much time to play, which irked him, but he soon realized that it was all worth it to see how happy it made his mom. By the age of 15, he knew that he wanted to become a chef. Yamamoto attended culinary school on Shikoku, and following graduation, secured an apprenticeship at Hirohisa Koyama's longstanding Aoyagi restaurant in Tokushima.

He spent 11 years there learning all about traditional Japanese cuisine, and was even able to work his way up to the position of head chef (note: he was there the same time as Hiroyuki Kanda). However, Yamamoto struck out on his own in 2003, and on December 23rd (the birthday of Emperor Akihito), at age 33, opened Nihonryori RyuGin, an 18-seater spot in Tokyo's Roppongi district. The place wasn't particularly busy at first, and the Chef even resorted to making late night curry in order to attract salarymen. In November 2004, he presented at the Gastronomika conference in San Sebastián, and got inspired by all the molecular cooking he saw (remember, this was the heyday of elBulli), which soon informed his own cuisine. The restaurant thus became known for its "technology-driven" fare, and in 2007, was awarded two stars in Michelin's inaugural Tokyo guide. Business picked up, and the Chef stopped making curry.

In 2010, RyuGin made its first appearance (at #48) in the "World's 50 Best Restaurants" list before peaking at #20 the following year (its ranking has fallen in recent years, and was #62 in the latest 2019 list). November 2011 saw the restaurant upgraded to three Michelin stars, a rating its retained from the 2012 edition to the latest 2020 release. In June 2012, Yamamoto opened Tonku RyuGin on the 101st floor of Hong Kong's International Commerce Centre (the tallest building in the region); the place received two stars in the latest 2019 Michelin Hong Kong guide. This was followed up by Shoun RyuGin in Taipei in September 2014, which landed two stars in the maiden 2018 Michelin Taipei directory (the rating was retained for 2019).

In December 2015, the French Foreign Ministry's La Liste ranked RyuGin as #14 in the world, and the restaurant rose all the way to the #1 spot in the 2020 guide (in a four-way tie). Meanwhile, Gault Millau launched in Tokyo in December 2016, and rated RyuGin highly at 19/20 (a rating it still has). Yamamoto then made a big move in 2018, when he relocated his restaurant to the Tokyo Midtown Hibiya building; the new spot opened on August 21st. In February 2019, he was awarded the "American Express Icon Award - Asia" from the folks behind the "50 Best" list, and in June, he, along with Yoshihiro Narisawa, cooked dinner for attendees of the G20 Osaka summit.

Note: I had to use my phone for the photos contained in this post, as apparently RyuGin doesn't permit standalone cameras. Evidently the reason for this is that they've experienced issues in the past with guests dropping their cameras on (and thus breaking) the tableware (some of which are antique pieces hundreds of years old).


RyuGin keeps owls in an enclosure in the waiting room, which has to be one of the crazier things I've seen at a restaurant. Actually, at first I thought that the birds were stuffed, but then one turned to me, eerily.


Above we see the main dining area, which isn't particularly large. There are also a couple private dining rooms available, and total capacity is 40.


The restaurant's table setting showed off a sort of restrained luxury, and I was particularly taken aback by the unusual green hue of the tablecloth and napkin. Note the engraving of Mount Fuji contained in the water glass.


We were soon presented with an envelope containing the night's menu, along with a piping hot cup of creamy, super funky (almost briny in fact) mushroom soup.


Printed on roughly-textured paper, the menu definitely had an atypical layout, and was obviously very proudly Japanese. The cost of the meal was ¥50,600 ($468.34) per person, inclusive of tax, service, and also one alcoholic beverage, strangely enough. There are also seasonal fugu and matsuba crab menus that are even pricier. Note also the RyuGin sticker I was given, an odd touch that I don't think I'd ever encountered before. Click for a larger version.


As mentioned above, the cost of the meal actually included a drink. First up was the 2015 Shizen Sparkling Koshu, a sparkling wine from Shizuoka. It had a great nose filled with sweet-tart grape and wisps of citrus fruit, while the palate displayed juicy green apple, cut by a touch of minerality, leading to yeasty funk on the back end--very nice overall. There was also the 2018 Rosier Junmai Ginjo from Nagano's Igaya Shuzo. The sake had loads of lemon on the nose, along with a distinct ricey sweetness, and tasting it, I got a lovely citrus element that almost recalled yuzu, along with a backbone of alcoholic heat and more rice character.

Also on the subject of alcohol, there was a wine/sake pairing offered at a hefty ¥50,000 ($462.83), which, in its defense, did include the likes of the '98 A.-F. Gros Richebourg, '99 Cheval Blanc, cult sake Juyondai, and the Super 7 below. If you prefer to go by the bottle, there are about 30 sakes available (some very, very high-end), along with a couple hundred wine selections, mostly French (Yamamoto-san apparently has some sommelier training). Corkage isn't allowed from what I've read.


We were then presented with a choice of chopsticks, and ended up choosing white and red, which felt appropriate given that they're the colors of the Japanese flag (our server seemed very pleased by this selection). The hashi were certainly the nicest pair I'd encountered on the trip, and we were even encouraged to take them home (with accompanying boxes, natch) as a souvenir.


1a: Specialty plate for Straight of Japan
For our first course, creamy Toyama Bay shiro ebi (glass shrimp) was combined with Hokkaido sea urchin, making for a marriage of two types of saline sweetness, both contrasted by the bright, minty nature of the greenery.


1b: Fig, Sesame
Foie gras meshed absolutely beautifully with the fruitiness of Sado Island black fig, but even better was how the liver integrated with the nuttiness of sesame, while macadamia and the piquancy of myoga made themselves known on the close. This was one of the best bites of foie I've ever had--superb.



1c: Stone, Surf Clam
Dashi-marinated hokkigai was cooked ishiyaki-style (i.e. on a hot stone). The sweetness of the clams was fantastic, and I loved how sudachi and wasabi served as perfect exclamation points in the dish. Also key was the juxtaposition of textures from the two different cuts: one was chewier, while one skewed toward the suppler side.


With the included drinks finished, I requested a carafe of the 2018 Zankyo Super 7 Junmai Daiginjo [¥23,000 ($212.90)] from Miyagi's Niizawa Jozoten. It's known for its extremely low seimaibuai of only 7%, ostensibly achieved after polishing Kura no Hana rice for 350 hours so that each grain is less than a millimeter in diameter. If that wasn't enough, the sake's also aged at near-freezing temperatures for a year to develop its flavors. The result of all this was the most memorable sake I've ever tasted. It had an incredibly fragrant nose bursting with sweet, juicy berry fruit, flowers, and a hint of honey. Tasting it, I got a silky smooth palate filled with massive candied honeydew and pineapple flavors that were lush and luxuriant without being cloying or heavy. There was no alcoholic heat at all, no grain character, but just pure, unadulterated fruit--I'd never had anything like it before.

On a related note: as amazing as the Zankyo Super 7 was, the Niizawa brewery has actually made something even crazier. Called the Reikyo Absolute 0, the sake boasts a ridiculous seimaibuai of a mere 0.85%, achieved by milling rice for an absurd 5,297 hours, or over 220 days (the rice for a typical sake is polished less than 12 hours). The sake was produced in a limited run of only 300 bottles, and one was actually available tonight at the restaurant, priced at a staggering ¥850,000 ($7,868.04).


2: Kuruma Prawn, Grilled Tilefish, Yuzu
The evening's owan dish was a whimsical reminder that we were dining on Halloween. I loved the amadai here, which I found immensely savory, salty, and delicious. The crunchy veggies and clear, light broth worked effortlessly for contrast, and I also appreciated the in-your-face sweetness from the shrimp (which was accompanied by what I think was mochi).


3a: Grace of Ocean Delicacy in 2 plates
The Hokkaido horsehair crab was definitely a standout. The crab ate sweet and tender and scrumptious, as you'd expect. However, the crux of the course was the kurozu (black vinegar) jelly that encased the crustacean. It had this wonderfully sharp, tangy, zingy taste to it that really invigorated the hairy crab, and along with the jelly came a bevy of gingery, vegetal, floral, minty, and sour pops that simultaneously lifted the dish. The whole mish-mash of flavors and sensations was something I'd never experienced before. The best kegani I've ever tried, no question.


3b: Grace of Ocean Delicacy in 2 plates
Smoked katsuo was richly-flavored, and its potency was amped up by the application of egg and koji, which added a much-appreciated injection of umami. Chives imparted an offsetting zestiness to it all, and I was a big fan of the overarching flavors of sesame, too. A superlative preparation of bonito, and another favorite of mine.


4: Pacific Saury, Eggplant, Chestnut, Ginkgo nut
It was sanma season, and I enjoyed a delectable presentation of the mackerel pike. A full-flavored fish augmented by the smokiness of eggplant, it was effectively set off by the hearty okara (soy pulp) and piquancy from the umeboshi. I also loved the crunch and salt provided by the hone-senbei (a cracker made from the fried bones of the saury), while the addition of shaved chestnut and ginkgo helped complete the dish's seasonal theme.


5: Abalone, Kuruma Prawn
Tiger prawn was perfectly textured, a marriage of suppleness and snap, and showed off a sweetness that worked hand-in-hand with the dish's viscous, strongly-flavored abalone potage, all while egg and yamaimo(?) modulated the interaction. Adding further interest to the dish were chili threads and the umami bomb that was dried seaweed.


6: Firewood Grilled Sanuki Olive Beef, Japanese Horseradish
I feel like olive wagyu is having a bit of a moment now, so it was nice to see it served at RyuGin. The meat had a smooth, cushiony consistency along with a robust, peppery, almost onion-y flavor profile that actually linked up with the savoriness of those fried leeks(?) layered on top. Also bolstering the Allium-ness of the course was the cup of hot onion soup on the side, which functioned as sort of a palate cleanser, while Chiba peanuts offered up a crunchy complement. I will say, though, that I would've liked a harder sear on the meat.


It was time for the shokuji portion of the dinner, and we were presented with a donabe gohan featuring aki-sake, or autumn salmon (the fish is at its peak around this time of year).




7: Salmon, Ikura, Mitsuba, Japan's National Flower Chrysanthemum Soup, Assorted Pickles
The rice managed to be the best of the trip. The salmon was rich, smoky, and quite possibly the fullest-flavored version of the fish I've tried. It worked beautifully against the bitterness of the mitsuba, and was even better with some of the included wasabi and salmon roe mixed in. Along with the rice came a soup heavy in the umami department, one containing impossibly delicate strands of tofu, as well as a minty, nutty cucumber pickle topped with soy jelly.


Prior to dessert, we were poured a nutty, floral tea that had some delightfully sweet, pineapple-y notes to it.



8a: Melon Cream Soda
Our first dessert featured ice cream made from Kyoto-sourced sugar. I was pretty enamored with it, and could've eaten a whole pint of the stuff just by itself. However, it was outstanding when taken with the zippy bits of melon in the dish, and I also enjoyed the bubbles imparted by the "soda" of Taittinger Nocturne champagne.



8b: Pumpkin, Sweet Potato, Vanilla Caramel
Continuing on with the Halloween theme was this monaka, one that did a remarkable job conveying the autumnal sweetness of pumpkin while also demonstrating a perfect texture from its rice wafers. The best single piece of wagashi I've had.


9: Matcha Tea
The traditional closer of matcha was unabashedly bitter, yet smooth, and not harsh at all, with a hint of fruitiness to boot.


I was given a fancy bag at the end of the meal, not for leftovers (which actually aren't allowed here), but for the menus and bottles of RyuGin-branded water (sourced from Mount Fuji I'm told).

This was a splendid meal. What surprised me the most about Yamamoto's cooking was how little "molecular" influence there was, given that we're talking about a man known for screen-printing squid ink. I think he's probably toned things down as he's gotten older, and that's not necessarily a bad thing. I'm not sure how the techno-cuisine popular in the mid 2000s will be remembered or revered in the future, but what was served tonight did have a much more timeless quality to it. The Chef does a commendable job honoring the spirit of traditional Japanese fare while also keeping an eye on making the cuisine his own, and there was just something to the cooking that makes me think it could indeed transcend the bounds of any one culinary zeitgeist. It took me over 10 years to get here, but it was worth the wait.

Kioicho Mitani (Tokyo, Japan)

November 1, 2019, 12:40 pm

≫ Next: Jeune et Jolie (Carlsbad, CA)

≪ Previous: Nihonryori Ryugin (Tokyo, Japan)

$

0

0

Sushi Kioi-Cho Mitani
Kioi Terrace 3F, 1-2 Kioicho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-0094
03.6256.9566
www.sushi-mitani.jp
Fri 11/01/2019, 12:40p-03:10p





I was able to fit in one last meal in Tokyo before flying out from Haneda, and opted for KioiCho Mitani, situated on the 3rd floor of the Tokyo Garden Terrace Kioicho development. Opened on July 27th, 2016, the restaurant is an offshoot of Yasuhiko Mitsuya's original Sushi Mitani in Yotsuya, which is ridiculously hard to get into from what I've read.

Helming the kitchen here is Chef Hiroyuki Takano, who, curiously enough, mentioned that he just turned 40 back in September. He wanted to be a sushi chef since he was a kid, and apparently got his start at a sushi joint in Gifu. He eventually made his way to Sushi Rosan in Shinjuku, which is where he first met Mitsuya. After Mitsuya opened his own restaurant in 2006, Takano joined him and worked his way up to second-in-command.

As for the menu here, I don't believe there's anything written/printed, but I was charged ¥31,000 ($286.49) for lunch. There was also an additional ¥13,000 ($120.14) for my beverage pairing, which is actually pretty reasonable. Both prices were inclusive of a 10% sales tax.


And speaking of that pairing, it began with a glass of the 2012 Alain Couvreur Champagne Rosé Brut. The wine had a rich, robust nose filled with strawberry, some flowers, and just a trace of toast. The palate showed off more sweet fruit, but also tart, tannic notes, light spice, and an oxidative element. I'd actually never heard of this producer before, but this was a very solid sparkler.


1: Shirako to Uni
The first course comprised pressed and filtered cod soft roe, as well as sea urchin, all set in dashi. Think eggy and saline, with a just a touch of sweetness from the uni, while the uncommonly thick dashi contributed a marked umami component.


Next to drink was the 2011 Domaine A.-F. Gros Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Guettes. The burgundy had a meaty, funky aroma laced with red fruit and light flowers. The palate I found smooth and soft and round, with more red fruit alongside some minerals, spice, and touches of smoke.


2: Yaki Katsuo
According to the Chef, it was prime time for skipjack tuna, and he served it grilled rare. It was definitely a favorite of mine, and perhaps the best version of the fish I've had. I loved the contrasts here in both temperature and texture, especially how the silkiness of the flesh linked up with the bonito's crispy, smoky skin. At the same time, there was this somewhat tannic, grape-y flavor that was unexpected, but not unwelcomed. In fact, I think it made the fish match extra smoothly with the fruity notes in the wine above--a beautiful pairing.


Our first sake was the vaunted Takagi Shuzo Juyondai Cho Tokusen Junmai Daiginjo, which, coincidentally, I was actually considering purchasing the previous night at Ryugin (glad I didn't!). In any case, it smelled amazing, giving up an absolutely huge amount of tropical, sugary pineapple--wow. The palate, meanwhile, was super, super thick, and came loaded with much more of that sweet tropical fruit, accented by just the slightest amount of alcoholic heat. This was delicious, and undoubtedly one of the most fruit-forward sakes I've had.


3: Kegani
Horsehair crab (together with roe I believe) was wonderfully sweet, with just a smidgen of tempering bitterness, and I was particularly enamored with how said sweetness was so effectively amplified by the Juyondai--another superb pairing. I will also note that apparently Takano-san changes the crab utilized in this dish seasonally, as he mentioned that he'd be going with zuwaigani (snow crab) starting later in November.


The second bottle of bubbly we enjoyed was the 2013 Fleury Pere & Fils Champagne Fleur de l'Europe Brut Nature, a 85% Pinot Noir/15% Chardonnay blend that was bottled in July 2014 and disgorged in December 2017. The wine had an intense, fragrant bouquet rife with pineapple cake (think fengli su). Taste-wise, I got lots of rich stone fruit, some pome fruit, and a healthy dose of oxidation, while the finish showcased a lush, lingering sugariness.


4: Age Kamasu
Barracuda featured a delightfully crisp, salty skin that meshed gorgeously with the fish's slightly rare flesh. At the same time, the sliver of deep-fried bachiko (dried sea cucumber ovary) imparted further brine to the fray, while the Champagne above worked to temper its considerable salinity.


Somewhat surprisingly, the next wine in the pairing was a Sauternes, the 2005 Château Coutet. It had aromas that were rubbery, botrytized, but also rife with honey and pineapple. The palate was so, so thick, and tasted of stone fruit and honey, with just a trace of spice and nuts for balance.


5: Negitoro to Fukahire
This was another standout course, and one of the most intriguing preparations of tuna I've had, as well as one of the best bites of this entire trip. What we had was a quenelle of finely chopped tuna, which itself ate super sweet. The crux here, though, was the incorporation of shark's fin, which added a fascinating textural element. The two ingredients melded much more intimately than I was anticipating, and I also loved the toasty crunch from the shari cracker. Meanwhile, the dessert wine really did stand up to the rich, oily, sweet flavors at play here--really, really smart.


The Takagi Shuzo Juyondai Sakemirai Junmai Daiginjo was our second pairing from the cult sake producer, and very different than the one above. Apparently produced using a strain of sakamai developed in-house, it smelled of sweet grain, along with mint and cucumber. The palate was shorter and more austere, thus allowing the savory characteristics of the rice to come through more, though there was still a persistent, fruity sweetness.


6: Tamago Kake Gohan
Tamago kake gohan, a breakfast dish of rice with raw egg and soy sauce, served as the inspiration for this next course, but with the rice replaced by shari and the egg by pressed and filtered salmon roe. The end result was a mish-mash of sweet, sticky rice and the juicy brine of ikura, and interestingly enough, the Juyondai seemed to amplify and spread that sweetness all over the palate.


7: Hamaguri Shiru
We concluded our otsumami portion of the meal with a piping hot cup of hamaguri-enhanced dashi. I was pretty shocked at how sweet the clam was, finding it almost caramel-y in a way, but fortunately this was moderated by the large amounts of brine and umami present in the broth.


The arrival of pickled ginger signaled the start of sushi, and I have to say that Takano-san's gari was particularly spicy.


The 2017 Domaine Patrick Miolane Puligny-Montrachet was meant to go with the lighter nigiri to follow. The white burgundy smelled of peach and peppery spice, with additional notes of tropical fruit, minerals, and mustiness. Its palate was soft and smooth, showing off more distinct spice elements and a tight acidity before transitioning to citrus fruit on the back end.


8: Madai
You might recall that I ate at Kiyota the previous day, and found it unusual that the Chef there placed sushi directly on the counter, foregoing the traditional geta. What may be even more unusual was the fact that Takano-san places his sushi directly in diners' hands, which I'd also never seen before. In any case, he started us off with the red sea bream, a super clean example perfectly accented by the delicate heat of wasabi. What stood out to me most, though, was the rice, which I found very neutral, yet somehow complex, and a great foil to the fish.


9: Ika
Squid arrived thick and sticky, with a firm bite and a subtle sweetness punctuated by robust pricks of wasabi-fueled heat. And again, I found the rice especially crucial here.


10: Shiro Ebi
A relatively uncommon sight, white shrimp were sourced, as expected, from Toyama Bay. They were cool and creamy, demonstrating a palpable sweetness that was matched by the potency of soy sauce.


To pair with the more aggressive tuna cuts below, we were given the 2011 La Pousse d'Or Chambolle-Musigny. The nose here was on the gamy, vegetal side, with a distinct pickle-y element and some spice. Tasting it, I got lots of dusty berry fruit, alongside persistent herbs, light smoke, and a finish that was unusually dry.


11: Maguro Zuke
Marinated tuna was smooth and sticky on the tongue, its savoriness countered by a pervasive wasabi heat that was absolutely key. At the same time, the wine definitely seemed to emphasize the soy sauce here, which I didn't mind.


12: Toro Steak
Unsurprisingly, the tuna belly made for the most luscious bite of the night, its copious amounts of fat taking well to the fish's light sear. Given its heft, the wasabi was critical here, but even more important was the rice, which I especially appreciated. Delish.


Our third sake hailed from Kyoto, the Fujioka Shuzo Sookuu Miyama Nishiki Junmai. The nose on this one was somewhat subdued, displaying mere wisps of melon fruit. In terms of taste, I got classically sweet, ricey flavors along with a persistent tartness and an undercurrent of boozy heat.


13: Kohada
A gleaming cut of gizzard shad was somewhat less saline than usual, and had its sweetness taking center stage.


14: Buri
The autumn yellowtail was among the fattiest examples I've tasted, while I found it unusually cool temperature-wise.


The green tea signaled that we were nearing the end of the meal.


15: Hamaguri
Clam was soft 'n' chewy, and had a pretty remarkable sweetness to it that was duly evened out by the presence of wasabi and rice.


16: Anago
This was easily one of the best preparations of sea eel I've had thanks to its lightly crisp exterior and perfectly-placed hits of salt, contrasted against the fish's hot, creamy interior.


My final beverage was the Nihonsakari Souhana Junmai Ginjo. I found it sweet and ricey on the nose, with a bit of a pickle-y character, while its taste brought more of the same, but with a distinct herbaceousness.


17: Toro Maki
The tuna roll featured chewy cuts of the fatty fish, perked up by a liberal dosing of wasabi.


18: Tamago
The gyoku was on the sweeter side, its inherent egginess very apparent, while texturally I found it pretty light with its multilayered construction.


19: Ume
Dessert duties were handled by a lone Japanese apricot, which had an almost amaretto-like sweetness that I found thoroughly enjoyable.

Kioicho Mitani made for a fitting end to this latest visit to Japan. It was hard to find fault with the sushi, and the various tsumami made an extremely strong showing as well, while Takano-san served as a friendly host and guide. However, I think what I'll remember most about this place is the matching of sake and wine to the food. Not only was it the best pairing I've had with sushi, it was one of the best pairings I've had, period, and if that wasn't enough, I actually felt that it was a really good value to boot. Just a great showing overall.

Jeune et Jolie (Carlsbad, CA)

November 22, 2019, 8:50 pm

≫ Next: Jeong Yuk Jeom (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Kioicho Mitani (Tokyo, Japan)

$

0

0

Jeune & Jolie Restaurant
2659 State St, Carlsbad, CA 92008
760.637.5266
www.jeune-jolie.com
Fri 11/22/2019, 08:50p-12:05a





I didn't expect to be eating in Carlsbad at all this year, but here I was. The venue of choice for dinner was Jeune et Jolie ("young and beautiful"), which came recommended by one of my dining companions. The place opened on December 15th, 2018, and serves casual-but-elegant, French-inflected fare ostensibly inspired by the nouvelle cuisine movement. The owner is one John Resnick, an East Coaster who first moved to San Diego to work in the hotel biz at the Hard Rock and the Pearl. He later transitioned to GM positions at Consortium Holdings' Craft & Commerce and Ironside before striking out on his own in 2016, first with Campfire (also in Carlsbad), and then with Jeune et Jolie here. Running the kitchen at both of Resnick's properties is Executive Chef Andrew Bachelier.

About the Chef: Bachelier was born on April 11th, 1982 to a Mexican-French family. He spent his childhood in Guadalajara and Arizona, and it was during these early years where he first got into food whilst helping grandpa with his live-fire cooking. His family later moved to the San Diego area, and he ended up graduating from Mt. Carmel High School in 2001. Bachelier's formative years in the kitchen were spent at the now-shuttered Blanca in Solana Beach, where he stayed for four years. In 2007, he jumped over to a chef de partie position at Addison at The Grand Del Mar, under William Bradley. His next move came in 2011, when he joined the Italian-focused Urban Kitchen Group, first as exec sous at Cucina Urbana in Banker's Hill.

In September 2013, Bachelier was able to open Cucina Enoteca in Del Mar as CdC, but was out the door by the middle of 2015. He teamed up with Resnick the following February, and the two debuted the live fire-centric Campfire in September 2016, situated in the old Smog Masters/Hassebrock Automotive/Dragmaster auto repair shop in Carlsbad. Named after the middle names of Resnick and Bachelier's daughters (Elsie June and Margot Jolie), Jeune et Jolie was announced in June 2018, and ended up opening six months later. The place was largely well-received, and in November was named one of Esquire's "Best New Restaurants in America" (along with LA's own Bon Temps, Sushi Note, Alta Adams, and Joy).


Jeune et Jolie takes over a building that was previously home to Alliance Jiu-Jitsu, clothier Seams Fashionable, and home furnishing retailer State Street Market Place. Penned by LA-based firm Bells + Whistles (Campfire, Broken Spanish), the space has a sort of American diner-meets-French bistro vibe that was actually quite unexpected. Total capacity for the 2,000 square-foot space is about 90.



Bachelier's French-Cal menu is available in both à la carte and "Carte Blanche" tasting formats, and we opted for the former given our large-ish party size. Drink-wise, things are the charge of Beverage Director Leigh Lacap, another Consortium vet who also oversees things at Campfire. He's got an interesting cocktail list inspired by former French colonies as well as a fairly wide selection of "low intervention" wines, and there's even an absinthe tower to play with. We were charged a corkage fee of $20 in total. Click for larger versions.


Madagascar [$12.00] | peanut butter bourbon, vanilla honey, banane du bresil, lemon, ranovola
We got started with a couple cocktails, and the first was inspired by koba akondro, a confection comprising a batter of peanut, honey, banana, and corn flour, wrapped and cooked in banana leaves. It was a thick, viscous drink, but also delicious. I especially enjoyed the sweet, seamless marriage of banana and peanut butter, and how that was tempered by the use of ranovola, a burnt rice tea.


For our amuse bouche, we were provided a potato-daikon potage with kaffir lime, topped with an Espelette-dusted lemongrass espuma. I think it did a great job showcasing the actual potato, and I also appreciated the soup's lingering sweetness and herbaceousness, cut by a smidge of tartness from the citrus.


Pain et Beurre [$8.00] | baguette, milk bread, normandy butter
We were then provided this serving of bread, which was comped given the long wait we endured before being seated. I started with the Japanese-style brioche milk bun, which ate delightfully soft and sweet, and matched up beautifully with that sea salt-laced beurre de Normandie. The housemade mini baguette, though, might've been even better, thanks to its combination of flaky exterior-creamy interior, delectable butteriness, and subtle smoke. Excellent.


Viêt Nam [$13.00] | blanc vermouth, manzanilla sherry, aveze, lemongrass & bird's eye chili, génépy, lime, pastis, thai basil
A vaguely Vietnamese-y cocktail drank as bright and refreshing as it looked, with sweet-n-sour flavors balanced out by astringent, anise-y notes and a long-lasting pinch of heat. Very neat.


Blue Prawns + Oysters + Mussels [$21.00 + $16.00 + $13.00]
Next came a few selections from the raw bar. Mussels were served with a very citrus-forward, pesto-y condiment as well as a vadouvan aioli, which was unexpected but not unwelcomed. A red wine mignonette came with the oysters (Shigokus?), which I found clean and almost bracing in their brine. My favorite item, though, was the shrimp, which was perfectly textured, with a lovely sweetness that paired swimmingly with the accompanying citrus sauce.


Crevette [$10.00] | blue prawn, kataifi, green curry, thai basil
Blue prawn arrived expertly cooked, its inherent sweetness and salinity perfectly meshing with the crispness of those pastry strands. However, I found the companion curry too heavy-handed, as it tended to overwhelm the shrimp.


Haïti [$13.00] | aged rum, byrrh, pedro ximenez sherry, sweet potato, coconut water, lemon, cinnamon
The inspiration for this cocktail was pen patat, a sweet bread made with cinnamon, evaporated milk, and sweet potato. I was a big fan of the back-and-forth here between the tartness of the drink and its sugary dark fruit flavors, all accented by an overarching floral character. Very nice.


Grenouille [$12.00] | frog legs, fermented chili, tamari
Frog was super juicy, super tender, and had this crispiness (think General Tso's) that I just found really satisfying. There was also this pervasive sweetness in the dish that worked hand-in-hand with the fermented chili notes present. A definite favorite of mine.


Saumon [$10.00] | smoked salmon, buckwheat, fromage blanc, dill
This multilayered construction was another standout, and also just really fun. It basically was like an "everything" bagel with lox and cream cheese, and I mean that in the best way possible.


One of my dining companions brought a bottle of the 2012 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard, which we opened at this point. It had an appealing aroma filled with stone fruit, grass, and a subtly fantastic blue cheese-esque musk. Taste-wise, this was definitely on the spicier side, but also conveyed tempering notes of fruit, caramel, and brown butter, while the finish once again veered spice-heavy and oak-driven. Note that I last tried this wine at The Hobbit back at the start of 2018, and it's matured quite nicely, having become a bit more concentrated I'll say.


Lardon [$14.00] | bacon, persimmon, burrata, pistachio, balsamic
The bacon delivered just the amount of fat, savor, and char you'd want, but fortunately this all was softened by the presence of that lush, cool, creamy burrata, while the persimmon imparted the right amount of sweetness.


Poire [$13.00] | asian pear, radish, parmesan, olive
Next was this somewhat intriguing amalgamation of radish and pear. It leaned toward the sweet side, with the cheese and olive working as moderating elements, but what was most interesting was the sort of onion-y funk present, which was actually the dominant force in the dish for me.


Pomme [$13.00] | apple, celery, black walnut, saint agur blue
Here, I was pretty smitten by the pairing of sweet, crisp, juicy apple with that barnyard-y blue cheese. And even though I'm no fan of celery, the veggie really did work here for contrast.


Escargot [$18.00] | snail, puff pastry, mushroom, brussel sprout, evoo
Escargot is something I pretty much have to order when I see it on a menu, but this dish didn't quite deliver. I just found the snails overly salted, as well as overly bitter from the Brussels. They simply got lost, overshadowed in the dish, though I did appreciate the counterpoint provided by the pastry.


Created in collaboration with Lo-Fi Wines out of Alamos, CA, the Cider Pét-Nat Rosé '18, Shacksbury / Lo-fi, Vergennes, VT [$36] was a cider fermented with Cabernet Franc grape skins. I got a super floral nose brimming with sweet apple notes and light barnyard. The palate was surprisingly dry, bringing forth crisp, refreshing notes of pome fruit punctuated by a tannic tartness.


Poisson Cru [$15.00] | market fish, coconut, coriander, kiwi, daikon, chili
A lean, clean cut of bluefin made sense with its sweet, coconut-y broth, while crunchy shards of radish functioned as an appropriate contrast. Even better though was the touch of heat on the back end.


Agneau [$19.00] | lamb sausage, squid, beluga lentil, truffle, lebneh, turnip
An herby lamb sausage made for a delicious stuffing for the squid, which had just the right amount of salinity. The lentils, meanwhile, worked as a base for the dish, and I was certainly a fan of the texture on those fried legs, too. Another standout.


Morue [$29.00] | black cod, yuzu, miso, bouillon, shitake, seaweed
Cod arrived sweet and buttery, the seaweed and 'shrooms adding further oomph to the dish. The accompanying brown butter bone broth was poured tableside, and was unexpectedly potent, showing off an almost bisque-like richness.


Côte de Boeuf [$32.00] | wagyu beef, sweetbreads, mirepoix, yogurt, streusel
Beef rib was oh-so satisfying in a classically luxurious sort of manner, and was rather tasty just by itself. However, I really did like the added depth and heft provided by the sweetbreads, while the variety of veggies did lighten things up.


Our final wine was the Pinot Noir '17, Domaine De L'Arlot, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru, FR [$99]. The bouquet on this one was on the sumptuous side, giving up loads of flowers alongside rich berry and a trace of earth. The palate was soft and smooth and silky, displaying very apparent dark fruit, with strawberry at the forefront and minerals, spice, and tannins bringing up the rear.


Rutabaga + White Truffle (3 grams) [$24.00 + $45.00] | rutabaga, fungi, pepper, parmesan, gruyere
Rutabaga made for a rough, tough pasta that I wasn't particularly enamored with. It was all a bit too severe for me, though the cheese and mushrooms did help in that regard. The supplemental truffles didn't do much to quell the austerity of the course, either.


Coquille [$32.00] | scallop, sunchoke, abalone mushroom, vin jaune
Scallops had a proper sear on 'em, and featured creamy, pillowy interiors and a healthy amount of caramelization. The included sauce had this sweet, brown butter-like note to it, so I would've appreciated something more to brighten things up.


Poussin [$25.00] | jidori chicken, pumpkin, pepita, risotto
Chicken came out somewhat dry unfortunately, though it was on point in terms of taste. The bird also worked well with the various sweet-nutty elements on the plate, but I wanted more from the advertised risotto, which sort of got lost in the mix. Note that this dish ended up being comped on account of the aforementioned dryness.


Porc [$33.00] | iberico pork, eggplant, artichoke, buttermilk, chermoula
The pork had a spot-on texture and succulence, while flavors skewed citrusy and grassy on account of that chermoula. It was sort of an unconventional sensation, but it worked.


As for dessert, there were but a mere three choices, joined by cheese and an array of sweet wines. Click for a larger version.


Mille Feuille au Chocolat [$14.00] | dark chocolate, peanut praline, caramel
Our first dessert was a thick, dense interpretation of the classic pairing of nuts and chocolate, one that really sang when eaten in concert with that salted vanilla ice cream.


Citron Vacherin [$12.00] | almond, meringue, citrus, anise
Here, a disk of almond cake came crowned with a robust kumquat gelée, while the unmistakable pungency of anise made itself known very quickly.


To go along with dessert, we opened a bottle of 2017 Samuel Adams Utopias that one of my fellow diners had brought. It was a blend of ales (up to 24 years old) brewed with maple syrup, aged in Buffalo Trace bourbon, aquavit, white Carcavelos, ruby port, and Muscat barrels, finished with a touch of oak-fermented Belgian ale. I got a heady nose teeming with notes of dark fruit, chocolate, caramel, and port wine. Tasting it, I found it uncompromisingly intense, with sweet malt, maple, and dried berries all over the place, joined by sharp spice, oak, and a persistent alcoholic heat. I'd wanted to try this beer for at least a decade, and it did not disappoint--there's nothing else out there quite like it.


Given that we ordered so much, we were gifted the evening's dessert from the tasting menu. It comprised a chocolate "cigar," with a wonderfully nutty sesame tuile, a delightfully spicy clove ice cream, and a lingering smoke from the chocolate "ash." Superb.


Miel de Panna Cotta [$13.00] | honey, pear, blackberry
A textbook panna cotta served as an exceptional stage for disparate flavors of honey, ginger, red wine poached pears, and blackberry sorbet to all come together.

Despite a few duds, we had peachy time at Jeune et Jolie. The cooking here demonstrates this sort of bistronomie-type vibe I'd say. You definitely get that French influence in the dishes, although it's twisted and reshaped to match the restaurant's SoCal environment. Bachelier's food is mostly fun, even playful; at the same time though, you do certainly get a sense of the technique and traditional behind it. I never thought I'd be eating this well in Carlsbad, that's for sure.

---

Why Wait? [$12.00] | bourbon, roasted cocoa nib, port, hazelnut praline, black sesame
As I mentioned above, we had to wait a bit before our table was ready, so we headed down the street to Campfire for some cocktails. Our first was a scrumptious, almost syrupy blend of sweet dark fruit, cocoa, and nuts that went down easy. One of my fellow imbibers even likened this to a "boozy Yoo-hoo."


Campfire [$12.00] | bourbon, scotch, roasted malts, demerara, smoke, chocolate
This next cocktail was on the more spirit-forward side, as you can probably tell from the photo, but it wasn't quite as boozy as it looked. With its flavors of caramel, dark fruit, chocolate, and spice, it actually recalled a brownie, but far less sugary of course.


Little Debbie [$12.00] | bourbon, cognac, date, cardamom, oat milk, lemon, nutmeg, mint
With a name like "Little Debbie," I was expecting a cocktail that tasted like a snack cake. This did not, though it did have a hint of chocolatiness to go along with its soft, sweet spice. Again, pretty gluggable.

Jeong Yuk Jeom (Los Angeles, CA)

December 10, 2019, 7:40 pm

≫ Next: Bar Restaurant (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Jeune et Jolie (Carlsbad, CA)

$

0

0

Jeong-yukjeom Korean BBQ
621 S Western Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90005
213.384.2244
www.jeongyukjeom.com
Tue 12/10/2019, 07:40p-10:05p





A friend's birthday dinner brought me to the latest player in LA's high-end KBBQ scene. Named after jeongyukjeom, a term for "butcher shop," the restaurant opened in August 2018 on the first floor of Koreatown's Madang Mall. The place is the brainchild of "Brian" Jae-yong Son and his brother Andy Son, and the duo aren't new to the gogi-gui game, having previously operated outposts of Kang Ho-Dong Baekjeong in Flushing, NY and Palisades Park, NJ (both of which are now closed). General Manager duties here, meanwhile, are handled by Soo-hyun Ahn.


Situated on the site of the original Woo Lae Oak, Madang Courtyard debuted in June 2010, and along with it opened a Korean barbeque spot called Bann. Bann eventually rebranded itself as Madang 621 in early 2012 before shuttering in the summer of 2015. It was quickly replaced by Hansol Noodle, which itself closed near the end of 2017. Jeong Yuk Jeom retains the same basic layout as its predecessors, though its decor has certainly been revamped. The restaurant's oddly-configured lower level features an unusual ramp setup, but is also home to the bar, the seldom-used communal table, and most importantly, a pair of ruby-tinted dry-aging units.


If you make your way up the ramp and past the soju display cases, you'll enter the main dining room, which makes a lot more sense. Note the lack of vent hoods, as all ventilation is handled via downdraft systems built into the grills. This proved pretty effective, as we walked out smelling relatively minimally of meat.



And speaking of those grills, it was nice to see that they made use of actual sootbul (charcoal).


Jeong Yuk Jeom's menu actually lists a fairly wide range of dishes, but our attention was squarely focused on the meat, which includes a number of prime and aged cuts. We ended up ordering one of the "Butcher's Pride" combos, and supplementing with a few additional courses. Beverage-wise, it's your typical soju/beer, along with some harder stuff and a somewhat better-than-normal wine list. Corkage is $25, and we were charged only once. Click for larger versions.



Butcher's Pride "Jeom" for 4 [$165.00] | Brisket, Prime Boneless short rib, Seasoned prime boneless short rib, Marinated prime short rib, Aged prime ribeye
We began with the largest of the three combos for our party of seven. It was composed of chadol, kkotsal, kkotsal jumulleok, yangnyeom galbi, and sugseong kkot deungshim in terms of meat, and also included an array of side dishes, yangpa muchim, gyeran jjim, and your choice of doenjang jjigae or kimchi jjigae.


The standard baechu kimchi was pretty par for the course, though perhaps a touch funkier than usual.


For drinks, we opted for beer this evening, and got things started with the 2018 Modern Times Transit of Venus with Raspberries & Peaches, a red wine barrel-aged grisette with Saccharo, Brett, and Lacto. It smelled fantastic, with aromas of juicy, floral peach and ripe berry. The massive infusion of fruit continued on the palate, where it was joined by earthy undertones and a tinge of acidity. A really great surprise, and no doubt one of the tastiest saisons I've had from the brewery.



As you'd expect, things kicked off with the chadol baegi. I found it a solid rendition of brisket, with a satisfying chew and a pleasant beefiness that made it enjoyable even without a dip into the included condiments.


The pasta was softer than I'd prefer in the macaroni salad, which had a definite sweetness to it on account of all the corn.


Gamja jorim featured firm-but-yielding blocks of potato, in a sweet-savory marinade.




The sugseong kkot deungshim (aged prime rib eye) was one of the tenderest cuts of beef I've had at KBBQ. Flavors were pretty textbook, and though enjoyable, things could've been a bit more robust, a bit more in-your-face in terms of meatiness.


Sukjunamul (mung bean sprouts) were particularly well-seasoned, with a refreshing crispness to boot. One of my favorite banchan for sure.


The kkakdugi ate super crunchy, and a tad sourer than normal I'd say.


Next to imbibe was this blended, bourbon barrel-aged barleywine: the 2018 Modern Times Altar of the Orc Lord Aged in Bourbon Barrels with Coconut, Cocoa Nibs, & Vanilla. The beer smelled great, giving up huge vanilla and cocoa on the nose. The palate was thick for sure, bringing forth more cacao and more vanilla, with coconut appearing in the middle while the finish displayed a hint of oak--it was a bit like Nestle Quik, actually. Delicious, and perhaps my favorite barley wine I've tasted from Modern Times.



Prime boneless short rib was super tender, even more so than the rib eye above. It was also noticeably fattier, oilier, lusher, and fuller-flavored. Remember, kkotsal means "flower meat," and that marbling really does come into play here.


The somewhat uncommon cheong-gyeongchae kimchi was a treat. I was a big fan of the bok choy's refreshing crispness, and how that worked with the alternating sweet 'n' spicy notes present in the side dish.


Condiments included what I believe was a ganjang-based sauce, a rather sweet-ish preparation of gochujang, and good ol' salt, which is what I mostly stuck with.




The yangnyeom galbi (marinated prime short rib) was on point, coming out soft and supple texturally, with a lovely balance of sweet, savory, and char. One of the better ones I've had in recent times.


The requisite salad worked well enough as a respite from all the meat.


Accompanying the salad above was the yangpa muchim, a preparation of zesty, sweet onions.


We then moved on to an imperial stout, the 2018 Modern Times Modem Tones Aged in Jamaican Rum Barrels with Cocoa & Raspberries. I got boatloads of cocoa powder on the nose here, along with richer dark chocolate notes, though not much fruit. Tasting it, there was this almost cough syrup-like berry tartness, commixed with more chocolate and elements of the rum barrel. This was the most polarizing beer of the night, as some of my dining companions found it a bit "off."



The final meat in our combination was the seasoned prime boneless short rib. This was also a strong showing texturally, and developed a particularly nice sear and butteriness that made it stand out from the pack. I will say that this was one of the lesser-marinated versions of kkotsal jumulleok I've encountered, meaning that it emphasized more of the inherent taste of the beef.


Giant beef tartare sushi [$22.00] | Beef tartare with seasoned rice and chestnut
We also sampled Jeong Yuk Jeom's "Instagram famous" presentation of yukhoe chobap, which of course is known for its unusual length (maybe around 20 inches or so). The meat here had a very, very palpable sweetness, along with a welcomed sesame accent, while the rice certainly helped even things out. It was enjoyable enough, but I'd still much prefer a more traditional incarnation of the beef tartar.


Ssam mu worked as a crunchy, sour offset to the meat.


The doenjang jjigae hit the spot, though it was quite a bit spicier than usual, and also had a noticeable brine to it (one of my fellow diners said that it incorporated kkotge, or flower crab).




Aged prime tenderloin [$49.00]
We did supplement our combo with a couple à la carte meats, beginning with the sugseong ansim. No doubt, the filet had a different sort of consistency, a different sort of grain to the meat, one that I quite enjoyed. However, I was looking for more in the flavor department.


The gosu muchim was a refreshing addition for a cilantro lover like myself.


Our gyeran jjim met the mark. I found it an especially succulent example, one with a lovely hit of brine on the back end.


The final beer of the night was the 2015 Side Project Noir Du Fermier, a black saison fermented in and aged in red wine and bourbon barrels, with Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus. The bouquet on this one featured sweet, dark fruit and sour raisin, with a touch of nuttiness underneath. Taste-wise, I got a sour, dry base layered with rustic, earthy notes and more of that tart berry fruit. A fine example of a dark farmhouse ale.




Dry aged prime ribeye [$59.00]
The deurai eijing kkot deungshim was the lone dry-aged entrant of the meal. Texturally, it wasn't quite as pillowy as the rib eye above, though it was still properly tender. In terms of flavor, it did have an almost grassy sort of musk to it indicative of its age, though I wouldn't have minded more of that. It was probably my favorite meat of the group, and was best with just a pinch of salt.


Crisp shards of baek kimchi functioned as a palate cleanser of sorts.


The kimchi jjigae was pretty aggressive due to its sourness and barnyard-y notes, which were more prominent than its heat to me.


Given that this was a birthday, we had to end with a cake, and opted for this Sweet Lady Jane Carrot Cake, a not-too-sweet, mildly spicy version chock-full of walnuts, raisins, and a pecan-caramel filling. The toasted coconut was a nice touch.

Jeong Yuk Jeom worked out swell as a venue for this birthday dinner, and I'm glad to have the place as another option in K-town for those times where I'm seeking a classier sort of KBBQ experience. The meats were solid across the board, and delivered remarkably well in the texture department. They were generally very tasty too, though given that the restaurant ostensibly prides itself on its use of aged cuts, I would've liked to have seen the restaurant go more full bore on that aspect in order to imbue more funk, more richness, more depth to the meat.

Bar Restaurant (Los Angeles, CA)

December 11, 2019, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Gem Dining (Fountain Valley, CA)

≪ Previous: Jeong Yuk Jeom (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Bar Restaurant
4326 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90029
323.347.5557
www.barrestaurant.la
Wed 12/11/2019, 08:15p-11:30p





The straightforwardly-monikered Bar Restaurant in Silver Lake was a spot that had been on my radar for the better part of 2019. Grand-opened in October, the place describes itself as a "neo bistro" inspired by the contemporary Paris dining scene, which basically means it follows the ethos of bistronomy. It's owned by Robert "Jeff" Ellermeyer (Más Malo, Malo, The Echo, El Prado), and in fact, sits in his old Malo space on Sunset. The front-of-the-house is run by GM Pierluc Dallaire (Botanica, Joe Beef), while the kitchen is the charge of LA dining vet Doug Rankin.

About the Chef: Douglas Rankin was born in March 1983, and grew up in the town of Wethersfield, Connecticut. His mother had a background in agriculture, which is part of how he got interested in food. After finishing high school, he ended up relocating to New York, where he learned to cook under none other than Amar Santana. Around 2009, Rankin moved from Manhattan and landed in Orange County. He eventually found a sous chef gig at Saam at The Bazaar, working under Michael Voltaggio. He actually followed Voltaggio to Ink, and opened that place in September 2011 as sous. Rankin then went to work for Chris Cosentino, and opened the pork-focused PIGG at Adam Fleischman's ill-fated UMAMIcatessen in March 2012 (the place shuttered the following November).

Following, he went to cook with Ludovic Lefebvre, and in April 2013, opened Trois Mec as CdC. January 2015 saw him promoted to Director of Culinary Operations for both Trois Mec and Petit Trois next door. However, he was out by the end of the year, having left to do his own thing (he says Ludo was supportive). After briefly considering moving out of SoCal, Rankin wanted to start doing pop-ups, and held his first "Rogue" dinner at Playground 2.0 on January 6th, 2016 (he was already acquainted with owner Jason Quinn, who came into Trois Mec and asked him to cook at 2.0). That event appeared to be successful, and though Rogue was supposed to pop-up more at the old Littlefork space, I don't think that ever happened. Of course Rogue, the permanent spot, also never came to fruition, which is a shame, given that it was intended to shake up the restaurant labor model by utilizing extensive cross-training amongst various positions (e.g. so that a dishwasher could serve as well).

In March 2017, it was revealed that Rankin was teaming up with Beau Laughlin to open something in Los Feliz, right next door to Atrium (another Laughlin project). Just a few months later, in May, he got married to Stephanie Senter, a PR professional who was working with Murphy O'Brien at the time; their son Teague James Rankin was born the following March. Meanwhile, Malo (and Más Malo) closed for good at the end of July 2018. The building was retooled for Bar Restaurant, and re-opened in February the next year, though in a very limited capacity (i.e. drinks/snacks at the bar). Rankin later joined the project after things didn't work out in Los Feliz, and the place opened for real in early October.


As mentioned above, Bar Restaurant takes over the former Malo, which debuted all the way back in 2003. Before that, the address was home to Cal-Mex joint Cobalt Cantina, which opened in 1992, and Larry Nicola's L.A. Nicola, which bowed in 1980 (it expanded to include the adjacent "martini lounge" a few years later). In its current state, the painfully neutral, arty, 1980s-esque space has to be one of the more intriguing dining rooms in LA.


There's also a much more conventional covered patio, which has its own charms.


Rankin's hand-written menu of French-ish fare is pretty tight, which I appreciate. We ordered à la carte, though there is a three-course prix fixe option as well. Libation-wise, you get cocktails, beers, and a wine list managed by Sommelier (and occasional model) Meghan Burton (Quality Branded/Fourth Wall Restaurants, The ONE Group, Megu). Do note that the prices on the menu didn't necessarily reflect the prices that we were charged (the menu definitely needed to be updated, which is a bit concerning); the actual costs are used below. Click for larger versions.


Cosmopolitainne [$18.00]
We drank cocktails this evening, and our first was this take on the ubiquitous cosmopolitan. It was pretty textbook except for the concomitant rose (which was indeed real), with lots of citrus right up front set against some rather sugary flavors from the cranberry-Cointreau combination. Overall I found it a bit trashy, which is just what you'd expect.


Ibérico Paleta [$15.00]
Here were shavings of ham made from the front legs of Iberian pigs. Think creamy and slick on the palate, with a plethora of salty, fatty, and sweet-nutty flavors--delish.


Signature Cocktail [$15.00]
This next cocktail was described as being similar to a gin spritz, and was composed of gin, cucumber, mint, a little soda, and a little prosecco. It tasted as fizzy and refreshing as it sounded, with lots of lime offset by mint and a healthy dose of cucumber on the back end.


Boquerones, Piquillo [$12.00]
Anchovies were delightful, coming out supple and briny, but with a bright, contrasting acidity. They were tasty alone, but even better when eaten with those pickles and piquillos--a winning combination to be sure.


Octopus, yam, pumpkin seed mojo [$19.00]
Octo was perfect texturally, arriving with a crisp exterior hiding soft, supple insides, and delivered in the taste department, too. I absolutely loved the nutty spice that pervaded it, while the yam mousse lent just a smidge of sweetness, and the burnt lemon powder a touch of astringency. It was just a marriage of flavors that satisfied in an almost primal sort of way. A favorite no doubt, and one of the best preparations of octopus I've had all year.


Old Fashion [$16.00]
At this point we ordered a couple classic cocktails, beginning with the most classic of them all. This particular version of the old fashioned utilized Buffalo Trace bourbon, and had a nose filled with citrus-laced caramel. Meanwhile, the taste was as boozy, bitter, and spicy as one would expect, but with a base of counterbalancing brown sugar.


Frisée, crispy potato, egg yolk bonito [$15.00]
The star of the show here was that block of Yukon Gold potato in the middle of the plate, which was apparently frozen for two days before being fried. It had this wonderfully gritty, yet creamy consistency with classic notes of salt and savor, along with a properly crisp exterior. I enjoyed it just by itself, but I made sure to make use of the bright, tangy, champagne vin-dressed greens for contrast, too. A fun take on the frisée salad.


Lamb Tartare Bar Restaurant [$16.00]
The restaurant's namesake tartar came out beautifully seasoned, and had this really great sweetness to it. The meat was on point texturally as well, and matched up like clockwork with the nutty crunch of puffed buckwheat. Even better? That crispy, grainy cracker with its sumac-fueled sourness. Another standout, and probably the best lamb tartar I've ever had.


Manhattan [$16.00]
This take on the Manhattan cocktail incorporated Old Overholt rye. It had an intoxicating nose filled with dark fruit and a trace of bubblegum. Tasting it, I got more rich berry fruit balanced by plenty of booziness and bitter spice. The drink was certainly potent, but had a softness to it as well.


Haricots Verts, sunflower seed hummus, falafel [$21.00]
Crisp, slender green beans played foil to a moist, nutty, well-spiced puck of falafel while hummus served as a natural, seamless pairing.


Mussels, dijon, milk toast & curly fries [$31.00]
Rankin's riff on moules-frites is perhaps the restaurant's most well-known dish, and it's easy to see why. I appreciated the mussels' clean, focused brine, as well as how they came de-shelled, which you just don't see all that often. They were taken up a notch by the dish's rich, heady, Dijon-boosted broth and that absolutely saturated chunk of milk toast in the middle, but clearly the funnest things here were those fries, which were sort of like Jack in the Box's, but just that much better.


Margarita [$13.00]
I'd say that the margarita here what somewhat less citrusy than usual, with more of an upfront, apparent agave character. That's not a bad thing necessarily.


Boudin noir, seeds & sprouts [$14.00]
This smart take on boudin noir transformed the sausage into a sort of paste, one that still demonstrated the unmistakable richness and earthiness inherent in the classic dish, but also with an unexpected, but much appreciated hit of spice on the finish. The traditional pairing of apple offered up crunch and sweetness, but even better was the zestiness of those sprouts.


Chocolate, marshmallow fluff, graham [$13.00]
We ended up ordering all of the desserts, and the first was basically a reimagined version of a s'more. It was actually quite smoky, though the marshmallow did help even things out.


Vieux Carré [$15.00]
The evening's final cocktail was an off-menu selection that I requested. I smelled lots of citrus on the nose, backed by the sweetness of vermouth. The taste was vaguely cough syrup-y due to the combination of boozy, medicinal spice and sugary berry fruit, with the bitters bringing up the rear.


Apple, pain perdu, brie anglaise [$13.00]
This fun take on French toast pit the bright, sweet nature of apple sorbet against the pungent, mushroom-y funk of that creamy cow's milk cheese. A really neat combination, actually.


Pecan, maple cream, caramel [$13.00]
The meshing of caramel and maple made for a sugary dessert, but fortunately the pecans offered up some contrast, and there were these hits of bitterness that really elevated the dish.

I feel confident in saying that Bar Restaurant's one of my favorite openings of the year. The food's definitely rooted in the whole idea of bistronomie, but Rankin makes things much more personal. His cooking has a welcomed point of view, and I like how the clarity and precision and seriousness of the plates is joined by flashes of fun and whimsy. He's not afraid to step outsides the bounds of France, either, so the fare has this sort of Cal-Continental flair to it that works. I'm actually surprised that Bar Restaurant isn't getting more attention. However, things are starting to pick up, as just six days after this dinner, the place was named one of Los Angeles Magazine's "Best New Restaurants."