Holbox (Los Angeles, CA)

April 24, 2018, 6:05 pm

≫ Next: Employees Only (West Hollywood, CA)

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Holbox Restaurant at Mercado la Paloma
3655 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90007
213.986.9972
www.holboxla.com
Tue 04/24/2018, 06:05p-07:15p





After being dismissed from jury duty in Downtown on a recent afternoon, I was getting hungry, and began making my way down to South Central. My destination was the USC-adjacent Mercado La Paloma, as I finally had an opportunity to check out Holbox, a mariscos joint from Chef Gilberto Cetina, Jr.

The story of Holbox has to start with another Gilberto Cetina, the younger Cetina's father. Cetina Sr. came up in Tizimín, Yucatán, not far from Chichen Itza. He learned cooking from his mother (she had a restaurant), and was also trained as a civil engineer. He first came to the US in 1979, but after a couple years, moved back to Mexico. In 1986, Cetina returned, this time staying longer and getting a feel for the culinary scene, but once again went back to Cancún to work as an engineer. He moved here for good in 1997, and in February 2001, opened Chichen Itza as the first food vendor at the then-new Mercado la Paloma. The Yucatán-inspired restaurant was well-received, and in 2006, the team launched another location in Westlake, but that outpost ended up closing in 2009.

Junior, meanwhile, was also born in Yucatán. He was working toward a career in the computer industry, but after Chichen Itza started, decided to join the family business. He cooked and learned alongside his father, and in 2010, took over day-to-day operation of the restaurant. In February 2017, Cetina Jr. opened Holbox, a seafood-centric affair named after an island off the coast of the Yucatán Peninsula. The family used to vacation there during the Chef's teenage years, and his experiences on the isle form the ostensible inspiration for this venture.


The menu takes inspiration from multiple parts of Mexico, offering up a selection of both raw and cooked items that changes (in small ways) daily. Take-out is an option, as is delivery apparently, and there's even a tasting menu (six courses at $55, reservations required) available Thursday through Saturday. As far as drinks go, there's not much to speak of, and alcohol is definitely not served. Click for a larger version.


Upon being seated, I was quickly given a complementary serving of chips, paired with a smoky, earthy salsa.


Kanpachi & Uni Ceviche [$17.00/small] | Baja california Kanpachi, Santa Barbara Uni, tomato, onion, limes, avocado & salsa roja
It just felt proper to begin with a ceviche, and this one was right on the money with its firm, meaty cuts of amberjack matched by a bevy of zesty, acidic flavors and a noticeable heat. The sea urchin was just icing on the cake, adding an enveloping richness to the mix.


Tacos de Pulpo en su Tinta [$12.00] | Braised & fried spanish octopus, calamari ink sofrito in hand made corn tortilla
Octopus legs came out super tender, their subdued flavors enhanced to great effect by the depth and salinity of that tinta-infused sofrito. I appreciated the counterpoint provided by the greenery, while the tortillas were hearty, substantial, and the perfect vessel for consumption. My only quibble was that I would've liked a harder char on the octo.


Aguachile de Callo de Hacha [$15.00] | Baja california half moon scallops in lime-cilantro-serrano marinade with avocado
The aguachile verde was a must try by my estimation, and didn't let me down. Supple, substantial cuts of scallop were joined by a blast of bright, zippy flavors that complemented the shellfish without overwhelming it, and I appreciated the additional lushness imparted by the slivers of avocado in the middle.


To drink: the house lemonade, which was just sour enough, with a sweetness lurking in the background.


Chiles Rellenos de Pescado [$9.00] | Spicy yellow chiles stuffed with fish, breaded and fried, served with home made mayo & morita sauce
Cetina's version of the classic chile relleno delivered big time. I was definitely into the chilies' briny, savory, juicy stuffing, and how that worked as a contrast to their light, crisp exteriors. A morita sauce added a touch of smoke to things, and even better was that tangy housemade mayo.


Almeja Preparada [$14.00/lb] | Giant east coast surf clam "coctel" served in the shell
Firm, springy cuts of surf clam arrived in coctel form, the sweet 'n' sour nature of the ketchup-based sauce making sense with the almeja's natural salinity. Herbs added a welcomed lightness to the dish, and I got a nice heat on the finish, too.


There were a number of homemade condiments available for use, though I really didn't find them necessary.


Pata de Mula / Blood Clams [$16.00] | Sea of Cortez, Baja California blood clams, morita sauce, onion, cilantro, lime juice
We ended with probably the most unique item available, as you rarely see blood clams offered on menus. I loved their sort of multifaceted texture and crunch, while flavors were definitely briny, but with an intriguing astringency and almost "bloody" minerality, all evened out by the application of the clams' various accompaniments.

As expected, I thoroughly enjoyed my time at Holbox. The food was pretty much spot on, and you could certainly taste the quality of the product used, which was a cut above the norm for sure. I think it's safe to say that this is certainly one of the premier mariscos places in the Southland, if not the premier.

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Employees Only (West Hollywood, CA)

May 4, 2018, 8:10 pm

≫ Next: Manuela (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Employees Only LA
7953 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90046
323.536.9045
www.employeesonlyla.com
Fri 05/04/2018, 08:10p-10:15p



Employees Only, the latest import from NYC to land in LA, opened its doors on April 15th. It's certainly one of the most celebrated bars in New York, if not the country, so we were eager to check it out. EO was founded by five principal partners: front man Dushan Zaric, Henry Lafargue, Igor Hadzismajlovic, Jason Kosmas, and Bill Gilroy. Apparently, the guys met each other at Keith McNally's Pravda starting in the late 1990s, where they worked with none other than the legendary Dale DeGroff. Determined to open their own "speakeasy" spot, they launched Employees Only in the West Village in December 2004.

The bar was a success, and resulted in the creation of the group's sophomore effort Macao Trading Company in 2008. Zaric and Kosmas subsequently co-founded spirits producer The 86 Co in 2012. It took a while, but a second outpost of EO finally debuted in June 2016, in Singapore no less. Miami came in February 2017, and Hong Kong in June 2017, with all locations having a different set of partners. This Los Angeles location, meanwhile, is primarily owned by Tom Sopit and Steven Weisburd's Midnight Hospitality Group. Supposedly, there's also an Employees Only in the works in Austin, TX.

Not surprisingly, the cocktail program here is headed by Zaric, who moved to the Southland a few years ago and has made his mark at places such as Hotel Figueroa, Commerson, Ford's Filling Station, and Harlowe. Day-to-day duties are handled by Bar Manager Dee Ann Quinones, who we've seen at the likes of Commerson, Westbound, Booker & Dax, 69 Colebrooke Row, Phillipe Chow, and Susan Feniger's STREET.

The kitchen is run by Executive Chef Sascha Lyon, a 1972 baby who grew up in Hancock Park. He got his first restaurant gig at the age of 14 when he began working at L'Ermitage under Chef Michel Blanchet. This led to a position at Michel Richard's Citrus, which at the time was helmed by none other than CdC Alain Giraud. Lyon then enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America, and, following graduation in 1992, landed a spot on the opening team of Daniel. He stayed with Boulud until 1995, then cooked in London and Miami (Biz Bistro) before returning to NYC. In 1997, he became a sous chef at Keith McNally's SoHo brasserie Balthazar, and in 1999, took on the CdC role at Pastis, another McNally venture.

After leaving in 2004, Lyon started working on his own restaurant, and ended up opening SASCHA in the Meatpacking District in 2006, only to close it the same year. He left New York in 2009 and moved back to LA to become the opening Executive Chef for Delphine at the W Hollywood, an Innovative Dining Group-backed French-Med brasserie concept that opened at the start of 2010. In 2012, IDG tapped him to run the kitchen at Downtown's Soleto Trattoria & Pizza Bar, but he would leave the company by the end of April 2014. From there, Lyon partnered with Raymond Eng and the two opened Commerson in November 2016, but the Chef was out by the following June.

At Employees Only, Lyon is assisted by Sous Chef Rosemary Reyes (a former line cook at Delphine), while front-of-the-house duties are the responsibility of GM Yelena "Lena" Zaric, Dushan's wife.


EO resides at the address that was previously home to Baby Blues BBQ and Caribbean eatery Cha Cha Cha before that. The space has been completely redone, and features lots of light wood in what the team describes as a postmodern, Art Deco-inspired aesthetic. I will say that the vibe is definitely on the rambunctious side: think loud and dark (and getting even darker as the night progressed), with a live DJ no less.


Off to the side is Henry's Room, a semi-private area with its own bar (and own set of cocktails) that's definitely more sedate.


The cocktail list we saw was surprisingly compact, and featured EO classics as well as a number of LA-only concoctions. This is joined by a small array of wines and beers, but nothing too interesting. Food-wise, Lyon's got a selection of fairly classic, European-inspired fare, one that includes dishes off the New York menu as well as the Chef's own creations. Click for larger versions.


Ruby Tuesday [$16.00] | Wild Turkey 101 Rye shaken with Puréed Black Cherries, Benedictine & Fresh Lemon Juice, served on the Rocks
We started with this scarlet-hued number. I found it fruit-forward at first, but with the herbal qualities of the Bénédictine taking over, the experience punctuated by sour lemon. Certainly not bad, but not terribly interesting, either.


Truffle Cheese Fries [$9.00]
Fries were as crisp as I wanted, with a good balance of truffle and cheese. Try 'em with ketchup, too.


Bellini - Traditional Service [$16.00] | Puréed White Peaches served with EO Prosecco & home-made Raspberry-Peach Cordial
The Bellini was as traditional as advertised. I got plenty of intense, aromatic stone fruit, all tempered by the spritzy, every-so-slightly boozy Prosecco. Pretty much the definition of quaffable.


Bone Marrow Poppers [$13.00] | pastry shell, bordelaise
The poppers are a holdover from the New York menu, and worked pretty well, the rich, buttery nature of marrow just making sense with the flaky pastry crust.


Peche Bourbon [$16.00] | Peach-infused Smooth Ambler Contradiction Bourbon stirred with Crème de Peche, sugars, & Peychaud's bitters, served on a large cube of ice
We continued the stone fruit theme with this next cocktail. Its nose showed off creamy, almost candied peach notes alongside a somewhat "nutty" character. The taste, meanwhile, was more austere, with less fruit and more tart, bitter, boozy notes.



Hand Cut Steak Tartare [$20.00] | garlic crostini, mixed greens
The tableside tartar is another NY classic that we felt compelled to sample. The meat was pretty much spot on texturally, and had a great mix of tangy, spicy flavors as well as a touch of almost truffle-like funk. Nice crunch from the included bread, too.


Billionaire Cocktail [$16.00] | Baker's Bourbon shaken with Fresh Lemon Juice, EO home-made Grenadine & finished with EO Absinthe Bitters
Here I got very apparent, but somehow restrained anise on the nose, with stings of lemon. The palate definitely conveyed the fruitiness of grenadine, intermixed with the whiskey, the absinthe becoming a bit less noticeable.


Rillettes of Duck, Rabbit and Pork [$16.00] | hazelnut-apricot conserve
Rillettes were gritty, rustic, with the pork coming through the most. Pretty classic, and well accompanied by that smoky bread on the side.


Rain Dance Cobbler [$16.00] | The Botanist Gin shaken with Rainwater Madeira, Blackberry Syrup & Ruby Port, served over crushed ice with Seasonal Berries & Fresh Herbs
The cobbler was as fun and refreshing as expected. Think fruity for sure, but never cloying, with an oxidative bite from the Madeira.


Formaggi Pizza [$19.00] | fontina cheese, fresh mozzarella, shiitake mushrooms, chili flakes, sesame seeds, parsley
This off-menu special made good use of the restaurant's wood-fired pizza oven. It was properly cheesy, with a great touch of heat and a welcomed woodsiness from the mushrooms that I quite appreciated. Crust-wise, think substantial, with a nice kiss of char and smoke.


The Infinity Cocktail [$16.00] | Suntory Toki Whisky shaken with Mirto di Sardegna, Salers Gentiane Apéritif, EO Grenadine, Aquafaba & Fresh Lemon Juice, garnished with Smoked Black Tea
This next cocktail was one of my favorites. It smelled pleasant, showing off sweet, medicinal, lightly smoky notes. On the palate, I got a soft, multifaceted fruitiness, joined by an almost beer-like element that surprised me. Interesting and easy-drinking.


Pan Roasted Halibut [$34.00] | morels, pea tendrils, english peas, bianco vermouth
Halibut had a pretty much flawless cook on it, and while tasty by itself, really shined when taken with those musky morels and bright, zippy peas.


Manhattan Cocktail [$16.00] | Rittenhouse Straight Rye stirred with Dolin Rouge Vermouth, Grand Marnier & dashes of Angostura Bitters
This Grand Marnier-boosted Manhattan delivered. It wasn't shy about the rye or the bitters, but had enough sweetness for balance, and just a smidge of citrus from the orange liqueur.


Roasted Mushroom Chicken [$26.00] | garlic mashed potatoes, baby spinach, sherry vinegar jus
The chicken didn't disappoint, the bird arriving juicy, supple, and very enjoyable just by itself. Mushrooms functioned as a homey addition, as did the potato, while the spinach imparted a bitterness that just worked.


Hope Monkey [$16.00] | Gin Mare shaken & served up with EO Clarified Lime Cordial & EO Absinthe Bitters
Next was one of the more intriguing gin cocktails I've had in recent times. It was lusher, more full-flavored than I expected, displaying sweet, floral, slightly citrusy qualities along with an astringency and palpable hit of anise toward the back end.



26oz Bone In Rib Eye [$74.00] | gratin dauphinois, bordelaise
The ribeye ate tender for sure, and hit the spot with its generous amount of char and smoke--very tasty. The Bordelaise wasn't necessary, but still appreciated.


Revolution Calling [$16.00] | EO Special Rum Blend mixed with dashes of Branca Menta & topped with Mexican Coca-Cola
Our lone long cocktail of the night came out bubbly and refreshing, with a definite minty, medicinal edge from the Branca.


The steak came with a side of rich, creamy dauphinois potatoes that certainly satisfied.


Mata Hari [$16.00] | Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac shaken with EO Chai Infused Italian Vermouth, Fresh Lemon & Pomegranate Juices
I'm sometimes wary of cognac cocktails, but this one worked it out. The vermouth really did a great job meshing with the brandy, making for a soft, bittersweet drinking experience with a pleasant element of chai.


Crepes Suzette [$12.00]
Time for dessert. Our crêpes Suzette wasn't prepared tableside unfortunately, but still had all the nutty, citrusy, caramel-y flavors that you'd expect.


Vieux Carré 1938 [$20.00] | Walter Bergeron, Hotel Monteleone, New Orleans / Rittenhouse Straight Rye Whiskey, Remy 1738 Cognac, Italian Vermouth, Benedictine D.O.M., dashes of Peychaud, Angostura and Absinthe bitters
We were able to request a cocktail from the Henry's Room menu, hence this Vieux Carré. I actually didn't get much on the nose here, surprisingly. Its taste definitely met the mark though. I found it robust, assertive, with a caramel/toffee character joined by cola notes, dark fruit, and bitter, herbal nuances.


Beignets [$9.00]
Coming out with a traditional sprinkling of powdered sugar, beignets were piping hot, with a soft, chewy consistency.


Café Cabeza [$16.00] | Tequila Cabeza & Italian Espresso, shaken with St. George Nola Coffee Liqueur, Orange Oleo, OM Dark Chocolate & Sea Salt liqueur, served straight up
We ended, fittingly, with a dessert cocktail, one with appealing aromas of roasty coffee and dark fruit. Its flavors were similarly roasty and heavy on the coffee, but also sweet, chocolatey, cozy--nice.


Cheesecake [$10.00]
Last up was the cheesecake. I actually found the cake itself fairly nondescript, though the caramel certainly helped things.

Given all the hype and acclaim surrounding Employees Only, I have to say that the cocktails weren't quite as transcendent as I hoped they'd be. They were certainly enjoyable and properly prepared, but I guess I was just expecting more. As for the food, it's nothing too groundbreaking, but it works, complementing the drinks without drawing too much attention to itself. Overall though, EO's a solid addition to the scene, and I'm glad to have it as another imbibing option around town.

Manuela (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

May 5, 2018, 1:00 pm

≫ Next: Bavel (Los Angeles, CA)

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Manuela Restaurant at Hauser & Wirth
907 E 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
323.849.0480
www.manuela-la.com
Sat 05/05/2018, 01:00p-04:05p





We were recently in search of a brunch spot in Downtown and ended up choosing Manuela, which just happened to have a new Chef in place: Kris Tominaga. The last time we caught up with Tominaga, he was at Mardi in WeHo and running the culinary program for pretty much all of Paligroup. He eventually got tired of the gig though, and ended up leaving the organization earlier this year. As luck would have it, Manuela happened to be in need of a new Chef (Wes Whitsell left back in December), and reached out to him. Given Tominaga's experience in Southern cooking, it was a good fit, and he was quickly installed at the Arts District restaurant and began revamping the menu back in April.


While Whitsell was all about Texas, Tominaga has updated the cooking to reflect a more Lowcountry-meets-California aesthetic (sort of like The Hart and The Hunter), though the brunch menu has thus far experienced relatively minor change. As for the beverage program, it's still got mostly the same sort of feel--not necessarily a bad thing. Click for larger versions.


Cider Car [$15.00] | Three sheets aged rum, le pere jules cider, chai syrup, citrus
Cocktails were definitely called for. Our first showed off a strong citrus component, along with bitter, astringent undertones and just a trace of the rum. Not bad at all, though I would've liked more from the chai.


Siberian kale, avocado, radish, sheep's cheese, lemon, anchovy bread crumbs [$12.00]
The kale salad was one of the new additions on the menu, and a surprise favorite. I particularly enjoyed the saltiness from the anchovy and cheese, and how that worked with the lushness of avocado, the tartness of lemon, and the overall bitter profile of the dish.


Local rock cod ceviche, avocado, radish, ginger, lime, purple sweet potato, benne seeds [$17.00]
Texturally, rock cod was meaty, sturdy, yet still tender, with a relatively mild taste that worked as a base for its various accompaniments. I especially appreciated the ginger and herbs, but I really wanted more acidity overall.


Angeleno Spritz [$15.00] | Grait grappa, passionfruit, kumquat, amaro angeleno, lemon, sparkling wine
Our next cocktail was on the brunch-y side for sure: fruity, fizzy, and refreshing, but with a tempering bitterness in the background. Very apropos for the hot weather we were having that day.


Cream biscuits, honey butter, mixed berry jam [$9.00]
The biscuits were a must try for us. They turned out to be some of the best I've had, coming out all flaky and soft and buttery, delicious alone but even better when taken with that fantastic honey butter.


Chilaquiles, crema, fried egg, pickled jalapeño, avocado, radish [$18.00]
We happened to be dining here on Cinco de Mayo, so we felt compelled to order this Mexican breakfast staple. It was a gratifying, satisfying dish, its base of spicy totopos meshing well with the guac, crema, and fried egg especially.


Vesper [$15.00] | Farmer's gin, crop meyer lemon vodka, lillet blanc
This variation on the Bond-concocted cocktail classic was the booziest of the bunch no doubt. You definitely taste the gin, but it's nicely complemented by the citrus and Lillet, making for a surprisingly easy-drinking beverage.


New potatoes, avocado, tonnato, dill [$12.00]
Potatoes were lovely: hearty and robust on their own, but beautifully paired with the creamy punch of tonnato and a finish of dill.


Crisp polenta, maitake ragu, fried egg, creme fraiche [$18.00]
It's hard to go too wrong with this set of ingredients, and indeed, the dish certainly met the mark, a mélange of gooey, crisp, and cheesy punctuated by the woodsy musk of those mushrooms.


Somerset [$14.00] | Black cow vodka, celery, green apple, mint, lime
Our next cocktail was pretty invigorating, with a citric, herbaceous nose leading to a bright, vegetal palate and slight heat.


Broccolini, pickled garlic, peanuts, smoked chili vinegar [$11.00]
The kitchen then sent out a few of their new dishes. I generally enjoy broccolini, and today was no exception. It came out all crunchy and bitter as expected, but with a delightful spiciness and an additional kick from the garlic.


Arugula, cherries, goat cheese, spiced pecans, walnut oil [$14.00]
The arugula salad was easy and breezy, the zestiness of the greens making sense with a combination of sweet cherry and salty cheese.


Rattlesnake Round Up [$16.00] | Monkey shoulder whiskey, house made pimm's, dates, lemon
This was a fun one, a fruity long drink with a bitter backing and overarching citric tang. I didn't get much from the dates though.


Grilled local yellowtail, snap peas, green garlic, mint, shallot [$31.00]
The yellowtail was another favorite of mine. The fish arrived juicy and briny and loaded with plenty of smoke and char. I enjoyed it just by itself for sure, but the inclusion of all the bright, zippy greenery on top made for the perfect balance.


We of course saved room for dessert. Click for larger versions.


Browned butter chocolate chip cookie, caramelia ice cream, toffee [$10.00]
A Caramelia chocolate ice cream was spot on, and even better with those shards of toffee brittle. Be sure to try it with the cookies.


Cucumber Sour [$15.00] | Hendricks gin, cucumber, parsley, lime, egg white, sugar
Our final cocktail was on the colorful side, and quite tasty too. It showcased lots of sweet, cucumber-y notes and a touch of parsley herbaceousness in a creamy, quaffable package.


Grist & Toll whole grain churritos, dulce de leche [$8.00]
Mini churros were soft, fluffy, and loaded with plenty of sweet spice, all while the caramel-y sauce on the side served as an apt condiment.


Meringue, verjus rouge sorbet, berries, yogurt [$11.00]
Airy meringues were joined by an almost bracingly tart verjus sorbet and juicy berries, making for a light, refreshing dessert that fit the bill.

I'm actually not a huge fan of brunch typically (unlike everyone else in LA, seemingly), but this was a pretty convincing meal. Unfortunately we didn't really get to experience the full extent of Tominaga's remodel of the menu, but what we did manage to try certainly worked, and got us all a bit more interested in returning for dinner.

Bavel (Los Angeles, CA)

May 9, 2018, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Patina (Los Angeles, CA) [5]

≪ Previous: Manuela (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Bavel Restaurant
500 Mateo St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.232.4966
www.baveldtla.com
Wed 05/09/2018, 08:00p-11:30p





LA is in the midst of a Middle Eastern cuisine renaissance, and we recently welcomed what's easily the most hotly anticipated restaurant in that sphere. After being in the works since at least 2013, Bavel (accent on the second syllable) finally opened its doors on April 20th. The Arts District eatery is the work of Chefs Ori Menashe (roots in Israel, Morocco, Turkey, and Georgia), and Genevieve Gergis, whose father is Egyptian. The place is named after the Hebrew word for Babylon, and features cooking inspired by the entire Mideast region, interpreted through a SoCal lens and executed with an eye toward the Chefs' classical training and technique.



Bavel resides in a warehouse previously occupied by Evergreen Fresh Farms. It's been redone by local firm Studio Unltd (189 by Dominique Ansel, Chianina, Moruno, Otium, The Rose Cafe, Petty Cash #2, BierBeisl Imbiss, Catch & Release, Bestia, Messhall, BierBeisl), with significant input from Gergis. It's not your typical Middle Eastern affair, but still reflects the regional influence of the cuisine, in modern form of course. Note that there's also a patio out front, but it wasn't yet furnished on the night we dined.


Bavel's Mideast-meets-LA menu comprises mostly smaller dishes meant for sharing, as per tradition, but there are certainly larger format items available, as well as an array of Gergis' desserts. To drink, you get ten theme-appropriate cocktails, a few unexpected beers, and an interesting wine list focused mostly on the Old World. Click for larger versions.


Davi [$15.00] | Sour Punch - japanese whiskey, jamaican rum, lots of tea, lemon, crushed ice
We arrived early for our reservation and thus enjoyed a couple cocktails at the bar while waiting. This punch-inspired concoction was to our liking, really showing off the smoky, astringent, aromatic nature of the tea, layered over a base of spicy rum and whisky.


Nebuchadnezzar [$16.00] | Old Fashioned - lamb fat bourbon, blue plum brandy, smoked ice, grapefruit
Our second cocktail actually had a surprisingly subdued nose, with fresh notes of citrus dominating. The taste, however, was much, much bolder. I got tons of caramel and toffee, along with dark fruit, booze, smoke, and the pervasive, but never overwhelming essence of lamb.


Baba Ghanoush [$11.00] | smoked eggplant, burnt bell pepper, red walnuts, lemon chili salt, fried pita
The meal proper commenced with an order of baba ghanoush. I found it subtly smoky, but also sweet-ish, and I was a big fan of the nutty, peppers flavors contributed by the dish's various toppings. Not to be outdone was the paired pita, which was light, fluffy, and almost donut-y in consistency, with a slight sweetness and salty/spicy edge. A promising start.


Scallop Crudo [$18.00] | pomegranate molasses, citrus, burnt serrano chile oil, charred cucumber, mint, black sesame
This next dish came highly touted by our server, and he was right on the money. Scallops were almost creamy to the bite, and had their soft, saline flavors complemented by the fruitiness of pomegranate and, more importantly, a wonderfully sharp, growing heat that made for a pleasant surprise. Excellent herby finishing note as well.


Darrah [$15.00] | Cooler - blanco tequila, orgeat, grapefruit, lime, cucumber, crushed ice
In terms of going down easy, this cocktail definitely delivered with its bevy of bright, floral, fruity flavors, set against just a bit of nutty, vegetal nuance.


Foie Gras Halva [$19.00] | creamy pâté, date paste, black sesame, buckwheat loaf
Menashe reworked the traditional Mideast confection of halva into a smooth, nutty paste imbued with the refined earthiness of foie gras and punctuated by the sweetness of date. And the buckwheat bread? Delightfully smoky, nutty, superb, delicious.


Middle Eastern Cured Meats [$24.00] | chef's selection
Next came a foursome of house-cured, house-aged meats. Clockwise from right:

• There was a lot that went into this two-year-old prosciutto, which was actually started at Bestia. It was cured in turmeric salt for 35 days, rinsed, then aged for six months. Following, pig stomach lining was whipped with orange blossom oil, black pepper, turmeric, and rice flour, then spread over the leg, which was aged another year-and-a-half. The end result was pretty sublime. Texturally, it was super melt-in-your-mouth, rich, creamy, fatty, but even more notable was the taste, which meshed your typical porkiness with a beautifully floral character from the orange blossom, making for a familiar, yet pleasantly surprising experience.
• Salami was enriched with harissa, but this particular harissa was made with bell pepper, giving it a much sweeter flavor profile than you'd expect.
• Turkish style pastirma was coated with paprika, fenugreek, cumin, allspice, chilies, garlic, and lots olive oil, then air-dried in a more-humid-than-usual environment. This made for a lusher texture, while flavors were spicy and slightly astringent, with a great floral, herbal element on the back end.
• Last up was the sujuk, a sort of beef salami with chili flakes, sumac, allspice, black pepper, and lots of garlic, which Menashe injected with olive oil for hydration purposes. I found this one richly flavored, with a robust savoriness and long lasting spice on the finish.

Saffron [$6.00] | pink lemonade with pomegranate & cinnamon / sparkling
Here was our sole non-alcoholic cocktail of the night, a refreshing, ruby-hued number named after the Chefs' daughter.


Duck 'Nduja Hummus [$13.00] | creamy garbanzo beans, Jerusalem mix spice, herbs, pita
We were given a sample of the hummus, which is based on a recipe that Menashe had apparently been working on for three years. His effort showed, as it was arguably the best I've had. Texturally, I found it super silky, yet still substantial, with the chickpea well-conveyed, but also perfectly matched with the fire and funk of 'nduja. Also of note here was the pita. Compared to your usual flat, dense versions, Bavel's olive oil-enhanced preparation was soft, fluffy, airy, and absolutely top-notch.


Chicken Liver [$16.00] | merguez spice, caramelized onions, sour sumac onions, dill
Our choice of flatbread featured the earthy intensity of chicken liver, which went seamlessly with the considerable spice in the dish, while the finish showed off zesty notes of dill. As for the bread itself, I found it mostly supple, but with just enough crispness and bite to it.


Zahra [$14.00] | Sour Rocks - coconut bourbon, dry V, gerwurtz syrup, lychee, alliums, crushed ice
This cocktail showcased a floral, fruity bouquet, while its palate was rife with lychee, light coconut, and nary any trace of booze. Easy drinking for sure.


Roasted Cauliflower [$16.00] | hawaij chile sauce, créme fraîche serrano dip, pistachios, dried flowers
Hawaij-spiked cauliflower was a winner, displaying a creeping, curry-like spice and heat that really called for a dab of that the cool, floral (marigold, rose, orange blossom) dip.


Grilled Octopus [$21.00] | herbed yogurt, fried squid ink pita, capers, smoked paprika oil, turmeric pickled onions
Bestia's known for having some of the best octopus in town, so we had to give it a go here as well. It came out as tender as expected, and teeming with proper amounts of char and smoke. I enjoyed it alone, but the back-and-forth between the paprika oil and yogurt wonder wonders, too.


Arioch [$16.00] | Manhattan - japanese whiskey, amaro, sherry, black walnut
This variation on the classic Manhattan cocktail certainly worked for me. I got aromas of dark fruit and light amaro. The taste brought more of that fruit, joined by boozy heat, some nutty character, flowers, and my favorite part: the oxidative quality of that sherry.


Grilled Oyster Mushrooms [$16.00] | stinging nettle cardamom puree, turmeric, sumac
This dish was our server's favorite, and once again, he was spot on. I loved the huge amounts of char and sear going on here, and how that worked with the super savory, meaty 'shrooms, the nettle purée imparting a welcomed brightness to the mix. More than any other, this showed off the marvelously smoky potency of the grill.


Grilled Prawns [$24.00] | harissa marinade, eggplant tzatziki, herbs, lime
Cooked-just-enough prawns had their brine matched by a sweet, smoky, multifaceted spice. Tzatziki made for a cool, creamy counterpoint, and the herbs were a great finishing touch as well.


Marius [$16.00] | Daisy - mezcal, amaro, apricot, lime, mole, gumdrop, pistachio
Here we had a delectable marriage of stone fruit and an almost honeyed sort of sweetness, balanced by a noticeable bitterness and the booziness of mezcal underneath.



Slow Roasted Lamb Neck Shawarma [$38.00] | créme fraîche tahini, fermented cabbage, pickled turnips, laffa
I had lamb neck on my last visit to Bestia, so I suppose it's appropriate to end with it tonight as well. The restaurant actually forgot to charge us for the dish, likely because we switched it out at the last second when we heard that there was only one order left (we'd initially gone with the wagyu tagine). In any case, the reworked shawarma is apparently Menashe's favorite dish, and with good reason. The slow-cooked meat arrived falling-apart tender, with pronounced flavors and just the right amount of seasoning. It's delicious just by itself, but you really have to take it all in with the tahini and pickles and lafa and amba--the overall effect is pretty magical, a perfect mix of meat, spice, acid, and crunch.


Frozen Medley [$11.00] | frozen yogurt, strawberry & bitter orange blossom sorbet, meyer lemon saffron sherbet, served with saffron pirouettes
Time for some of Gergis' desserts. The sorbet was particularly sharp, acerbic almost, while the frozen yogurt ate sweet, with a definite lactic tang. Perhaps the most interesting of the three was the sherbet, which really highlighted the grassiness of saffron. Rounding this out were marigold flowers and cookies, which add some textural contrast.


Omaira [$14.00] | Sour Up - pisco, pear liqueur, grenadine, lime, pink peppercorn
The night's final cocktail was a riff on the classic pisco sour, and a rather fun one at that. It drank fruity for sure, with a nearly punch-like sweetness, but fortunately this was joined by a countering bitterness and lingering notes of spice and pepper.


Cardamom Apple Prune Cake [$12.00] | date toffee sauce, cream
Our next dessert resembled a sticky toffee pudding with its rich, dark fruit flavors and caramel-y sauce, but the dish's anise-slash-herbaceous notes and crème fraîche whipped cream imparted a welcomed lightness.


Licorice Root Ice Cream Bonbon [$10.00] | sour licorice caramel, muscovado cake, caramelized white chocolate, maldon
We ended with the most interesting of the desserts, and my favorite of the bunch thanks to its sweet, spicy, almost bracing licorice flavors. I also got complementary nutty and dark fruit notes, and just a pinch of saltiness from the Maldon.

My dining companions and I left Bavel thoroughly impressed, even given the considerable hype and anticipation surrounding the place. The food I think does a great job communicating the essence of Mideast cuisine, and was impeccably executed, while the kitchen's nontraditional touches, techniques, and hints of modernity really make it special. Given how successful Bestia was, and is, Bavel's got a lot to live up to. Based on this experience, it looks to me like the restaurant's not only met expectations, but exceeded them.

Patina (Los Angeles, CA) [5]

May 17, 2018, 8:00 pm

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Patina Restaurant at Walt Disney Concert Hall
141 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.972.3331
www.patinarestaurant.com
Thu 05/17/2018, 08:00p-12:00a





We recently paid a visit to Patina, Downtown's longstanding temple of fine dining. It's almost become a tradition of ours to dine at the restaurant each time there's a changing of the guard in the kitchen, and the latest top toque is Executive Chef Andreas Roller, who took over in early 2017.

About the Chef: Roller was born and raised in Germany's Black Forest, the son of restaurant professionals (dad in the BOH and mom in the front). He began working in kitchens during his teenage years, and even apprenticed at Harald Wohlfahrt's highly-lauded, Michelin three-star Schwarzwaldstube, located inside Hotel Traube Tonbach. He relocated to the Southland in 2000 at age 23, and landed a sous chef position at the original Patina on Melrose (now the home of Providence), which at the time was helmed by none other than Walter Manzke. Following, Roller did some traveling (cooking for Formula 1 and at the Burj Al Arab, among other places), then returned to PRG in 2007. From 2011 to 2012, he was Exec Chef at Kendall's Brasserie, then took the reins at Nick & Stef's Steakhouse before replacing Paul Lee here at Patina (Lee had apparently moved back to Asia to open his own spot).

The FOH is the duty of GM/Water Sommelier Jerk Martin Riese. A fellow German, he came up in the northernmost part of the country, and started out as an apprentice at Hotel Stadt in Hamburg. Following, he worked with Josef and Anton Viehhauser at Viehhauser im Hafen-Klub, and in 2001, did a stint at Eckart Witzigmann's Ca's Puers in Majorca. He made his way to SoCal in 2002, joined PRG, and worked at the original Patina, Patina Catering at the Hollywood Bowl, and Nick & Stef's in Washington. Riese then returned home, spent some time at Alter Meierhof in Glücksburg, and landed a position at First Floor at Hotel Palace Berlin in August 2005 (where he would meet his wife). He stayed for six years, during which time he was promoted to maître d'hôtel, received his water somm certification, and co-wrote Die Welt des Wassers. In September 2011, he returned to PRG and joined Ray's and Stark Bar. Riese transferred to Patina in 2015, becoming GM in December 2016.


Inside, things really haven't changed much since my first visit 11 years ago, but they don't need to. It's a comfortable, civilized space.


Patina's menu can be described as globally-inspired contemporary French, and comes in three formats: three ($105), seven ($150), or ten ($200, off-menu) courses. To drink, there's a small array of cocktails, a few beers, and of course the restaurant's (in)famous water list, which features more than two dozen options. The main draw, though, should be the wine list (not pictured, because it's huge), which is no doubt one of the most serious in town, with a particular strength in its Californian and French selections. Corkage is a not-too-bad $30, and was waived tonight (as we did purchase two bottles after all). Click for larger versions.


Wine-wise, it just felt right to begin with some Champagne. The Jules Lassalle, Brut Premier Cru, Blanc de Blancs, Chigny-les-Roses, 2004 [$155] showed off appealing aromas of toast, lemon, and juicy apple. The palate was crisp, vivacious, yet still mature, with an oxidative bent and more of that delectable fruit character alongside citrus and yeast. A superb start.


Amuse bouche duties were handled by corn trumpets stuffed with smoked salmon, avocado mousse, and lemon crème fraîche. I definitely got a smokiness and salinity here, but those notes were evened out by those crispy cones and the bite's creamy, tangy flavors.


Our friendly bread server provided four varieties tonight: a lemon-y, pound cake-y brioche; a spicy, nutty Patina rye; a soft, fruity fig; and a prototypical seven grain. Butter, meanwhile, was as soft and sweet as I wanted, and came from Kansas City apparently.


1: Blue Fin Tuna & Kagoshima Hamachi | Sudachi, Pomelo, Thai Basil
A duo of crudo was marinated in sudachi, then served with avocado mousse, Thai basil, Japanese peach, oroblanco, tangerine, and radish. It was pretty great, the dense, meaty cuts of fish conveying a fattiness, savoriness, and brine that matched beautifully with the bitter notes in the dish. I got some excellent finishing accents from the celery and minty basil, too.


2: Hokkaido Scallop | Cucumber, Lime, Aguachile
A supple medallion of scallop had its ocean-y flavors matched by the acidity of an aguachile-inspired broth while lime and cucumber provided further contrast. Also appreciated was the course's lingering, herbaceous finish. However, I would've liked some heat here, since the traditional dish is rather spicy after all.


Our next wine was a Chardonnay that one of my dining companions brought, the Kistler, Vine Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 2015. This was lovely as well, smelling strongly of vibrant fruit, but with a somewhat musty backing. Taste-wise, I found it rather hardy, with an oakiness giving way to herbs and more tropical-ish fruit on the back end.


3: White Asparagus from Loire Valley | Spring Pea, Morel, Farm Egg
Asparagus arrived stout and sturdy, its juicy, bittersweet flavors perfectly matched by a combination of woodsy morels, bright peas, and lush poached egg, the whole thing bound together by a rich brown butter sabayon. Furthermore, said sabayon was really amplified when we had the dish with a sip of the Kistler above. A table favorite.


4: Spring Pea Agnolotti | Ricotta Salata, Weiser Carrot, Cipollini
The agnolotti was another standout for me. I loved the sheer butteriness of the dish at the start, but this transitioned seamlessly to the robust, refreshing flavors of pea purée. I was a fan of the ricotta here as well, as it imparted a sharp saltiness to the mix.


5: Hudson Valley Foie Gras | Pineapple, Coconut, Macadamia
Seared foie gras was just what we expected: silky and melt-in-your-mouth, with a rich, earthy taste that demonstrated both potency and restraint. A combo of grilled pineapple, coconut foam, and pineapple-mango salsa provided your requisite fruity notes, but more interesting was the dish's mole-inspired sauce, which offered up a nuttiness that I quite enjoyed. A bit of a multicultural mash-up, but it worked.


6: Sea Bream | Manila Clam, Parsley, Chorizo
Pan-roasted sea bream was very tasty, with a delightfully crisp skin to boot. Clams kicked up the brine factor in the dish while chorizo imparted saltiness and spice, and overall the flavors meshed together quite well. Garnishes, meanwhile, included deep fried leeks, a Vichyssoise(?) purée, and a watercress purée. In addition, I will say that course seemed to draw out the minty qualities of the wine below.


The evening's final wine was another winner, hailing from the Northern Rhône: "Chateau D'Ampuis," E. Guigal, 1996 [$195]. Vigorous nose showcasing meat and mint alongside berry fruit. The palate was similarly powerful, with notes of pepper, leather, bramble, and olive coming together in wonderful harmony. Some may say that this wine is past its prime, but we all agreed that it's drinking very well now. Note that we chose not to decant.


7: Snake River Farms Wagyu Beef | Oxtail, Tsukemono, Wasabi Jus
Our final savory had grilled sirloin and braised tail accompanied by Japanese pickles, spinach purée, and a potato mousse with Parmesan dough. The wagyu was assertively flavored for sure, while the oxtail was as dark and decadent as one would expect. Fortunately, the pickles managed to provide balance to the dish, and we were all rather smitten by the potatoes, too.



8: Artisanal Cheese Selection | Traditional Condiments
A chariot de fromages (cheese cart) is a rare sight these days, so we were happy to see it offered this evening. We were given six selections (dealer's choice), accompanied by quince paste, fig preserves, and chestnut honey, all from Spain, as well as French mostarda with Dijon mustard. Clock-wise from right, we had:

• Époisses - Think rich and runny, with unabashedly salty, pungent flavors and a sweetness underneath--all things that make this one of my favorite cheeses ever.
• Fourme d'Ambert - I found this relatively subdued for a blue. It didn't possess the sharp, salty nuances you might expect, though it did have a funk that crept up on me.
• Etorki - A sheep's milk varietal from the French Basque region, this was a somewhat "sticky" cheese with a mild, slightly sweet taste.
• O'Banon - A goat cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves and washed with Woodford Reserve, from producer Capriole in Indiana (based on the traditional French Banon, which is rinsed with eau de vie). Dry and dense texturally, this had a light, tannic flavor profile with traces of citrus and herb.
• Beemster Classic - Aged for 18 months, this gouda-like cheese from the Netherlands displayed a firm consistency with some crunchy crystallization. Taste-wise, I got salty, caramel-y notes with a bit of nutty brown butter.
• Brie - Soft and luscious and oh-so creamy, just as expected, with flavors that were milky and mildly mushroom-y.

An intermezzo course comprised a small quenelle of bergamot sorbet. Intensely floral to the smell, it was bitter and sour and bracing, and thus quite effective as a palate cleanser.


9: Ivory Chocolate | Hazelnut, Red Currant, Mint
Our first proper dessert featured a white chocolate mousse drizzled with passion fruit coulis and accompanied by caramelized hazelnuts and banana. I got a fruitiness here that sort of formed the main thrust of the dish. The nuts worked as a crunchy counterpoint, and the hint of mint on the close made sense as well.


10: Dark Chocolate | Ginger, Citrus, Elderflower
Here we had a chocolate cake that was like a cross between a soufflé and a moelleux au chocolat. Its flavors were on the heavier side, so the citrus, St-Germain-infused whipped cream, and zesty ginger ice cream were absolutely crucial for balance.


We ended with a collection of petits fours. The macarons were quite nicely textured, and I was able to sample one flavored with what I believe was tea, while another combined chocolate, orange, and perhaps ginger. Miniature fruit tarts hit the mark with their mix of creamy and fruity elements, all contained in a buttery crust. Last up were bonbons in two varieties: salted caramel and cookie crunch.

Roller is just the latest in a long line of chefs at the helm of Patina, and looks to be doing a good job so far of steering the ship at this storied restaurant. There's definitely an old school fine dining sort of vibe to the place, which is part of the appeal for me, yet the cooking's seemingly both contemporary and familiar at the same time. Patina's pretty much achieved grande dame status by this point, and is far from the talk of the town, but I really do hope that it sticks around for a long while.

PBJ.LA (Los Angeles, CA)

June 9, 2018, 2:20 pm

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PBJ.LA at Grand Central Market
317 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.624.2378
www.pbj.la
Sat 06/09/2018, 02:20p-04:05p





One of the stranger places to debut in recent times has got to be PBJ.LA, a sort of new wave peanut butter and jelly purveyor. The 12-seat stall opened at GCM last August, sandwiched between Ana Maria and Chiles Secos. It's the brainchild of Payvand Salehi, Brad Greenberg, and personal trainer Jimmy Franklin, and the three actually came up with the idea while working out together at Jackie Warner's now-defunct Sky Sport and Spa in Beverly Hills. Greenberg's friend Jeff Miller (of Thrillist fame, and also an investor) introduced them to Lee Weinberg and Adam Fleischman (i.e. AdVantage Restaurant Partners), both of whom also worked out at the same gym. The two liked the idea and joined on to further develop the concept, later facilitating a successful meeting with the GCM folks, and so here we are today. Fun fact: the first names of the five main partners spell out PBJ.LA.


PBJ.LA's menu features seven variations on the classic sandwich, all of which are "100% plant-based" (sounds better than vegan I suppose). This is joined by a couple sides and a few nut milk-based beverages. Click for a larger version.


Old School [$5.00] | Peanut Butter with Strawberry Jam orand Marshmallow Fluff
We had to start with the most basic of the sandwiches, and as we can see, it's essentially a schmancy Uncrustable. Taste-wise, the peanut butter was pretty much what you'd expect, with a slightly grainy consistency that I didn't mind. Meanwhile, the tanginess of strawberry came through more on the back end, while the marshmallow added a noticeable gooeyness to the mix. Not a bad rendition of the childhood staple.


Kicking things off beverage-wise was a red wine barrel-aged saison with second-use fruit, the 2017 Modern Times One Million Tomorrows with Nectarines. Strong stone fruit on the nose, with a tartness and Brett character as well. The taste was sour and acidic at first, but quickly showcased more juicy nectarine, funk, and a grassiness, while the finish had a slightly off-putting bitterness.


Red Eye [$6.50] | Espresso Peanut Butter (Jaguar Forest Organic Coffee), Dark Chocolate Raspberry Jam
This next sandwich definitely showed off the roasty bitterness of coffee, while I believe the beans also contributed a grittiness to the otherwise sticky nut butter. Meanwhile, the chocolate and raspberry became more noticeable on the back end, making for some balance.


An Horchata Almond Milk [$5] drank nutty and sweet, as one would expect, but also had a very apparent floral note that lingered. Pretty tasty, though it didn't particularly recall its namesake horchata, and lacked the cinnamon-fueled sweet spice I was expecting. Maybe they gave me the wrong bottle...


Orange Salad [$13.00] | falafel with carrots, spinach, pickled hot peppers, walnut-yogurt & dill
A couple of my dining companions ending up going to Madcapra in order to mix in some lighter fare. Our first salad was tasty enough, and quite heavy on the dill, which was fine by me. I didn't have much to complain about concerning the actual falafel either, though unfortunately the combination of carrot and bell pepper seemed to overwhelm most of the other flavors in the bowl.


Given what we were eating, it just seemed right to bust out a bottle of the 2018 The Bruery PB & Jelly Thursday, an imperial stout aged in bourbon barrels with peanut flour, boysenberries, and salt. The beer smelled heavily of dark fruit, with a booziness underneath. The taste brought oak, chocolate, bourbon, and more of that boysenberry, though regrettably little peanut, while the finish was a bit on the hot side.


Indian [$7.50] | Curried Cashew Butter, Spicy Mango Chutney, Arugula, Sliced Daikon Radish
This Indian-ish creation had tons of curry upfront, which led to a mango-y sweetness and more lingering curry on the close. What I found problematic here was that the cashew butter was very, very thick, distractingly so.


Next was another PB&J beer, the 2018 The Bruery Out of the Lunchbox, an ale brewed with lactose, peanut flour, boysenberries, and salt. The nose here was decidedly sweet, with light peanut and a touch of chocolate. On the palate I found the beer malt-forward and surprisingly tart, with a touch of the purported peanut but nary any trace of boysenberry.


Ol' Fashioned [$7.00] | Salted Pecan Butter, Apple Jam with Angostura Bitters, Orange Zest
Inspired by an Old Fashioned cocktail, this was probably the most interesting sandwich we tried. Think citrusy and sweet-n-sour at first, while the Angostura came in on the mid-palate, commingled with the pecan butter.


Going in a lighter direction now, the 2016 Beachwood Blendery Propagation Series: No. 2.6e5 was a saison aged in oak with Brett and herbes de Provence. Aromas were subtle barnyard and stone fruit, with a trace of what I thought was lavender. The taste was a touch more assertive regarding the herbes, and also displayed more fruit along with a marked bitterness that persisted.


Green Salad [$13.00] | falafel with cauliflower, pickled fennel, labneh, cilantro & mint
The second salad from Madcapra was more to my liking. I really appreciated the sheer brightness of the dish and how that worked alongside the robust flavors of the falafel. Nice crunch and tang from that pickled fennel, too.


Created in collaboration with Fair State Brewing Cooperative out of Minneapolis, the 2018 Modern Times Elf Quarters was a witbier brewed with Brett and Lacto, then conditioned with kumquats. Appealing nose filled with tart, juicy fruit. The palate conveyed delectable notes of kumquat and stone fruit along with some funky, Bretty elements, while the finish was loaded with the essence of bitter citrus pith.


Italian [$9.00] | Toasted Pine Nut Butter with Sage, Basil Cherry Tomato Jam, Arugula, EVOO, Balsamic, Smoked Provolone
This Italian-esque sandwich, which we got toasted, was clearly our least favorite of the bunch. The most prominent component here was the arugula, but other than that, we basically got a muddled sweetness that just struck us as odd.


Our final bottle was the 2018 Bottle Logic Jam the Radar, a blend of imperial stouts aged eight to 18 months in bourbon barrels, finished with cacao nibs and both black and red raspberries. Unsurprisingly, it smelled strongly of chocolate and dark fruit, with an oakiness mixed in. The taste brought massive amounts of raspberry commingled with more rich chocolate, making for a proper dessert beer indeed.


Chocolate Haze [$8.00] | Chocolate Hazelnut Butter, Dark Cherry Chianti Jam
We wanted to end with the most dessert-y sandwich on offer, and this certainly fit the bill thanks to its Nutella-like sweetness and healthy amounts of full-bodied berry.

I have to say that I don't particularly enjoy PB&Js in general, and this meal didn't change my mind on the matter (not that I expected it to). That being said, if you're a fan of the sandwich, this might be right up your alley. Actually, from what I've read, the concept has been more successful than I would've thought, and I'm curious if the partners are planning on expanding to more locations; it seems like something they'd be wont to do. One lingering question though: what happens to the crusts?

APL Restaurant (Los Angeles, CA)

June 11, 2018, 8:00 pm

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APL Steakhouse
1680 Vine St, Los Angeles, CA 90028
323.416.1280
www.aplrestaurant.com
Mon 06/11/2018, 08:00p-10:25p



The biggest restaurant debut to hit Hollywood in a good while, Adam Perry Lang's eponymous APL opened on May 10th. Lang is, of course, well known for his facility with meat, barbecue in particular. However, APL's not a BBQ spot. Rather it's a steakhouse, one ostensibly inspired by those from the turn of the century (last century, that is), and one with a bit of a French accent. Given the considerable interest behind this place, we recently gathered a party to check it out.

About the Chef: APL was born Adam Perry in 1969, part of a Jewish family from Roslyn, Long Island. He first got interested in meat during childhood visits to Brooklyn's iconic Peter Luger, and cooked often with his family, though he never really considered it a potential profession. His parents divorced when he was 13, and mom ended up getting re-married to allergist Paul Lang. Lang served as a worthy stepfather, and as a result, the young Chef added his surname to his own. After high school, he attended the University of Wisconsin–Madison with the intent to study law, but, after viewing the results of an aptitude test, ended up deciding to pursue a culinary career. Following graduation in 1991, he started at the Culinary Institute of America, and during his time there, managed to land a gig at Le Cirque under mentor Daniel Boulud. He finished his studies at the CIA in 1993 and continued to cook at Le Cirque; when Boulud left to open Daniel shortly after, Lang went along with him.

During his tenure at Daniel, he also worked as a butcher at Brasserie Les Halles (where Anthony Bourdain made a name for himself), and in 1995, left to become a sous at David Waltuck's Chanterelle. He stayed for a year, then went to Paris. With Boulud's assistance, he was given the opportunity to work for Guy Savoy for eight months, and later spent time at Marc Meneau's vaunted L'Espérance. Lang returned to NYC in 1997, and accompanying him was artist Fleur Brenner, his new wife whom he met in France. He then secured a head chef position at Sicilian eatery Monzù, but was out after a year or so. He started private cheffing in 1998, and even founded a placement service called Culinary Stars. In 2000, a client had him out at a ranch in New Mexico, and this is where he really began experimenting with barbeque, in part as a backlash against the modernist cuisine movement taking hold at that time. His next big move came in 2003, when longtime friend Richard Gans introduced him to his father Robert Gans.

A real estate investor, the elder Gans had opened Penthouse Executive Club (yes, a strip club) in Hell's Kitchen, and tapped Lang to head up its in-house restaurant: Robert's Steakhouse. As part of the deal, a dry-aging room was installed in the basement, and Gans agreed to invest in the Chef's first solo project, Daisy May's BBQ (named after a Cocker Spaniel at the aforementioned ranch), which was just up the street from the Club. The takeout-only spot opened in August 2003 and became quite successful, spawning a number of food carts and even adding a dining room in 2006. In 2008, Lang left his duties at Robert's, and instead started running the dry-aging program for Carnevino, Joseph Bastianich and Mario Batali's steakhouse at The Palazzo in Las Vegas. May 2009 saw the publication of Serious Barbeque, while BBQ 25 dropped a year later. In 2010, he sold his stake in Daisy May's and teamed up with Jamie Oliver to open Barbecoa in London that November. Lang took a step back from that business in January 2012 however, and in May that year, released his third book, Charred & Scruffed.

The Chef moved to SoCal in 2013 and took up residence in the back lot of the El Capitan Entertainment Centre, home of Jimmy Kimmel Live! (he and Kimmel became friends in New York). The pop-up, known either as Back Lot BBQ or Serious Barbecue, kicked off that summer, and would go through several iterations throughout the years. August 2013 had Lang cooking a night at Animal, and in April 2015, he and Aaron Franklin came together for a joint dinner, also at Animal and in conjunction with Roy Choi and Jon Favreau (a tie in with the movie Chef). This was quickly followed by a pop-up with Franklin at Nick's Cafe, and a much fancier fête in September at the Hotel Bel-Air, this one featuring Wolfgang Puck and Francis Mallmann. Lang began working in earnest on APL in 2016, with the intent of opening in June 2017, though obviously that never happened.

Of note: Lang's partners here are none other than Kimmel and Kimmel's wife Molly McNearney. Running the FOH, meanwhile, is Director of Operations Sarah Kim, who boasts experience at The Redbury, Fifty Seven, Son of a Gun, and Cleo.



APL is located on the ground floor of the historic Taft Building, the same 1923-era edifice that houses Wood & Vine. The space had been vacant for some time, but was transformed into a 143-seat restaurant by the team of Sami Hayek (yes, Salma's brother) and Kathy Delgado (both friends of Lang), with significant input from the Chef himself. The overall vibe is a bit French brasserie-ish, classic, and there's no open kitchen for a change. There is, though, a private dining area in the back, and you'll also a find a small room out front--replete with David Choe mural--where Lang and Marcus Lewis (who's worked with the Chef since 2012) intend to sell BBQ sandwiches for lunch.


Aesthetically, APL's menu is inspired by those of NYC mainstay Balthazar. It features classically-leaning appetizers, a couple pastas, more-or-less traditional sides, and your requisite non-beef proteins, but naturally the focus is on the various cuts of 100-day dry-aged steak and Lang's signature short rib (the inspiration for David Chang's version at Majordomo). Note, however, that said short rib wasn't available tonight (despite being early in the evening on a Monday), much to our disappointment. Click for larger versions.



Libation-wise, you get cocktails from Beverage Director Jonathan Michael McClune (Cleo at LA Live, The Bazaar, Katsuya Hollywood, Cleo, Fifty Seven), while Evelyn Goreshnik (Scopa, Alimento, Petit Trois, Ford's Filling Station) handles the wine list. Click for larger versions.


Headless Horseman [$16.00] | El Pelotón Mezcal, Averna Amaro, All Spice Dram, Peach, Egg White
APL's cocktail list is fairly interesting, so we made sure to try a few of their drinks. Our first had an almost buttery aroma, which I wasn't expecting, along with warm spice notes from the dram. On the palate I found it creamy, with a buttery, corn-like sweetness finished with spice and smoke.


Roast Beef [$17.00] | Shaved, Chilled, Pickles
The roast beef made for a welcomed start to the meal. Its flavors were deep, concentrated, and thoroughly satisfying, and we all appreciated the contrast imparted by the combo of cornichons and mustard.


Burrata Stonefruit [$16.00] | Acacia Honey, Dates
Burrata arrived as luxurious as I wanted, and more importantly, meshed perfectly with the sweetness provided by both the honey and stone fruit. Deftly balanced, and a surprise standout.


I Love You, Man [$20.00] | George Dickel Rye, 45-Day House Aged Vermouth, Whiskey Cherry
This was my favorite of the cocktails, though I suppose it damn well better be at that price. A take on a Manhattan, it smelled strongly of heady dark fruit, with a touch of the whiskey--very appealing. Taste-wise, I found it bitter and boozy at first blush, but with notes of vermouth and berry coming in on the mid-palate, while the finish displayed a trace of nuttiness.


Caesar [$16.00] | Lil Gem Lettuce
We had no complaints with APL's Caesar salad. I got a pronounced bitterness from the greens that made sense with the lush, somewhat nutty dressing and salty shavings of cheese. Nice crunch and savoriness from the croutons, too.


Crab Gratin [$22.00] | Bearnaise
The gratin made for a cozy, comforting sort of dish, with a good back-and-forth between the briny bits of crab and what I believe was a base of potato. The included bread, meanwhile, served as a welcomed counterweight.


Tuxedo Mask [$16.00] | Toki Japanese Whisky, Orange Blossom Honey, Angostura Bitters, Sparkling Wine
Next was a reworked highball of sorts. Refreshing nose of citrus and apple, the whisky just peeking through. The palate was light and spritzy, with more fruity notes and a tinge of bitterness layered over a base of Toki.


Manischewitz Noodles with 4 Hour Bolognese [$20.00]
The pasta definitely came out softer than I would've liked, though I will say that I probably prefer my noodles more al dente than most. In any case, this was undoubtedly a homey dish, one with a welcoming richness and slight wine-y character from the bolognese that worked.


Bacon [$18.00] | Thick Cut
The Peter Luger-inspired bacon hit the mark. I really appreciated the char on the springy, snappy, extra thick cuts, and the pork also showed off a sweetness that just worked with the meat.


Blue Dream [$16.00] | Mount Gay Eclipse Rum, Blueberry Shrub, Creme de Violette, Lemon Verbena
This next cocktail was an easy-drinker. It conveyed robust notes of blueberry and violet, but tempered enough by the zippiness of verbena.


Cold Sweet Onions [$5.00] | "Ode to Peter Lugers"
Onions were a surprise hit thanks to their refreshingly sweet-but-astringent nature--a great counterpoint to the meat.


Stored in a custom Jimmy DiResta "knife vault" are APL's infamous steak knives, ostensibly hand-forged by the Chef himself after he learned the craft at the New England School of Metalwork in Maine. As for the $950.01 price tag on the menu? In California, $950 is the cutoff between petty theft (a misdemeanor) and grand theft (a felony), though I imagine the value of the knives could be disputed in court if it ever came to that. Note, however, that you do not have to pay a deposit or anything of that sort in order to use the cutlery.


NY Strip "Prime Rib" [$46.00] | English Cut
APL's "prime rib" definitely caught our eye, since it's a strip steak prepared in the style of a rib roast. Texturally the meat was spot on: tender, but still with a gratifying bite and substance to it. Flavors were about what you'd expect, and enjoyable overall, though I really thought the seasoning could've been more aggressive.


Fuck Dat Fries [$8.00] | Malt Vinegar, Salt
Fries were pretty much perfect. I found 'em crisp, yet soft on the inside, with just the right sprinkling of salt.


The Remedy #2 [$16.00] | Nolets Gin, Lillet Blanc, Maraschino, Geranium, Lemon
The cocktail above had a surprisingly weak nose--really not much going on there. Fortunately its taste was much more assertive, displaying the botanicals of gin alongside the sweetness of Lillet and a floral element from what must have been the geranium.


Côte de Bœuf [$135.00]
This 32oz bone-in rib steak apparently came from one of APL's first deliveries back in January, so it'd been dry-aging longer than most. I could certainly taste the age, that unmistakable earthiness and funk, while the cut's consistency was on the soft, silky side. Unfortunately, the steak arrived at a tepid temperature, which was a fairly significant issue for some of us.


Creamed Spinach [$8.00] | Confit Garlic
The creamed spinach was indeed one of the creamiest, smoothest preparations I've had. I was fan of its bitterness and its coziness, while the garlic provided an extra bit of zing.


NY Sour [$18.00] | Lot 40 Rye, Cabernet
Our final cocktail, the New York sour had a bouquet rife with red wine. However, said wine wasn't very apparent on the palate, which brought a prominent fruitiness along with the expected sourness and a bitterness on the finish. This one went down pretty easily.


APL's dessert menu is as straightforward as it gets, save for the oddly-named chocolate cake (see below). Click for larger versions.


Maple Pot De Crème [$12.00]
Our pot de crème wasn't shy about the maple, making for a sweet, satisfying dessert moderated just a tad by the whipped cream up top.


Apple Strudel [$12.00] | Schlog
The strudel had classic apple flavors and properly flaky crust, the schlag (another nod to Luger) serving as an appropriate accompaniment.


Nemesis [$12.00]
Last up was the Chef's version of The River Café's famous flourless "Nemesis" cake, which was apparently also on his menu at Barbecoa. It was definitely a rich, dense preparation, a sort of concentrated chocolate cake, one lightened up just enough by a dollop of cream. Note the candle, as we were here for a birthday.

With a few exceptions (e.g. Sushi of Gari), I'm generally not a fan of the Hollywood dining situation, and tend to avoid the area in general. APL, though, is likely a step in the right direction, and does seem to bring something at least a bit interesting to the steakhouse scene. That being said, we did have a couple concerns food-wise, so there's certainly room to grow. I do hope the place sticks around though.

Jaffa (Los Angeles, CA)

June 15, 2018, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Longo Seafood (Rosemead, CA)

≪ Previous: APL Restaurant (Los Angeles, CA)

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Jaffa Restaurant
8048 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.433.4978
www.jaffa.la
Fri 06/15/2018, 07:00p-09:40p





One of LA's latest new school Middle Eastern restaurants opened on January 31st. Named after an ancient port city that's now part of Tel Aviv, Jaffa ("yeah-foe" in Hebrew) is spearheaded by Chef Anne Conness (whom we last saw over at Sausal in El Segundo), and aims to present a modern, healthy interpretation of Israeli fare.

Running the show day-to-day, however, is Executive Chef Santos Navarro. A native of Oaxaca, he came to the Southland in 1988 and started out working as a dishwasher. He would eventually become kitchen manager at Matisse, located on Santa Monica's Third Street Promenade, and then spent time at Jose Noel's French Country Cafe in Beverly Hills. This was followed by time cooking under Eric Klein at Maple Drive Restaurant, now home to Suzanne Goin's Larder at Maple Drive. At the end of 2005, Navarro moved to Napa Valley Grille in Westwood, where he would later become CdC. It was also here that he first met Conness, who ran the kitchen from 2005 to 2006. In June 2009, he followed her to the new Tin Roof Bistro in Manhattan Beach, and subsequently attained the position of Executive Chef at the restaurant. Apparently, the two got interested in Mideast cuisine at a conference back in 2012. As a result, they began experimenting with the food, and later visited Tel Aviv for inspiration, and hence here we are today.

Navarro is joined by Consulting Pastry Chef Natasha Macaller, who spent 30 years as a professional ballerina. During that time, she also started Dancing Chef Catering, focusing her efforts on the entertainment industry. In 1996, she finished an 18-month program at the Colorado Culinary Institute, then went on to work at Chicago's iconic Charlie Trotter's under Pastry Chef Michelle Gayer. "Tash" then cooked at Spago (with Sherry Yard) and Campanile, where she first met Anne Conness. Following, she secured her first Pastry Chef position at Jeff Peterson's Union in Santa Monica (the space was last home to Wokcano). Macaller went on to write two cookbooks, and is working on a third. She's also the person responsible for the dessert program at Sausal, so this is the second time she and Conness have collaborated.

Rounding out the team are General Manager/Operating Partner Nancy Vrankovic, an alum of Tin Roof Bistro and Sausal, as well as Brad Conroy, head of Conroy Commercial (the real estate company responsible for leasing the property).



Jaffa occupies an address previously home to Blue Plate Oysterette, Luigi's on 3rd, Burger Kitchen, and Surya India. The indoor-outdoor space was penned by M Winter Design, a local firm responsible for the likes of Manuela, Gjusta, The Lincoln, and Melrose Umbrella Company. The most interesting facet of the design for me was the use of sandstone on the walls, which definitely gives the spot an aesthetic appropriate for the food being served.


And speaking of the food, Jaffa's menu features modern Israeli cuisine with a plant-based slant. Lunch/brunch are also offered, and the place caters, too. Click for a larger version.



Drink-wise, we were most interested in the cocktail program, which was designed by Aly Iwamoto (Here's Looking at You, The Varnish). There's also a small beer selection and a brief-but-global wine list. Click for larger versions.


Pomegranate [$14.00] | Old Overholt Rye, Laird's, Beet, Pomegranate, Lemon, Sumac, Egg White
The pomegranate-based cocktail was one of favorites this evening. I certainly got the sweet-tartness of the fruit on the nose, while the taste showcased more the earthy sweetness of beet along with bitter, spicy notes and a nuttiness on the close.


Hummus [$9.50] | Zatar • Tomato • Onions • Olive Oil • Pita or Crisp Veggies for Dipping
Naturally, we had to start with Jaffa's take on hummus. It was a creamy, smooth preparation that meshed beautifully with the olive oil. Even better, though, was the zestiness of the paired onions. As for the pita, it was a fairly prototypical preparation--dense, slightly chewy, but with a nice crispness to it.


Wheat [$14.00] | New Amsterdam Vodka, Wheatberry, Coconut, Matcha, Lemon, Black Pea Tea
Our next drink featured wheat berries, and was the most unexpected cocktail of the night. What really struck me was that it actually tasted strongly of popcorn, which I didn't necessarily mind, since it worked pretty well with the fruity elements present.


Tahina with Charred Eggplant [$16.00] | Baby Heirloom Tomatoes, Fava Leaves, Dukkah Nut & Spice Blend
Smoky, charred slices of eggplant had an effective back-and-forth with the lushness of tahini, all while tomatoes served as a light, juicy counterpoint.


Date [$12.00] | El Dorado 5 yr Rum, Date Syrup, Cardamom Bitters, Lime, Mint
The date cocktail was on the easy-breezy side for sure. I got lots of mint initially, which gave way to date sweetness and spice, as well as a finish rife with some almost curry-like notes.


Kubaneh Bread [$9.50] | Yemenite Pull-Apart Rolls • Grated Tomato • Green Zhug
The kubaneh was a favorite of ours. The bread pulled apart as easily as advertised, and had an airy-yet-substantial consistency, while its flavors were nutty, buttery. I really enjoyed it alone, but it was even better with a dab of tomato sauce or bright, zesty zhug.


Grape [$13.00] | La Caravedo Pisco Brandy, Fresh-Pressed Green Grape Juice, Elderflower, Prosecco
This cocktail was all about that sweet, juicy grape, layered over a base of pisco that provided just a touch of booziness for balance.


Smoked Trout [$14.50] | Idaho Trout • Red Beets • Garlic Labneh • Pickled Mustard Seeds • Horseradish
The trout was smoky enough, and went pretty well with the sweetness of the beets, which also provided a textural contrast. Moderating everything, meanwhile, was that creamy, zippy labaneh


Fig [$13.00] | Broadbent Boal Madeira 10 yr, Vodka, Rye, Fig Syrup
One of the headier cocktails we tried, this one smelled pretty great with its aromas of sweet, dark fruit and undercurrent of heat. Its taste was boozy but balanced, giving up more Madeira notes along with a sweet spiciness and a touch of bitterness.


Agnolotti [$15.00] | English Pea Ravioli • Turkish Yogurt & Tomato Sauce
Our sole pasta dish was to my liking with its bright, focused flavors of pea leading to the tanginess of that tomato sauce.


Mango Margarita [$12.00] | Espolon Silver Tequila, Spicy Mango Amba, Citrus, Sumac Salt
This mango-fied margarita kicked the classic cocktail up a notch with its sweet, fruity nuances and pricks of spicy heat.


Cauliflower [$11.50] | Turmeric • Tahina • Dried Plums • Garlic Labneh
I'm usually a big fan of cauliflower, but this preparation missed the mark. Texturally, it was just far too mushy, lacking in any crispness or snap. I also found it underseasoned, and the most dominant taste here was a sort of tea-like astringency that didn't sit very well with me.


Jaffa Nut Fizz [$12.00] | New Amsterdam Vodka, Coconut Saklov, Citrus, Egg White, Dukkah Nut & Spice, Bitters
This next cocktail definitely went down easily. Think nutty, sweet, creamy, with a nice touch of spice on the finish.


Kofte [$17.50] | Spiced Lamb & Wheatberry Meatballs • Hummus • Zhug • Local Cherries
Kufta, unfortunately, were on the tough, gritty side and not very juicy. Taste-wise, they had a sort of sweet-n-spicy character, which called for the application of zhug and hummus for balance.


Israeli-Style Fresh Mint Tea [$5.00]
The tea was on point, and I appreciated the subtlety of the mint here.


Market Couscous [$19.00] | Avocado Hummus • Roasted Root Vegetables • Harissa • Coriander
Couscous was well-cooked, making for a proper base to the dish, and all the flavors made sense, especially the harissa and carrots. However, overall I just found this forgettable.


Blue Collar [$13.50] | Old Overholt Rye, Cocchi Torino, Maraschino, Amaro Cio Ciaro, Orange Bitters
Strong citrus on the nose here, with the aromatics of the vermouth peeking through. The taste was definitely boozy, and again I got the Cocchi up front, transitioning to the maraschino before finishing with a persistent bitterness.


Hamshuka [$16.00] | Hummus • Spicy Shakshuka Sauce • Poached Egg • Pita
This mash-up of hummus and shakshouka was a favorite of mine thanks to the interplay between the chickpeas and that spicy, homey chili-tomato sauce, while the poached eggs added a further lushness to the mix. Very enjoyable with the paired pita.


Date Banana [$8.00] | Organic Tahini, Dates, Banana, Almond Milk
We made sure to try one of Jaffa's shakes. Though I really couldn't pick out any of the fruits, I did like the drink, especially the nuttiness on the back end from the tahini.


Sabich Flatbread [$14.50] | Crisp Eggplant • Hummus • Tahini • Pickles • Mango Amba with Slivered Organic Egg
Jaffa's take on sabih had a smokiness to it from the eggplant, but otherwise I found the dish rather bland. The amba didn't really help, either.


Army Navy [$12.00] | Beefeater Gin, Orgeat, Lemon, Angostura Bitters
This classic cocktail had a fairly restrained bouquet featuring a mix of orgeat and Angostura. On the palate, I found it sour at first, and slightly astringent, while the orgeat came in later, the drink ending with the heat of vodka.


Short Ribs [$36.50] | Harris Ranch Beef • Horseradish • Marble Potatoes • Garlic Spinach
Shorts ribs were as tender as they needed to be, but seemed a bit lacking in the taste department. I didn't get enough of that oomph, that dark, savory, slow-cooked flavor I was looking for. The spinach, meanwhile, gave the dish a very apparent bitterness, and I didn't mind those potatoes, either.


Chet Baker [$13.00] | El Dorado 5 Yr Rum, Cocchi Torino, Vermouth, Honey, Angostura Bitters
We finished with clearly the booziest cocktail of the bunch. Nose of spiced honey and vermouth, while in terms of taste, I got dark fruit and sweet spice mixed with a persistent alcoholic burn.



We were here for a birthday, and thus one of my dining companions baked a White Russian-inspired cake to mark the occasion. I think it did a fine job capturing the essence of the cocktail, really showcasing the bitter roastiness of coffee against the richness of cream.

Our meal was a mixed bag. While I enjoyed a number of the dishes we ordered, quite a few fell short. In general, I sort of get the feeling that the kitchen is holding back, playing it safe, perhaps because they're trying to appeal to a wider clientele. In any case, it seems to be working for them, as the team is apparently planning on opening a second Jaffa location in Palms within a year.

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Longo Seafood (Rosemead, CA)

June 23, 2018, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Kasih (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Jaffa (Los Angeles, CA)

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Longo Seafood Restaurant
7540 Garvey Ave, Rosemead, CA 91770
626.280.8188
Sat 06/23/2018, 07:00p-10:00p





Some friends and I had been wanting to do a Chinese banquet dinner for a while now, and we finally made it happen recently. Our venue of choice was Longo, which opened last September and is one of the more talked-about Hong Kong-style seafood restaurants around. As far as I know, the place isn't affiliated with the popular Toyota dealership in El Monte. Rather, the name is based on the restaurant's Chinese moniker: Hong De Pinwei.



Longo's probably one of the nicer-looking Chinese joints around town. The main dining area features a showy chandelier replete with an awkwardly placed column that I'm assuming is meant to evoke a tree trunk. The space also boasts an almost comically large television screen and is flanked by a number of private and semi-private dining rooms. We were fortunate enough to be seated in the fanciest of the PDRs, one featuring built-in karaoke equipment as well as its own bathroom. Note that this address has been home to a number of restaurants throughout the years, and former residents include Sunshine Seafood Palace/New Sunshine, Crown Palace, The Sun City, Sun City Seafood, LA Bistro, King Palace, New Capital/Seafood King, and Seafood City.



Above we see Longo's menu, which is about par for the course, listing your usual Cantonese favorites in addition to some more unexpected choices. Note, however, that we didn't actually order from said menu. Instead, the organizer of our dinner had his uncle arrange everything ahead of time, and we paid an agreed-to price of $139.75 a head--not including 9.5% tax and mandatory 20% gratuity--for our party of eight. Click for larger versions.



When I arrived, I found that our table was already set with a couple complementary appetizers: chicken feet and assorted duck parts in soy sauce.


We were able to get corkage waived, so I brought along a bottle of 2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. Very appealing bouquet of apple with traces of minerality and light citrus. Its palate was fresh, bright, smooth, with massive amounts of pome fruit backed by a trace of toast. The wine really had a vivaciousness that belied its age, and was drinking very well this evening.


1: Longo Suckling Pig (Half)
We commenced with half a roast pig, one featuring tender, juicy, richly flavored flesh and, more importantly, a wonderfully thin, crisp, "shatter-y" layer of skin that seemingly broke apart at the slightest bite. It was certainly delicious alone, but I didn't mind a dab of the sweet-ish, hoisin-like sauce on the side either. Probably the best cui pi shao zhu that I've had, and a very promising start to the meal.


2: Live Giant Clam | Sashimi
A raw presentation of xiang ba bang worked as a welcomed contrast to the meat above. Texturally, I found the geoduck somewhat crunchy, but still supple, with a fresh, mild sweetness at first transitioning to a growing, persistent brine. Great with a dip into the paired soy sauce (which also contained a dollop of the strongest wasabi any of us had ever had).


The innards of the clam were prepared salt-and-pepper style, which was a hit as well. I loved how the soft, creamy internals worked with their fried exteriors, while the salinity of the clam just made sense alongside the aggressive S&P notes and heat present.


3: Live Scallop | Steamed w/ Garlic
This was another table favorite, and one of the best preparations of shanbei that I've had in recent memory (Chinese or otherwise). I was a huge fan of the scallops' thin, crisp "skin," which worked wonders texturally. Meanwhile, flavors were subtly sweet 'n' oceany, and a great match with the dish's exquisitely herby, eggy sauce (we eagerly supped up the remainder).


Next to imbibe was the 2015 Kistler Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard. Lovely aromas of peach and flowers, with a definite sweetness. The palate was very enjoyable too, showcasing rich, concentrated tropical fruit and herb, all leading to a slight nutty character on the finish.


4: Black Truffle & Bird's Nest Thick Soup
The soup course was another standout. Its aromas were really quite heady, displaying an almost cheese-like funk intermingled with a mushroom-y umami note. The taste was similarly intense with its aggressively earthy, barnyard-y, but super comforting flavors, while the yanwo contributed a silky, gelatinous consistency to the broth.


5: Braised Fresh Abalone
Baoyu had a meaty, satisfyingly substantial texture that almost reminded me of an especially firm tofu. Its taste, meanwhile, was rich and robust, with tons of umami backed by a layer of marine sweetness. Great counterpoint here from the paired pea shoots.


6: Braised Sea Cucumber
Along with the abalone came a whole haishen, with its slippery, jellylike consistency. As expected, it didn't have much flavor on its own, but instead took on the dark, savory flavors of its sauce. And again, the slight bittersweetness of the pea pod leaves really worked for balance.


Red wine duties were handled by the 2010 Château Sixtine Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which we decanted for about an hour. I thoroughly enjoyed this one. I got an intense nose brimming with dark fruit, meat, earth, and olive. On the palate I detected more savory nuances, more olive, along with eucalyptus, mint, and berry fruit. Superbly balanced overall, and a beautiful pairing with some of our more darker-toned dishes.


7: Fried Squab
Deep-fried ru ge was as good as any I've had. The bird came out properly juicy, with an immensely gratifying savoriness cut by the sweet spiciness of star anise. The best part? That ultra thin, crisp skin that broke apart perfectly.


8: Live Boston Lobster | Ginger & Scallion
Next was a prototypical Hong Kong-style preparation of lobster. This one hit the mark as well, its springy, spongy flesh displaying a sweet 'n' savory flavor profile that really sang with the zestiness of those scallions.


The miscellaneous bits of the lobsters above were incorporated into a soup. For me this was cozy and homey, with a refreshingly robust vegetal component and a great textural element from all the rice.


9: Live Coral Trout | Steamed
Our final savory course brought out steamed dongxingban. I found the fish utterly tender, with an almost pillow-y consistency, while flavors were decidedly delicate, really taking well to the soy and scallion.


A half bottle of the 2011 Château Guiraud Sauternes served as our dessert wine. It smelled delectable, conveying super concentrated notes of pineapple and dried apricot, along with a bit of floral character. The palate was thick, round, and loaded with honey, stone fruit, and raisin, but also backed by a balancing acidity. Delightful.


10: Homemade Walnut Sticky Rice Ball
I found our first dessert somewhat reminiscent of Nesquik (a childhood staple of mine), but diluted. Think chocolate-y and nutty, with soft tangyuan-like glutinous rice balls adding further interest to the dish.


11: Longo Crepe
Next up were thin, savory, somewhat cong you bing-esque pancakes, wrapped around a sweet, nutty filling.


We ended with blocks of fragrant, tea-like Osmanthus Pudding; classically sweet Coconut Milk Red Bean Cake; and cool, nutty, minty Imperial Green Bean Cake.


One of my fellow diners happened to be an investor in Paderia Bakehouse in Fountain Valley, one of the buzzier OC openings of the past year. To supplement the desserts above, he brought along a box of the bakery's signature Chocolate Walnut Cookies. Weighing in at six ounces each, they were certainly the heaviest cookies I've ever tried, and rather tasty too: crisp on the outside, soft and oh-so chocolate-y on the inside, with walnuts plus pecans for a nutty contrast.

It'd been way too long since I'd last had a banquet-style dinner, and I'm really glad we finally got around to organizing one at Longo. The meal was basically flawless, and the food was executed with level of precision and finesse that I frankly wasn't expecting. In fact, many of the items were among the best (if not the best) examples of their respective dishes that I've tasted. Service, meanwhile, was pretty exceptional, though this was probably because we were in a private dining room. Overall, one of the strongest Chinese meals I've ever had, no doubt.

Kasih (Los Angeles, CA)

June 28, 2018, 8:20 pm

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Kasih Restaurant
200 S Los Angeles St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.266.8156
www.kasih.la
Thu 06/28/2018, 08:20p-10:40p





Indonesian fare doesn't seem to get that much attention in LA, so I was looking forward to Kasih ("love"), a contemporary Indonesian cuisine spot in Downtown that opened on March 29th. The place is headlined by Chef Vindex Tengker, an 18-year veteran of the Four Seasons and celebrity chef of sorts who's made appearances on MasterChef Indonesia, Top Chef Indonesia, and Iron Chef Indonesia. Also involved are Ron Ancheta and Ray Harsono (Big Bali Truck, Acabar), while the kitchen is run on a day-to-day basis by Chef de Cuisine Zachary Hamel.

About the Chef: Hamel, for his part, is a native of Madison, Wisconsin. However, his parents were teachers at an international school, and thus he moved to Thailand when he was nine, spending four years abroad. He later returned to Madison and started cooking, eventually securing a position at Tory Miller's L'Etoile (generally considered the best restaurant in the City) in September 2008. Hamel stayed nine months before deciding to revisit Thailand. In 2010, he enrolled at the Le Cordon Bleu Dusit Culinary School in Bangkok, and during his time there, staged at David Thompson's widely-acclaimed Nahm, which was conveniently located nearby. After completing his studies in 2011, Hamel relocated to New York and, starting that September, cooked for a year at David Chang's Má Pêche.

In October 2012, he went to Sydney and took on a station chef position at Ms.G's, an Asian fusion joint, and in April 2013, switched over to the longstanding Sailors Thai. That gig didn't last too long though, and so in April 2014 he was back Stateside, working as a tournant at L'Etoile once again. Hamel left Wisconsin for good at the end of that year, deciding to make LA his new home. He became a sous at Louis Tikaram's E.P. & L.P. in Hollywood at the start of 2015, and would stay there until last June, when he joined the Kasih team. In preparation for the restaurant's debut, he spent four months in Jakarta, Bandung, and Bali, training with Chef Tengker and learning about Indonesia's cuisine.


Kasih resides on the ground floor of the AVA Little Tokyo apartment building. It's a handsome, though oddly-lit space (everything was purple when we started the meal), and there's also quite a bit of seating outdoors. Total capacity is around 120.


Kasih's menu features updated takes on Indonesian classics of various persuasions and origins (the cuisine is quite regional). Drink-wise, we get concept-appropriate cocktails that are on the lighter side, a few more-interesting-than-expected beers, and a handful of domestic wine. There's also a full coffee program (not pictured), which is run by Harsono. Click for larger versions.


Lady Bird [$13.00] | Mezcal, tangerine shrub, lemon juice, and bird's eye chili
We ended up making our way through the entire cocktail list (it's not very long). Our first drink came out looking like OJ, and was almost as gluggable with its fruity, citrusy flavors backed by a slight bitterness and pinch of heat from the chili.


Sambal Tasting [$17.00] | Turmeric pickles, Zach snack, assorted crackers
Given that we had a large-ish party, we opted for the sambal sampler to start. The rice crackers worked great as a crunchy counterpoint to the sauces, and I was a big fan of the sweet 'n' spicy nuts, too. Clockwise from top-left, we had:

• Sambal Dabu Dabu | Heirloom tomato, shallot, lemongrass, lime, and habanero chili - Light and bright, but with a surprising depth to it and a lingering spice and savor. Also quite chunky, and the closest to a pico de gallo.
• Sambal Hijau | Tomatillo, serrano chili, shallot, lime and kaffir lime leaf - I found this one zippy and vegetal at first, though a piercing heat quickly appeared on the mid-palate.
• Sambal Tomat | Roasted tomato, shallot, chili, Thai basil and fresh lime - The mildest of the bunch, our third sambal definitely showed off the inherent sweetness of tomato.
• Sambal Nanas | Pineapple, chili and shallot - Sweet and fruity for sure, with a restrained heat.
• Sambal Terasi | Roasted tomato, Fresno chili, shrimp paste and fried shallot - The most intense of the fivesome, with a strong brine from the terasi and plenty of fire on the finish.

Snapper Ceviche [$18.00] | Hot and sour snapper ceviche with lemongrass, shallot, chili, and pickled celery
An Indonesian take on ceviche worked itself out. I got a satisfyingly meaty bite on the fish that I appreciated, while flavors represented a smart balance of sour and spicy that complemented the snapper without overwhelming it. Also key were the crackers, which offered a well-placed crunch.


Spicy Watermelon Special [$8.00] | Spicy chile vodka, lime, watermelon and mint syrup, frozen watermelon balls soaked in spicy chile vodka
The first of two cocktail specials this evening displayed loads of refreshing watermelon at first, leading to a palpable spice that sort of creeps up on you. Very little booziness here as well.


Tempe Kering [$17.00] | Smoked eggplant, king trumpet mushroom, sweet crispy tempe, lettuce cups and fresh herbs
This DIY-style dish married crunchy, nutty kering tempe with smoky eggplant, earthy 'shrooms, and plenty of herbs. The end result, wrapped in lettuce, was pretty damn tasty, with some great textures to boot (especially those king oysters).


Bebek Goreng [$17.00] | Crispy local duck quarters with Kasih spice blend, galangal floss and sambal hijau
Duck, unfortunately, was drier than I wanted, though its flavors were on point, and worked well with the paired sambal. Also of interest was the galangal floss (abon), which had a taste and texture that definitely reminded me of Chinese-style rousong.


The Gili [$12.00] | Vodka, mango tamarind syrup, simple syrup, lime, and bitters
This was another easy-drinking cocktail with nary any trace of booziness. Rather, I got a blend of mango and the unmistakable sweet spice of tamarind, all leading to a persistent heat.


Kari Ayam [$17.00] | Savory chicken curry, egg, chayote squash with sambal terasi and shrimp cracker
The kari ayam displayed plenty of your classically fragrant curry flavors over a base of tender chicken and supple squash. The egg added an extra bit of lusciousness to the dish, and I certainly liked the crunch of the shrimp crackers too. Homey and familiar overall.


Shandy Special [$8.00] | Vodka, lime, simple syrup, grapefruit shandy
The evening's second special cocktail was a great summer quaffer. It tasted like grapefruit soda at first, but also had some moderating bitter, grassy elements.


Perkedel Jagung [$11.00] | Sweet corn fritter bites with scallion served with pineapple sambal
Corn fritters were delightful, coming out perfectly fried, with a sweetness to 'em that worked effortlessly with the tanginess of that paired sambal.


Sate Ayam [$14.00] | Sweet soy glazed grilled chicken skewers with our signature peanut sauce
Satay's perhaps the most popular dish to come out of Indonesia, and is pretty ubiquitous at this point. I have to say, though, that Kasih's was easily one of the best I've had. The chicken was flawless, ariving tender and juicy and well-charred, with the perfect amount of sweetness and smoke.


Putri [$11.00] | Vodka, St. Germain, lychee juice, and raspberry liqueur
This next cocktail was probably the fanciest looking of the bunch. Taste-wise, I found it quite floral initially, with lots of sweet elderflower and lychee finishing with the heat of vodka.


Nasi Kasih [$16.00] | Special fried rice with pork, chicken, sambal terasi and fried egg
Kasih's take on nasi goreng delivered some uncommonly deep, earthy flavors, with a taste that one of my dining companions attributed to wok hei. You can't go wrong with the addition of egg either, and I also appreciated the textural contribution from those crackers.


Pepes Ikan Cod [$18.00] | Santa Barbara cod marinated in red curry and Thai basil grilled in a banana leaf served with snake bean and charred cherry tomato
A pepes prep of cod resulted in a firm, flaky, meaty fish with strong, but never domineering notes of lemongrass and curry spice. The various veggies, meanwhile, worked for contrast.


Tambling [$12.00] | Bourbon, black lemongrass tea, lemon, and raspberry liqueur
Our next cocktail was a sort of reworked whiskey sour. This was very light on the booze again, but instead conveyed plenty of sweet 'n' tart notes alongside the aromatics of tea.


Mie Goreng [$13.00] | Stir-fried noodles with shitake mushroom, zucchini, carrot, onion and fried egg
The mie goreng appeared to be more of a kwetiau goreng due to the thickness of the noodles, but I didn't mind the substitution. I found it a comforting dish for sure, its familiar, soy-fueled flavors meshing well with the veggies while the egg made things even better.


Mata Mule [$12.00] | Pear brandy, ginger-turmeric palm syrup, lime juice, and bitters
A riff on the Moscow mule was easy to enjoy, really showing off the fruitiness of the brandy against a backdrop of zesty ginger.


Babi Guling [$21.00] | Roast crackling pork belly, Balinese salad and chayote chicken broth
Pork was a touch tougher than I'd prefer, but was still juicy and quite tasty, with a properly crispy skin too. I also appreciated the broth on the side, which had a sweet, herby character that actually matched up well with the meat.


Rendang Sapi [$20.00] | Caramelized beef curry with sautéed spinach, confit pearl onion, fingerling potato, and market squash
Our final savory was this reimagined rendang. The beef ate tender thankfully, and had a very apparent coconut/curry/lemongrass flavor profile, but I wanted richer, more developed spice notes. Accompaniments of onion and spinach weren't exactly traditional, but served their role.


Kuno "Old Fashion" [$13.00] | Banana infused Bourbon, palm syrup, bitters, and orange oils
The evening's last cocktail was this take on an Old Fashioned. The drink smelled almost "eggy," which was interesting. The palate was viscous for sure, showing off loads of sweet banana up front leading to a marked booziness and traces of bitterness on the back end.


Above we see Kasih's dessert menu, which also holds the happy hour menu on its reverse. Click for larger versions.


Es Teller [$11.00] | Young coconut milk, pandan dumpling, nata de coco, seasonal fruit, avocado and Screwpine leaf rice
Our first dessert was this rather impressive looking version of es teler. I found it heavy on the pandan for sure, though the coconut definitely made for a sweet, refreshing balance. Some of my dining companions, meanwhile, were reminded of Vietnamese three-color che ba mau.


Coconut Panna Cotta [$11.00] | Layered lemongrass gelée, roasted coconut panna cotta, strawberry, mango purée and banana gelato
Last up was a panna cotta, which seemed much firmer and "stickier" than it usually is. The flavors worked though (think fruity, with lots of lemongrass), and I especially enjoyed that banana ice cream on the side.

I don't have Indonesian very often, so I'm glad to see Kasih as a new option in town. From what I can tell, the cooking doesn't adhere to tradition in a strict sense, but has a sort of cheffy, LA sensibility to it that serves the restaurant well for the most part. Though there are liberties taken, the food does seem to capture the essence of the cuisine, that delicate-yet-intense, often complex balance of sour, spicy, sweet, and savory, and so the place generally works pretty well for me.

Plate by Plate 2018 Ticket Giveaway

July 16, 2018, 3:21 am

≫ Next: Broken Shaker (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Kasih (Los Angeles, CA)

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On the evening of Saturday, August 4th, Project by Project will be hosting its 16th annual tasting benefit, Plate by Plate. PbP is a national 501(c)(3) non-profit centered around issues relating to the Asian-American community. Each year, the group chooses a particular theme to focus on, and partners with a charitable organization in that space. This year's theme is Immigration (very timely), and the partner is the OCA-GLA, a local non-profit that, among other things, runs a Mentored Path to Citizenship program that aids qualified individuals in applying for US citizenship. As always, the tasting will showcase the talents of some of LA's top restaurants, as well as beverages from a variety of leading purveyors. After two successful events at the California Science Center in 2016 and 2017, this year's benefit will be held at the new City Market Social House in the Fashion District. To get an idea of what Plate by Plate is like, be sure to check out my report from last year's event. Here's a list of who's coming so far (subject to change, of course):

.EAT. Alexander's Steakhouse B Sweet Dessert Bar Bavel Broken Spanish Chilola's Eric Bost Faith & Flower Gabi James Hinoki & the Bird Joy Kato Restaurant KazuNori Ms Chi Cafe Metropole Kitchen Otium Patina Rappahannock Oyster Bar Restauration Rosaliné Sotto Starry Kitchen Tsubaki Umi by Hamasaku Wolf

.VIP. Rossoblu Walter & Margarita Manzke (République, Petty Cash, Sari Sari Store)   .DRINK. 18 Social Ballast Point Drake's Brewing Company Hard Frescos Honest Tea Hubert's Lemonade Kawaba Kikori Whiskey Labobatory Macchiato Peking Tavern San Antonio Winery Sapporo Silk Road

Tickets are currently on sale. However, I'm also giving away *eight* tickets this year, the most ever: two VIP (normally $250 each) and six General Admission ($150). Tickets will be given away individually in order to spread the love around (my two favorite responses will receive the VIP tix). To win, here's what needs to go down: On either Facebook or Instagram, post something about this giveaway, for example, "I just entered for a chance to win two tickets to @ProjectbyProjectLA's Plate by Plate! Check out www.platebyplate.org/la/." Be sure to include the event link and the proper PbP tag (@ProjectbyProjectLA for Facebook, @pbpla for Instagram). Leave a comment here with: (a) your full name, (b) an email address to reach you, and (c) a link to your post above (be sure to make it a public one). Please submit entries by 7:00pm PDT on July 19th. We'll select the best one (hopefully you can come up with something more creative than my example above) and announce the winner. Good luck!

Broken Shaker (Los Angeles, CA)

July 3, 2018, 4:25 pm

≫ Next: Somni (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Plate by Plate 2018 Ticket Giveaway

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Broken Shaker at Freehand Hotel
416 W 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.395.9532
www.freehandhotels.com/los-angeles/broken-shaker/
Tue 07/03/2018, 04:25p-06:55p





Miami's Broken Shaker is considered by many to be one of the best cocktail bars in America, and is oft credited for revitalizing that City's drinking scene. The LA outpost of the bar debuted at the start of September last year, located on the rooftop of the Freehand hotel in a fun, casual setting replete with plenty of greenery, bright colors, and vintage tchotchkes. I'd been wanting to visit pretty much since the place opened, and I actually attempted to do so a couple times, but both tries were foiled by a lack of space and thus long waits. This time though, I decided to come at an off-peak hour, and was able to be seated at the bar immediately.

A bit of history: Broken Shaker is the work of Bar Lab, a beverage consultancy service, and its two founders, Gabriel Orta and Elad Zvi. The two first launched Broken Shaker in January 2012 as three-month (later extended to six) pop-up inside the old Art Deco Indian Creek Hotel in Miami Beach, which was in the process of being renovated by the Sydell Group (the firm behind NoMad and The Line). The residency proved to be highly popular, and when the Indian Creek transformed into Freehand Miami in December that year, Broken Shaker became a permanent part of the property. The bar continued its success story with a James Beard semifinalist nod for Outstanding Bar Program in February 2013, a feat that would be repeated a year later. 2014 also saw Broken Shaker place at #22 in the World's 50 Best Bars list; they were subsequently #14 in 2015, #16 in 2016, and #18 in 2017. The brand expanded to Chicago in June 2015, and a month later, the original was named "Best Hotel Bar" at the Spirited Awards, held at the Tales of the Cocktail event in New Orleans. The Los Angeles location, as we know, dropped in September 2017, and New York opened this May.


Menu-wise, you get about a dozen cocktails, divvied up into Seasonal and DTLA-Inspired selections, and all with a bit of a tropical, Miami-ish slant. Of course, there's beer and wine available too. Meanwhile, the drinks are joined by easy-going bar snacks with a bit of a multicultural edge. Click for larger versions.


RuPaul's Baby [$15.00] | lot 40 stirred with campari, sweet vermouth, bergamot italicus & re-purposed rhubarb cordial, served with a side of drag queen
Not gonna lie, I ordered this cocktail mainly to figure out what the "side of drag queen" was (turns out it's your choice of sticker on the cup). In any case, the drink was pretty tasty: noticeably fruity at first, but with a bittersweetness appearing on the mid-palate along with spice and a restrained booziness, while the finish displayed herbal, amaro-like characteristics.


Tuna tostada [$16.00] | albacore tuna, yuzu vinaigrette, scallion, jalapeno, cilantro
I tried some of the food as well, and the tostada turned out to be my favorite of the dishes I tasted. I liked that substantial-but-supple texture on the fish, while flavors were a near-perfect balance of heat, herb, and citric tartness. Great crunch from the tortilla, too.


Tai Hard [$14.00] | shaker rum blend mixed with blue curacao, tahitian vanilla & lemon verbena elixir, dusted with nutmeg
Next to drink was this reworked version of the Mai Tai, a tiki cocktail classic. It certainly had a tropical vibe (and coloration) going on, with sweet, fragrant vanilla and some almost coconut-y notes layered over an ever-so-slightly hot base of rum. I really wanted to get more from the nutmeg, however.


Guacamole [$12.00] | peanut salsa, tortilla chips
I'm a sucker for guac, so naturally I had to give it a go here. It was what I was looking for texturally, though I would've liked more acidity, more liveliness in the dip. That chunky peanut salsa, on the other hand, ate smoky and sweet, with the peanut definitely making itself known.


Let's Get High (Ball) [$14.00] | glenlivet founders reserve served over ice with giffard apricot & kimino yuzu bubbles, topped with farmers market thai basil and kiwis
Here was a take on the whisky highball. It was a fun, fizzy cocktail, the potency of the Glenlivet moderated by some almost candied stone fruit notes and the invigorating zestiness of yuzu and herb.


Crispy shrimp & potato taco [$12.00] | salsa campechano
The tacos were another standout for me. The key was the shrimp, which weren't overdone and showed off a proper brine that just worked alongside the potato, all while the relatively mild salsa served as a welcomed finishing touch. Nice crispness on the tortillas as well.


Agave Gracias [$15.00] | ilegal mezcal combined with braulio, lejay cassis & piloncillo sirop
The mezcal cocktail was the booziest of the bunch (though still not that boozy). I got appealing aromas of fresh citrus intertwined with loads of berry fruit (from the crème de cassis I'm guessing). On the palate, think more dark, juicy fruit along with the expected smokiness, a touch of piloncillo, and a bittersweet, medicinal element on the back end from the Braulio.


Vegetable egg rolls [$11.00] | sweet chili sauce, herbs, gem lettuce
Veggie egg rolls weren't particularly interesting, and pretty much tasted like what you'd find at your neighborhood American-Chinese joint. Make use of the included condiments for sure.


Sunset on La Playa [$14.00] | don julio, singani 63, swizzled with prickly pear, rosemary & fresh lime juice
The afternoon's final cocktail came recommend by my bartender. I really got the sweet, fruity nuances of the tuna initially. However, balance was provided by the zesty, herbaceous notes in the drink, while the tequila imparted an undercurrent of heat to the whole experience. A fun one to close with.

Broken Shaker was certainly one of the more rambunctious bars I'd visited in a while, and that exuberance manifested itself in the beverage program as well. The cocktails were on the fun, cheerful, easy-breezy side certainly, which is apropos for the summer. However, I'd be curious to try some heftier, more spirit-forward drinks from the team, though I may have to wait until the winter for that. In the meantime, Bar Lab is also behind Rudolph's downstairs in the lobby (named after former building owner Rudolph Rosenberg). That bar specializes in tea-infused cocktails, so I definitely want to give it a go sometime.

Somni (Los Angeles, CA)

July 10, 2018, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Sonoratown (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Broken Shaker (Los Angeles, CA)

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Somni Restaurant at SLS Hotel Beverly Hills
465 S La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
310.246.5543
www.slsbeverlyhillshotel.com/somni/ / www.sbe.com/restaurants/locations/somni/
Tue 07/10/2018, 08:30p-11:20p



A restaurant-within-a-restaurant situated in the back room of José Andrés' The Bazaar, Saam had always been one of the more ambitious kitchens in LA ever since its debut in 2009. However, the place never seemed to catch on, never seemed to garner much attention, and ended up closing without too much fanfare at the end of July last year, ending its run with a couple special dinners with Mugaritz's Andoni Luis Aduriz. And in fact, Saam's replacement had been in the works since at least 2015, a replacement designed to create more intimacy, more interaction between guests and cooks. Somni ("dream" in Catalan) thus opened on March 9th as an evolution (or perhaps transformation) of Saam, one run by Aitor Zabala, longtime Culinary Director of Andrés' ThinkFoodGroup.

About the Chef: Zabala's family hails from Basque Country, though he grew up in Barcelona. His mother actually had a Basque cuisine restaurant, but didn't want him following in her footsteps. He thus joined the armed forces and worked on motorcycles before deciding to dedicate himself to cooking, subsequently earning his culinary degree from La Escuela de Hostelería Hofmann in Barcelona. Following, Zabala worked for two years as a line cook at Pedro Subijana's Akelarre in San Sebastian, spent two years at ABaC in Barcelona as sous, then served as CdC at Alkimia for another two years. He also underwent a number of stages during this period, including one at San Sebastian's vaunted Arzak. After leaving Alkimia, the Chef joined the team at elBulli, which is where he really got into modernist cooking.

It was also here where Zabala would meet José Andrés for the first time (he happened to be visiting with Anthony Bourdain). Andrés brought him back to Washington DC, but Zabala wasn't impressed, and quickly returned to Spain. However, following a stint in Quebec, he eventually followed a girlfriend back to the US, got in touch with Andrés, and joined his team in June 2010. At ThinkFoodGroup, he helped open a number of projects, including Jaleo and China Poblano in Vegas, America Eats Tavern in DC, Mi Casa by José Andrés in Puerto Rico, the new incarnation of Minibar, and an iteration of The Bazaar at Miami's SLS South Beach. Afterward, Zabala made his way to LA to helm the kitchen at Saam, which set the stage for where we are today.

The logistics: This is a tickets-only sort of place, and said tickets are available on Tock, released at 10am Pacific the first Monday of every month for the following month. The price of the 20+ course menu is $235 per person, which includes valet but not the 20% service charge or 9.5% tax. The total base price is thus $308.79. The restaurant seats up to 10 diners at a time at two seatings: 6:00pm and 8:30pm, Tuesdays through Saturdays.


The former Saam space was redone by Juli Capella, who also designed Minibar, and there's definitely a family resemblance between the two. Whereas Saam held roughly 40 diners, Somni seats a mere fourth of that. The room is rendered in light earth tones, with liberal use of oak and white marble, while three Okuda San Miguel sculptures on the wall contribute pops of color. The kitchen is open, of course, and fronted by a healthily-sized prep area.


Above we see the evening's (minimalist) menu, which encompassed 22 courses. Wine pairings are available at $175/Unique, $250/Prized, and $500/Vintage levels (we went with the middle one), and there's also a $75 infused grape juice pairing option. Corkage, meanwhile, is a very hefty $80, limit two per party. In addition, the full listing of the staff is a nice touch I have to say. Click for larger versions.


1: gin and pine
Upon taking our seats, we were soon presented with the night's opening cocktail, which I believe was called a "Pine One." It combined Oregon spruce with fire-roasted pineapple and drops of Mediterranean gin, and definitely served its purpose of awakening the palate. I got an abundance of sweet, smoky, herbaceous, and savory, all in harmony, with a great back-and-forth between the competing elements. Nice temperature contrast, too.


2: chicken skin with foie gras
2013 Moussé Fils Champagne Special Club
The meal proper began with a parade of opening snacks, and up first was a whimsical preparation of foie gras that was certainly a taste of things to come. I got plenty of the saltiness, savoriness, and crunch of the chicken skin right away, which then led to the rich, refined essence of foie. The combo actually worked out surprisingly well.

Along with the snacks came our first wine, a sparkler utilizing 100% Pinot Meunier, which you don't see very often. The nose on this one was fruit-forward and sweet, with fresh citrus and a yeasty underpinning. The palate was smooth, easy, bringing more lemon and pome fruit alongside a backing of toast. Tasty.


3: apple and beet floret
2013 Moussé Fils Champagne Special Club
Our second snack was an apple meringue floret with dots of beet. What really surprised me here was how airy the meringues were; they had almost no weight to them, which was actually a tad disconcerting. Taste-wise, we got a tart, fruity punch up front, while the tangy, lactic nature of the meringue made itself known on the back end.


4: almond shell
2013 Moussé Fils Champagne Special Club
Next up were some rather realistic looking almond shells filled with lemon and almond cream. These were super delicate, their thin, fragile shells breaking apart at the slightest bite, revealing a multifaceted sweet nuttiness with an almost candied character. This made me smile.


5: idiazabal leaf
2013 Moussé Fils Champagne Special Club
A cheese cracker masquerading as a leaf combined lemon, smoked Idiazabal, and oregano powder. The end result was a salty, crisp chip that really highlighted the pure, unmitigated richness of the cheese. This one definitely didn't taste like it looked.


6: pan con tomate y jamón
2013 Moussé Fils Champagne Special Club
A riff on the Catalan staple of pa amb tomàquet was memorable for sure. What was awesome here was the texture on the bread, which I believe had all the water extracted out of it, resulting in a firm-yet-yielding, ethereal consistency that actually reminded me of floral foam. A topping of jamón ibérico butter and fresh tomato, meanwhile, gave the dish some delightfully sweet, smoky flavors that really captured the soul of the classic dish.


7: caviar hand
2013 Moussé Fils Champagne Special Club
The "caviar bump" was given a makeover in our final snack. Earlier that day, Russian Ossetra was infused with black truffle for six hours, and the resulting caviar was wonderfully smoky and saline, with the truffle omnipresent, but subtle, peeking through just enough to make things interesting. And yes, if you're wondering, someone has indeed "put a ring on it," using one of the hands for a marriage proposal.


8: santa barbara spot prawn
2009 Luis A. Rodriguez Vazquez Ribeiro Viña de Martin Escolma
At this point we moved into some more substantial courses. Live Santa Barbara spot prawns were dispatched mere minutes before hitting our plates, their heads seared on the plancha and their bodies smoked. The resultant shrimp was supple, but with a crispness to it, and among the sweetest-tasting I've had, perhaps due to the contrast imparted by the smoke. And yes, you absolutely gotta suck the head, which was positively earthy, filled with the concentrated quintessence of the crustacean.

Our paired wine came from the northwestern portion of Spain, near the Portugal border, and was created using Albariño and Treixadura grapes. Intense nose of rich stone fruit, flowers, and funk. Taste-wise, I got more fruit alongside some grassy nuances, oak, and minerals. Quite nice.


9: live scallop
2009 Luis A. Rodriguez Vazquez Ribeiro Viña de Martin Escolma
Scallop was accompanied by smoked burrata, buttermilk, basil, and basil seed "caviar." The dish was a treat for the eyes, while the scallops showed off a soft sweetness and salinity perked up by the brightness of basil and a trace of smoke. My favorite part, though, was the lactic, creamy element from the buttermilk, which was totally unexpected.


10: "croissant"
2015 Domaine de Bellivière Jasnières Les Rosiers
Inspired by a traditional Catalan fisherman's stew called suquet, this course was a table favorite. In the cup was lobster broth enriched with mushroom cream. It was like lobster bisque, but so much better, so much more condensed, so much more gratifying. What was even more magnificent, though, was the potato "croissant," comprised of thin, mandoline'd potato formed into the shape of the pastry. It just may have been the best presentation of potato I'd ever had: texturally crisp, flaky, but soft, with focused, yet utterly finessed potato flavors. And yes, be sure to dip.

Accompanying the dish was a Loire Valley Chenin Blanc, made from 50-year-old vines and finished on young French oak. The wine smelled of bright, ripe, juicy apple--quite nice. The palate was smooth, slick, and I noticed vibrant notes of fruit and flowers, making for a somewhat off-dry, but very pleasing sensation.


11: pigtail curry bun
2015 Domaine de Bellivière Jasnières Les Rosiers
Following was another favorite of ours. We had here pig tail, braised in red curry sauce, then formed into a bun and dusted with curry leaf powder and served with more curry sauce for dipping. I loved the zestiness, the richness, the depth of the curry and how it meshed with the pork, forming a familiar but oh-so elegant flavor profile that was just deeply satisfying. And the bun? Think flaky, soft, savory, a perfect vessel for the tail. Superb--I wanted to pop about a dozen of these.


12: strawberry negroni
Our second "cocktail" marked the midway point of the meal and served as a sort of intermezzo. It was a strawberry shell filled with liquid strawberry, vermouth, and Aperol. I found it super delicate, and fun, the dish bursting in the mouth at the faintest provocation, coating the palate with bright berry flavors moderated by a touch of basil.


13: kohlrabi and snap peas
2017 Ruth Lewandowski Wines Feints Fox Hill
The latter half of our meal commenced with a kohlrabi bowl containing hand-selected "very tiny peas" picked just for this service, kohlrabi purée, truffle gelée, and thinly-sliced Italian black truffle. We were instructed to eat from the bottom up in order to get all the various elements, and the effect was pretty great, the sweet flavors of the pea working seamlessly with the truffle's earthy musk. What I found most interesting, though, were the peas themselves, which were indeed the smallest I'd ever seen and thus gave the dish an unexpectedly intriguing textural profile.

Along with this course came arguably the most interesting wine of the pairing, one apparently made from Italian grapes (Arneis, Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo) grown and fermented in Mendocino County, but later aged in concrete "eggs" in Salt Lake City. It was super fun, and very quaffable for the summer, its ripe nose of berry and flowers leading to a tart, tannic, red fruit palate that was bright and utterly refreshing.


14: alubias con jamón
2017 Ruth Lewandowski Wines Feints Fox Hill
A classic dish of pinto beans and ham was given a drastic update. It just wouldn't seem right to have a meal here without some sort of spherification, and so we had spherified "beans," soft, fragile, jiggly specimens that really did recall your everyday alubia. The key here, though, was that jamón ibérico-infused broth, which was wonderfully rich and full-flavored, and really did provide a cozy feel to the dish.


15a: turbot sequence and mushroom tea
2017 Ruth Lewandowski Wines Feints Fox Hill
Here was turbot from Spain, the loin tempura'd and served atop its deep-fried, dehydrated skin. I loved the salty, super crisp chicharrón, which actually operated beautifully as a counterbalance to the fish, while the greenery on top provided a sour, zippy accent that worked as a finishing touch. Interestingly, I think I actually enjoyed this better without the espuma on the side.


15b: turbot sequence and mushroom tea
2017 Ruth Lewandowski Wines Feints Fox Hill
Next, turbot wings were lightly smoked, then glazed with veal sauce. We treated them like ribs, pulling the wings apart and reveling in their smoky, sweet, savory, bony and gelatinous nature. On the side was a cup of mushroom and lemon verbena tea, which functioned as an astringent palate cleanser that really evened out the potency of the fish.


16: japanese a5 wagyu & bone marrow
2013 Edmunds St. John Syrah North Canyon Road Fenaughty and Barsotti Ranch
Our "main course" was dry-aged A5 wagyu from Miyazaki tiled with butterfly sorrel, accompanied by bone marrow sauce and a smoked Harry's Berries strawberry. The beef itself was pretty much flawless, arriving properly rare, with just the right amount of sear and its fat perfectly integrated. However, the crux of the dish was the sorrel, which imparted a tart, puckering contrast that really perked up the meat.

To drink, we had Syrah made by a wife-and-husband team from California's Sierra Foothills. I got an invigorating nose rife with jammy fruit, smoke, and baking spice. The palate followed, giving us more smoke, more herbs, a touch of meat, and lots of berry fruit--very smooth, and very tasty.


17: nori empanada
This course marked the transition from savory to sweet: seaweed candy stuffed with black sesame butter. The umami from the nori really hit me at first, but this quickly faded into the sweet, creamy, nutty nature of the butter, while the seaweed once again returned on the finish.


18: "snowflake"
2010 Argyros Vinsanto 4 Years Barrel Aged
Our first dessert was comprised of mandarin-olive oil ice cream, mandarin gastrique, crema catalana, and yogurt "snow," all topped with a cracker. Taking it all together, the end effect was all creamy and citrusy and not unlike that of an orange Creamsicle. Loved the crunch from the "snowflake," too.

Dessert wine duties were taken care of by a Vinsanto from Santorini, one aged four years in French oak and another year in the bottle. It was just what I wanted. Heady bouquet rife with rich raisin notes and baking spice along with a nutty, oxidative character. The palate was thick, and displayed more sugary, aromatic raisin and honey, but this was balanced out by a persistent acidity and just a smidge of booziness. Delish.


19: black forest pizzelle
2010 Argyros Vinsanto 4 Years Barrel Aged
A dark chocolate pizzelle had hidden underneath three representations of cherries, more chocolate, and vanilla ice cream. It really did recall the chocolate, cream, and dark fruit flavors of a classic Black Forest cake, and I especially liked the sort of minty accent present.


20: mochi
2010 Argyros Vinsanto 4 Years Barrel Aged
Next was a har gow-shaped dumpling flavored with rice pudding, making for a sweet, but also floral bite with a pleasantly-textured wrapper. I could've used a couple more of these guys.


21: matcha donut
2010 Argyros Vinsanto 4 Years Barrel Aged
A fried doughnut filled with green tea ice cream was as fun as it sounded, its superb bittersweet matcha notes marrying beautifully with the crisp, classic donut dough. And again, I wouldn't have minded a baker's dozen.


22: merienda
2010 Argyros Vinsanto 4 Years Barrel Aged
We ended with a miniature sandwich of sorts, composed of white chocolate, chocolate ganache, toasted brioche, and olive oil. It served the role of a mignardise in effect, with its recognizable chocolate-y flavors and slight crunch.


To round out the meal, we ordered two amari: the ubiquitous Amaro Nonino, Quintessentia, Friuli [$15] and the Varnelli, Amaro Dell'Erborista, Marches [$15], an unfiltered, sweeter-than-usual example that we were all quite enamored with.

Having been to Minibar in DC and é in Las Vegas, I'd always felt like Saam wasn't quite at their level. With Somni though, that's all changed. This place is right up there with the flagships of Andrés' restaurant empire. Compared to the more whimsical, technique-heavy nature of Minibar and the theatrics of é, Somni seems more focused on product, on the classics. The cooking still leans avant garde, certainly, but it's rooted in Spanish tradition, with a Californian touch. The food is uncompromisingly precise, finessed, but also less cerebral than I'd anticipated, instead focusing on pure, unmitigated deliciousness. Somni is no doubt one of the most exciting dining experiences (and I emphasize the experience aspect of it) in town at the moment, and I do hope it gets the recognition it deserves.

Sonoratown (Los Angeles, CA)

July 13, 2018, 7:10 pm

≫ Next: E.R.B. (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Somni (Los Angeles, CA)

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Sonoratown Restaurant
208 E 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.628.3710
www.sonoratownla.com
Fri 07/13/2018, 07:10p-08:05p





I recently had a friend visiting from Korea, and one of the first things she requested food-wise was a good taco (which is hard to find over there). We decided upon Sonoratown, one of the more lauded taquerias to debut in recent times. The spot opened at the start of June 2016, set in the former Fashion District home of Mexican eatery Toto's and froyo/sandwich/sushi purveyor Freli before that. It's the work of Chef Teodoro "Teo" Rodriguez-Diaz and his girlfriend Jennifer Feltham, two longtime Downtown denizens who apparently met while working at Bäco Mercat. Named after a former LA neighborhood that was home to numerous Sonoran immigrants in the mid-1800s, the place specializes in tacos in the style of the Chef's hometown: San Luis Río Colorado in the state of Sonora.


Sonora is known for its mesquite-grilled meat and flour tortillas, and that's exactly what the menu reflects. Just pick your protein and pick your format, basically. Click for a larger version.


Carne Asada Taco [$2.00] | Small Flour Tortilla, Salsa Roja, Avocado and Cabbage
We had to begin with Sonoratown's signature asada. It's made from short rib, cut small and seasoned only with salt, then grilled over mesquite. The end result was pretty damn delish. What struck me the most was its smokiness, which was robust and omnipresent, but never domineering, and well-matched with the dish's various accompaniments. Texturally, the beef was tender, with just a smidge of crispy caramelization that I definitely appreciated. The tortilla is worth mentioning too, since it's far more finessed that your usual flour example, coming out thin--almost translucent actually--with a pleasant, stretchy chew to it.


To go with our tacos, we opted for a can of the 2018 Bruery Terreux Bruesicle: DFG, a blend of foeder- and barrel-aged sour blonde ales with dragon fruit, white guava, vanilla, and lactose added. The beer smelled lovely, with appealing aromas of sweet-tart fruit commingled with a trace of vanilla. Its palate was thick, smooth, and showed off more juicy tropical fruit evened out by a tart, acidic backbone.


Crispy Tripa Taco [$2.00] | Small Flour Tortilla, Salsa Roja, Avocado and Cabbage
The tripas were as crispy as advertised, while flavors were earthy, offal-y, and once again, delightfully smoky. Even better with a squirt of lime.


Chorizo Estilo Sonora Taco [$2.00] | Small Flour Tortilla, Salsa Roja, Avocado and Cabbage
Chorizo was provided by The Chori-Man (i.e. Humberto Raygoza of San Pedro), and did not disappoint. The crumbly, moist-but-not-greasy sausage showed off a palpable, pervasive heat, but also one that never got in the way. Yum.


Pollo Taco [$2.00] | Small Flour Tortilla, Salsa Roja, Avocado and Cabbage
The chicken arrived well-textured, and was, not surprisingly, the least aggressive meat of the bunch, but still effectively conveyed the mesquite-fueled smoke of Diaz's grill.


Next to drink was the 2015 Hill Farmstead Civil Disobedience #14, a blend of ales aged in wine barrels for 16 to 30 months. Beautiful bouquet featuring juicy stone fruit, flowers, and a funky, acetic underpinning. Taste-wise, I found the beer bright and perky, with citrus and more stone fruit joined by yeasty notes and oak in the background. One of my dining companions was actually reminded of drinking vinegar.


Machaca (Beef) Chivichanga [$4.00] | Small Burrito Filled with a Guisado of Monterrey Jack, Mild Cheddar, Blistered Tomato, & Smoky Anaheim Chile
Here was a gently-fried burrito of sorts, one of that was like a more finessed version of the frozen supermarket chimichangas from my childhood. The marriage of stewed meat and cheese--and there was a lot of cheese--was just spot on, and utterly comforting, with a touch of heat to boot. And given the heft of the dish, the tortilla actually served as a much appreciated contrast to it all.


Pollo Lorenza [$4.00] | Crisp Corn Tostada, Monterrey Jack, Salsa Roja, Avocado and Cabbage
The lorenza was a winner as well. I was a big fan of how crispy the tostada was, which made the dish relatively easy to eat. Flavors, meanwhile, were pretty close to that of the tacos above.


Chorizo Estilo Sonora Quesadilla [$4.00] | Like a Mulita on a Flour Tortilla, with Avocado, Monterrey Jack and Salsa Roja in the Middle
We ended with Sonoratown's take on the quesadilla, which was sort of like a taco-mulita hybrid. I enjoyed it as well, as it really highlighted the richly spicy, savory nature of the chorizo, while the cheese was a natural, delicious pairing.

My friend from Korea was quite satisfied with her tacos, and I was as well. The food's Sonoran slant makes the place stand out for sure, and I can see why their asada taco was deemed the best in the City in 2017 by the folks over at L.A. Taco. Los Angeles is a taco town no doubt, and Sonoratown looks to be one of our best.

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After dinner, we were in the mood for some dessert, and thus headed on over to Salt & Straw in the Arts District for some ice cream. They were featuring a seasonal berry menu for the month of July, so we opted for servings of Birthday Cakes & Blackberries / Goat Cheese Marionberry Habanero as well as Dough & Co Peanut Butter Cookies & Wild Berry Jam / Meyer Lemon Buttermilk with Blueberries.

E.R.B. (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

July 13, 2018, 9:15 pm

≫ Next: Rudolph's Bar & Tea (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Sonoratown (Los Angeles, CA)

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Everson Royce Bar / ERBar / ERB
1936 E 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.335.6166
www.erbla.com
Fri 07/13/2018, 09:15p-12:25a





Following dinner at Sonoratown and dessert at Salt & Straw, we were in the mood for some cocktails, and thus decided to take our friend from Korea to ERB, one of our preferred bars in Downtown.


Aesthetically, the menu's changed quite a bit since I last posted about the place, and the selection of drinks and food has been slightly enlarged. Click for larger versions.


Money Penny [$12.00] | bourbon. sacred bond brandy. gran classico.
We opted to start with ERB's two barrel-aged cocktails. The nose on this one was filled with dark fruit and oak, along with a distinct booziness and light caramel. The palate was again hot and astringent and oaky, with an herbaceous, grassy, long-lasting finish.


Sweep the Leg [$13.00] | tequila. campari. giffard pamplemousse. pierre ferrand dry curaçao.
The second barrel-aged cocktail showed off appealing citric aromas, along with a sweet, almost amaretto-like character. Taste-wise, I found it quite smoky at first--from the tequila I'm assuming--but this quickly led to candied grapefruit notes from the Giffard, which were evened out by the bittersweetness of Campari.


Southern Squall [$14.00] | white rum. wray & nephew rum. chartreuse. orgeat. lime. nutmeg. mint.
Our next cocktail was on the lighter side, but not by too much. For me, the dominant element here was actually the Chartreuse, which had its sharply herby, vegetal flavors on display, moderated just a tad by the orgeat and lime while the rums lent the requisite heft to the drink. I would've liked to have gotten more from the nutmeg though.


Lager & Irish Whiskey [$10.00] | peroni nastro azzuro + tullamore dew whiskey
Park Beer & Chilled Gin [$10.00] | fort point park hoppy session ale + hedge trimmer gin
At this point, we ordered a couple boilermakers (a shot and a beer). I especially enjoyed the second example with the Fort Point, since the botanicals from the gin really meshed well with the beer's hoppiness.


Yo LA Tengo [$13.00] | mezcal. aperol. ginger. lime. grapefruit. soda.
This was easily the most quaffable cocktail of the evening. I got lots of grapefruit at first, which transitioned to spice and smoke and a finish filled with the bittersweetness of Aperol.


Pink Beamer [$13.00] | vodka. montenegro. orgeat. grapefruit. lime. peychaud's bitters.
Next came another relatively easy-drinking cocktail. Again, lots of juicy grapefruit initially, but augmented by the sweetness of orgeat, while the Montenegro and Peychaud's worked as a bitter contrast. I will say that we all expected this to be pink given its name, so that was sort of an anticlimax.


The Newest Old Fashioned [$14.00] | bourbon. amaro angeleno. forbidden bitters.
This take on the most classic of cocktails was no doubt the most potent of the bunch. Nose of almost candied citrus and dry herbs, with a trace of dark fruit. In terms of taste, I got a blast of bourbon up front, joined by bitter citrus, zesty herbs, and warming spice, again with more candied character on the finish.


Field Day [$12.00] | aperol. watermelon. lemon. fino sherry. ancho reyes. balsamic.
Our final cocktail was an interesting one. It showcased some juicy watermelon notes on the nose, along with a touch of tangy balsamic. Meanwhile, the palate was again rife with sweet watermelon, cut by the balsamic and the bitterness of Aperol. My favorite thing, though, was the sherry, which gave a wonderfully oxidative note on the back end.

ERB's back patio was even better than I remembered, and made for a fitting conclusion to the night. I definitely appreciate the more relaxed atmosphere of this place, while the drinks and food (which we really didn't sample tonight) are certainly worthwhile as well. I guess that's why ERB's a place we just keep coming back to.

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Rudolph's Bar & Tea (Los Angeles, CA)

July 14, 2018, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Marché Moderne (Newport Beach, CA) [3]

≪ Previous: E.R.B. (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Rudolph's Bar & Tea at Freehand Hotel
416 W 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.612.0021
www.freehandhotels.com/los-angeles/rudolphs-bar-tea/
Sat 07/14/2018, 07:30p-10:50p



I wrote about Broken Shaker recently, and at the end of that post, mentioned that I really wanted to try the Freehand's other drinking option: Rudolph's. Well it looks like I made that happen in relatively short order. The bar opened in June 2017, and is also the work of Gabe Orta and Elad Zvi from Broken Shaker. It's named after Rudolph Rosenberg, a former owner of the Commercial Exchange Building, and specializes in tea-infused cocktails, which you don't see very often.



Penned by Roman and Williams, Rudolph's resides in the lobby of the Freehand. It's a cozy space, with a sort of a Craftsman feel to it.


Menu-wise you get a compact-but-interesting cocktail list divvied up into New World and Old World selections. There's beer and wine too, and of course you get can actual tea here as well. As far as food goes, Alex Chang from The Exchange is serving up a selection of Mediterranean-ish plates. Click for larger versions.


Come On Baby Light My Fire [$15.00] | Hibiscus Infused Martell VS Cognac & Leblon Cachaca, Creme de Banane, Fresh Lime, Passionfruit, Topped With Genghis Khan Tea Infused Rum & Cinnamon
Our first cocktail was a rather festive-looking number. I got loads of tropical fruit up front, leading to bitter, medicinal, smoky notes and a tart-ish finish. A fun one.


Albacore tartare with aguachile, labneh, santa barbara pistachio & avocado [$16.00]
Supple chunks of tuna meshed with creamy labaneh and the tart, acidic taste of its aguachile marinade. I appreciated the slight heat in the dish as well, and the crunch of the tostada worked for texture.


Crab & corn croquettes [$12.00]
Croquettes were properly crisp, with runny interiors teeming with sweet corn. The corn, though, was actually overpowering, and I had a hard time identifying the crab unfortunately. Also present was a curry-like spice that I didn't mind.


We're Not In Kansas Anymore [$15.00] | Ballantine's Scotch, Maraschino, Fresh Lemon, Coffee Infused Punt e Mes, Sour Cherry Bitters, Ricard Pastis Cherries
This was probably my favorite of the cocktails I tried. I found it on the floral side, and smooooth, with a restrained bitterness, a bit of fruit, and delightful notes of roasty coffee. Also appreciated were the anise-y cherries on the side.


Cauliflower, preserved lemon aioli, pecorino, almond & pita breadcrumbs [$9.00]
Cauliflower arrived well-textured and loaded with smoky, savory flavors that were evened out by a smooth, tangy aioli.


Sicilian anchovies, harissa, parsley & fetta unta [$8.00]
Anchovies were as fishy as you'd expect, but never overwhelmingly so, and worked great alongside that harissa. I was also a big fan of the paired bread as well.


If It Ain't Broke [$15.00] | Eagle Rare Bourbon, St. George Raspberry Brandy, Rudolph's Spring Tea Blend, Fresh Lemon, Mint, Topped With Homemade Raspberry Compote
I found this cocktail punch-like at first, with its raspberry on display. However, this quickly transitioned to a tea-like astringency, while the finish was bitter and slightly anise-y, with a medicinal bent.


Japanese tomato salad, black sesame dressing, avocado, cucumber & feta [$12.00]
A warm salad worked itself out, the robust, nutty sesame dressing really tying everything together. Nice salty accent from the cheese, too.


Chicken schnitzel, crispy fingerling potatoes & gribiche [$22.00]
You don't see schnitzel all that often on menus these days, so I felt compelled to order this. The cutlet came out as crisp as I was hoping for, while its insides were surprisingly juicy. The tangy sauce gribiche was a great complement, and I didn't mind the peppery arugula and hearty potatoes, either.



North African Old Fashioned [$16.00] | Mauritian Black Vanilla Tea, Wild Turkey 101 Bourbon, Ron Zacapa Rum, Cardamom Demerara, Ras el Hanout Bitters
This next cocktail was constructed tableside, which was sort of a nice touch. Gorgeous nose of fragrant vanilla and dark fruit. On the palate, think boozy, spicy, with more dark fruit leading to a long lasting finish filled with sweet vanilla and warm spice.


Yogurt sorbet with orange blossom honey & bee pollen [$8.00]
Time for dessert. A yogurt sorbet was as sweet and lactic and tasty as expected, with a well-placed accent from the honey.


Pistachio & chocolate geranium baklava [$4.00]
Last up was baklava, an especially herbaceous example with a definite bitter edge to it.


Louisiana Teapot Julep [$14.00 x 3] | Egyptian Mint Tea, Bulleit Rye, Peach Elixir #2, Peychaud Bitters
We closed out the evening with a large format cocktail, a mash-up of a mint julep and peach tea. I definitely got refreshing notes of mint initially, paired with a trace of booziness from the Bulleit, while the sweetness of peach came through on the mid-palate and lasted long.

We had a great time here, and I have to say that this was one of the better cocktail experiences I've had in recent times. The drinks were interesting and unqiue, and I certainly applaud the bar's ability to incorporate tea into everything. The food, also, was quite good, and so I imagine that I'll be putting Rudolph's into my regular rotation of bars.

Marché Moderne (Newport Beach, CA) [3]

July 21, 2018, 8:55 pm

≫ Next: Masseria (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Rudolph's Bar & Tea (Los Angeles, CA)

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Marche Moderne Restaurant
7862 Pacific Coast Hwy, Newport Beach, CA 92657
714.434.7900
www.marchemoderne.net
Sat 07/21/2018, 08:55p-11:35p





If we're talking about French restaurants in Orange County, Marché Moderne is often considered the head of the pack. The work of Chef Florent Marneau and Pastry Chef Amelia Marneau, the place first opened in 2007 inside South Coast Plaza, and quickly established itself as a go-to spot for OC's gastronomically-minded. However, the original outpost closed last January. Following the shutter, the Marneaus did some traveling in order to gain culinary inspiration, and in September, debuted the second iteration of Marché Moderne at Newport Coast's tony Crystal Cove Shopping Center (home to the likes of Bluefin and Mastro's Ocean Club).

On a related note, July 21st was also the day that saw the untimely death of Jonathan Gold, and we'd found out about his passing a few hours before our dinner. Marché landed a spot on Gold's "101 Best Restaurants" list in 2016, and he actually penned a review of the place just this January. It's one of the few spots in OC that was able to garner some love from the critic, so it simply felt fitting to dine here this evening.



Marché Moderne takes over the former home of Tamarind of London, and Sage on the Coast before that. The restaurant spans 4,200 square-feet and features an exhibition kitchen set between the main dining room and the bar/lounge area; total capacity is around 142, about 20 more than its previous incarnation.


The menu's on the lengthy, varied side, with a mix of Marché standbys, old school dishes, and more contemporary preparations. Beverage-wise, we opted to bring our own bottles, and ended up paying $35 a pop for corkage. Click for larger versions.


Bread arrived warm, the baguette showing off a nice rye-like spice, while butter was soft and sweet and salty.


Oysters Du Jour On The Half Shell [$35.00] | Pineapple Szechwan pepper Glacé - Pickled Ananas Or Traditional Mignonette
Counter-clockwise from bottom-right, our oyster selection consisted of sharply saline Mer Bleues, Shigokus (which I didn't get to try), and extra salty-yet-clean Malpeques. As for the paired sauce, we found it extremely potent, with a strong, lingering heat that was actually a bit overwhelming.


"Crispy Suckling Pig & Beans" A Three Day Process - Cured - Confit & Pressed [$20.00] | Braised Flageolet - Haricot Beurre - Parsley - Calamansi Lemon And Garlic Vinaigrette
The pork was as crispy as advertised, and had some just really robust flavors that definitely called for the beans and haricots to moderate the dish. The kalamansi, meanwhile, imparted a sweet-n-sour accent that I didn't mind, either.



Steak Tartare - Angus Filet [$27.00] | A Farm Egg - Pommes Frites - Mustard Cream - All Condiments - Baguette (A La Francaise - You Prepare It - Raw Egg - Condiments)
The tartar was a favorite of ours, a Choose Your Own Adventure presentation that featured well-texture filet accompanied by your choice of what I believe were capers, mustard (which I was especially fond of), balsamic, Tabasco, red onions, olives, ketchup, olive oil, chives, and scallions. The fries are worth noting as well, as they're sort of like what you find at McDonald's, but prepared by people who know what they're doing.


Our first wine was the 2003 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys. The nose here was slight oxidative, and definitely mature, displaying a good amount of butter and toast, along with a touch of minerality. On the palate, I found it nutty for sure, and again buttery, with oak, booze, acidity, and some pome fruit showing up as well.


Black Truffle Risotto [$75.00] | Garlic Chives - Acquarello Rice
Truffles were quite lovely in this dish, but unfortunately, the risotto itself was a bit lacking. I actually found it on the bland side when taken alone, though I will say that the chives supplied a welcomed brightness to the rice.


Foie Gras Torchon [$20.00] | Sauternes Roasted Pineapple
Our first of four foie gras dishes was a special this evening. The cylindrical torchon ate firm and dense, while its flavors were rich and luxurious, with a well-placed saltiness as well as a burst of acidity from the pineapple.


Cold Foie Gras Terrine [$24.00] | Preserve Amarenata Cherries & Szechuan Pepper - Pain D'épice
The terrine, meanwhile, was classic in essence, its potency well-matched by the tartness of cherries while Sichuan peppers served as an intriguing counterpoint. Lovely bread here, too.


Sautéed La Belle Farms Foie Gras [$33.00] | Harry's Strawberries - Honey Roasted Oats & Pistachios - Basil scented strawberry - Textures of balsamic - Smoked Sea Salt
Our sole hot foie preparation was pretty textbook, and actually worked better than I thought it would with the strawberries and nuts, though I will say that I wasn't as keen on the "textures of balsamic" here.


The second bottle of wine to be opened was the 1990 Schloss Schönborn Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Auslese. Bouquet of dried fruit, nuts, and oxidation. Its taste was definitely sweet, honeyed, even a bit caramel-y, but with a nutty, sherry-like character that really came through on the finish. This was a polarizing one.


In House Mousse De Canard Au Foie Gras [$13.00] | 10 Year Old Tawny Port Gelée - Aged Balsamic Pickled Shallots - Toast
The final foie dish was actually the most potent of the foursome, surprisingly. It definitely packed a punch, with an in-your-face earthiness that was evened out by the tartness of those shallots.


Petit Risotto Of Exceptional Crab - Stone Crab & Alaskan King [$24.00] | Leeks - Manila Clams & Crème Fraiche Bouillon Table Side - Sea Grass
Our second risotto was excellent, and another standout for me. I loved the oceany depth of the broth here, and how that meshed with the sweet brine of crab, all while the sea grass provided an offsetting sort of zestiness.


Roasted Bone Marrow [$17.00] | Roti D' Os A Moelle Et Sa Demi-Glace A L' Armagnac
Marrow came out properly jiggly and gelatinous, though sadly, the demi-glace was just too much, and overpowered the comparatively mild taste of the moelle.


Wild Spanish Octopus [$17.00] | Chorizo Emulsion - Celery - Potatoes - Chorizo - Potatoes Lemon - Espelette
The octo was winner. I was a fan of its char and its tenderness, while the chorizo lent a wonderful bit of heat and savoriness to it all. Great counterpoint from the potatoes, too.


My favorite wine turned out to be the 2005 Shafer Merlot from Napa Valley. It has a wonderfully floral bouquet filled with rich, robust fruit. The taste brought more flowers, more berry fruit, alongside sweet spice and a minty element on the back end. Very well put together, and drinking gorgeously now.


"Almost Raw" Hawaiian Big Eye Tuna & Ono Poisson Cru [$15.00] | Coconut Lime Vinaigrette - Yuzu Kosho & Avocado CO2 - Pickled Carrot - Celery - Crispy Chicken Skin - Petite Herbes - Mango & Passion Fruit Gel
Firm, meaty cuts of ono and tuna served as a base for this ceviche of sorts. Flavors were definitely on the tart, acidic side, with a touch of coconut of course, though I found all that celery a bit distracting.


Market Fish [$42.00] | Babé Farms Romanesco Cauliflower - Medjool Dates - Olives - Apricot - Almond - Caper - Mint - Sauce Verte Of Cilantro - Pequillo Pepper And Lemon Mosto Gel
The halibut cheeks were a special this evening, and a favorite of mine as well. They were great texturally, with just the right amount of bite to 'em, and came out well seasoned for sure. Also key was that zippy green sauce, and I was a fan of the romanesco as well.


Crispy Duck Confit [$27.00] | Leek, Coriander, Cilantro and Cumin Pastilla - Harissa jus - Almond Charmoula Emulsion
The confit'd duck delivered all the classically rich, hearty flavors you'd expected, and showed off a pretty crisp skin too. My favorite thing, actually, was the astringency from the leeks up top.


New Zealand Langoustine Barely Sautéed [$49.00] | Truffle Potato Pommes Dauphines - English Pea & Mint Potage - Homemade Bottarga Crème Fraiche Toast
Langoustine, unfortunately, came out cooked more than I would've liked, and really didn't offer up too much in term of taste or texture. The potatoes, though, were spot on, and I much appreciated the brightness of the pea-mint sauce to boot.


We ended with some Bordeaux, the 1986 Château Bel-Air Lagrave. It had a surprisingly subtle nose dominated by earth, funk, and smoke. The palate was mature, thin, with a dry herbaceous character along with cassis, spice, and olive.


Parmesan Caramelized Sweetbread Sorrel - Spinach & Parsley [$29.00] | Ris De Veau Gratiné - Crème D'oseille Acidulé - Parmesan
Sweetbreads were on point taste-wise, but I wanted 'em crispier. Meanwhile, the combo of spinach and parsley really worked for me as a contrast, and I loved that fun, crunchy Parmesan tuile.


Duck Breast [$36.00] | Lightly Smoked & Roasted - Amaretto Jus - Duck Prosciutto - Caramelized Endive - Arugula - Marcona Almond
The duck missed the mark for me, as the meat tended toward dry and overdone. The flavors just seemed off as well, and the other elements on the plate couldn't really save things. My least favorite dish.


Above we see Marché Moderne's dessert menu, which leans classic, as well as the restaurant's pretty formidable cheese list. Click for a larger version.


Tarte Aux Fraises - Strawberry Tart [$16.00] | Harry's Berries Strawberries - Crème d'Amande Strawberry Compote - Crème Fraiche Chantilly - Lemon Confit Gelato
The time-tested marriage of berries and cream worked out beautifully in our first dessert, and I was particularly impressed by how well-textured its crust was.


Butterscotch & Almond Gateau Basque [$12.00] | Coconut Tapioca Pudding - Caramelized Banana Gelato - Jus De Passion Fruit
Our second dessert met the mark as well thanks to the pastry's rich, buttery flavors and flaky consistency, all matched with the delightful fruitiness of banana.


Caramelized Nectarine Summer Tarte Tatin [$16.00] | Crème Fraiche Gelato - Toasted Walnut Praline
I enjoyed this tarte too, with its full-bodied presentation of stone fruit making perfect sense with the ice cream while praline offered up nuttiness and crunch.


Fondant Au Chocolat Amer 64% [$12.00] | Toasted Walnut and Armagnac Gelato - Almond Praline Crème Monté
Next was a pretty traditional take on the petit gâteau, a rich, runny chocolate cake that went especially well with that Armagnac-infused ice cream.


Café Au Lait Macaron [$12.00] | Coffee and Cream Panna Cotta - Vanilla Bean and Mascarpone Chantilly - Chocolat Croustillant
We closed with my favorite of the desserts. The coffee and cream notes here definitely worked for me, and I really appreciated the contrast provided by the cookie shells as well as those crunchy bits of chocolate.

The original Marché Moderne was the site of some of my early forays into fine dining in the OC, so it was good to return after all these years. Certainly, we enjoyed some excellent dishes tonight, though there were unfortunately a few missteps as well. This might be because the restaurant is trying to do too many things at once, and I'd really like to see some rationalization, some abbreviating of the menu. That being said, the place seems to have held up pretty well, so I wouldn't be surprised if I eventually make my way back.

Masseria (Washington, DC)

July 24, 2018, 8:55 pm

≫ Next: Bar Caló (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Marché Moderne (Newport Beach, CA) [3]

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Masseria Restaurant
1340 4th St NE, Washington, DC 20002
202.608.1330
www.masseria-dc.com
Tue 07/24/2018, 08:55p-11:45p





For my most recent trip out to the District, I made a real effort to cross Masseria off my "to-eat" list, since it'd been on there for far too long. Situated on a gritty stretch near Union Market food hall, the restaurant is the work of Chef Nicholas Stefanelli, a longtime fixture on the DC dining scene. It's named after a sort of Puglian country estate called a masseria, and is a tasting menu-only spot with a, yes, coastal Italian leaning.

About the Chef: Stefanelli was born in Maryland's Prince George's County, the son of a Greek mother and Italian (Apulia) father. His grandparents did a lot of cooking, and it's at their house where he first got his start in the kitchen, though he didn't really consider a culinary career at this point (he was keen on baseball). After graduating from DeMatha Catholic High School in 1998, he went to Milan to study fashion and, in the process, fell in love with the food culture there. Upon returning Stateside, Stefanelli went to culinary school at L'Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, finishing in 2001.

Following, he externed at Roberto Donna's seminal Italian eatery Galileo, where he quickly rose to the position of chef de partie. He then transitioned to Laboratorio del Galileo, a tasting menu-focused restaurant-within-a-restaurant located in the back of Galileo. In February 2003, he began working at Maestro, a high-end Italian restaurant situated inside the tony Ritz-Carlton Tysons Corner. There, he became sous to CdC Fabio Trabocchi. Stefanelli spent over four years here, and during this period, also staged at The French Laundry. From August to December 2007, he served as CdC at Trabocchi's NYC spot Fiamma Osteria, then returned to DC at the start of 2008.

At this point, he began preparing for the debut of his first solo effort, entitled Hint, but the place never materialized. Instead, Stefanelli spent the latter part of 2008 helming the kitchen over at Mio, replacing former EC Stefano Frigerio, who'd had a falling out with one of the restaurant's partners. In August 2009, he became opening Executive Chef at Ashok Bajaj's Bibiana Osteria-Enoteca, where he stayed until December 2014. During his tenure there, the restaurant was deemed one of Esquire's "Best New Restaurants," and Stefanelli was even named a "Rising Star Chef of the Year" semifinalist by James Beard. Early 2015 saw him start work on Masseria, and the restaurant ended up debuting in August that year. The place was soon named "New Restaurant of the Year" by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington, while Michelin bestowed a star in October 2016.

Joining Stefanelli in the kitchen is new Executive Chef Ben Pflaumer, who left Osteria Morini in July this year, while FOH duties are the realm of GM/Sommelier David Kurka (Inox, Brasserie Beck, Brabo, Cityzen, Range).


Upon entering, the first thing you see is Masseria's courtyard, which seems like a nice place to hang out with a cocktail and some bites.


Next is the somewhat rustic "pergola," which has been enclosed since the place opened, but still has a retractable roof (I think).


And finally we see the restaurant's main dining room, replete with its dual-sided, marble-topped bar and open kitchen-facing counter (which is where I was seated).


Masseria features four- and five-course prix fixe options at $98 and $115 (add $75 or $95 for wine pairing), while there's also a six-course La Cucina menu at $143 plus $115. However, I opted for the unadvertised eight-course tasting, which was priced at $165. To drink, I went with cocktails this evening, which are the creation of Bar Manager Julien-Pierre Bourgon (Restaurant Eve/TNT Bar/PX Lounge, America Eats Tavern, Trummer's on Main). If that's not your thing, there's also a nice wine list curated by Kurka, as well as a smattering of beer/cider. Click for larger versions.



1: Bread and Canapes
In lieu of your typical bread service, Masseria offers up a much more imaginative presentation of pane. I was particular fond of the squid ink-sesame grissini, which had touch of zesty fennel on the finish. Also delish were the wonderfully cheesy Fontina bombolone and the herby, savory smoked potato focaccia with tomato purée. Accompanying the bread, meanwhile, was the house giardiniera.


2: Yellowfin Tuna Crudo with Risina Bean, Cucumber, Santa Barbara Sea Urchin
Next was a near perfectly rectangular yellowfin carpaccio, topped with rehydrated basil seeds, risina beans, risina purée, diced cucumber, shaved red onion, as well as uni dressed in espelette (a $15 supplement). I loved the nuttiness from the beans here, and how they worked with the bright, zippy flavors of the veggies while the tuna and urchin contributed plenty of sweet, briny goodness. Excellent finish of olive oil, too. A promising start.


Count Camillo [$14.00] | St. George Gin. Contratto Bianco Vermouth. Path Valley Beet Infused Campari.
The first cocktail served as a fitting apéritif for sure. I definitely got the sweetness of the beet on the nose, joined by citrus and herbs. The palate was super smooth, with more earthy-sugary beet alongside the botanicals of gin while the finish was all about the vermouth.


3: Pugliese Burrata, Wellfleet Oyster, Beluga Caviar, Cippolini Onions
This was a favorite of mine: a good-sized dollop of imported burrata topped with a Wellfleet, a quenelle of Beluga, plus pickled and fried cipollinis. What struck me first was the assertively oceany, nutty flavors of the caviar, kicked up a notch by the oyster. The olive oil and cheese served as perfect complements, and I was a huge fan of the savory crunch of those onions, too. Pretty flawless.


4: Pan Roasted Turbot, Braised Fennel, Almonds, Gooseberries
The rombo was another standout, and one of the better preparations of the fish I've tried. I thoroughly enjoyed its meaty, substantial texture, while its savory/saline flavors--enhanced by the application of brown butter--were contrasted by tangy gooseberries and fennel, all while toasted almonds and almond cream moderated the interaction.


I'm The King Of Brooklyn...For All She Knows [$14.00] | Pueblo Viejo Tequila. Parsley, Lime. Green Chartreuse. Olive Oil. Sea Salt.
This next cocktail just might have been the greenest I'd ever seen. I found it innocuous at first, with soft, sweet flavors at the forefront. However, as things progressed, the parsley came through more, as did the lime, while the finish was decidedly on the savory side.



5: Spaghetti Nero, Maryland Jumbo Lump Crab, "Aglio, Olio, Pepperoncini"
The spaghetti was another winner, a picture perfect preparation that married the sweet brine of blue crab with just the right amount of heat. Also spot on was the texture of the noodles, and I was a fan of the dish's undertones of garlic as well. Along with the pasta came a slice of pane di Altamura, a type of traditional semolina-based bread from Puglia.


6: "Foienoli" Foie Gras Mousse Filled Cannoli, Pistachio, Australian Black Truffle
This was a fun one: a cannoli shell stuffed with foie gras mousse, finished with toasted Sicilian pistachio and shaved winter black truffle. The truffle was what hit me first, but its unmistakable musk soon transitioned to the sweet, livery taste of the foie while the pistachios offered up a nutty counterpoint. Excellent crunch from the fried pastry, too.


We Did It All For Don (The Beachcomber) [$14.00] | Smith & Cross Rum. Sherry. Lime. Passion Fruit. Cinnamon. Nutmeg.
A tiki-inspired cocktail hit the mark with its appealing nose of citrus and warming spice, while the taste really showcased the passion fruit, the sherry peeking through just a tad.



7: Chicken Liver Filled Agnolotti, Baby Corn, Cippolini, Parmigiano, Australian Black Truffle
Masseria's agnolotti was one of the better versions I've tried. The chicken liver made for some unquestionably rich, robust, in-your-face flavors, but along with that potency came a lot of finesse. I found this a cozy sort of dish, and the truffles (a $70 supplement) certainly made it even better.


8: Maccheroni Molinari Domus, 'Nduja, Eggplant, Tomato, Ricotta Salata
The third pasta course featured, thick, slick housemade noodles dressed in a sweet-tart tomato-basil sauce. The 'nduja and eggplant, meanwhile, imparted a necessary smokiness and savoriness to things.


In The Middle of a Railroad Track [$14.00] | Dickel Rye. Thyme infused Maple. Angostura Bitters. Lemon Twist.
Here was the booziest cocktail of the evening, but not in a bad way. It had an aromatic nose rife with lemon and thyme. The palate brought spicy alcohol heat, but layered with sweet, candied flavors and a finish filled with rich maple. Interestingly, the thyme became more apparent as the drink warmed.


9: Roasted Lamb Saddle, Zucchina and Squash, Baby Okra
The night's final savory brought roasted lamb saddle, wrapped in chewy belly, supported by zucchini and squash purée, roasted zucchini and squash, squash blossom, shaved okra, and white wine jus. The meat showed off a wonderful depth of flavor that I just found wholly satisfying, and the various incarnations of veggies really gave a much needed lightness and summeriness to the plate.


Desserts are the work of Pastry Chef Jemil Gadea (Bibiana), and first up was an intermezzo of sorts: cantaloupe with anise hyssop, mint, and mulberry-red wine sauce, topped with a cloud of white wine sabayon, with a coconut-vanilla-melon sorbet and a shard of meringue. The creamy sabayon provided the main driving force in the dish, its sweetness evened out by the tangy elements present while the meringue imparted the right amount of texture.


Fumo di Uva [$14.00] | Copper & Kings Aged Brandy. Don Ciccio Black Walnut Liqueur. Black Walnut Infused Glycerin Smoke.
The meal's last cocktail came with some theatrics, which I certainly didn't mind. It smelled great, with lots of nutty, sweet notes and dark fruit. On the palate, I got plenty of the brandy at first, which was then joined by a bevy of herbaceous, astringent, almost medicinal flavors, once again tempered by a smidge of sweetness.


10: Baked Chocolate Mousse, Dulce de Leche, Mascarpone, Tiramisu Gelato
Dessert proper combined an unabashedly rich torta al cioccolato with an even richer dulce de leche, the mascarpone cream serving as a moderating element. I was a big fan of the coffee-infused ice cream too, but the best thing here was the "pop rocks," which provided a fun textural contrast.


Four bites to finish: apricot-lemon verbena pâte de fruit, hazelnut-dark chocolate biscotto, coconut-caramel chocolate truffle, and a sticky coffee meringue.

I had high expectations coming into Masseria, and the restaurant actually managed to exceed them. The cooking shows off a deft marriage of refinement and rusticity, blending the familiar and the inventive in a stellar fashion that made for one of the best Italian meals I've had in a while. I'm really having trouble finding fault with the meal, so hats off to Stefanelli and his crew. As for the Chef's next steps, he's in the midst of opening Officina, a tri-level affair at the Wharf that brings together a market, restaurant, and bar; it should be opening up in the coming month or so. After that, he'll be working on a massive Greek restaurant (remember, he's half Greek) to be situated inside the new Fannie Mae headquarters building. This one should be done in late summer 2019, so more to look forward to.

Bar Caló (Los Angeles, CA)

July 25, 2018, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: The Dabney (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Masseria (Washington, DC)

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Bar Calo
1498 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026
213.278.0901
www.barcalola.com
Mon 07/23/2018, 07:00p-09:20p





Following a venue walkthrough in Downtown, I was looking to kill some time before heading home and ended up at Echo Park's Bar Caló (the name means "slang" in Spanish), which opened recently on July 6th. It's a mezcal-slash-cocktail bar from the husband-and-wife team of Chef Jaime Turrey and Brooke Fruchtman, who also happen to be the owners of the nearby restaurant Ostrich Farm. The idea here is to have a Mexican-inspired beverage and food program, but one with a multicultural slant courtesy of Caló's LA environs.


Bar Caló takes over the former home of Los Angeles Pizza Company (which opened in 2007). It's a small, cozy space, though there is outdoor patio seating as well.


As far as the menu goes, you get an appealing array of cocktails from Beverage Director Jeremy Simpson (Ostrich Farm, Cafe Birdie/Good Housekeeping, Bestia), along with a sizable mezcal list, some wine (mostly Mexican), and a smattering of beer. To eat, you'll find a varied selection of shareable plates from Exec Sous Chef Carrie Funk, another Ostrich Farm alum. Click for larger versions.


Tostadas Sirenas [$12.00] | Maggi-marinated ocean trout, chipotle kewpie mayo, nori, chicharrón, bonito
Trout arrived with a surprisingly strong smokiness, as well as plenty of deep umami flavors. It was actually pretty intense, so the mayo and lime were key in providing a modicum of balance. Nice crunch from the tortillas, too.


La Paloma [$14.00] | Tequila, mezcal, bell pepper, fresh lime juice, peychaud's bitters, squirt
A take on the classic Paloma cocktail brought loads of bright, zesty citrus to the forefront, while the finish was decidedly bitter thanks to the Peychaud's. I got very little booziness here I'll say.


Oaxacan Hot Chicken [$13.00] | Crispy drumettes, mole negro, tamarind crema
The hot chicken was more smoky than spicy, though that wasn't necessarily a bad thing given that you really got to taste the earthy, sweet, nutty flavors of the mole. Texturally, the drumettes were crispy for sure, and the crema on the side did work to temper the strong flavors at play.


Brown Buffalo [$13.00] | Oaxacan black corn whiskey, bourbon, chipotle syrup, cumin infused dry curaçao, angostura bitters
The next cocktail was definitely on the more spirit-forward side. I got a super aromatic nose brimming with brown butter and warming spice. The palate was smoky and boozy to be sure, but with tart, chocolate-y elements and a finish that leaned bitter and herbaceous.


Tom Kha Ceviche [$13.00] | Fish of the day, shrimp, avocado, cashews, coconut-ginger leche de tigre
Calo's Thai-esque ceviche ended up being my favorite dish this evening. I loved the balance of coconut, ginger, and zesty onion here, while the avocado and cashews worked to moderate everything. Fantastic array of textures, too.


Dreamtigers [$14.00] | Mezcal, plantain infused tequila, orgeat, fresh lemon juice, fresh pineapple juice, mole bitters
In terms of quaffability, the cocktail above wins thanks to its tart, juicy presentation of pineapple, evened out just enough by the mole bitters. Fun and easy.


Quesadilla de Jamaica [$8.00] | Hibiscus flowers, queso fresco, mezcal salsa
The quesadilla came out looking pretty impressive, while its flavors did a good job blending smoky and cheesy, the hibiscus adding a layer of sourness to it all.


El Cucuy [$12.00] | Punt e Mes, dry curaçao, honey, fresh lime juice, ginger beer, mezcal mist
Now this just might've been my favorite cocktail of the bunch. What I really appreciated was how apparent the bittersweetness of the vermouth was, and how that played with the honey. Some nice dark fruit, almost raisin-y notes on the finish here as well.


Salt Roasted Spot Prawns [$19.00] | Head-on spot prawns, seasoned rock salt, coctel sauce
I think the only other place where I've encountered salt-baked spot prawns was over at Providence. The version tonight wasn't as finessed, but still worked it out. The shrimp were cooked just right, and quite briny, with the salt seemingly amplifying their inherent salinity. Fortunately, the paired cocktail sauce worked great as a tart, spicy counterpoint.


Chavala [$13.00] | Tequila añejo, ancho reyes poblano liqueur, sweet vermouth, hellfire bitters, salt
The evening's last cocktail seemed appropriate to end with. The drink smelled of sweet heat and bitterness, while the taste was even more fiery, its spice balanced out by the dark fruit and butterscotch characteristics present.


Churritos [$7.00] | Con salsas dulces
Mini churros came out piping hot, with a proper bite to 'em and plenty of that classic cinnamon-y spice. I actually didn't even need the sauces.

Despite having opened just weeks prior, the place was pretty packed, even on a Monday night. I can sort of see why though. It's a charming spot, and both the drinks and the food hit the mark--think fun, approachable, but also interesting. I imagine I'll be back.

The Dabney (Washington, DC)

July 25, 2018, 8:40 pm

≫ Next: Kyirisan (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Bar Caló (Los Angeles, CA)

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The Dabney Restaurant
122 Blagden Alley NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.450.1015
www.thedabney.com
Wed 07/25/2018, 08:40p-12:10a





The Dabney was another place on my DC "to-eat" list that I was eager to check off, so I made sure to make my way there on this latest visit to the Capital. Ever since it was opened in fall 2015 by Chef/Owner Jeremiah Langhorne and Beverage Director/Owner Alex Zink, the restaurant has been one of the hottest tickets in town, known for its wood-fired modern Mid-Atlantic cuisine, and I was eager to give it a go.

About the Chef: Langhorne was born in Bethesda, Maryland, the second eldest of three sons. He grew up in Sterling, Virginia and spent his childhood in the area, but when his parents divorced, he and his brothers went to live with their mother in the Shenandoah Valley. After mom and dad reconciled, the family moved to Charlottesville, where Langhorne attended Albemarle High School. He got his first restaurant gig at McDonald's, then delivered pizzas. Following, he began working at OXO under mentor John Haywood, an experience that basically served as his culinary school, and eventually rose to the position of executive sous chef. Shortly before OXO closed, he transitioned over to The Ivy Inn, where he was CdC to Chef Angelo Vangelopoulos, another mentor of his. Around this time, Langhorne began getting interested in Sean Brock's foray into Lowcountry cooking at McCrady's in Charleston, and would eventually stage at the restaurant.

He was finally hired in 2008, and, after a year at McCrady's, went to apprentice at René Redzepi's game-changing Noma in Copenhagen for two months, where he really began to learn the ins and outs of foraging. Upon returning, he was promoted to sous, and then Chef de Cuisine in 2011. It was also at McCrady's where Langhorne would meet Alex Zink, a Connecticut native and Syracuse and French Culinary Institute grad who would become his business partner. The two left the restaurant in 2013 and moved back to the DC area to start work on their first solo project, which ended up opening on Halloween 2015. The Dabney was a quick success, and earned a "Restaurants of the Year" nod from Food & Wine in 2016. A Michelin star came later that year, while Langhorne got a "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" win from James Beard just this past May.



Housed in a grouping of 19th century row houses, The Dabney was penned by Edit Lab at Streetsense. The space has got a slightly farmhouse-y aesthetic, with lots of exposed brick, while total capacity is around five dozen. The focal point of the room, though, is of course the open kitchen and its 10-foot wide, oak- and hickory-fueled wood-burning hearth.


The view from the end of The Dabney's 13-seater bar.


The Dabney's menu is comprised mostly of small plates that showcase the Chef's contemporary take on Mid-Atlantic cuisine, and apparently, all produce is sourced from the region. The food is joined by cocktails from Bar Manager Sarah Ruiz as well as a small selection of wines, beers, and ciders (including ciders on draught, which you don't see all that often). Click for larger versions.


We commenced with complimentary slices of crusty housemade ciabatta. It was a great start, the bread's smoky, charred character mixing beautifully with the sweetness of that luscious sorghum molasses butter.


Scallop Crudo [$18.00] | onion, ginger, shiso, & red pepper vinaigrette
The crudo was excellent, with the well-textured scallops taking on a plethora of umami flavors from the vinaigrette. At the same time, the shiso and red onion provided an offsetting brightness, and the slight heat on the finish was a welcomed surprise.


Salted Watermelon [$14.00] | tapatio blanco tequila, fino sherry, watermelon, anise hyssop, honey, lemon
Drink-wise, things kicked off with this eminently quaffable cocktail. It featured lots of juicy watermelon at first, boosted by the honey, while the back end really showed off the dry nuttiness of that sherry.


Charred Broccoli & Crab [$18.00] | garlic-chive cream, lemon balm, & yogurt
This was another winner. I loved the char and crunch from the broccoli, and how it played with the sweet, tender chunks of crab present. Meanwhile, the yogurt-cream combination sort of tied everything together, while the lemon gave the dish a tart, prickly finish. Also key: the nuttiness from the sesame seeds sprinkled on top.


Charred Radicchio [$14.00] | summer raspberry, blow horn cheese, spicy peanuts, & lemon thyme
Radicchio arrived unapologetically bitter, with lots of smoke and astringency evened out by the berries, peanuts, and much-appreciated dollop of cheese on the side.


Sorghum & Sage [$16.00] | barr hill barrel-aged "tom cat" gin, sorghum, rainwater madeira, orange-spicebush bitters, sage
Here we have my favorite cocktail of the evening, a multifaceted number with a super zippy, citrusy nose backed by dark fruit. The taste brought spicy, vegetal notes alongside nutty Madeira, warm spice, berries, and a pinch of alcoholic heat.


Farm Egg [$16.00] | crispy pig ears, sweet corn, basil, chili crunch, & roasted pepper
I have a hard time resisting pig ear, and here, the crunchy, salty shards served as a counterweight to the sweet corn, while the egg added an enveloping richness to the whole situation. I quite liked the chili pepper too, since it gave the dish a smidgen of heat that really lifted things.


Fried Chesapeake Sugar Toads [$16.00] | melon salad, buttermilk dressing, & hot honey
Pufferfish came out with a proper crunch to it, as well as a bevy of briny flavors that actually meshed really well with the sweet, nutty elements in the course. I wasn't sure about the melon salad at first, but it ended up making sense as a bright, creamy, juicy contrast to the fish.


Three Mile Line [$15.00] | real mccoy 5-yr rum, sibona, don ciccio & figli cinque, orange-spicebush bitters
This next cocktail was certainly to my liking. Appealing bouquet filled with citrus, berry fruit, and bittersweet notes from the Cinque. Taste-wise, I got more robust fruit along with a mix of astringency and sweet spice, the finish showcasing the drink's herbal, medicinal nature.


Mahi Mahi [$22.00] | virginia peanut romesco, charred fennel, brioche, & basil
The mahi-mahi was eating very well tonight, the fish making perfect sense with that wonderfully nutty romesco and the smokey, anise-y taste of fennel.


Sea Island Red Peas [$8.00] | ham hock & chives
Our last savory was this porky, homey bowl of red peas with a lovely smoke to it.


Rooftop Swizzle [$13.00] | capertif, rouge vermouth, honey, lime, herbs from our garden
My fourth and final cocktail was on the lighter side, since I was getting quite full by this point. It was an easy-drinker for sure, with a smooth, sweet-n-sour, honeyed palate tempered by a tinge of herbs and botanicals.


Above we see the dessert menu, courtesy of Pastry Chef Annie Coleman, a South Carolina native and École Grégoire-Ferrandi grad. Click for larger versions.


Woodruff Custard [$13.00] | lemon herbs & blueberry sorbet
Woodruff worked its way into a sweet, but also slightly savory custard, one complemented by blueberry in three forms: sorbet, the topping for the custard, and the actual berries. I was definitely into all those crunchy bits for texture, too.


Mignardise duties were handled by these sweet 'n' salty lemon-thyme cookies, which weren't shy about the thyme at all.

The Dabney was just what I had hoped for, and then some. The kitchen did a wonderful job showing off the region's cuisine in a fun, delicious manner, incorporating both classic cooking methodologies and just the right amount of modernity. The dishes taste and look contemporary, but you really do get a sense of the tradition and history behind them. The Dabney is pushing Mid-Atlantic fare forward, which is something I can get behind.

Given the success of the restaurant, it's not surprising that the team decided to expand. However, said expansion happened right beneath the restaurant thanks to the debut of The Dabney Cellar in December. It's a cozier, more intimate space in the basement with an abbreviated menu and a focus on wine. I just might have to check it out sometime.